New 50g CADLights build!

[LinkinReef]

So a friend and I decided to each one buy one of these tank and we'll both keep this as our build thread!

We will be building our own stands big enough to hold a 40g breeder for a sump.

For equipment we are both going to e using almost the same setup which will be:

40g sump
Vertex Omega Skimmer
Tunze Osmolator
1 MP40 ES
1 Radion LED

As far as the return pump goes, I've used eheim pumps like the 1262 before and they're great but I want to try the tunze return pumps since I've read that they are very quiet. What tunze return pump would you guys recommend and from where to buy it?

[DHyslop]

Wasn't it you who swore up and down that he was never going to buy another tank from them? :)

[LinkinReef]

Wasn't it you who swore up and down that he was never going to buy another tank from them? :)

Yeah but after finally getting the 100g where I wanted, it looks amazing. My friend wanted one of these so after helping him out with it and seeing how a smaller set up would look nice in my bedroom...I just had to get a second one.:lmao:

[spicytuna]

I've used tunze silence for years, best return pump Ive ever used. I've had both the 1072.040 and 1073.020. 792 and 500 gph. My new return is a DC controllable 1073.050. Basically the same specs as a 1073.040 but controllable. This is for a 65g rimless 3ft peninsula. Overflow is slow and quiet via a tunze outlet 1076/2 so flow is going to be dialed back to about 300-400gph. I don't think there for everyone, but are great for smaller to medium sized aquariums. I'm using the silence pro on a 245g, that pump is rated for 3000gph but is made very much like a red dragon pump.

[LinkinReef]

I was just reading about the Tunze 1073.05 and it seems that many people like that one. How silent is it for you? Would you say it's enough for the return for a 50g and still have enough power to run a couple of reactors in a manifold? I ready that you can switch the driver to a 24v and get a lot more flow from the pump, have you tried that?

[spicytuna]

I was just reading about the Tunze 1073.05 and it seems that many people like that one. How silent is it for you? Would you say it's enough for the return for a 50g and still have enough power to run a couple of reactors in a manifold? I ready that you can switch the driver to a 24v and get a lot more flow from the pump, have you tried that?

24v with about 4-5ft of head pressure would still only yeild about 500gph at the return outlet. It's not a very strong pump. It's a very quiet efficient pump. If your looking for a return to "T" off and run reactors, I don't think the silence is the right pump for you. I got the pump to dial back my overflow to make it very quiet, but I'm not one to run a strong overflow/return to begin with.

You would probably be happier with a RLSS DC5000/10000 pump.

[Flame_Angel]

MP40 might be a little overkill for that tank. I'd personally just save some money and either go with one MP10, or if you want to sped about the same amount get two and let them work with each other.

[cakemanPA]

I am running 2 MP10s on my 50 gal Cadlights cube. I can't run them at full power. An MP40 is overkill imo.

I mounted my MP10s on the back wall on each side of the overflow.

[LinkinReef]

24v with about 4-5ft of head pressure would still only yeild about 500gph at the return outlet. It's not a very strong pump. It's a very quiet efficient pump. If your looking for a return to "T" off and run reactors, I don't think the silence is the right pump for you. I got the pump to dial back my overflow to make it very quiet, but I'm not one to run a strong overflow/return to begin with.

You would probably be happier with a RLSS DC5000/10000 pump.

I think I'll just get the tunze and maybe buy a second one for the reactors.

[LinkinReef]

I already have the MP40 from another tank so ill just be reusing it

[cugly]

This gonna be cool lets see some pics

[cakemanPA]

I sold my MP40 and got the 10's. Should be a cool build.

[Bolo Tran]

Updates?

[LinkinReef]

We just get he tanks delivered this past Friday! I'll get some pics in a bit. My friend has been working on our stands. Will also get pics of that.

The tanks came out great!!! Rey drilled one drain and two returns. One return will be used as an emergency drain.

The quality of these tanks is just amazing.

[LinkinReef]

We just get he tanks delivered this past Friday! I'll get some pics in a bit. My friend has been working on our stands. Will also get pics of that.

The tanks came out great!!! Rey drilled one drain and two returns. One return will be used as an emergency drain.

The quality of these tanks is just amazing.

They drilled*** (stupid autocorrect)

[LinkinReef]

Finally started with this setup again. I Got around working with the rockwork based on ideas I got from RC. It looks a little bit crowded in the tank, but I'll work on it a little bit more. I ordered an Omega 130 for this tank so thats going to be sweet. I'll be using a 20g high as a sump instead to keep the tank and stand as flush looking as possible.

One question, I'll be using a Sicce Syncra Silent pump but I'm not sure which one would work best for this tank, either the 2.0(568 ghp) or 3.0 model(714 gph) I will want to run a gfo reactor and or possibly a biopellet reactor splitting it from the return as well. Which one would you guys recommend for this tank?

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc492/linkinreef/IMG_0312_zps7aa2a0ab.jpg (http://s1214.photobucket.com/user/linkinreef/media/IMG_0312_zps7aa2a0ab.jpg.html)

[Indiana Reefin]

Love the aquascape! I am not big on a lot of flow for a return either. What GPH is you skimmer rated for? I try to get the flow close the maximum input for my skimmer. My skimmer has a max input of 300 gph so I set my return to 300 gph. If you run your return at a faster rate, not all your water will be skimmed efficiently.

[E.Y.]

Looking good so far!

[LinkinReef]

Love the aquascape! I am not big on a lot of flow for a return either. What GPH is you skimmer rated for? I try to get the flow close the maximum input for my skimmer. My skimmer has a max input of 300 gph so I set my return to 300 gph. If you run your return at a faster rate, not all your water will be skimmed efficiently.

Thanks! I'm getting a vertex omega 130 that says it has a 158 gph, I also want to feed a reactor for gfo/gac with the return pump as well so maybe double the skimmer's output to make up for the rector and the return and get the sicce syncra silent pump 1.5 with a 357 gph or the 2.0 with 568 gph?


Looking good so far!

Thanks!

[Hentz]

How's this running? I'd love to see it up!

[Indiana Reefin]

Thanks! I'm getting a vertex omega 130 that says it has a 158 gph, I also want to feed a reactor for gfo/gac with the return pump as well so maybe double the skimmer's output to make up for the rector and the return and get the sicce syncra silent pump 1.5 with a 357 gph or the 2.0 with 568 gph?




Thanks!

Syncra 1.5

[LinkinReef]

Well after a bump in the road with this tank I have received a new one from cad lights. It came drilled for a herbie method with metric size plumbing.

[LinkinReef]

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[Mercutio]

By any chance do you have a name, email, or phone number for anyone that works there at CAD Lights? I paid $400 for a new stand in December and I've been told it shipped several times, but I can't get anyone to respond or reply in three weeks, it's been 7 weeks since I was told it was heading to shipping. Any help at all would be much appreciated, sorry to threadjack.

[LinkinReef]

Based on the last pics I uploaded, it's drilled to be meant to be a herbie method correct? But then I see the plumbing they sent and the drain pipe looks like a durso. If looked from the bottom up, the first one is the drain, second one is the emergency and top one is the return.

Can I just cut the drain halfway and remove the top so it becomes a herbie drain?

Also, is a foam necessary under the tank being a rimless tank? I'm using a homemade stand. The floor seems a little bit uneven from one side and I will be putting some shims under the stand to level it but not sure if the foam is needed in between the tank and stand.

[dkeller_nc]

CADLights told me that foam under the tank wasn't necessary on their 50g, but in my case, I used their stand. That said, the stand I received last spring with my 50g wasn't exactly high-end, and I would bet that most anyone's home build would be far sturdier. So long as there are no pressure points under the tank, I wouldn't think you'd need to use styrofoam under a tank of these dimensions.

If you want to be cautious but still use something that's unobtrusive, you could use a rubber router pad like this one from Woodcraft:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003174/2077/Bench-Mate-Non-Slip-Pad.aspx

[LinkinReef]

The dimensions on the stand I'm using are 48 x 24 x 35. So the tank is not actually sitting flushed with the stand. The stand has 4 - 2x4 on top, 2 on the outside seems to be slightly lower than the ones inside and the tank doesn't sit on them. It only sits on the inside ones. That's what kind of concerns me a little bit and why I was thinking of the foam.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/22/ty3uju5u.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/22/3a2y6aja.jpg

[dkeller_nc]

Were it my tank, I wouldn't place it on a stand that has solid-wood 2x4's on the top as the main support. I would level the 2x4's as best I could, and retro-fit the top with a solid piece of 3/4" plywood. Having pressure points on the bottom of a rimless tank is asking for it, in my opinion.

[LinkinReef]

I was actually going to place a 3/4" plywood on top of the stand for the tank to sit on and maybe the foam on top of the plywood.

Would it be ok to level the plywood sitting on the 2x4 with some shims in between the 2x4's and the plywood?

[dkeller_nc]

I would suggest that you level the stand itself instead (with shims). That'll have the bonus of also leveling your sump.

[LinkinReef]

I would suggest that you level the stand itself instead (with shims). That'll have the bonus of also leveling your sump.



Oh ok, I will be adding shims to level the stand itself because of the uneven floor. But how about at the top of the stand? Once I place the plywood, it will be sitting on the 2x4's but based to the level in the last pictures, the plywood won't sit on the outside 2x4's since there is a very small gap. Should I shim that as well?

The tank isn't going to be hanging either by the way.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/23/dedehe2e.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/23/hudyvary.jpg

[dkeller_nc]

Well, I wouldn't worry so much about the plywood not setting completely flush on the outside 2x4s, but if you want to be cautious, there's no reason not to fill the gaps with some shims.

[LinkinReef]

Well, I wouldn't worry so much about the plywood not setting completely flush on the outside 2x4s, but if you want to be cautious, there's no reason not to fill the gaps with some shims.


Sweet. I'll definitely fill in the gaps with something just to be on the safe side.

[LinkinReef]

Made a quick mockup of the plumbing. Any suggestions if it's any good or what can be made better? The ball valves in the picture will be replaced with gate valves and the non-professional paint drawings will be gate valves as well. The yellow boxes in the picture will be unions for a quick disconnect if needed.

1" Drain will be dialed with a gate valve since it's a herbie method drilled tank. Water goes into the next chamber which will be the return chamber. From there it will be tee'd off to the right to the fuge which will also be dialed with a gate valve. From the tee to the right will be to feed one or two reactors. From the tee to the top will be the 1/2" return line that will also be controlled with a gate valve "if needed" or I might replace this with a union check valve instead.


http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc492/linkinreef/photo_zpse2d63256.jpg (http://s1214.photobucket.com/user/linkinreef/media/photo_zpse2d63256.jpg.html)

[LinkinReef]

bump. Any suggestions?

[dkeller_nc]

Here's a couple:

You might want to put the valve (that's a ball valve in the pic, btw, not a gate valve) on your drain on the vertical portion coming from the tank. That allows you to valve down the drain a bit so that there's a short column of water above the valve. Doing that greatly cuts down on noise and entrained air.

Make sure that you have enough room in your constant-level skimmer chamber to accommodate a heater - you never want to put a heater in a chamber that can drain.

You might consider tee-ing your drain line and running one leg to the refugium. Since a refugium doesn't need much flow, there's no particular reason to add friction to your pump outlet with the necessary plumbing to supply the 'fuge.

Finally, I'd consider making room for the installation of at least one TLF phosban reactor. They're very handy for GFO, GAC or bio-pellets.

[LinkinReef]

The gate valve on vertical position definitely sounds better.

I will be using a apex to control the heater. Should I place the heater in the skimmer chamber and the temp probe in the fuge chamber or the other way around?

Do I need any valve going to the fuge if I tee it off from the drain in case it's too much flow or would that hurt it?

I was thinking of using one of the brs reactors in the skimmer chamber that's in the picture on the bottom left corner. Would that chamber be ok or would it be better placed in a different chamber?

Thanks for the help!

[matt.fhm]

I suggest a valve on the drain to the fuge- another valve never hurts. As far as the BRS reactor in the skimmer chamber I dont think that will harm a thing. Better to be there then before your return so your skimmer may pickup some of the GFO debris after a fresh tank (which is good IMO).

[LinkinReef]

I put a tee off the drain to feed the fuge but for some reason even though the valve to the fuge is completely open, there's no water coming out of it :confused: Everything is completely leveled, the pvc plumbing isn't glued yet because I want to make sure this works, but even that's leveled.



I made a tee off the return line to feed a couple of reactors for gfo and carbon. I will be using a sicce pump with 568gph will that be enough for the tank and to feed the brs reactors?


http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/29/hyze7u8u.jpg

[cakemanPA]

If you are having issues with water not going to the refugium side of the T, you will need a valve on the other side to restrict flow. The water is just taking the path of least resistance. I will be needing lots of valves in my new set up to do the same.

I put a tee off the drain to feed the fuge but for some reason even though the valve to the fuge is completely open, there's no water coming out of it :confused: Everything is completely leveled, the pvc plumbing isn't glued yet because I want to make sure this works, but even that's leveled.



I made a tee off the return line to feed a couple of reactors for gfo and carbon. I will be using a sicce pump with 568gph will that be enough for the tank and to feed the brs reactors?


http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/29/hyze7u8u.jpg

[LinkinReef]

If you are having issues with water not going to the refugium side of the T, you will need a valve on the other side to restrict flow. The water is just taking the path of least resistance. I will be needing lots of valves in my new set up to do the same.

I thought about that but wasn't sure if it would be too much :lol:

So, one ball valve on each end and dial it in little by little.

[cakemanPA]

That is what I had to do

[dkeller_nc]

Assuming you're planning on putting a few propeller pumps in the main display for flow/circulation, you really don't need all that much going through the return pump. So a Sicce 2.0 should be enough. Keep in mind, however, that you're only going to get about 250 - 300 gph out of the pump because of the back pressure on it.

You might consider the possibility of putting a separate Sicce Synchra 0.5 to drive your media reactors. It's a heck of a lot more convenient to have a separate pump for your reactors, since you don't need to turn off or valve off the main pump to service the reactors.

If you don't already have the BRS reactors, I would recommend the two little fishies phosban reactors instead. The take up less room in your sump, have a lot more convenient setup for holding the media, and are a heck of a lot easier to open up to clean/replace the contents.

[LinkinReef]

Assuming you're planning on putting a few propeller pumps in the main display for flow/circulation, you really don't need all that much going through the return pump. So a Sicce 2.0 should be enough. Keep in mind, however, that you're only going to get about 250 - 300 gph out of the pump because of the back pressure on it.

You might consider the possibility of putting a separate Sicce Synchra 0.5 to drive your media reactors. It's a heck of a lot more convenient to have a separate pump for your reactors, since you don't need to turn off or valve off the main pump to service the reactors.

If you don't already have the BRS reactors, I would recommend the two little fishies phosban reactors instead. The take up less room in your sump, have a lot more convenient setup for holding the media, and are a heck of a lot easier to open up to clean/replace the contents.

I'll be using either 2 mp10, mp40 or 1 wp25 as far as display circulation goes so I guess the return pump being part of the DT circulation isn't a big concern.

As far as the reactors go, I did another test and it does seem that I might like the separate pump for the reactors instead. I already have 2 of the BRS reactors that I will be using. I currently use one gac and gfo in one reactor but I'll separate them on this new tank to keep the flow steady for each. Can I run both of them from the sicce 0.5 or might a sicce 1.0.

[LinkinReef]

I think I have the plumbing down to the final design

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[LinkinReef]

Quick update on this. Have water in it mixing with salt and all the plumbing seems to be running great. Completely silent!

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[dkeller_nc]

Umm - you might have an issue here. You definitely must seal the inside of your stand with either paint or a clear finish. Otherwise, the wood will absorb a lot of moisture and swell. The fasteners will also heavily corrode if the stand remains unpainted and wasn't put together SS screws.

Apologies if this is a "duh" comment and all you're doing is a leak/plumbing test and then are going to empty the tanks, but I thought I'd mention it.

[LinkinReef]

Umm - you might have an issue here. You definitely must seal the inside of your stand with either paint or a clear finish. Otherwise, the wood will absorb a lot of moisture and swell. The fasteners will also heavily corrode if the stand remains unpainted and wasn't put together SS screws.

Apologies if this is a "duh" comment and all you're doing is a leak/plumbing test and then are going to empty the tanks, but I thought I'd mention it.

Thanks! Definitely not a "duh" comment :lol2:

The bottom panel where the sump sits and the frame were sealed with a clear finish. The outside panels that will cover the stand are currently being painted going on the second coat and then will be sealed as well. The back panel is removable and will also be painted/sealed as well. :D

[LinkinReef]

Well decided I might regret not painting the inside as well so might as well just paint it now. Will do a second coat later tonight or tomorrow and stain it again the day after

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[dkeller_nc]

I'm thinking that you'll be happy that you painted it down the road; clear-finished wood surfaces inside cabinets with sumps tend to look pretty grungy after a while. And trying to do it after the tank's set-up can lead to tank wipe-outs from paint VOCs.

One other thought on the inside of the stand - if it's possible to do so without going nuts, you might want to block up and seal the holes next to the legs on the inside. Inevitably, water will get spilled during routine tank maintenance, and if it can drain down underneath, it can ruin floors and/or promote mold growth since it's enclosed and isn't easy to remove.

An alternative is to cut some 1/2" high, 3" long vents in a couple of places along the bottom of the sides/back of the stand. That allows ventilation so that if water does get spilled, it drys fairly quickly.

[Reefvet]

By any chance do you have a name, email, or phone number for anyone that works there at CAD Lights? I paid $400 for a new stand in December and I've been told it shipped several times, but I can't get anyone to respond or reply in three weeks, it's been 7 weeks since I was told it was heading to shipping. Any help at all would be much appreciated, sorry to threadjack.

Call your CC company and explain the situation. They'll have a lot more influence on the attention given to your order.

[LinkinReef]

I'm thinking that you'll be happy that you painted it down the road; clear-finished wood surfaces inside cabinets with sumps tend to look pretty grungy after a while. And trying to do it after the tank's set-up can lead to tank wipe-outs from paint VOCs.

One other thought on the inside of the stand - if it's possible to do so without going nuts, you might want to block up and seal the holes next to the legs on the inside. Inevitably, water will get spilled during routine tank maintenance, and if it can drain down underneath, it can ruin floors and/or promote mold growth since it's enclosed and isn't easy to remove.

An alternative is to cut some 1/2" high, 3" long vents in a couple of places along the bottom of the sides/back of the stand. That allows ventilation so that if water does get spilled, it drys fairly quickly.

I completely agree already. I love the way it looks painted instead!

I have a clear rubber mat sitting under the stand and coming out 12" out from the stand in case of the spills. I still will try to seal those holes though just in case.

I might do the vents idea. I rather be safe than sorry down the road.

[LinkinReef]

By any chance do you have a name, email, or phone number for anyone that works there at CAD Lights? I paid $400 for a new stand in December and I've been told it shipped several times, but I can't get anyone to respond or reply in three weeks, it's been 7 weeks since I was told it was heading to shipping. Any help at all would be much appreciated, sorry to threadjack.

Did you ever hear from them with the info I sent you? They really are horrible with customer service most of the time...

[dkeller_nc]

I might do the vents idea. I rather be safe than sorry down the road.

In my opinion, this is the best option. I can relate one more thought on the holes from my own (bad) experience - if there's a way for a critical small part to get into the "box" underneath the sump, then it's 100% guaranteed that it will happen. ;)

[LinkinReef]

In my opinion, this is the best option. I can relate one more thought on the holes from my own (bad) experience - if there's a way for a critical small part to get into the "box" underneath the sump, then it's 100% guaranteed that it will happen. ;)

Oh geez...done. Doing the vents later today instead. I'm going to do them from the back where I can work on it in case something happens and it won't interfere with the fron view