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Diesel3443
07/10/2016, 09:18 PM
If it's not going to hurt, then I'll just move straight to treatment


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Skeet59
08/18/2016, 08:39 PM
I'll make it short-ish. Haddoni was shipped to me from LA and the water in the bag looked good, not cloudy, little bit of particulate, tiny bit of noticeable zooanthelea. Nem placed in 10 gallon qt for observation. Looked really good and full within 4 hours and after 96 hours w/o treatment was placed in DT. Thank you for all your invested time with anemones and sharing it. I've learned a ton!

TheNewbie
08/25/2016, 05:10 AM
Where can i get cipro?

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OrionN
08/25/2016, 06:06 AM
Can order online or at Pet store that may carry them. Recently FDA put our warning that Ciprofloxacin can cause inflammation of tendons and rupture of tendons (actually a know side effect of this medication for ever but FDA bring more attention to it) so Doctors and Dentists tend not to prescribe them as easy anymore.

TheNewbie
08/25/2016, 07:24 AM
My anemomes have been acting weird for some time now and my toxic green is losing its neon color green and is shrinking and expanding at times and has a open mouth and closes sometimes and my bta has shrunk is there anything i can do?http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=357063&d=1472079539http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=357064&d=1472079545http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160824/030c9405032ce49cf77eb4dd11f80a4f.jpg<br />
<br />
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OrionN
08/25/2016, 03:58 PM
Looks like you have problem with the tank condition. Those anemones don't seem to be infected. Need to get your tank up to par and the anemones will improve. I don't think antibiotic will help

joshky
09/03/2016, 08:17 PM
Anyone else have a sick mag spew up what looks like partially digested food? Do wholesalers etc. feed these anemones? I got it from the LFS the day it came in and I really hope they didn't feed it "just because", makes me wonder. I keep seeing white chunky/stringy stuff being expelled from my new mag in treatment and I'm hoping it's just food. This has been going on since maybe Tuesday, mag has been in HT since last Sunday.

OrionN
09/04/2016, 06:13 AM
Undigested food regurgitated with in 24 hrs in healthy Anemones. I think your anemone is in serious trouble, it not food but other internal organelles. Doe he deflates? Pictures?

joshky
09/04/2016, 09:47 AM
Undigested food regurgitated with in 24 hrs in healthy Anemones. I think your anemone is in serious trouble, it not food but other internal organelles. Doe he deflates? Pictures?

I switched to cipro Thursday night and it hasn't deflated since, your answer is what I was afraid of. It's been responding to cipro well so hopefully it's salvageable. If/when it spews more I'll be sure to take a photo before removing whatever it is, it does have the chunky rat poop stuff with it as well.

TheNewbie
09/04/2016, 09:48 AM
I switched to cipro Thursday night and it hasn't deflated since, your answer is what I was afraid of. It's been responding to cipro well so hopefully it's salvageable. If/when it spews more I'll be sure to take a photo before removing whatever it is, it does have the chunky rat poop stuff with it as well.
Where did you get the cipro from?1

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OrionN
09/04/2016, 09:55 AM
You can MO them online.

TheNewbie
09/04/2016, 09:58 AM
You can MO them online.
Know of any sites?

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joshky
09/04/2016, 09:58 AM
Where did you get the cipro from?1

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Ebay, sold as fish flox.

OrionN
09/04/2016, 10:42 AM
:rolleyes:All you have to do is look:rolleyes:

joshky
09/04/2016, 09:52 PM
This is partially what I was talking about, sometimes it's more white and chunky looking. I just pulled this out from the anemone with a turkey baster, you can see the classic rat poop in the slime.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8089/28840766914_3605d6658e_o.png

This is a current photo of it, it's probably 50% of its size in this photo, granted it is nighttime but there's a bit more deflation than a healthy mag would show for sure (based on how large I've seen it during the day).

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8130/29465194625_7d173024c2_o.png

This anemone has never been flat like a pancake, never once had a gaping wipe open mouth, and its never lost its stickiness and has been on that plate since I acquired it. I'm beginning to wonder if my problems are due to water quality issues? I've been doing sometimes 150% water changes to keep up with water quality and it always seems to be full of crud the next time I look at it. The anemone is in a 20 long so I took it upon myself to fill the tank up instead of keeping it half full (10g), I also upped the flow with a RW-8 I had lying around, light is a chinese black box that I have at 75% on both channels.

Here's a photo of when it was first received, but do note that I've seen it larger than that photo. With the water increase in my HT I've upped the dosage of cipro to 500mg/night.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8201/29367687315_49c3a10c4c_o.png

On a side note, most of today this mag was partially balled up with short tentacles even during light hours. Does this mean anything to anyone? Later in the day is when I noticed deflation, but earlier on it was puffed up real nice even being balled up.

OrionN
09/05/2016, 07:19 AM
The stuff in your picture is just mucus strands. All the anemones will put out stuff like that, don't worry. Your anemone looks good.

joshky
09/05/2016, 05:02 PM
Okay thanks Minh, mine has been doing it quite excessively, I find myself pulling stuff like this out hourly when I can and even then it's not enough to keep the tank clean. I had strands similar to this float in my DT and I think some of it got wrapped up in one of my acros and caused it to partially brown out, there was no flow so I guess that's what happened. Should this be a concern when I reintroduce it to my DT?

Also what is considered an unhealthy deflation for an anemone in treatment? For instance, that photo if it being 50% deflated (give or take), would that reset the clock for when I can pull it out of the HT or is that normal due to stress from the environment? If that doesn't reset anything, then I can potentially remove it Wednesday should nothing else happen. I'd like to get it out of the HT, but of course rushing it will only hurt me so I'm not sure what to do.

joshky
09/06/2016, 10:11 AM
If it continues to respond to the cipro like it is now I feel that I can confidently put it in the DT on Friday. Since switching to cipro the coloration of the anemone has dulled considerably, not quite as pretty anymore, but given time I'm sure it'll get back to normal; I will take that over a dead anemone any day.

I have been doing two water changes a day, one in the morning (then redosing cipro), and one in the evening after the lights go out and dosing for the night as well. Perhaps unnecessary but it seems to be doing well and the last thing I want to do is be lazy and skip a water change and then have problems. It seems this fish flox forte that I purchased on ebay clouds the water up more than the previous cipro that I had, the glass panels cloud up as well from it.

Here is a photo of today, I'm finally optimistic about this anemone and its recovery.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8511/29392802722_770d0a7977_o.png

Banff
09/13/2016, 11:08 AM
So, I have a small magnifica, acquired yesterday and immediately treated with cipro, following the protocol. It has never had a gaping mouth, tents have been sticky, but it absolutely will not put its foot down. I have it sitting inside a small plastic storage crate inside the 10 gallon tank, in an attempt to keep the flow high enough without the free-floating nem somersaulting. It has a chunk of rock in there to attach to if it wants to. How big of a problem is it that it won't attach? It's much healthier than the only other one I have ever treated. It's not expelling gunk, it's not flattening out, it's keeping itself "anemone-shaped". Really, the only thing I don't like is the refusal to attach.

mnchartier
09/13/2016, 11:32 AM
Try something smooth like a bowl or coffee mug for it to attach to. Lower the flow until it does.

Banff
09/13/2016, 11:54 AM
It has a smooth glass bowl in there. I turned down the flow in the hopes that it decides to attach. It still looks good in every other way.

droth335
09/18/2016, 06:15 AM
I am really glad I found this thread a few weeks ago as we acquired a Ritteri that looked good at first but quickly took a turn for the worse and was literally on death's doorstep. We had just enough time to treat for 7 days with Cipro before leaving for MACNA. Its turnaround is remarkable. Here is a pic of it about 10 days after treatment. Thanks for the help!

http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad73/droth335/20160-09-13%20-%20Ritteri_resized.jpg

OrionN
09/18/2016, 07:54 AM
It has a smooth glass bowl in there. I turned down the flow in the hopes that it decides to attach. It still looks good in every other way.
How is he today? I hope doing well. Often they do not attach due to foot injury.

I am really glad I found this thread a few weeks ago as we acquired a Ritteri that looked good at first but quickly took a turn for the worse and was literally on death's doorstep. We had just enough time to treat for 7 days with Cipro before leaving for MACNA. Its turnaround is remarkable. Here is a pic of it about 10 days after treatment. Thanks for the help!

http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad73/droth335/20160-09-13%20-%20Ritteri_resized.jpg
Looking good. Give him a little time and he will recover and color up.

Banff
09/18/2016, 12:33 PM
How is he today? I hope doing well. Often they do not attach due to foot injury.


Looking good. Give him a little time and he will recover and color up.

Mine is quite happy now.

I have a degree in zoology and a fair amount of knowledge of comparative anatomy and physiology, so I feel like I have a decent skill at recognizing any loss of tissue integrity or tears. I have inspected it pretty closely on a couple of occasions and I've not seen anything that looks like a breach of the epidermis.

It had a fairly rough few days on the way to me, it came in a shipment of 36 other assorted anemones from Bali to a new LFS near me. I went on the way home from work and found all 36 undergoing a rather abrupt acclimation. I helped them sort through them and get them situated in something other than a bucket, and in the process, selected the one colour morph that stood out to me. It was completely deflated but seemed intact and it was holding its mouth closed and maintaining its overall shape. It was very sticky and the column felt stiff and contracted, rather than flaccid. I brought it home and immediately set up a treatment tank as described in this thread. I prophylactically treated it with Cipro for 6 days, although I suspect that I didn't need to. I think that in the first 24 hours, I was too aggressive with flow, and once I followed the advice I received in this thread to lower the flow until it was robustly attached (or in other words, stop hovering over it and micromanaging) it attached quite nicely. I am going to put it in the display tank today. I have never seen it with its mouth open and I think it's going to be much happier in a tank that has really stable para,enters, high flow and intense lighting.

I have no idea what the LFS is going to do with the other 11 magnifica that they received (yikes).

johnfallon135
09/29/2016, 06:49 AM
could i use a salt bucket as my quarentine?

OrionN
09/29/2016, 07:44 AM
It is hard to keep the anemone from the PH, and heater in a 5 gal bucket. If you are going to spend near 100.00 (OR MORE) for an anemone, I would recommend given appropriate care so you won't loose your investment.
You will need heater. PH in the QT tank. If you are not going to provide appropriate QT, then the anemone most likely do a lot better in DT.

D-Nak
09/29/2016, 10:00 AM
could i use a salt bucket as my quarentine?

If you're careful, you might be able to get away with it. But why bother when both Petco and Petsmart both have $1 per gallon sales on fish tanks? Just get yourself a 10 gallon tank. And if you want to make it easier on yourself, get two of them (if you have the space).

When you are considering purchasing an anemone, tack on $10-20 for the QT tank to the total price, and you'll realize that it's a drop in the (salt) bucket.

ClericalReefer
09/29/2016, 10:03 AM
Orion,

I found this thread last Wednesday after my Magnificent Anemone started inflating, then deflating, and so on... It looked awful.

I started the antibiotic treatment with cipro.

Day one: it was a 9
Day two: 7
Day three: 3
Day four 2 then a few hours of looking like a 9 again (but a lot of stuff spewed out of it - so I did a 70% water change and it went back to a 2)
Day five: 1-2
Day six: 1-2 and detached itself from the rock it was on and began climbing up the glass
Day seven (today): 1-2 probably a 1

Question: Should I keep dosing cipro? - its been 7 days and 3 days after its last deflation cycle.
What do I have to do to the rock that has been introduced to cipro before I put it back in the DT?

I really appreciate this thread! It helped me save this nem (I think!).

OrionN
09/30/2016, 05:35 AM
if you can post a picture, when he is at his best and when he is at his worst, then we can help. Seem like he is doing OK. You can treat for a few more day or transfer him to DT. I would only transfer to DT if there are no Magnifica in there. If you have another magnifica in the DT, then I would keep him in QT without antibiotic for about 1 week, if he is healthy then transfer to DT.
It is critical that you try not to detach him from his attachment. This really stress them a lot. If he attached to the wall of the QT then there is no choice. I often bring the cup my anemone attach to over to the DT and let them attach to the rock themselves. Once they move off the cup, then I take the cup out of the DT.

johnfallon135
10/01/2016, 03:46 PM
how come you use a second tank only once? is it okay to just use 1 tank and drain and refill it with the anemone in it? also is a airstone necessary if there's a powerhead anyway?

johnfallon135
10/01/2016, 03:49 PM
oh yeah is adding something for it to attach to necessary as well? couldn't it just adhere to the glass? it would be easier to detach it later off the glass after the treatment is over rather than a mug or live rock?

D-Nak
10/01/2016, 03:54 PM
how come you use a second tank only once? is it okay to just use 1 tank and drain and refill it with the anemone in it? also is a airstone necessary if there's a powerhead anyway?

Having two tanks just makes it easier to do the transfer. Instead of having to wipe down the dirty tank, you can swap everything from one tank to another. You then clean the dirty tank for use the next evening.

Here's my routine:

1. Set up tank #1.
2. On night 2 when it's time to clean the tank, I drain it, then move the anemone into tank #2.
3. I start to fill up tank #2 with clean salt water.
4. While the tank is filling, I clean the heater and powerhead and eggcrate from the dirty tank.
5. Once tank #2 is full, I add the heater, powerhead and eggcrate, and fire everything back up.
6. I then add Cipro.
7. I clean tank #1 and prepare for use the next evening.

The benefit is that the nem isn't out of the water for very long, but to be honest I think gigantea and magnifica can be exposed to air for a long time, given that this happens in nature during low tide. And of course, convenience.

And no, I don't use an airstone in my QT tanks. Not really needed with a powerhead already in use.

D-Nak
10/01/2016, 03:59 PM
oh yeah is adding something for it to attach to necessary as well? couldn't it just adhere to the glass? it would be easier to detach it later off the glass after the treatment is over rather than a mug or live rock?

Adding something for it to attach to is better because then you don't have to remove it after the QT process is over, you can just move the rock or mug to the DT and let it move off on its on.

If you opt for the two tank approach, it's obviously easier and less stressful simply to remove the nem/rock/mug than having to peel it off of the glass. If it's on the glass, then it's better to just use one tank.

OrionN
10/01/2016, 05:21 PM
oh yeah is adding something for it to attach to necessary as well? couldn't it just adhere to the glass? it would be easier to detach it later off the glass after the treatment is over rather than a mug or live rock?
I try my very best not to detach the anemone from his attachment. This stress them quite a bit IMO. I just have them attach to "something" then move it. Once in the DT, they move on to the rock and I can remove that "something" from the tank.

lewis.maryann08
10/03/2016, 05:46 PM
I have one that almost died in shipping and he has turned a brownish color and he don't open any all other corals look really good

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johnfallon135
10/03/2016, 06:25 PM
thanks for the responses guys. is there really any difference from switching between 2 tanks or just having 1 where i'll just drain and refill it with fresh medicated water? i guess the only benefit is that you get to clean the tanks better with 2 tanks? otherwise they're the same?

have you guys ever tried fragging your anemone if it gotten too big? or is it too inhumane? thanks!

OrionN
10/03/2016, 06:32 PM
The only host anemones that can be frag are BTA and likely Magnifica. All the other host anemones will not do well. Likely Gigantea survival rate is less than 50%. Even those that survived short term will not do well long term.

johnfallon135
10/03/2016, 07:10 PM
thanks minh i'm planning on getting a riterri/magnifica anemone. i'm surprised they can be fragged more easily than others since magnifica's are suppose to be the most difficult anemones to keep?

how would you go about fragging them? slice down the middle then put the 2 pieces back into the display tank or to the medicated tank? thanks!

D-Nak
10/03/2016, 07:43 PM
thanks for the responses guys. is there really any difference from switching between 2 tanks or just having 1 where i'll just drain and refill it with fresh medicated water? i guess the only benefit is that you get to clean the tanks better with 2 tanks? otherwise they're the same?

have you guys ever tried fragging your anemone if it gotten too big? or is it too inhumane? thanks!

Yes -- it's really just about convenience. I like thoroughly cleaning my QT tanks, and even better to allow it to air dry, and two tanks makes that possible.

D-Nak
10/03/2016, 07:46 PM
thanks minh i'm planning on getting a riterri/magnifica anemone. i'm surprised they can be fragged more easily than others since magnifica's are suppose to be the most difficult anemones to keep?

how would you go about fragging them? slice down the middle then put the 2 pieces back into the display tank or to the medicated tank? thanks!

I don't think they're easily fragged, just that some mags have split in captivity in the past. People have successfully force propagated them, but the success rate is lower than with BTAs. I always recommend letting them split on their own.

OrionN
10/03/2016, 07:58 PM
^^^
Agree. I think only Magnifica and BTA were documented that they can reproduce by fission in the wild. The other host species does not seem to have mechanism to regenerate the internal organs as these two species.

johnfallon135
10/08/2016, 08:06 PM
^^^
Agree. I think only Magnifica and BTA were documented that they can reproduce by fission in the wild. The other host species does not seem to have mechanism to regenerate the internal organs as these two species.

how do the other anemone's repopulate if not by fission? if splitting is what you meant by fission that is.

OrionN
10/08/2016, 09:16 PM
BTA and Magnifica are the only host anemone species that reproduce by asexual (splitting) in addition to sexual (sperms and eggs) reproduction. The rest of the host anemone species reproduced by sexual reproduction only.

johnfallon135
10/11/2016, 04:06 AM
BTA and Magnifica are the only host anemone species that reproduce by asexual (splitting) in addition to sexual (sperms and eggs) reproduction. The rest of the host anemone species reproduced by sexual reproduction only.

Thanks. If my hospital tank's ammonia doesn't rise after a day and I leave my anemone in there without changing new water will I have to add cipro again or is it depleted by then? I'm lazy I know lol

GrampaDon
12/26/2016, 10:20 PM
Treating a H. crispa in a 20long tank. It has 10g in it + eggcrate with PH and heater. Each day I drain 5g out. And replace with 5g tank water [165 SPS in excelent health] Then add 250mg of cipro.

My reasoning to start treating is after 2days it wouldn't attach. So I suspect mabey it has a injured foot and a spot for infection to enter the anemone.
So to be proactive I jumped ahead.

Now at 9days it is getting some better color. Eating very small shrimp pieces. And reactive to touch. But still not trying to attach in sand or rock. [both sand and rock are in a small butter bowl.

Any helpful advice going forward.?

zahira
12/27/2016, 01:40 PM
Has anyone tried using erythromycin as a cure. If it works, you could use it in a display tank. I have used it on a few occasions in the past as a treatment for cyanobacteria. Each time, I had anemones in my display tank. The first couple of times I have used erythromycin in my display tank, I had a blue gigas. There was nothing wrong with it and it showed no signs of stress or any problems with erythromycin. I eventually sold the gigas and recently bought a couple of H. crispa. The first was bleached and the second advertised as purple but when I received it, I could see it was dyed. Erythromycin did not cause any issues with these. In fact, the white crispa has started to go a dirty brown. But it may just be coincidence.

If erythromycin can treat anemones, it would be great because it is good with treating cyano as well. Besides, it does no harm to even the most delicate corals or fish (of course, you need to treat as prescribed). Unfortunately, my reasons were to treat cyano and not anemones, so I cannot say it will work or not with a sick anemone. However, I do not think it will harm it either.

OrionN
12/27/2016, 08:35 PM
I don't treat the whole tank with anything. The bio-system that is our reef-tank are complex and is bacterial driven. IMO, antibiotic in a reef tank will cause irreparable (or very difficult to repair) harm to the the reef-tank.

zahira
12/28/2016, 05:40 AM
I have used erythromycin off and on over three years and have never had any issues. Usage is normally once every six months roughly. I am aware of a few high profile reefers who also use it. If there were going to be any issues, I am sure I would have found out by now. I would suggest its use but would not recommend it as each to his own. I would certainly use it again if necessary.

thefuz
01/20/2017, 09:34 PM
Picked up a Blue Gigantea on Liveaquaria that arrived this morning. I think it's a 5 on the 'Amoo' scale. Looking at the mouth, am I correct with this assessment? I've gone dark with the QT and started Cipro at 250mg. Looking forward to first w/c late morning tomorrow!

Major thanks to D-Nak for talking me through this stuff!!!

Brando5185
02/06/2017, 02:00 PM
Picked up a Blue Gigantea on Liveaquaria that arrived this morning. I think it's a 5 on the 'Amoo' scale. Looking at the mouth, am I correct with this assessment? I've gone dark with the QT and started Cipro at 250mg. Looking forward to first w/c late morning tomorrow!

Major thanks to D-Nak for talking me through this stuff!!!

Did you get this off the Diver Den page?

thefuz
02/06/2017, 07:00 PM
Yup, got lucky (so far!) with that one. I think someone dropped it the day before, unless they put two up on consecutive days.

Brando5185
02/14/2017, 08:01 PM
Is cipronatin the same as ciproflaxacin?

hypnoj
02/14/2017, 08:32 PM
yes

Brando5185
02/17/2017, 07:28 PM
Have a mag in treatment right now. Looked rough when he arrived. Day 2 so far and he hasnt deflated since. Starting to bleach a little and spew small amount of brown goo. Other than that fingers crossed.

Brando5185
02/19/2017, 12:27 PM
Arrival day Feb 15th

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x56/brando5185/Mobile%20Uploads/20170215_135101_zpsczoxc5hk.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/brando5185/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170215_135101_zpsczoxc5hk.jpg.html)

Day 1 Feb 16th

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x56/brando5185/Mobile%20Uploads/20170216_071006_zpsfgp70nst.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/brando5185/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170216_071006_zpsfgp70nst.jpg.html)

Day 2 Feb 17th

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x56/brando5185/Mobile%20Uploads/20170216_120625_zpsrxon4lts.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/brando5185/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170216_120625_zpsrxon4lts.jpg.html)

Day 3 Feb 18th

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x56/brando5185/Mobile%20Uploads/20170217_080224_zpsv3n9zzdx.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/brando5185/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170217_080224_zpsv3n9zzdx.jpg.html)

Day 4 Today

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x56/brando5185/Mobile%20Uploads/20170219_115656_zpsoplayvtn.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/brando5185/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170219_115656_zpsoplayvtn.jpg.html)

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x56/brando5185/Mobile%20Uploads/20170219_115717_zpsykwwuvem.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/brando5185/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170219_115717_zpsykwwuvem.jpg.html)

He hasnt deflated since he arrived. Should I continue to treat or move to DT?

ReefPhilTX
02/19/2017, 05:27 PM
I would continue a full 7 day course of treatment. Your anemone is looking good. :-)

OrionN
02/19/2017, 10:32 PM
I would treat for 7 days. No antibiotic for 2 days, but still do full 100% water change. If he is OK then to DT. If there are no anemone in DT, then you can transfer after treatment.
He is looking good BTW. Hope he will do well for you.

Brando5185
02/21/2017, 04:24 PM
Came home from work and he looked like this today. Its day 6 of treatment. Should i be concerned?

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x56/brando5185/Mobile%20Uploads/20170221_172054_zpsaldwzio7.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/brando5185/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170221_172054_zpsaldwzio7.jpg.html)

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x56/brando5185/Mobile%20Uploads/20170221_172101_zpsfryzdb4p.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/brando5185/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170221_172101_zpsfryzdb4p.jpg.html)

Tentacles on left side are deflated but right side look good. Body is still inflated. Mouth is closed tightly. Wife said he was out wide all day and just recently closed in. Did a 100% water change.

D-Nak
02/21/2017, 04:34 PM
They ball up like that occasionally. It could be trying to expel the last bit of dead zoox. I wouldn't be too concerned, unless the tentacles deflate.

Brando5185
02/21/2017, 04:47 PM
They ball up like that occasionally. It could be trying to expel the last bit of dead zoox. I wouldn't be too concerned, unless the tentacles deflate.

Half the tentacles were deflated. :-(

OrionN
02/21/2017, 05:09 PM
When they ball up like that I don't count as deflated. Of course they have to deflate to get the tentacles into the body. That is IMO very different from deflation. I would not be too worry scout it

JustinM
03/20/2017, 07:51 AM
I'm sorry if it was posted, I didn't see it. Are we doing a water change daily, or just if we see cloudy water. I am going to be in treatment for a haddoni today and just want to make sure I have have everything down.

Thanks!

OrionN
03/20/2017, 09:17 AM
100% of water should be change daily, plus when it become cloudy with discharge from sick anemone. Medication re added when you change water.

JustinM
03/20/2017, 09:34 AM
Thank you for the clarification! Will start after work.

JustinM
03/20/2017, 11:35 AM
Started treatment. I know you said treatment should be added in the evening but I wanted to start as soon as possible. Tomorrow I will begin evening treatments. I will update with progress.

JustinM
03/20/2017, 04:04 PM
Here is day 1

http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah102/justinmuffley/IMG_1886_zpsq7yt3abw.jpg (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/justinmuffley/media/IMG_1886_zpsq7yt3abw.jpg.html)

How does it look? I know it's expelling some waste at the moment but it hasn't really inflated all the time. I have had it for a week now and it will inflate and deflate multiple times so I'm trying this.

D-Nak
03/20/2017, 04:09 PM
It looks good. I see dead zoox (the brown clumpy stuff) in the tank. When you see it, it's best to remove it with a turkey baster.

JustinM
03/25/2017, 08:21 PM
So tonight will be day 6 of treatment. I have noticed it keeps its mount closed for the most part now and hasn't really deflated since day 4.

Last night though it looked limp, is this normal?

http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah102/justinmuffley/IMG_1898_zpsz5uiegsq.jpg (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/justinmuffley/media/IMG_1898_zpsz5uiegsq.jpg.html)

corals4real
05/22/2017, 09:34 AM
Pic please i0
Here is day 1

http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah102/justinmuffley/IMG_1886_zpsq7yt3abw.jpg (http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/justinmuffley/media/IMG_1886_zpsq7yt3abw.jpg.html)

How does it look? I know it's expelling some waste at the moment but it hasn't really inflated all the time. I have had it for a week now and it will inflate and deflate multiple times so I'm trying this.


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OrionN
05/23/2017, 05:16 AM
I would be concern with the cloudy water, meaning he had large discharge. He looks contracted but not deflated.

Daisybee81
06/07/2017, 01:02 PM
I have just taken a nem I bought last week from my DT as it spent more time deflated than inflated.

I placed it in the DT tank 2 hours ago and it loooks much much worse

is that normal? I'm worried I'm killing it :(

Daisybee81
06/07/2017, 01:06 PM
This is it now

sumtingwity
06/08/2017, 10:27 PM
thanks

mandarin417
07/07/2017, 05:59 PM
I removed two ill gigs from the DT that also has bubble tips in it. They are being treated separately. After the 10 day treatment and if they look healthy, is there any other protocol I should use when returning to the display tank? If a gig was sick originally in the display tank, treated and then put back in the original DT, is it likely to get reinfected?

OrionN
07/09/2017, 08:24 AM
If you have a well run tank, I would consider 1 week to be adequate for the amount of pathogen to be low enough to be acceptable for healthy anemone. Of course if you have an injured or sick anemone then just the normal bacterial flora can cause a problem.

As long as you consider the anemone is fine then it is OK to put him back to DT.

Kinetic
08/21/2017, 09:30 PM
How are you able to achieve 100% water changes daily (and more than daily when there's discharge)?

Do you just totally drain the tank and then fill it back up with new RO/DI salt mix? Would that be stressful on the fish?

I'm considering getting something like a cooler or tub that has a spigot at the bottom. Protect the spigot area with eggcrate and use that to dump the water out completely.

Then with the new water pre-mixed and heated, slowly add it back in. But the nem would be exposed for that time. I'm guessing it should be OK?

OrionN
08/22/2017, 12:37 PM
Well dissolved, heated and aerated water should not stress the anemone. Need to match the salinity and temp. Chemistry would be essentially the same since you use the same water source. This is if you use newly mixed water.
I use water from my DT to do water change and the newly mixed water go into the DT.

Kinetic
08/22/2017, 01:05 PM
Well dissolved, heated and aerated water should not stress the anemone. Need to match the salinity and temp. Chemistry would be essentially the same since you use the same water source. This is if you use newly mixed water.
I use water from my DT to do water change and the newly mixed water go into the DT.

oh that makes sense. So pull water from DT for the treatment tank's water.

My other question was how do you remove 100% water from the treatment tank? Do you just siphon all of it out, leaving the anemone exposed out of water for a few seconds?

OrionN
08/22/2017, 05:59 PM
I often move the anemone to a temp container, change the water then put him back. I almost always have anemone attach to a cup or something small

Kinetic
08/22/2017, 06:07 PM
I often move the anemone to a temp container, change the water then put him back. I almost always have anemone attach to a cup or something small

That makes sense. So basically he'll still be somewhat submerged in a small container and easily lifted out?

D-Nak
08/22/2017, 06:48 PM
I've treated both gigantea and magnifica many times and I just completely drain the tank with the nem inside. In the wild, during low tide, they are sometimes completely exposed to air, and are even in positions where they are hanging off of rocks.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JconHdEODrE/T9CBD8Yu5_I/AAAAAAAA1DQ/m2ritVWsUjo/s400/_DSC4729m6.jpg

It's important to remove as much water as possible to minimize the pathogen that's causing the infection.

I typically use freshly made salt water for my water changes. My main tank has gigantea in them and I prefer to use water that isn't exposed to any type of chemical allelopathy. It's likely that there isn't anything in the water to affect a sick nem, but I always try to remove any possible contaminant.

Kinetic
08/22/2017, 06:49 PM
I've treated both gigantea and magnifica many times and I just completely drain the tank with the nem inside. In the wild, during low tide, they are sometimes completely exposed to air, and are even in positions where they are hanging off of rocks.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JconHdEODrE/T9CBD8Yu5_I/AAAAAAAA1DQ/m2ritVWsUjo/s400/_DSC4729m6.jpg

It's important to remove as much water as possible to minimize the pathogen that's causing the infection.

Good to know. I'll just drain all of it with a siphon!

Kinetic
09/01/2017, 01:35 PM
I'm starting to plan a treatment tank for a H. Magnifica.

- Two 18 gallon tubs
- One basic T5 light
- 75 watt heaters, one in each tub (79* F)
- Probably 2x Hydor Koralia Nano (240gph), one in each tub
- Eggcrate to keep the powerhead from blending...

Plan:
1. I will always have the second tub ready with new salt water mixed (maybe just from my display tank, giving my display a bunch of nice water changes).
2. Every day: move the nem to new tub. move the light over too (probably will only have one) clean and restore old tub with new water.
3. Discharge during day: move the nem earlier than 24 hours, and restore old tub
4. Every day: dose cipro with the dosing guidelines

Do you think this is adequate?

I probably won't start treatment on the nem unless the OrionN score on it is bad after the first 8 hours of putting it in the treatment tank. But I'll add it to the treatment tank when I bring it home and monitor before deciding if it goes into the DT or not.

Questions:
1. Will rubbermaid roughneck tubs be OK for the job?
2. How should I work the lighting schedule? The guide says to acclimate to the light over 12 hours, but then turn it off if you're treating with cipro?

Rispa
06/29/2018, 02:20 AM
This is great info!

OrionN
06/29/2018, 04:09 AM
I'm starting to plan a treatment tank for a H. Magnifica.

- Two 18 gallon tubs
- One basic T5 light
- 75 watt heaters, one in each tub (79* F)
- Probably 2x Hydor Koralia Nano (240gph), one in each tub
- Eggcrate to keep the powerhead from blending...

Plan:
1. I will always have the second tub ready with new salt water mixed (maybe just from my display tank, giving my display a bunch of nice water changes).
2. Every day: move the nem to new tub. move the light over too (probably will only have one) clean and restore old tub with new water.
3. Discharge during day: move the nem earlier than 24 hours, and restore old tub
4. Every day: dose cipro with the dosing guidelines

Do you think this is adequate?

I probably won't start treatment on the nem unless the OrionN score on it is bad after the first 8 hours of putting it in the treatment tank. But I'll add it to the treatment tank when I bring it home and monitor before deciding if it goes into the DT or not.

Questions:
1. Will rubbermaid roughneck tubs be OK for the job?
2. How should I work the lighting schedule? The guide says to acclimate to the light over 12 hours, but then turn it off if you're treating with cipro?
How did this anemone fares? Rubber maid tub is fine, but Petco have 1 dollar per gal sale often. I have several 10 gal tanks to use just for this

Chad_P
09/04/2018, 09:53 AM
How does Cefdinir compare to Cipro? Think I have a sick anemone taking a dive and worried I can’t get Cipro sooner than a couple of days. I have Cefdinir from a prescription for my sons ear infection (he never took it, dr prescribed in case he got an infection).


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Chad_P
09/08/2018, 09:59 AM
When do you know to stop treatment? My haddonni seems to have better body control, haven’t seen it deflate, but it still seems to be expelling brown pellets. Seems to be less each day but mouth is still open and anemone doesn’t feel as sticky.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180908/1315f5ad945ba13b9a122743247341db.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180908/e78b88056b04089b7ae522e16f0712a6.jpg


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OrionN
09/08/2018, 10:20 AM
You need to give them good care and good water. If you can do it in QT then it really does not mater how long they are in there. Expelled zoos is really a sign of stress, not necessary infection. As long as they don't deflate for at least 3 days, and I have treated them for at least 7 days, I have good luck with them do well. I usually have my QT in optimal condition, with circulation just about right. Very good stable water condition and great light, stable temp so I can leave my anemone in it for a long time.

Chad_P
09/08/2018, 10:32 AM
You need to give them good care and good water. If you can do it in QT then it really does not mater how long they are in there. Expelled zoos is really a sign of stress, not necessary infection. As long as they don't deflate for at least 3 days, and I have treated them for at least 7 days, I have good luck with them do well. I usually have my QT in optimal condition, with circulation just about right. Very good stable water condition and great light, stable temp so I can leave my anemone in it for a long time.



Thanks! That’s helpful. I’m using water from my display so I know the water is ideal parameters and I’m using an MP10 turned down to circulate. Also have a heater in there and a 140 watt LED a few feet above for the lighting period. So I think I’m giving him good conditions but apparently not if he’s still expelling zoos. Not sure what else I need to do.

I’ll keep on treating through the 7 days and as long as no deflating I’ll let him back in DT. I only saw him deflate once prior to treatment but the loose mouth made it seem enough to treat. Is it a concern that he doesn’t seem as sticky?


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Chad_P
09/08/2018, 07:02 PM
You need to give them good care and good water. If you can do it in QT then it really does not mater how long they are in there. Expelled zoos is really a sign of stress, not necessary infection. As long as they don't deflate for at least 3 days, and I have treated them for at least 7 days, I have good luck with them do well. I usually have my QT in optimal condition, with circulation just about right. Very good stable water condition and great light, stable temp so I can leave my anemone in it for a long time.



Sorry for all the questions but What are your thoughts then regarding the mouth being open? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180909/7fbdd53797a27b56044e310f004a8f22.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180909/733f06a9185531f51ad893484b4fc338.jpg

First pic is while still in treatment, second pic was while in DT before I pulled out to QT. It looked like that a little bit tonight, even after 4 nights of Cipro treatment.


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OrionN
10/23/2018, 12:43 PM
Slight UPenn mouth is fine. It is the large open mouth that is not associated with eating that is a sigh of bad health.
They can open their mouth and eat. That is no problem.

Zuuu
01/19/2019, 12:59 PM
Thanks a lot for sharing this treatment protocol! It helped to save my pink haddoni.
Before 399076
After 399075

Treatment was done in a bucket left from salt (25kg). Tiny pump was covered with a net i built from wires in a plastic shell.
399080

I was feeding it daily with a small piece of shrimp (about 5 millimeters) , starting from day 4, because mouth was never closing. Feeding helped to resolve this.
After treatment added 5 sexy shrimps in a hope that they would help clean some wastes from the carpet.
399079

OrionN
01/25/2019, 10:58 PM
I am glad that the treatment help save your anemone. He is a beau.

Weboh
04/01/2019, 01:18 PM
Would Fish Mox (AKA amoxicillin) work just as well as Fish Flox (ciprofloxacin)? My LFS doesn't carry fish flox but does carry fish mox.

OrionN
04/01/2019, 01:23 PM
Amoxicillin is quite wide enough spectrum. Use it while you MO ciprofloxacin. I would use 250 mg per 10 gal also.

Weboh
04/01/2019, 01:37 PM
Thanks for the quick reply! If Amoxicillin is good enough, why do you recommend I order more ciprofloxacin? I'd be almost done with the treatment by the time it got here anyway.

OrionN
04/01/2019, 01:41 PM
I meant NOT quite wide enough spectrum. Sorry

anemoneguy
10/09/2019, 07:10 AM
So set up a 10 gallon tank for my blue gigantia thats been tanked for about 5 years, and notice the water is very cloudy. Is this normal? 10 gallon with heater and pump for airation along with 250 of cipro. I had to take my tank down and start over do to a dino outbreak and the nem wasnt looking good in the temporary 40 gallon breeder i have set up for my fish and him until new tank gets re started.

SNAKEMANVET
12/21/2021, 09:58 PM
Anyone wi]th experience treating a rbta with Cipro.