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View Full Version : Should Marco "Pre-Cycled" Rocks Be Nuked before Use?


Buzz1329
03/28/2013, 06:48 PM
Does new Marco Key Largo “Reef Safe" rock, “Shipped Pre Cycled to help speed the set up of your new tank” need to be pre-treated with bleach, muriatic acid, and/or lanthium chloride/Sea Klear before being added to a new tank? I seem to be reading that while BRS Pukani dry rocks are phosphate factories, Marco rocks are not. What would you do if setting up a new build with Marco Key Largo rock? Nuke it or rinse or something in between?

Thanks.

thegrun
03/28/2013, 08:51 PM
You are defeating the purpose of buying live rock if you are just going to nuke it. I used dry marco rock when I set up my 50 gallon cube. I soaked the rock in RO/DI water for two weeks in a Brute trash can and didn't have any phosphates. I then cycled the rock, no problems one year in. I can't speak for their "precycled rock, but I would be surprised if it had significant phosphate issues.

Buzz1329
03/29/2013, 05:29 AM
Thanks thegrun.

Actually, the rock in question is "dry rock," although Marco calls it "pre-cycled" rock. I'll contact him to find out exactly what he means by that. Good to hear you did not have phosphate problems with Marco rock. Thanks.

PrangeWay
03/29/2013, 08:32 AM
I'd stick it in a Brute with RO water and a powerhead for a day, than measure phosphates.
If it comes up 0 your gtg, if it comes up with a reading you'll need to treat it with a phosphate remover till it is 0.
The warning here is I've found that any mined dry rock you get ends up pusing out at least some phosphates.

PW

borderreef
03/29/2013, 11:46 AM
Does new Marco Key Largo “Reef Safe" rock, “Shipped Pre Cycled to help speed the set up of your new tank” need to be pre-treated with bleach, muriatic acid, and/or lanthium chloride/Sea Klear before being added to a new tank? I seem to be reading that while BRS Pukani dry rocks are phosphate factories, Marco rocks are not. What would you do if setting up a new build with Marco Key Largo rock? Nuke it or rinse or something in between?

Thanks.

I used 150# to replace/rescape my 130g dt. Put it in a brute with nsw, a powerhead for airation, and a small heater. They send a starter culture of bacteria and an ammonia product to kickstart the rock. After 1 week, all parameters were good after the initial spike. I had it in for about three weeks or so because I removed small protions of my existing rock at a time. To keep the bacteria going I added what was left of the ammonia product they sent after about the second week. I've talked to some who have just rinsed theirs in ro/di and put it into their tank. I've rarely hear of phosphates coming from Marco Rock like many of the other dry rock.

Buzz1329
03/29/2013, 12:22 PM
Thanks guys,

Marco rocks it is then for my new build. I'll follow your advice and soak it with powerhead/heater for a week and assuming no phosphates transfer it to tank

How much of the Key Largo would you recommend for a 180?

I was a big proponent of live rock but 13 months after starting my current tank with live rock, I'm getting tired of fighting the bubble algae and aiptasia. Every time I think I've got them licked, they come back.

One other question, given the pests in my current tank, I'm assuming it would be a bad idea to move some sand (or a reactor full of month old GFO/GAC) from the current tank to the new tank to try to jump start the cycle?

Mike

saltysailor2329
03/29/2013, 12:45 PM
I just finished my 200g DD build and used 150lbs of Marco Dry Rock. Here is what I did...I put it all in Brutes with RO water for 24 hours, then I moved them to new Brutes with new RO water for 24 hours, then I moved them to new Brutes with new RO water for a final 24 hours. I tested for PO4 and was in the clear so then I scaped my tank and filled with RO water again and let it run with just RO water for a week. Tested for PO4 again and was in the clear so I added salt and has been up and running for two weeks now.

On a side note, I also got 160lbs of their sand as well. I just rinsed this with RO water once and added it to the tank. PO4 is still at zero.

borderreef
03/29/2013, 06:20 PM
Thanks guys,

Marco rocks it is then for my new build. I'll follow your advice and soak it with powerhead/heater for a week and assuming no phosphates transfer it to tank

How much of the Key Largo would you recommend for a 180?

I was a big proponent of live rock but 13 months after starting my current tank with live rock, I'm getting tired of fighting the bubble algae and aiptasia. Every time I think I've got them licked, they come back.

One other question, given the pests in my current tank, I'm assuming it would be a bad idea to move some sand (or a reactor full of month old GFO/GAC) from the current tank to the new tank to try to jump start the cycle?

Mike
I used all 150# in my 135g. I like the look of a full tank. Some don't. The 150# package would make some really nice islands, columns, etc in a 180, and give plenty of room for fish to swim. If you need more, it's just an internet order away. I began the switch for the same reasons you want to. I did it in three small sections, kept the existing substrate, just vacuumed each section before adding the new rock. I ran bio pellets for the few weeks it took, just to have the added bacteria. I also cut 3" diameter pvc into 3" "stands" to set the rock just above the sand. Flow now goes under the rock as well as around. I also plan on getting a couple of goby species, and did not want them undermining the large rock piles causing a possible rock slide.

Since you are adding it to a new tank, I'd do the cycle right in the tank rather than in a Brute. Using the starter culture and ammonia Marco gives you starts your cycle like no bodies business. I'd also just give the old sand a quick rinse in salt water, whether new or the old tank water, and use it. Why waste the bacteria that's there. Replace the gfo and gac.