Scott's 270 aka Project Mayhem [Archive] - Reef Central Online Community

Scythanith

03/31/2013, 10:12 PM

Hello All,

We bought a new home 5 years ago and the plan was always to develop the basement into a comfortable living space that accommodates our love for animals. My wife Wendy has ~10-15 snakes at any given time depending on if any one is breeding, a tarantula, Aussie Frilled Dragon, Plated Lizard. I just took down my 85 gal and moved the inhabitants to a 40 gal on rollers to make the development a little easier. I have had a 10 gal nano, 20 gal mantis tank, 85 gal mixed reef. We also have a red eared slider and an awesome pound dog named Jasper.

6 snake tanks are incorporated into one of the walls and mounted on 200lb sliders to make pulling them out of the shelf unit for maintenance easier. They will have pocket doors over the fronts of the tanks that are finished in an Espresso coloured wood veneer. Just think Petland or something like that.

On to the good stuff! Before I get too far into I want to that Steve (sphelps), Colby with Bayside Corals and Denny at Concept Aquariums, I could not have done this without them. I tsarted a thread way back when but it fell to the wayside. You can find it here (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1141802). I asked Wendy what we should called the build thread and she said Project Mayhem, so I present to you Project Mayhem!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-FZ7R9L9/0/M/i-FZ7R9L9-L.jpg

It is a 270 gal (72"w x 36"d x 24"t) with an external overflow on the left hand side. It's all 1/2" glass with the front and right side viewing panels being made out of starfire glass. It has a 1/2" plywood base glued to the bottom pane. The euro bracing is drilled for the returns.

The sumps are in a stacked configuration. The water from the overflow is fed into the sumps with 2 x 2" returns. The first chamber is a frag tank, the second is the return pumps. There is an overflow to the lower sump which will feed the skimmer, reactors, filter bags, and refugium. It's also has a water change chamber and an emergency overflow. I know this goes against the conventional thinking that the dirtiest water should hit the skimmer first, but I am going to utilize the energy from the overflow feeding into the sump for frags. The skimmed/reactor/refugium water will be fed back into the pump chamber and returned to the display tank.

I traditionally have used overdriven T5's for my reef tanks but and switching over to LED's. I have purchased 3 Mitras fixtures so hopefully that should cover the coral's lighting needs. The returns and reactor pump with likely be DC Wavelines. In-tank circulation will be handled by four Vortech MP40w's. One underneath the overflow and three along the back wall. I will put one on the right viewing pane if need be but I want to keep the pane clean. I will likely wrap the pack pane in black vinyl.

I am not sure about my skimmer yet. I have a BK Mini 180 and I like the quality, but I also use a Euro-Reef RC-1000 and it's been great aside from cooking a pump once. I am thinking a BK supermarin 200, but hate to overpay if there is something equivalent in quality/performance for less.

OK, so that should sum up what I am thinking of. Now for the good stuff!

Design phase:

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-hTncZGw/0/M/i-hTncZGw-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-2CjtKcs/0/M/i-2CjtKcs-L.jpg

Building the stand, preparing the fish room and getting the basement ready:

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-vtcb3dD/0/M/i-vtcb3dD-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-w7jFw5W/0/M/i-w7jFw5W-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-kC92T5n/0/M/i-kC92T5n-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-3CWcs2w/0/L/i-3CWcs2w-L.jpg

Scythanith

03/31/2013, 10:13 PM

The fishroom is wired with 2 20 amp breakers. The first powers the 4 receptacle on the left hand side of the room. The second runs 6 receptacles along the back wall, with the final two on GFCI. I know it's overkill, but I'd rather that than kick a breaker after a power outage. I know the LED's and DC pumps should really soften startup but a little overkill isn't a bad thing. The sink will be a stainless scullery sink that can easily fit 5 gal pails. There is some cabinet and cupboard space, as well as wall space for the RO/DI. The salt and fresh reservoirs will be set in another room most likely, but I will fit them by the sumps if possible.

I plan on using either a profilux or a neptune controller. I haven't really decided either way yet.

Scythanith

03/31/2013, 10:14 PM

Delivery day came and went! There was a great old storm coming through but the tank was unloaded and not a chip or crack in it.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-7S7CHbq/0/L/i-7S7CHbq-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-dknKmR5/0/L/i-dknKmR5-L.jpg

I hired one company that brought it into the house but then looked at the stairwell and said no way. So I built a 2x2 frame of the exact tank dimensions (minus the overflow) and made a dry run through the stairwell and it fit, just like my measurements suggested it would, sans overflow.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-X6m6Dzp/0/L/i-X6m6Dzp-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-5TTcFZ7/0/L/i-5TTcFZ7-L.jpg

After trying to cut the overflow off for over five hours (razor blade, 20g wire, etc.) and with the movers coming in a couple hours I made the hard decision and broke the smallest pane on the overflow and peeled the rest off. It came off easy once I had the once pane off. Made me cry inside a little but oh well, better the tank is downstairs and I have to repair one little pane of glass.

So the movers showed up and looked at the route and weren't too stoked. But they didn't complain, just got their equipment together and got to work, The laid the tank, starfire up, on the piano dolly, then lashed a wheeled dolly onto the overflow side. After some swearing and back breaking work, they had it down safe and sound! I paid them, am tipped them well to boot!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-VdrfBfv/0/L/i-VdrfBfv-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-SHK9sLq/0/L/i-SHK9sLq-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-L7BZf4k/0/L/i-L7BZf4k-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-q2Pgpkb/0/XL/i-q2Pgpkb-XL.jpg

Here it is in place!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-22zqLGW/0/L/i-22zqLGW-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-LpczzkM/0/L/i-LpczzkM-L.jpg

rpjaws74

03/31/2013, 10:54 PM

wow nice work man!!

Poriferan

03/31/2013, 11:52 PM

Glad it made it down. Moving that size glass tank is no fun. I feel your pain. Looks great.

Scythanith

04/01/2013, 03:37 PM

Thanks all! The City inspector comes on Wednesday and once he signs off on the framing I can start my general electrical. Once that's signed off on I can start with the drywall. The entire fish room will be green board. The only thing I haven't decided on is if I should leave the backside of the bulkhead over the tank open, or drywall it in. I know drywalling it in will be cleaner but I might want to set stuff on the exposed 2x4 framing.

I imagine I will enclose it so it's clean and that the moisture has that much more to content with to get through to the main living area.

Aquatron

04/01/2013, 04:08 PM

You have a great start going! Very nice size tank and what a picture of the snow....... Here in california we only see snow if we drive up in the mountains:)
Best of luck with your build!

Scythanith

04/01/2013, 09:24 PM

I am looking forward to getting the walls on that's for sure!

Haahaa I will see if I can get my pictures from my Mom & Dad's house. They had 12 foot drifts last weekend.

Fish are friend

04/01/2013, 09:47 PM

cant wait to see the progress

Scythanith

04/03/2013, 11:27 AM

Framing is signed off on! Time to run electrical!

Scythanith

04/05/2013, 11:43 PM

Well no build thread is worth it's weight without some coral pictures! These are all sitting in my 40g interm tank.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-f7tb5B5/0/L/i-f7tb5B5-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-nbzBZHW/0/L/i-nbzBZHW-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-vsV4mjK/0/L/i-vsV4mjK-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-vRCfPDG/0/L/i-vRCfPDG-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-7ctjcb7/0/L/i-7ctjcb7-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-8SWsLMt/0/L/i-8SWsLMt-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-68p7VsW/0/L/i-68p7VsW-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-ZhRgxXC/0/L/i-ZhRgxXC-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-WNWHKPJ/0/L/i-WNWHKPJ-L.jpg

Scythanith

04/05/2013, 11:44 PM

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-WTXHMTz/0/L/i-WTXHMTz-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-sKGwtPQ/0/L/i-sKGwtPQ-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-FFfjzfj/0/L/i-FFfjzfj-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-sCF7w6P/0/L/i-sCF7w6P-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-wkL85tg/0/L/i-wkL85tg-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-GScG9kT/0/L/i-GScG9kT-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-4znPnLm/0/L/i-4znPnLm-L.jpg

Scythanith

04/05/2013, 11:44 PM

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-C9R4HPn/0/L/i-C9R4HPn-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-SSPRfpf/0/L/i-SSPRfpf-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-djFmpHD/0/L/i-djFmpHD-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-6KtZrhM/0/L/i-6KtZrhM-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-Hxn2bjf/0/L/i-Hxn2bjf-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-pHj8BbG/0/L/i-pHj8BbG-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-qXgxK4G/0/L/i-qXgxK4G-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-BdDGGZt/0/L/i-BdDGGZt-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-WM6qF5T/0/L/i-WM6qF5T-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-xd9HDQf/0/L/i-xd9HDQf-L.jpg

Scythanith

04/05/2013, 11:45 PM

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-qwQ6nKx/0/L/i-qwQ6nKx-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-tmKqx5f/0/L/i-tmKqx5f-L.jpg

Scythanith

04/07/2013, 09:08 AM

Does anyone have an opinion on how much lighting the Ice Fire Echinata should be getting? Right now mine is getting as much as it could in my tank (4 overdriven T5's wi individual IC reflectors, ~12-15" away).

Scythanith

04/10/2013, 08:33 PM

My friend Steve and my Dad have helped me over the last couple days to get some more drywall put up. The fish room is really near complete in that regard. The drywall in the fish room is Certainteed M2Tech Moisture & Mold resistant so that should help our HVAC fight the higher than usual humidity.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-Bf4JtZt/0/L/i-Bf4JtZt-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-pvFnsBj/0/L/i-pvFnsBj-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-9sJ3J42/0/L/i-9sJ3J42-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-VStsvnH/0/L/i-VStsvnH-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-znL8GBK/0/L/i-znL8GBK-L.jpg

Scythanith

04/20/2013, 09:33 AM

Mudding and tapping is well on its way today! Should be able to paint by mid-week. I am still waiting on the replacement piece of glass for my overflow. If I don't get it from the builder soon, I will go out and get a new one cut at a local glass shop. I am excited to build the sump stand and start working on the plumbing!

And my third Mitras showed up so I will get to work hanging those once the mud dust has settled!

Scythanith

04/21/2013, 09:33 PM

Getting closer!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-GLCfSQ3/0/L/i-GLCfSQ3-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-KWNVKC7/0/L/i-KWNVKC7-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-VHMrMwW/0/L/i-VHMrMwW-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-Tk5Nbfw/0/L/i-Tk5Nbfw-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-WVkV8MQ/0/L/i-WVkV8MQ-L.jpg

Scythanith

04/30/2013, 02:57 PM

The mudding and sanding is all done! I am stuck at work so I am going to get my lovely wife to take some pictures for me! She is going to paint while I am away. When I see it next the walls will be done! I can start building the sump stand and plumbing!

Sweet!

SPotter

04/30/2013, 08:27 PM

looks like a great build and very similar dimensions to my tank. It will be fun to watch this develop.

Scythanith

05/01/2013, 10:53 AM

SPotter, if I remember correctly you have a decent chalice collection don't you? I am going to cruise through your build thread and try to learn a bit!

SPotter

05/01/2013, 01:48 PM

SPotter, if I remember correctly you have a decent chalice collection don't you? I am going to cruise through your build thread and try to learn a bit!

I wish!!! I have a couple but nothing exotic.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

Scythanith

06/07/2013, 01:15 AM

Man developing the basement is taking forever! I finally had time to put in the floor drain, build the sump stand, and silicone the overflow back on. I won't likely get a chance to plumb it before I go back to work but we shall see what happens on monday!

Rigging to hold over flow in place while silicone dried.
http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-jr2Tts4/0/L/i-jr2Tts4-L.jpg

General arrangement. The floor drain will have the water change valve and emergency overflow plumbed directly to it.
http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-82knJRQ/0/L/i-82knJRQ-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-RhGfsGb/0/L/i-RhGfsGb-L.jpg
I will try to describe the flow of water through the sumps. You can see the primary frag chamber top left, return pump chamber top middle, and overflow top right. The skimmer chamber is bottom right, filter basket chamber bottom middle, return pump chamber bottom left, refugium bottom far left.

The refugium will be fed off a manifold powered by the lower sumps return pump. The manifold will also feed a couple reactors for bio pellets and GFO.

Slowly but surely it's coming together.

Rogerh

06/07/2013, 04:56 AM

Nice build, following this:)

ktr55

06/07/2013, 07:55 AM

Great start, can't wait to see water in the tanks :)

Scythanith

06/07/2013, 11:21 AM

Thanks all! I have made up my rudimentary plumbing supply list and will try to track some of it down today.

Scythanith

06/17/2013, 02:38 AM

I just picked up these beauties! Avast Marine Works MR5 & MR10 media reactors, a Mutiny II ozone reactor, and the Kraken!

MR5
http://www.avastmarine.com/ssc/images/store/mr5_18_md.png

MR10
http://www.avastmarine.com/ssc/images/store/mr10_18_md.png

Mutiny II
http://www.avastmarine.com/ssc/images/store/mutiny_series_md.png

The Kraken
http://www.avastmarine.com/ssc/images/store/kraken_md.png

The MR5 is for GFO, the Mutiny II will drain it's effluent into the MR10 which will be packed with GAC. The Kraken is a biopellet reactor I plan on running. I still need to chose which biopellets to run, as well as which ozone generator/air dryer/pump to use. Any suggestions?

I'm pretty stoked though!

Scythanith

07/17/2013, 06:49 PM

So here's a question for all you pro's out there. Are these safe to use as the pulleys above my tank that will suspend the lights? They are rated for 110lbs each (according to the package), so weight isn't an issue. My biggest concern is the metal they are made from. It doesn't say anything specific on the packaging. I am worried about flaking metal into the tank after repetitive use. Am I being to concerned? If you think they are an unwise choice, could you suggest a safe pulley alternative?

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-NgFCRP8/0/L/image-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-4tNKtHj/0/L/image%20copy-L.jpg

Cheers,
Scott

Scythanith

07/17/2013, 10:28 PM

Tile is up, grouting tomorrow.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-pPpNxpK/0/L/DSC_3944-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-LcXDS5s/0/L/DSC_3945-L.jpg

Bad view of the lighting rig

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-3wtTK2Z/0/L/DSC_3946-L.jpg

Fireplace tile matching the fish tank

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-mcc2rW4/0/L/DSC_3948-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-qPNM6vC/0/L/DSC_3951-L.jpg

Scythanith

07/17/2013, 10:29 PM

Newbie Aquarist

07/17/2013, 11:21 PM

I like the tile work on the stand and how you also matched it with the fireplace too.

Rogerh

07/18/2013, 02:37 PM

Nice, following this:)

Scythanith

07/18/2013, 07:22 PM

Here is the new gear.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-zDDVRFM/0/L/image%20copy%202-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-D8cSdQf/0/L/image%20copy%203-L.jpg

Genesis Corals

07/18/2013, 08:50 PM

I love the tile going throughout the room.

Scythanith

07/19/2013, 01:56 PM

Grouting is done, lights are rudimentarily up. I plan on cleaning up the wiring and probably raising the lights up to the main support beam to give me a little more head room when I raise the lights to the roof for maintenance. All I have to do is tighten up the aircraft cable between the lights and the beam.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-zhfpH9q/0/L/i-zhfpH9q-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-TKrfxnF/0/L/i-TKrfxnF-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-M7b5Nvv/0/L/i-M7b5Nvv-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-XzRdxpK/0/L/i-XzRdxpK-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-mKRgF3G/0/L/i-mKRgF3G-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-LN9HzQh/0/L/i-LN9HzQh-L.jpg

Scythanith

07/25/2013, 07:34 PM

So I am having a tough time finding a DC12000 (as everyone else is). The question is do I wait for it to be released or find a suitable replacement? Anyone have opinions on what to replace it with? It has to be internal and controllable.

Also, anyone want to weight in on the Alpha cone vs Royal Exclusiv Double Cone? I am leaning to the RE but have had PLENTY of people tell me to go to the Alpha.

Thanks!
Scott

Epicreefer

07/25/2013, 09:03 PM

I heard the dc pumps were held up in customs a month or two ago, just saw them for sale on one website emailer so maybe they made it trough. Don't know for sure though. Suposedly they fixed the issues with the last run or two with cracking plastic fittings. All of this is hearsay so trust only what you see.

I would replace it with a reeflow blowhole pump. Not the same but not too different either and an American made product.

Scythanith

07/26/2013, 02:19 AM

The reeflow doesn't really look like it will suit my needs. I like it in theory though! I'd have to mount the pumps against the wall and it would take up valuable wall space. I like the 0-10V controllability of the DC12000. It will play nice with the Apex when I get it set up.

Thank you for the suggestion though!

Newbie Aquarist

07/26/2013, 06:52 AM

There are so many version of those DC pumps out that anyone will work for you. RLSS, Smartwave, DC Diablos all are from the same manufacturer with just different stamps of approval.

Scythanith

07/27/2013, 01:13 AM

RLSS is so damn close now! They released the DC4000 $ 6000's, but there was an issue with the 12000's. I waited this long, may as well wait a little longer.

qwuintus

07/27/2013, 02:01 AM

Pimp build. Nice color palette.

Can we see the rest of the space?

Noamurmac

07/27/2013, 06:22 AM

Scythanith

07/27/2013, 08:55 PM

Pimp build. Nice color palette.

Can we see the rest of the space?

Sure, I am stuck at work and don't have updated shots but here is what I have.

The tank is behind me on my right.
http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-QfFWPXF/0/L/i-QfFWPXF-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-JP6qFHG/0/L/i-JP6qFHG-L.jpg

The cabinetry is going in the start of next week, and carpet shortly after. We should be over 90% done in a week! When I get home in a week I will shoot some new pictures for everyone.

Cheers,
Scott

Scythanith

07/27/2013, 09:21 PM

you created a great space with this tank! You have really put a ton of thought into this build love the tile as well as the lights. Is it just going to be gravity that will take the water from the first and second tank to the third or will you have to use more than one return pump?

Correct. There is an overflow section in first (top) sump that will only overflow what the return pump in the second (bottom) sump puts back into the top sump. Kind of like an open "closed" system. If for some reason the return pump in the bottom sump quits (failure, plugged, etc.) the lower sump will not overflow. It will simply have no flow going through it. But just in case an ATO gets stuck on or something equally as bad, there is an emergency overflow in the bottom sump that will have an alarm on it that will shut off the ATO and notify me.

My friend built the 1st version of the system and designed mine with the changes he'd like to make. He's a smart guy so I trust him :)

Scythanith

08/01/2013, 09:40 AM

Just bought this beauty, a BK Double Cone 250 with RD speedy 3. Should be here next week!

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii226/Ranger69/DoubleconeBK_zpsdffe749b.jpg

I am really having a dilemma right now on choosing a return pump and manifold pump. I was waiting for the Waveline DC12000 but I am getting a little scared of the rumours of spotty customer service and reports of the new DC6000 having flow issues. I really like the Abyzz pumps but they are a lot of cash. I need reliability, over anything else, it needs to be reliable. I am going for long stretches and I don't expect my wife to change pumps out for me.

Can anyone rationalize one pump over another? Waveline, RD3's, Abyzz A400...

Thanks!

Scythanith

08/01/2013, 04:20 PM

So I have been doing a little figuring on costs for DC pumps. Here is what I came up with.

RE RD3 speedy 65W 1848 gph $753 2.45g per $ 2yr warranty
Speedwave DC10000 2640 gph $200 13.2g per $ can't find literature (assume 1 yr)
Waveline DC12000 3170 gph $280 11.3g per $ can't find literature (assume 1 yr)
Abyzz A400 4910 gph $2340 2.1g per $ 10yr warranty

Where does this leave me... I don't know. The higher the inferred quality, the higher the price. I just have to decide what my pocket book will handle.

Scythanith

08/03/2013, 07:53 AM

Some progress has been made! You can see the scullery sink we had made up sitting in place. It will sit "on top" of the countertop once it's in. I think we will buy some back splash tiles from HD or Rona and do a back splash as well. Above the back splash will be some peg board or something like that to hang tools.

You can see the opening on the left for the mini freezer.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-b6Cn8Dz/0/L/i-b6Cn8Dz-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-C7xXVqw/0/L/i-C7xXVqw-L.jpg

Scythanith

08/07/2013, 07:59 PM

Delivery day!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-pfs6prb/0/L/i-pfs6prb-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-H29XsbM/0/L/i-H29XsbM-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-3mVzgmH/0/L/i-3mVzgmH-L.jpg

I have an issue with the dimensions of the sump and my sump chamber. It fits almost perfectly aside from a bulkhead I have in the back righthand of the sump. The base for the skimmer just overlaps the bulkhead so the skimmer doesn't sit flat. I am going to find someone that CNC's plastic and have them build me a little 1/2" tall base that the system sits on.

Cheers,
Scott

rocknut

08/08/2013, 12:23 AM

Totally understand the skimmer excitement! I waited for nearly two months to get my Supermarin 200 in June, but it was all worth it once I took it out of the box. I loved the Royal Exclusiv "bag". :). Enjoy. Also, build looks great. What I wouldn't give for a basement/tank room...

Scythanith

08/23/2013, 12:02 PM

The cabinetry is close to done. There are some big corrections that need to be made but you can get the overall idea. The gap in the doors on both the snake tanks and aquarium top need to be backed so there is no light leak. The lower brace on the aquarium top needs to be altered so I don't lean on it when I get into the tank from the front. Countertops need to be installed. Blah blah blah. Carpets were to be installed on wednesday but they double booked and bounced us to next week.

On a side note, I am tired of dealing with contractors that don't seem to care.

Enjoy!

Snake wall
http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-QgxHZkr/0/M/i-QgxHZkr-M.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-RVL9GR6/0/M/i-RVL9GR6-M.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-w9wDNLb/0/M/i-w9wDNLb-M.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-w9wDNLb/0/M/i-w9wDNLb-M.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-QMqLWMX/0/M/i-QMqLWMX-M.jpg

RJT

08/23/2013, 12:35 PM

Looks great You did all of this work yourself?

Sonicboom

08/23/2013, 01:13 PM

Newbie Aquarist

08/23/2013, 01:28 PM

That there is some nice cabinetry work sir.

matt.fhm

08/23/2013, 02:10 PM

nice build. Following this.

Scythanith

08/24/2013, 08:51 AM

Looks great You did all of this work yourself?

I didn't do the cabinetry myself. That's the one thing I contracted out since it has such a drastic effect on the final look of the project. The company I hired had good references but has been less than a dream to work with.

Scythanith

08/30/2013, 09:40 PM

This is exactly how i would do my build if i can find a sub contractor not wanting to get rich off me., wife and i have already agreed to enclose a portion of the house for an in wall tank. will tag along to take notes:wavehand:

The original quote we were given for about 60% of the work was almost $30K. Not including: fire place or installation, any cabinetry work, carpets, the fish tank or equipment. So far, not including the fish tank & equipment, I am under $25K for the basement development. It wasn't that hard, asking for help from friends in areas I wasn't 100% sure about. I hired out the jobs that directly affected the look at the end of the project.

All in all we saved ~$20K by doing what we could on our own. That's money that can now go into the tank!:bounce2:

The carpet is in but I am at work. I have some iPhone pictures from Wendy but the iPhone won't do the work justice. I will post new ones once I get home :)

I also worked on the overflow plumbing that connects the overflow to the sumps. I am regretting using spa flex since it still had a bit of curl to it. I am concerned that the PVC cement won't fill the slight angle that the spa flex enters the bulkhead. If I have a leak I will re do the span with rigid 2" PVC.

I am still unsure about Apex vs Profilux. I was pretty sure Apex was the one for me, but the new wireless Mitras control has begun to sway me to the GHL side :) I want to be able to control my pumps (I decided on the new RE RD3 pumps that are 5-10v controllable), my mp40es vortechs, have water leak detectors, control water changes, run my doser, and control my lights. Well neither could run my lights not that long ago, but the new wireless module from GHL is a bit of a game changer. the more I have been reading aquadigital's reviews on how to set up AWC and ATO features on the Profilux, the easier it looks.

Any words of wisdom? I know nineball switched from Profilux to Apex and they said it was a great switch. Help....

Sonicboom

08/31/2013, 07:42 AM

I am already working on getting at least the foundation permit and hiring a contractor to come lay the foundation and do the plumbing.
I was on the fence about Apex vs ReefAngel, so many options...

Scythanith

08/31/2013, 11:29 AM

The majority of homes in Canada have poured concrete foundations. We are lucky to already have a strong based for tanks. Wendy and I knew we were going to have this system in the house before the home was built. We had the plumbing planned out for the fish room specifically. Whomever buys the house after us can put a bathroom or wet bar in the place of the fish room if they so choose.

Sonicboom, have an advantage since you can lay out your plumbing to work exactly for your tank. Then they pour the foundation around it. Make sure you have all the floor drains you'll need :) And what did you decide to go with, the Apex or Reef Angel?

Cheers,
Scott

h.cordero

08/31/2013, 12:37 PM

Really nice cabinatry looks top clean work. Really like the fire place and that awsome BK supermarin with Dc pump. Do you think that its worth the extra cash for the pump DC on the skimmer?

Scythanith

08/31/2013, 04:46 PM

In any case it's more efficient than AC pumps when it comes to power usage. Maybe a little safer since there is less juice in the water?

Thanks for the compliments! That fire place warms the basement up quite quickly.

acesq

09/02/2013, 10:03 AM

Great build Scott. I am starting a large build myself and my cabinet maker and I have not decided how to secure the hood. How did you? Is it attached to the wall, the ceiling or sitting on the tank? Any issues with it?

I was at MACNA this weekend and spoke with Klaus from Royal Exclusiv about the new DC pumps. He had the 80W 2150gph on display at the Premium Aquatics booth and said it will be shipping at the end of the month. It will have a 0-10V connection so it can be controlled by an Apex or Profilux. The big news for me is that they are releasing a 240W 4000+gph controllable pump at the end of the year! That will be perfect for my closed loop. The hard part is waiting. I may have to spring for a couple of Blue eco 240W pumps so I can complete my build before next year.

Scythanith

09/02/2013, 07:31 PM

Hi acesq, thanks for the compliment. The cabinetry is affixed directly to the bulk head I have made above the tank. The cabinet door hinges are right into the 2x4 framing around the opening. Now I had a specific request for the front doors which they didn't do correctly. I wanted there to be no, as in zero, cabinetry in my way to lean into the tank when the doors are open. They built a bottom portion that stays when the doors open. Since then they have removed it and are rebuilding it to my original requirements.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-VHMrMwW/0/L/i-VHMrMwW-L.jpg

Jeremy took a video of the 80w RD3 for me from MACNA haahaa :) I was planning on going but then work needed me. Ah well, next year is Denver! I will bring the wife and take her to a show at Red Rocks.

The plan has been to get that exact pump you mentioned. I am a little disappointed if there is still going to be a 1-2 month wait for the 0-10v connection though. I want to get this puppy running! I may just put a dummy pump in to get everything running. I am using vortechs in tank to bump up my turn over. 4 MP40's gives me ~4000-12,800 GPH above my return pump. I have been seriously debating getting the Abyzz A200 if the RD3's aren't ready soon! I haven't found one negative about them aside from price.

I had a friend of mine, who is smarter than I am, to work out my max flow through my weir. His math said I could flow ~3800 GPH through the overflow teeth. I wanted to figure out what size return pump to get that wasn't under/overkill. My buddy Colby, and LFS owner, suggested 5x turnover (of display tank volume) through the sump was sufficient. So that would mean I should aim for ~1350 GPH from the return pump. I will likely go for a little more, but I don't want the pump I choose to be running at 100%.

Cheers,
Scott

acesq

09/02/2013, 08:05 PM

Scott, thanks for the picture. I'll show it to my contractor and ask him to build the hood in the same way.

Scythanith

09/03/2013, 10:22 PM

They are supposed to be back on thursday to finish up the work. Once they finish it up I will take a couple more pictures of the finished product for you.

Scythanith

09/07/2013, 10:29 PM

Some tank shots. Carpet's in, baseboards are on!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-B7N2RQq/0/L/i-B7N2RQq-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-FDKgVtH/0/L/i-FDKgVtH-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-6Fkh3Kz/0/L/i-6Fkh3Kz-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-Qjm7Cjb/0/L/i-Qjm7Cjb-L.jpg

Fish room.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-SgsKh3g/0/L/i-SgsKh3g-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-XRz9Zkm/0/L/i-XRz9Zkm-L.jpg

The Snake wall. Still needs some backing, tanks cleaned, a little light sealing, bla bla bla.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-Kh3889S/0/L/i-Kh3889S-L.jpg

Fireplace, cabinetry, carpets, tile... nearly done!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-fbwwQtR/0/L/i-fbwwQtR-L.jpg

I still need some ducting work, and a light fixture or two. Then all the work on the tank :)

Cheers,
Scott

Hurting2Ride

09/08/2013, 05:32 PM

RE RD3 speedy 65W 1848 gph $753 2.45g per $ 2yr warranty
Speedwave DC10000 2640 gph $200 13.2g per $ can't find literature (assume 1 yr)
Waveline DC12000 3170 gph $280 11.3g per $ can't find literature (assume 1 yr)
Abyzz A400 4910 gph $2340 2.1g per $ 10yr warranty

Where does this leave me... I don't know. The higher the inferred quality, the higher the price. I just have to decide what my pocket book will handle.

I feel your pain; I really want a fully controllable DC pump but between quality reports, production delays, etc...well, ugh.

In your case with a new build and lots of room (so jealous) have you considered going with the less expensive pump but plumbing in a 2nd, back-up pump as either fully redundant or splitting the flow between them? Since you'll have the controller in place if something bad happens while you're away all the wife would have to do is turn a valve or two and you'd be back in business - unless, of course, you add in controllable valves! :thumbsup:

Hurting2Ride

09/08/2013, 05:51 PM

I have an issue with the dimensions of the sump and my sump chamber. It fits almost perfectly aside from a bulkhead I have in the back righthand of the sump. The base for the skimmer just overlaps the bulkhead so the skimmer doesn't sit flat. I am going to find someone that CNC's plastic and have them build me a little 1/2" tall base that the system sits on.

I ran in to a similar problem and ended up going the DIY route. I had some spare grey Matala sheets (http://www.matalausa.com/prod40.html) for my pond filter. It cuts easily with a bread knife in to any shape you want and you can slice it as thin as about 1/4". Since I vacuum my sump during water changes I didn't worry about accumulated gunk but you could wrap it in 50 micron filter pad material if prefer to keep it clean.

Total time: 10 min. Total cost < $5.00. :dance:

Scythanith

09/09/2013, 08:40 AM

I feel your pain; I really want a fully controllable DC pump but between quality reports, production delays, etc...well, ugh.

In your case with a new build and lots of room (so jealous) have you considered going with the less expensive pump but plumbing in a 2nd, back-up pump as either fully redundant or splitting the flow between them? Since you'll have the controller in place if something bad happens while you're away all the wife would have to do is turn a valve or two and you'd be back in business - unless, of course, you add in controllable valves! :thumbsup:

The system is already designed for two return pumps :) Great minds think alike ! I won't have controllable valves on them but they will have their own check valves in case one fails the other should still deliver water to the tank.

Scythanith

09/09/2013, 09:05 AM

I ran in to a similar problem and ended up going the DIY route. I had some spare grey Matala sheets (http://www.matalausa.com/prod40.html) for my pond filter. It cuts easily with a bread knife in to any shape you want and you can slice it as thin as about 1/4". Since I vacuum my sump during water changes I didn't worry about accumulated gunk but you could wrap it in 50 micron filter pad material if prefer to keep it clean.

Total time: 10 min. Total cost < $5.00. :dance:

I had a local plastic CNC company make me a base out of 1/2 acrylic. I put the skimmer and pump on a piece of cardboard and traced it out. I then cut out the template and put it in the sump to account for the bulkhead. It worked out great! Cost was $75 though!

Scythanith

09/09/2013, 09:52 AM

And I forgot to mention we just had 10 babies hatch :) Not fish, but they have scales!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-C8XSps7/0/L/i-C8XSps7-L.jpg

wrxreefer823

09/09/2013, 06:18 PM

Wow. That's all I can say. You, sir, have accomplished what I dream about. Keep up the good work!!

Lilmatty5dimes

09/09/2013, 07:45 PM

this is such an awesome set up can't wait to see some more progression. keep the pics coming.

has no life

09/09/2013, 08:04 PM

nice build . love snake rack !!!!

Scythanith

09/09/2013, 10:24 PM

Scott, thanks for the picture. I'll show it to my contractor and ask him to build the hood in the same way.

The contractor told me after the fact that it would have been better if he had built the bulkhead/cabinetry from scratch and suspended it himself. My bulkhead wasn't exactly plumb and that gave them some fitment issues. FYI.

acesq

09/09/2013, 10:39 PM

Good to know. The finished product looks great!

leslie hempel

09/10/2013, 09:42 AM

looks like a stunner in the making

Scythanith

09/12/2013, 02:28 AM

So I have narrowed it down to two pumps: 3 x RD3 80w with 0-10v controllers OR 3 x Abyzz A100. I could have the Abyzz in a week. The RD3's "possibly" sometime in October. The only catch is the 3 RD3's would cost as much as 2 A100's... But I like the idea of running the A100's controllers as they were meant to, in tandem working together. I could easily work the return plumbing to maximize what the programming could allow for.

Also, I plumbed some spa-flex between the overflow and returns and am getting a slow drip from both bulkheads on the top sump. I am going to cut out the spa-flex, grab a female/female 2" coupler and new bulkheads and remake the connection with 2" rigid. That should alleviate any weird stress on the bulkhead gasket. Any objections?

shiladitya1991

09/12/2013, 10:39 AM

Great job so far. Really like the overall getup of the room.

Scythanith

09/13/2013, 08:51 PM

I pulled the trigger and ordered a Profilux 3.1N eX Ultimate set, a second 6D-PAB powerbar, mitras controller, vortech controller, some optical level sensors, and a humidity/temperature sensor and card, slave doser.

I decided to go with GHL since I have 3 Mitras already, and the programming support is there if you look for it, and the programability is endless. I want the Mitras and doser to be controlled, ATO & AWC operational, email alerts and monitoring/controllability away from the system. I want to be able to asses the system for Wendy when I am away from work!

It won't all be in until the start of October, which is ok since that's when the RD3 80w is supposed to be released. If the pumps aren't ready then I have decided to buy the Abyzz pumps, which are available now.

bigehugedome

09/13/2013, 09:47 PM

this is amazing!

Scythanith

09/14/2013, 04:07 AM

Thanks, I am looking forward to actually getting some water into the bad boy!

Scythanith

09/21/2013, 07:12 AM

I just bought this beauty for the new tank (have I mentioned I love my LFS):

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/734043_555314991201518_1979721124_n.jpg

I ordered my pumps, an Abyzz A200 for the main return and an Abyzz A100 for the lower sump/manifold pump. I felt a little sick ordering them but I can't wait for the RD3 80w anymore. I have a feeling it's still a couple months away from making it to Canada.

The Abyzz sound amazing, but this will be my first encounter with them so I will do a little review once I get them here. They are controllable by the Profilux so feeding mode, thunderstorms, etc. will all have pump responses.

Cheers,
Scott

Scythanith

09/21/2013, 10:40 AM

I messed up on the picture, this is the one I bought. My LFS says it will blue up and the base is gold.

https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1231456_555314294534921_1757847200_n.jpg

Pife

09/21/2013, 09:12 PM

Great build and beautiful basement. Where did you find the top hammer picture? It is amazing.

Scythanith

09/21/2013, 09:33 PM

Great build and beautiful basement. Where did you find the top hammer picture? It is amazing.

Thank you Pife, it's been a lot of work but we are looking forward to the day that we can just sit back and have a beer down there and watch the corals grow lol!

It's my local fish store, Bayside Corals in Saskatoon. It's from an Aussie order they just got in.

Scythanith

09/23/2013, 02:46 PM

Soooo I just found out that I need to wire a 240v receptacle for the Abyzz a200. Not a deal breaker but an added expense. I just wanted to throw that out there so anyone that is looking for one and comes across this thread gets the heads up. Back to wiring.....

.Marshall

09/23/2013, 03:28 PM

Beautiful!!! Subscribing!

steiny805

09/23/2013, 04:15 PM

your basement looks awesome! def keeping that in mind for a few years from now

Scythanith

09/23/2013, 05:20 PM

I've been thinking more about the rockscape, and more specifically how to secure odd, off balanced structures. I think I will get my hands on some thicker pvc sheets and put rods into the base to secure the structures base to. Then in anticipation for the corals I wasn't to make a peg system to be able to move corals if need be. I know I have seen them on RC, but does anyone use them in their own tank. Any advice? What type of frag plugs do you use?

Scythanith

09/24/2013, 09:56 AM

I've been recommended to just make everything solid and be smart with where I put my corals haahaa!

Scythanith

10/03/2013, 10:24 AM

Sleepy plug is tired....

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-68bNPX8/0/L/i-68bNPX8-L.jpg

Now it just needs it's friend to show up!

Sonicboom

10/03/2013, 10:27 AM

hahaha, oh man even outlets are getting smiley faces!

EMUReef

10/03/2013, 11:04 AM

Haven't posted in a while on RC.. so i choose you. I love the finish of the basement! I'm a poor SOB right now and out of the SW scene until i can afford my own place and giant tank.

Nice setup and you score some nice coral from your LFS.

ExtremeTang

10/03/2013, 11:15 AM

Wow. Nice coral selections ESP the orange tip hammer

Scythanith

10/08/2013, 11:58 PM

Say hello to sleepy plugs little friend! Big shout out to Jean-francois at Marinetech Innovations Inc. (http://www.marinetechinnovations.com/marinetech/index.php?width=1440), Michael at AquaDigital (http://www.aqua-digital.com) and Colby at Bayside Corals (http://www.baysidecorals.com/store/) for bringing it all together!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-K7B6Wpv/0/L/i-K7B6Wpv-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-sP99mcc/0/L/i-sP99mcc-L.jpg

And some more goodies showed up today!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-QKJJv5q/0/L/i-QKJJv5q-L.jpg

There is a crap load of sensors and wiring to do now! I am fighting with one little hiccup. One of my overflow return pipes is ~11/32" too low and ~1/8" too short. I can't just move the sump closer since the second line is in a perfect location already. I will either: a) cut out the 45 elbow and move it back ~1/2" to gain the 11/32" in height, then add the 11/32" PLUS the 1/8" I am already short OR b) cut out a couple inch section along the middle and use a soft silicone hose to join the two, hoping the hose will allow for the variation.

Any suggestions?

Cheers!

acesq

10/09/2013, 08:47 PM

sweet pump! let us know how well it puts out. will you control it with a third party controller?

Scythanith

10/11/2013, 09:26 PM

I have purchased the profilux interface for the Abyzz pumps. I plan on tying the pumps into the system so that feeding modes, thunderstorms, water changes, water leak sensors, etc. all have an appropriate response.

I had to head back up to work today so the tank won't see love for a couple weeks. All I really have left to do is the return system plumbing. I have the overflow and drainage plumbing done.

Scythanith

10/12/2013, 12:00 AM

Here is the plumbing and miscellaneous work I had completed before leaving for work.

I envision the Mitras ballast top left, the Vortech controllers and battery backup mid-left, and have room to spare centre and right side.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-v5GN9xs/0/L/i-v5GN9xs-L.jpg

The stacked sumps. You can see the returns from the overflow going into the sump top left. I hand tightened them and still had a couple leaks. My LFS told me to use a wrench and give them all quarter turn and low and behold they are all good! You can see the abyzz A200 in the primary return chamber.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-s5CZjkv/0/L/i-s5CZjkv-L.jpg

The lower sump's return manifold is done. The three bulkheads on the bottom sump are for draining the chambers and one is an open emergency drain (far left).

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-CJF8QpD/0/L/i-CJF8QpD-L.jpg

You may be able to just make out the lower drain plumbing. The centre and right bulkheads are on ball valves while the left is a safety to prevent overflowing in a worst case scenario.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-ZWxFN9M/0/L/i-ZWxFN9M-L.jpg

I need to clean the 1/2" plywood up a bit more, a little white caulking, etc., but the plywood is in place to allow me to affix electronics, powerhead controls, wiring looms, power bars, really anything I want to... to the wall. The space on the right is for the reactor shelf, dosing containers, profilux, etc.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-4G5w3CS/0/L/i-4G5w3CS-L.jpg

Sonicboom

10/12/2013, 05:33 AM

Looks fantastic! Will water splash everywhere when you open the drain and it hits the grate?

Scythanith

10/12/2013, 04:53 PM

The grate is just there so I don't lose plumbing fittings and tools down the drain :) I will be drilling a hole and extending the drain past the grate when ready.

Scythanith

10/14/2013, 08:16 PM

Does anyone have personal experience with the RK2 ozone generators? I am looking at buying their 300mg/hr unit. Also, would you be content using the Profilux system to control and monitor the ORP or would you buy the RK2 monitor controller? I personally feel that the Profilux should do the job just fine, but am open to everyones suggestions!

Cheers,
Scott

dahenley

10/15/2013, 09:25 AM

theres a person here named "MrWillson"
he is taking care of someones tank and he used a RK2 skimmer and there ozone. you might ask him as he has first hand experience with those and the Profilux control system.

dave.m

10/15/2013, 09:52 AM

The thread you are referring to belongs to member nineball, and yes, mr.wilson takes care of it. The thread starts here (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1811725) and continues here (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2096730). They added a head cleaner to the RK2 and thoroughly panned the Profilux in frustration, eventually converting over to the Neptune.

Dave.M

Scythanith

10/15/2013, 09:33 PM

Yep I have been reading that thread fairly religiously. I asked nineball and Mr.Wilson about their Abyzz pumps and plumbing a little while back and they were very helpful. I know they switched from GHL to Neptune, but it was due to a lack of customer support, no because of a poor product. I have a good support network around me for Profilux assistance, but none for the Apex. Hence the choice I made.

I heard back from RK2 (excellent customer service so far!) and they said there should be no problem using the Profilux to control their ozone generator.

Thank you for your comments, I really appreciate the feedback and idea sharing!

tassod

10/16/2013, 01:18 PM

Scythanith,

This is a pretty amazing build, i'm very impressed by it. I'm from Montreal but I live in IL now. I just ordered a custom acrylic tank, 72"L x 32"w x24"t ( i would have gone with 36" wide but it wont get through my hallway to get to the basement). I'm going with a 36" coast to coast internal overflow plumbed for a beanAnimal style. Got a question about how you have setup your return with the manifold. I also want to set it up like this and I currently have 2 reeflo BH1450's (1 is a backup and not in use) on my 125g tank. Can I use both of these pumps to run my new tank with a return manifold like yours or would you suggest using a different pump like a reeflo Dart? I am not familiar with the return pumps you are using. I was thinking i could use each of my BH1450's to power 3 returns for a total of 6 returns. Your thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated.

dahenley

10/16/2013, 06:59 PM

on a side note....
why are you choosing RK2 for ozone?
why not use OZOTECH?

i only ask, because ozotech deals 100% with ozone and from what i have read, they are in a different ballpark compared to most aquarium ozone generators.
(Disclamer..... i have 0 experience with them or any connection with them...)

i just have been looking and reading because i plant on running a little on my new aquarium setup.

Scythanith

10/16/2013, 07:17 PM

Thanks a lot tassod!

So let me wrap my head around what you're asking. You want to run both pumps together to feed the returns to the main display tank AND to run a manifold to feed accessory equipment (GFO, Carbon, etc)? Keep in mind my top pump goes directly to the display tank. The bottom pump feeds the manifold and returns clean water to the top sump. They are two independent systems.

On to your tank. Worst case scenario you have 6' of head heigh and one pump can push ~1200 GPH. So two plumbed together may be able to double that, assuming you're using large enough piping. The tank really only needs ~5x turnover so that uses up one of the pumps capacity. The second pump would be more than enough to feed the manifold. The tricky part would be plumbing it so that if one pump quits when you're not around, the flow from the other pump doesn't take the path of least resistance and go right back into your sump through the other pump. In my original design I was going to have two return pumps in the top sump. They were both going to utilize GF check valves to ensure if one pump failed the flow from the second pump will sill go into the display tank. plus they would have union ball valves to make for easy maintenance. When it comes to the returns in the tank, I have locline valves on all of my returns so I can regulate the flow.

I have not used the reeflo's, and to be honest I think they discontinued the BH line, so I don't know what that says about their reliability. You may be better off to buy a quality single DC pump to handle the task. Think about your needs:

How much "through sump" flow do you want? I'd suggest 5x the tank volume.
How much flow does your manifold require? Many reactors are ~100-200 GPH.
Do you want to have to maintain one pump or two? One is cheaper, two means backup if one fails.
Quality check valves (still not fool proof) are ~$100 a piece, do you want that added expense?

A huge percentage of reefers use a single pump to run their systems. It just gets touchy to balance out flow to the accessory equipment. If I was feeding the skimmer off the pump, I'd have a stand alone pump to run the manifold. That type of equipment requires a consistent water height to operate at its best.

My manifold will feed a couple reactors who's flow isn't critical, hence why I have the lower pump running double duty, return to tomp sump and feeding the manifold. Just for comparison sakes: A200 (top pump, 200w) is ~3800 GPH, A100 (bottom pump, 100w) is ~2100 GPH.

I hope that helps!
Scott

Scythanith

10/16/2013, 07:23 PM

I recognize RK2 from commercial aquarium institutions, so my thought is if it's good enough for them it's good enough for me :) The ozone generator has been one of the biggest x-factor purchases to make. There isn't a ton of material to find on them. Also, nineball uses RK2 equipment on his 1350g, and he doesn't skimp on anything. Good enough for him, good enough for me lol!

Please link to any info you have suggesting one is better than the other and I will read it!

Cheers,
Scott

on a side note....
why are you choosing RK2 for ozone?
why not use OZOTECH?

i only ask, because ozotech deals 100% with ozone and from what i have read, they are in a different ballpark compared to most aquarium ozone generators.
(Disclamer..... i have 0 experience with them or any connection with them...)

i just have been looking and reading because i plant on running a little on my new aquarium setup.

dahenley

10/16/2013, 07:31 PM

the RK2 ozone and skimmer was a part of an origional plan a while back....... it was suggested because it was big (i believe) (nineballs origional plan was to use bioballs with a UV and the RK2... and that has significantly changed)

there isnt a lot of info on the RK2..
RK2 got big a while back because no one was making anything for big tanks... or commercial tanks. not because they are the best....

you might ask mr. willson because i believe he has been in the industry for a while and owned and operated and what not many of tanks. he might say they are fine or suggest something else.

i only asked because i have read that RK2 skimmers are not best... but they are popular because of size.. (non efficient as well)

ozotech only does ozone.. so i figured they might be better. (but as i said... i am no expert and have never used either of the companies talked about)

Scythanith

10/16/2013, 08:55 PM

Thanks dahenley. The way I look at an ozone generator is fairly simple. It's a device that creates ozone. The complexity of the system comes in when you incorporate the reaction chamber, air pump, air dryer, ORP controller and sensors. Those are all from companies that are well regarded in their individual fields. As long as the ozone generator creates ozone, my system will work :) That was optimism there haahaa!

I also looked at Del Ozone, Cleartech (which I believe RK2 uses), RedSea, and Ozotech. It came down to what other high end systems were using.

tassod

10/16/2013, 09:07 PM

R.W.

10/16/2013, 09:23 PM

Now this is a gorgeous set-up! I want to purchase the basement from you! Keep up the good work! My favourite part of getting a new tank is constructing/assembling everything. I almost purchased an Abyzz pump a couple months ago but decided to wait until my next tank.

I look forward to more updates!

R.W.

Scythanith

10/16/2013, 10:53 PM

tassod, I don't think it's too much horsepower but I personally would rather have too much than too little. Say you get ~3000GPH out of it. Your 250g tank requires ~1250GPH to get 5x turnover. That leaves you ~1750 GPH to play with. That's a lot of flow.... a lot. If that doesn't feed your accessory equipment then you're trying to run another 250 off the manifold lol! Honestly I'd put more flow into your display tank, depending on what your overflow can handle. I'm not up on my overflow capabilities so I couldn't help you there. It may not be the worst idea to look at the Dart. ~2500 GPH so there would be less wasted horsepower. It all comes down to what your overflow can handle. Would you rather have flow from your return pump or from power heads?

What flow does your GFO, Carbon reactor and UV sterilizer require? The dart uses ~160 watts whereas the barracuda uses ~250 watts. Why waste watts on a ball valve?

Hope that helps!

Scythanith

10/16/2013, 11:23 PM

Haahaa thanks! Not for sale, unless you want the rest of the house as well :) The construction is a love hate relationship. I enjoy doing my parts, but despise waiting on contractors to do their parts. I am actually surprised now when a contractor does what I pay them for. That's sad.

The Abyzz is new to me as well. I am pretty excited to get them purring. The A100 is supposed to be on its way now as well!

I just ordered my live rock. ~100lbs of Walt Smith premium fiji and ~75lbs of pukani. I hope to get it into the tank before a knee surgery I have coming up on the 1st. Let the tank cycle and get happy :)

Now this is a gorgeous set-up! I want to purchase the basement from you! Keep up the good work! My favourite part of getting a new tank is constructing/assembling everything. I almost purchased an Abyzz pump a couple months ago but decided to wait until my next tank.

I look forward to more updates!

R.W.

tassod

10/16/2013, 11:32 PM

Scythanith

10/17/2013, 12:29 AM

Return flows seem to be so linear. Maybe if you put a rotating assembly on the output you can get a little more variable flow! I like the random nature of programmable power heads.

Hurting2Ride

10/17/2013, 12:40 AM

Mind you, if I got great flow just from the returns, i could eliminate power heads...:lmao:

Don't laugh too much. That's exactly the option I choose because I can't stand staring at a bunch of big powerheads on/in my tank. I use locline on the returns and can direct my flow exactly where I want it, including lower down in the tank without blowing my fine sand all over. Throw a ball valve on each return and you can get pretty exact about where and at what rate your flow goes. I use a single Stream pump tucked in to the corner of a 180 gal tank and have more than enough flow when combined with the returns.

As far as the Dart vs the Barracuda wattage, keep in mind that if you have higher head pressure (ie 10'+), the Dart's flow curve drops off rapidly. Yes, you will use more energy with the Barracuda but given how much time and money goes in to our tanks I find that the few extra dollars/mo are worth the benefit of a clean look and added flexibility.

Lastly, I'm a big believer in making sure that the water is always near oxygen saturation. Driving more flow through the drain and sump keeps my DO and off gassing at max all the time without needing a lot of surface turbulence.

tassod

10/17/2013, 08:35 AM

Don't laugh too much. That's exactly the option I choose because I can't stand staring at a bunch of big powerheads on/in my tank. I use locline on the returns and can direct my flow exactly where I want it, including lower down in the tank without blowing my fine sand all over. Throw a ball valve on each return and you can get pretty exact about where and at what rate your flow goes. I use a single Stream pump tucked in to the corner of a 180 gal tank and have more than enough flow when combined with the returns.

As far as the Dart vs the Barracuda wattage, keep in mind that if you have higher head pressure (ie 10'+), the Dart's flow curve drops off rapidly. Yes, you will use more energy with the Barracuda but given how much time and money goes in to our tanks I find that the few extra dollars/mo are worth the benefit of a clean look and added flexibility.

Lastly, I'm a big believer in making sure that the water is always near oxygen saturation. Driving more flow through the drain and sump keeps my DO and off gassing at max all the time without needing a lot of surface turbulence.

This is exactly my thought, i will be going with a barracuda pump and will probably sell my 2 mp40's and get back some money as well! :) This will help me sleep better at night as I have 4 carpet anemones and I wont have to worry about them walking into a power head anymore.

Scythanith

10/17/2013, 10:59 AM

Guess you guys don't need me here.... :)

tassod

10/17/2013, 11:11 AM

Guess you guys don't need me here.... :)

We will always need you! :thumbsup: Can you post some more pics of the top of your tank, would like to see how all the returns are plumbed...

Scythanith

10/17/2013, 12:09 PM

I haven't finished it yet. I will finish it when I get home on the 24th and take some pictures. Essentially I have 1 1/2" plumbing from the abyzz A200 -> a union with a 1 1/2" x 1 1/4" bushing -> 1 1/4" plumbing over the tank. Over each hole in the eurobrace I have a 1 1/4" x 3/4" bushing -> ~3" piece of 3/4" pipe -> 90º elbow with threaded end -> 3/4" locline valve -> locline outlet. Only downfall... once glued it won't be able to be taken apart without cutting. Threading everything is the other option, I'd rather glue.

I had to buy a 3 way LT and a 4 way LT from an online retailer to make some unique connections. I'm glad I ordered extra since the neck on the special parts were longer than normal T's and I have very limited head space. I needed to take the spare ones and cut the neck down so the bushing fit a little deeper into the fitting.

Easy peasy :(

I'm all about random flow! I will have 4 mp40's on my tank, as well as the abyzz A200 pumping through the returns. All in all, I can have ~16000 GPH. Combine that with the BK250 Double cone, I don't think oxygenation will be issue in my case :) Keeping the sand in the tank might though.

tassod

10/17/2013, 12:53 PM

How big where your holes on top of the tank in the euro bracing? I'm having mine cut for 1" schedule 80 bulkheads

Scythanith

10/17/2013, 01:09 PM

Mine are 1" holes. They fit 3/4" plumbing. I'm not using uniseals or bulkheads.

jacob.morgan78

10/28/2013, 09:53 AM

Great thread! The attention to detail is awesome!

Looking forward to those updates!

Thanks for sharing

Scythanith

10/29/2013, 10:45 AM

Let there be updates!

It has begun! Damn is my RODI slow! I have the 100psi booster on there and it's still painfully slow.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-LzFVVk4/0/L/i-LzFVVk4-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-XBsnvkw/0/L/i-XBsnvkw-L.jpg

Return plumbing is 90% done. I just have to paint the 90's black and glue them in!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-Lh2DvTV/0/L/i-Lh2DvTV-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-7T6rvHN/0/L/i-7T6rvHN-L.jpg

tassod

10/29/2013, 10:50 AM

Very cool, was looking forward to these pics!

Scythanith

10/29/2013, 04:20 PM

I will get some more of the actual returns in place for you.

Scythanith

10/29/2013, 06:57 PM

Locline returns!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-rdJVRj9/0/L/i-rdJVRj9-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-cgWCtkG/0/L/i-cgWCtkG-L.jpg

Sonicboom

10/29/2013, 06:59 PM

Nice! I've got those same valves on mine..lol

tassod

10/31/2013, 09:08 AM

So the valves on the returns are on the inside of the tank? Thanks for the pics BTW, they really help me.

tonyda1st

10/31/2013, 09:30 AM

this belongs in an episode of tanked.
nice job.
need to post more pics.

Scythanith

11/01/2013, 07:45 AM

So the valves on the returns are on the inside of the tank? Thanks for the pics BTW, they really help me.

Yep. I have head room issues above the tank where the plumbing is so I couldn't put the valves outside of the tank. This was the best option I could come up with.

I would have located all of the plumbing aside from a couple links of localize outside of the tank if I could have. But with the black background on now you don't see the returns at all. I'm sure that will change when they get some coraline algae on them though. I will be looking at the corals and fish though…. not the returns :)

Scythanith

11/01/2013, 07:47 AM

this belongs in an episode of tanked.
nice job.
need to post more pics.

Haahaa I don't know if that's a compliment or not :) I can get some more pictures in a couple days. I am going in for ACL reconstructive surgery today so I won't be running up and down the stairs for the next little while :(

Cheers,
Scott

Scythanith

11/01/2013, 08:51 PM

Little update. I have to add some risers in the overflow box to keep the tank from draining down to the bottom of the weir teeth when the return pump shuts down. That overloads the sumps and ay too much water goes down the emergency drain. I think raising the overflow box level should fix that. What do you all think?

As for the baffle situation, I am hoping that the lower sump return pump adds enough volume to the pump chamber to reduce the distance the water drops from the frag section to the pump chamber. Maybe that will alleviate the bubbles, yes no? If not I tried holding some fluval foam just under the water level in the pump chamber and it dissipated the bubbles before they entered the chamber. If that's the way to go I need to make some sort of a foam holder that hangs on to the baffle edge.

I really won't know until I get my other pump running and see if the increase in pump chamber water height solves the bubbles.

What do you guys/gals think?

Newbie Aquarist

11/02/2013, 03:07 AM

Haahaa I don't know if that's a compliment or not :) I can get some more pictures in a couple days. I am going in for ACL reconstructive surgery today so I won't be running up and down the stairs for the next little while :(

Cheers,
Scott

Wish you the best on your surgery. If you haven't read my thread I had knee surgery in July and it took a little longer to recover because I decided to do tank things from boredom instead of taking it easy and slow. The knee is still a little weak and swells on occasion. Now my tank is in place I pretty much forgot about the knee. lolololol. Just be safe man.

Scythanith

11/03/2013, 12:01 AM

This is my second ACL rebuild so I am taking it easy just like the first one. All I can do right now with the tank is read instructions and research some of my water flow problems.

I am on my cryocuff machine as I type this email haahaa!

Thanks for the concern!

Scythanith

11/08/2013, 10:07 PM

First 12 hours of skimmate. The tank has ~190lbs of Walt Smith Fiji Ultra and Pukani. There was very little die off and some fun shapes. So now I am trying to get the Profilux up and running while the rock cures. I am running into issues with network connectivity right off the hop. Crappy.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-rmvJm2r/0/L/i-rmvJm2r-L.jpg

Scythanith

11/09/2013, 11:30 PM

I think I have most of the connectivity bugs worked out. Time to tidy up the cords and start building some shelves for the reactors. I just quickly put up the modules for the profilux to get it all working. Now I will take it apart and put it more intelligent locations.

Cheers,
Scott

Newbie Aquarist

11/10/2013, 03:52 AM

Did you fix the profilux issue yourself or did customer service help? How was the Customer Service?

Scythanith

11/12/2013, 11:30 AM

Another Profilux user helped me out. I didn't get any useful help from the GHL customer service. They just tell you to join up to GHL's www.aquariumcomputer.com and ask there. I won't lie it's been a bit of a challenge to program but I'm getting there with help from friends.

Another thing that sort of rubbed me the wrong way was I ordered the Mitras card when I ordered my Profilux system. I was told the first batch of cards stayed in Germany, so I wasn't going to get mine with the profilux…. ok, fine. I recently asked GHL again if the cards were ready and was told that there was a pre order in October for the cards, and they have since been shipped out I won't be getting one. I guess I was mistaken when I ordered a Mitras wireless card, that I thought I had ordered a card haahaa!

I run an Apple with parallels and windows XP. It does't have LPT/COM ports listed under the device manager so I am working through getting the ports to show up since the Mitras use a COM port to upload the lighting program. I have googled and googled but there doesn't seem to be a straightforward answer. This isn't GHL's issue! This is my issue. I have run GHL's installers but they haven't worked for my situation yet.

ave

11/12/2013, 12:25 PM

good work,:thumbsup:

Newbie Aquarist

11/13/2013, 01:34 AM

adddo

11/13/2013, 05:03 AM

Fantastic build! Ill be coming back for updates! :)

Scythanith

11/15/2013, 08:37 PM

Looks cramped but it's not that bad, lens makes it a little distorted haahaa!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-8tRXXcB/0/L/i-8tRXXcB-L.jpg

Electrics and controls, reactors, wiring, etc. The bottom reactor rack is just temporary. There will be some organization, a drip tray, and the ozone system will be purring when I am done. Also the Tunze ATO will be replaced with the Profilux system once I have time to program it. There will be a custom ~25g ATO reservoir where the 5g pail is sitting as well.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-TH73qVJ/0/L/i-TH73qVJ-L.jpg

Top Sump. I am getting a frag rack built for it and a removable grate where the old glass baffle was. The heater will be moved to a cleaner location as well. I installed a GF check valve on the bottom sump return (locline) so that I didn't siphon out the top sump if the lower pump shuts off. There is also a float valve that will tell the profilux if the top sump isn't draining to the lower sump for some reason (snail in the herbie, etc.). The profilux in turn will shut off the lower sump return pump and send out and alarm.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-ZpV8KL2/0/L/i-ZpV8KL2-L.jpg

Bottom Sump. The ATO wiring is a mess but will cleaned up next time I get back from work. A gate valve is on order to convert the overflow to a herbie to get the noise and bubbles down. I am still waiting for the Abyzz pump for the lower sump but installed an old quite ones just to get the system flowing. Damn it's a loud pump. The left chamber still may be a refugium, but I am also thinking it will make a great water change chamber as well. I haven't decided yet. Small ~5-10g water changes every week sound good to me.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-BFtL3Pc/0/L/i-BFtL3Pc-L.jpg

Close up on the pump controllers. So far I have nothing but praise for the Abyzz A200. It's SILENT. It's a powerhouse. The controller is simple but has a lot of options. So far so good. The RD3 Speedy is doing its thing as well, making lots of bubbles and skimmate.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-nHSD2Fg/0/L/i-nHSD2Fg-L.jpg

Just another view. You can see the VorTech module, Profilux Touch module, humidity/temp probe hanging between the profilux and doser. I am going to put another shelf right about where the touch screen is so I can set the dosing liquids right under the doser. The touch screen will get relocated to the display side of the tank, on the upper right bulkhead.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-5NCTDfW/0/L/i-5NCTDfW-L.jpg

Regrets so far are not enough regular receptacles. Some things don't need to plug into a profilux, like the Mitras, VorTech's. That's 7 plugs right there. I may add another gang box by the lights/vortechs just to feed them on their own. Free up the profilux sockets.

Newbie Aquarist

11/16/2013, 07:41 AM

The room is coming along well.

tassod

11/16/2013, 08:54 AM

Looks awesome, i can only dream for my build to look like this.

.Marshall

11/16/2013, 04:18 PM

Looking great Scott! Must be a PITA to line up those Mp40's off the back glass without being able to look through to the other side!

Scythanith

11/16/2013, 06:00 PM

Looking great Scott! Must be a PITA to line up those Mp40's off the back glass without being able to look through to the other side!

One hand on the wet side, one on the dry and they go together pretty quickly. I'm short so I have to stand on a stool :) Once running I move the wet side a little until I feel the least amount of vibration. I really did debate a removable back panel, but I'd have to move the vortechs every time so I didn't go down that street. I bought some high quality 3M vinyl and used it to black out the back. Damn was that a pain in the butt to deal with by myself! But it's done! I am just looking forward to do my rock work when I get home and moving some fish in! I have aiptaisia anemones in my coral tank so once the fish are out the peppermint shrimp go in to clean it up! Then I will transfer the corals :)

Rogerh

11/17/2013, 08:30 AM

Great build, and I really envy you that fishroom:)

BlakDuc

11/17/2013, 11:09 AM

Amazing tank! I can't wait to see it stocked!

Scythanith

11/17/2013, 07:13 PM

Thanks all. BlacDuc, I like the bike! My old 2006 GSX-R 1000 is still the one I wish I had never sold! Here is my current bike :) Old picture though, I have some nice woodcraft engine protection on it now. Plus less warning stickers :)

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-gn4Dz9p/0/XL/i-gn4Dz9p-XL.jpg

Lilmatty5dimes

11/17/2013, 07:55 PM

Scythanith

11/17/2013, 10:11 PM

Thanks! That's for a different forum though lol!

Scythanith

11/20/2013, 09:31 PM

This is a little off topic but pretty darn cool. I saw some art of animals on dictionary pages a little while back and thought it was awesome. I contacted the artist, Luca Grant and asked him to create some for our basement development. We asked him for a Golden Rhomboid Wrasse, Satanic Leaf-tail Gecko, Zebra Plecostomus, and an Australian Frilled-neck lizard. We just received them and couldn't be happier! You can check out his site here (http://lucasgrant.co.za/page.html).

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-8J2x98G/0/XL/i-8J2x98G-XL.jpg

Scythanith

11/20/2013, 11:02 PM

The artists name is Lucas Grant, not Luca…. I wish the post editing time was longer.

Newbie Aquarist

11/21/2013, 03:10 AM

Those are pretty cool. He does some awesome artwork.

Scythanith

11/21/2013, 08:57 PM

Thanks. That's why I shared them, too cool to hide haahaa! Cheap enough to be a good X-Mas gift for friends.

I am going to work on live rock on Saturday, wish me luck! Any suggestions are welcome. These aren't my pictures but are what I am using for inspiration. I won't have the emarco R400 I was hoping for. Too hard to get in Canada. So I will be doing what I can with putty and I may use threaded rods.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-Nbzz292/0/L/i-Nbzz292-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-5CBRThP/0/L/i-5CBRThP-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-PKJZWFx/0/L/i-PKJZWFx-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-fVrtnZ3/0/L/i-fVrtnZ3-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-VWG2tDW/0/L/i-VWG2tDW-L.jpg

Scythanith

11/27/2013, 11:45 PM

Not the greatest shots but you can get the idea from them :)

There is a valley through the middle of the tank and two dominant structures to either side. The left has a large cave under it and the right has a high arch and a bit of a cove feature. The water will flow in a counter clockwise direction when looking at the tank from the front. High energy from the lower left and top right (moving left). The lower energy will be the lower right hand side of the tank and the sand. I really wanted to add more rock to "join" the structures a little more but I keep telling myself "no, the corals will do that in time!"

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-vMsmmBK/0/XL/i-vMsmmBK-XL.jpg

Left
http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-vGRbvWm/0/XL/i-vGRbvWm-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-z64P3Sm/0/XL/i-z64P3Sm-XL.jpg

Right
http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-VSP9JbX/0/XL/i-VSP9JbX-XL.jpg

From the right viewing pane
http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-tZNNxbJ/0/XL/i-tZNNxbJ-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-zgcV5rw/0/XL/i-zgcV5rw-XL.jpg

leicobra

11/28/2013, 03:18 AM

Looks great!

Sonicboom

11/28/2013, 07:10 AM

Looks fantastic! Very natural and plenty of hiding spots.

Scythanith

11/28/2013, 10:15 PM

Thanks all :)

Scythanith

12/02/2013, 09:43 PM

I am getting some green algae on the glass as well as a little bit of brown algae on the sand so I am cutting the lights. I also have GFO running. I want the biopellets running but the temporary quiet ones pump in the bottom sump doesn't have what it takes to feed the manifold sufficiently. In good news my Mitras wireless card and lower sump Abyzz A200 are on the way!

Nitrates are ~10, phosphates are ~0.1.

Any opinions on keeping the algae at bay?

dave.m

12/03/2013, 12:24 AM

Get your nitrates down, of course. The algae will follow. GAC and water changes, plus vacuum the rocks and sand if there is a lt of detritus.

Dave.M

Scythanith

12/03/2013, 12:55 AM

Thanks Dave! Yep, I know the basics on getting rid of the algae. No detritus to speak of. I siphoned the bottom and rocks after they had cured in tank. I've never started a tank this big, so I didn't know if there were different tactics to control NTS.

I am hoping to get my automatic water changes set up over the xmas holidays. So small, daily changes should bring those numbers down I hope.

Lilmatty5dimes

12/03/2013, 07:03 AM

the aquascaping looks great. cant wait to see it full with coral

MHG

12/04/2013, 01:16 PM

Nice tank. whats with the 4 probed in the sump? From the pic they all look like PG probes...

Scythanith

12/05/2013, 12:49 AM

Nice tank. whats with the 4 probed in the sump? From the pic they all look like PG probes...

Thanks MHG.

They are GHL conductivity, redox, pH, and temperature probes. there is a lot of flow hitting that corner so it seemed like a good place for probes :)

kodez

12/05/2013, 02:08 AM

Wicked setup bro.

Scythanith

12/10/2013, 01:36 AM

Thanks kodez. I am going to grab another mp40 and have two on the left side creating flow across the bottom of the tank from left to right. Then I am hoping by having the three returns on that side all aimed high they will continue moving the flow to the overflow weir. That should get as much of the surface skim as possible to the sump. The other three mp40's will be along the back of the tank pushing to the front.

I am hoping to take some of my corals from the 40g and transfer them to the 270g. I will have to wait and see if the peppermint shrimp have cleaned up my aptasia problem or not. I don't want to willingly add aptasia to my new tank if I can avoid it.

Dave, you mentioned GAC in your last post. In your opinion what does that clean up? I have GFO in place for the phosphates, but decided not to run my biopellet reactor until my A200 for the bottom sump is installed. The Quietones 6000 didn't have the juice to run the reactors and the return tot he top sump. I bet if I had a ball valve on the return to the top sump I could have got the bio pellets churning a little better but that defeats the purpose. The cleaned water needs to get back into the top sump.

Also, I am going to pick up some tumbled marble tiles for frags. A fellow here in Canada uses them across the entire bottom of his tank and it looks rad! I am going to use them in the frag section of my top sump after soaking them to leach out any bad stuff.

I should be home in 10 days and get back to work on the tank when I can around the holidays. Right now my three fish from the 40g are transferred. A yellow tang, royal gramma and long nosed hawkfish. I also added a small clean up crew to start dealing with the small amount of algae that's starting. There are 4 conches, some cowries and some turbo snails. Oh, I also moved my long spine urchin into the 270g as well. Really all there is left to do is move the corals :)

Cheers,
Scott

dave.m

12/10/2013, 06:26 AM

Dave, you mentioned GAC in your last post. In your opinion what does that clean up? I have GFO in place for the phosphates, but decided not to run my biopellet reactor until my A200 for the bottom sump is installed.
When people ask questions like this it makes me cringe as it suggests you have not done any reading on keeping reef tanks and are flying blind. GAC is a chemical filter. It absorbs dissolved pollutants that a protein skimmer doesn't touch. It will remove natural waste products that cause the water to yellow which cuts down on light penetration to your corals. It removes some heavy metals and toxins. It can also remove some medications and additives, but so does protein skimming. The benefits generally outweigh the negatives.

Running GFO and bio pellets at the same time doesn't make much sense to me. Use GFO to get your phosphates under control, then re-use the same reactor for bio pellets later on when your system has a live load.

Some books to get: The Reef Aquarium Vols 1-3 by Delbeek and Sprung. If you want something newer try Mr. Saltwater Tank. I see he has a Xmas sale on his ebooks at the moment. I haven't read his books but his videos seem pretty kosher.

Dave.M

Scythanith

12/11/2013, 12:58 AM

Easy big fella! I have used GAC on most of my tanks. Specifically I was asking why you suggested running it to deal with nitrates and phosphates, which is what I meant to ask with my question directed to you. I hadn't heard of using GAC to control either of those two parameters. I also will have ozone running, which will feed into the GAC reactor. I have read the differing opinions on ozone and it's place in the reef tank and I think it's worth the risk simply based on improved water clarity.

I have specific reactors for specific purposes. Ie. the biopellet reactor is much larger and has a different nozzle in tank to create a vigorous churning of the pellets. The GFO reactor is much smaller.

I own shelves of books, which I have read :) Please don't assume things and we'll get along smashingly :)

dave.m

12/11/2013, 04:21 AM

Sorry, we don't know each other and it's hard to tell where people are coming from with their questions sometimes.

I use ozone but mostly just overnight to keep redox levels up.

Dave.M

Scythanith

12/11/2013, 05:46 AM

We'll be best friends before ya know it…. I'm loveable lol!

What do you think of the new Mindstream Aquarium Monitoring system? If it work's ~75% as good as everyone hopes it will be a windfall for that company! And if it ties into my profilux it will give me some extra piece of mind when I am at work.

dave.m

12/11/2013, 05:47 AM

Oops, sorry, forgot the main point. Just do a Google on "GAC nitrates" and you'll see that GAC is frequently used for removal of nitrites and nitrates from water.

Dave.M

Scythanith

12/11/2013, 09:10 PM

Sweet thanks! I am currently reading up on the fluorescence optical tomography that the Mindstream system utilizes.

Scythanith

12/11/2013, 09:53 PM

Here is a quick break-down on GAC and Nitrates from RC's very own Randy H-F.

"GAC removes organic matter, and anything attached to that matter (like some heavy metals).

Bacteria can also grow on GAC, so when you remove it, you remove whole bacteria, and anything inside of them.

It does not directly remove nitrate or phosphate, but will prevent organic matter that binds to it from breaking down into nitrate or phosphate."

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2005920

The Ohio Department of Health has a small write up on GAC. The phrase that interested me was

"GAC is not effective for removing minerals and salts such as arsenic or nitrates. GAC does not remove microorganisms."

You can find the article here (http://www.odh.ohio.gov/odhprograms/eh/water/privatewatertreatment/GAC.aspx).

Scythanith

12/11/2013, 11:48 PM

You should start a build thread! People like Dave and plenty of others are a plethora of knowledge. I believe it's important to take all of the information into account and form your own ideas based on your personal experimentation and results. There is no one way to make a beautiful reef, the same way there are plenty of apple pie recipes and they all make great pies! That's how I designed my system. I took what I knew worked, and mixed in some new to me elements like LED lighting and bio-pellets.

Rotknee

12/11/2013, 11:49 PM

I just stumbled across your thread and really admire your choices in hardware. From the Abyzz to the Mitras you chose some first class gear. I also want to applaud you on your progress to date. Well done! I am looking forward to watching your progress going forward.

dave.m

12/12/2013, 03:17 AM

What do you think of the new Mindstream Aquarium Monitoring system?
Hi, there seems to be some sort of lag in processing the posts as I did not see yours at the time.

re. Mindstream - As with any new technology I like to wait to see if a). it ever makes it to market, b). if it is UL/CSA approved, and c). does it work well for others. In other words, I don't want have to pay to be the guinea pig on new equipment. And if it doesn't have UL/CSA approval I can't use it for installations at public places like hospitals (fire marshal may tell me to pull it out).

Other than that, wow! It looks like a great idea that could take a lot of the load off my time in testing. Again, my only concern would be that it wants to wirelessly connect to the cloud, which wouldn't be allowed in a hospital.

Dave.M

Scythanith

12/12/2013, 12:14 PM

Thanks Rotknee. You look to be running some nice equipment as well! I want the most reliable equipment I can get my hands on. I am away from home a lot. I haven't even scratched the surface of what I can do with the Profilux yet.

Dave, I didn't know you couldn't use wireless in a hospital! That's unfortunate for the mindstream, especially if they don't have a mini USB port or something similar on it. I agree with everything you said! I will wait a while to see if it's all it's cut out to be. But imagine if all you had to do was swap a reactor disk every couple months?! I would still test randomly with titration kits to back up the readings.

Cheers,
Scott

Scythanith

12/21/2013, 12:25 AM

I got an A200 from Abyzz instead of an A100 since it wasn't ready yet. I pulled the Quietones out and adapted the 1.5" output of the Abyzz to the 1" manifold.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-76XNXBV/0/L/i-76XNXBV-L.jpg

Here is the A200 on the bottom sump.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-Pr92fgq/0/L/i-Pr92fgq-L.jpg

You may have noticed the large white zip ties holding the silicone connectors on to the Abyzz pumps. This is why I took the stainless shell hose clamps off.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-nL8dCcG/0/L/i-nL8dCcG-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-gM8P4h7/0/L/i-gM8P4h7-L.jpg

And my little buddy was hanging around so I had him pose for a couple.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-hpmrFFC/0/L/i-hpmrFFC-L.jpg

I still need to add two more MP40's. I have one running on the 40g coral tank that will be transferred once that tanks shut down.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-tnnkBWc/0/L/i-tnnkBWc-L.jpg

I added some corals. I hope to get some shots this weekend. A nice green/orange scolymia, an aussie pink wall hammer, an aussie orange frogspawn, a nice aussie acan colony, and a small zoa frag.

Cheers,
Scott

Newbie Aquarist

12/22/2013, 06:03 AM

Looks like your little buddy is the perfect reefer.

Scythanith

12/22/2013, 10:24 AM

He is a little more meticulous than I am, must be his Danish ancestry. He has me labelling all of the plugs and controllers today :)

Scythanith

12/22/2013, 09:40 PM

I'm slowly moving the Euphyllia's over to the 270. They look pretty sweet. I am quite excited about it haahaa! They aren't in there final resting places but I just wanted to get them into the tank and see how they opened up and reacted to the flow. So far so good. I may try to get some night pictures tonight.

I also moved my space invader over and am watching it closely!

Rotknee

12/22/2013, 11:40 PM

I have never seen an orange hammer as nice as the one you posted, so I wish you well with the move. Looking forward to the pics once you get them situated in the new tank.

Thanks for posting the pics of the Abyzz clamps. I've often wondered if the clamps were titanium or simple stainless steel. Now I know.

Scythanith

12/22/2013, 11:58 PM

Like I mentioned in the post after that picture, I didn't actual get that exact hammer. I thought that was the one I bought over while texting the store owner but I actually bought a wall hammer that was a little different. Trust me, I am at the top of the list for when he gets another like that in. I also know who bought it and will be pestering them for a frag when it's ready :)

I was surprised the clamps went that quick! They cost a small mint so I am rather unhappy at the state they are in. I'd rather pay for titanium than get over charged for stainless.

Scythanith

12/27/2013, 12:33 AM

Here are a couple quick photos from the holidays :)

Pink with gold base.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-z5Wqj9r/0/XL/i-z5Wqj9r-XL.jpg

Sort of blue with gold base. The blue is getting closer to a true blue everyday.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-JhMVRTB/0/XL/i-JhMVRTB-XL.jpg

Good ol' acans.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-tBtDmnR/0/XL/i-tBtDmnR-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-L7sDVW5/0/XL/i-L7sDVW5-XL.jpg

Golden hammer.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-LZZNT6W/0/XL/i-LZZNT6W-XL.jpg

Scoly.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-rNqc2xZ/0/XL/i-rNqc2xZ-XL.jpg

Scythanith

12/27/2013, 12:39 AM

Just some random shots.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-szzHsFr/0/XL/i-szzHsFr-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-gNGLSps/0/XL/i-gNGLSps-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-pzSGCsr/0/XL/i-pzSGCsr-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-NMF6h9T/0/XL/i-NMF6h9T-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-CfTScJh/0/XL/i-CfTScJh-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-wLL3487/0/XL/i-wLL3487-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-Vht8Pvw/0/XL/i-Vht8Pvw-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-kWGtQ5c/0/XL/i-kWGtQ5c-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-N7z8CGV/0/XL/i-N7z8CGV-XL.jpg

Aleks677

12/28/2013, 11:23 AM

Very well done, excellent work. Signed, will follow the project!
Skimmer I think a little deeply submerged. Maybe pick it up?
It will be possible to obtain higher power pump.

Scythanith

12/30/2013, 02:27 PM

Thanks Aleks. I checked the RE manual and it says 20-25cm of water, with 22cm being ideal. My skimmer is currently sitting in 24cm of water. I could bump it up a couple cm to see if that changes anything :)

Scythanith

12/30/2013, 06:37 PM

Some new corals from a great local boxing day sale and ones I transferred from the 40g. They aren't the best pictures but I wanted to share :)

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-dFDgwVr/0/XL/i-dFDgwVr-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-tTXkQWp/0/XL/i-tTXkQWp-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-M7VqVkB/0/XL/i-M7VqVkB-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-BMhNVd7/0/XL/i-BMhNVd7-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-xh2BxMX/0/XL/i-xh2BxMX-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-HVvSkZ2/0/XL/i-HVvSkZ2-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-W7pN5Lk/0/L/i-W7pN5Lk-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-ksb8m8p/0/XL/i-ksb8m8p-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-nNxwX3J/0/XL/i-nNxwX3J-XL.jpg

Scythanith

12/30/2013, 06:38 PM

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-FhD9gp9/0/XL/i-FhD9gp9-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-TXKbXNT/0/XL/i-TXKbXNT-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-TfTNt6W/0/XL/i-TfTNt6W-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-pDJXXzQ/0/XL/i-pDJXXzQ-XL.jpg

I have high hopes for this one.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-8mr9PfS/0/XL/i-8mr9PfS-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-NCRjsFk/0/XL/i-NCRjsFk-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-4w8KKmh/0/XL/i-4w8KKmh-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-nBtJtTC/0/XL/i-nBtJtTC-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-LrwBk97/0/XL/i-LrwBk97-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-cWTDGKJ/0/XL/i-cWTDGKJ-XL.jpg

Scythanith

12/30/2013, 06:38 PM

Bought this when it was brown. It had a hard time, but now is off the hook!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-sWF7c2H/0/XL/i-sWF7c2H-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-8VPBLQD/0/XL/i-8VPBLQD-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-JV9fzxc/0/XL/i-JV9fzxc-XL.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-vrCd6s2/0/XL/i-vrCd6s2-XL.jpg

Red Fungia sp.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-kn6bN8W/0/XL/i-kn6bN8W-XL.jpg[/QUOTE]

Lilmatty5dimes

12/30/2013, 06:50 PM

nice pieces. pics aren't bad either.

Newbie Aquarist

12/30/2013, 07:52 PM

Someone has a chalice obsession. I agree those hammers are saweeeet.

Rotknee

12/31/2013, 12:43 AM

Hey Scott...I was reading your post(s) above regarding your biopellet reactor and was wondering if you decided to run it now or continue to wait? You sound like you travel as much as I do and I wanted to make a comment regarding biopellet reactors. You have probably read where people vary the amount of pellets and flow to dial in the perfect balance between nutrient reduction and a healthy looking tank.

While I think you have a good bp reactor I would find a way to control the flow through the reactor to avoid having the pellets strip your system of nutrients and crash your tank. With my old reactor, I would notice that my corals were slightly bleached and significantly less colorful when I would return after a two week trip. It's difficult to train the wife and kids to recognize they need to feed a bit more than I scheduled to maintain the overall health of the tank. After trying varying amounts of pellets, adjusting feedings and flow I stumbled upon a reactor that allows independent control of flow through the reactor and the suspension of the pellets. In short, this allowed me to control the process rate and turn down the rate at which the biopellets removed nutrients from the system. Before the new reactor I consistently had zero nitrates and phosphates. What I didn't know was my system was on the edge of being too clean.

Some of the most beautiful tanks here maintain some very low levels of nitrates and phosphates. Now I can make adjustments (admittedly with a lesser degree of trial and error) and keep my tank looking as good as I left it. With solid carbon dosing done the right way you will be able to feed more with less regard to polluting your tank. This simply means you can keep the fishes fat and happy.

Rodney

Scythanith

12/31/2013, 02:40 PM

Aleks677

01/01/2014, 09:59 AM

Beautiful photos. How to deal with a low pH after the installation of the reactor pelets? Any thoughts on this bill?

Rotknee

01/01/2014, 11:22 AM

Thanks for info Rodney. I am currently running my BP reactor and no it doesn't have a recirculating feature. I can control the flow to the reactor with a ball valve on my manifold but if I dial it down too much the pellets don't tumble.

Do you think it can be as simple as ensuring a healthy feeding schedule is adhered to?

With a goal of maintaining a very low level of nutrients and avoiding "the crash" by not allowing levels to rise or fall too low too fast, it is possible to successfully use biopelletes. Remember, liquid carbon dosing preceded biopelletes. Back then we dialed in the optimum doses and adjusted as necessary. Using a reactor that allows you to maintain a good tumble rate and adjust the flow through the reactor is very similar to the fine tuning we used to do when we were liquid carbon dosing. In your case, your ability to adjust or fine tune your nutrient levels can be done with a lot of testing and keeping a good eye on your system. It's worth a try. Just go slow and allow your adjustments to manifest in your system without adding a lot of enzymes you may not need.

Many who started biopelletes where quick to discontinue citing the pellets caused the a nasty outbreak of cyano in their systems. This is partially true as cyano is the result of a bacterial imbalance and not necessarily the biopelletes alone. We had cyano outbreaks well before we had biopellets.:lmao:

All this rambling and I didn't ask (or forgive me if I overlooked it) what type of pellets are you using? I won't get into polymer types for time sakes but all pellets are not equal. Some are better at removing nitrates AND phosphates whereas others primarily impact nitrates alone. Your research will fish out the differences.

Scythanith

01/02/2014, 11:51 AM

I want to say I am using Vertex or ATB pellets. I threw the bag out already so I honestly can't remember.

So I have a question about "the crash". If I started out with BP's from the very beginning then shouldn't the levels in the tank be at where they are going to be? I let the tank stabilize for a couple months before I added the majority of the livestock. I understand what you mean by adjusting the system. The reactor can hold 1.5L of BP's, I only have 500ml in the tank right now.

Cheers

Rotknee

01/02/2014, 06:40 PM

The ATB pellets should work well. The fact that you are starting with 500mls is a good thing. That amount in a system as large as yours will not do anything to harm your system. Starting slow and adding 50mls bi-weekly should allow you do dial in your nutrients the right way.

Nice macro shots! I've been meaning to say that. Oh, that Aprilia is my dream bike. Used to do track days with my R1 in Northern California. I got a chance to ride a Aprilia 250GP bike and it was smoooooth and quick. I had a lot more respect for Aprilia's after that.

Scythanith

01/03/2014, 01:38 PM

Thanks Rodney. I had an '04 R6, then went to an '06 GSX-R 1000, and then finally my '11 RSV4 aprc se. I have been to the track once with the Aprilia, and the electronics take a little getting used to but in the end it was great! I still wish I wouldn't have sold my Suzuki though… that bike was all engine, and it was intoxicating. But, the Aprilia has soul :)

aquaenthusiast

01/05/2014, 11:16 AM

very nice build, love the cabinetry, really caught my eye when everything matches , just so nice.....

I do not have experience with biopellets , but I do have a reactor and from the reading ive done , it seems like if you have too many biopellets it can strip too much nutrients out of the water , but if you have less than you think you should, then this should keep nitrates etc in check from going to high. Your corals and zoas will need some of those amino acids
oh and great pics , esp love the zoas :thumbsup:

Scythanith

01/05/2014, 01:43 PM

Thanks aqua. I agree with what you said. I intentionally started out with a 1/3 of what the reactor could hold for that reason. To not strip too much too quick.

Cabinetry is nice, just not built how we asked. But we are looking to remedy that.

Rotknee

01/05/2014, 03:16 PM

Scott, how difficult was it to fine tune your skimmer? I have one on the way using the same pump and I understand you now fine tune the skimmer by varying the pump output? Not many user reports using Bubble Kings and the RD3 yet. I guess that's a good thing LOL.

Scythanith

01/05/2014, 08:38 PM

Honestly I fine tuned the skimmer with the outflow pipe. I have the pump normally running at 100%. I am still trying to find a happy spot since my tank itself is still immature. I feed the same amount daily so I have been inputing the same nutrients, but I'm sure the live rock, live sand, corals, etc. all vary in their waste production. I will use the 10v control to ramp down the skimmer during feeding, maintenance, and in case of emergency over flowing.

Rotknee

01/06/2014, 01:08 AM

I have been trying to gather some intel on the best practices related to the new skimmers and the RD3 pump. I could find the they were first imported in the last three months and not a lot more. There is a lot of information in the Bubble King forum section of Premium Aquatics but nothing to recent or relevant to the new skimmers and the RD3 pump. I'm sure I'll probably get more detail when the box arrives. Until then I'll keep pocking around the RE website to see what I can learn.

Thanks again Scott!

Oh...I am sure you have seen this. Talking about skimmer overflow device Davy Jones Locker. This thing holds almost 6 liters of fish poo! The good part is that it will connect to your profilux and will shut down the skimmer and send you an email "Scott get your arse back home now"!!! A nice bit of a kit.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v392/shonuff66/th_cs2-blackpearl-locker_lg_zps8017556f.png (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shonuff66/media/cs2-blackpearl-locker_lg_zps8017556f.png.html)

Scythanith

01/06/2014, 11:25 AM

Haahaa I like that and their "swabbie" for the neck cleaning. That is one thing i have found to be an issue on my RE DC250. The neck gets dirty quickly. I assume this means I need to raise my water level a little but it's already high, too much higher and I am inviting constant over flow situations.

Scythanith

01/06/2014, 09:15 PM

Haahaa I like to think of it as job well started… :)

Scythanith

01/08/2014, 08:40 PM

I am having a heck of a time getting my Mitras to play nice with my profilux. Does anyone out there reading this have the new PWC-PLC card installed and running their own light composer project?

I am sitting at:

Profilux Control 6.0.4
Profilux FW 6.0.0.0
Mitras FV 1.15

PWC card set on Channel 11, Address 1
Mitras 1 through 3 set on channel 11, Address 2, 3 & 4.

I can see the light composer project in Profilux control under the illumination header, but it's not sending it to the Mitras for some reason? Any knowledgable help is appreciated!

Scott

Rotknee

01/08/2014, 09:17 PM

Others were reporting issues with Profilux firmware 6.0.0.0. Upgrading to 6.04 (http://forum.aquariumcomputer.com/downloads.php?do=cat&id=16) may solve your issue. I have the new card but haven't installed it yet. I'll do so as soon as my new 3.1N eX comes in. Hopefully I should have it in the next week and then I'll install the card.

Are all of your lights set to "slave" mode? The Profilux will serve as master and control all of your other lamps. I also think the lamps may need to occupy channels 2-5 with channel one reserved for the Profilux as the master.

Scythanith

01/10/2014, 07:54 PM

When I first put the card in one of the Mitras were still on Master, and it resulted in a disco light show. I opened GCC and set the master Mitras to slave. Then I made sure they were all on Channel 11, Addresses 2 to 4. The PLM-PWC card was set to Channel 11, Address 1. No bueno. I couldn't see the "transfer to unit" link on the bottom of the light composer tab. I didn't know there was even supposed to be one there since there is NO documentation to be had. So I upgraded to Profilux Control 6.0.4 successfully. Then attempted to upgrade the Profilux unit to the newest FW and somewhere in the erasing flash stage there was a communication error. I had to abort the FW upgrade. Ever since if I try to click on "system" in Profilux Control it immediately gives me communication error 41 and freezes up.

I had to head back out to work so I pulled the PWC card and set the Mitras back to one master and two slaves and they work fine again. I am assuming I am going to have to perform a forced FW update on the Profilux using the GHL Flash Tool. Hopefully that will solve my issues so I can plug the card back in and get that aspect working.

Scythanith

01/16/2014, 12:54 AM

I am working on ordering some of these (http://www.mikalor.com/data/pdf/pdfingles/1003110449_titanium.pdf) up to replace my zip tie fasteners. I pulled the stainless steel hose clamps that came with my abyzz pumps, as they were corroding. I put two heavy duty zip ties on each end and tightened the hell out of them. But the back pressure on my manifold ended up popping the silicone connector right off of the lower pump. I was lucky that the pump flipped forward and starved itself of water by the intake sucking itself to the glass. I was lucky that in itself didn't crack the glass. Anywho, I put some weight, an old quiet ones pump, on the top of the abyzz to keep it from pressuring out of the silicone connector.

I am hoping the 100% titanium base clamps will do the job. Does anyone else have experience with them?

Cheers,
Scott

Rotknee

01/17/2014, 12:04 AM

Popped off? That's nuts!!! It's also scary to know that the zip ties failed. Hopefully the titanium fasteners work. There seem to be a lot of folks using the Abyzz pumps over at Ultimatereef.com. Hope you are able to find a solution that works for the long term.

Were you able to upgrade your firmware and get everything going with your Profilux?

Scythanith

01/17/2014, 02:13 AM

I was just lucky I was right there when it happened. The split section that it was pumping water into the air it made a hell of a mess! Both floor detectors went off awfully quick haahaa. The zip ties were heavy duty, and both pulled as tight as possible using vice grips. I have high hopes for the titanium clamps. They are $19 a piece before shipping from Spain so I hope they work :) I will wander over there and see what others are doing.

The profilux is a different cat. I haven't been home yet so I can't try the emergency flash tools on the Profilux. I am also being told that the reason I can't see the transfer to Mitras button is due to the fact that I am running windows XP. So now my to do list for when I get home is:

1) Buy a cheap laptop with a newer version of windows to run Profilux Control
2) Use the emergency flash tool to try and fix my profilux. The part that scares me is I have to use a jumper on the circuit board if using USB to perform the flash.

I have $8000 worth of GHL product on my system and haven't been impressed with the customer service from GHL. No it's not their fault I have an older pc and OS, but they could be more helpful. They ask for bunch of info and then this is the response I got from one of the moderators:

"you make it more complicated than it is, it is really straight forward"

It's NOT straight forward. There is no manual for the wireless card. The bit of info that came with it was in German.

I WILL get it working. I WILL get the networking solved. I WILL get the system running how I imagined it could. It's just going to take a bit of work.

dave.m

01/17/2014, 09:05 AM

Is there a version of the software that runs on any flavour of *NIX? That would get you out of the rat race of trying to keep up with consumer OS versions.

Dave.M

Scythanith

01/17/2014, 08:49 PM

I don't know what *NIX is. To the google I go!

After a quick look, no I don't think GHL uses Nix nor can I find anything with GHL and Nix mentioned together.

I guess my issue is that I am not super computer savvy. I can reformat hard drives, install boot camps and OS and all that jazz but when it comes to programming terminology I am blind. The Profilux requires a lot of attention to keep it up to date. GHL is constantly massaging their software and releasing versions of the software. If something goes wrong the first thing they suggest is to upgrade to the most recent versions of the firmware and control software. The upgrade in itself isn't hard, but it is fickle. If anything goes wrong the during the FW upgrade the device will require and emergency flash which requires opening up the case and doing a hard reset with a button on the circuit board and using COMM Ports and flash tools. Not simple stuff. In conclusion the equipment isn't user friendly. It's extremely adaptable, and has near endless possibilities, but doesn't lend itself to plug and play.

I will be upgrading my computer to the newest OS, parallels to version 9, and buy a new copy of windows. Install it all, and the install the profilux programs and try again from the start. It's that or try to upgrade the OS on my old laptop that's plugged into the profilux. After all this I still have to figure out my networking. I may just hire someone to come in and get it running.

dave.m

01/17/2014, 11:38 PM

Sorry, "*NIX" refers to any flavour of the UNIX operating system. It came before either Windows or MAC. If you're not familiar with it don't sweat it.

Dave.M

Scythanith

01/19/2014, 04:47 AM

There ya go talking computer again :)

Scythanith

01/20/2014, 06:33 PM

I got the Profilux working! I cracked the Profilux case open and found that GHL included a jumper on the JP1 post. After using the flash tool and getting the software up and running I got the Mitras sync'd up. Now I just have to tackle all the networking again.

Rotknee

01/20/2014, 10:02 PM

You da man!!!:thumbsup:

I am 100% happy with my Profilux but...when you mentioned it in the same sentence with the word "networking" I'll admit I shed a small tear for you LOL. I shutter only becuase it is so far from my area of expertise and it took me a looooong time to set up. I had a buddy come over who specializes in online banking security and he couldn't figure it out initially.

On another note, I gotta say I really like the RD3 skimmer pump. Got mine last Friday and that thing is super quite and producing a consistent volume of skimmate within the first 24 hours of usage. I am now seriously thinking about getting the RE 50w RD3 return pump. Using the ATB 1800 (Askoll) pump now and getting more vibration than I would like. I can feel it when touching my return plumbing in the tank. My concern is that I would like to use silicone tubing to connect the pump to my plumbing but thinking about what happened to you would end my reefing days if water happened to end up on the floor.

Scythanith

01/20/2014, 11:16 PM

RE has the 80w version coming out as well if it's not out yet already. That way you could dial it down which increases the electrical efficiency. It's supposed to be 0-10V controllable as well. You could have a float valve on the tank or sump that could shut off your return pump in the case of a blocked overflow! That's my goal with my Abyzz setup. I agree, my 50w RD3 skimmer is darn quiet! It's louder than my two 200w Abyzz pumps but it's drawing in air intentionally so I don't think that's a fair comparison on my end.

I have sourced the titanium worm gear hose clamps. They are on there way to my house tomorrow. The unfortunate part is ~$55 per clamp.The benefit, peace of mind :)

I have my friend coming over tomorrow to help me. He is a network programmer for the local library system haahaa! He figures my router assigned a new IP and it threw things for a loop.

Once I get this stuff sorted out I am going to start in on the programmable logic, AWC & ATO settings, etc. Exciting!

sreuland

01/21/2014, 01:18 AM

yeah, it's kinda nuts that at the price level of abyzz a200, it doesn't have some type of flange or union on the input/outputs, it also doesn't have a soft-start option, it just starts immediately at whatever power level you last set it at. Or maybe someone knows how to program a soft start up..? I've had the a200 for couple months, unreal silence with power(20+ feet of head pressure) and Abyzz includes a 10 year warranty. On the clamping to a200, not sure if this is acceptable for you, but could glue a slip adapter that converts metric to standard, then glue a thread adapter into the standard slip side. This requires permanently pvc gluing the adapter onto the pump spigots though, which may not be something you want. Coralvue lists these adapters on their site - http://www.coralvue.com/metric-to-imperial-pvc-adapters. I looked for an adapter with slip metric to our standard MNPT or FNPT but couldn't find anything, that would have been real nice.

Scythanith

01/21/2014, 03:10 PM

Hi sreuland! I have been trying to stay away from glueing directly to the pump. One for noise, two for there is no going back after that haahaa. I will have to look at my pump manuals. I thought there was some sort of a soft start built in but I could definitely be wrong. I already have the titanium hose clamps on their way so I will go with that for now. But it's good to know there is a metric to imperial fitting.

Scythanith

02/01/2014, 11:07 AM

I think we have all the bugs worked out on the profilux networking. We had to go back in to the home router and give the profilux MAC address a dedicated IP address in case there was a power outage. That way when it all booted up again it didn't reassign an IP address that didn't match the dynDNS programming. I also increased my max time out to 10000ms. Now the fun begins and I can start programming all the features that I actually bought the controller for! ATO & AWC, feeding modes, maintenance modes, bla bla bla!

And on top of it all I am seeing great growth in the tank already. my green monti cap has grown ~1" along it's entire growth edge in under 3 months. The sunrise & seasons greetings months are starting to really spread as is the undata. My space invaders pectina is responding well to frequent mysis feedings. Before that it was looking a little iffy.

I still have a algae & cyano issue in the sand but I am not freaking out and just giving the tank time to mature as well as regular water changes. I need to test my RO/DI water to makes sure the resin isn't exhausted already as well. But of course I am out at work again and can't do it for another week. I picked up the new Tropic Marin Bio-actif salt and I am going to give a pail a try. I was a little concerned that the "active carbon source" in the salt, mixed with my BP reactor would create a bloom in the tank but my LFS assured me there wasn't a large amount of the carbon source in the salt. I have only done a 20g wc since getting the pail so I can't really comment on it yet. The first thing I did notice is that the salt was crusty in the pail. I don't know if it was supposed to be like that or if if was a little humid at the factory when packaged?

Cheers!
Scott

Sonicboom

02/01/2014, 11:13 AM

I may be wrong but I think that unless you pay for a static IP from your provider, if you lose power you will have to add the new router IP to dyndns. Everything else behind the router will stay the same

troyholl

02/01/2014, 11:19 AM

Nope. The address you get will stay the same until your service decides to reassign them. Normally it will stay the same for months and then just change on you. Thats why you need the DYN service to pass along the new IP address to your system. Internally your IP address assigned to your devices will change unless you specifically set a device up to maintain its address.

I may be wrong but I think that unless you pay for a static IP from your provider, if you lose power you will have to add the new router IP to dyndns. Everything else behind the router will stay the same

Scythanith

02/01/2014, 02:01 PM

Our router has built in DNS tab that we put my dynDNS account info into. That combined with locking down the internal MAC address of the profilux to an internal IP address has assured us that either a power outage or random reassignment of the external IP address shouldn't alter my ability to connect to the profilux.

So far so good!

But in Sonciboom's defence, there is an option for a static IP address from our provider. Unfortunately it is not available to finer optic users yet so we can't get it. It costs about the same, if not a little more than the dynDNS account.

Sonicboom

02/01/2014, 02:11 PM

Nice, I just received a new fios router as well, need to check that tab out!

Scythanith

02/06/2014, 02:19 PM

.Marshall

02/07/2014, 02:03 PM

I recommend RedCyanoRX

http://www.melevsreef.biz/catalog/blue-life-usa-redcyano-rx

Rotknee

02/08/2014, 06:50 PM

So according to my wife I am having a fairly crappy cyan breakout. I am going to get siphoning when I get home and I will dial back my flow through the GFO to give the Biopellets a little more Phosphates to help consume nitrates. I will likely also hit the tank with some chemipure or red slime remover.

My biggest questions is since the chemipure will hit the bacterial mat (aka cyano), will it not roast my biopellet reactor as well?

Was the cyano as bad as reported? As you know, pinpointing the exact cause of the outbreak is difficult. In order to eliminate your biopellets as the source I would make sure the output of your reactor is pointed directly at the intake of your skimmer and your pellets aren't tumbling excessively fast. You also may want to consider the addition of some probiotics (MB7, Biodigest, etc.,) as they typically work and have multi system benefits. They are also reported to bring a bacterial balance to your system as well.

Scythanith

02/08/2014, 08:27 PM

I don't think it's super bad upon seeing it in person. It's definitely an issue though. I will siphon, and refresh with new saltwater. Then I will go pick up some prodibio product and go that route…. seems the least invasive.

Scythanith

02/09/2014, 02:43 PM

Here are some quick shots. They aren't all corrected, unsharpened, bla bla bla but you get the idea!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-TVXS7xw/0/L/i-TVXS7xw-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-Z95jVXx/0/L/i-Z95jVXx-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-DcZcfSm/0/L/i-DcZcfSm-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-bwrbHLn/0/L/i-bwrbHLn-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-2TxT8jT/0/L/i-2TxT8jT-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-hcJFxS4/0/L/i-hcJFxS4-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-j2WX3hz/0/L/i-j2WX3hz-L.jpg

Here is what came in the mail while I was gone.

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-JBG5mMx/0/L/i-JBG5mMx-L.jpg

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-FmG4R6D/0/L/i-FmG4R6D-L.jpg

Newbie Aquarist

02/09/2014, 05:34 PM

Are those clamps plastic?

Scythanith

02/09/2014, 08:26 PM

They are 100% titanium. They have a bit of a plasticized coating on them. I am being asked wether or not this is cyano or dino's. I think it's cyano but are there any more tell tale signs or give-aways for either or?

The algae itself is reddish to maroon. It's more of a matt, less stringy. It goes away at night and comes back in the day. It's on the rocks and the sand.

Suggestions welcome!

Sonicboom

02/09/2014, 08:33 PM

If you have the option to turn down the red and green on the leds to less than 15% it may help.

Scythanith

02/09/2014, 08:39 PM

I do and I can. I already dialled the 4000K and the 6500K down to 30%. I will do the same with the reds/greens as well.

Scythanith

02/10/2014, 09:07 AM

I just heard back from Mikalor. The black coating on the Ti hose clamps is pure teflon. I am assuming that is safe :)

rygar

02/10/2014, 11:28 AM

Try to skim a little wetter. If your doing bi weekly water changes, do weekly changes and maybe larger ones. I've been thru this battle and it takes time. You could siphon the larger portions out so when it dies, it doesn't pollute the tank even more. Keep the feedings light too. I would stay away from chemicals, but that's just me. Maybe because its just a cover up to the problem. If you fix it naturally, then you know you've solved the issue. So I would keep everything else how you would normally maintain the tank the same...like the lighting type, duration of lighting, and temp. Main thing is you gotta get out whatever is feeding that stuff asap.

If you don't have one already, might be a good idea to get a phosphate reactor. This will help keep phosphates in check...especially if it's leaking from your rocks. But I'm sure you already either have one or are looking into it.

Scythanith

02/10/2014, 01:01 PM

Thanks rygar, I will go adjust the skimmer. I am going to keep everything the same for the most part. I am going to add some prodibio to help with the nutrients though. I have a GFO reactor already rocking :) It's been going since the tank was set up in November. Nothing has changed since I set up the tank so I am thinking it's my RODI system or the rock work leaching. We feed one cube of thawed and rinsed PE Mysis a day. There are 5 fish in the tank (2 helfriches, yellow tang, long nose hawkfish, royal gramma) and they take over a minute to eat the food. There are some larger pieces floating around even 5 minutes after the initial feeding but I don't want to have to start cutting the blocks in half.

.Marshall

02/11/2014, 12:59 PM

Looks like Dinos to me.

Sonicboom

02/11/2014, 01:53 PM

Sounds like you might have to start cutting those blocks in half if there is food still floating after a few minutes. Mine go nuts and try to rip it out of my hand. Also make sure you set the return to feed mode so no food goes in the overflow.

Scythanith

02/11/2014, 07:27 PM

I really want to avoid that haahaa! I'd rather buy more fish :) I have the feed mode 1 on the profilux touch set for the vortechs to go into feed mode. I have not wired the abyzz pumps to the profilux yet. Some of my reasoning is when I do an update or have profilux issue then PAB system sometimes goes down and all the power bars shut off. I don't want my return pumps to arbitrarily shut on and off. So for now they are running on their own power circuit.

After a good heart to heart with my buddy (and LFS owner) he encouraged me to try shutting down the BP reactor and just running GFO, strong skimming, and some regular water changes before getting into the chemical means of clean up. He think that it looks more like diatoms. So far I have been told cyano, dinos, and diatoms haahaa! Either way, they all link back to excess nutrients.

Colby tested for nitrates and they came out 0.2-0.5, and my phosphates came out 0.00 on my Hanna meter. My RODI is reading 21ppm TDS and my tap water is 199ppm TDS before the unit. I know I need to replace my DI resin so I am hoping that cuts the TDS way down. Salinity is on the high side. My test shows 1.027 and Colby saw 1.028 on his unit. I pulled two pails (about 3% of total water volume) of saltwater and put in two pails RODI. I am going to go test after this post.

Rotknee

02/11/2014, 07:30 PM

I think that is Cyano. My sandbed looked just like that last August. I was gone for a month and my RODI went from bad to worse during my absence. I got my phosphates down and got back on a regular maintenance schedule and things were good in about 90 days.

Looking forward to your feedback on the clamps. I probably will get the 80w RD3 and will also need a solution to keep the hose securely in place. I know Royal Exclusiv offers a custom length tube extended the pump output out of the water so you can clamp it down with SS clamps but I'm not sure I will have enough room to make that work. Anyway...let's so those clamps in action!

Scythanith

02/12/2014, 05:06 PM

It's too soon to say much about the clamps. I bought the 50-70mm version and I should have bought the 40-60mm. There is quite the tail hanging off of the clamp when tightened but that's not a big deal really. The worm didn't slip while tightening and the teflon didn't flake off either. It's not the most exciting thing but here is a picture of it in action haahaa!

http://www.lithicimages.com/photos/i-59zThk9/0/L/i-59zThk9-L.jpg

On a side note, did you see RE opened up a state side retail store & warehouse! That's awesome for parts and support. Great move on their part.

I will just keep trucking along with my regular water changes. I dropped the salinity from 1.027 to 1.025-1.026ish. My testing today revealed alk, ca & mg, which I think are good (8.4, 420, 1200). Now just to keep up with it and hopefully the algae goes away :)