PDA

View Full Version : Tunze 6105 clicking on start up


raidendex
04/02/2013, 02:07 PM
Have older and newer models of this. I believe newer one is with a shorter shaft, on start up it makes a fairly loud click making it rather unusable as a wave maker.

From the sound I would guess the impeller briefly moves up and then slams into the black disk making that click. Anything I can do to fix it? I've cleaned both units and there is no calcium build up anywhere at the moment.

Next issue, both do seem to hum quite a bit when working mounted on the front pane of the 120g tank.
All big blue rubber feet are present, one magnet clear bump is missing on one of the pumps and that does make it a bit more audible. But the one with all the bumps/feet still makes quite a bit of noise. Almost getting as loud as my mag7 return pump which I am replacing with Tunze one, hopefully much quieter :)

I don't have experience with any other tunze power heads and these do move a lot of water, but still I would expect something much more quiet.

So - 2011+ version clicks as if impeller hits the black disk on start up, both hum bit too much. Chambers and impeller on inspection are clean and smooth.

rvitko
04/02/2013, 04:12 PM
The only way to gauge the noise with any accuracy is a db meter, with the db pro app for the iPhone a new style 6105 should register 50-54db at full power constant on, no filtering on the meter, an older removable shaft one should be closer to 60-64db. I would get a background reading on the room before you start, the average background noise in most houses is 48-54db so the newer pump will likely be equal to the room noise. If it deviates much from that we should look into, a lot of what people here is pitch or frequency and not the actual volume so it may be quiet but the pitch is disagreeable and that is not really something we can correct.

Common sources of noise are hard surface contact, for example the side of the magnet or clamp is touching the side wall of the tank. The cord resonating against the trim is another cause.

Regarding the click, the disk should look like this after fall 2010, this blue cup under it is what reduces the click by acting like a shock absorber, besides that our 7092 and 7096 further reduce the click by a ease in to start rather than an abrupt jump to full power. The black disk only design is older and will click on wave use for the exact reason you describe.

http://www.tunze.com/details.html?&L=1&C=US&user_tunzeprod_pi1%5Bprodid%5D=3005.740

raidendex
04/02/2013, 04:56 PM
Not too good of quality, so may have to turn up speakers. With rock and sand it may quiet down a bit more I suppose, but even holding power head in hand I feel a lot of vibrations from it, should it be that way?

www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIdDTjgdlNE
Should get few more of them and make a bass melody heh.

raidendex
04/02/2013, 09:27 PM
Well they seem to got a bit quieter now with more water. I did notice something weird just now.

Both power heads are on 7092 wave controller. I have them running at min/max at some longer period say 5 seconds (not really sure hard to say with this thing). After a while newer version of 6105 was still switching high/low. The older version was basically stopped with occasional twitch of the impeller.

I turned everything off, back one - same thing. Took power head apart, nothing stuck, impeller can spin just fine. Turn back one - same thing. Switched wave controller into wave box mode and all of a sudden both power heads started to work. Turned up back to higher delay, all seems fine now.

Any reason for this? All connections were seated all the way etc.

Also wave controller seems weird. Pressing + or - button one at a time doesn't really seem to do much, does it step in 0.01s increments? Pressing and holding does change things but there seem to be about 4 positions that really differ. I guess it's just hard to say without some sort of visual feed back for the current delay. Tiny screen with few numbers would be nice :)

raidendex
04/02/2013, 10:41 PM
Took some pictures on both power heads. Let me know what you think. Click on pictures to see larger images.

Pre 2011
http://reef.verynotgood.info/image/2013/04/03/thumb/img_4795.jpg (http://reef.verynotgood.info/image/2013/04/03/img_4795.jpg)

http://reef.verynotgood.info/image/2013/04/03/thumb/img_4805.jpg (http://reef.verynotgood.info/image/2013/04/03/img_4805.jpg)

http://reef.verynotgood.info/image/2013/04/03/thumb/img_4806.jpg (http://reef.verynotgood.info/image/2013/04/03/img_4806.jpg)

http://reef.verynotgood.info/image/2013/04/03/thumb/img_4812.jpg (http://reef.verynotgood.info/image/2013/04/03/img_4812.jpg)

http://reef.verynotgood.info/image/2013/04/03/thumb/img_4814.jpg (http://reef.verynotgood.info/image/2013/04/03/img_4814.jpg)


Post 2011
http://reef.verynotgood.info/image/2013/04/03/thumb/img_4796.jpg (http://reef.verynotgood.info/image/2013/04/03/img_4796.jpg)

http://reef.verynotgood.info/image/2013/04/03/thumb/img_4808.jpg (http://reef.verynotgood.info/image/2013/04/03/img_4808.jpg)

http://reef.verynotgood.info/image/2013/04/03/thumb/img_4810.jpg (http://reef.verynotgood.info/image/2013/04/03/img_4810.jpg)

http://reef.verynotgood.info/image/2013/04/03/thumb/img_4811.jpg (http://reef.verynotgood.info/image/2013/04/03/img_4811.jpg)

http://reef.verynotgood.info/image/2013/04/03/thumb/img_4813.jpg (http://reef.verynotgood.info/image/2013/04/03/img_4813.jpg)

Thanks

rvitko
04/03/2013, 09:07 AM
The blue cup of the disk is worn on the pre 2011 one and should be replaced.

The noise sounds exactly like what we hear when air is trapped in the pump and this is very likely with the downward angle, if so it could be alleviated by either assembling under water or reducing the downward angle and letting it run for a few days. It is basically a few small bubbles popping around inside the pump.

raidendex
04/03/2013, 10:35 AM
Are those covered by any sort of warranty or do I have to buy it? If not, what is covered?

New to tunze replacements, so not really sure. But for the price of these things would be nice that it would be similar to Hydor Koralia type deal that replaces everything for free :)

Thanks

rvitko
04/03/2013, 10:41 AM
The warranty is two years, it covers defects but not neglect or wear and tear, that part is about $2.50 and that type of wear would generally happen when something fused the disk to the drive unit or the drive unit to the shaft and then it spun and ground through.

raidendex
04/03/2013, 10:46 AM
Do you think I should just replace both impellers with disks etc? I am mainly concerned to not damage the actual housing.

rvitko
04/03/2013, 10:50 AM
I see no reason to do that, the only thing that can damage the housing is a broken or bent shaft so the drive unit can rub the side walls and this would have to be going on for sometime to cause real damage. The only drawback is noise. The other disk has some grooves and the base of the impeller does as well, likely from some sand getting between them, this might result in some noise but I am not sure I would replace them as this will polish out from normal use.

raidendex
04/03/2013, 11:14 AM
3005.740 works for both versions? or is that only for post 2011 one?

Also does the impeller 6105.701 work on both as well. They seem the same from what I can tell in my power heads.

raidendex
04/03/2013, 11:42 AM
Nm, just ordered both sets. Will be spares if anything. 3005.740, 6105.700, 6105.701

Wish I knew about warranty before I bought these used power heads though. Expected things like that to be replaced for free.

rvitko
04/03/2013, 11:47 AM
Both, the part should be identical, only the shaft and lack of blue end bushings changes.