120g Oceanic build

[nly04]

This is my first ever saltwater/reef tank. I been read and ask around for couple months but still learning on how to set up. Anyway, I just want to start this thread so I can share my setup and learn from here. I would like to get more feedback as possible so I can improve. Below is equipment list to start and some equipment that I'm looking for to get (buy/trade).

Tank: 120g (2x2x4) Oceanic Tech Series, black trim, center over flow (4"x16"), Starphire front glass, bought as used. 4 each of 1.75" holes, 2 use as 1" drain and 2 use as 3/4" return.

Stand: home made by 2"x4" wood frame and 3/4" flywood, three doors (front and side). 49" length, 25" depth and 40" tall. Inside paint white and out side is Bombay mahogany stain.

Canopy: 2"x2" wood frame, 3/4" solid wood and wood trim. This Canopy is just to cover the steel rod, to hold power supply and to hold the light. All paint with Bombay mahogany stain.

Sump: Acrylic, made by Kitter, size 36"Lx16"Tx20"D, bought as use together with the DT, 1st compartment is 16"Lx10"Txx20"D for drain and Skimmer, around 3"-4" divider, 10" high for bubble trap and reduce bubble. 8-10" for return pump (Sicce 5.0, 1300GPH). The last compartment is for Refugium around 12"Wx14"Tx20"D, water will be T off from the return pump. Refugium will light up by JBJ nano glo 4 LED light .

Skimmer: Bubble Magus Hero 180S, with Sicce PSK1000 pump.

Light: 2 each of EcoTech Radion G1 (1 with TIR lens).

Circulation pump: 2 Vortech MP40 on each end and 2 Korolia 1150 on the back.

Reactor: BRS dual reactor GFO and Carbon.

[nly04]

I just finish plumping and light set up last night. Tonight, I will pump in tap water and leave it there for two days for tank/sump leakage and pipe plumping test. I have a few questions:

1/ Do I need a cover for the tank to avoid water evaporate? like a sheet of acrylic.

2/ Is Neptune Apex or other branch controller necessary?

3/ Is the dosing is a must or important? if yes, how to set up one?

[geo]

[moved]...

[Sonyardo]

It's looking good ;)

1/ Do I need a cover for the tank to avoid water evaporate? like a sheet of acrylic.
It's best not to enclose the tank as it causes issues with gas exchange and heat. Evaporation is just part of keeping a tank. There are many systems out there to automate the water replacement for evaporation. Usually called ATO or Auto top off systems. You can also just do it manually but that will get old very quickly.

2/ Is Neptune Apex or other branch controller necessary?
No, They are not necessary but they are great tools to help you manage and safeguard your tank. I personally wouldn't want to operate a tank for any length of time without a controller in place.

3/ Is the dosing is a must or important? if yes, how to set up one?
It just depends on your tank and what you are attempting to accomplish. Some tanks require very minimal dosing or none at all, and other require a great deal or elaborate equipment.

[nly04]

Thank you Sonyardo.

Last night when I fill up when tap water for leak test, everything fine except a slow leak at the return line. The leak is between the 1" bulk head (threaded) and the reducer. Anyone out there know how to fix it without take them of apart? is there any liquid, silicon or glue to seal this leak? thank a bunch.

[Sonyardo]

It's best to take it apart and inspect it. If it's cracked or damaged then replace the damaged parts. Otherwise put it back together and use a couple of wraps of teflon tape around the threads to make a better seal.

[nly04]

It's best to take it apart and inspect it. If it's cracked or damaged then replace the damaged parts. Otherwise put it back together and use a couple of wraps of teflon tape around the threads to make a better seal.

I went to OSH and tried to find a solution but end up bought difference reducer and some union valve and elbows, then cut the leak pipe off apart (return line only) and then replace the leak section. So far so good, I will let it run over night and see what happens in the morning.

[nly04]

I just bought some uncured rock and 80 lbs of dry aragonite sand from the lfs today. I did spray tap water and clean those uncured rock thoroughly and let them in a bucket with tap water. Do I need to rinse the dry sand and let it dry under the sun before put in to the tank for start cycle? How to cycle this dry sand and new uncured rock in my new set up?

[nly04]

Can I use those drinking water from the store to mix with salt? Or I have to buy Rodin water from the lfs?

[shiladitya1991]

Everything is looking pretty nice. Really good job for someone doing SW for the first time.

Soaking everything(rocks and aragonite) in RODI is best.

Can I use those drinking water from the store to mix with salt? Or I have to buy Rodin water from the lfs?

RODI is a must (0-5 tds) . It is best if you buy a RODI system, what I hear from my friends who are based in the States is that BRS makes some really nice units and they are very economical.

[cody6766]

I'd recommend a controller of some sort. They're not necessary, but they're cheap insurance. Say your AC goes out and your tank is sitting at home w/o you. The temps will rise and you could come home to a dead tank. The same could be true if a heater gets stuck in the on position. With something like a Reef Keeper Lite (or better), it would have shut the heater off and turned on a fan (assuming you set it up to do so) to keep the tank at a proper temp. I've had a few tanks saved from the odd power loss or AC breakdown. $120 is cheap compared to the time and money involved in restarting a 30-40g tank. It's dirt cheap compared to a fully stocked $120. Also, they can do cool stuff like manage your lighting and other simple tasks. I bought mine for the temp control, though.

A RO/DI unit is almost a must with a tank your size. I found it to be a worthy buy with a much smaller tank. Lugging water from the car gets to be burdensome in a hurry, and you're hosed if the store is close and you're out of top off water. A 75g per day unit isn't all that expensive and can be set up to be easily removed from a faucet, shower head or garden hose faucet if you can't get a permanent place for it. It was another $100 well spent in my reefing experience.

I never soaked any rocks or sand in fresh water. It all went into the tank and was allowed to cycle until it stabilized. It can take several weeks to cycle a tank, and many months for it to actually mature. This is not a step to rush, especially with uncured rock. There is a lot of stuff that will die off and you don't want to go tossing livestock into a tank that is not ready. It will only cost you money and frustration. It sucks looking at an empty tank, but use that time to read the forums, plan your livestock selections and change your aquascape the 50th time. You will do it, we all do. It's easier to do so w/o a tank full of coral.

Everything seems to be coming together nicely. I love your canopy. Take it slow and it will be great in the future

[Ranlexus]

I was just telling someone that this is my next upgrade and bam you got a build .
I will deff be looking out on this and I wish you the best.

[nly04]

quick update on 7/29/13.

Tank filled with water on 7/27/13. I use RO-DI water from Aquaticlife Ro-di delux filter. I got 9ppm from my TDS-3 meter. Since this is new set up so I think 9ppm won't be a problem (hope so). I use Microbe-Lift Pro Reef Salt.

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i76/nly04/20130729_072916.jpg (http://s69.photobucket.com/user/nly04/media/20130729_072916.jpg.html)

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[tylersarah]

Nice setup! Looks familiar to me.

Good job on the stand too!

Building the stand was my favorite part of our tank setup.

[nly04]

Quick update as of 8/17/2013 with lot of pictures. After four weeks since fill up with water. And so far so good. keep my finger cross.
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i76/nly04/20130818_223546.jpg (http://s69.photobucket.com/user/nly04/media/20130818_223546.jpg.html)

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[nly04]

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