Anybody using these quick disconnects?

[brvheart]

These can be found at Home Depot. They're rated at 600V.

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/16/16256cfd-6719-44af-bc00-7efd402d62d4_300.jpg

I'm looking to add disconnects to my 175w MH and LED lighting in my canopy. I bought a bag of the above connectors. They are pretty nice and reasonbly priced. I just wish there was a better way of connecting the wiring, other than the "push in" method. Also wish they had some sort of clip to hold them together.

[Kdawg_69]

all you need to do is get some very small zip ties and wrap it around the ends and then you wont have to worry about them coming apart other than that though i would use them if i had a use for them

[brvheart]

all you need to do is get some very small zip ties and wrap it around the ends and then you wont have to worry about them coming apart
Good point.

A couple other things that come to mind are using male/female 120v standard wall plug cords. That of course would mean more splices and variences in wire, for whatever that's worth. Also, another option seems like it could be the trailer splices you see at auto stores. Again, same drawbacks. Plus with the trailer splice, they are made for 12v application, although the wire gauge seems just as thick if not thicker than any of my lighting wiring.

[slief]

The only thing that would concern me about them would be the amperage that they support. Voltage isn't going to be as important as the amps as that is what will melt connections. As such, I would verify the amperage for the metal halides to the mogul and verify the max amps on that connector. If the connector will support the halide amperage, use some dialectic grease on the male connectors and a zip tie.

[brvheart]

The only thing that would concern me about them would be the amperage that they support. Voltage isn't going to be as important as the amps as that is what will melt connections. As such, I would verify the amperage for the metal halides to the mogul and verify the max amps on that connector. If the connector will support the halide amperage, use some dialectic grease on the male connectors and a zip tie.
Another good point.

Just found their data sheets:
http://www.environmentallights.com/files/documents/102.pdf

Looks like they're 6amp/600v

The ballast I'm using, ARO E-ballast, specs say 1.6 amps. The .pdf states the fittings are used for "non-residential flourescent fixtures". But seems that the power rating will work for my applications.

[hllywd]

I tried them. Pretty clunky for 20AWG.

[brvheart]

Well, I installed these last night. I'm pretty satisfied with them. They feel solid, and are pretty well made. I feel better about my original concerns regarding the push in wire connection and lack of retaining clip or snap. The push in wire connection is very solid. In my previous career I've dealt with a ton of fasteners and connectors, and am usually very leery of them. These may be the best I've used. I pulled back on the wire hard once inserted and they wouldn't budge. They're rated for one time use once you insert a wire. I used 16AWG stranded and 18AWG solid copper wire with these, both work well. I tinned the 16AWG stranded before using. And regarding the lack of retaining clip or snap, I'm not too worried. I was going to use a zip tie as mentioned before, but these are situated so that they're not hanging or anything. So no force is on them and never will be. Overall I would recommend these at $4 for 5 disconnects and readily available locally at Home Depot. My LFS sells similar for $9 each.

I tried them. Pretty clunky for 20AWG.
I'm assuming by "clunky" you mean big and cumbersome? I think the size is perfect. Easy to grab hold of and feels substantial. By the way these aren't even rated for use on 20AWG. Not even 18AWG if it's stranded.

[hllywd]

I'm sorry, I did use 18AWG thermostat wire... yes I mean big in the term clunky, not a very elegant solution, but solid. If you're looking for a disconnect you don't have to look at all the time they're fine.