SPS Targeted Feeding Macro Video Experiment

[biggles]

Some of you might have noticed my sudden macro mania with the iPhone videos and pics lol but i thought since i was filming acro polyps catching and consuming different foods it would be a good excuse to see how polyps react to different food types that i've been adding specifically for the SPS.
I target fed a green acro mysis pulp, cyclop-eeze freeze dried and reef roids so far and witnessed the following.

Mysis pulped into small pieces is readily caught and consumed by the polyps, even large or whole mysis are caught and held for a minute or two until the polyp releases them being unable to fit such large prey in it's mouth i assume. They don't seem to close on a food item and remain closed unless the entire particle will fit inside the closed polyps.

Cyclop-Eeze freeze dried powder soaked in water was caught numerous times by the polyps but released withing 5-10 seconds every time with no attempts to close on the food item even when in a perfect place on the inside surface of the polyp to close and consume the food.

Reef Roids powder was totally ignored by the polyps, i watched many fine particles literally bounce off the polyps with zero reaction at all.

I've set up two acro frags close to the glass in the sump for macro videoing and i'm going to video the frags being target fed these foods again with the pumps off this time and they'll basically be covered with a cloud of the foods to film the individual polyps reaction clearly. I'm beginning to think that these SPS powder foods are not being consumed by the SPS at all but rather turbo charging the micro life which in turn populate the water with microscopic juvenile life the SPS polyps are consuming. No idea really but if the acros don't eat the food i cover them in i think that's pretty conclusive proof that they don't benefit the SPS directly through actual particle capture and digestion.

These are the two test subjects who remained after all the other frags took a big step back........

http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a553/BigglesRC/2_zpsa78b31f1.png~original

The macro videos will be this close so any individual polyp reaction will be recorded easily.

http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a553/BigglesRC/1_zps0585e032.png~original

Hopefully some of you find my 'speriments' of some interest as there's only so much you can learn from :reading: Sometimes you just gotts get down and dirty with your acros to get to the truth.........:p

[Volcano1]

Do you have any Oysterfeast or equavilent down yonder you could try?

[biggles]

Not sure what i can get in Aus, i can get frozen rotifers from the LFS i think but not sure what else they have i can try. I know we have nothing like the range you guys have access to but i just asked the frags and they're game to try anything in the name of reef science.......:)

[kenith]

Subscribed! I can't wait to see the benefits, if any, to each of these foods. I have been doing oyster feats with reef chili and chili. The oyster feast seems to bring the polyps out more

[biggles]

Tonight i decided to try the Cyclop-Eeze freeze dried powder. I don't have access to the frozen product to test.

Blurb from the CYCLOP-EEZE site:

FREEZE-DRIED (LYOPHILIIZED)
CYCLOP-EEZE®
Freeze-Dried CYCLOP-EEZE® are produced from the Deep-Frozen product. The process involves the removal of up to 80% moisture under high vacuum and low temperature. Although freeze-drying is an expensive procedure it assures that important, labile, bio-molecules such as Astaxanthene and Highly Un-saturated Fatty Acids are not degraded.

The Freeze-Dried CYCLOP-EEZE® appear as a brilliant red-orange free flowing powder. The product contains no more than 5% residual moisture and is packaged in vacuum cans or bags.

Freeze-Dried CYCLOP-EEZE® may be used directly as a larval food in aquaculture or as a feed additive
in grow out and maturation diets,
as well as in the aquarium industry. For details of usage see the applications section.


When i test fed the Cyclop-Eeze a few days ago i didn't bother dissolving it as usual but simply dumped a big pinch of it in the sump with the pumps running. I normally dissolve it in water by rubbing a pinch of the powder between my fingers under water so it becomes a fine smoky mist. For this test i rubbed and dissolved the powder in a cup of tank water prior to feeding and turned off all pumps so the food could remain in the vicinity of the polyps rather than being swiftly blown away by water current.
I laid the blue milli frag on it's side so i could have many more polyps in focus with the very limited focal range i have using the iPhone. I lit the frag tank with just cool white LED's when filming and the colors are very accurate.

It's very clear from the video that Cyclop-Eeze powder when dissolved into very fine mist like particles in water gets the Acro Yummy seal of approval. :thumbsup:
I feel the powder at the size it is straight from the can is larger than ideal for SPS polyps and benefits from particle size reduction in water prior to feeding.

t5Dw9eFTtuo

After i turned the pumps back on i noticed that the Cyclop-Eeze also gets the Acro Crab Yummy seal of approval :D I believe it's a Trapezia septata living in piece of blue polyped acro, i normally see this species of commensal crab living in seri's and stylos.

R5SP6iUpilI


Tomorrow i'll feed the same acro Reef-Roids under the same tank conditions and we'll see if the results change as they did with the Cyclop-Eeze freeze dried. I'll repeat the pulverized frozen mysis test after the roids but i already know that food is readily accepted and consumed by acro polyps when reduced to the correct particle size. :)

[Big E]

Cool videos.....I believe Sps are opportunistic feeders and will eat anything they can fit in their mouths. The question is how much is actually being used up, stored or just purged later.

I've always gone by the simple observation the larger the polyp mouth the more they rely on actual food consumption. Looking at an acro and the actual amount of meat/skin they have it's hard to believe they need much.

There's always that fine line between feeding corals for the good and polluting the tank.

[biggles]

I agree with the points you raised Ed, at a hobbyist level this is about as close as i can get to investigating what SPS polyps will actually capture and consume. I don't want any reefers running out polluting their tanks with these foods, i'm just trying to show some simple tests with different foods i've been using in my tank and i have very strict control of my water quality at all times.
It is a very fine line between managing a large amount of food fed daily and the resultant excess nutrients but i firmly believe it is those who sail close to the wind in this regard who experience a saturation in their coral pigments not seen in more starved environments.
I'll try feeding the acros detritus and see if they grab the particles. I've been feeding my tanks with the skimmate paste collected from the skimmer neck for years as the heavy coral feeding results in a lot of food deposited in the skimmer in varying states of decomposition in a very fine particle size and i already know the polyps close on these particles. You may be right in that the polyps might be capturing anything that touches them and later spitting out what they later find unpalatable, i've only watched the acros for about 10 mins after feeding so perhaps i'm missing food rejection - there's only so long i can lay on my stomach on the floor to film this stuff :p

Video stills from another acro fed Cylop-Eeze about 1 min 45 secs from first to last pic, same result as the previous acro in regards to polyps capturing and closing on the food particles.

http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a553/BigglesRC/a_zps00532ffb.png~original

http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a553/BigglesRC/b_zpsdbe32b30.png~original

http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a553/BigglesRC/c_zpse99cde6d.png~original

http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a553/BigglesRC/d_zpsfdb3f4fa.png~original

[jdraider75]

Thanks for taking the time to do this very interesting.

[Big E]

It's all good..........I'm enjoying your photos and pics. I had a few photos of one of my acros catching fish food and it did take it in.

More commonly I see the filaments like your second pic above where they're capturing the finer particles.

[MBMAX]

great pictures... very interesting.

[trueblackpercula]

Hello Big
Outstanding results and I am pleased to say that your videos bring up some great points .Its funny because i target feed my sps tonight with oyster-feast and a pinch of coral v power and they seemed to be very happy after feeding. I am also going to video it with my Iphone 5 and share here for you to see as well this Sunday.
thanks again for all your dedicated work and willingness to share with others.

target feeding is the way to go and the smaller the particles the better they like it. Now if you make a little of this and feed it let me know been dieing to try it......and it needs a little HGH lol

"Pappone"� Recipe Italian Coral Food (Updated 12/20/2006)

Materials:
5 Oysters
5 Mussels
5 Clams
5 Shrimp (NOT cocktail shrimp, the big scampi type w/o the head and the shell)
1 Tablespoon of Sugar
200 mL of RO/DI water
10 g of Red Algae (Palmaria palmata; Bisck uses Julian Sprung's brand)
and/or 10 g of Spirulina, 10 g of Nori (spirulina is what Bisck prefers)

thanks again for sharing
Michael

[biggles]

Thanks guys, as long as a few of you are interested i'll keep feeding the acros all manner of things lol.

Hey Michael, that would be great if you can share a feeding video here, anyone who has a good video or pic of SPS feeding should feel free to join in as the more the merrier as far as i'm concerned. :)
Thanks for sharing that recipe here mate, i'm fairly certain that as long as all that is blended into a paste like consistency the corals will chow down. I need to get one of those kitchen whizzer things to blend my coral foods with so i can give your recipe a try.


Tonight's menu featured Reef-Roids fed under the same pumps off conditions i will use for all the tests.

From Polyp Lab:

Reef-roids™

Although originally engineered for feeding the Goniopora genus, this product has been very well received in the hobby as an excellent food source for all filter feeding corals.

The particle size of Reef-roids is around 150-200 microns. This is an ideal size for Goniopora and other filter feeding corals to feed on. When using Reefroids, you will notice excellent polyp extension on all filter feeding corals. Zoanthids, Mushrooms and Ricordia will demonstrate a distinct feeding response. And with continued use, your filter feeding corals will experience faster growth and better colors.

Reef-roids mixes remarkably well into water and does not float to the surface like most dry coral foods. This ensures a long duration in your water column to minimize food waste.

Ingredients:
Unlike many other "coral foods" on the market, Reef-roids is NOT made with processed fish meals or other ingredients that can rapidly degrade water quality. Reef-roids is a mixture of naturally occurring marine planktons including a specific species of zooplankton that is unique to our product.

Guaranteed Analysis:
Crude Protein 60% min, Crude Lipid 20% min, Ash 6% max, Crude Fiber 8% max, Moisture 6% max, Astaxanthin 150-200 ppm.


I want you to watch the video in HD and you will see something way cooler than the previous food video. After the initial contact with the Reef-Roids the polyps actually splayed open further as if to maximize the particle collection area prior to closing very hungrily on the food. This is the first time i've seen polyps stretch open like this prior to closing on any foods, thought it was very interesting behavior. I think i have to give Reef-Roids the Acro Bloody Yummy seal of approval.

The acro actually had a co-star in this video, let's call him Jerry the pod. He gets a little excited when i drown him in roids lol........ Jerry is currently on his back on the tank bottom and doesn't move except for the occasional burp..............:rolleyes: I should point out i did the test 3 times and it wasn't Jerry making the polyps close, the same reaction occurred without Jerry going nutso.......

rF6XKRCT39E

[ormet]

Awesome!

But....

I think you need to send in some Allied troops to rid the tank of Jerry's and film again!

[biggles]

On watching the video again i have to agree ormet, i think Jerry has contaminated my 'speriment' so i'll redo it without his molestations lol. I might do the mysis pulp as well and then try some of the fish pellets powdered - lots to do.........
I really need to set up a very gentle side current so the food can hit them side on which is more natural along with water movement bringing the food to them. At the moment i'm dumping it on them from above with no water to stimulate whatever might require stimulating........that sounds a bit weird.

[trueblackpercula]

hey guys i came across this video and this is the food I feed my SPS last night mixed with oysterfeast.

I think we are on to something BIG-Gles lol

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwQFokwtyWI

[cugly]

Great vids thanx for sharing

[RFLKPTR]

Thanks for sharing! Excellent.

[franklypre]

pappone is great, been using it for years. You'll notice awesome results using it and/or the Blu Coral Method. If you'll wait until an hour or so after lights out you'll see the true feeding response at a maximum.

[AkaSlyGuy]

Great videos. Can't wait to see more

Joe

[jdraider75]

Wow.

[biggles]

hey guys i came across this video and this is the food I feed my SPS last night mixed with oysterfeast.

I think we are on to something BIG-Gles lol

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwQFokwtyWI

Nice find Michael :thumbsup: I have to say that those bloody fish need slapping about for stealing acro food.........:deadhorse1:

Thanks for the encouraging words guys, appreciate the feedback and the overweight acros said to say thanks :)


Right, tonight i fed a green acro some roids (waste of good food tbh). The polyps reacted positively again and if you watch the polyp circled in red you can clearly see the particle grabbed by the polyp. I think i need to use something gentler than the turkey baster as it's hard not to blast the acro and the polyps seem to react better when not sand blasted with food lol. I can honestly say that from numerous feeds the polyps grab and consume the roids, i have seen no rejection of particles after the polyp closes tightly and upon re opening i've seen the same polyp consume another particle.
I can't of course give any information as to how much nutritional value there is in the food as far as coral colors and growth - what we're all interested in i think. :)

http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a553/BigglesRC/a_zpsd2d0970c.png~original

7Yf2VTA8BRs



Going to try some pulverized frozen mysis now so i'll post a video of how the acros react to that in a couple of hours.

[Bello]

Awesome stuff biggles :thumbsup: love the vids

[biggles]

Hey Bello, nice to see you here buddy :)

I changed my mind and decided to try feeding detritus i sucked up from a corner of the sump just to check if the polyps close on anything that touches them. They don't show any positive reaction at all to the detritus constantly coming into contact with their polyps so i think that's pretty good evidence suggesting that the polyps can and do differentiate between potential food particles and those that are not beneficial to their nutritional requirements.

TStG3yQx2ao

[TankCla]

Very educational!
Keep up the good work! :thumbsup:

[martinphillip03]

Have you considered seeing how Aussie SPS enjoy vegemite?

Marty

[biggles]

Very educational!
Keep up the good work! :thumbsup:

Thanks mate :)

Have you considered seeing how Aussie SPS enjoy vegemite?

Marty

Hahaha that cracked me up Marty :lol2: I should point out that i just went to the kitchen and read the ingredients on my vegemite jar and it says concentrated yeast extract - that sounds a lot like food.........
Btw if vegemite turns out to make SPS glow in the dark with color you may not use it in your tank unless you also eat it on toast for breakfast regularly.......... especially you Marty......:p

Every time i feed the sump during these tests the acro crabs down there come out from the center of the acros and let me get decent pics, a little bonus.

http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a553/BigglesRC/a_zpsb41e4967.png~original

[trueblackpercula]

Have you considered seeing how Aussie SPS enjoy vegemite?

Marty

What is that exactly?

[biggles]

This stuff mate.........

http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a553/BigglesRC/v_zps92aa9ef3.jpg~original

[TankCla]

Have you considered seeing how Aussie SPS enjoy vegemite?

Marty

Biggles, I think he was kidding! I hope he was kidding!

If not, I find it very offensive.

[trueblackpercula]

Biggles, I think he was kidding! I hope he was kidding!

If not, I find it very offensive.

Very funny

[biggles]

Biggles, I think he was kidding! I hope he was kidding!

If not, I find it very offensive.

Hey mate, Marty was kidding as was i when i was talking about feeding the acros vegemite lol. I doubt my SPS would go for something that looks like bearing grease and kinda tastes similar.........:p

[DiscusHeckel]

Subscribed. Very informative. Thanks for sharing your experiments.

I would be very interested to find out if your corals will take and ingest frozen rotifers.

I think wonderful colouration exhibited by your sps corals are as a result of well fed bacteria and amino acids thanks to your heavy feeding. Since I subscribed to your tank thread, I have been feeding my fish heavily with frozen food. As a consequence, polyp expansion has definitely improved and corals' base colours started to darken a bit.

In my opinion, sps corals will need live food, such as rotifers. Even copepods and newly hatched brine shrimp are too big for most sps corals to ingest.

[martinphillip03]

That was my question concerning newly hatched brine shrimp. Would they work?

Marty


[QUOTE=In my opinion, sps corals will need live food, such as rotifers. Even copepods and newly hatched brine shrimp are too big for most sps corals to ingest.[/QUOTE]

[DiscusHeckel]

That was my question concerning newly hatched brine shrimp. Would they work?

Marty

Artemia like copepods are generally a bit too large for most sps corals apart from some of the larger polyped acro's. Rotifers, on the other hand, being a quarter of the size of a newly hatched brine shrimp, are the best sized zooplankton for our corals and are not hard to culture.

[DiscusHeckel]

Shortly after my post above, I dropped a cube of frozen red rotifers in my tank. The lights were off.There was no interest whatsoever from the sps brigade (no extra polyp expansion or mucus). :sad1:

All of my lps corals, on the other hand, showed interest to the food by extending their tentacles. :hmm2:

[trueblackpercula]

Shortly after my post above, I dropped a cube of frozen red rotifers in my tank. The lights were off.There was no interest whatsoever from the sps brigade (no extra polyp expansion or mucus). :sad1:

All of my lps corals, on the other hand, showed interest to the food by extending their tentacles. :hmm2:

CN you try again but this time try target feeding n let us no

[trueblackpercula]

Ok I did my best in capturing the feeding of Coral V Power in the HD Under 20K led lighting with all pumps and power heads off for the recording of this video.

Hope everyone likes it and next week I will Post a Video OF the feeding of Oyster feast to see if there is any difference.

I think target feeding is a much more affective way of adding food to the tank Vrs just dumping food in the tank and hopping that the tiny little polyp catches it. I also think that Sps like different types of food verse thinking they all eat the same food source. ( sure I know I will catch heat for that but its JMO)

Enjoy and let me know what you see

http://youtu.be/QgtzOdnAJq4

[GroktheCube]

Very interesting videos! I'd be curious to see how they respond to some sort of small fish eggs. I've always wondered if the Rod's frozen fish eggs were actually small enough to be edible. My Hydniphora seems to like them, as do all my LPS.

[BryceHS]

Very interesting experiment.

[CT Reefer]

This is truly fascinating - nice piece of work. I have a jar of reef roids I'm going to try a pinch tonight!

Kathy

[yano]

Very interesting post!!!
Biggles, you believe frozen rotifers are a good source of food for SPS corals?... I had the idea that rotifers is a food best suited to LPS by its size.

[trueblackpercula]

Ya no I have a question for everyone.

If one pyolp catches food does that food feed the entire colony or just that one that caught it.

Just a little food for thought lol

[biggles]

Hey everyone, glad to see a bit of interest in the polyp feeding tests. :)

DiscusHeckel after watching numerous trial feeds of the acros under differing flow and lighting i am quite certain now that the majority of the coral foods added under full flow pump conditions are missed by the polyps and are actually 'turbo charging' the biological life in my system as a whole. I have particularly noticed the pod and mysis reaction to feeding Reef-Roids when i was videoing in macro with the pumps off. They would literally stampede towards the front glass where i was dropping the roids down onto acro frags and within 30 seconds i'd have heaps of critters behaving like teenagers at a rave concert lol.
I think both the roids and the cyclop-eeze are tremendous dry foods for boosting the numbers of all manner of micro fauna in reefs right down to the bacteria level as you mentioned. The pulped mysis meat is the only frozen food i use and everything loves that stuff as i'm sure everyone knows.
I think that the use of all fresh LR and building up the feeding slowly has given me a very high performing biological filter which is helped out with a reliable and well performing skimmer.
That's bad news on the rotifers mate, perhaps they're too large. I haven't ever used them so i don't know how large they are but particles about 1/10th the size of a grain of salt or smaller are what i see consumed the most.

Thanks for the video Michael, looks good to me and i want to see your oyster feast test as i don't have access to foods like that unfortunately. I totally agree with your view that the SPS polyps stand a much higher chance of success capturing particles when water flow is zero or minimal but there's no way i'm going to hand feed all my acros every bloody night like that lol..... they have to use their catchers mitts or go hungry. :smokin:

I don't know about the fish eggs but they'd need to be tiny to directly target the SPS polyps mate. If the LPS like them it's highly likely they are too large for what we need, flubber happy - SPS unhappy.......... :reading:

Hey Kathy, if you have the roids you should definitely start using it as i'm sure you'll see benefits to your system overall. Everything appears to like the stuff so you can't really go wrong imo. :thumbsup:
Just be aware that it's highly concentrated so a finger pinch is like a full cube of frozen food as far as i'm concerned so treat any extra additions of roids as you would increasing your fish feeds, don't go crazy too fast as you don't want to overwhelm your filtration. :)

From the sound of things i'm sure you're right yano, it's easy to forget just how small the polyps in my videos actually are due to the macro lens and the small food particles you see them capture are barely visible to the naked eye. They will try to capture things larger than they can handle such as whole mysis but release them withing 20-60 seconds generally. It isn't enough to simply watch the initial polyp reaction to a food type because you may see them closing hungrily in reaction to a food however the vast majority or all of it may subsequently be rejected soon after without directly feeding the coral at all.

I have to say that having spent literally hours laying on the carpet macro videoing what goes on in my reef system it's made me much more aware of the vastness of the microcosm we all have hiding away in our tanks. I think the right foods can make a difference to your colors but it's not just through direct feeding but also providing enough correct food to foster a healthy population of critters that can place food into the water column regularly through their life cycles.

These are just my opinions and i know less than most so feel free to disagree or add to anything i may have raised. Hopefully we can end up with a better idea of what may be the easiest way to accomplish what we all want as saying feed your fish more as i see all the time doesn't seem to yield a wealth of colorful SPS tanks any more than all the other methods we use that seem to also work for some but not the majority. I hope no one takes this the wrong way because i don't mean it badly but overall i think we should be able to see many more cool SPS tanks than we do here as everyone seems to have the right equipment and knowledge to succeed with SPS but so many have a hard time getting the results wanted.
Many of you guys that have stunning SPS systems - (you know who you are or should), achieve results in many different ways using vastly different husbandry techniques so there must be common factors giving you results as we all know how selective and finicky SPS are when it comes to changes. Whatever they need in the ocean to thrive must be the same thing that they're getting in the awesome systems some of the RC guys here have.
If i can put a fresh wild acro in my tank and 2 weeks later it's vibrantly colored, has great PE and is growing/encrusting then surely that means the acro basically doesn't know it's been yanked form the ocean it was in........:reading:

That should put most of you to sleep before you finish reading it all lol......

[FAITOJAN]

I USED DR GS SPS MAX the sps reaction is very impresive .

[CT Reefer]

"That should put most of you to sleep before you finish reading it all lol...... "

..not at all. This is one of the more valuable threads on RC. We all want healthy, happy great looking SPS. The info you've provided gives us a chance to try it out in our tanks with a degree of confidence that we're feeding something beside the skimmer! ;)

Kathy

[CarlosF]

Amazing seeing how sps react to different foods, awsm study

[bdsage]

hey biggles been following along...just how have you been ''pulping'' the mysis...? blender?

[cFloor]

following along, this is a great thread! Your effort here is much appreciated

[biggles]

Thanks for the positive feedback my friends :)

I haven't heard of DR GS SPS MAX but i'll definitely look into it, like most things it's probably not able to be imported into Aus....... customs suck :(
I've been using a plastic paint scraper to squish the mysis on a plate repeatedly until it's a goopy mess but a kitchen whizzer thingy would work way better - gotta get one still.

Here's the tank this morning at 9 months with nothing but wild collected SPS which i began adding at the 1 month mark. Nothing has failed to exhibit good coloration or growth overall and even though the tank is young i think you'd be hard pressed to say my feeding has not been effective on the health of the corals. We just need to work out the best way to keep our corals colorful with the least hazardous nutrient addition method so more reefers are rewarded for all the time and effort they put into their systems i think.
I'll check out what new foods i can try on the acros this weekend when i go to my LFS for an acro hit....... :)

http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a553/BigglesRC/9monthfts_zps98aff655.png~original

[trueblackpercula]

Outstanding and I wish we didn't live so far apart as I would love to this in person. Here is the information on the first food that I tried.
http://************.com/2012/04/23/coral-vpower-coralenergizer-coral-foods-preis-aquaristik/

[CT Reefer]

Biggles...that is gorgeous. You are so blessed to live in Australia. I am a diver and would kill to see those specimens in their native habitat!

[AkaSlyGuy]

Very VERY nice looking corals. I have got to start squishing up some mysis shrimp :hammer: Just curious how much squished up mysis it takes to feed a tank like that?

Joe

[Chriskid]

in the summertime we catch flatfish here. one day they were all full of eggs. , I witnessed encrusting Montipora eating the eggs. have you ever tried a local fish eggs biggles

[biggles]

Outstanding and I wish we didn't live so far apart as I would love to this in person. Here is the information on the first food that I tried.
http://************.com/2012/04/23/coral-vpower-coralenergizer-coral-foods-preis-aquaristik/

Hey mate, i had a look online and as usual i can't get that bloody food here :(

Biggles...that is gorgeous. You are so blessed to live in Australia. I am a diver and would kill to see those specimens in their native habitat!

Hi Kathy, i am lucky to be so close to the GBR and all the reefer friends i've had who have gone diving on the reefs have returned gibbering idiots when they try to describe the amazing corals and colors they saw lol.......

Very VERY nice looking corals. I have got to start squishing up some mysis shrimp :hammer: Just curious how much squished up mysis it takes to feed a tank like that?

Joe

Hey Joe, i squish a whole cube of mysis and feed it to the tank every second night now since adding more fish as i give those stupid pooping things a block unsquished on the other day - what a waste of good coral food lol.......

in the summertime we catch flatfish here. one day they were all full of eggs. , I witnessed encrusting Montipora eating the eggs. have you ever tried a local fish eggs biggles

I haven't tried fish eggs as yet mate but since you described the reaction you saw i'm definitely going to source some. :) How big would you say the eggs were that you saw the polyps reacting to as everything i've seen looks way too big to be ingested - i can always squish them like i do to the mysis i guess, i need a kitchen whizzer thing as all this squishing is getting to be like work and we don't want that......... :thumbsup:

[Chriskid]

well our flounder egg were small, like oyster eggs, yet orange. i checked every fish we caught this year , and to no avail. im going to try store bought fish roe soon.

[trueblackpercula]

well our flounder egg were small, like oyster eggs, yet orange. i checked every fish we caught this year , and to no avail. im going to try store bought fish roe soon.

Ther is always the fish eggs they sell fior sushi lol

[trueblackpercula]

I conducted another test this weekend with oyster feast I will post a video later tonight. It's interesting to see the reaction of the Sps.

[DiscusHeckel]

I conducted another test this weekend with oyster feast I will post a video later tonight. It's interesting to see the reaction of the Sps.

I used to use Reef Nutrition's Oyster eggs. My sps corals went mad as soon as I put some in my tank. We cannot get this product in the UK anymore due to some EU regulations.

[trueblackpercula]

ok here is the video I shot with my Iphone 5 this Sunday 09292013 let me know what you think vrs my first post with coral v power . Also is there another food source that i should try next let me know.

enjoy

http://youtu.be/XXrzj-8CaXw

[stickleback]

Also is there another food source that i should try next let me know.

http://youtu.be/XXrzj-8CaXw

How about some fish poo:hmm6: That would be interesting!

[trueblackpercula]

It would be very difficult for me to collect that as I only have two fish. Also that would be a very interesting study as so many people around here advise people to feed there fish more and there sps will color up because of fish waste.

Anyone else have a another source I should try?

[trueblackpercula]

Ok here is another video from today that I used cyclopezee. again i target feed the same SPS at about the same time and the reaction was not what I expected. as of today i have conducted three test and have found that Coral V power has given the best reaction but I don't know if the SPS will benefit from it only time will tell. Also I will try mysis shrimp and flack food then pellet food.
so even though i have a few more food sources does anyone else have anything to share?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pK0wpsD-Nc8&feature=youtu.be

Michael

[Ptyochromis]

Would it be possible to test a control? Like try feeding it very fine sand or something.


Also, would you be willing to try feeding d'capped brine shrimp eggs?

[trueblackpercula]

Brine shrimp eggs the have been decapsulated now that's thinking outside the box. Sand does not have any nutritional value but I will try it if you like.

[Ptyochromis]

That would be awesome. Do you need me to send you d'capped eggs?

Edit: Think it would also be possible to try flake?

[trueblackpercula]

Here is another installment of feeding Sps using Mysis shrimp. I was taken back by the results on this one. it was almost immediate results not only by the one that I feed but others in the tank went crazy once it started to travel through the water column. I never seen my SSC open its feeder polyps like it did. I will have to take a picture of it next time as it was simply mind blowing. Another thing to add is that even though i got great results from this source of food i have no idea if it has any nutritional value.

Enjoy the video >>> http://youtu.be/HCflGDaTP4k

[bridun22ajl]

Great thread

[Ptyochromis]

Here is another installment of feeding Sps using Mysis shrimp. I was taken back by the results on this one. it was almost immediate results not only by the one that I feed but others in the tank went crazy once it started to travel through the water column. I never seen my SSC open its feeder polyps like it did. I will have to take a picture of it next time as it was simply mind blowing. Another thing to add is that even though i got great results from this source of food i have no idea if it has any nutritional value.

Enjoy the video >>> http://youtu.be/HCflGDaTP4k

Cool, but it looks like you scared some of the polyps in by hitting them with the fresh water. Try putting the food in tank water to avoid this.

I do like this video, it demonstrates that just because a polyp catches something doesn't mean they will eat it (the polyp will release it once it realizes the prey too big to fit into its mouth).

[tombone86]

that's really cool. such detail on the video how often do you feed your corals?

[trueblackpercula]

that's really cool. such detail on the video how often do you feed your corals?

I feed once a week but Others feed there Sps a few times a week and some even feed multiple times a day.
Hope that helps

[trueblackpercula]

Cool, but it looks like you scared some of the polyps in by hitting them with the fresh water. Try putting the food in tank water to avoid this.

I do like this video, it demonstrates that just because a polyp catches something doesn't mean they will eat it (the polyp will release it once it realizes the prey too big to fit into its mouth).

Great observation as I over looked that. My next feeding will be with flake food and I will soak it in tank water first. I will say that when I feed my fish sometimes the Sps catch some and I can see them catch it. Again I don't no if the get to eat some before they let go and again my all time question. If a single pyolp catches a food source does it feed the entire colony or just itself???

Stay tuned next weeks feedin will be flake food.

[Coral Head]

Great observation as I over looked that. My next feeding will be with flake food and I will soak it in tank water first. I will say that when I feed my fish sometimes the Sps catch some and I can see them catch it. Again I don't no if the get to eat some before they let go and again my all time question. If a single pyolp catches a food source does it feed the entire colony or just itself???

Stay tuned next weeks feedin will be flake food.

My understanding is the polyp feeds only itself.

[trueblackpercula]

My understanding is the polyp feeds only itself.

Do you have any scientific papers or a gut analysis you could share ?

[Ptyochromis]

Do you have any scientific papers or a gut analysis you could share ?

Each polyp is an individual, the only thing that is shared between polyps is a nerve network that runs across the surface tissue of the colony.
They are really no different than other cnidarians. Think of a polyp as an anemonewith a house and many close neighbors.

Basic anatomy (http://krupp.wcc.hawaii.edu/BIOL200/powerpnt/corlanat/img005.jpg)

I don't think you are going to find any gut analysis of polyps, especially when you consider rate of digestion and prey size.

[trueblackpercula]

Each polyp is an individual, the only thing that is shared between polyps is a nerve network that runs across the surface tissue of the colony.
They are really no different than other cnidarians. Think of a polyp as an anemonewith a house and many close neighbors.

Basic anatomy (http://krupp.wcc.hawaii.edu/BIOL200/powerpnt/corlanat/img005.jpg)

I don't think you are going to find any gut analysis of polyps, especially when you consider rate of digestion and prey size.

Again thank you for the information as it brings up a few concerns.
1) if feeding the colony is only going to help only the ones that catch the pray will that single pyolp live and the rest die if they are unable to feed?
2) how does feeding the Sps enhance there color or maybe it doesn't at all
3) If I target feed one single pyolp every day will it grow larger then the rest? Think this will be a good experiment to try.
4) does feeding you entire tank help if only a few will catch the prey
5) now is the big question when acropora a spawn the eggs are released from multiple pyolps that are deep withing the coral skeleton so is the the nerve they share?

This is very interesting and almost makes me feel that feeding does not do much for the entire colony. Or does the corals when they extend it's feeder pyolps intakes water filters it and anything that is useful feeds the pyolps and that's how the feed? This is extremely interesting and needs to be researched more by myself to better understand how survive.

Many thanks for putting me in a new direction of keeping Sps.

Michael

[Ptyochromis]

Again thank you for the information as it brings up a few concerns.
1) if feeding the colony is only going to help only the ones that catch the pray will that single pyolp live and the rest die if they are unable to feed?
2) how does feeding the Sps enhance there color or maybe it doesn't at all
3) If I target feed one single pyolp every day will it grow larger then the rest? Think this will be a good experiment to try.
4) does feeding you entire tank help if only a few will catch the prey
5) now is the big question when acropora a spawn the eggs are released from multiple pyolps that are deep withing the coral skeleton so is the the nerve they share?

This is very interesting and almost makes me feel that feeding does not do much for the entire colony. Or does the corals when they extend it's feeder pyolps intakes water filters it and anything that is useful feeds the pyolps and that's how the feed? This is extremely interesting and needs to be researched more by myself to better understand how survive.

Many thanks for putting me in a new direction of keeping Sps.

Michael

The shared nerve network runs across the surface of the coral (it's the 'skin' of the coral) called the coenosarc. This is why when you scare one polyp you scare all the surrounding polyps as well.

IDK where the egg comes from; buy my guess is that it comes from somewhere near the bottom of the polyp (under the gastrovascular cavity). All the polyps are on the surface of the coral, not much goes on inside the skeleton (except for the constant precipitation and excreting of calcium carbonate). As far as I know, it's used only for support of the colony.

No such thing as feeder polyps. A polyp is a polyp. They feed the same way that anemones do. They catch food with their tentacles, it is stung and held with nematocysts (stinging cells) and brought to the oral disc (mouth) and digested in the gut (gastrovascular cavity). The waste is excreted out of the sides of the coral. Some of the wastes are also used by the Symbiodinium (the symbiotic dinoflagellates ).

Something like 70-95% of the energy corals use is provided by Symbiodinium. Feeding can increase growth and color of corals.

Edit: the only corals I have ever seen die from not being fed are non photosynthetic corals (azooxanthella).

[trueblackpercula]

No such thing as feeder polyps. A polyp is a polyp. They feed the same way that anemones do. They catch food with their tentacles, it is stung and held with nematocysts (stinging cells) and brought to the oral disc (mouth) and digested in the gut (gastrovascular cavity). The waste is excreted out of the sides of the coral. Some of the wastes are also used by the Symbiodinium (the symbiotic dinoflagellates )
Well I am not scientific at all and just a average hobbyist trying to better understand what is going on, But as you can see from the picture below there are what I call feeder polyps that mostly come out at night.

Also as you can see from the picture I took this morning they have only 6 tentacles and appear to be smooth shaped and longer compared to the smaller ones that are open all day and night.

Feeding can increase growth and color of corals.
Now this statement has me completely baffled as it contradicts all the rest of your statements. how does feeding help acropora grow if its the calcium in the water that they use to crate skeletal growth? How is it, if it is an independent polyp from the rest and that one polyp is the only one catching food will it color up the rest of the coral? I total disagree and truly believe that the food is shared by the entire colony and this is what give the coral color on a whole. if not the single polyp would be larder then the rest and it would be the only one with color as well.

Looking forward to this debate

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=213&pictureid=57079

[Ptyochromis]

Well I am not scientific at all and just a average hobbyist trying to better understand what is going on, But as you can see from the picture below there are what I call feeder polyps that mostly come out at night.

Also as you can see from the picture I took this morning they have only 6 tentacles and appear to be smooth shaped and longer compared to the smaller ones that are open all day and night.


Now this statement has me completely baffled as it contradicts all the rest of your statements. how does feeding help acropora grow if its the calcium in the water that they use to crate skeletal growth? How is it, if it is an independent polyp from the rest and that one polyp is the only one catching food will it color up the rest of the coral? I total disagree and truly believe that the food is shared by the entire colony and this is what give the coral color on a whole. if not the single polyp would be larder then the rest and it would be the only one with color as well.

Looking forward to this debate

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=213&pictureid=57079

Each polyp precipitates calcium carbonate to grow. Precipitating CaCO3 requires energy, feeding polyps gives them additional energy ∴ they can precipitate more CaCO3.

You can believe whatever you want about corals and food. The fact of the matter is that each polyp is an individual living in a community of clones. There is some research that points to Parerythropodium fulvum sharing symbiotes. This could explain why you see a change in the entire colony with feeding. But I would ask is a single polyp only being fed, do the other polyps ever catch any food?
I have witnessed (in all of my corals who's polyps are easily visible), that they actually compete for food rather aggressively. Mysis shirmp being consumed (and nearly ripped in half) by two different polyps of the same colony; eventually a single polyp will previal, sometimes even pulling the shirmp from the mouth of the other.

Edit: about your picture; I think that's a poor example. We know that the growth tips of corals are frequently a different color than the rest of the colony.

[trueblackpercula]

You can believe whatever you want about corals and food.


Hello PTY,

Don't take the below the wrong way as I am just trying to learn a better way to keep SPS and feeding at night may be the answer some including myself are looking for. < Based on the pictures below and what i hope to be true :)

Its not what I believe to be true/ false just trying to explain get answers to what is actually going on with my SPS at night or when the lights go out. So there is more going on here then one probably knows about. Just want to mention that I conducted a test by shutting of the light fixture at 12:00 pm and the feeder polyps came out ( 30 to 45 minutes later so I assume they are not Photosynthetic but rather opportunistic feeders or filter feeders supplying food to the entire colony. < Just my theory

I would really like some clarification and what they are and what they do. I will conduct another feeding sample using tank water this time to see if these feeder polyps will actually catch food. This time I will use mysis shrimp whole to see what happens. ( Video will be posted here on Sunday night)

So here is my assumption of what could be going on, the SPS identifies by light intensity that it is night fall and therefore extends its night time feeder polyps to catch pray that may pass by or maybe it is a way the coral extends it larger feeder polyp that is what I call them for now that just does that, intakes water for the entire colony that is used to feed or fuel the colony and filters any valuable nutrients from it to maintain its health. From this comes nutrition that turns into health,color, growth ETC.

The fact of the matter is that each polyp is an individual living in a community of clones. There is some research that points to Parerythropodium fulvum sharing symbiotes. This could explain why you see a change in the entire colony with feeding. But I would ask is a single polyp only being fed, do the other polyps ever catch any food?
I have witnessed (in all of my corals who's polyps are easily visible), that they actually compete for food rather aggressively. Mysis shirmp being consumed (and nearly ripped in half) by two different polyps of the same colony; eventually a single polyp will previal, sometimes even pulling the shirmp from the mouth of the other.

They do compete and rightfully so as they don't no when the next free floating food source will come by.

Edit: about your picture; I think that's a poor example. We know that the growth tips of corals are frequently a different color than the rest of the colony.

Ok here is another example (hope it is not another "poor example") of what I was talking about were the polyps are very much different and the same color as the rest. <Taken this morning at 6:00am

In my tank these feeder polyps that I call them a much larger and have a smooth appearance and only come out at night.

Also note that the growth tips are all the same color. So can you please elaborate on the ones that are circled in red as they are clearly different in shape size texture but have the same color as the rest.

Michael
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=213&pictureid=57164

[Ptyochromis]

There is no such thing as feeder polyps. On a single colony, all the polyps are the same. They are all clones. The polyps that you see eating are the same polyps that comprise the entire coral.

What you are seeing at night is just the polyps extending further out to hunt. Most coral polyps extend at night because this is when zooplankton is most abundant. Zooplankton rise from the depths at night, to feed on plankton.

The polyps do swell with water when they extend to feed but this doesn't provide any nutrition. Just as breathing air and huffing up your chest doesn't provide you with any extra food


Also note that the growth tips are all the same color. So can you please elaborate on the ones that are circled in red as they are clearly different in shape size texture but have the same color as the rest.

For reasons I do not know; the growing areas of coral are a different color than the rest of the colony (white and blue are common). The polyps pictured have a different appearance because they are extended further (due to various environmental factors). When extended they have swelled with water. This could lead to a slightly different texture than the rest, just like a deflated balloon looks different than a full balloon.

[trueblackpercula]

There is no such thing as feeder polyps. On a single colony, all the polyps are the same. They are all clones. The polyps that you see eating are the same polyps that comprise the entire coral.

What you are seeing at night is just the polyps extending further out to hunt. Most coral polyps extend at night because this is when zooplankton is most abundant. Zooplankton rise from the depths at night, to feed on plankton.

The polyps do swell with water when they extend to feed but this doesn't provide any nutrition. Just as breathing air and huffing up your chest doesn't provide you with any extra food



For reasons I do not know; the growing areas of coral are a different color than the rest of the colony (white and blue are common). The polyps pictured have a different appearance because they are extended further (due to various environmental factors). When extended they have swelled with water. This could lead to a slightly different texture than the rest, just like a deflated balloon looks different than a full balloon.

I think we are both describing different things here. But what I am asking is why do the ones circled in both pictures have less tenticales then the smaller ones? There is clearly a different in the count all the ones circuled have 6 and all the ones not have 12 in both pictures.

[Allmost]

how about sources guys .... references.

[trueblackpercula]

how about sources guys .... references.

I wish I could find something this is why I brought up the questions. I think there is a difference and I am sure there is I am just not scintific about it. Hey I provided pictures and videos like others just trying to better understand what feeding will or will not do. Maybe Sps only really eat solids at night I don't know and feed on light during the day.

Just trying to learn all I can

[Allmost]

yea its a great thread, and thank you for sharing :)

it would have been even more awesome if the facts presented were backed up by something we could read. but i dont think there is much out there in terms of research.

in this article it talks about corals eating during the day as well :
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/12/corals2


if anyone has interesting articles, or papers, experiments done in labratories ... share it with us ... you can use google scholar access the scientific databases ... and if the articles seem interesting, send me link and I can get the full article ...

I have a bunch ... different corals ... ill try to make a post including them all tonight when I get home. but not much new info on them .. mostly from many years back.

[trueblackpercula]

Found this hope it's ok with the mods freaking amazing

http://www.coralscience.org/main/articles/nutrition-6/how-corals-feed

[trueblackpercula]

Corals have developed several unique ways of feeding; they receive nutrients from symbiotic algae, capture particles such as plankton, and take up dissolved substances from the water. A proper understanding of these processes contributes to successful coral husbandry practices.

Corals are fascinating animals; although their morphology appears simple, these ancient organisms are highly complex. This also holds true for the way they feed; over the last decades, scientists have unraveled much about coral diets. Although many species harbour symbiotic algae which provide them with energy, corals also need building blocks to grow. A common saying amongst scientists states that "fed corals are happy corals". According to latest insights, this philosophy appears to be right on the money.

Figure 1: A Stylophora pistillata colony catching Artemia nauplii (photograph: Jean-Louis Teyssié, IAEA Monaco).

This review will discuss major coral nutrient sources, and their crucial roles in the existence of these marine invertebrates.

"A common saying amongst scientists states that ‘fed corals are happy corals’. According to latest insights, this philosophy appears to be right on the money."

Autotrophy and heterotrophy

Life on earth is always classified into systematic groups by biologists, on the basis of external appearance (e.g. birds and mammals), behaviour (diurnal or nocturnal) or the characteristics of living cells (e.g. plant- or animal cells). A fourth means of distinction is metabolism, which can be autotrophic or heterotrophic. These terms are commonly used in marine biology, especially when regarding bacteria. Autotrophy means that organisms use inorganic molecules (such as CO2 and bicarbonate) to build organic ones, such as carbohydrates. Examples are plants, which convert CO2 into carbohydrates by using sun's energy, or sulphur bacteria, which utilize the chemical energy stored in sulphur to convert CO2 to organics. For plants, we call this photoautotrophy (photo: light, auto: self and trophy: feeding) and for bacteria, in this case, we call this chemoautotrophy (chemo: chemical reaction). Another term for photoautotrophy is photosynthesis, another word for chemoautotrophy is chemosynthesis. Autotrophic organisms are also called primary producers, as they are the first link in the food chain which leads to biomass production from inorganic molecules.

Heterotrophy means that organisms make direct use of organic molecules, which are either present in the environment, or have been produced by autotrophic organisms. The consumption of plants by snails or cows is a form of heterotrophic feeding. From CO2, carbohydrates have been formed by using sunlight, which the plants have converted into biomass; this is subsequently consumed and converted into animal biomass.

"Autotrophic organisms are also called primary producers, as they are the first link in the food chain which leads to biomass production from inorganic molecules."

[trueblackpercula]

Corals; both autotrophic and heterotrophic?

Corals are somewhat more complex in this respect; the animals themselves are heterotrophic and consume plankton and dissolved molecules. Next to this, many species receive photosynthates from symbiotic algae, which are commonly called zooxanthellae. These photosynthates are produced by means of photosynthesis, and comprise sugars, fatty acids, glycerol and amino acids. Although corals themselves are heterotrophic just like all other animals, both hetero- and autotrophic processes take place inside their tissues (excluding corals which lack zooxanthellae). Corals are often considered as being either autotrophic or heterotrophic. They are probably best viewed as polytrophic, using both ingested and translocated carbon as energy sources.

Energy and building blocks

The photosynthates which zooxanthellae provide their hosts with can deliver up to 100% of the daily required energy budget for corals1,2,3. These are often deficient in nitrogen and phosphorus, and are thought to be mainly used as fuel for respiration and mucus secretion, rather than being assimilated into biomass1,5. Zooxanthellae transfer glucose, glycerol, fatty acids, triglycerids and even amino acids to their hosts; these compounds are quickly metabolized or built into coral tissue. A part of the energy gained from photosynthesis is also utilized to continuously translocate calcium- and bicarbonate ions to the calicoblastic layer, thereby creating a skeleton (see the coral science archive for more information). The skeleton mainly serves as a refuge to hide from potential predators, and as a means to attach the coral onto a substrate. Unfortunately, photosynthates alone are not sufficient to build animal tissue2,4-9. These elements are ingested by corals by removing particulate organic matter (plankton, detritus) from the water, and by absorbing dissolved molecules. Heterotrophy is essential for all corals and can meet up to 100% of the daily required energy in corals which are bleached or inhabit deep or turbid waters1,12-18. Moreover, for azooxanthellate corals such as Dendronephthya sp. (a genus of soft corals) or Tubastrea sp. (a genus of stony corals), heterotrophy is the only means of nutrition. Recent findings indicate that the interaction between auto- and heterotrophy, in this case light and nutrition, is the key to high coral growth19.

"The photosynthates which zooxanthellae provide their hosts with can deliver up to 100% of the daily required energy for corals. This energy is in part utilized to continuously translocate calcium- and bicarbonate ions, thereby creating a skeleton."

A high diversity of nutritive sources

The ways in which corals feed are diverse; they receive photosynthates from their zooxanthellae, they take up countless elements such as nitrogen, phosphorus and calcium from the water and they catch plankton and detritus. Next, we will discuss these various sources in more detail.

- photosynthesis

The bulk of the energy budget for many corals is delivered by zooxanthellae photosynthesis. The conversion of inorganic CO2 to organic carbohydrates is a complex biochemical process, which can be split into two phases. Figure 3 depicts the main components schematically, which are called photosystem II/I and the Calvin cycle. The essence is that a pigment stored in the zooxanthellae, called chlorophyll, absorbs sunlight which activates an electron current. The energy provided by this electric current induces the production of carbohydrates. The same process occurs in seaweeds and higher plants.

Chlorophyll is a protein which is stored in the chloroplasts of the zooxanthellae; these are cellular organelles in which photosynthesis takes place. The chloroplasts themselves harbour even smaller structures called thylakoid bodies; these compartments eventually form the center of the reactions. Here, water is split into oxygen and protons (acidic particles, denoted as H+). This first reaction can be summarized as follows:

2 H2O --> 4 H+ + O2 + 4 e-

As this process requires light energy, it is called the light reaction. The released electrons eventually allow for the production of ATP (adenosine triphosphate) and NADPH (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate). These molecules transfer the energy required to fuel to the Calvin cycle; a series of reactions which convert CO2 into carbohydrates. These are referred to as the dark reactions, as no light is required for this part of the process. They also occur during the day.

Figure 3: Simplified overview of the light reaction which takes place in the chloroplasts of the zooxanthellae. So-called thylakoid membranes form the center of the reaction. Light energy splits water into oxygen, causing a release of electrons. This generates ATP and NADPH, which provide the required energy for the Calvin cycle. This eventually converts CO2 into carbohydrates. In reality, all thylakoids in all of the chloroplasts take part in the process (© Benjamin Cummings).

When all photosynthetic processes are combined, the reaction becomes this:

6 CO2 + 6 H2O --> C6H12O6 + 6 O2

This reaction thus yields both carbohydrates and oxygen, which are subsequently partially transferred to the coral tissue. Both the algae and the corals burn these sugars, which provides the necessary energy. When this happens, the above reaction simply takes place in reverse order. For stony corals, this process delivers about 30-100% of the daily required energy, of which a large part is used to build a skeleton. Photosynthates, often deficient in nitrogen and phosphorus, are thought to be used as fuel for respiration, rather than assimilated into biomass1,5 .

Respiration causes a drop in aquarium pH at night from 8.2 to about 7.8, depending on stocking densities. Algae, seaweeds and higher plants also exhale CO2 at night. Sometimes, this causes mortality in aquaria or natural water bodies, especially during summer; this is because the warmer the water, the less oxygen it contains. A proper aeration of the aquarium is therefore required.

Sometimes, algae produce too much oxygen; this is harmful for all living cells, as a part of these molecules is converted into radicals. These are reactive molecules which contain extra electron pairs, which is why they love to interact with other substances. This causes DNA and cellular damage in the cell. Fortunately, corals have found a way to deal with this nuisance, by producing molecules called anti-oxidants. These bodyguards absorb dangerous radicals, thereby protecting the cells. They can also expel zooxanthellae which produce too much of these molecules. This eviction notice, which leads to coral bleaching, has two main causes: First, high levels of photosynthesis are a common culprit. This sometimes happens in the aquarium when we switch from T5 to metal halide lighting too quickly. This means it is important to allow corals to adapt slowly to new and stronger lighting.

Second, many coral species bleach at water temperatures of 30°C (86°F) or higher; this is because zooxanthellae are damaged at such high temperatures. The thylakoid membranes inside the chloroplasts simply fall apart, allowing many oxygen radicals to flood the coral tissue. This again triggers algae expulsion. Some zooxanthellae, however, are resistant to temperatures of up to 32°C (90°F), and this explains why some corals do not bleach during a hot summer (see archive).

After bleaching, corals have to reacquire their algae population in time, before they starve to death. Fortunately, this process is often successful. This also occurs in the aquarium, and this is possibly due to the reuptake of free-living zooxanthellae through the mouth and gastrovascular cavity. Many coral larvae also do this before they metamorphose into primary polyps (see archive). In addition, partially bleached corals simply regrow their remaining zooxanthellae.

Corals which inhabit deeper waters, or corals which have not formed a symbiotic relationship with algae, will have to acquire their energy through the uptake of plankton, particulate organic matter and dissolved organic matter. This is exactly what has been found for these species8,64,65.

- dissolved organic matter (DOM)

Dissolved organic matter (DOM) forms an important food source for many corals and related animals such as Zoanthus sp. Already in 1960, scientists found that stony corals from the genus Fungia were able to take up radioactively labeled glucose from the water20. This was demonstrated by subsequent tissue analysis.

In science, DOM is often split into various elements such as DON (dissolved organic nitrogen) and DOC (dissolved organic carbon). Important examples are carbohydrates (DOC), amino acids (DON, often referred to as DFAA or dissolved free amino acids) and urea; as less poisonous variant of ammonia which is produced by many animals. All of these molecules are taken up by corals at even very low concentrations in the nanomolar range6,20-26. A nanomolar (nM) indicates 1 nanomole per liter of water. For nitrate, 1 nM converts into 0.06 microgram/l, which is only 0.06 ppb! Stylophora pistillata for example takes up various amino acids (fig. 4), and together they comprise about 21% of the nitrogen budget for this species26 (fig. 5). These values are likely in the same ranges for many other stony corals. This indicates the importance of aquarium supplements for nutrient-poor aquaria, which contain many coral colonies and few fish. These are mostly aquaria from the aquaculture industry, as most hobbyists tanks are densely stocked with fish.

[Ptyochromis]

Those are axial corallites.

I don't see how they can be different, corals start off as a larvae that changes into a polyp, builds a skeleton and grows via asexual division.

Ill see if I can find my sources :P

[trueblackpercula]

It is intriguing that many corals also take up urea from the water, and they can do this in even greater quantities compared to nitrate (at least in nature). This indicates these animals may have adapted to the presence of higher animals on the reef, such as fish, which collectively produce large amounts of this nitrogen-rich compound on a daily basis27.

Scientists also found that urea, similar to amino acids, is more actively taken up during the day. These molecules may be important for building the organic matrix, the 'protein-scaffold' around which calcium carbonate is deposited. It was shown that this matrix is mainly produced at night, whereas calcification mainly takes place during the day34 (see archive). The organic matrix helps the formation of aragonite crystals, increasing both the density and strength of the coral skeleton35-37.

Figure 5: Nitrogen budget for Stylophora pistillata colonies in their natural environment. It is clear that ammonia and nitrate provide the bulk of the nitrogen, and that organic nitrogen in the form of amino acids provides 21%. The balance between dissolved molecules and particles such as plankton however depends on what is available to the coral (Renaud Grover et al, Journal of Experimental biology 2008).

Aquarists often notice polyp expansion after feeding plankton or 'boosters' which contain plenty dissolved organics. This is because corals, similar to humans, are probably capable of tasting food which is present in the water. Just like the human tongue has receptors to detect many substances, so too may corals have evolved receptors which recognize amino acids.

Adding amino acids such as glycine, alanine or glutamate to the water results in reactions such as polyp extension, swelling of common tissue ( coenenchyme) and on occasion the extrusion of the gut wall (or gastrovascular cavity)23,28. This mechanism possibly serves to detect zooplankton, which allows for more efficient capture of prey. Corals may also recognize neighbouring colonies, which they sometimes attack by literally throwing their stomachs onto them, after which the target is slowly digested.

"Aquarists often notice polyp expansion after feeding plankton or 'boosters' which contain plenty dissolved organics. This is because corals, just like humans, are capable of tasting food which is present in the water."

- dissolved inorganic matter (DIM)

The uptake of inorganic matter by corals encompasses macro-elements such as calcium, magnesium, bicarbonates and potassium, gases such as oxygen and carbon dioxide, and trace elements. Macro-elements largely play a role in calcification, and are added to the aquarium by means of calcium hydroxide (Ca(OH)2, also called kalkwasser), the Balling-method or a calcium reactor.

Trace elements are available in seawater only in minute concentrations, hence their name. Examples are iodine (50 ppb), nitrogen (300 ppb, nitrate is a part of this), phosphorus (phosphate is a part of this), halogens such as fluorine (1 ppm) and metals such as iron (10 ppb), zinc (10 ppb) and aluminum (10 ppb). Table 1 gives an overview of the most common elements present in marine water.

"Copper, chromium and zinc are highly toxic to life, and this holds especially true for invertebrates. These animals, mainly corals and anemones, have not evolved efficient ways of dealing with these molecules."

Manufacturers of aquarium supplements have tapped into this knowledge over the years, and this has led to a variety of available products. Adding metals, for example, supposedly augments the blue and green colouration of stony corals. Although evidence is limited regarding this (Heliopora coerulea is an exception to this rule), metals do have key functions for all life on earth. Many enzymes, proteins which catalyze chemical reactions allowing life to persist, have metal cores. Without these, they simply cannot function42-44. A nice example is the enzyme carbonic anhydrase, which catalyzes the conversion of CO2 to bicarbonate ions. This process is essential for building the coral skeleton (see archive). This enzyme contains a core of zinc; without sufficient ingestion of this metal, stony corals would not be able to photosynthesize and grow properly76.

Table 1: An overview of the main elements present in natural seawater. Concentrations are represented in ppt (parts-per-thousand, g/l), ppm (parts-per-million, mg/l) and ppb (parts-per-billion, μg/l). Sulphate and bicarbonate are not elements, but rather molecules which consist of different elements (or atoms). As they play important roles in oceanic biological processes they have been included in the table (source: www.invista.com).

element
ppt
element
ppm
element
ppb
oxygen (O)
857.8
bromine (Br)
65
nitrogen (N)
300
hydrogen (H)
107.2
strontium (Sr)
8
lithium (Li)
170
chlorine (Cl)
18.98
boron (B)
4
phosphorus (P)
70
sodium (Na)
10.556
silicon (Si)
3
iodine (I)
50
sulphate (SO42-)
2.649
fluorine (F)
1
zinc (Zi)
10
magnesium (Mg)
1.272


iron (Fe)
10
calcium (Ca)
0.4


aluminum (Al)
10
potassium (K)
0.38


manganese (Mn)
2
bicarbonate (HCO3-)
0.14


lead (Pb)
0.04




mercury (Hg)
0.03




gold (Au)
0.000004


Table 1 shows that metals truly are trace elements, which is why supplementing them to the aquarium should be done with care. Metals such as copper, chromium and zinc are highly toxic to life, and this holds especially true for invertebrates. These animals, mainly corals and anemones, have not evolved efficient ways of dealing with these molecules. Higher animals have evolved a liver and kidneys, which together quickly dispose of toxins through the urine and feces. Corals and their relatives are highly dependent on external water concentrations, and can only pump in or out molecules to some extent.

It is also clear that metals can be bound by organic molecules such as metallothionins; these proteins actively bind to metals rendering them harmless. This allows transport of these molecules through the bodies of countless organisms. This process is called chelation, and the involved organic molecule is called the chelator. It takes place in bacteria, algae and numerous animal species. Bacteria and algae also secrete these molecules into the water, thereby neutralizing metals for safe uptake. It has also been shown by some aquarists that corals do not incorporate heavy metals into their skeletons to such an extent as would be expected based on water concentrations46. Even at high metal concentrations, skeletal contents of aquarium corals often show a deficit in metal composition compared to wild specimens. This indicates many metals in the aquarium are not biologically available. Either way, supplementing heavy metals should be done with care.

"Phosphates possibly inhibit the buildup of the coral skeleton, by binding to the growing crystal lattice. Coralline algae, which also calcify, show a decrease in growth at higher phosphate levels."

Phosphorus also is a widely discussed element, often causing problems in aquaria. As orthophosphate, PO43-, it regularly causes overgrowth of algae, cyanobacteria and coral mortality. Most aquarists are very much aware phosphates can be dangerous to aquarium life, and manufacturers have adapted to this by producing many phosphate-lowering products. Iron- and aluminum-based substrates have been known to bind phosphates for years, and this principle is perfectly applicable to aquaria.

There still is some controversy about the direct harmful effects of phosphate; it seems that predominantly stony corals are affected by this. Soft corals and gorgonians have been reported to grow at concentrations as high as 5 mg/l!59 Phosphates possibly inhibit the buildup of the coral skeleton, by binding to the growing crystal lattice. Coralline algae, which also calcify, show a decrease in growth at higher phosphate levels. Phosphates also cause negative indirect effects on marine animals by stimulating algal and bacterial growth62,63.

- particulate organic matter (POM)

This group of particles usually describes detritus; the small remnants of feces and decayed organisms. In the aquarium, food which is not consumed and removed also becomes detritus. Detritus eventually precipitates on the ocean floor or aquarium bottom as sediment. This layer of organic material is partially degraded by bacteria, and converted into inorganic molecules such as nitrate and phosphate. This process is called mineralization.

The sediment which is present on coral reefs contains bacteria, protozoa and their excrements, microscopic invertebrates, microalgae and organics29. These sedimentary sources can all serve as coral nutrients, especially for colonies which grow in turbid waters15,30. Experiments during which sedimentary carbon was radioactively labeled showed that corals such as Fungia horrida and Acropora millepora readily took up sediment31,32. The more sediment present, the more uptake is measured; 50-80% of this material is converted into biomass by several species. This has also been found for the Caribbean species Montastrea franksi, Diploria strigosa and Madracis mirabilis; detritus is taken up by the polyps, and the available nitrogen is converted into biomass.

It must be noted however that too much sediment which precipitates on the corals can be disastrous; reefs have disappeared in many bays inhabited by humans because of this. This is caused by the upwelling of soil sediments by tourists or boats, or by the presence of fish farms. This phenomenon can be seen in the Gulf of Aqaba (Red Sea), where the reef stops as soon as densely populated areas are reached. High sedimentation literally suffocates the reef by blocking light, food uptake and gas exchange.


Figure 6: A Dutch aquarium which is enriched in detritus and plankton due to heavy feeding. Because of this, this aquarium also harbours increased populations of benthic crustaceans such as amphipods, which inhabit the live rock. By feeding phyto- and zooplankton, or an artificial feed such as Reef Pearls, a somewhat natural nutrient cycle can be created. The resulting amphipods and other small invertebrates are an important food source for e.g. dragonets (Synchiropus sp.). The available particles are essential to the animals present, which include Menella gorgonians, Dendronephthya sp., Scleronephthya sp., stony corals such as Tubastrea coccinea and Rhizotrochus typus, sponges and tunicates. The 'dirty' aquarium, which allows more animals to thrive, is becoming a new hype in the marine hobby. The ultimate trick remains the availability of particles whilst ensuring high water quality (low ammonia, nitrate and phosphate levels, photographs: Pieter van Suylekom).

"The sediment which is present on coral reefs contains bacteria, protozoa and their excrements, microscopic invertebrates, microalgae and organics. These sedimentary sources can all serve as coral nutrients, especially for colonies which grow in turbid waters."

- plankton

This group is sometimes regarded as the living component of POM. The term plankton is a common name for an astoundingly large group of organisms which can be categorized in different ways. Figure 7 shows a commonly accepted division into pico-, nano-, micro- and mesoplankton. These groups consist of (cyano)bacteria and protozoa (picoplankton), algae and protozoa (nanoplankton), microscopic crustaceans such as rotifers and large protozoa (microplankton) and countless other species of crustaceans (mesoplankton). Fish and invertebrate larvae can further be categorized into micro- and mesoplankton, depending on the species.


Figure 7: Plankton size classes: picoplankton, nanoplankton, microplankton and mesozooplankton included in the diet of scleractinian corals. (A, B) Scanning electron micrographs of (A) Prochloroccocus sp. (0.6 μm) and (B) Synechococcus sp. (1 μm). (C) Epifluorescence microscope image showing one nanoflagellate cell indicated by a yellow arrow. Image of (D) ciliates (mean total length is 100 – 200 μm) taken under a phase contrast microscope and (E) crab zoea (mean total length is 1000 μm) (Houlbrèque & Ferrier-Pagès, Biological Reviews, 2009).
Plankton was not considered as an important coral food source for many years; it was believed concentrations on the reef were too low to have any significant effect. In the meantime, more accurate estimations have been made, based on improved measuring techniques39. These values are particularly high during summers, which is probably due to the abundance of phytoplankton. This leads to increased concentrations of zooplankton, as they feed on the extra available phytoplankton.

Figure 8: Astroides calycularis, a Mediterranean azooxanthellate coral species. For corals within this group, catching plankton is a crucial means of survival (photograph: Jean-Louis Teyssié, IAEA Monaco).
The amount of available plankton not only fluctuates during the year, but also during the day. Zooplankton consists of actively swimming animals, which constantly migrate between the reef and the water column. During sunset, the free zooplankton concentration rises quickly, as these animals migrate to the water column. This causes a rise in copepod (500-700 μm) concentration which is five times higher compared to daytime levels!36-38

For other small invertebrates, this nocturnal concentration quadruples. Many larvae of animals such as tunicates and polychaetes larger than 700 microns also appear. When the aquarium is viewed at night by using a flashlight, this phenomenon can also be seen. Unfortunately, this nocturnal festivity is somewhat ruined by the presence of a protein skimmer, which cannot tell the difference between what is useful and what is not.

The nightly migration of plankton also explains why most stony corals mainly expand their polyps at night, as more prey can be caught during this time. This strategy also protects the polyps against predation from fish and other animals during the day. Nowadays, many aquarists have found that corals are able to adapt to a change in food availability; a nice example is Tubastrea coccinea, which learns to expand its tentacles during the day and even seems to anticipate feedings.
"Plankton was not considered as an important coral food source for many years; it was believed concentrations on the reef were too low to have any significant effect. In the meantime, more accurate estimations have been made, based on improved measuring techniques".

In the Gulf of Aqaba, the tentacles of massive coral species such as Favites sp., Favia favus and Platygyra daedalea expand 15-45 minutes after sunset. After 70 minutes, full expansion is reached36. Many corals also expand during the day, such as most species of Porites39 and numerous soft corals.

Figure 9: On the reef, such as in the Gulf of Aqaba, Red Sea, a high concentration of phytoplankton is present. This can be clearly seen by the green haze in the water (photograph: Tim Wijgerde).

The uptake of particles by corals depends on many factors, such as prey type and concentration, irradiance, colony and polyp morphology, and water flow velocity. Especially this last aspect has become a popular point of discussion amongst aquarists, as the husbandry of azooxanthellate corals is becoming increasingly popular. Research indicates that many of these corals are quite limited in their capacity to catch particles various water flow speeds. A good example are the colourful Dendronephthya's, which often do not last long in aquaria. They most efficiently catch phytoplankton at flow speeds between 12,5 and 17,5 cm/s. This has been demonstrated by determining the amount of accumulated chlorophyll inside of the polyps at various flow speeds. This value is a measure for the amount of ingested phytoplankton, as algae are rich in this protein. These results also correlated well with the increase in colony polyp number; this value was about 7% per day! This means these corals can grow quite fast if supplied with ample nutrition, which forms a striking contrast with the meager results obtained so far in aquaria.

"The nightly migration of zooplankton explains why most stony corals expand their polyps at night, as more prey can be caught during this time."

Next to azooxanthellate soft corals, some gorgonians are also quite picky about water current; in 1993, Taiwanese biologists found that the gorgonians Subergorgia suberosa, Melithaea ochracea and Acanthogorgia vegae displayed large differences in capture rate at different flow speeds51. Figure 10 shows that mainly Subergorgia suberosa has adapted to a very constant water flow. This is indicative for the environment which this species inhabits. The scientists hypothesized this result was due to its polyp morphology; because of their length, they were subject to increased flow resistance which caused them to deform quickly at higher flow speeds. This made it difficult for the polyps to catch particles. Melithaea ochracea has much shorter polyps which makes this species much more flexible. The biologists also think a balance exists between the amount of expended energy and that which is received from ingested prey. This is likely another factor which determines the maximum speeds at which plankton can be caught.

Interestingly, soft corals from the genus Dendronephthya have evolved large spicules, which are found in the body column and around polyps. These seem to function in holding the body column and polyps erect in strong water currents, allowing the corals to strain phytoplankton effectively from the passing waters. Their polyps also increase in size as water velocity increases7. Finally, polyp reaction time may also be limiting capture rates at higher flow speeds.

[trueblackpercula]

Figure 10: A series of drawings depicting the feeding behaviour of Acanthogorgia vegae, based on video recordings. Both polyp reaction time and morphology may determine the maximum flow speeds at which plankton can be caught (Lin et al, Zoological Studies, 2002).

Not only water flow speed, but also the orientation of coral colonies may influence feeding efficiency. Many gorgonians which grow in large fan-shapes, such as Gorgonia ventalina and Leptogorgia sp., do so perpendicular to water currents. This allows them to catch plankton from the water more efficiently50. If aquarists are determined to keep such species successfully, they should consider building a custom aquarium which respects colony orientation, (the absence of) lighting, water current, nutrition and water quality. Herein lie of course new challenges.

Figure 11: Certain coral species such as Subergorgia suberosa are difficult to keep alive because of high demands to their environment. Only around a water current of 8 cm/s, this species is able to properly ingest plankton (Dai & Lin, JEMBE, 1993).

According to a study from the seventies, colony shape is supposedly important as well; the higher the ratio between colony surface area and volume, the more efficient particle capture. Later studies have challenged this view; Pocillopora damicornis, Pavona cactus and P. gigantea are able to catch more plankton when this ratio decreases53. Polyp capture efficiency was also found to be independent of polyp size for these species.

"Many gorgonians which grow in large fan-shapes, such as Gorgonia ventalina and Leptogorgia sp., do so perpendicularly to water currents. This allows them to catch plankton from the water more efficiently."

Other branched SPS corals are however capable of catching more zooplankton per unit of weight compared to species with larger polyps38. It seems that polyp size is not a solid predictor of capture efficiency, but rather determines maximum prey size.

It has also been found that ratio's between different components of zooplankton are not necessarily accurate predictors of what corals mainly feed on. This is often quite species-specific. The species Pocillopora damicornis and Pavona gigantea which inhabit the Gulf of Panama were found to mainly feed on isopods, amphipods and crab zoea (200-400 μm), despite the fact that 61% of the available plankton consisted of copepods66. This is likely due to the fact that these crustaceans, such as Oithona sp., are much harder to catch. These animals swim quite quickly and powerful, making it hard to hold on to them. Nowadays, aquarium products containing dried copepods exist, such as Cyclop Eeze®. These are probably ingested more efficiently.

Although not all prey animals are caught equally effective, coral polyps are not too bad at fishing. Individual polyps of the Atlantic species Madracis mirabilis and Montastrea cavernosa are able to capture and ingest 0.5 to 2 prey per hour37. On a colony level, these numbers get big pretty quickly. A small Seriatopora colony of 14 ml in volume is able to capture 10,000 Artemia in 15 minutes!38 This however requires very high aquarium zooplankton concentrations of 10,000 to 20,000 Artemia per liter.

Other results show that an aquarium concentration of 2000 nauplii/l (about 500 nauplii /gallon) is ideal for stony corals such as Pocillopora damicornis38. To reach this concentration, it will take a daily amount of one million nauplii for the average 500 l (130 USG) aquarium. When culturing Artemia with a starting dose of 30 g/l (1 oz/33 fl. oz), concentrations of one million nauplii per liter are easily obtained. A daily dosage of one liter (34 fl. oz) on such an aquarium is quite a lot, and this depends on the amount of biomass present. For the average aquarium of this size, filled with stony corals, 200 ml (7 fl. oz) is a guideline. The fish however will consume quite a lot of this food; it remains difficult to translate laboratory tests to the average household aquarium. For these aquaria, of which about two million worldwide exist according to estimations, the optimal dosage will have to be found by experimentation. Feeding at night is also recommended, as many stony corals will have their tentacles expanded and will respond more vigorously.

"Coral polyps are not too bad at fishing; a small Seriatopora colony is able to capture 10,000 Artemia in 15 minutes!"

Next to the fish, protein skimmers also are voracious particle predators. All forms of mechanical filtration will decrease available nutrients, unfortunately. Without this filtration however, water quality declines quickly. Water changes, phosphate reactors, refugia with Chaetomorpha macro algae and denitrification reactors all work well to allow plankton populations to persist, however these are often quite labour intensive. Keeping many organisms in a small aquarium, be it corals or fish, simply degrades water quality quicky. In nature, the ratio between biomass to water volume is much lower. Next to this, many waste products are quickly converted into new biomass such as plankton and sponges. This also occurs in the aquarium, to some extent, however this does not outweigh the amount of nutrients which is introduced on a daily basis. Moreover, benthic algae start growing easily, which will outcompete corals if herbivores are not present in sufficient numbers. This phenomenon also seems to affect some reefs, on which too many herbivores such as surgeon fish have been collected.


Figure 12: Corals from the Nephtheidae family are true suspension feeders; with their finely branched tentacles they mainly capture phytoplankton (photograph: Pieter van Suylekom).

There has been much debate about how selective corals are about their diets, especially regarding phyto- and zooplankton. Various studies show that stony corals predominantly feed on zooplankton, and that soft corals are mostly herbivores. Gorgonians seem to have placed themselves somewhere in the middle of this spectrum, with a tendency towards zooplankton. New research indicates that stony corals such as Pocillopora damicornis do not grow well on phytoplankton, such as Nannochloropsis oculata73. Other pelagic phytoplankton such as Tetraselmis sp. may yield better results. Conversely, Artemia and rotifers gave much better results with this species74.

Various studies indicate that soft corals mainly feed on phytoplankton. Many species display so-called pinnula; these are the finely branched structures which provide polyp tentacles with a feather-like appearance. A nice example is Xenia umbellata, although it seems this species has lost its polyp mouths in evolution74, which are now rudimentary. Pinnula of Dendronephthya colonies are interspersed at 60-80 μm intervals (a bacteria is about 2 μm), which is adequate to capture phytoplankton. Furthermore, plant-digesting enzymes have been found in three soft coral species from the genus Alcyonium; amylase and laminarinase, in contrast to stony corals47. Finally, many soft corals and gorgonians only display small and ineffective nematocytes, unlike their stony coral relatives48. As an example, touching Cynarina's, Trachyphyllia's, Favia's and Acanthastrea's sometimes leads to skin irritation. For D. hemprichi, it was found that particles larger than 750 μm were not successfully caught. After an average of 50 seconds, zooplankters escaped from its tentacles. Even after three attempts, zooplankton did not show signs of paralysis47. These observations indicate that at least some soft coral species are not well adapted to catching actively swimming particles such as zooplankton. As most aquaria nowadays are stocked with both soft and stony corals, dosing different types of plankton is recommended.

"Captured particles are eventually ingested through the oral pore, by means of flagella or cilia. These hair-like appendages propel the food into the mouth and through the pharynx, after which it ends up in the gastric cavity."

The uptake of pico- and nanoplankton by corals is difficult to determine, as these are quickly degraded. Bacteria and protozoa do have been found in coral digestive cavities, and these microbes play an important role in the marine food chain. In terms of biomass and photosynthesis, these organisms form the most important part of pelagic plankton52-54. On the reef, bacterial concentrations sometimes lie around one million per milliliter! For cyanobacteria, the number fluctuates around 10.000-100.000 per ml and for flagellates around 10.000 per ml. As these microbes grow fast, they are highly important for the nitrogen and carbon cycles in the ocean. For the model species Stylophora pistillata, if has been found that digesting microbes yields almost three times as much nitrogen as ammonia, nitrate and amino acids together (figure 13). This of course depends on availability. Research on Favia favus and Fungia granulosa showed that the highest concentrations of micro-organisms were found around the mouth area, supporting the idea they are consumed by various species57.



Figure 13: Daily nitrogen budget for Stylophora pistillata. For these estimations, scientists took an average of 50 polyps per cm2. When this species is fed with natural zooplankton at a concentration of 1500 prey/l, this provides the coral with 1.8 μg nitrogen/cm2/day. The uptake of pico- and nanoplankton provides up to 1.4 μg N/cm2/day. Dissolved organic nitrogen, at the lowest concentrations found in seawater, contributes 0.5 μg N/cm2/day. In total, this yields 3.7 μg N/cm2/day. Although these values may fluctuate under various conditions, they provide a unique insight into the balance between different nutrient sources. Plankton may deliver over six times the amount of nitrogen compared to dissolved organic nitrogen (Houlbrèque & Ferrier-Pagès, Biological Reviews, 2009).

"The uptake of non-visible particles may be an explanation for the 'mysterious' success of Goniopora and Alveopora corals in plankton-rich aquaria."

The uptake of small particles is stimulated by mucus production58; nowadays, products are available which are based on this principle, although results remain sparse. By means of polymer-mediated adhesion, various types of plankton can be bound which could stimulate their uptake by coral polyps. Detritus and larger plankton may also be more effectively captured by mucus. Additionally, bacteria thrive in this slimy secretion; the bacterial density of mucus has been found to be four times that of seawater58.

Captured particles are eventually ingested through the oral pore, by means of flagella, cilia and mucus embedding. Flagella and cilia are hair-like appendages which are localised on epidermal cells. They transport particles to the mouth and pharynx, after which it ends up in the gastric cavity. This process likely takes place in most corals, and this can be clearly seen when Fungia mushroom corals are fed with Mysis or Artemia. The uptake of non-visible particles may be an explanation for the 'mysterious' success of Goniopora and Alveopora corals in plankton-rich aquaria.

The dynamic balance between light and nutrition

Some corals are able to shift the balance between energy gained from photosynthesis, particles and dissolved molecules when required15,30. Specimens which inhabit deeper waters receive less light, and bleached or azooxanthellate corals have to gain energy from other sources than photosynthesis. Montipora capitata colonies have been found to increase their plankton feeding rates after bleaching, which completely satisfies their daily metabolic requirements12 (table 2).

Table 2: Average feeding rates of several coral species under bleached and non-bleached conditions. Bleached Montipora capitata colonies increased their feeding rates, which allowed them to sustain their energy reserves. After induced bleaching, M. capitata fragments captured about six times more zooplankton compared to control colonies. Porites sp. do not seem to have evolved this adaptation, as changes in feeding rates were not statistically significant. Average feeding rates equal zooplankton particles caught per gram of coral per hour (Grottoli et al, Nature, 2006).


Average feeding rates


control
bleached
Porites compressa
12.8
10.9
Porites lobata
18.8
20.6
Montipora capitata
5.7
32.6
The increase in M. capitata feeding rates allowed these corals to sustain their lipid and carbohydrate reserves, which may permit them to continue to reproduce annually. Bleached corals are known to lose their ability to reproduce (also called a decrease in fecundity) for about 2 years. This recovery period can deteriorate reefs, as less offspring is produced. The ability of M. capitata to maintain its health status by increasing zooplankton feeding, in contrast to corals such as Porites sp., may lead to decreased biodiversity in the future. Corals which are able to feed more when times get tough are more likely to survive in the end. Others might disappear when the oceans get warmer.

Species-specific adaptation has also been found for Goniastrea reniformis and Porites cylindrica. During an experiment, these species were subjected to either detritus and ample lighting, or detritus and shade. After prolonged exposure to a shady environment G. reniformis more than doubled its feeding rate, which allowed it to grow at a normal rate. P. cylindrica was not able to compensate for its loss of zooxanthellae carbon input, as it did not increase its feeding rate sufficiently.

The synergistic effects of light and nutrition on coral physiology

The positive effects of nutrition on corals are profound; essential processes such as photosynthesis, calcification and the buildup of the organic matrix are stimulated by feeding (fig.14). Plankton supplementation is thus useful, but how does it actually work?

- nutrition and photosynthesis

Although it may seem that feeding and photosynthesis are two separate processes, these are in fact intricately linked. Nutrient exchange between corals and symbiotic algae is diverse, and this is increased by extra light and feeding. More feeding stimulates zooxanthellae growth and buildup of pigments such as chlorophyll77-79. This makes the coral a more effective 'solar cell', which is able to convert more light into chemical energy. This benefits both the coral and the algae. It has become clear from CORALZOO-experiments corals grow less than expected under high intensity lighting (irradiance of 500 μE/m2/s, which is reached when corals grow very close to high-power T5 fluorescent bulbs, see archive). This is most likely due to other limiting factors which serve as building blocks; French scientists found that this limitation can be reduced by providing extra nutrition in the form of zooplankton70,71. This in fact occurs in nature as well, mostly during summers, when ample light and zooplankton particles are available. This situation can be simulated in the aquarium as well, by providing extra plankton in combination with T5 or metal halide lighting. Zooxanthellae also produce extra amino acids as a result of this, next to glycerol and glucose. A part of this is again transferred to the coral host tissue72,73.

- nutrition and calcification

Various mechanisms mediate the positive effects of nutrition on coral skeleton buildup, however this seems to take somewhat longer compared to increases in tissue growth69-71. After eight weeks of zooplankton feeding (such as Artemia nauplii), calcification rates of Stylophora pistillata doubled (figure 14). As tissues grew faster compared to skeleton, this led to fleshier corals. When these corals received less light, a decline in growth rate could be prevented by providing additional plankton. This fact is interesting for aquarists who do not want to make use of heavy lighting above the aquarium, for obvious reasons.

How does feeding with e.g. zooplankton stimulate calcification? First, increases in coral tissue due to extra feeding lead to the production of more metabolic CO2. Corals acquire 75% of their dissolved inorganic carbon from metabolism, and only 25% from the water column; more CO2 leads to higher bicarbonate production, which may provide more building blocks for synthesizing the coral skeleton (see archive). Second, more nutrition provides more energy, also indirectly by increased photosynthetic capacity, which allows more calcium ions to be transported to the growing skeleton.

It was also found that the incorporation of aspartic acid (an amino acid) into the organic matrix about doubled after feeding. Aspartic acid is a major component of the organic matrix, and its buildup also increased twofold at night and by 60% during the day after additional feeding (figure 14). This matrix is mainly synthesized during daytime, and is of vital importance for depositing the skeleton as it plays a major role in the regulation of aragonite crystal formation.

"When corals receive less light, a decline in growth rate can be prevented by providing additional plankton. This fact is interesting for aquarists who do not want to make use of heavy lighting above the aquarium."

- nutrition and coral tissue



Coral feeding quickly leads to increased tissue production and protein concentration (figure 14)67,68. This increase was about 2-8x for Stylophora pistillata after three weeks of zooplankton feeding!69-71. Next to proteins, lipid content also increased. Both saturated and unsaturated fatty acids increased in Galaxea fascicularis tissue after feeding with Artemia nauplii68. More light actually decreased tissue fat contents. Although this seems contradictory, these corals probably invested more fatty acids into growth and zooxanthellae production to enhance usage of extra light.

Figure 14: An overview of the studies discussed in this article, which shows the diverse effects of feeding on coral physiology. Fed corals display (1) twofold greater protein concentrations and photosynthetic rates per unit skeletal surface area; (2) twofold higher dark and light calcification rates; (3) twofold greater organic matrix synthesis in the dark and a 60% increase during daytime (Dubinsky et al., 1990; Witting, 1999; Titlyanov et al., 2000a,b, 2001; Ferrier-Pagès et al., 2003; Houlbrèque et al., 2003, 2004a).

For S. pistillata, zooxanthellae tissue concentrations doubled within several weeks of zooplankton feeding, both at low and high light levels. This also applied to the number of algae residing in a single host cell; even coral cells with four algae increased in number (from 0.4% to 0.7% of the cell population). Chlorophyll a and c2, which are used for photosynthesis, also increased in concentration.

As proteins, fatty acids as well as chlorophyll increase in concentrations, this indicates that both the coral host as the symbiotic algae profit from plankton uptake. Chlorophyll increase may also be reached by adding inorganic nitrogen such as nitrate to the aquarium; this is the reason why corals turn brown in nutrient-rich aquaria.

Concluding remarks

During the last decades, it has become increasingly clear to biologists that food sources other than photosynthesis are essential to many coral species. Although photosynthesis provides the 'junk food' for zooxanthellate corals, and allows for the creation of vast coral reefs, other building blocks are required. In addition, extra building blocks increase a coral's capacity to harness the sun's energy, by stimulating zooxanthellae growth and chlorophyll buildup. During times of coral bleaching, the reefs may be saved by the presence of alternative energy sources such as zooplankton, until algae tissue populations have been restored. Furthermore, many (soft) corals and gorgonians have not formed a symbiotic relationship with Symbiodinium algae, which makes heterotrophy necessary.

"Major differences exist between the fastest growing coral and the most attractive one. Aquarists favour bright colours, which arise due to coral host pigmentation."

These insights are of major importance to coral aquaculture, and allow for optimal coral husbandry. Light, dissolved matter such as amino acids, and plankton; together, these can greatly stimulate coral growth.


Figure 15: Which coral wins the beauty contest? Increased feeding of stony corals such as Pocillopora damicornis leads to increased zooxanthellae density, pigmentation and growth. These fragments were fed every other day with fish powder, varying from 0 to 0.5 grams (photograph: Dr. Shai Shafir, Red Sea Corals Ltd., Israel).

It must be noted that major differences exist between the fastest growing coral, and the most attractive one (figure 15). Most aquarists favor bright colours, which arise by coral host pigmentation. Brown zooxanthellate pigments such as chlorophyll are considered to be unattractive. These last pigments do provide the energy for increased growth, in contrast to brightly coloured pigments which act as sunscreens. Producing them also goes at the expense of coral growth.

In both nature and aquaria, we find both colour variations for many corals. The question remains which is more important; growth or looks? A solution to this problem might be to rear corals under ideal conditions, followed by an acclimation phase of decreased nutrients and high irradiance levels. This last phase stimulates colour intensity and therefore coral aesthetic value. Of course, water quality has to be controlled at all times; high particle concentrations and low phosphate levels seem to be the ideal combination.

This information is also useful for the home aquarium; using strong lighting has always prevailed over additional coral feeding, which might not be the best approach. It is often said corals require light, and the fish require feeding; now we know that our corals also benefit from this last source. Even though we may not be able to see corals taking up amino acids, protozoa and detritus; this indeed does occur. Although the discussed results have shown different coral species respond differently to provided food sources, one very important conclusion can be drawn; fed corals are happy corals. "My corals don't eat" is a statement you won't make that easily anymore after having read this article..

[trueblackpercula]

We thank Dr. Fanny Houlbrèque (International Atomic Energy Agency, Monaco) and Dr. Christine Ferrier-Pagès (Centre Scientifique de Monaco), two experts on coral physiology and nutrition, for their support.

Proud sponsor:



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[trueblackpercula]

Those are axial corallites.

Ill see if I can find my sources :P

None the less it's describing excatly what I wanted to know. I will get back to you all when I read the entire article. Very useful information to me and hope other read it as well.

Please send what every you can find.

[Ptyochromis]

Trying to avoid citing textbooks. Here are a few notable finds, hopefully you will be able to access them. Ill admit I skimmed a few of them, haven't had a chance to read them in their entirety yet.


-Circulation of Fluids in the Gastrovascular System of the Reef Coral Acropora cervicornis.
http://www.jstor.org.db11.linccweb.org/stable/1541469

-Spatial and Temporal Patterns of Mitosis in the Cells of the Axial Polyp of the Reef Coral Acropora cervicornis.
http://www.jstor.org.db11.linccweb.org/stable/1541480


-Defining Fundamental Niche Dimensions of Corals: Synergistic Effects of Colony Size, Light, and Flow
http://www.jstor.org.db11.linccweb.org/stable/27651039

-Patterns of Whole Colony Prey Capture in the Octocoral, Alcyonium siderium
http://www.jstor.org.db11.linccweb.org/stable/1541414
(Note, this coral is not a Hexacorallia. Take it with a grain of salt as it may not apply to corals in the Acroporidae family).

-Cellular Growth of Host and Symbiont in a Cnidarian-Zooxanthellar Symbiosis
http://www.jstor.org.db11.linccweb.org/stable/1542809

[Ptyochromis]

None the less it's describing excatly what I wanted to know. I will get back to you all when I read the entire article. Very useful information to me and hope other read it as well.

Please send what every you can find.



Holy copy and paste batman!

[trueblackpercula]

Holy copy and paste batman!

Yup still reading it for the second time

[James32]

Ok I did my best in capturing the feeding of Coral V Power in the HD Under 20K led lighting with all pumps and power heads off for the recording of this video.

Hope everyone likes it and next week I will Post a Video OF the feeding of Oyster feast to see if there is any difference.

I think target feeding is a much more affective way of adding food to the tank Vrs just dumping food in the tank and hopping that the tiny little polyp catches it. I also think that Sps like different types of food verse thinking they all eat the same food source. ( sure I know I will catch heat for that but its JMO)

Enjoy and let me know what you see

http://youtu.be/QgtzOdnAJq4

Sorry if this was already asked but what kind of camera and lense are you using? Do you know if I could get the same shots using a Canon Rebel t3i with kit lense? it is new camera I bought for this purpose and have no Idea how to get these type of pics and videos up close with it?
Thanks and sorry to get a little off subject
James

[trueblackpercula]

Sorry if this was already asked but what kind of camera and lense are you using? Do you know if I could get the same shots using a Canon Rebel t3i with kit lense? it is new camera I bought for this purpose and have no Idea how to get these type of pics and videos up close with it?
Thanks and sorry to get a little off subject
James

Sorry James but I used an plan old iphone 5

[Dukester]

I have a photo that might better show those "feeding" polyps, is this what your talking about? The long strings that come out when I feed coral food? And on a side note, I use a canon t3 with a kit lens for all my photos, when I get home I'll send u a link to a site which I learned everything there is to know about dslr cameras and reef photography.

http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd462/dukester_/019-1_zpsb9c6ff24.jpg

[trueblackpercula]

Amazing photograph not exactly but on the millipora yes I would call them feeder poylops. but you can see them in your picture coming out of the tips of your Millie.

[Ptyochromis]

Looks like mucus to me. Mucus is used to remove debris and capture food.

trueblackpercula: Read this: http://coral.aims.gov.au/info/structure-tissue.jsp

[Dukester]

Looks like mucus to me. Mucus is used to remove debris and capture food.

trueblackpercula: Read this: http://coral.aims.gov.au/info/structure-tissue.jsp

that is not mucus.. those extend when feeding coral food and retract within an hour later... hard to tell from from my photo too i guess, i searched around a bit and this debate has taken place here before once or twice, it seems some people think its a defensive response and some think its a feeding response...

http://vid259.photobucket.com/albums/hh283/psteeleb/th_feeding004.jpg?videoplayer=offsite?videoplayer=offsite (http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh283/psteeleb/?action=view&current=feeding004.mp4)

[trueblackpercula]

I agree feeder polyps extending outwards also what are you feeding?

[Dukester]

I agree feeder polyps extending outwards also what are you feeding?

brs reef chilli, i dissolve 1/4 tsp of it in a cup of tank water shut my return pump off and dump it in.

[Ptyochromis]

that is not mucus.. those extend when feeding coral food and retract within an hour later... hard to tell from from my photo too i guess, i searched around a bit and this debate has taken place here before once or twice, it seems some people think its a defensive response and some think its a feeding response...

http://vid259.photobucket.com/albums/hh283/psteeleb/th_feeding004.jpg?videoplayer=offsite?videoplayer=offsite (http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh283/psteeleb/?action=view&current=feeding004.mp4)

Sorry pic is a little blurry, hard to tell where they originate.
If not that it looks somewhat like mesenterial filaments.
Here is a time lapse of it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5xcRToL55I

Here is a pic of meseteria filaments from an acro.
http://i1.ytimg.com/vi/i4DfdQSA35E/maxresdefault.jpg

[sahin]

I posted this article on Biggles' other thread and so thought I should post it here too.

http://sdrv.ms/1cdOiKi Coral farming: effects of light, water motion and artificial foods

[74Killer]

Thanks Sahin for posting that article!

[Ptyochromis]

♥♥♥

[biggles]

Thanks for posting that paper here Sahin, much appreciated mate :)

Being very impressed with the Reef Roids i was p*ssed off to discover that was the only Polyp Lab product allowed into Aus. I figure if they didn't lie about the roids actually being acro food then maybe they haven't lied about the rest of their stuff lol - that's my reasoning anyway :)
I just discovered that a second product from them is now available here so i've ordered a bottle of Polyp-Booster and it better bloody do something as it cost me $45- with postage for 100ml. :crazy1:

The blurb says:

Designed to improve the health and vibrance of all scleractinian corals, by providing superior nutrition. Can trigger a feeding response in most aquarium inhabitants including corals, inverts, crustaceans and fish in less than 30 seconds. 1 dropper half full per 227 litres (60 gallons).

Contains:
18 Amino-acids (60% of dry weight)
12 Fatty acids (20% of dry weight)
And as much as 120ppm of Astaxanthan pigment, from natural sources.

Polyp-Booster is safe for any type of marine aquarium and once your reef has experienced Polyp-Booster's superior nutrition, it's inhabitants will reward you with amazing vibrancy and fantastic growth.


I'm going to give it a whirl and i'll let you know if anything happens in 30 bloody seconds and if my inhabitants have even more vibrancy and the growth is fantastic. Obviously if i don't see this stuff i'm going to cut loose on Polyp Lab............. forty bloody five bloody dollars.......

Has anyone else tried this stuff before ?

[Arkayology]

Very informative thread! I have been using BRS reef chili for a few months now and get a good reaction with m. filaments out of most of my acros while target feeding with all pumps off. I also squirt a little oyster feast into the mix just to add a little treat.

[sahin]

Thanks for posting that paper here Sahin, much appreciated mate :)

Being very impressed with the Reef Roids i was p*ssed off to discover that was the only Polyp Lab product allowed into Aus. I figure if they didn't lie about the roids actually being acro food then maybe they haven't lied about the rest of their stuff lol - that's my reasoning anyway :)
I just discovered that a second product from them is now available here so i've ordered a bottle of Polyp-Booster and it better bloody do something as it cost me $45- with postage for 100ml. :crazy1:

The blurb says:

Designed to improve the health and vibrance of all scleractinian corals, by providing superior nutrition. Can trigger a feeding response in most aquarium inhabitants including corals, inverts, crustaceans and fish in less than 30 seconds. 1 dropper half full per 227 litres (60 gallons).

Contains:
18 Amino-acids (60% of dry weight)
12 Fatty acids (20% of dry weight)
And as much as 120ppm of Astaxanthan pigment, from natural sources.

Polyp-Booster is safe for any type of marine aquarium and once your reef has experienced Polyp-Booster's superior nutrition, it's inhabitants will reward you with amazing vibrancy and fantastic growth.


I'm going to give it a whirl and i'll let you know if anything happens in 30 bloody seconds and if my inhabitants have even more vibrancy and the growth is fantastic. Obviously if i don't see this stuff i'm going to cut loose on Polyp Lab............. forty bloody five bloody dollars.......

Has anyone else tried this stuff before ?

Mate, here is couple of promo videos about it:
SFIYUs_Fots

This video has dramatic music...maybe they think the music will cause you to buy it :lol:
-wCa_eyzENM

Let us know if the corals respond in the way they show that Green Millepora (1:04 into video) in the 1st video I posted. If most of your corals show that same response I am getting this product too!

Very informative thread! I have been using BRS reef chili for a few months now and get a good reaction with m. filaments out of most of my acros while target feeding with all pumps off. I also squirt a little oyster feast into the mix just to add a little treat.

Reef Chili was available in the UK a year or so back...but due to freaking stupid EU Regulations...no longer available here! :angryfire:

[biggles]

Very informative thread! I have been using BRS reef chili for a few months now and get a good reaction with m. filaments out of most of my acros while target feeding with all pumps off. I also squirt a little oyster feast into the mix just to add a little treat.

Thanks for dropping in mate, appreciate the info on the reef chili. After i read that paper and knowing how accurate they were in regards to the effectiveness of the reef roids i was extremely bummed to discover i can't get the chili in Aus. I think anyone with access to it and reef roids should have them in the reef cupboard, if the chili is anything like reef roids it will benefit all the micro life in your tank not just the acros.

Hmmmmm, first off i don't entirely trust the impartiality of that guy in the first vid Sahin, i think it might be best that i use the biggleometer bullsh*t video testing equipment to conduct more rigorous examination of these claims. I should warn you that if i do see improved growth and colors it's highly likely i'll lie and say it's crap just so i'm the only one who gets great growth and colors.............:celeb1:
The second video had heaps of flubber in it so it's not really relevant to the reef keeping hobby imo - that's all i have to say about that. :hmm2:
It sucks here too Sahin, i can't get chili or i'd definitely be using it with the reef roids, cyclop-eeze and the mysis mush. The polyp booster has only recently become legal to import and the only other things available are all those garbage bottled snow type products which i found to do nothing at all over the years - i tried lots of those products years ago when that was all there was to buy. The paper you posted points out a few of the ones i tried btw. In the end i discovered mysis mush and that was the main thing i targeted the acros with. Nowdays they get three course dining lol.

[small_polyp]

great thread! thanks for outtng so much work in :)
The issue ive always had with feeding my acros..and ive gone thru several phases with it over the years..is a point of diminishing returns. How much excess nutrients we are putting in our systems versus the added benefits. Im am in no way saying its not beneficial, but in the same breath ive seen enough tanks with amazing growth and coloration never fed.
In the long run..as in months or years and not weeks..if ones system can handle the nutrients more power to ya IMO but am important thing is checking, tracking,and testing to see the long term effects.
These reefs we have are around a long time (hopefully :hmm3:) and many times long term effects dot show them-selves until a RTN event or a crash.

[trueblackpercula]

These reefs we have are around a long time (hopefully :hmm3:) and many times long term effects dot show them-selves until a RTN event or a crash.

Tell me about it Lol but with the correct nutrient import and export all is possable.

[biggles]

great thread! thanks for outtng so much work in :)
The issue ive always had with feeding my acros..and ive gone thru several phases with it over the years..is a point of diminishing returns. How much excess nutrients we are putting in our systems versus the added benefits. Im am in no way saying its not beneficial, but in the same breath ive seen enough tanks with amazing growth and coloration never fed.
In the long run..as in months or years and not weeks..if ones system can handle the nutrients more power to ya IMO but am important thing is checking, tracking,and testing to see the long term effects.
These reefs we have are around a long time (hopefully :hmm3:) and many times long term effects dot show them-selves until a RTN event or a crash.

As with everything we do mate, caution and good monitoring is needed - SPS don't usually forgive and forget lol.

Tell me about it Lol but with the correct nutrient import and export all is possable.

Nicely put Michael :)


Got the Polyp-Booster today - the quickest acro to look like he was on crack for corals was the SSC and he took a good 60 seconds to get all jiggy with his mesenterial filaments. Obviously this means it's no good so don't anyone go out and buy the stuff.............. :p i tried to put out the polyp fire with a dose of reef roids but that just made things worse.......... there's no stopping doped up acros once they get the munchies so you better have some food to give 'em.

Used the flash on the phone as i couldn't wait until lights out so i turned all the lights off except for the two B+ T5's at the front. Had just added another WP-25 and cleaned the other pumps so the acros weren't too happy to start lol. Tomorrow i'll wait until lights out when everything is polyped up as normal and then add the polyp booster. The two closeups were just B+ but you can still see the obvious reaction. Lots of 'sperimenting' coming up which will be much less spur of the moment and better recorded ;).


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[trueblackpercula]

Mr. Big

I love the videos but are you joking when you say that when you see mesenterial filaments that's a bad thing? They reason I ask is when I feed oyster feast every other night 3mls most if not all my acros do that. Seriously is this a good thing or bad thing?
Thanks

[biggles]

Lol hey mate, yes i was joking. I was very impressed with the positive reaction and the clown even gulped the stuff down so i'm pretty sure it's good stuff and not an annoyance reaction. Those filaments increase the acros food catching ability which is why i added the reef roids. :) If the oyster food prompts that reaction then i believe your on a winner there too but i don't have access to that stuff to try myself unfortunately.

[trueblackpercula]

Lol hey mate, yes i was joking. I was very impressed with the positive reaction and the clown even gulped the stuff down so i'm pretty sure it's good stuff and not an annoyance reaction. Those filaments increase the acros food catching ability which is why i added the reef roids. :) If the oyster food prompts that reaction then i believe your on a winner there too but i don't have access to that stuff to try myself unfortunately.

Lol very funny. Here is a better source of food the oyster feast that you can make seeing you can't get oyster feast in the land of down under. I plan on starting this food once my oyster feast is completed.

Blu coral method

Materials:
5 Oysters
5 Mussels
5 Clams
5 Shrimp (NOT cocktail shrimp, the big scampi type w/o the head and the shell)
1 Tablespoon of Sugar (not corn syrup, etc.)
200 mL of RO/DI water
10 g of Red Algae

[trueblackpercula]

Here is the rest of the method and the Italians sure have some crazy looking acroporas.

Pappone Recipe “ Italian Coral Food (Updated 1/14/2007)

Materials:
5 Oysters
5 Mussels
5 Clams
5 Shrimp (NOT cocktail shrimp, the big scampi type w/o the head and the shell)
1 Tablespoon of Sugar (not corn syrup, etc.)
200 mL of RO/DI water
10 g of Red Algae (Palmaria palmata; Bisck uses Julian Sprung's brand)
and/or 10 g of Spirulina, 10 g of Nori (spirulina is what Bisck prefers)

Methods: Make SURE that all ingredients are the freshest possible and DO NOT use frozen foods (unless it is impossible for you). Make sure everything "live" is rinsed and cleaned before putting it into the blender. Put all the ingredients into the blender and blend for 5 min, wait 2 min for it to cool, 5 more min blending, 2 min of waiting again, then finally another 5 min of blending (the pausing is so that the solution doesn't get too hot and "cook" from the heat of the blender/blades). Pour into cube forms (approx 10 mL each). Then freeze it all—you want to minimize how long everything is at room temperature.

Procedure: One hour prior to turning off your lights, you have the option of adding Amino acids to the tank*. (For example, 11pm Halides off, add AA’s, 12am, actinics off, then add pappone). Take off the cup of your skimmer, but leave the skimmer running (so you don’t have a massive drop in O2 levels overnight). After the lights are off, start with only a ¼ of a cube per WEEK for every 400 L of tank water (approx 100 gallons). Be sure to measure NO3 and PO4 the next morning so that these parameters don't spike after feeding. You can reduce the amount fed if you are having nutrient problems. Also don’t forget to put the skimmer cup back on the next morning before the lights go back on.

*If everything is going well. It is good to wait and see how the tank is doing for awhile before trying this. The whole point here is that you don't want to change anything too fast, because nothing good happens quickly in this hobby. (Another method to grind up amino acid pills in the next batch of food; however Bisck found that it sometimes causes diatom outbreaks in his tank


And here are there tanks.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=971190

[dr.big]

Here is the rest of the method and the Italians sure have some crazy looking acroporas.

Pappone Recipe “ Italian Coral Food (Updated 1/14/2007)

Materials:
5 Oysters
5 Mussels
5 Clams
5 Shrimp (NOT cocktail shrimp, the big scampi type w/o the head and the shell)
1 Tablespoon of Sugar (not corn syrup, etc.)
200 mL of RO/DI water
10 g of Red Algae (Palmaria palmata; Bisck uses Julian Sprung's brand)
and/or 10 g of Spirulina, 10 g of Nori (spirulina is what Bisck prefers)

Methods: Make SURE that all ingredients are the freshest possible and DO NOT use frozen foods (unless it is impossible for you). Make sure everything "live" is rinsed and cleaned before putting it into the blender. Put all the ingredients into the blender and blend for 5 min, wait 2 min for it to cool, 5 more min blending, 2 min of waiting again, then finally another 5 min of blending (the pausing is so that the solution doesn't get too hot and "cook" from the heat of the blender/blades). Pour into cube forms (approx 10 mL each). Then freeze it all—you want to minimize how long everything is at room temperature.

Procedure: One hour prior to turning off your lights, you have the option of adding Amino acids to the tank*. (For example, 11pm Halides off, add AA’s, 12am, actinics off, then add pappone). Take off the cup of your skimmer, but leave the skimmer running (so you don’t have a massive drop in O2 levels overnight). After the lights are off, start with only a ¼ of a cube per WEEK for every 400 L of tank water (approx 100 gallons). Be sure to measure NO3 and PO4 the next morning so that these parameters don't spike after feeding. You can reduce the amount fed if you are having nutrient problems. Also don’t forget to put the skimmer cup back on the next morning before the lights go back on.

*If everything is going well. It is good to wait and see how the tank is doing for awhile before trying this. The whole point here is that you don't want to change anything too fast, because nothing good happens quickly in this hobby. (Another method to grind up amino acid pills in the next batch of food; however Bisck found that it sometimes causes diatom outbreaks in his tank


And here are there tanks.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=971190

great recipe, but i recently read here on RC that it would be better to feed during the day to not get in the way of the calcification. What you guys think about it?

[Fail_sh3d]

great recipe, but i recently read here on RC that it would be better to feed during the day to not get in the way of the calcification. What you guys think about it?

I have read that, but I don't see the feeders out during the day. I only feed corals at night. My corals have never shown stunted growth because of this. I feed based off of when I see the strongest signs of "hunger" in my sps.

[Allmost]

the polyps booster stuff is really good, I love it.

Reef roid was first made to feed goniopora, hobbists started using it for acros and ... quite interesting. so now maybe polyps booster would work well on gonioporas lol

[Dukester]

I feed my corals food in the daylight hours.. Only because the fish are out and they go nuts for all the foods and get riled up and release even more food back into the water.

[small_polyp]

[QUOTE=biggles;22206932]As with everything we do mate, caution and good monitoring is needed - SPS don't usually forgive and forget lol.

I couldnt agree more. Again nice work and great job on the tank

[Chriskid]

Here is the rest of the method and the Italians sure have some crazy looking acroporas.

Pappone Recipe “ Italian Coral Food (Updated 1/14/2007)

Materials:
5 Oysters
5 Mussels
5 Clams
5 Shrimp (NOT cocktail shrimp, the big scampi type w/o the head and the shell)
1 Tablespoon of Sugar (not corn syrup, etc.)
200 mL of RO/DI water
10 g of Red Algae (Palmaria palmata; Bisck uses Julian Sprung's brand)
and/or 10 g of Spirulina, 10 g of Nori (spirulina is what Bisck prefers)

Methods: Make SURE that all ingredients are the freshest possible and DO NOT use frozen foods (unless it is impossible for you). Make sure everything "live" is rinsed and cleaned before putting it into the blender. Put all the ingredients into the blender and blend for 5 min, wait 2 min for it to cool, 5 more min blending, 2 min of waiting again, then finally another 5 min of blending (the pausing is so that the solution doesn't get too hot and "cook" from the heat of the blender/blades). Pour into cube forms (approx 10 mL each). Then freeze it all—you want to minimize how long everything is at room temperature.

Procedure: One hour prior to turning off your lights, you have the option of adding Amino acids to the tank*. (For example, 11pm Halides off, add AA’s, 12am, actinics off, then add pappone). Take off the cup of your skimmer, but leave the skimmer running (so you don’t have a massive drop in O2 levels overnight). After the lights are off, start with only a ¼ of a cube per WEEK for every 400 L of tank water (approx 100 gallons). Be sure to measure NO3 and PO4 the next morning so that these parameters don't spike after feeding. You can reduce the amount fed if you are having nutrient problems. Also don’t forget to put the skimmer cup back on the next morning before the lights go back on.

*If everything is going well. It is good to wait and see how the tank is doing for awhile before trying this. The whole point here is that you don't want to change anything too fast, because nothing good happens quickly in this hobby. (Another method to grind up amino acid pills in the next batch of food; however Bisck found that it sometimes causes diatom outbreaks in his tank


And here are there tanks.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=971190

i also use similar recipe, love it. i blend again after freezing with some more ro water.

[trueblackpercula]

i also use similar recipe, love it. i blend again after freezing with some more ro water.

Can you show some results?

[Chriskid]

Can you show some results?
i guess ill have to prove it...lol ill see if i can get good enough video to post. however just like you said , after amino's , and at night. i do see a reaction, to what i think is beneficial. i started using this recipe, or close , (also called papona) that i heard from "Joe Berger" i believe. this was around 2008~ or 9.

[trueblackpercula]

i guess ill have to prove it...lol ill see if i can get good enough video to post. however just like you said , after amino's , and at night. i do see a reaction, to what i think is beneficial. i started using this recipe, or close , (also called papona) that i heard from "Joe Berger" i believe. this was around 2008~ or 9.

No need to prove it as I know it works, just wanted to see how it's working for you. Yes this is from a thread in 2007 from Italy

[Chriskid]

No need to prove it as I know it works, just wanted to see how it's working for you. Yes this is from a thread in 2007 from Italy

all i can say is use in moderation, as im sure you know. i only use when i feel it will be beneficial. i feed like monthly if that, but no ill affects from my doseage yet. looks like 5~6 years. i also feed BB , and tibsi pods daily so i couldnt ever speak for sure on outcome of only this recipe, to many variables to speak with proven fact. but my honest opinion, "love it" . just to add i also feed fish only fresh/or frozen food chopped daily from the market.

[biggles]

Lol very funny. Here is a better source of food the oyster feast that you can make seeing you can't get oyster feast in the land of down under. I plan on starting this food once my oyster feast is completed.

Blu coral method

Materials:
5 Oysters
5 Mussels
5 Clams
5 Shrimp (NOT cocktail shrimp, the big scampi type w/o the head and the shell)
1 Tablespoon of Sugar (not corn syrup, etc.)
200 mL of RO/DI water
10 g of Red Algae

Thanks very much for sharing this recipe and the other variations Michael. :thumbsup: I used a similar recipe in my previous tank when foods such as reef roids etc weren't available. I tried all the bottled liquid 'snow' type products and they did nothing for the acros nutrition imo. The only thing i would not include is the sugar, i'm going to get a little blender and make up the mix substituting the sugar for reef roids, cyclop-eeze and polyp booster - i expect to lose a couple of acros when feeding this mix as i'm pretty sure i'll witness ' explosive PE ' - they just get too excited and BANG ! :p

I have read that, but I don't see the feeders out during the day. I only feed corals at night. My corals have never shown stunted growth because of this. I feed based off of when I see the strongest signs of "hunger" in my sps.

I do the same mate, i do feed once during daylight but the rest of the coral feeds happen after lights out.

the polyps booster stuff is really good, I love it.

Reef roid was first made to feed goniopora, hobbists started using it for acros and ... quite interesting. so now maybe polyps booster would work well on gonioporas lol

Glad to hear i'm not the only one dealing acro crack to my reef lol - it's bloody impressive stuff imo.
I didn't know that about the reef roids, to be entirely honest i was pretty jaded about artificial SPS foods from my 'snow' days and was surprised at the results when i tested these new ones - canned SPS foods that i can actually see being consumed by my acros. I don't say to anyone that all you need to do is feed reef roids etc to see healthy vibrantly colored SPS but in my opinion when you have everything else squared away such as lighting, your nutrient balance and parameter stablity you will see visible benefits to feeding foods that are proven to be taken by SPS corals.

all i can say is use in moderation, as im sure you know. i only use when i feel it will be beneficial. i feed like monthly if that, but no ill affects from my doseage yet. looks like 5~6 years. i also feed BB , and tibsi pods daily so i couldnt ever speak for sure on outcome of only this recipe, to many variables to speak with proven fact. but my honest opinion, "love it" . just to add i also feed fish only fresh/or frozen food chopped daily from the market.

Agree entirely mate, the foods we are discussing and talking about are very potent in regards to nutrient addition and need to be used cautiously. It requires patience to allow your reef system time to adjust to small increases in food addition over time so as not to overwhelm the bio filtration. :beer:


The whole point of this thread is to find some foods that everyone has access to which after testing by us - not labs or those selling the stuff, can be used with confidence knowing that they will give you the results that everyone chases as long as you get the whole reef balancing act right. Of course there are other ways to achieve success but the same principles apply, i only use a skimmer and passive GFO (bags in sump) with the reef doing all the hard bio filtration work and feed the fish and corals so it's pretty simple and the less stuff you use the less there is to go wrong. Berlin + correct food works. Using the correct foods will also work with many other types of reef methodologies so having a list of 'proven to us' SPS foods will be a good thing. It's going to be 2014 in a few days and we can clone sheep and stuff for petes sake so how about we agree on what to feed our bloody acros. :deadhorse1: A fellow reefer reminded me today that it's about time we come up with a safe and proven recipe for the masses that is proven - thanks Jack :thumbsup:

In any SPS thread there should always be gratuitous acro pics and i don't see why this thread is any different so............

This is the regular night PE of a few acros, the crab is called Lefty after he and i disagreed on what is and isn't crab food - the issue of stylo munching came up and that's when things became quite heated and at some point Lefty threw himself at the sharp chisel i just happened to be waving in the tank thus severing a claw.......... we both calmed down and a few weeks later Lefty molted and resumed only eating algae. He's afraid of the fish (and chisels) and i keep a close eye on what he gets up to but he's so butt ugly he's cool lol.

http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a553/BigglesRC/lefty_zps64f14835.png~original

[trueblackpercula]

Thanks very much for sharing this recipe and the other variations Michael. :thumbsup: I used a similar recipe in my previous tank when foods such as reef roids etc weren't available. I tried all the bottled liquid 'snow' type products and they did nothing for the acros nutrition imo. The only thing i would not include is the sugar,
http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a553/BigglesRC/lefty_zps64f14835.png~original

Yes biggles I had also question the sugar and I was told it's like dosing vodka to keep the PO4 and Nitrates down. They food is high powered and loaded with nutrients so the suger balances it out I was told.

But the recipe you are going to make sounds very interesting and should work better then expected. Also looking forward to seeing something new that will help In the keeping of Sps.

B the way I never posts a video of the Sps feeding on prime reef flake food. It was amazing to see the acros reaction as they really reacted positive to it, better then some of the other acro foods.

But to date the one that has given the best results in my experiments was liquefied mysis shrimp, flake food, coral V power and lastly was oyster feast. But out of all of the the oyster feast when added in large concentrations 3mls added to my 120 gallon tank made the Sps give out there crazy looking stingers.

So my next will be the home made pappone but from what I have read they add amino acids to the water first then feed with pumps off when lights go out. It will be very challenging for me to follow this as my lights go out at 1030 pm.

But I think a sacrifice will need to be taken here to see if this stuff really works. The is one more Ingrediant that I did not post because lots debates was caused and it is HGH that the Italians used In this food. Not only is it expensive but in is illegal to have here unless prescribed by a doctor, so I didn't included the dosage amount.

But below is the full story;
And an article about the BC method by SiR:

The Blu Coral Method

Many people have the opportunity to see the magnificent tanks managed with this method and many others are interested in learning about it. The creator of this method was Maurizio Manili, who thanks to the collaboration with other passionate reefers, succeeded to bring the method to its current point. Today, the BC method was inherited from Valerio Pacetti, the owner of the actual Blu Coral shop in Rome, and ex-associate of Maurizio Manili, who as of now improved the old consolidated method with a few modifications. This article will talk about how the method functions and how to succeed in augmenting the growth of corals. First two big distinctions must be made: if you want to manage a tank by utilizing the simple “pappone� (coral food) or if you want to follow the BC method exactly to the letter. The base of both systems of management is the same and involves: the classic Berlin Method, good water chemistry, and the pappone feedings.

Classic Berlin Method:

The Berlin Method is characterized by strong lighting, strong water movement, an efficient skimmer, and live rock.

Water Chemistry:

You must give particular attention to this aspect, which leads to positive results for all types of management of the BC method. In particular, the parameters of the water are maintained in concentrations that are elevated in respect to parameters that are successful in nature: Magnesium 1500 mg/L, Calcium 500 mg/L, Strontium 16-30 mg/L, Carbonate Hardness (dkH) 12-14 mg/L, Iodine 0.06 mg/L, and nutrients near zero. This allows the corals at any moment to have the necessary materials for constructing their skeletons and therefore they have a sort of “reserve� of chemical elements.

Pappone:

This is the difference that determines the distinction between who follows the method to the letter or instead who utilizes only some parts. However in general, the pappone is identical in both of the methods, and is prepared in this way: you use mollusks that are strictly fresh. In general, you use 5 mussels, 5 clams, 5 shrimp, and 5 oysters. You put all of these into a container (no shells, just meat), then add 250 mL of RO water, then add 1 tablespoon of sugar, however some also use fructose. Then you blend everything vigorously until the whole mixture reaches the consistency of cream. At this point is the distinction between who uses the method to the letter and who instead does not. In the BC method, the pappone is enriched in respect to the original recipe, with the polypeptide hormone somatropin or GH. In general, you use about 1.33 mg of somatropin, which corresponds to the 4 unit vial. You then mix and prepare the cubes, then put them away in the freezer.

GH, what is it?

GH or Somatropin, is a human polypeptide of small dimensions, that presents a noticeably different structure in different species. It is therefore derived with an elevated biological specificity, in the sense that the GH from one species is in general completely different and therefore inactive in others; in the case of humans, the only one that has any effect is from simian GH (mainly in Rhesus monkeys). Vice-versa, human GH acts only in simians and not in non-primate organisms. The sequence of 191 amino acids is in a linear chain that carries out two fundamentally important actions in humans: the growth of the body, and the regulation of cellular metabolism, specifically that of protein synthesis. To summarize, GH does not act on other mammals, and obviously does not act on invertebrates. This is simply demonstrated by the fact that the hormone in question, in order to be utilized, requires specific receptors on the cellular membrane of the target cell on which it acts. Obviously the corals and other invertebrates do not have these correct receptors, because if they did have them, it would mean that they use GH in the same manner-- an improbable phenomenon.

The Enhanced Growth…

How are you then able to explain the enhanced growth and the increase in metabolism of the corals in conjunction with the increase in calcification?

In experience, this does happen. A few of the more skilled aquarists who utilize this method, had growth of A. Formosa, A. cervicornis, A. nobilis, Montipora sp. , up to 40cm per year. Also M. foliosa, LPS, and soft corals grew in an impressive manner.

I made up my mind about what could be happening in the water. Therefore the precise but short explanation will be following the fruits of my labor and my observations; however that does not mean that is it is the absolute truth. The explanation will be sought for in the typical structural and molecular characteristics of the GH. Being a protein that is small enough, it is very probable that the GH put in the pappone breaks up. This is the point of the discussion. It is not the integral GH that acts directly on the corals, because of the points explained above are very improbable. It likely is based on the GH being broken, which influences the growth and the increased metabolism.
At the time in which we go to feed our corals with pappone, we are in reality adding many amino acids into the water. In fact, when the protein is broken, it is split into many pieces—its amino acid constituents. Therefore the abundance of determined and specified amino acids are involved the increased rate of growth.

This is the only explanation which arose after many different observations. In this way it is effectively possible to explain, from a biological point of view, how the GH is able to influence the corals.

These amino acids that are introduced with the GH are combined with the amino acids that are usually dosed around 2 hours before the pappone feeding, in order to encourage assimilation.

The rest of the components of the pappone (mussels, clams, etc.) go to feed the bacterial cultures, the sponges, and all of the benthic organisms, which thus go to feed the corals. If you succeed in having a situation where you maximize the feeding corals, you then have the possibility of having maximum calcification, seeing that you have an abundance of nutrition and chemical components. This whole discussion obviously does not regard the fish, which are not influenced by the abundance or lack of amino acids present in water; in effect the fish have absolutely normal rates of growth.

In general, one of the aspects that characterize the Blu Coral Method is that after the system stabilizes, you have a reduction of general nutrients that remains near zero, in regards to the phosphates and the nitrates. The whole system helps the intake of amino acids. It is especially important at the beginning for everyone to find the appropriate dose of pappone to administer to the tank. A fundamental rule is to watch your animals and understand how much feeding they need.

I hope to have clarified this subject a little more, because between all methods, this is one of the best methods of managing a reef tank, whether you utilize the GH, or if you take the basics of this method without using the hormone. Good wishes to all the readers of the Magazine and see you soon!

The author of the article, the aquarists mentioned in this article, and reefitalia.net are not responsible for inappropriate use of the hormone; from a legal standpoint, by the use of whoever decides to proceed. We are also not responsible for any negative outcomes to your tank or animals.

Fabio Oggiano aka SiR
(Translated by DarkXerox)

Copyright 2007 ReefItalia.net

Below is the tank water and what HGH was used.
Yeah I've been following the BC (Blu Coral) method and I'm trying to figure out what I can about it. As for the food, I think they are using a lot of omega-3 fatty acid rich things. They really emphasize the need for overskimming when doing this.

You add the amino acids (something like gylcine, proline, and glutamine)something like 4 hours before adding the cubes. I also read about the same as you did:

Target Params:
iodine 0.06
ca 500
mg 1500
sr 30
ph 8.5
kh 12

Recipe by Maurizio
5 mussels
5 clams
5 oysters
5 shrimp
1 pill of somatropin
a spoon of fructose
250mL of RO water

Then freeze it after blending it into the consistency of milk. 1 cube a week per 800 liters of water. You have to stop the skimmer for 2 hours after this though, but leave circulation pumps on of course. However I don't know how big the cubes are, but apparently you can get 52 total. I'll check on this. But apparently the pill costs something like €80, which is crazy.

[jackson6745]

The eat reef nutrition "ROE" pretty well.

[sahin]

Bloomin heck Biggles...Your corals are too colourful for this thread. :lol: I think you are in the wrong thread LOL. Seriously mate, those corals are bloomin colourful!
http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a553/BigglesRC/lefty_zps64f14835.png~original

Here is a sample of your tank shots from around March 2013.
http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a553/BigglesRC/x3a_zpsbc32e0e1.png
http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a553/BigglesRC/x1a_zps8edaf1df.png
http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a553/BigglesRC/td6_zps404dc592.png
AP.pril 2013
http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a553/BigglesRC/IMG_1848_zpse308ef43.png

By and large I can see some nice colours as well as a few corals that were quite brown.

You started to feed Reef Roids towards to end of Feb 2013.

End of Feb you added a skimmer. You also started to dose Reef Roids.

Here is a photo posted 7th May 2013:
http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a553/BigglesRC/t11_zpsffbd001a.png

I am trying to understand how you got from your corals looking like above to what you have now...even in May 2013, you had SPS colour most of us would love to have.

Is it the Radium? Is it the feeding? I wish I knew the answer mate. :facepalm:

I am trying to believe it is the food...Is it as easy as that?

I have started to really feed my fishes...I used to only need to clean the glass once every 7-8 days...now I am needing to clean the glass every other day...I get a light dusting on the glass very quickly now.

One thing I have realised is that I have done everything most reefers do in respect of SPS:

1. Have good lights
2. Have very low PO4 and NO3
3. Carry out weekly water changes
4. Have good flow (two MP10's in a 47G)
5. Have stable parameters and close to NSW
6. Have a decent skimmer

The one thing I havent done is concentrate as much effort on feeding. In fact in all this time, I have kept a record of main parameters, water changes logs etc etc...

But feeding was the one thing I didnt look at. In fact I went the opposite direction...and fed as little as possible.

So, now feeding Mysis mush and Reef Roids to my corals, as well as an assortment of Mysis, Flake food and Spirulina enriched Brineshrimp to my fishes...will I see a such colours as you have Biggles? :hmm2:

[Chriskid]

I'm not trying to hijack this thread by any means but what does the target parameters have to do with feeding, how does one reach in acclinically of 12 without burning in the calcification process?

[sirreal63]

This thread needs a little bump. :D

I am glad to see more people embracing the idea of feeding their SPS, it has been long overdue. I have been using a modified Borneman recipe since the end of 2005 or the beginning of 2006, I don't remember exactly. My recipe changes every time I make it, but the basics are the same. Fresh seafood in as much variety as I can find. I prefer to use Whole Foods because they use no preservatives or any other additives. I also usually add blood worms, frozen Cyclopeaze, and a variety of frozen foods in addition to a large quantity of PE Mysis. About a fourth of all the ingredients are blended into as fine of a mush as possible and the rest cut into small pieces the fish can eat. None of the frozen items are rinsed.

The whole tank turns cloudy from the mix and I feed a teaspoon every hour or so throughout the day until it is all gone. I don't turn the flow off or down, this ensures that the entire tank gets some. This is a typical result with SPS. Not all of them throw out the filaments but the majority do.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/sirreal63/110%20DSA%20Pentagon/Corals/DSCF2557wbf_zps55241bb8.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/sirreal63/110%20DSA%20Pentagon/Corals/DSCF2560wbf_zps69a5c829.jpg

You can see some of the cloudiness in the water and the tank stays cloudy pretty much all day. The skimmer completely shuts down for a few hours until I stop feeding. I feed this mix every two or three days but have gone about a week in between feedings before.

It should be noted that it has taken me over a year to get the tank's bio-diversity high enough to feed as much as I do of this mix. You shouldn't just dump a lot of food into the tank without having enough life to consume it and that takes time to build up. I like the methods being described in this thread because it isn't a lot of food but the results can be seen with even small feedings.

Some of the benefits of feeding the mush has been amazing sponge growth as well as pods, bristle worms and micro stars. I can take virtually any piece of rock out and the bottom is covered in sponges.

[biggles]

Bloomin heck Biggles...Your corals are too colourful for this thread. :lol: I think you are in the wrong thread LOL. Seriously mate, those corals are bloomin colourful!

Here is a sample of your tank shots from around March 2013.
http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a553/BigglesRC/x3a_zpsbc32e0e1.png

By and large I can see some nice colours as well as a few corals that were quite brown.

You started to feed Reef Roids towards to end of Feb 2013.

End of Feb you added a skimmer. You also started to dose Reef Roids.

Here is a photo posted 7th May 2013:
http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a553/BigglesRC/t11_zpsffbd001a.png

I am trying to understand how you got from your corals looking like above to what you have now...even in May 2013, you had SPS colour most of us would love to have.

Is it the Radium? Is it the feeding? I wish I knew the answer mate.

I am trying to believe it is the food...Is it as easy as that?

I have started to really feed my fishes...I used to only need to clean the glass once every 7-8 days...now I am needing to clean the glass every other day...I get a light dusting on the glass very quickly now.

One thing I have realised is that I have done everything most reefers do in respect of SPS:

1. Have good lights
2. Have very low PO4 and NO3
3. Carry out weekly water changes
4. Have good flow (two MP10's in a 47G)
5. Have stable parameters and close to NSW
6. Have a decent skimmer

The one thing I havent done is concentrate as much effort on feeding. In fact in all this time, I have kept a record of main parameters, water changes logs etc etc...

But feeding was the one thing I didnt look at. In fact I went the opposite direction...and fed as little as possible.

So, now feeding Mysis mush and Reef Roids to my corals, as well as an assortment of Mysis, Flake food and Spirulina enriched Brineshrimp to my fishes...will I see a such colours as you have Biggles? :hmm2:

That pic you're referring to was a night flash shot so it's not really a good indication of what you see when the lights are on :cool: Those older pics are over saturated and most stuff i was buying early days were left over duds that to me looked fine as i was used to very ordinary stock when i last had a tank, everything was green which is why i still have a thing about green acros lol.
I returned a couple of those early acros when i realised what was actually being supplied if i got to the LFS early enough - i got real picky about acro colors really quickly ;) You can see the tank was still algae cycling and i basically starved the tank for many weeks but for RO top up so everything was a tad washed out and hungry. You can see that even over saturated the colors are very pale on the corals compared to the colors i have now. You can see the obvious color change in the big green acro in just a couple of months when i was feeding the tank and in better control of the nutrient cycle in my tank.
The Radium is a 'guarantee'd to color everything up' light bulb for SPS and has been for many years. If you run Radiums and are not seeing good colors on 90% of your acros it's your water conditions. Radiums are not the only light that works very well but for me using it removes entirely any doubt as to what is wrong if colors go off, i know it's my water so locating and correcting the problem is much quicker. :)
I clean the glass every 2-3 days and it's a pain but for me the longer between cleans the less color saturation on my acros. Atm my acros are a tad wishy washy because me being the idiot i am i was growing a heap of red macro in the sump just because it looked cool and also running 8 tablespoons of Rowaphos in two bags instead of 4 in a single bag. I realised something was up when the glass stayed clean for 4 days and a couple of high light acros suddenly had the odd burnt tip here and there - i've over stripped the phos to billyoh. Removed a GFO bag, pruned the algae and turned the halide back to 4 hours a day to stop any more tip burns until i get the water 'dirty' again.
It's not simply feeding the corals, it's feeding and managing conditions within the entire mini ecosystem you have in the tank. I feed the tank rather than feed the corals really as i want the tank to do most of the coral feeding 24/7 not just when i dump some goodies in there. Jack describes it very well below when he talks about developing as much bio diversity as possible and allowing the system to adapt to your slowly increased feeding levels.
If you stick with it and look at the rocks and critters more than the acros for signs of increased life and diversity i'm sure you'll see good results Sahin.
You said it yourself, you're doing everything right but not seeing great results. We know your ATI hybrid works so what's left - a hungry reef i think mate. The foods you're using now will do the job well in both feeding the acros directly and also every other critter that reproduces in your reef.

I'm not trying to hijack this thread by any means but what does the target parameters have to do with feeding, how does one reach in acclinically of 12 without burning in the calcification process?

I don't get that crazy high alk level either mate, over 9 and i start to see trouble.

This thread needs a little bump. :D

I am glad to see more people embracing the idea of feeding their SPS, it has been long overdue. I have been using a modified Borneman recipe since the end of 2005 or the beginning of 2006, I don't remember exactly. My recipe changes every time I make it, but the basics are the same. Fresh seafood in as much variety as I can find. I prefer to use Whole Foods because they use no preservatives or any other additives. I also usually add blood worms, frozen Cyclopeaze, and a variety of frozen foods in addition to a large quantity of PE Mysis. About a fourth of all the ingredients are blended into as fine of a mush as possible and the rest cut into small pieces the fish can eat. None of the frozen items are rinsed.

The whole tank turns cloudy from the mix and I feed a teaspoon every hour or so throughout the day until it is all gone. I don't turn the flow off or down, this ensures that the entire tank gets some. This is a typical result with SPS. Not all of them throw out the filaments but the majority do.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/sirreal63/110%20DSA%20Pentagon/Corals/DSCF2560wbf_zps69a5c829.jpg

You can see some of the cloudiness in the water and the tank stays cloudy pretty much all day. The skimmer completely shuts down for a few hours until I stop feeding. I feed this mix every two or three days but have gone about a week in between feedings before.

It should be noted that it has taken me over a year to get the tank's bio-diversity high enough to feed as much as I do of this mix. You shouldn't just dump a lot of food into the tank without having enough life to consume it and that takes time to build up. I like the methods being described in this thread because it isn't a lot of food but the results can be seen with even small feedings.

Some of the benefits of feeding the mush has been amazing sponge growth as well as pods, bristle worms and micro stars. I can take virtually any piece of rock out and the bottom is covered in sponges.

Thanks for the bump Jack and those pics which clearly show the mass filament reaction to food in the water. I think any meaty seafood that's pulverized down to a particle size small enough for an acro polyp to grab and consume is a winner. I leave all the pumps on and just turn the skimmer off when feeding so the food can cycle through the entire system from sump to display for a hour or so before turning it back on. If i ran socks all the time i would kill the return for an hour but i don't so the return stays on.
Glad you highlighted the need for caution when building up the reef life with increased feeding mate, rushing will just overwhelm the bio filtration and see poopy acros and lots of algae in my experience. :hammer:

[sahin]

That pic you're referring to was a night flash shot so it's not really a good indication of what you see when the lights are on :cool: Those older pics are over saturated and most stuff i was buying early days were left over duds that to me looked fine as i was used to very ordinary stock when i last had a tank, everything was green which is why i still have a thing about green acros lol.
I returned a couple of those early acros when i realised what was actually being supplied if i got to the LFS early enough - i got real picky about acro colors really quickly ;) You can see the tank was still algae cycling and i basically starved the tank for many weeks but for RO top up so everything was a tad washed out and hungry. You can see that even over saturated the colors are very pale on the corals compared to the colors i have now. You can see the obvious color change in the big green acro in just a couple of months when i was feeding the tank and in better control of the nutrient cycle in my tank.
The Radium is a 'guarantee'd to color everything up' light bulb for SPS and has been for many years. If you run Radiums and are not seeing good colors on 90% of your acros it's your water conditions. Radiums are not the only light that works very well but for me using it removes entirely any doubt as to what is wrong if colors go off, i know it's my water so locating and correcting the problem is much quicker. :)
I clean the glass every 2-3 days and it's a pain but for me the longer between cleans the less color saturation on my acros. Atm my acros are a tad wishy washy because me being the idiot i am i was growing a heap of red macro in the sump just because it looked cool and also running 8 tablespoons of Rowaphos in two bags instead of 4 in a single bag. I realised something was up when the glass stayed clean for 4 days and a couple of high light acros suddenly had the odd burnt tip here and there - i've over stripped the phos to billyoh. Removed a GFO bag, pruned the algae and turned the halide back to 4 hours a day to stop any more tip burns until i get the water 'dirty' again.
It's not simply feeding the corals, it's feeding and managing conditions within the entire mini ecosystem you have in the tank. I feed the tank rather than feed the corals really as i want the tank to do most of the coral feeding 24/7 not just when i dump some goodies in there. Jack describes it very well below when he talks about developing as much bio diversity as possible and allowing the system to adapt to your slowly increased feeding levels.
If you stick with it and look at the rocks and critters more than the acros for signs of increased life and diversity i'm sure you'll see good results Sahin.
You said it yourself, you're doing everything right but not seeing great results. We know your ATI hybrid works so what's left - a hungry reef i think mate. The foods you're using now will do the job well in both feeding the acros directly and also every other critter that reproduces in your reef.



I don't get that crazy high alk level either mate, over 9 and i start to see trouble.



Thanks for the bump Jack and those pics which clearly show the mass filament reaction to food in the water. I think any meaty seafood that's pulverized down to a particle size small enough for an acro polyp to grab and consume is a winner. I leave all the pumps on and just turn the skimmer off when feeding so the food can cycle through the entire system from sump to display for a hour or so before turning it back on. If i ran socks all the time i would kill the return for an hour but i don't so the return stays on.
Glad you highlighted the need for caution when building up the reef life with increased feeding mate, rushing will just overwhelm the bio filtration and see poopy acros and lots of algae in my experience. :hammer:

Thanks mate. :thumbsup:

I have started to see these tiny white dots moving on the glass, so I guess the increased feeding has led to an increase in the critter/pod numbers.

I will take it slowly and increase the food that goes into the tank.

Thanks for EVERYONES input into this thread.

[biggles]

I'm glad you mentioned the tiny white dots on the glass because when i can see the light brown hue to the display glass from the brown algae i also notice the mandarin spend a lot of time picking happily on the glass eating things i can't actually see with a naked eye. I always forget to get the macro phone lens out when the time is right to see just what the mandarin is snacking on from the glass algae.
In the next few weeks i want to macro video acro feeding with the Polyp-Booster and nori since i notice acros in the display catching tiny bits and holding on to them like they do with full size mysis. I still need to get myself a bloody blender so i can shred everything that needs it down to a smaller particle size. I want to start making my own potent SPS food by mixing all the ones i've tested with positive results and use now with a meaty blend such as Jack is using. A bit like having your entree, main and desert all blended together and tipped over your head by the waiter - that's the way to feed corals :thumbsup:

[trueblackpercula]

Hello everyone and hope the new year is going well for all. So I have one more feeding left of the oyster feast left that I will use today. Tomorrow I am off to the fish store to make the pappone food and see what pictures I can post.

It's amazing some of the results that can be had with feeding the correct foods to out Sps.

Stay tuned for the next installment of macro lens videos

Michael.

[sirreal63]

Michael, use Whole Foods for the fresh seafood, at least here it is as fresh as possible with no preservatives. You may have access to some good Asian seafood markets too, but make sure it is fresh. Some items are hard to blend, scallops, octopus and some clams/mussels don't blend well. I use either an old coffee grinder or a little mini food processor to get them down in size. Once you have the hard to deal with items small enough for fish to eat, it is also easier to puree` them.

Something I have always wanted to add but don't have access to is fish guts. You may have good access to them in an Asian seafood market. Guts are usually the first thing eaten in the animal world and for a good reason. When I clean jumbo shrimp I put the "veins" in the tank and it becomes a feeding frenzy with the fish, they know what the good stuff is and devour it.

The biggest tip of all is to send the wife out shopping while you make it, it keeps them from freaking out over what you are doing. :D

[biggles]

The biggest tip of all is to send the wife out shopping while you make it, it keeps them from freaking out over what you are doing. :D

A much more serious and likely outcome will be the wife refusing to use the blender again and buying herself a newer expensive model - you need to keep your wits about you when reefing with a partner in close proximity or the real financial costs of this hobby can spiral out of your control........

[sahin]

OK, so further to all the brilliant SPS feeding information from Professor Biggles I've took some top down shots of some of my better coloured SPS. I still have MANY brown turbs wasting space and consuming valuable Ca and Alk... :mad2:

Overall, I am seeing deeper colour in most corals that are already coloured up. The brown turds continue their disobedience and refuse to colour up.

I posted these photos on my main thread, but thought I'd post here too because the results of the feeding has certainly improved my SPS colours. Not all, but its made a difference to these corals below:

Lets start off with my Tort: It is being blasted with about 400 PAR yet maintains a very deep blue colouration.
http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag270/sahin_uk1/DSC_1682_zps56533f21.jpg

Next up is my pink "Millepora". This one used to be a bit more pastel in colour but has since deepened in colour:
http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag270/sahin_uk1/DSC_1150_zpsc2c6cc57.jpg

Here is another shot of it from a different angle (I'm unsure if its the same branch though):
http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag270/sahin_uk1/DSC_1709_zps4fd5afd0.jpg

This one is a deepwater which has been colouring up. I couldnt capture the light blue tips (underneath is my pink/red Chalice):
http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag270/sahin_uk1/DSC_1745_zps2cdf48f3.jpg

These two are at WAR: The Yellow/Green one with the blue tips is much slower growing but it is the stronger of the two. The two corals grew right up against each other, and then the Yellow/Green decided to attack and caused the 5mm deathline. The one on the right has a beautiful deep green metallic look with all new branch tips in a sky blue colour terminating with purple tips. I couldnt catpure the purple tips though. Notice the brown turd frag on the top left. Not all my SPS are coloured up! :(
http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag270/sahin_uk1/DSC_1801_zpsf971605b.jpg

Here is a better shot of the right hand side of the green one. This branch is getting about 250 PAR and has pretty good colour. You can just about see the purple tip ends. Notice the blurred A. tenius underneath all brown with a few blue tips:
http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag270/sahin_uk1/DSC_1716_zps64406bc1.jpg

And finally my prized SPS. This one used to be brown with slight purple tip face and a little green on the base. Its now coloured up beautifully and the growing tips are turning a beautiful sky blue. Just about managed to capture the skyblue tips. This coral SHIMMERS under the point source nature of the White LED's which was missing with T5 only:
http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag270/sahin_uk1/DSC_1800_zps3c47b617.jpg

Hope you like the photos. After adjusting the photos to what they look like in real life, I went back to my tank and looked at each coral with my topdown viewer to ensure colours were faithfully represented.

I am going to continue the current SPS feeding regime, but in addition, I am going to pick up a few select pieces of quality cured liverock to place in the sump...not only to increase the microlife, but also to bring in a bit of bacterial diversity. Maybe I am just crazy...but I will try this before I give up on the brown SPS and get rid of them.

[DiscusHeckel]

When you use fresh sea food, isn't there a risk of introducing viruses and pathogens? How do you address the risk?

:beer:

[sirreal63]

Exactly what pathogens are you concerned about? This is the same food we eat, we would be more susceptible to any pathogens from the ocean than our fish and corals would be, or so it would seem. Do you have specifics or just concerned? I suppose it would be possible but I have never heard of anyone having issues from it.

[DiscusHeckel]

Exactly what pathogens are you concerned about? This is the same food we eat, we would be more susceptible to any pathogens from the ocean than our fish and corals would be, or so it would seem. Do you have specifics or just concerned? I suppose it would be possible but I have never heard of anyone having issues from it.

I read in a thread on RC that some people "disinfect" raw fresh sea food in a microwave (40 C) ro disinfect various "viruses"(?!). Unfortunately, I cannot find this thread.

I also remember reading that raw fresh prawns may contain various viruses which might affect fish in a reef tank.

Is there any truth in all these?

Thanks

[sirreal63]

Interesting, raw seafood in a microwave is cooked seafood. I have not heard of people doing this but it would not surprise me either. I have also never heard of anyone tracing a virus that effects fish to raw shrimp though that also would not surprise me. I do know that a lot of reefers worldwide use a variety of the papone mix's to feed their tank, with positive effects.

[Chriskid]

I read in a thread on RC that some people "disinfect" raw fresh sea food in a microwave (40 C) ro disinfect various "viruses"(?!). Unfortunately, I cannot find this thread.

I also remember reading that raw fresh prawns may contain various viruses which might affect fish in a reef tank.

Is there any truth in all these?

Thanks
I don't think raw seafood in a reef needs cooking, I have been chopping fresh shrimp and squid daily for my reef for years.

[nonstopfishies]

I don't think raw seafood in a reef needs cooking, I have been chopping fresh shrimp and squid daily for my reef for years.

Just a few weeks ago my LFS lost their bat ray and a blue spot ray they have had for a few years in a very large vat. They fed fresh shrimp from the grocery store. Nothing else in the tank was affected, those just happen to be the only two inhabitants that eat the shrimp. They all eat krill and other things. At the same time a complete different system had two triggers start spitting out the same shrimp, eventually going on a few week feeding strike from anything before eventually taking other foods again. These triggers are large and hardy and have been there for a few years as well. Raw stuff can introduce undesirables and unlike us humans it is hard to treat fish/corals/inverts/or whatever it is in time even if we are able to.

With that said, cooking it isn't the way to go. Freezing it however is critical imo. There really is no reason not to and it will kill most of the things that could cause problems.

[sirreal63]

Dustin, that seems to point to bad shrimp, not all shrimp being bad. Getting bad seafood is always a possibility.

[nonstopfishies]

Dustin, that seems to point to bad shrimp, not all shrimp being bad. Getting bad seafood is always a possibility.

I agree with you. Wasn't saying all shrimp is bad. I am saying there is a chance you get bad seafood. The risk is higher if it isn't frozen before feeding. i.e. buying fresh from the store in those cases that have tons of other stuff in them and bacteria growing like crazy and then feeding without freezing them at home.

[sirreal63]

I give everything a sniff test, bad or rotting seafood can be frozen and passed along just as easily. There is always a risk with anything we do.

[nonstopfishies]

So I have been feeding my tank "Reef Chili" as of a couple months ago. Just turning off the return and letting the stuff broadcast feed. The tank has only been up 6 months, but was a downsize of a different tank I had, so some of the pieces were decent sized. Growth in the first 4 months or so of the tank being setup was next to nil for the sps, though they had colored up nicely. The first time I broadcast fed the tank I woke up in the morning to new buds all over at least half of my sps. It was like a miracle. By the time I got home from work they were popping more and growing more. I have continued to find about every other night just a little scoop or two that comes with the bottle. They have continued to grow...

So I thought I would see what would happen when I shut off all the flow and used a 10ml syringe to shower the Reef Chili onto the corals. I mixed the food in a cup with tank water for a few minutes before doing so. All my corals were wide open like usual when the lights are on. Upon feeding I am seemingly getting little to no reaction out of any of the corals I watched. I was very surprised by this.

Am I just feeding the tank which in turn is making food for the corals? I would think that is possible, but how did the initial growth happen so fast assuming this? Or is it just because they have to adjust to feeding a different way because there was no flow instead of the unusual night time flow?

[trueblackpercula]

Hello SPS keepers,

possibly the freaking best I have ever used feed SPS to date.

Just wanted to share what SPS food I made this past couple of days. To my surprise I could not find oysters anywhere in my area as ever store was sold out for the Holidays. So I was not able to make the Blu coral method food exactly.

Here is what I was able to make for this batch and see how it goes for a month or until the batch I made starts to smell spoiled. I was able to make with the below ingredients that made a total of about 14 oz of food for about $9.59 CENTS. of that $4.59 cents was the cost of the NORI seaweed the other $5.00 bucks was for the seafood.

I used a normal blender for 5 minutes and let it cool down as per the directions to not let the food cook. It was very easy to make and poured it into a small 6oz bottle that was used from the oyster feast manufacturer and froze the rest in a small plastic container. ( Chances are I will not use it as I want to make the next batch with oysters)

I used 6mls yesterday to feed the tank with the return pumps off and only had one small power head on to circulate the food around the tank, I did Not target feed but I will this weekend and take a video for all to see. I feed my SPS at 3:00pm with the lights on out of pure excitement to see if what I made would stimulate my SPS into a feeding frenzy.

Well let me say as stated by Mr. Biggles that my SPS were almost overdosing trying to feed. There sweeper tentacles were out like I have never seen before. I mean I didn't even know that my True Purple Garf bonsai had sweeper tentacles until yesterday ( Long very thin ones that look like for sowing and had a very light transparent yellow color to them). I will feed again on Saturday and take some pictures and post for all to see.

I am going to say out of all the foods that I have tried to date,this is by far the one that gave the most impressive results. I can only imagine what the next batch of food that I make using oysters what affect it will have on them.

***My only concern with the food is shelf life as I have it in the refrigerator stored in the little bottle that contains 6oz of food that the oyster feast originally came in.***

I would think that it can be stored for at least 30 to 40 days before it expires. ( Does anyone think this is off let me know ) I don't want people to think that it last longer and start polluting there tanks and blaming me for something that was not noted.

I will continue to use this food and try and figure out the correct dosing in ML's for my 120 gallon tank. This is not like the commercial made products and is very high in nutrients so be very careful adding it to your system. I think the 6mls i used was too much so my next dosing will be cut back to 3mls.

Good luck everyone and I have not problem being the test pilot on this one.

***WARNING: KEEP REFRIGERATED AT ALL TIMES AS THIS IS RAW SEAFOOD AND COULD CAUSE HEALTH ISSUES***
Materials:
5 Oysters (NONE locally )
5 Mussels = YES fresh
5 Clams =YES fresh > if you can have the store you buy them from open them up for you have them do so as these things are hard to open up.
5 Shrimp= YES whole no heads or shells and I did not clean the vein left it in.
1 Tablespoon of Sugar (not corn syrup, etc.) = YES regular sugar
200 mL of RO/DI water =NO I added 250 ml RO/DI water because it was too thick and this appears to have a better consistency for feeding.
10 g of Algae = NO I used three sheets of seaweed NORI
" you use about 1.33 mg of somatropin, which corresponds to the 4 unit vial." = NO not in this batch but possibly in the next batch LOL pending my doctors approval.

Any questions please feel free to ask.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=213&pictureid=58815

[DiscusHeckel]

Your food idea is interesting. My only reservation is the inclusion of sugars. According to Tom (tmz), using sugars is not a good idea as an organic carbon source to feed bacteria. For more information refer to this thread (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2134105).

I used to use Oyster Feast and agree with you that it brought on massive polyp expansion on my acropora corals. However, we cannot get this product any more due European Union's import restrictions. Fortunately, we have been told that the company has recently complied with EU's import regulations and that from this Spring onwards we will be able to get our hands on this product once again :p

[Allmost]

dont think Id take tom as source of chemistry.

[zangmann]

Looks gross but sounds like a great recipe. What's a good alternative to HGH?

[stevedola]

ive been making my own food for years with my reef club. very similarhowever we add some other ingredients and freeze into cubes so that it keeps longer.

[DiscusHeckel]

dont think Id take tom as source of chemistry.

Why? Is something wrong with what he said in his thread?

[Allmost]

Why? Is something wrong with what he said in his thread?

no, not really. but I wouldnt take one persons bad experience with Sugar as the end of sugar dosing and a fact that sugar is no good in this case.

my personal experience differs.

[DiscusHeckel]

no, not really. but I wouldnt take one persons bad experience with Sugar as the end of sugar dosing and a fact that sugar is no good in this case.

my personal experience differs.

Fair enough. Thanks.

Would you be kind enough to provide links to successful reef set ups, which you are aware of, in which various forms sugars is used to feed corals and bacteria?

[sahin]

very similar however we add some other ingredients and freeze into cubes so that it keeps longer.

Can you please share what other ingredients you add? I also intend to freeze the stuff.

How often do you feed this stuff?

Thanks.

[trueblackpercula]

Fair enough. Thanks.

Would you be kind enough to provide links to successful reef set ups, which you are aware of, in which various forms sugars is used to feed corals and bacteria?

Thanks for the advice well taken. As for tanks that use a carbon source, well ther are many around here on Reefcentral.

But here is the most recent one that comes to mind
http://reefkeeping.com/joomla/index.php/current-issue/article/140-tank-of-the-month

Enjoy

Michael

[DiscusHeckel]

Thanks for the advice well taken. As for tanks that use a carbon source, well ther are many around here on Reefcentral.

But here is the most recent one that comes to mind
http://reefkeeping.com/joomla/index.php/current-issue/article/140-tank-of-the-month

Enjoy

Michael

That's really great. Thanks. I only read this article two days ago. Clearly, information did not register. In my case, I am already dosing vinegar as organic carbon source. Using sugars may well complicate things for me.

:beer:

[trueblackpercula]

That's really great. Thanks. I only read this article two days ago. Clearly, information did not register. In my case, I am already dosing vinegar as organic carbon source. Using sugars may well complicate things for me.

:beer:

You can try this but let's try and get back on the main topic please. If you want more help with carbon dosing please send me a PM and I will send you what you need..

http://glassbox-design.com/2008/achieved-through-observation-and-experimentation/

[martinphillip03]

I don't know why sugar is in the recipe but somebody thought it was necessary for feeding the SPS. This recipe has been proven successful.
Looking at the amount made, and the amount you feed, I really can't see a tablespoon of sugar being a major player in this.

What happens if you added salt to the mixture to use as a preservative?


Marty






I used 6mls yesterday to feed the tank

***My only concern with the food is shelf life as I have it in the refrigerator stored in the little bottle that contains 6oz of food that the oyster feast originally came in.***

I would think that it can be stored for at least 30 to 40 days before it expires. ( Does anyone think this is off let me know ) I don't want people to think that it last longer and start polluting there tanks and blaming me for something that was not noted.


***WARNING: KEEP REFRIGERATED AT ALL TIMES AS THIS IS RAW SEAFOOD AND COULD CAUSE HEALTH ISSUES***
Materials:
5 Oysters (NONE locally )
5 Mussels = YES fresh
5 Clams =YES fresh > if you can have the store you buy them from open them up for you have them do so as these things are hard to open up.
5 Shrimp= YES whole no heads or shells and I did not clean the vein left it in.
1 Tablespoon of Sugar (not corn syrup, etc.) = YES regular sugar
200 mL of RO/DI water =NO I added 250 ml RO/DI water because it was too thick and this appears to have a better consistency for feeding.
10 g of Algae = NO I used three sheets of seaweed NORI
" you use about 1.33 mg of somatropin, which corresponds to the 4 unit vial." = NO not in this batch but possibly in the next batch LOL pending my doctors approval.


http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=213&pictureid=58815

[trueblackpercula]

I don't know why sugar is in the recipe but somebody thought it was necessary for feeding the SPS. This recipe has been proven successful.
Looking at the amount made, and the amount you feed, I really can't see a tablespoon of sugar being a major player in this.

What happens if you added salt to the mixture to use as a preservative?


Marty

The suger is a source of carbon to keep the nitrates and phosphates under control, but I am purly guessing here. But it sounds right.

[DiscusHeckel]

The suger is a source of carbon to keep the nitrates and phosphates under control, but I am purly guessing here. But it sounds right.

Yes, it is. It introduces monomers to feed facultative heterotrophic bacteria for inorganic nutrient reduction. I speculate that perhaps its purpose is to offset some of the nutrients, which the recipe introduces to the water column.

I will say no more in order not to lose focus from the main objective of this thread.

[trueblackpercula]

Yes, it is. It introduces monomers to feed facultative heterotrophic bacteria for inorganic nutrient reduction. I speculate that perhaps its purpose is to offset some of the nutrients, which the recipe introduces to the water column.

I will say no more in order not to lose focus from the main objective of this thread.

Yes all that is true and no worries , do you feed your tank? Post a video

[DiscusHeckel]

Yes all that is true and no worries , do you feed your tank? Post a video

I do not feed my corals directly at present. I feed my fish very heavily instead. However, I am considering feeding my corals directly, hence my subscription to this thread.

Thanks for your contribution.

[trueblackpercula]

Well here is a video I just made after feeding my system with the above mentioned food source that I made.

What ya think Sps overdosing on my food. Lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6H4yGGTDxBs

[Chriskid]

Well here is a video I just made after feeding my system with the above mentioned food source that I made.

What ya think Sps overdosing on my food. Lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6H4yGGTDxBs

now here is my question, my acros also do this with feeding, however are they useing these stinging filaments for agressive defence or to feed. iv seen polyps eat but filaments just seem to neutralize larger food........ thoughts?

[trueblackpercula]

Here is A video I found on You-tube of the original recipe, I wont ruin the video but please check it out. If anyone can translate please do.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MfzYwE6lv8

this is what they have under the video, the only word I know IS vodka
la méthode papone vous conaissez ???

Le principe de la méthode papone vise à salir fortement le bac afin de favoriser son épuration par le biais d'une forte population en micro faune. Le but donc nourrir tout bac.

pour l'instant j'ai injecté 20 cc dans toutes l'installation et les lps/sps ouvert a fond et la méthode Papone permettrait donc de nourrir de façon optimale les coraux.

voici ma recette avec ce qui m'a permis de vider mes tiroir

5 coques
5 moules
5 huitres
5 gambas (crevettes roses)
1 Reef booster de prodibio
anchoie .trés riche en oméga 3
ultra lps marin fauna en granule
un demi sachet de Reef pearl
spiruline en poudre
250 g d'œufs de poissons
2 cuillere a café de cyclop eeze
250 g de mycis
250g artémias
2 ml de volka
1 cuillere a cafe de sucre en poudre

il faut que la mixture soit très liquide et de ne pas oublier de rajouté de l'eau osmosé soit l'équivalent de 200 ml et la melangé la plus fine possible a l'aide d'un blinder

le tout repose dans des sac pour cube a congelation et la distribution deux fois par semaine de 5 a 10 ml / 200 litres

http://lerecifdubelon.com/

[sahin]

Well done everyone for keeping this thread going. I am having good results with my SPS in terms of colour.

[slimm]

Thanks for doing this. Helps us new to SPS people.

[biggles]

Thanks for being the testing guinea pig with that food mix Michael and sharing the pics and videos. :beer: I agree with you guys that the sugar is probably just added to assist with nutrient control rather than aimed at coral nutrition directly. If you aren't having nutrient issues i'd give it a miss but as Allmost pointed out the use of sugar and other carbon sources does work if applied correctly. I didn't mean to indicate that dropping the sugar meant it was useless, i just don't need it but i do see its inclusion could be advantageous if required.

Tbh the only way i think we can see what's really going on with those long filaments is to stimulate them into extending and then macro film feeding the acros foods that i know are consumed by polyps directly to see if those filaments catch and then withdraw holding onto food particles. The other thought i have is that they are more involved with absorption of aminos etc and may be the acro maximising the area available for chemical absorption through tissue. If you tip 100ml of your skimmate into the tank after lights out you will see a great many acros extending filaments. There is no sliming when this happens just as when you add some of these targeted foods but if i go overboard stirring up too much filth from my sand bed i see filaments AND quite a few acros releasing slime - a very different and obvious reaction to something toxic the acros don't like. No idea tbh but i see these filaments on some acros when i feed reef roids and mysis pulp to the display - foods i have personally verified are actively consumed by acro polyps by watching the polyps catch, swallow and re open over 10-15 min periods. They're bloody slow eaters lol.
I do think they are a good reaction as long as they're not accompanied by sliming but how they function in regards to our feeding techniques is not 100% clear to me yet, need to make an SSC frag to use for macro feeding as they spit out filaments when i open the fridge door holding all my coral foods....... true stuff, would i lie......... :smokin:

[trueblackpercula]

[QUOTE=biggles;22254393]Thanks for being the testing guinea pig with that food mix Michael and sharing the pics and videos. :beer: I agree with you guys that the sugar is probably just added to assist with nutrient control rather than aimed at coral nutrition directly. If you aren't having nutrient issues i'd give it a miss but as Allmost pointed out the use of sugar and other carbon sources does work if applied correctly. I didn't mean to indicate that dropping the sugar meant it was useless, i just don't need it but i do see its inclusion could be advantageous if required.QUOTE]

My pleasure Biggles and all the rest of the Feeding Fans of this thread.

I think that this weekend I am going to make the next batch with oyster. From what I have been reading and the videos I have seen this is the key ingredient I left out because no one had any. When I was feeding oyster feast I was very skeptical and was under dosing from fear of over dosing, when I ramped it up is when I started to see major PE and extended filaments. This first batch of Pappone does not have the oysters in it and I am getting amazing results so I will be closely documenting what the outcome is for good or bad for all to see once I add the oyster feast. By the way this stuff is very inexpensive to make considering the amount you get from it.
I am very excited from what I am seeing in my tank right now, Not only has color improved but the life in the sand bed has really come to life. There are many more pods, worms ETC moving around and multiplying.
I am also seeing and it could just be me as I didn’t take before and after pictures of my built in over flow area has an explosive growth of sponges, small feather duster worms and pods moving around. I will post a picture of that area soon for all to see, I am also going full blow with creating a cryptic zone area in my sump and possibly my very large area in the over flow. 31 x 4 x 4 will post a picture and always could use advice on this. 
I will first create a cryptic area in the sump by adding egg crates and live rock loaded with sponges ( The white ones) for them to attach to. Of course this area in the sump is dark and receives little to no light as it is below my tank. I have already removed my sponge filters and filter socks as they were causing more bad then good.
I have been doing a lot of research and all the tanks that I have seen that I really like are the ones with DSB, high lighting, large skimmers and very simplistic sump areas. Not to mention they have areas that are loaded with sponges, pods and worms alike.
This new venture is what I truly believe is what my system has been missing all these years. The food source that I made has fed the entire tank not just my SPS and I hope others learn from my learning experiences and failures.
**** NOTE: I have been adding about 4mls a day to about 115 gallons of water volume of this food and I am seeing not only explosive growth of life and extended PE but my glass on the tank gets algae haze every two days now more than ever before. So I know I have reached my tanks limit in nutrient import and export. This is something that will vary from system to system so please be careful if you use this food source or method.
My tank is 120 gallon cube and I have a 20 gallon sump and I have been adding 4 mls a day. But after you subtract 3 ½ DSB , live rocks and corals I think I am More at 115 gallons Total. I just wanted to state this so others can gauge what to dose in their tanks.
Enjoy everyone
Michael

[sirreal63]

Good job Michael. The hard part is always figuring out how much you can safely feed. I feed a lot more but it took over a year to get to the point that I am at. Starting slow is always advisable as it takes time for the life in the tank to catch up to the food import.

Here is an example of how much I feed, and I feed this every other day or so but have gone as much as a week or so between feedings. This is a 16 oz. Solo Cup and I add enough tank water to bring the level up to the line, (we called that the "shot line" when I was younger.) I add a teaspoon of this every hour or so throughout the day. The tank stays cloudy on feeding days.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/sirreal63/DSCF2444_zps4bc69da7.jpg

I believe in the benefits of sponges, most are beneficial and their growth should be encouraged. My sump is unlit, no macro algae in it but I don't have much sponge growth there because I clean it frequently. All of the rock in the display is covered in sponge growth. You can turn any rock over and see mostly sponge.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/sirreal63/8531b34f-f379-46ed-b473-227a40d69374_zps3d9582d1.jpg

You can even see them in shaded areas out in the open.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/sirreal63/110%20DSA%20Pentagon/Corals/DSCF2523wbf_zps2627d791.jpg

I don't really have documentation to back my own experiences with feeding the tank as opposed to just the fish, but the method isn't new and has been practiced in Europe for many years. My own experience shows a benefit but there is also a downside as you will have more detritus, more algae (though mine is limited to mostly the glass with the exception of a brutal strain of Valonia I am fighting) and possibly more cyano. None of those IMO outweigh the benefits.

[trueblackpercula]

Good job Michael. The hard part is always figuring out how much you can safely feed. I feed a lot more but it took over a year to get to the point that I am at. Starting slow is always advisable as it takes time for the life in the tank to catch up to the food import.

Here is an example of how much I feed, and I feed this every other day or so but have gone as much as a week or so between feedings. This is a 16 oz. Solo Cup and I add enough tank water to bring the level up to the line, (we called that the "shot line" when I was younger.) I add a teaspoon of this every hour or so throughout the day. The tank stays cloudy on feeding days.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/sirreal63/DSCF2444_zps4bc69da7.jpg

I believe in the benefits of sponges, most are beneficial and their growth should be encouraged. My sump is unlit, no macro algae in it but I don't have much sponge growth there because I clean it frequently. All of the rock in the display is covered in sponge growth. You can turn any rock over and see mostly sponge.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/sirreal63/8531b34f-f379-46ed-b473-227a40d69374_zps3d9582d1.jpg

You can even see them in shaded areas out in the open.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v362/sirreal63/110%20DSA%20Pentagon/Corals/DSCF2523wbf_zps2627d791.jpg

I don't really have documentation to back my own experiences with feeding the tank as opposed to just the fish, but the method isn't new and has been practiced in Europe for many years. My own experience shows a benefit but there is also a downside as you will have more detritus, more algae (though mine is limited to mostly the glass with the exception of a brutal strain of Valonia I am fighting) and possibly more cyano. None of those IMO outweigh the benefits.

First off amazing work you have there as your tank looks beautiful. Now that I got that out the way thanks for the complimet. So I see you have yellow sponge is that in your sump area or main display?

Also the food in the cup is it your own blend or is it Pappone? In any case it sure looks like it's full of nutrients that will feed your entire tank. Have you had in increase in nitrates and PO4? My tank is still reading zero for both and that makes me a little uneasy. I know the kits are good as I use two different types and get the same readings. But then again between changing 6 gallons of water weekly GFO and carbon maybe that's why. I also have some algea problems but it's starting to go away. I did have the bryops at one time but after maintaining my magnisium at 1500 plus for a while mocked it out. Please share more pictures of not only your tank but your sump as well.

Michael

[sirreal63]

Sponges are in display, they start to grow in the sump but I end up cleaning them out before they get very big. The food is my own mix, it changes each time I make it based on what I find to put in it. The last batch I made lasted over a year and a half and was various fresh seafood items, various frozen foods, bloodworms, Cyclopeaze and a 64 oz pack of PE Mysis. It is a struggle to register nitrates as the tank processes them too well, the heavy feedings help but if I slow down on feeding I run undetectable with Salifert and the corals tend to lighten. I do use GFO to keep the po4 at about .02-.05 and haven't had to carbon dose in almost a year now.

The sump is an unbaffled 40 gallon tote from Ikea, it is nothing special but because of equipment choices it doesn't need to be anything specia. I took the CaRx offline almost a year ago and have been dripping kalk for alk/cal needs. The whole tank has pretty much been on autopilot for over a year now. I haven't added any livestock but have ripped out a lot of Caps, they grow like the plague for me, I tossed out a 5 gallon bucket of them in Sept. or Oct., the next plague to be ripped out will be GSP which spawned last year and it has been growing crazy ever since.

I hope to have a little more time to devote to the tank this year and plan on adding a lot more SPS, right now it is just a tank, nothing special and requires very little intervention from me. I don't mind, I have been too busy to mess with it much.

[trueblackpercula]

In love with Pappone this stuff is driving my SPS and everything else in the tank Crazy. We should call it Complete liquid Enhancement Juice for Reef Tanks.


Well I made the Pappone this weekend and you can get about 800 ML out of the mix and it cost less the $20 bucks. I have been feeding 4mls 4 to 5 times per week to see if it will increase PE and feed the the rest of the tank. To my surprise this food new food source is simple Amazing and I would recommend it to anyone with a reef tank. everything is responding to it at a rapid rate. I am also checking my Nitrates and phosphates and they still have been reading Zero. I need to mention that my skimmer is pulling out what looks to be nasty dark green/blackish color skim-mate and its very nasty.

My sps have colored up i also see a lot more PODs and my Sand bed is crawling with life during the day and at night i have many worms stretching out of the sand bed. The look like what one company calls as Mama Mia Worms™ popping up everywhere. I am very excited to report this information to all so that it may help with raising SPS.

Also I have gotten explosive growth of sponges and feather duster worms on the glass and in my over flow box. I took a few pictures and will post before and after photos in about 30 days to show the difference and i am so Sure it will be a BIG difference at that.

**** Don't even think twice about using this food is better then anything on the market that i have tried. I think the only thing that could be added would be freeze dried cyclopez and of course one pill of somatropin but not likely to get this.****

Enjoy its freaking amazing and worth the $20 bucks.....Who knows maybe I will start my own SPS feeding company with this stuff. 800MLs at 4MLs is like 200 feedings that's a cost of .10 cents per feeding.

One more thing to add and maybe its just me but I have an abundance of asternia starfish now.....Very cool in deed


http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac281/miezza/6FA694DE-B327-4155-8A6D-BF5E8DD05950_zpsea6zrfme.jpg
http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac281/miezza/ADEAEA23-898D-449F-91E3-B700EB38664C_zpsxferuznh.jpg

[sahin]

In love with Pappone this stuff is driving my SPS and everything else in the tank Crazy. We should call it Complete liquid Enhancement Juice for Reef Tanks.


Well I made the Pappone this weekend and you can get about 800 ML out of the mix and it cost less the $20 bucks. I have been feeding 4mls 4 to 5 times per week to see if it will increase PE and feed the the rest of the tank. To my surprise this food new food source is simple Amazing and I would recommend it to anyone with a reef tank. everything is responding to it at a rapid rate. I am also checking my Nitrates and phosphates and they still have been reading Zero. I need to mention that my skimmer is pulling out what looks to be nasty dark green/blackish color skim-mate and its very nasty.

My sps have colored up i also see a lot more PODs and my Sand bed is crawling with life during the day and at night i have many worms stretching out of the sand bed. The look like what one company calls as Mama Mia Worms™ popping up everywhere. I am very excited to report this information to all so that it may help with raising SPS.

Also I have gotten explosive growth of sponges and feather duster worms on the glass and in my over flow box. I took a few pictures and will post before and after photos in about 30 days to show the difference and i am so Sure it will be a BIG difference at that.

**** Don't even think twice about using this food is better then anything on the market that i have tried. I think the only thing that could be added would be freeze dried cyclopez and of course one pill of somatropin but not likely to get this.****

Enjoy its freaking amazing and worth the $20 bucks.....Who knows maybe I will start my own SPS feeding company with this stuff. 800MLs at 4MLs is like 200 feedings that's a cost of .10 cents per feeding.

One more thing to add and maybe its just me but I have an abundance of asternia starfish now.....Very cool in deed


http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac281/miezza/6FA694DE-B327-4155-8A6D-BF5E8DD05950_zpsea6zrfme.jpg
http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac281/miezza/ADEAEA23-898D-449F-91E3-B700EB38664C_zpsxferuznh.jpg

Thats awesome mate. I am being lazy and not going to the supermarket to buy the fresh stuff I need...but I will do that sometime this week.

It all sounds like its going well for your tank.

Can you turn down the level of the Royal Blue LED's and then take photos of the corals? This will help remove a lot of that overly blue cast.

[trueblackpercula]

http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac281/miezza/19C43206-118B-4457-8F4E-5E5A0CCAF6A6_zpsnqr8x5ex.jpg
http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac281/miezza/FC13A93C-5D35-470A-AD0E-0755DCFB53EB_zpsksfhprb3.jpg
http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac281/miezza/58BC3050-D914-4312-B81B-8E78CEB7FFB0_zpsui4mqdxk.jpg

[Bobf216]

Here is A video I found on You-tube of the original recipe, I wont ruin the video but please check it out. If anyone can translate please do.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MfzYwE6lv8

this is what they have under the video, the only word I know IS vodka
la méthode papone vous conaissez ???

Le principe de la méthode papone vise à salir fortement le bac afin de favoriser son épuration par le biais d'une forte population en micro faune. Le but donc nourrir tout bac.

pour l'instant j'ai injecté 20 cc dans toutes l'installation et les lps/sps ouvert a fond et la méthode Papone permettrait donc de nourrir de façon optimale les coraux.

voici ma recette avec ce qui m'a permis de vider mes tiroir

5 coques
5 moules
5 huitres
5 gambas (crevettes roses)
1 Reef booster de prodibio
anchoie .trés riche en oméga 3
ultra lps marin fauna en granule
un demi sachet de Reef pearl
spiruline en poudre
250 g d'œufs de poissons
2 cuillere a café de cyclop eeze
250 g de mycis
250g artémias
2 ml de volka
1 cuillere a cafe de sucre en poudre

il faut que la mixture soit très liquide et de ne pas oublier de rajouté de l'eau osmosé soit l'équivalent de 200 ml et la melangé la plus fine possible a l'aide d'un blinder

le tout repose dans des sac pour cube a congelation et la distribution deux fois par semaine de 5 a 10 ml / 200 litres

http://lerecifdubelon.com/

translation from french to english:

The principle of the method papone aims to besmirch strongly the tray in order to foster its purification by means of a strong population in micro fauna. The aim therefore feed any tray.

For the moment I have injected 20 cc in all the installation and the lps/sps open has substance and the method Papone would therefore to feed in an optimal way the corals.

Here is my recipe

5 oysters
5 (prawns) shrimp
1 Reef booster of prodibio
anchovies - very rich in omega 3 ultra
lps marine fauna in granule
half a bag of Reef pearls
spirulina powder
250 g of fish eggs
2 spoons of cyclop eeze
250 g of mysis
250g brine shrimp
2 ml of volka
1 spoonsugar

it is necessary that the concoction is very liquid And don't forget to add 200ml of reverse osmosis water, the mixture should be thinned using a blender

the any refitting in the bag for cube has freezing and distribution two times a week to 5 a 10 ml / 200 liters

[trueblackpercula]

translation from french to english:

The principle of the method papone aims to besmirch strongly the tray in order to foster its purification by means of a strong population in micro fauna. The aim therefore feed any tray.

For the moment I have injected 20 cc in all the installation and the lps/sps open has substance and the method Papone would therefore to feed in an optimal way the corals.

Here is my recipe

5 oysters
5 (prawns) shrimp
1 Reef booster of prodibio
anchovies - very rich in omega 3 ultra
lps marine fauna in granule
half a bag of Reef pearls
spirulina powder
250 g of fish eggs
2 spoons of cyclop eeze
250 g of mysis
250g brine shrimp
2 ml of volka
1 spoonsugar

it is necessary that the concoction is very liquid And don't forget to add 200ml of reverse osmosis water, the mixture should be thinned using a blender

the any refitting in the bag for cube has freezing and distribution two times a week to 5 a 10 ml / 200 liters

Outstanding thank you 10 ml to 200 liters sounds like a lot of food but I should talk as I feed the tank 4 Mls 4 days a week lol

[Arkayology]

Thanks for all your recipes! This gives me something to think about.

[trueblackpercula]

I am using the original pappone with out the steroids.

[trueblackpercula]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3v3mYNLrJWs

Just feed 10 minutes ago and this is what happens to Sps Lol they go crazy on this stuff. Sorry for the blue light but it's feeding time.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3v3mYNLrJWs

[Maximus]

Just ordered some Polyp Lab Reef Roids and was wondering how much tank water are you supposed to add to 1 teaspoon of the Reef Roids?

[trueblackpercula]

Just ordered some Polyp Lab Reef Roids and was wondering how much tank water are you supposed to add to 1 teaspoon of the Reef Roids?

Can you please post how your Sps react when you feed?
Thanks

[Jakef150]

Have you guys try coral frenzy ??? http://www.coralfrenzy.com/products-coral-frenzy.html

I uses rods food, coral and SPS enjoying it. http://www.Rodsfood.com/coral.html

Jake

[trueblackpercula]

Have you guys try coral frenzy ??? http://www.coralfrenzy.com/products-coral-frenzy.html

I uses rods food, coral and SPS enjoying it. http://www.Rodsfood.com/coral.html

Jake

They sound good but after making pappone and trying a lot of other foods I am do e experimenting. Pappone is by far the best I have used to date and will use it until I give up reef keeping In 30 years lol

I will make modifications down the road with using HGH or another source of whey protein buy that's it.

Please post videos as we are always looking to get new ideas.

[Jakef150]

I'm thinking about to making one :) but less than 5 each food, maybe 1 or 2 each lists cuz I only have biocube 29 with many SPS :) and few LPS so I don't need a lot.

Now need to find me seafood store around me..not super stop and shop :bounce1: ? Haha.
Jake

[trueblackpercula]

I'm thinking about to making one :) but less than 5 each food, maybe 1 or 2 each lists cuz I only have biocube 29 with many SPS :) and few LPS so I don't need a lot.

Now need to find me seafood store around me..not super stop and shop :bounce1: ? Haha.
Jake

Just freeze it. It only makes 800ml

[Maximus]

Just received my jar of Reef-Roids and fed my tank using Julian's thing (where the hell do they come up with these names?). Good news is my ORA red goni seems real happy. No clue if the acros ate or not, but their polyps are definitely extended. Between this and TLF Acropower, I'm due for some type of algae bloom!

[Maximus]

Btw, as soon as I added Reef-Roids, my foam head on my skimmer instantly collapsed. Anyone else observe the same?

[AugustWest]

Want to give this Pappone a try but have a couple of questions for trueblackpercula. Are you freezing this after making it ?

Also, I'm running biopellets wondering if it's ok to add the sugar or leave it out?

[trueblackpercula]

Want to give this Pappone a try but have a couple of questions for trueblackpercula. Are you freezing this after making it ?

Also, I'm running biopellets wondering if it's ok to add the sugar or leave it out?

Well I do not freeze it and I will tell you why. I don't have anything that would freeze it into 4 to 5 ml cubes. So I keep it refrigerated and have beening feed M ,W, T, S then Sundays I do 6 to 10 gallon water changes.

I have been seeing a lot better results with my Sps growth and color but still have other issue going on that are impacting my success but that's another thread. What I can say is that if I had not been feeding pappone I would probly have lost everything by now. It truely is an amazing food source that is self sustaining.

I wish all reef keepers would try it for a month so they can see there Sps full potential. As for the bio pellets and the suger, I doubt it will have an effect on your tank as it's a small amout of suger being added to the food source. Then You are adding only 5 ml to 10 Mls of that into the tank very two to three days. It does a couple of things in my opinion , it preserves the food and it adds another carbon source to the tank.

I would keep the pappone recipe as is and don't modify it, try a little at a time and see how your system reacts to it. In the mean time I will see what I can find out as when this came out in 2007 there was none of these fancy carbon pellets out there lol!

[trueblackpercula]

Read this link post 983 http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=971190&pp=25&page=40

[AugustWest]

Think im gonna give it a try. Thanks for the info and the link. Here's some mini ice cube trays i found on amazon. I got a couple and they are the perfect size for freezing http://www.amazon.com/Cubette-Mini-Ice-Cube-Trays/dp/B000I1ZXIK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1391967410&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+ice+cube+trays

[sirreal63]

I just put a large spoonful in a ziplock, squeeze the air out and lay it flat in the freezer, makes it easy to break off as much as you want to feed. Ice cube trays leave the mix open to the air in the freezer.

[AugustWest]

suppose that would work too. I was going to remove the cubes from the tray after freezing and ziplock the cubes.

[sirreal63]

You could but you will find the cubes will stick together after a while. I did the cubes once but found the flat sheet so much easier to deal with.

[evolutionZ]

Is it okay to not include the vodka? Or can I replace it with distilled vinegar like how carbon dosing works? Interested to try out..

[trueblackpercula]

Is it okay to not include the vodka? Or can I replace it with distilled vinegar like how carbon dosing works? Interested to try out..

There is no vodka added only sauger.

[trueblackpercula]

You could but you will find the cubes will stick together after a while. I did the cubes once but found the flat sheet so much easier to deal with.

How do measure what your feeding? By eye or prepackaged frozen amounts? I want to try and keep within the 5 ml range.
Thanks

[sirreal63]

By eye, I never critically measure food, never saw the need. Some days I eat more than other days, I suspect that is the same in the wild.

[trueblackpercula]

By eye, I never critically measure food, never saw the need. Some days I eat more than other days, I suspect that is the same in the wild.

Thanks some days I eat more as well LOl! The real reason I asked is because i have been feeding 5mls four days a week and I have not seen any increase in Nitrate and my P04 is still holding, I do change water weekly though about 6 gallons every Sunday,not to mention about 5 gallons of top off water.

The only thing i have noticed is my skimmer pulls out like a greenish black film since i started. It almost looks identical to what a squid or octopus shots out when they are in danger.

I have also noticed and explosive growth of sponges,pods,worms and my sand bed has come to life, with the exception of the DAME red cyno that comes and goes with every water change and me siphoning it up.

My SPs for the most part have very good PE during the Day. There colors have also improved and I am sure if I had a better led fixture it would improve even more.

My algea growth has also increased and I am sure do to nutrient import verse export so i may go to 4 mls four times a week to see if that changes. I will start that March first to see how that goes.

I changed my lighting schedule to be more on the blue and 20 k spectrum through out the day, It seems to help with the colors and feeding the SPS. another mention since I feed two hours before lights out I have noticed less PE at Night.

Does this sound normal?

Well enough about me what is everyone else experiencing ? please show and tell.

Michael

[sirreal63]

I have no idea if i have any PE at night, I don't bother to look.

[trueblackpercula]

I have no idea if i have any PE at night, I don't bother to look.

Hey Jack how long have you been using pappone for?

[sirreal63]

I started somewhere around 2005/2006 but I don't follow the recipe and it changes slightly from batch to batch.

[gguertin]

A few question's about the food that has been discussed the last 4-5 pages...

How often are you feeding just the 2 times a week you started with or more now?
How much per feeding are you using?
Was there an update on how long you think this stuff will last in the fridge?
If I use a scrubber and don't want to add the sugar do you see an issue with that?

[therman]

Ive been using this "recipe", not quite as finely chopped, as fish/coral food for the past 8 years. I freeze it flat in gallon zip locks and make it a few times per year. Big chunks get eaten by fish and LPS, smaller liquified bits get eaten by SPS and filter feeders. I agree about the sponges, they go nuts.

Recipe varies widely depending on what seafood market and my freezer has in stock.

[trueblackpercula]

A few question's about the food that has been discussed the last 4-5 pages...

How often are you feeding just the 2 times a week you started with or more now?
How much per feeding are you using?
Was there an update on how long you think this stuff will last in the fridge?
If I use a scrubber and don't want to add the sugar do you see an issue with that?

I feed four times a week and each feeding is 5 Mls two hours before lights go out. As for how long it will last I have no idea but I have about 425mls left and it does not smell foul. It's amazing food can't wait for the next batch when I start adding whey protein to it. As for the suger I think it adds as a source of carbon dosing to control P04 and nitrates and acts like a preservative for the food.

[tyuksel]

I also started dosing this food since Saturday. I have taken some pictures of the corals so it will be easier to make before after comparisons. I was worried the particles weren't fine enough so i filtered it through artemia sieve. My main goal is to increase the biomass of small critters in tank since i already have low nutrients due to biopellets.

I dont want to pollute the thread with pics so you can find link to my tank in my sig.

[trueblackpercula]

I also started dosing this food since Saturday. I have taken some pictures of the corals so it will be easier to make before after comparisons. I was worried the particles weren't fine enough so i filtered it through artemia sieve. My main goal is to increase the biomass of small critters in tank since i already have low nutrients due to biopellets.

I dont want to pollute the thread with pics so you can find link to my tank in my sig.

Please by all means post Pictures or a short video clip so we can all see your SPS.

Michael

[trueblackpercula]

Ive been using this "recipe", not quite as finely chopped, as fish/coral food for the past 8 years. I freeze it flat in gallon zip locks and make it a few times per year. Big chunks get eaten by fish and LPS, smaller liquified bits get eaten by SPS and filter feeders. I agree about the sponges, they go nuts.

Recipe varies widely depending on what seafood market and my freezer has in stock.

Do you feel that its helping your SPS get better growth and color? please share soem pictures.
thanks
Michael

[evolutionZ]

i just made myself my own cheap sps food! i don't have access to some seafood so i make do with what i can get.

my recipe :
70g of small yellow clams
5 green mussels
7 grey prawns
10 small sheets of nori
50ml DR G's CLAM MAX
5 cubes of frozen rotifers
300ml or DI water
1 tsp of sugar ( i remembered wrongly, forgot it was tablespoon!)

http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/ae143/kalthuslee/20140218_221225_zps23126dce.jpg (http://s966.photobucket.com/user/kalthuslee/media/20140218_221225_zps23126dce.jpg.html)

blended them and it smelled pretty bad
http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/ae143/kalthuslee/20140218_223536_zps749dd2fa.jpg (http://s966.photobucket.com/user/kalthuslee/media/20140218_223536_zps749dd2fa.jpg.html)

placed in cubes and freezed them, i made too much and kept some in a bottle in the fridge, will it spoil?
http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/ae143/kalthuslee/20140218_225935_zpsa898f20e.jpg (http://s966.photobucket.com/user/kalthuslee/media/20140218_225935_zpsa898f20e.jpg.html)

i tried feeding about 1ml to my sps tank (250L) and i noticed millie having extended its PE just mins after dosing! the rest are just as per normal.. fishes goes crazy though!

[evolutionZ]

I wonder how long would I be able to keep them just in the fridge? I took the bottle to smell today and it smelt normal. Planning to blend another tsp of sugar into the bon frozen ones.

[trueblackpercula]

Sounds like a good idea.

[tyuksel]

Please by all means post Pictures or a short video clip so we can all see your SPS.

Michael

Thanks man.. I will try to upload some pictures showing the reaction of corals.You can find more in my thread :
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2082523&page=4

http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/tyuksel/20140216/DSC_0205_zpse7fef569.jpg
http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/tyuksel/20140216/DSC_0135_zps7d93f78c.jpg
http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/tyuksel/20140216/DSC_0130_zpsd07b5015.jpg
http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/tyuksel/20140216/DSC_0144_zpsb8993d99.jpg

FTS:
http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/tyuksel/20140216/DSC_0205_zpse7fef569.jpg

[evolutionZ]

Great looking tank!


I noticed a very slight boom of diatom after feeding just the other day! Measured my no3 and Po4 and they remained the same.

[sahin]

Great looking tank!


I noticed a very slight boom of diatom after feeding just the other day! Measured my no3 and Po4 and they remained the same.

Half the amount you just fed and see what happens. These foods are loaded with lots of goodies and being that a lot of it is mush, you can easily overload the system.

I now feed a crazy amount compared to what I used to feed, but I slowly built up how much I feed. This has allowed the biofiltration system to catch up/be able to process the extra food.

[trueblackpercula]

FTS:
http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/tyuksel/20140216/DSC_0205_zpse7fef569.jpg

Dude your tank is amazing also I am going crazy over how clean the SANDBED is thank you so much for sharing. Also what sand is that I really like the size and color of it?

[Tristan66]

Hey guys, love the topic. just started with my own dosing of pappone recipe.
just one question or thought.
what if 4 mils. per day x 4 per week. would be distributed in 6 servings per week then a water change on the 7th day. for ex. if i dosing a total of 16 mils. now per week total, what if i dose 2.6 or so of the pappone per day for six days.
another ex. would be if i dose 6 mils. per dose x 4 days = 24mils. total. then this could be dosed at 4 mils. per day for 6 days then a water change on the 7th.
the reason i'm asking this is because it makes more sense to me to dose every day that way the micro fauna is fed more often than 4 doses spread through the week.
or do you guys think this method could cause alot of problems with overloading the system. what do you all think. please advise.

[evolutionZ]

I would think dosing daily in small amount would be much better den a bigger dose but lesser frequency

[tyuksel]

Great looking tank!


I noticed a very slight boom of diatom after feeding just the other day! Measured my no3 and Po4 and they remained the same.


I had the same reaction. I used to get this when i overdose KZ products as well. So i am now basically reducing the amount to half as well. With bio pellets in the system it might be an overdose sugars that is causing that bloom... Just an uneducated guess..

[trueblackpercula]

Hey guys, love the topic. just started with my own dosing of pappone recipe.
just one question or thought.
what if 4 mils. per day x 4 per week. would be distributed in 6 servings per week then a water change on the 7th day. for ex. if i dosing a total of 16 mils. now per week total, what if i dose 2.6 or so of the pappone per day for six days.
another ex. would be if i dose 6 mils. per dose x 4 days = 24mils. total. then this could be dosed at 4 mils. per day for 6 days then a water change on the 7th.
the reason i'm asking this is because it makes more sense to me to dose every day that way the micro fauna is fed more often than 4 doses spread through the week.
or do you guys think this method could cause alot of problems with overloading the system. what do you all think. please advise.

Sound like a great idea and I see no problem with it. Please be reminded and I tell this to everyone using it. 5ml is for a tank that has more the the avg Sps and lps in it. I have 22 Sps ranging from small to extra large pieces so that's why I dose 5mls four times a week and on Sundays I do water changes. It has been working well for me.

[tyuksel]

Dude your tank is amazing also I am going crazy over how clean the SANDBED is thank you so much for sharing. Also what sand is that I really like the size and color of it?

Thanks! I have a very thin layer of sandbed.. Around 1.5 cm that's half an inch.. I vacuum some part of it with weekly changes. I keep it just for aesthetic purposes because my overflow causes circulation problems and i cant get most of detritus of the sand if its deep.. It seems to work so far.

The sand is CaribSea - Arag-Alive - Special Grade..

[Tristan66]

Sound like a great idea and I see no problem with it. Please be reminded and I tell this to everyone using it. 5ml is for a tank that has more the the avg Sps and lps in it. I have 22 Sps ranging from small to extra large pieces so that's why I dose 5mls four times a week and on Sundays I do water changes. It has been working well for me.

Thanks trueblackpercula, my system consist of 180 gal. tank with a total volume of around 200 gals total system. medium average stocks with mostly sps and some lps. i started dosing this week about 2.6 mils every day for 6 days and a water change on the 7th. i will be upping the dose to 3mils. in a few weeks depending on how the tank looks. i also have lost a few sps do to what i suspect is a nutriend deficiency system. i really hopping this helps my sps to regaing color and growth. thanks for the responce

[greg1786]

I find this thread fascinating. I am a firm believer that a high quality, varied diet is the most important thing we can give the animals in our reef tanks. I have about 15 different fish, coral, and invert foods that I rotate on a weekly basis so that im never feeding the same things two days in a row. After reading this thread, I decided to make my own food. So I took a bit of food from some of the most nutritious foods I use on the tank, and went to the market and picked up some fresh seafood and veggies. I blended half of the food super fine, and half of it chunky, and mixed the two together so I would have an all in one fish, coral, and invert food. It contains rods coral food, red nori, green nori, carrots, broccoli, garlic, selcon, zoecon, scallops, shrimp, tilapia, lobster, clam, mussles, oyster, roe, krill, mysis, brine, cyclopeeze, rotifers, and rodi water. Ive been using this food once a day now for two weeks and not only do my fish love it but my corals are showing better PE, growth, and color than prior to me using this food. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread for coming up with the homemade food idea!!!

[evolutionZ]

After about 4 dosage of home-made food. One obvious improvement is the PE of my birdnest! They are becoming so hairy I almost thought they were pocciliporas!

I reduced my feeding dosage to a few drops/day (250l Sps dominated tank) and that alone is enough to make my fish go crazy and make my naussrius snails come out to search for the smell. It's been a week since I made the food and it still smelled good!

[trueblackpercula]

I made mine on January 11th and it's been in the refrigerator every since. I have been feeding it to my tank since then and smell it for freshness daily. Well to my surprise it's still very fresh and has no fowl order at all. I think the sugar acts like a preservative to keep it from spoiling, or if you feel like you need to freeze it for a longer time that's also been done with freezer bags or mini ice cube trays. The original amounts mixed correctly will make 800 mls.

Hope this helps

[trueblackpercula]

We here is a update, it's not like my sps are dripping with color but take a look at the pictures and judge for your self. So it's been a full month and I must admit that pappone food has changed my entire outlook on sps keeping.

Please be totally and brutally truthful and let me know if there is any difference. All pictures were taken from the same angels and using my iphone 5. No photoshop here Lol

Michael
Before
http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac281/miezza/5CD9B16D-5BBB-425D-88D0-8A98862678D5_zpscztrfldv.png
After
http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac281/miezza/A9362BA6-80AF-4219-97A3-5EE308A94B80_zpsfkxw605t.png
Before
http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac281/miezza/04DCDDB2-7AF4-4D10-AB56-FE7C45F08A96_zpsxn65jazr.jpg
After
http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac281/miezza/57CC48F0-341D-4F90-B597-7DFB77597763_zpsig1cqgtt.jpg
Before
http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac281/miezza/0C86D78D-C005-41C0-8854-11154AFD5B2F_zpsxwhzyzvq.png
After
http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac281/miezza/D2C5B058-AE61-4ECA-9E7D-95F5A351A42D_zpsabvt2mqe.png

[Fredfish]

Looking at the background between the two sets of shots, the white ballance looks completely different, so it is impossible to compare the two.

The important thing is whether or not you see any difference though.

[Jakef150]

Ok, I made a small test.

One Frozen Mysis cube, 1/8" piece of rods coral blend, 1 cube size Larry's frenzy reef food, 3 scoop of bulk supply reef reef chilli.

I mixed it in blender with 1/4 cup of ro di water.

2x a week I dump 5ml 2 hours after light out. I could see all corals were screaming hahaha.

Phos and nitrate are same within range, nitrate 5ppm and phos (Hanna) 0.04-0.08

One day , I will go to the sea food store to buy few and try it ha

Jake

[trueblackpercula]

Looking at the background between the two sets of shots, the white ballance looks completely different, so it is impossible to compare the two.

The important thing is whether or not you see any difference though.

Thanks I didn't realize that but after looking at the pictures now I see your point. I will try and take another set of pictures trying to get them to match the older ones. I have led lighting so it would have to be at the same time of the day. Now this will be chalgning as I don't remember the exact time I took them. But let's see what I can do.

[stickleback]

You can definitely see a change in growth between the pics.
How much do you thing that is down to pappone and what was growth like before?

[trueblackpercula]

You can definitely see a change in growth between the pics.
How much do you thing that is down to pappone and what was growth like before?

So in my case feeding alone is not the cause of acropora growing. I have also done a few things to make them happier as I was lacking in a few areas. But to answer your question I will go on record here and say yes feeding has helped with color and growth in my opinion 10 fold. There really is no reason why if your keeping an animal that feeds then why not feed them? I only wish I would have started this years ago.

There are a couple of videos on here that clearly show that acroporas are capable of catching pry and utilizing it. Yes they also feed off the light spectrum to produce zoanthela, but pappone is just another food source that probally gives them the so called meat and potatos to thrive.

I don't think if you follow the recipy to the letter and start with small amounts based on your tank size and animal load you can go wrong. If it doesn't help your acropora and lps change for the better then you can always just stop. The cost to make it is less then $20 bucks.

If you don't want to use pappone there are a few other recipes list in this thread you can also try. I trid a few and did get respons from my sps. Weather they were good enough was unknown as I only test one for a long period of time. That was oyster feast and it's probally the same as pappone, but I like pappone as it freshly made and I whole lot cheaper. Dont be afraid to try multiple food source as long as you know when to stop when you reach that level of over dosing nutrients.


Hope this helps

Michael

[laureef]

Great and informative thread!
Have anyone tried reef pearls 5-200 micron from reef interest?

[jackson6745]

I've been using reef nutrition ROE for the last year. Most of the SPS in my tank capture and consume these larger eggs. Here's a few horrible quality pics after lights out.

[trueblackpercula]

I've been using reef nutrition ROE for the last year. Most of the SPS in my tank capture and consume these larger eggs. Here's a few horrible quality pics after lights out.

Hey your PE looks great, how often do you feed and have you seen an increase in sponges,pods worms Etc since you started feeding?

[Arkayology]

I've been using reef nutrition ROE for the last year. Most of the SPS in my tank capture and consume these larger eggs. Here's a few horrible quality pics after lights out.

Interesting. Reef Nutrition does not have SPS on the label or description as benefiting from it.

[jackson6745]

No increase in anything other than growth from that corals that consume it. I'm feeding it 2-3 times per week. It's a pretty clean feed and doesn't seem to spike nutrients.

Reef Nutrition apparently didn't do their homework :)

Not all SPS eat this though, but the ones that do seem to benefit from it.

[biggles]

Damn you guys have been busy, great info reading through what you've been doing. I've just set the sump tank up again with some acros i can macro video whilst trying foods so i'll be joining in again once i actually get some of the foods you guys have been having success with. Definitely going to try a meaty pappone type mix and video the polyps reaction to it. :)

[trueblackpercula]

Damn you guys have been busy, great info reading through what you've been doing. I've just set the sump tank up again with some acros i can macro video whilst trying foods so i'll be joining in again once i actually get some of the foods you guys have been having success with. Definitely going to try a meaty pappone type mix and video the polyps reaction to it. :)

Hey biggles

All I can say is that this stuff is amazing. The only draw backs that I have found is it will raise your nitrates and po4 quickly but nothing water change can't fix. It will also make your tank explode with life pods works etc. I have so much more to tell you guys about it. Also I may have to stop because my Sps are encrusting so fast that they Re almost touching now and that will be another story lol. Colors and PE are off the charts for me like never before. Now if I can just find a way to nuke the bugs I have crawling around on my two smoothed skin acros I will be fine.

[trueblackpercula]

Ok UPDATE on Pappone,

This stuff works great and I cant get a perfect picture with this stupid Iphone but as you can see the SPS are encrusting very fast. This is causing me to get concerned at this rate the will be competing for space and burning each other in less then a couple months. I have never seen SPS grow so quickly on anything else I tried before that .

DRAW BACKS:
1) super fast growth rate at a feeding level of 5 mls four days a week right now but this I will need to cut back on its way to much. I am thinking 2mls four days a week is better and it should slow the growth rate down some.
2) explosive amount of aptasia anemones as they are also eating very well these days and I am having a hard time keeping up with killing them. So if you feed this stuff to your SPS beware it will also feed the things you don't want to keep.
3) well this is not a Con but could turns out to be.....An unbelievable amount of pods, worms, feather dusters and large amount of sponges in every color under ever rock you lift up. I have also seen many tiny brittle star fish and asteria starfish like never before. My concern with this is if I stop feeding I think they will die off and cause a spike in decaying animals.
4) PO4 and Nitrate does spike after feeding but not to dangerous levels in my case but I have been dosing biodigest and this seems to keep that in check.
5) The skimmer needs more frequent cleaning and the stuff is black in color only after a week.

Other then what I have posted I cant find any other issues with the pappone and I would recommend it to anyone keeping sps to try it.

There is no need to dose anything else to feed your reef tank as this stuff cost less then $20 bucks to make. In addition to that the first batch I made that I have kept in the refrigerator is still good. ( 01-11-2-14 )

I think its the sugar that acts as a preservative in keeping it nice and fresh. you should be able to get 800mls out of one batch if made correctly. You will also need to shake it it before drawing into what ever you use to dose it. I use a syringe that holds 10ml but I only use 5mls.

Well until next Update I am looking forward to hearing from others that are using Pappone and seeing there results....

Michael
top down picture
http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac281/miezza/A92DC45F-5E6D-44D4-AF30-D8F5F0B9768D_zpsuxyhzp7c.jpg
stags
http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac281/miezza/A88B1047-2FF7-4504-91B6-4040CC7EEFB5_zpsch0fvy7q.jpg
before cleaning
http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac281/miezza/Mobile%20Uploads/CE696B38-AB7F-49A1-9B70-7907554DAD61_zpsu3jexrvc.jpg
after cleaning
http://i908.photobucket.com/albums/ac281/miezza/Mobile%20Uploads/464FA3FD-847A-4F45-8D3D-F34C400F6486_zpszo4isv6v.jpg

[csilverio]

Hello,

Maybe it was useful more feed-back, from people using this food, about NO3 and PO4 behavior/spikes.

Thank you

[penfold2]

When I used to make my own food I noticed that there was a significant difference between the fresh and frozen food. The fresh food was a dense fog when added to the tank. There were some visible pieces as well, but much of the food was too small to be seen as individual pieces. After freezing, the food tended to stick together so there was very little fog when added to the tank and more visible particles. If I had to guess, I'd say that the fresh food with it's smaller particle size is much more useful for SPS. But I never wanted to make fresh food on a weekly basis.

I wonder if the fresh food is really better than the frozen, and whether that small amount of sugar is enough to act as a preservative.

trueblackpercula, are you saying that you've kept this food in the fridge for 2+ months and it's still good?

[mayjong]

thanks true-black.
are you target feeding or just broadcasting? i assume you do it at the same time everytime?

[GreshamH]

No increase in anything other than growth from that corals that consume it. I'm feeding it 2-3 times per week. It's a pretty clean feed and doesn't seem to spike nutrients.

Reef Nutrition apparently didn't do their homework :)

Not all SPS eat this though, but the ones that do seem to benefit from it.

:lol: didn't do our homework :lol:

While not on the label itself, its on our Feed chart and else where.

[sahin]

Michael, many thanks for your post. Its very informative. :thumbsup: