Weird Ozone Problem

[d2mini]

So a few months ago I set up ozone.
A Poseidon 200 generator hooked up to a LifeReef skimmer with ozone kit.
I was running the poseidon without an air pump because the skimmer creates some suction and with the poseidon set on low it had no problem getting my ozone up to 390 and would have easily done more if my GHL Redox probe and controller wasn't turning it off at that point.

But recently my ozone has dropped and will not go above 300. The poseidon runs 24/7. I went to petsmart and picked up a little air pump that you would normally use for an air stone and hooked that up to the input of the poseidon and it hasn't helped at all.

I've also kept up with cleaning the probe. If anything, I've noticed that as the probe gets dirty the redox reading goes up, not down. So that's not the problem.

Any idea why I can't get the ozone to raise?

[bertoni]

Have you calibrated the probe lately? How old is the probe?

[ironwill723]

Can you still smell ozone being produced? The Ozotech Poseidon corona discharge cells in my experience do not last more than 6-12 months if you are not using an air dryer on the input side. I've replaced my CD cell 3-4 times already. Easy to do yourself as well. My ORP goes up as well when probe is dirty. Sounds like the cell may be bad or clogged.

[Jamey1010]

The Ozotech Poseidon corona discharge cells in my experience do not last more than 6-12 months if you are not using an air dryer on the input side. I've replaced my CD cell 3-4 times already. .

There not supposed to go bad and have lifetime warranty's against the possibility.

www.ozotech.com/documents/PCSandPoseidon.pdf‎

[ironwill723]

Well I've been charged $40+ by Ozotech every time I need a new one and my Poseidon is 2.5 years old. They always ask my serial number and say the year warranty is up.

http://www.ozotech.com/documents/PCSandPoseidon.pdf

Page 5 is the Poseidon generator...no warranty mentioned on that model.

[Jamey1010]

Interesting than you should quote them this from page 5

"The Poseidon, when compared to other ozone generators offered in the 200 mg/hr range, outperforms them all. Based on a patented “Cold Spark” technology, the output remains constant for years"

I have a custom made "cleanzone" model from them and has worked problem free for years maybe you got a lemon power supply over powering it or maybe they did cheap out on that line but never heard people have a lot of problems with them and for the op if it's cranking 24/7 you should have no problem smelling lots of ozone and the probe could just be being finicky.

Well I've been charged $40+ by Ozotech every time I need a new one and my Poseidon is 2.5 years old. They always ask my serial number and say the year warranty is up.

http://www.ozotech.com/documents/PCSandPoseidon.pdf

Page 5 is the Poseidon generator...no warranty mentioned on that model.

[d2mini]

Thank for the responses.
I can try calibrating the probe again.

It would suck if something is already wrong with the poseidon. It's only been a few months. I have an air dryer but I have not hooked it up.
It was doing great without it, even with the dial of the generator set on position 2.

I'm not sure what ozone smells like? The LifeReef skimmer is really good at recirculating the ozone and you don't need carbon or anything. I don't notice any smell in that area of my garage (fish room).

Is there any info out there on replacing the cell and where to get it?

[slief]

Thank for the responses.
I can try calibrating the probe again.

It would suck if something is already wrong with the poseidon. It's only been a few months. I have an air dryer but I have not hooked it up.
It was doing great without it, even with the dial of the generator set on position 2.

I'm not sure what ozone smells like? The LifeReef skimmer is really good at recirculating the ozone and you don't need carbon or anything. I don't notice any smell in that area of my garage (fish room).

Is there any info out there on replacing the cell and where to get it?

Ozone has a very odd smell. Almost metallic or something. Plug it in with the air pump on and smell the output side. You should be able to smell it on the ozone outlet side and will know it when you do. It's strong will will almost singe your nose hairs.

[ironwill723]

It is very easy to change the CD cell. It is basically a metal stick with a small plug on the end and two airline tubes. The last one Ozotech sent me is actually different than the old design. The tech guy said they redesigned the CD cell recently because of issues with the old design.

I actually have two Poseidons and a BTU Mini at the moment. I've had to send all three in for service at one point or another. I don't use air dryers with mine which cuts down their efficiency and service life due to the more moist air passing through them. They work great for awhile and then just fade off in production. There is another thread on here that I posted in and someone who worked at a zoo said they had problems all the time with their Ozotech units and recommended using Del Ozone generators instead. I'll try to track it down if I can.

Here you go...

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2315524

[wolfblue]

First, if you have a dryer use it. Some CD cel's will last a real long time with a good low dew point. Moisture could mean you’re making nitric acid.

Probes usually drift up, but sometimes down. Though it sounds like you’re not making ozone. With your air pump running, disconnect the ozone line. DO NOT stick that line to your nose and sniff. Let the generator pump ozone onto your fingertips, and then sniff your finger. Ozone smell is unmistakable, and it seems to stick to things. Like fingers. It's not good for you, but were all exposed to small amounts every day.

And, 200 mg/h seems like an awful lot for a home aquarium. The flow range for that would be 29-88 gallons per minute through the skimmer. Under 29gpm and your starting to break the foam. And you want a 2 minute or longer contact. So a 58 gallon protein skimmer?

Let the protein skimmer be a protein skimmer. Use 0.01-0.03 mg/l ozone to make it a better protein skimmer. I would turn down the gen until it never hits set point. Have the ORP peak up over 350, and let the gen run all the time at reduced output. But don’t stress over numbers, ORP under 300 is fine in many cases. And don’t let that thing run at 100% for now, cause it might be working. You still could have a bad probe.

--John

[d2mini]

I contacted Ozotech this morning and they are sending out a new cell for free! Heard back within an hour. Nice customer service.


John, thanks for the reply.
I'm a little confused about this part though.
I was running the generator on low and it had no problem keeping the orp around 390. Are you saying this is too much?
My skimmer has been working great.

And, 200 mg/h seems like an awful lot for a home aquarium. The flow range for that would be 29-88 gallons per minute through the skimmer. Under 29gpm and your starting to break the foam. And you want a 2 minute or longer contact. So a 58 gallon protein skimmer?

Let the protein skimmer be a protein skimmer. Use 0.01-0.03 mg/l ozone to make it a better protein skimmer. I would turn down the gen until it never hits set point. Have the ORP peak up over 350, and let the gen run all the time at reduced output. But don’t stress over numbers, ORP under 300 is fine in many cases. And don’t let that thing run at 100% for now, cause it might be working. You still could have a bad probe.

--John
I was concerned about the probe being bad and giving a false reading but everything in the tank seems to be doing fine. What would be something to look out for if I was over doing the ozone?

Thanks!

[ironwill723]

Rapid breathing and scratching by the fish. Corals will close up. Sometimes excess micro bubbles stuck to all the surfaces of rock and sand. Ozone will burn your fishes gills and corals at too high of levels. Fish will die. Ozone at the 700 ORP levels will basically replicate turning your tank into bleached saltwater. I have the Poseidon on a 300g+ reef and keep the ORP set at 450 for my Achilles Tang.

[ironwill723]

John...I have never heard about the nitric acid issue before. Could you elaborate more?

First, if you have a dryer use it. Some CD cel's will last a real long time with a good low dew point. Moisture could mean you’re making nitric acid.

Probes usually drift up, but sometimes down. Though it sounds like you’re not making ozone. With your air pump running, disconnect the ozone line. DO NOT stick that line to your nose and sniff. Let the generator pump ozone onto your fingertips, and then sniff your finger. Ozone smell is unmistakable, and it seems to stick to things. Like fingers. It's not good for you, but were all exposed to small amounts every day.

And, 200 mg/h seems like an awful lot for a home aquarium. The flow range for that would be 29-88 gallons per minute through the skimmer. Under 29gpm and your starting to break the foam. And you want a 2 minute or longer contact. So a 58 gallon protein skimmer?

Let the protein skimmer be a protein skimmer. Use 0.01-0.03 mg/l ozone to make it a better protein skimmer. I would turn down the gen until it never hits set point. Have the ORP peak up over 350, and let the gen run all the time at reduced output. But don’t stress over numbers, ORP under 300 is fine in many cases. And don’t let that thing run at 100% for now, cause it might be working. You still could have a bad probe.

--John

[d2mini]

Thanks for the info.
None of those symptoms in my tank. Everything seems to be chugging along as usual.
Hopefully its just a bad cell. Will update once i get the new one installed.

[bertoni]

Nitric acid is HNO₃. The ozone generate will create some by converting nitrogen gas and water, so reducing the humidity of the air will help reduce the amount. Nitric acid is very corrosive, so it will damage the generator over time.

[ironwill723]

Nitric acid is HNO₃. The ozone generate will create some by converting nitrogen gas and water, so reducing the humidity of the air will help reduce the amount. Nitric acid is very corrosive, so it will damage the generator over time.

Ahh I see...I thought he was referring more to some type of chemical contaminate produced in the tank water column.

[wolfblue]

d2mini.............

Running on low sounds good to me. Ozone is destroyed very quickly in salt water, but it creates other oxidants like the bromine's and even chlorine. And its these other oxidants that really do the disinfection. But disinfection by contact with oxidants is not what were after in salt water. Instead its better foam formation in the foam fractionator by microflocculation. And then increased disinfection via removal with the foam.

In the protein skimmer organic and inorganic particles of like charge will repel each other and so they tend to stay away from the air bubbles. With a small amount of ozone you can change the charge of some, so they are attracted to the foam. So we get better, stickier foam. Better foam removes bacteria and even some particles big enough for you to see. So the foam fractionator is like a chemical filter and a mechanical filter too.

But if we use too much ozone the ozone can last too long. It starts to break the carbon bonds of the long chain molecules that we want to stick to the air bubbles. So the stuff that was going to stick to the air bubbles does not. So foam does not form and those pieces of the former polar long chain stays in the water. Bacteria has to eat it now and make nitrate.

But the longer lasting ozone that broke our foam producing molecule is still going to create secondary oxidants. Now were using too much ozone and making more residual oxidants. With residual oxidants we dont want more oxidants than reducing compounds. We want the oxidants to be consumed before that water gets to animals. So we run the effluent from the protein skimmer through carbon. And the carbon reacts catalytically to destroy the oxidants.

So too much ozone reduces foam formation and produces persistent residual oxidants that may reach animals. If your volume of carbon is too small those oxidants may get through. Chronic exposure to even low levels of oxidants could lead to a reef that just doesn't seem to flourish. And it will destroy your carbon quicker than you would expect.

So we should use small, flocculation dosages of ozone in salt water. But its a catch 22 with our small under cabinet proteins skimmers. We want 0.01-0.03 mg/l ozone concentration in the skimmer for a flocculation dose. That's probably 3-10 gallons a minute with 22mg/h of ozone. But we also want a two minute or better contact in the skimmer with or without ozone. So for a 0.03 dose and a 2 minute contact we need a 6 gallon skimmer. Oh well.....

ironwill723.......

Nitric acid is the brown stuff and the reason why corona discharge cels dont last forever. We should use the air dryer. Plus your not making half the ozone your rated for with humid air. Air fed CD cells need a 70-80 below zero dew point to produce what they are rated for. It only outputs half at a dew point of-5f. And the dew point is in the 50's around here this time of year. 75% of the electricity is wasted and I'm wearing out the cells fast if I use wet air.

--John

[bertoni]

Argh! Fixed my typo. The ozone generator will convert some nitrogen gas and water into nitric acid.

[bertoni]

Ozone doesn't change the charge on compounds per se.

Protein skimmers remove primarily amphipathic and hydrophobic compounds that are not charged or not highly charged.

Charged particles seldom are skimmed because they are hydrophilic, and so are drawn away from bubble surfaces. Ozone might tend to convert organic compounds into more charged form, thus making them less skimmable in the short term. Ozone might improve skimming performance by breaking down larger molecules and allowing organisms to consume them more rapidly and produce skimmable compounds.

This article goes into a lot of details:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-08/rhf/index.php

[wolfblue]

Ozone doesn't change the charge on compounds per se.

Well, it’s my understanding that it will change the charge of some.

Protein skimmers remove primarily amphipathic and hydrophobic compounds that are not charged or not highly charged.

Again, my understanding is that the compounds that are normally skimmed are both, hydrophilic on one end and hydrophobic on the other end. When they contact the air bubble the hydrophobic end flips into the air and the hydrophilic end keeps the molecule oriented right at the phase interface between air and water.


Charged particles seldom are skimmed because they are hydrophilic, and so are drawn away from bubble surfaces.

Yes, they shy away from air. And the ozone can alter the charges of some so that they develop a hydrophobic end or stick to another molecule and then will stick to the air bubble.

Nobody really totally understands all this. Assumptions are made that fit observation and testing. The assumption for about the last ten years are what I describe here. Best foamfrac performance starts with a pretty low range of ozone concentration. And then you would tweak and tune from there. But at home the hobbyist won’t have the resources to tune very much. So it’s probably best to stay in the starter range and don't exceed 0.05mg/l by very much.

That ORP over 400 could mean oxidants. But it might not, or you could have oxidants well under 400. And at home we have no way to find out. The oxidants limit for coral I would use is 0.02 mg/l total residual oxidants. I don’t think the coral would visibly react at that level. It would be a long term problem. At home you won’t see it with DPD, or I think indigo trisulfonate either. I am pretty sure many people use too much ozone. I just hope they have a good volume of fresh carbon between the frac and the animals.

--John

[bertoni]

I don't know what you mean specifically by "change the charge". Ozone breaks up compounds, and it might create a couple of charged ions from something uncharged, or do something similar.

"Amphipathic" means hydrophilic on one end and hydrophobic on the other. Hydrophobic compounds can be skimmed, too, by being "squeezed" out of the water onto bubble surfaces, as far as I can understand from the article posted.

I'm not sure what you mean by "ORP over 400 could mean oxidants". As long as there's oxygen in a tank, there's at least one kind of oxidant. There will be others, too.

[wolfblue]

Ah.... Amphipathic, so that’s what that means. A new(and valuable) word! I still have not read that article. I read fast but comprehend slow, so I will need a few minutes wide open to read that one. Looks good though, definitely the kind of thing I like to read. The quote below is from something I read. A paper written by some guys with 1000 gpm skimmers and chromatographs.

"Small organic and inorganic particles of like electrostatic charge will repel each other and thus be held in suspension in the water column, creating a haze and adding to DOM. By applying a VERY SMALL dose of ozone, the charge of SOME of the particles can be changed, bringing about their destabilization. When a higher (disinfection) dose of ozone is used in a Foam Fractionator, the charges of all suspended particles are altered and the benefit of microflocculation is lost. And ozone begins to break apart the carbon bonds of the long-chain molecules that are adhering to bubble surfaces, the pieces go back into solution.”

This paper is about ten years old. But I just talked to the lead author a couple months ago on this very subject, and nothing has changed. I can’t really name them or link the paper without permission. And I won’t ask. I was picked on a little before(not this author), and the line was “why do you want to waste your time fooling around on a hobby forum”. So I don’t want the chance to embarrass myself.

But there are a few reasons to fool with hobbyist. One is if you can weed through some non-sense there is a lot to be learned here. Lots of smart people here. Another reason is that a hobbyist can try something new without several committee meetings and hundreds of pages of documentation. So it’s good for the pro’s to keep up with what the hobbyist is thinking. And the hobbyist should keep an eye on what the pros are doing. I'm in charge of a facility where you need a ladder to clean the skimmer cup. Except that they clean themselves. And I'm using six pounds of ozone a day. And want more.

--John

[wolfblue]

Oh yeah, oxidants. When ozone reacts with sea water oxidants are produced. It happens fast and it is likely that most of the benefit we would give to ozone actually comes from the secondary oxidants. Ozone will spontaneously turn back to oxygen but these other oxidants last and are called persistent oxidants. I think they last until they contact something that can reduce them. I mentioned chlorine before and it can be created some, but most of the oxidants would be the Br- stuff. Like bromine, bromite, bromate and hypobromous acid.

The problem comes because we try to strip as many of the reducing compounds as possible with the skimmer. Then we make these oxidants in the same place. If we use too much ozone we make more oxidants than can be consumed by reducers in the foam fractioner effluent. And oxidants could reach animals. Or we burn up the carbon we are supposed to have between the skimmer and the animals. There is no cheap way to test for oxidants at the levels that would already be a chronic health problem for sensitive animals.

--John

[d2mini]

UPDATE.

So yesterday i went to clean the skimmer cup. This requires release of the quick disconnect which connects the hose between the skimmer cup and the T fitting on the venturi where the hose from my ozone generator is also connected. This T fitting is supposed to be ozone safe. As I unclipped the quick disconnect and pulled it apart, the T fitting broke apart in a soft crumbly way, right at the joints.

Sooo…. not sure if this has anything to do with my issues. Is this from the ozone generator running 24/7? Was it really pumping out ozone but there was a clog somewhere? Is this unrelated and was going to give out anyway? Interesting. Tomorrow the new cell arrives from Ozotech, but first I'm going to get a new T fitting and hook it all back up as-is and see if there is any difference before installing the new cell.

I talked to Jeff at LifeReef and he says no one has had this problem with the ozone fittings before (that he has heard of).

In this pic you can see the black hose on the right of the skimmer cup. The white thing is the quick disconnect and below it you can see the black T fitting. The hose from the ozone generator is connected to the open end of the T that you see in that pic.

http://bluelemonphoto.smugmug.com/Aquariums/200g-Reef-Aquarium/i-6mNWKqv/0/O/20130705_7050799_200gReef.jpg

[bertoni]

Ozone can damage a lot of plastics. The problem you're seeing might be due to ozone, or perhaps too much ozone. It's hard to say. How old was the skimmer?

[d2mini]

Just a few months. Got it this summer. July I think.

[wolfblue]

Thats exactly what ozone does to some plastics. Turns that stuff almost into dust so that it just falls apart.

--John

[bertoni]

Hmm, I'd get some ozone-resistant tubing, and I'm a bit worried that the skimmer might be getting a larger dose of ozone than would be ideal. An ozone reactor with some carbon after it would spare the skimmer a bit, for that matter.

[d2mini]

Ok, so i had turned off the ozone generator.
I got a brass t-fitting (doesn't come into contact with water).
I replaced the cell with the new one from Ozotech.
I recalibrated the probe. Again.

Probe was calibrated on Sunday. As of Monday night, no rise in Ozone levels at all.
Although maybe the probe is still adjusting. I was a little worried to keep the generator running 24/7 so i turned it off monday night and now almost 24 hours later the probe is reading 301mV which is higher than it has been in a while, but the generator is not even turned on. :worried:

[bertoni]

Are you noticing any other effects, like clearer water?

[d2mini]

No, not really. Not yet anyway.

[bertoni]

Hmm, I might check the ozone generator output, but ORP is a bit tricky to predict.

[d2mini]

Yeah, this whole thing is really odd!

Ok, so i'm really trying to narrow this down. I figure it could be the following issues.

1) Bad generator
2) Bad probe
3) Something wrong with the skimmer

Let's go through each of these...

#3... only thing I could think of here would be some sort of clog in the line where the ozone enters the T fitting before the cup. Seen on the very right side of this pic. But everything seems clear and open when I look in there.

http://bluelemonphoto.smugmug.com/Aquariums/200g-Reef-Aquarium/i-vfGJvBJ/0/XL/20130711_7110829_200gReef-XL.jpg


#2... I have recalibrated the probe numerous times. It seems to calibrate fine. We know it was working fine before. It still goes up slowly after calibrating. It just gets to a point where it won't go up any more. But still fluctuates a little throughout the day. So other than not going as high as I want, it still seems to be functioning normally.

#1... Not sure how to tell if this is working ok, other than using the probe readings as a guide.
The green light comes on when it's plugged in and it gets warm. Any safe way to tell if it's producing ozone? Right now, i'm leaning towards sending the unit back to be checked out.

Any other ideas?

[Wrench]

I was unaware that you could calibrate an ORP probe. There are some solution which can be used as a control to determine the probe's accuracy but the guys at Neptune said there's no true calibration. I have found that if the probe is not accurate, a 20-30 minute soak in vinegar will clean it and it will read accurately again if placed in the control solution. If you don't get the correct reading it's time to replace the probe.

I use an Ozotech Poseidon P303 which includes a pressure-rated air pump and has no provision for an air dryer. I used to inject into my skimmer and had insufficient results. Now I use an Avast ozone reactor which has drastically improved the performance of the generator. It's rated for 200 mg/hr and I run it at 50% output which keeps my systems ORP around 350mV. My system is around 400 total gallons, heavily stocked and fed. HTH.

[d2mini]

I was unaware that you could calibrate an ORP probe. There are some solution which can be used as a control to determine the probe's accuracy but the guys at Neptune said there's no true calibration. I have found that if the probe is not accurate, a 20-30 minute soak in vinegar will clean it and it will read accurately again if placed in the control solution. If you don't get the correct reading it's time to replace the probe.

I use an Ozotech Poseidon P303 which includes a pressure-rated air pump and has no provision for an air dryer. I used to inject into my skimmer and had insufficient results. Now I use an Avast ozone reactor which has drastically improved the performance of the generator. It's rated for 200 mg/hr and I run it at 50% output which keeps my systems ORP around 350mV. My system is around 400 total gallons, heavily stocked and fed. HTH.

Yeah, the problem here though is that everything was working just dandy for the first couple months and then all of a sudden it seems to have stopped producing ozone. I was getting readings over 400mv with the generator dial set very low. No air input needed for that either.

And as far as cleaning it, i found I had to give it a quick scrub on a weekly basis, otherwise it would start reading artificially high.

[Wrench]

Yes but are you sure that the unit is or isn't producing ozone? I had seen some advice in an earlier post which advised you to 'sniff' the output to determine whether the unit is working or not.

I used to own a Red Sea ozonizer and it would periodically stop producing ozone. I called them about it and they had me backflush the unit with RO water to clean out the CD tube. The water came out black and once it was dried out, the unit was back to working like new.

[bertoni]

I'm not sure why someone would say "there's no true calibration". There are various calibration solutions available for ORP meters, although they are rather unpredictable. I agree that something other than ORP would be a better choice for detecting ozone output. Ozone does have a distinctive odor, although it can damage all the various mucous membranes, so I'd be careful with it.

[d2mini]

Yes but are you sure that the unit is or isn't producing ozone?

That's what i was saying in my previous post... based on my current deductions, i'm leaning towards the theory that there may be something wrong with the ozone generator, even though I replaced the cell.

[ironwill723]

Two possible explanations I can come up with...
1) Check all airline and tees for deposits or buildup for clogs. I have to use a paperclip end to clean out my venturi inlet on the skimmer when I clean the skimmer cup from some type of calcium buildup that happens very fast when I use ozone.
2) Ozone generator or transformer is bad. As I have posted earlier these Ozotech units in my experience are finicky at best. Maybe send it in for service if it is still under warranty. If the unit was working correctly your ORP should rise rather easily into the 400s I have found.

[billsreef]

Two possible explanations I can come up with...
1) Check all airline and tees for deposits or buildup for clogs. I have to use a paperclip end to clean out my venturi inlet on the skimmer when I clean the skimmer cup from some type of calcium buildup that happens very fast when I use ozone.

This is quite common. Plenty often the build up is a bit higher up in the airline than you might expect and sometimes deeper down in the T fitting than you can see. Makes that old paper clip a top aquarist tool :D

[wolfblue]

There are various calibration solutions available for ORP meters, although they are rather unpredictable.

Don't trust that stuff myself. So I mix it fresh every time. Good to the exact mV by temp and pH.

http://www.amazon.com/Sensorex-B125-Piece-Calibration-Solution/dp/B006WC16DU

I agree that something other than ORP would be a better choice for detecting ozone output. Ozone does have a distinctive odor, although it can damage all the various mucous membranes, so I'd be careful with it.

I just use the ol' olfactory. But short of that you could use KI. Potassium Iodide, or nuclear radiation doomsday pills. Crush one between two spoons, mix that in a ounce of water. Wet a paper towel in it. Ozone will turn it brown instantly. I use it to look for leaks by wrapping the paper towel around fittings.

http://www.amazon.com/Natures-Plus-Potassium-Iodide-Tablets/dp/B004SS0YAG/ref=sr_1_14?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1384791229&sr=1-14

--John

[d2mini]

hey, neat calibration kit. Might have to pick up one of those.

Well, just to make things easy, and since this is not a crucial part of my system, I talked to Ozotech today and we both agreed it would be best to just send it in since it's under warranty. So I'll ship it out tomorrow Priority Mail and then report back once I hear something.

I did check the skimmer line and everything seems to be clear.
Plus the venturi is self cleaning so it really shouldn't be prone to clogging anyway.
Just pulling the hose off the output of the ozotech, you can hear the skimmer sucking.

[bertoni]

Don't trust that stuff myself. So I mix it fresh every time. Good to the exact mV by temp and pH.

http://www.amazon.com/Sensorex-B125-Piece-Calibration-Solution/dp/B006WC16DU


You are hardcore. I like that. :)

[wolfblue]

A jar or pack of 400mV of the shelf? How can I trust that? Make it fresh and I can believe it.:bounce1:

That ORP check/calibration kit seems expensive, they list it as 30 calibrations. But that’s like the minimum you would get out of the pH solutions. That 20 gram bottle of quinhydrone will last literally forever. I do about 10-14 (read as 20-28) cals a month, a three year old bottle barely looks like I have used any. You just buy any kind of pH4 and 7 for refills.


A note is... you end up with 86 and 264 mV solutions around 80f temp. Calibration if you can use those numbers to adjust what your controllers reading. If you can do a one point cal I would naturally use the 264mV, and use the 86 as a check point. At work on big aquariums I do a two point slope calibration with those numbers. And it changes what the probe reads outside of that range. Some probes run 800-900 mV close to ozone contact. But literal accuracy matter less up there. Like 50mV matters anyway. We look for the trend.


--John

[d2mini]

UPDATE:

Just got an email from Ozotech.
Looks like they repaired the generator!
"Poseidon Frequency Driver,9KHZ Mini,12v"

Hopefully its on its way back to me soon.

[billsreef]

:thumbsup:

[bertoni]

Okay, that makes sense. :)

[d2mini]

I have no idea what that is, but as long as I see anything like "part replaced" I know I wasn't going crazy all this time! :lol2:

[billsreef]

I know I wasn't going crazy all this time! :lol2:

That might be stretching it a bit :D