Figuring out my heaters

[mkoop]

So I have read that you want to have roughly 5 watts per gallon of water, seeing as I have a 180 display and 75 sump that puts me at 1275w.

I have a full apex kit I will be using for controller but am not sure what actual heater options I should look at. I see the finnex stand alone titanium tubes would work and have a good price but have read that they reset to 80' after any power outage? Any other major known issues with these?

I also read that the Eheim Jager is a great heater but I can only find them up to 300w, would having 4 of these in the tank really be sensible?

Do I have any other options with this?

Thanks!

[Hatonhed]

I don't have an answer, more an opinion on your statement. I have been told two smaller heaters is better than one large, in case they fail in an on position. So with 4 smaller heaters, if one failed it would have a lesser effect than the two or a single, long story short IMO four is better than one or two,

[FTDelta]

Larger tanks, I'd go with 2 - 4 heaters depending on the length of the tank.

Cobalt are pretty good heaters to get.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3743+25144&pcatid=25144&r=940

[James77]

So I have read that you want to have roughly 5 watts per gallon of water, seeing as I have a 180 display and 75 sump that puts me at 1275w

Like all rules of thumb in this hobby, there are far too many variables to suggest a wattage off gallons. 500 watts may work great for a person in Florida, but be woefully short for someone in Maine. Where I am, 500 watts of heat is more than enough for a 120 gallon display.


I have a full apex kit I will be using for controller but am not sure what actual heater options I should look at. I see the finnex stand alone titanium tubes would work and have a good price but have read that they reset to 80' after any power outage? Any other major known issues with these?

If the Finnex is a stand alone only(no controller or thermostat...I use these) then it is impossible for them to reset to anything. I use heater only tubes, where if they are plugged in they are on regardless of temperature.
These:
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/finnex-deluxe-titanium-heating-tube.html

Using that with an Apex(or any reef controller) is magnitudes better than relying on any hobby grade thermostat, be it built in or external.

But far better than that is using something like a Ranco single or dual stage heater controller...separate from your reef controller. They are highly reliable, more so than a controller. It is not always best to have all your eggs/control needs in one basket ;).

Ideally, you would find the minimum wattage to heat your tank in the coldest of the year, and have it on a Ranco. This way in the rare event the Ranco fails, it would take quite a while to fry your tank. Add to it the alerts an Apex can give you, and you are as close to fool proof as you can be.


I also read that the Eheim Jager is a great heater but I can only find them up to 300w, would having 4 of these in the tank really be sensible?
!

All hobby heaters are junk, with the "best" still being unreliable. At the best, I would only use a hobby heaters thermostat as a "fail safe" to another controller. Temperature is far too important to rely on anything other than an industrial grade controller, like a Ranco.

[fasteray]

I have always added a digital temperature sensor to control a 30 amp relay. by doing so you can eliminate a stuck heater and prevent a chiller from coming on at the same time. as it will try to compensate. Naturally anything can fail but this method gives you more peace of mind. I keep my tank within a single degree of 78. Hope this helps.
Ray

[mkoop]

Thanks everyone for the information and James for the great explanation. I am in Wisconsin so it gets a bit chilly outside however my house is about 68-70 year round either with heat or air.

Currently the tank is at 72 with the equipment running in it. I'll order a ranco and a 500w finnex and start there and order a second if need be.

Thanks again for the advice.