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View Full Version : Heater melt down HELP!!!!!


Cozwey
10/29/2013, 07:10 PM
Ok so I go out of town yesterday and come home to find my tank is at 87.6F.

Come on Man. Not again

Crap.
Panic.
......

Ok breath buddy

Unplug heater. Grab zip lock bags, fill them with ice. Drop 2 into the return of the sump.

OK..... 85.2 right now.


This sucks. Everything looked ok but when I stuck my had in the sump to move a rock it was sure warm. Live stock looks fine. My bubble coral is ****ed off and so is my BTA.

Ok I was using two Hydor 400 watt submersible heaters. This is the second time this has happened. I pulled one out about 2 weeks ago. Temp got to 85.0 that time. I have been running on just the one heater hoping it will last until my Apex controller comes.

I am going to go to a titanium heater and plug it into the controller. I just don't know which one is good. I have a 120g DT with a 55g sump. Total water volume is 105g.

Anyone have suggestions?
:blown:

mannysmusic
10/29/2013, 07:13 PM
Good thing you caught it.

fltekdiver
10/29/2013, 07:49 PM
Sorry to hear , good thing you caught it

I have my apex set to shut the outlet off if the temp reaches 83

I'm also using a titanium heater as well

Cozwey
10/29/2013, 08:17 PM
Yep. We just ordered a new titanium heater from J&L. Will be here before the Apex. We are starting a second tank and will likely now need a second energy bar 8>

fltekdiver
10/29/2013, 08:20 PM
How much was it, I had mine fir a while , but I need to order one for my mixxing bucket

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3 using Tap Talk

Cozwey
10/29/2013, 08:26 PM
Aqua Medic TH-500 Titanium Aquarium Heater (500 Watt)

$69.95 CDN
Inventory Status: Instock


Quantity:

Titanium Heaters are the safe alternative to glass heaters in both fresh and salt water aquaria.

The unbreakable titanium housing is sea water resistant and the heaters have both overheat and dry running protection cutouts.

These heaters must be used in combination with a temperature controller, and are ideal for use with any aquarium controller.

The Aqua Medic 500W Heater is ideal for aquariums up to 375 Gallons, and measures only 13" long.

fltekdiver
10/29/2013, 08:32 PM
Aqua Medic TH-500 Titanium Aquarium Heater (500 Watt)

$69.95 CDN
Inventory Status: Instock


Quantity:

Titanium Heaters are the safe alternative to glass heaters in both fresh and salt water aquaria.

The unbreakable titanium housing is sea water resistant and the heaters have both overheat and dry running protection cutouts.

These heaters must be used in combination with a temperature controller, and are ideal for use with any aquarium controller.

The Aqua Medic 500W Heater is ideal for aquariums up to 375 Gallons, and measures only 13" long.

Perfect, thanks

Cozwey
10/29/2013, 08:34 PM
They have lower wattage for cheaper as well. Shipping was free right now in Canada on orders about $100. I picked the Apex WXM for the ecotech MP40's I have as well.

FTDelta
10/29/2013, 08:44 PM
Your powerheads can also be the cause of rising temps in your tank - not just your heaters.

Cozwey
10/29/2013, 08:49 PM
The MP40's have the power outside the tank. Not sure if that would cause this.

UTCReefer
10/29/2013, 11:05 PM
Many people use two smaller heaters that way if one fails it wont cook the tank because its too small to. Mine is small enough on my 180 so that when it comes on it can just maintain the current temp and maybe raise it. Mostly i have it to keep the temp from dropping below 77. My 3x 400w Mh have no problem warming my tank back up each morning.

As a failsafe if the heater cant pull its weight and the temp drops to 76, i pop one of the mh lights on to help out.

dkeller_nc
10/30/2013, 07:56 AM
Looks like you've already solved the problem, but a comment about process control (which is what heating a tank is). 800 watts for a 105 gallon water volume is way too much unless the tank is in a room with a very cold air temperature (less than 60 deg F).

What happens when you use too much power is that the controllers in the heater, and possibly in the Apex, will "overshoot" your desired set point. Without getting into the math of PID controllers, just realize that from the standpoint of temperature control, you need to closely match the amount of input power into the heating elements to the amount of heat lost by the aquarium - "more is better" is definitely not true in this case.

Cozwey
10/30/2013, 07:22 PM
Thank you