I don't know whats wrong

[Jakenoon]

I can't get anything to work out, I have a 38 gal 2 and a half month old tank. The protein skimmer is still in break in progress because it's new. Other than that I have a filter, a heater, and LED lights. I have tons of algae which isn't a HUGE problem. But my fish keep dying. My Auriga butterfly died, my snowflake ocellaris pair both died, my orange spotted goby died, my lawn mower blenny jumped out and died a couple days later, my BTA died (that one was from shipping). most of these fish I had at different times. My dip tests come up ideal! I used trace elements but I stopped because I found out it could mess with the skimmer. I need help!!! Sometimes the fish get ich then die and sometimes they just die.the only fish that survived were my 2 firefish gobies. I got the protein skimmer to help with this but it just keeps overflowing. It's a eshopps psk75 and apparently overflowing maybe part of the break in but I don't know. I'm border line just giving up on the tank. Any experts, please help!

[austings]

I know you said theyre "ideal", but what are your water parameters? Protein skimmer wont help with Ich.

[Jakenoon]

I'm pretty new to this, what are water parameters?

[Jakenoon]

Oh and I got the protein skimmer to help with the algae and maybe make the water a little cleaner for the fish

[Sugar Magnolia]

We need the test results from ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, salinity. How much live rock is in the tank? How did you acclimate the fish? How much time between each addition?

Please read through all of the stickies at the top of this forum.

[Timfish]

If you are not quarintineing fish and have got introduced "ich" into your tank you really do need to leave your tank fishless for 3 months. This link is to a good paper on "ich": http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fa164

You do need to post your test results but as far as algae your system is still very new and a lot of "nuisance" algae should be expected. If you have access to Nilsen and Fossa's "The Modern Reef Aquarium" Vol I on pages 115 and 163 are "before" and "after" pictures of a reef setup where the liverock is covered with Bryopsis and Derbersia and after the system matures it disappears on it's own. Page 164 has an excellent chart of the algae cycles of a "typical" system during the maturing process which takes 9, 10 or even 12 months.

[Jakenoon]

I have the quick dip strips and they read "ideal" for all the parameters you mentioned and the salinity is 1.021 (total gravity) the method I have been using is floating the bags in the aquarium for 20 mins then adding 1/2 cup of aquarium water ever 5 mins then dumping half and continue. Then net and release to tank. And I put two firefish at first to cycle then like a month later I added an Auriga butterfly, a spotted goby, and a fire shrimp. They survived and healthy for about a month then I added the snowflake pair. Everything worked for a day then the Auriga showed signs of inch and started spiratically swimming and died. The next morning I found the goby dead with not a single sign of ich. Then after like 5 days the clownfish showed signs of inch and died over night, both of them. The firefish and the shrimp survived. The algae I have is green and is most likely hair algea

[gone fishin]

Go get yourself proper test kit. dip strips a pretty useless. In the beginning you can get by with an API test kit with ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.

[blu_devl_06]

Jake,

Dont give up on the hobby. Find a more experienced hobbyist that lives close to you to give you a hand. Read up and educate yourself before you act. If you live close to Norwalk Ohio, send me PM, I may be able to help you. Start with testing your water, salifert or elos test kits if you can get them.

[Jakenoon]

I spent a lot of money and am only 15 I really like it but I just can't figure this out

[blu_devl_06]

At your age, you need a mentor...look in the forums for a club that is local to you, and find someone that can guide you in the right direction. There is much to learn in running a successful salt water tank.

[Jakenoon]

I live in Marin county in California, any ideas for a club close to me? I don't have a lot of time to go anywhere with homework and school. But for now are there any ideas for the tank? Any tips?

[gone fishin]

http://reefcentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=538

Try here good luck

[acabgd]

But for now are there any ideas for the tank? Any tips?

Read the stickies!!

[nmbeg]

There are many different things that could be going on: nutrient levels off, disease, improper tank setup, overstocking--that's just to get started.

It will be difficult to find out exactly what's wrong without more info--give us details on how your tank is set up and pictures too. What equipment do you have? And we really need accurate measurements from accurate tests. For a beginner, impurities are often the first problem.

Also, you need to do a LOT of reading. Read the thousands of threads on this forum as well as a couple good books you can get from the library.

And don't get discouraged! Marine tanks are hard--but not impossible. (But yes expensive and time consuming)

[Jakenoon]

the water looks low because the skimmer keeps overflowing and the firefish look really healthy but they hid when i tried taking a pic. ive done hours of research over the past month but i cant find the answers to my problems

[nmbeg]

I think it's too early for any more fish--give your tank more time to cycle. Get the skimmer up and running. And test some parameters. Then report back.

[Jakenoon]

So what should I get to test the parameter because the apparently the dip kits don't work too well

[Reef Frog]

Bang in there you'll get it right. Regarding fish, don't add anything more for a few months ' let things stabilize. No more fish for around 90 days and they really shouldn't exceed 3" in size ideally. Let the system stabilize. QT in the future. Keep in mind you have ich exposure so read up on that.

Your algae is due to excess nutrients and need to be exported and this is a big topic but RC has much good info. Briopsis algae is really tough. Physically remove it one the firefish settled in. Turn the lights off or run them sparingly unless you have coral. Then go to war on the nutrients and follow the advice you see above you. You can win. Don't take this the wrong way please but you still have some learning to do nth at will assure future success! Good luck.

[nmbeg]

bang in there you'll get it right. Regarding fish, don't add anything more for a few months ' let things stabilize. No more fish for around 90 days and they really shouldn't exceed 3" in size ideally. Let the system stabilize. Qt in the future. Keep in mind you have ich exposure so read up on that.

Your algae is due to excess nutrients and need to be exported and this is a big topic but rc has much good info. Briopsis algae is really tough. Physically remove it one the firefish settled in. Turn the lights off or run them sparingly unless you have coral. Then go to war on the nutrients and follow the advice you see above you. You can win. Don't take this the wrong way please but you still have some learning to do nth at will assure future success! Good luck.

+1

[michfish5]

Go buy an APl Saltwater Master test kit. They are probably the cheapest master kit and readily available at places like Petsmart or Online. Then update us on all the test results. As for your skimmer you may need to adjust the height of your collection cup to stop the overflowing. Is the cup being filled with relatively clear water? And filling really quickly? It so then you need to raise the height of your cup. The skimmate should be brown and smelly.

And do read all the stickiness on top especially about quarantine and ich treatment. There is now icy in your tank and as long as the firefish are in there it will have hosts. Don't add anymore fish until you can put those fish ina QT and let your DT stay fallow.

[Jakenoon]

Yes the protein skimmer overflows clear water, haven't seen any dirty water taken out yet but it's only been running for a week now. The collection cup just goes on, it cannot adjust. The model is an eshopps psk-75. I cutoff the air intake so it runs without bubbles now (only solution I could find because it kept getting my floor soaked). Also I don't have a quarantine tank, so where should I put the firefish ?

[Newsmyrna80]

Yes the protein skimmer overflows clear water, haven't seen any dirty water taken out yet but it's only been running for a week now. The collection cup just goes on, it cannot adjust. The model is an eshopps psk-75. I cutoff the air intake so it runs without bubbles now (only solution I could find because it kept getting my floor soaked). Also I don't have a quarantine tank, so where should I put the firefish ?

Is there any way you can take him back to the LFS? If you haven't bought the test kits yet you shoud be able to take a water sample to a LFS (local fish store) and they should be able to perform the tests for you.
Another good website to use for reference is WetWebMedia.com
How did you cycle your tank?
Keep reading and don't give up!

[Jakenoon]

I got one of the firefish from just petco so I can't take that one back. I would not usually go to petco but the guy in my local one is very knowledgable and tell me to buy stuff elsewhere when it's better. I cycled my tank with just live sand, live rock, and saltwater for about a week (maybe 10 days) then added 2 firefish (the ones that survived)

[Reef Frog]

You can buy a 10g QT tank cheap but need a top for fire fish as they like to jump. A cheap HOB filter will work to keep water moving but you need to read up on the QT process as there is an ammonia build up issue to deal with.

My advice is to slow down, keep the remaining fish in the tank for now & concentrate on the algae problem. They are probably stressed already and don't need more IMO.

The skimmer probably isn't even broke in yet so be patient. It's got to have an air adjustment knob. You need to reposition if somehow as an overflow can happen at anytime.

[malcojo]

^ +1 Slow down a bit. At 2.5 months you added a lot of livestock. Let the tank mature a bit. Skimmer sounds like a water level issue.

[Jakenoon]

So for a quarantine tank I would only need a ten gal tank and a HOB filter? No other equipment, rocks, sand etc.? Do I need to cycle it first?

[Jakenoon]

I'm also thinking I may return the protein skimmer for a different model. Any suggestions for a HOB protein skimmer for a 38 gal?

[Josh40996]

So far it looks like you are moving along too quickly, slow down :)

As already mentioned, do not add anymore fish from this point until everything is under control. You need to get a test kit for Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate and post your results to get the "cause and solutions" to your problems. I am a Student and so feel for you on the money issue, its an expensive hobby but does not have to cost the world :) A good test kit could easily last you a year and are one of the cheapest items for a SW tank. Invest in one as soon as you can and it will save you heartache, headaches and money.

Some dechlorinators cause skimmers to become over active and overflow. The only solution to this problem is to change dechlorinator brand or use RO/DI water. This may not be your problem, but it is something to think about.

Keep up your hard work, its a lot to take in at first but once you get the hang of it, you'll be laughing at yourself once you have a thriving aquarium. ;)

[spieszak]

I'm also thinking I may return the protein skimmer for a different model. Any suggestions for a HOB protein skimmer for a 38 gal?
I ran an eshopps HOB for a long time and was happy with it.
This thread http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1708524 is pages long, but you may find some answers to adjustments for it there. While mine was breaking in, I ran it to where it had no hope of actually collecting anything just to allow the slime coat to build up. I ran it about 3/4 full, for about a week, then adjusted up slowly. One other thing to consider with skimmers in general is that they will 'go nuts' from even some of the safest things you add to to water, including when you feed the fish. I ran mine on its own power strip so that I could turn it on and off without have to mess with the plug. It was much easier in the sense that a lot of times when I wanted to shut it down for a few minutes, my hands were wet. Playing with the plug at that point is a bad idea, but I could "dry off" enough to flip the switch.
And I agree with what most others have said. Take a deep breath and allow the tank to do so also. Plan before you do and you'll be able to work it all out.

[Jakenoon]

You said you adjusted it up and up? Mine overflows on the lowest setting

[Jakenoon]

I just started running mine without the air cutoff (since it was overflowing) and now it's working very nicely, it's producing small bubbles dark foam, hasn't collected any yet because I need to adjust it up but thanks for the help. Any help for setting up a QT?

[spieszak]

Here is a good thread for QT setup
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2195588

[Jakenoon]

So this is odd, I tried adjusting it and when the bubbles get past the start of the neck it starts producing huge bubbles and overflows clear water

[Josh40996]

As fun as it is playing with a protein skimmer, stop playing with it :D When you adjust a skimmer, it can take a day or so for the change to take full effect. The higher up you run the water level in the neck, the wetter/clearer the skimmate. Set the water level just below the neck for now and review it in a day, if it needs raising, adjust slightly and repeat.

Good luck.

[Mrscribbled]

I agree with the stuff mentioned above, but would suggest doing more research on livestock for future purposes. A 38 gallon is not large enough for butterflies, and anemones and butterflies can't generally be kept together.

[Newsmyrna80]

Do you have a LFS around there to have them check your water parameters? I have a feeling your tank is not completely cycled. If nothing else buy an ammonia test kit. You can probably get one of those at Petco.

[Jakenoon]

I'm going to go get adi test kits now. On the quick dip tests my ammonia came out ideal

[Mrscribbled]

Ammonia MUST be zero, even the smallest amount will kill livestock.

[Jakenoon]

The results are:
Ph- 8.0
Ammonia- .25 ppm
Nitrite- 0 ppm
Nitrate- 10 ppm
Phosphate- .25

[Mrscribbled]

..25 ammonia is a huge problem, if this result is a 100 percent accurate, either you have some die off going on still, or your way over feeding. Typically the nitrates would be higher then though.

[FTDelta]

Nothing was mention whether he cycled his tank (or completed his cycle) - so that's one real possibility. The second one he's not QTing his fish - a huge no-no.

HOB filter are garbage in SW. Stick with a skimmer (since you have one anyways) for it does a far better job keeping your tank clean. Ditch the test strips - total garbage and unreliable. Invest in a good quality master test kit.

And finally SLOW DOWN! Read and research everything about how to run a successful saltwater tank. Read the stickies!!

[Jakenoon]

So how do I fix the ammonia? And yes I cycled but how do you know if it's cycled completely? Are stickies the same as forums? I can't find the stickies

[Roger30]

What do you have in the canister? I started my tank in sept and I just added my first fish! Slow and simple is the key. Also, find someone who has been doing this for awhile that can help you. Lastly, I cycled my tank with two pumps and a protein skimmer only. Work on the skimmer and your flow. And give it time

[mikeyj28]

So how do I fix the ammonia? And yes I cycled but how do you know if it's cycled completely? Are stickies the same as forums? I can't find the stickies

The stickies are the first 12 posts on the "new to the hobby" main page. Just hang in there we all had a time in our life where we rushed things and had to learn from our mistakes. Just take any advice you can get. My advice is read read read, ask a million questions (there are no dumb questions) and be patient

[mikeyj28]

You cannot fix ammonia it has to come down on its own, just keep testing. When it reads 0 do a water change of a minimum of 10%

[Josh40996]

Looks like you have the answer to your problem now :) The aquarium is not fully cycled. I would suggest that you stop feeding for now, but your tank has ich and you need to keep your fish in good health to help fight off any secondary infections Ich causes. Therefore, since you can't quit feeding, I would suggest that you do an immediate water change to reduce ammonia concentration.

Hang in there!

[Jakenoon]

So after the water change I just hope for the best? Or what do I do

[Jakenoon]

I guess I just have bad luck because my fire shrimp just had a bad molt and lost all his legs

[nmbeg]

One thing to keep in mind--cycling is kind of an ongoing process. The initial cycle allows your tank to establish a colony of beneficial bacteria that can handle bioload. When you start stocking your tank, you introduce a lot of bioload quickly, and the tank doesn't have enough bacteria to support it, so the bacteria multiply to consume all the extra bioload. This is called homeostasis, and is a continual process forever.

Even if you had a successful initial cycle, adding a lot of fish at once causes a mini-cycle because the increased bioload can't be handled by the existing bacteria, and wastes build up while the bacteria multiply. And you ammonia could start to spike, causing death of a lot of good things, not just fish, and worsening the cycle.

I think that's where you are now. That's why everyone says "slow down!" Give the tank time to stabilize, check the test kits religiously, and don't give up!

Ps random thought--where are you getting your water?

[Jakenoon]

I have been using tap water and I know that's a problem, I just ordered a four stage RO and DI unit

[Jakenoon]

How do I know when my tank is fully cycled?

[nmbeg]

I have been using tap water and I know that's a problem, I just ordered a four stage RO and DI unit

this will go a LONG way to fixing your problems.

[acabgd]

How do I know when my tank is fully cycled?

When you introduce ammonia up to 2-3ppm and within 24 hours it goes down to 0ppm ammonia and 0ppm nitrites.

[Jakenoon]

Introduce ammonia?

[nmbeg]

You can introduce ammonia into your tank to 1) kick-start a cycle, which I don't think you need to do, since you are in the middle of a cycle already, or 2) to test your tank's ability to handle ammonia--you put ammonia into the tank and take a reading a day later to see if ammonia and nitrite went to zero. If yes, then your tank is ready for the first 1 fish.

you can add straight ammonia from a hardware store, or it can be natural ammonia from something alive (or dead) in your tank.

in your case, you already have fish in there, so you DO NOT want to add any more ammonia, lest you kill an already stressed animal. you'll just have to keep testing until it goes to zero.

[mpfeiffer1]

For now- Do religiously 20% WaterChanges every week with good saltwater bought at a respectable LFS and do not put anything in your tank for 60 days. Then add a few snails and small blue-leg crabs as a clean-up crew. This will cure 95% of your problems. Replace all evaporated water with RODI water. DO not wait for your RODI Filter to come in (+1 on that purchase), buy RODI water from LFS for now and keep 10 gallons on-hand at all times. My estimates are for a 38 gallon you should be evaporating .5 gallons per day. You need to replace that daily or your salinity will go up and down. Keep Salinity high for now (1.024) as this can create a buffer if you miss Topping Off your aquarium for 24 hours. Water consistency is your goal. You need to do a little research on PH, Alk, Calcium, Magnesium, Salinity, Water Temperature, Phosphates, Nitrates, Nitrites, and Ammonia. Just understanding Why they go up and down is a good start to controlling these parameters... Add as much live rock as you can as this is your absolute best filter. With a bucket of fresh Saltwater, take your rock out and scrub it silly with a toothbrush until all the algae is off of it. Your rock may not had been cured (ready) that may also be causing your cycle to delay. Read up on curing live rock as well as the cycling process as it is an amazing process. Join your local Marine Aquarium Society (MAS) and look at other set-ups that include refugiums, sumps, and other filters such as GFO, Carbon, Calcium Reactors, and even biopellets. I know you may not know what those are right now, but you will learn. Every aquarium you see look at the filtration system as that is the heart of the aquarium as well as lungs. You took a big first step posting on Reefcentral as you will find all your answers here and more. Congrats and hang in there. For me California and Florida are two of the best places to be in this hobby. GL...

[michfish5]

On your skimmer have you adjusted the return pipe with the dot? Try moving that up or down to reduce the output to the cup. You may also want to cap the drain pipe or run it into a container to avoid any more spills.

[Jakenoon]

For now- Do religiously 20% WaterChanges every week with good saltwater bought at a respectable LFS and do not put anything in your tank for 60 days. Then add a few snails and small blue-leg crabs as a clean-up crew. This will cure 95% of your problems. Replace all evaporated water with RODI water. DO not wait for your RODI Filter to come in (+1 on that purchase), buy RODI water from LFS for now and keep 10 gallons on-hand at all times. My estimates are for a 38 gallon you should be evaporating .5 gallons per day. You need to replace that daily or your salinity will go up and down. Keep Salinity high for now (1.024) as this can create a buffer if you miss Topping Off your aquarium for 24 hours. Water consistency is your goal. You need to do a little research on PH, Alk, Calcium, Magnesium, Salinity, Water Temperature, Phosphates, Nitrates, Nitrites, and Ammonia. Just understanding Why they go up and down is a good start to controlling these parameters... Add as much live rock as you can as this is your absolute best filter. With a bucket of fresh Saltwater, take your rock out and scrub it silly with a toothbrush until all the algae is off of it. Your rock may not had been cured (ready) that may also be causing your cycle to delay. Read up on curing live rock as well as the cycling process as it is an amazing process. Join your local Marine Aquarium Society (MAS) and look at other set-ups that include refugiums, sumps, and other filters such as GFO, Carbon, Calcium Reactors, and even biopellets. I know you may not know what those are right now, but you will learn. Every aquarium you see look at the filtration system as that is the heart of the aquarium as well as lungs. You took a big first step posting on Reefcentral as you will find all your answers here and more. Congrats and hang in there. For me California and Florida are two of the best places to be in this hobby. GL... ok so I'm going to do all of that, thank you very much. Today I'm setting up a qt tank and Putin the firefish and fire shrimp in there while I take out my live rock and scrub it and add some new cured live rock at the same time. I was wondering if it's better to have stacks of a few big rocks or stacks of a lot of small rock

[mpfeiffer1]

I know others will have their opinion but i think it is all about surface area to grow good bacteria. Do NOT put any old rock in your qt tank as you will just bring in the ich. GL.

[Jakenoon]

Do you need to cycle qt?

[Mrscribbled]

I use Inatant ocean bio spira to instantly cycle sponge filters or HOB filters.

[pjwperth]

It sounds like this guy is fishing and looks like hes caught a lot to

[Jakenoon]

I'm going to leave the tank fish less for 60 days and fix the water. Is it safe to keep the firefish in the quarantine for 60 days? And do I need to take my snails and hermits out of the display?

[StaySalty]

I'm going to leave the tank fish less for 60 days and fix the water. Is it safe to keep the firefish in the quarantine for 60 days? And do I need to take my snails and hermits out of the display?

Unless anyone else can correct me, I dont see why it wouldn't be safe. Just remember that a QT is just a seperate tank from your display so you'll need to do water changes, keep it topped off, and other various pieces of maintenance depending on how you set it up.

You can take some of your snails and hermits out of the display if you want to and add them to your QT after its cycled.

[JAnwyl]

I haven't seen anything here that I disagree with (especially adjusting the skimmer and waiting a day) I would add that Live Rock is a huge help.

My Brother had a saltwater tank and had horrible luck with it. This was in 1995 or about. No live rock or protein skimmers, Think it was starting in Germany as Berlin method.

My Saltwater tanks started in 2002 or so and I've noticed that the live rock is hugely beneficial and skimmers. 1 pound live rock per gallon is what I believe is recommended. I think my 24 had about 20 pounds and my 50 plus sump was around 65 gallons and 75 pounds of live rock. Clowns and Gobys are in my opinion the toughest fish I've had. You didn't mention live rock. Go slow, 1 inch fish per 5 gallons and 60 days to cycle maybe 90. (Some may disagree with the fish rule but to start maybe its good)

[Jakenoon]

Once I get this running and stable for a year or so is the tank big enough for a flame angel? I really am interested in them

[Mark9]

Once I get this running and stable for a year or so is the tank big enough for a flame angel? I really am interested in them

liveaquaria.com has tank size recommendations for all fish.
says 70 gallons

click me (http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=15+16+444&pcatid=444)

[Jakenoon]

I went to this huge LFS in catati, ca. I told the owner what you all suggested (the 60 day wait) he said it was over kill and I should run it for 2 or so weeks after I fix my ich problem and I would be set

[Mark9]

I went to this huge LFS in catati, ca. I told the owner what you all suggested (the 60 day wait) he said it was over kill and I should run it for 2 or so weeks after I fix my ich problem and I would be set

Then I guess it's just who you want to believe.
Why ask for help in forums then dismiss the answers?

[Mrscribbled]

I went to this huge LFS in catati, ca. I told the owner what you all suggested (the 60 day wait) he said it was over kill and I should run it for 2 or so weeks after I fix my ich problem and I would be set

Two weeks won't fix any parasite problem. Read though the fish disease section. You'll find some very useful info there.

[Jakenoon]

I know. I'm treating with some natural parasite killer. I think it's called herbatana? I'm not sure but anyway I think I'm gonna stick with 60 days but all his tanks look perfect and he says he only cycles for a week. Why does it work for him? Also how long should I get my tank running (once it's perfect) before I start adding easy corals? He said a month but that doesn't sound right. All his look perfect though

[Cozwey]

Many people have many ideas. There is no one set way to do things. You Have to read and research all the time. I never stop. RC is a great place. There are many experienced reefers here. Your LFS is in the business of retail sales. They WANT to sell you things. For my part I suggest you go slow. Take your time. Get you main system figured out. The cycle of a tank NEEDS to happen. There are variables that can increase how quickly it does. The amount and age of your LR and LS play a big part in this. Ammonia building up naturally in the tank as the bacteria grow and then the bacteria produce Nitrite and then Finally Nitrate. Only then should you add the cleaning crew. A good way to see if your tank is cycled besides the test of your water is to add something that will cause an ammonia spike. Many people suggest dropping a frozen shrimp in your tank. This will start to decompose and produce ammonia. If your tank has fully cycled then the good bacteria will turn the ammonia into Nitrite and Nitrate and it will disappear. After a day or so remove the shrimp test the water for a couple days and if your tests all read zero you can begin adding (SLOWLY) livestock. The first thing is the clean up crew. LEt them get to work cleaning the tank of any algae. When your tank is cycling it WILL have algae. this is when it gets removed. Once that is done you can add a fish or two. The waste of the fish is filtered by the bacteria on rocks. If you have enough rock then the bio load should be manageable. Rushing this process can create issues. As for a QT. You should QT new fish for several weeks. I currently have over $2000 of fish and coral in my main tank. If I put any fish in and they have a parasite what does that mean for me??? Trouble….. A QT is simple. You make saltwater. put a filter of some kind and then drop fish in. There is no rock in the QT so you have to change the water more often because you don't have the nice friendly bacteria taking the ammonia out for you. Its a lot of work. Some people choose not to do this. That is their business. Short cut are common. It is up to you how you want to proceed. Cheap test kit are ok but the more serious you get the more accurate you will want. IF you spend a lot of money on a special fish or coral then it seams to me you would want a good test kit. Eventually you can stop testing every day once you get more comfortable with you water chemistry. IF you plan on coral then you WILL cross yet another line that becomes much more involved. Please do much research before you step over that line.

[Jakenoon]

Everyone here has said my tank is not fully cycled. I'm going to do the 60 day wait and cycle it but I have a full clean up crew. I can't take them all out ? What do I do

[Jakenoon]

New tests
Ph:7.9
Ammonia: 0 to .25 (hard to tell)
Nitrate and nitrite: 0
Phosphate: 2

[Cozwey]

If your PO4 is at 2 that is pretty high. I was worried as mine is .10. You want zero or as close to it. Any ammonia is bad. The CUC can be left it if you want. They are pretty hardy usually.