150g used setup Going from FOWLR to Reef tank, need plumbing help!!!

[ScienceFishGuy]

I need some help and advice on plumbing. I have got all this stuff used and need to know the best way to plumb it. 150g has 1 overflow and 2 returns in the bottom of the tank. It came with a wet/dry sump, protein skimmer I cant even identify - has a rio pump, sea clear canister and UV light. I have heard that wet/dry and canister is no good for reef tank. Want to get this up and running with out dropping the bank.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=254162&stc=1&d=1385616153

[Nanook]

[moved]

[Sonyardo]

If it were mine. I would convert the wet/dry to a standard sump or buy a used tank and convert it to a sump / refugium and customize it the way that I would want it. This is the time to research your options on the sump/fuge layout. I would run the Protein skimmer in the sump, but, The other filters would not be used in my tank.

[PaulieReef]

Couple of things, as said above I would go with a standard sump, its amazing for reef tanks. Sump would consist of 3 chambers, return, refudgium (sp?) and intake. The intake you could either run filter socks or not, but that is were the protein skimmer would run.

You can look up some pretty cheap sump designs. I did my entire sump for about 55 bucks. I waited till petco had their dollar per gallon sale, bought a 40g tank. Went to local hardware store and bought some glass panes that they cut for me for like 15, and some 100% silicone. So maybe like 60 bucks.

You can look up some easy DIY sumps that are super effective. And will be a lot better for your reef tank. Get rid of/sell the UV light and all the other stuff and get yourself a used /new tank.

I would get as big as you can fit in your sump minus enough for possible reactors on each side. As far as plumbing for overflows, there are multiple "silent" DIYs out there as well.

[ScienceFishGuy]

Thanks , What about the returns? Should I plug the holes in the bottom of the tank or continue using the holes in the bottom of the tank as the return and put some one way values on it.

[Sonyardo]

I would use the holes with the sump. No one way valves should be necessary if you set it up correctly.

[Indymann99]

Now is the time for you to read up on Bean Animal or Herbie drain systems. Even if you need to run return lines up over the back that is no big deal. Acrylic tank is easy to drill so you can increase the size of the holes in the overflow if necessary. My Herbie drain has been running for 5yrs and is dead silent.

Also I cant tell from the picture if the tank is scratched (inside or out). With the tank empty its pretty easy to sand and polish all the scratches out now.

As the tank is used I would perform a leak test now in the garage. If you dont have a stand just place it on a sheet of 3/4" or greater plywood.

+1 on getting the biggest sump you can fit under your stand. However dont forget about ATO reservoir.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn10/Indymann99/Sump12132009.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn10/Indymann99/SumpATO.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn10/Indymann99/PumpONOFF.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn10/Indymann99/TankCabclosed.jpg

[ScienceFishGuy]

254366


I dont really have any room in the overflow for the Herby method. So I should just plug the holes and the drill some new returns at the very top? Its a weird over flow , on the side of the plumbing there is 1.5 pipe and cut out in the top of the overflow but on the other side it has a partion and cut outs are in the bottom of the overflow.

[ScienceFishGuy]

Sorry having trouble attaching Pics for some reason. Thanks for the advice:spin1:

[Indymann99]

That overflow looks pretty small, but if you can get 2x 1in pipes in there then a Herbie will work.

The "centipede" returns on the bottom of the tank should really only be used for a "closed loop" system, with them that low in the tank you will drain a LOT of water into the sump.. (like 3/4 of the tank)... doubt your sump will handle that.. and dont rely on a check valve as they always fail in a marine system.

I would just run the return line (3/4 or 1in PVC) up the outside back of the tank and over and have the water exit at the surface. this also helps with surface agitation.

http://s300.photobucket.com/user/Indymann99/media/Surfaceag.mp4.html

[ScienceFishGuy]

What would you do with the holes in the bottom of tank???

Also the over flow is not very wide so I have currently 1* 1.5in tube with that device on the top to help make it silent cant remeber what that type is called. I could drill from the bottom on the left side of overflow and make that the emergency drain.

[Indymann99]

As for the holes on the bottom of the tank, you could just plug them with bulkheads that are capped. Or you could use WeldOn (acrylic glue) and some small squares of acrylic.

If your current drain tube is 1.5 in I would see if you could drill another 1.5 hole for a Herbie emergency drain. If you can only drill a 1in hole next to the existing 1.5 , I would use the 1in as the primary and the 1.5 as the emergency. A 1in drain (full siphon) should be sufficient for a 150g. Then just run your return line up over the back.