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View Full Version : Battling Hair Algae - need advice on GFO & Carbon


Stickboy97
02/24/2014, 04:23 PM
I have been battling a terrible hair algae outbreak for about 9 months now. I took out half my rocks and I'm cooking them in a tub, the other half I take out once a week & scrub them with a brush. I have totally emptied my refugium & rebuilt it.

Now I'm to the point I think I need to add a GFO reactor or maybe carbon (need advice here).

I was wondering. I have 3 canister filters sitting around on a shelf doing nothing. Can I convert one of those into a media reactor?

If so, what do I need to do? I was thinking about using my small eheim 2215 (I also have a 2217) and a bag of carbon or GFO, and trying to filter out some of the phosphates in my tank.

Is this possible? Will it work properly? Should I not put it in a bag (so it tumbles)?

Anyone done this? Pics?

Thanks!!!!!

PS I tried to search but didn't find any examples of what I am thinking about doing.

Pokerman11
02/24/2014, 09:09 PM
Is your phosphate high?

GFO is easy to build a DIY reactor. The key is to get it to 'tumble' just a bit, with a valve to adjust. I do not think it can be done via a media bag. I have a dual reactor GFO, and then with some carbon before the return.

This guy on youtube did a setup with a BRS duel reactor, finishing with carbon. Watch this it may give you some ideas and you can see how GFO needs to tumble. All and all I just spent the $60 and got the BRS kit. Note, this guy put in the "foam" pieces - (except to hold the carbon in). I don't use any foam as GFO does not need it and I feel they are nitrate sponges.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gm3HBOdpMIU

grmpfish17
02/24/2014, 09:27 PM
I'm using the BRS single reactor with BIO pellets the important thing is to make them tumble. Make sure you have a strong enough pump don't waste your money on to small of a pump (hint my first mistake) the pellets will get all clumped and get nasty.

I also use phosguard in one also, you don't need as much flow and can use a small pump. No need to tumble it will just turn the stuff to dust.

I'm fighting the same thing in my 90 gal and slowing winning. My 150 has none and I use the same ro water for both just one of natures little thing I guess.

bravanc
02/25/2014, 08:53 AM
there are a few things we need to know, how old/new is the tank? are you using RO water? are the filters new or need replacing what is the TDS reading coming from the RO unit? what lighting are you using, are the bulbs old/new? do you have enough circulation in the tank? what is your lighting schedule? are they on too long?

Usually when i see these symptons i check my water comming out the RO system and change the filters if needed. I back off on the feeding and if it still persist then i look into replacing the bulbs. You may want to turn off the lights for a few days and see if this controls it some to get the upper hand. Get a Lawnmower Blenny

Stickboy97
02/25/2014, 09:17 AM
Good questions:
1) I use RO water, but that was my original issue. Waited too long to change the filters & the water got bad (they are all new now, and I change them per the schedule from Air Water Ice). The tank is in my office, I was traveling a lot, and HA got me for not paying attention
2) tank is about 5 yrs old
3) 4 t5 bulbs, changed those too when the HA started to get bad (about 7 months ago)
4) circulation pumps were probably also a problem, just replaced them 2 weeks ago with 2 WP-25's (these things are strong!)
5) Bluer tinted lights come on at 8 am, white come on at 9am. white go off at 4 pm blue at 5 pm (lights are Aquablue, Purple Plus, Midday & True Actinic)

Since it started I have replaced my RO/DI Filters, my bulbs, my pumps, upgraded my fug (made it bigger), upgraded my Skimmer (HOB to a Reef Oct in sump), bought a ton of snails & crabs & a Lawnmower Blenny (who I haven't seen eat any HA). I tore my tank apart, vacuumed all the sand and scrubbed all the rocks with a brush (twice). I decreased my feeding schedule to every other day (was feeding everyday, probably also an issue). The stuff just keeps coming back!

there are a few things we need to know, how old/new is the tank? are you using RO water? are the filters new or need replacing what is the TDS reading coming from the RO unit? what lighting are you using, are the bulbs old/new? do you have enough circulation in the tank? what is your lighting schedule? are they on too long?

Usually when i see these symptons i check my water comming out the RO system and change the filters if needed. I back off on the feeding and if it still persist then i look into replacing the bulbs. You may want to turn off the lights for a few days and see if this controls it some to get the upper hand. Get a Lawnmower Blenny

fishgate
02/25/2014, 11:13 AM
Try this - I had horrible hair and bryosis and this cleared it right up. Took just 2 doses and around 1-2 months. I also run GFO though (always have).

Pulling the algae never worked for me. It always ended up making the problem worse. With the below I just added it and waiting and the algae died off and hasn't come back yet.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3989+4098&pcatid=4098

bravanc
02/25/2014, 11:17 AM
Sounds like you have it all covered. In your refugium do you have any cheato or micro algae of some sort? do you have a light on it as well? i have my light on my refugium on 24/7.
i would do larger water changes and try turning off the lights for a few days. maybe that will help you get started on controlling it. you'll have to keep going and it will take some time. supprised your blenny is not taking care of it. Mine has completely taken care of my small outbreak. good luck and let us know how it goes

ReeferBill
02/25/2014, 11:22 AM
I finally got rid of my bryopsis and bubble algae by raising magnesium to 1550ppm- 1600 ppm now I have stopped the Tech M Mag from Kent. I did also add Fritsyme 9 to every water change to boost the biological filter in the live rock... Try it and you will not be disappointed.

bryanracing95
02/25/2014, 12:36 PM
Start dosing vodka! I have not looked back since starting it, no more wasted money on gfo

david pinder
02/25/2014, 02:32 PM
I second tech m to 1600 to rid of bryopsis but do add aireation and cut off skimmer

Stickboy97
02/25/2014, 02:43 PM
I have a red/blue LED grow light on my refugium, works great. I have 3 types of macro in there.... and the HA got in there too. Went crazy with that grow light. Last weekend I broke the whole thing down, cleaned it out & saved what macro I could. Took out the sand, just a glass bottom now with macro & live rock.... Now I can clean it easier.

Sounds like you have it all covered. In your refugium do you have any cheato or micro algae of some sort? do you have a light on it as well? i have my light on my refugium on 24/7.
i would do larger water changes and try turning off the lights for a few days. maybe that will help you get started on controlling it. you'll have to keep going and it will take some time. supprised your blenny is not taking care of it. Mine has completely taken care of my small outbreak. good luck and let us know how it goes

Stickboy97
02/25/2014, 02:44 PM
Start dosing vodka! I have not looked back since starting it, no more wasted money on gfo

Was going to start dosing, but figured I have 3 canister filters sitting around doing nothing. If I could convert one of those into a reactor why not.

Stickboy97
02/25/2014, 02:45 PM
I finally got rid of my bryopsis and bubble algae by raising magnesium to 1550ppm- 1600 ppm now I have stopped the Tech M Mag from Kent. I did also add Fritsyme 9 to every water change to boost the biological filter in the live rock... Try it and you will not be disappointed.

Will measure my mag and see where it is, normally it is around 1400. Maybe I should try raising it.

Stickboy97
02/25/2014, 02:46 PM
I used that the first time I had a small outbreak & it worked, but this one was huge. I actually have half my live rock cooking in a tub with no light, and I have been adding this to that. We'll see.

Try this - I had horrible hair and bryosis and this cleared it right up. Took just 2 doses and around 1-2 months. I also run GFO though (always have).

Pulling the algae never worked for me. It always ended up making the problem worse. With the below I just added it and waiting and the algae died off and hasn't come back yet.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3989+4098&pcatid=4098

RobinsonFam1
02/26/2014, 02:08 PM
i had a similar problem and finally got it under control using a canister filter...

i bought a canister filter and used it to suck up algae and detritus as i scrubbed rocks inside the tank. i only have a 30 gal now and it took me just over 2 hours. i also added 5 turbo snails, 15 margaritas and 3 astreas.

we too were pulling rocks and scrubbing them in buckets and placing back in tank, etc etc....i should have jsut done the filter trick right away. also 20% water changes every week for over a month, increased evap which added kalk through top off.

HA SUCKS!

garyinco
02/27/2014, 07:57 PM
Do you know what your phosphate level is? I will never run another tank w/o one of the Hanna Phosphate Checkers around. All the other tests I ever ran were a complete waste of time. Never could tell where the reading was. Had an old LaMotte test kit that was almost usable but it was still a guess. I wish Hanna would some out w/ a liquid reagent though. Their powered version makes getting thru the test procedure a pain, IMO.

Pokerman11
02/28/2014, 05:29 PM
As a solution to get it under control. I just did to my 29g is to take the rocks out and pour peroxide (right from the bottle) over the rock. (I do it into an empty bucket) Wait 1-2 min and then dunk in an other bucket of tankwater to rinse.

Generaly one peroxide dip will kill any HA on the rock. Much easier than scrubbing

Sk8r
02/28/2014, 05:37 PM
You don't have to cook the rock. Just set up and run a large enough GFO (i honestly think about 1 reactor per 50 gallons or the large economy size reactor) for about 3 months. Meanwhile be patient.

uncleof6
02/28/2014, 06:07 PM
You don't need to purchase and maintain GFO either, or purchase an overpriced reactor. Set up a bucket dsb, (home depot 5 gal bucket works good); give it good flow and clean water, and forget about it—no need to replenish the "media" on a regular basis as you do with GFO. Run it for 3 months, and watch your problem disappear, without the "risk" involved with reducing phosphates to unnacceptable levels. Phosphates are necessary for life, and it is not really wise to reduce them to near zero with the use of GFO. Wave bye bye to the hair algae, without the hassle of GFO or any other method of phosphate control. Those methods are completely unnecessary. More biology, and less technology.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=595109&highlight=bucket+dsb

Pokerman11
03/01/2014, 03:44 PM
I did the peroxide on a few rocks two days ago. Wow - totally nuked the HA. Poured right out of the bottle (new $.92 bottle from local drug store just opened) on the trouble spots then waited 2min. (Waiting 1 min I had to retreat, so 2min sees to be the magic time)

elmatth1
03/02/2014, 10:17 AM
I had no luck using the Algaefix dosing, but the H202 treatment worked great for me, too! Just make sure you keep your phosphate and other parameters in check or it'll come back again.

uncleof6
03/02/2014, 02:27 PM
A better solution is always going to be fixing the problem rather than using hydrogen peroxide or other chemical additives to nuke nuisance algae. These remedies are all based on "I don't have the patience to do things right."

It needs to be reiterated again, because the topic of phosphate is repetitively mentioned. Algae require many things in order to proliferate. Among them are light, iron, copper, nitrate, phosphate, water. Due to the mass marketing strategies concerning Phosban, GFO, and similar products, phosphate is getting an unfair bashing as the cause of all evil algae problems.

Although it is safe to reduce nitrates to, or near, zero—it is not safe to reduce phosphate to these levels using "phosphate removers." Phosphate is essential for life, and its absence means no life, or hindered life processes. It is only necessary to limit one of the necessities. I really wonder how we managed to go for years with nuisance algae free tanks, before marketing hype made GFO (Iron Oxide/Iron Rust,) and similar products an essential system component, or "standard." I strongly suspect any method that requires the continuous input of money to maintain, e.g. replenishing the media, and repetitive dosing, (save calcium/alkalinity) when set it and forget it methods are readily available, do not require expensive pretty acrylic reactors, with no possible harmful side effects (if set up properly...) Most, if not all, of the marketing strategies depend on what you don't know, rather than what you do know.

Your money would be more wisely spent, by obtaining a more efficient skimmer and setting the system up to maximize its potential, because dissolved organics are the root cause of evil in marine systems.

AlphaSig
03/02/2014, 07:13 PM
I might get critisized for this but I have blue leg hermits and they do amazing work on any hair algae in the tank except for what's on the power heads.

uncleof6
03/02/2014, 11:31 PM
I might get critisized for this but I have blue leg hermits and they do amazing work on any hair algae in the tank except for what's on the power heads.

Hermits are oportunistic feeders, they do an excellent job of algae control. The unfortunate side of it is since all crabs are oportunistic feeders, fish can and do mysteriously disappear, along with a variety of other critters. Crabs should not be classified as "reef safe." In fact, they are not classified as reef safe. There are some that are less damaging than others, but they all need careful attention.