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View Full Version : Stand and canopy


cqdesigns89
04/28/2014, 08:44 PM
Hi there everyone. Hey rocketenigner I have a 120 gallon tank and Im looking to build and stand and canopy for it I would like to use 4x4 's on the in side of the frame on the four corners and one on the back wall and the top 2x6 for the top fram should I use 2x6 for the bottom frame or will 2x4's work all the way around for the framing and I will be putting cross boards at the bottom frame and the top frame just to make sure ;) just trying to figure out if this would work or not I'm open for anything the tank foot prints or 48" long x 24" wide x 25 1/2 tall it's glass with brown trim on it. Help please I'm moving in to my new house next month on the 20 and I need to start building on this stand

Indymann99
04/29/2014, 06:08 AM
I would not use 4x4 posts as they tend to twist more than 2x4 lumber, and waste interior space. 2x4 construction will be more than sufficient to support that tank and span 48".

fishgate
04/29/2014, 08:27 AM
All 2x4s is fine for that size tank but for added strength make the top frame out of 2x6s.

davocean
04/29/2014, 12:14 PM
I don't like using 4x's, hard to get them straight enough, not good for connection points.
This is how I do mine, and i do a 2x6 rim like mentioned, and a removable center brace.
If it is a trimmed tank this is all you need, trimless may get a subtop of ply and center joist support.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e141/mermail/Mynew150gstarfire014-2.jpg (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/mermail/media/Mynew150gstarfire014-2.jpg.html)

SGT_York
04/29/2014, 01:52 PM
2 2x4's in an L shape are stronger, cheaper, and will last longer than 4x4's.

a 2x6 is a much better option for the header board, a 2x4 may work but they don't attach near as well due to the lack of shearing strength from the screws/nails, and lower bending capacity of the 2x4. If you skin with a good solid plywood 2x4's will work splendidly. 2x4's work great for the bottom pieces and front to back.

Also when you place your top header board place it crown up (should be as straight of board as possible but all have a slight curve) You don't want a U shape for that header board. A slight U shape upside down will hold the weight.

ridetheducati
04/29/2014, 03:17 PM
2x8 Header

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y15/ridetheducati/Looking%20Glass%20Build/Standbuild16.jpg

cqdesigns89
04/29/2014, 07:14 PM
Thanks guys. Davocean I like that look of that stand just don't look like the skinning wood would lay flat guess I could put another piece of board to flush it out for I could skin it does anyone else have any pictures for ideas I could look at maybe I could combined a few togeather hahahahaha

davocean
04/29/2014, 09:11 PM
Thanks guys. Davocean I like that look of that stand just don't look like the skinning wood would lay flat guess I could put another piece of board to flush it out for I could skin it does anyone else have any pictures for ideas I could look at maybe I could combined a few togeather hahahahaha

Well it will lay flat, but I do my stands a little different.
My skins are a 3 sided freestanding skin, and I can remove it completely so I can get to gear/sump when or if I ever need to.
This is my own personal stand/cab.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e141/mermail/octocab021.jpg (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/mermail/media/octocab021.jpg.html)

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e141/mermail/octocab043.jpg (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/mermail/media/octocab043.jpg.html)

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e141/mermail/octocabfinished006-1.jpg (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/mermail/media/octocabfinished006-1.jpg.html)

redgator
04/29/2014, 09:28 PM
I did mine with just 2x4s and it was super strong. I wouldn't worry about it and it saves a lot of internal space.

Fishyoga
04/29/2014, 09:58 PM
Daveocean-
Love the idea of, and the look of your skins!
I'll have to keep that in mind when I build my tank stand

davocean
04/29/2014, 10:39 PM
Daveocean-
Love the idea of, and the look of your skins!
I'll have to keep that in mind when I build my tank stand

Thanks, it sure does make it nice when swapping sumps or adding ATO resevoir or any of those sort of things I've done recently, just pull it away and no worry of jacking up your cabinetry while working down below.
Besides, everyone I build for is in a hurry, this way I can whip out a frame, get tank running and cycling, and take my time building a quality cabinet.

davocean
04/29/2014, 10:44 PM
2 2x4's in an L shape are stronger, cheaper, and will last longer than 4x4's.

a 2x6 is a much better option for the header board, a 2x4 may work but they don't attach near as well due to the lack of shearing strength from the screws/nails, and lower bending capacity of the 2x4. If you skin with a good solid plywood 2x4's will work splendidly. 2x4's work great for the bottom pieces and front to back.

Also when you place your top header board place it crown up (should be as straight of board as possible but all have a slight curve) You don't want a U shape for that header board. A slight U shape upside down will hold the weight.

You can get nice straight lumber w/out a crown if you buy decent lumber and know what to look for or how to sight your lumber.
I certainly do not expect to have any crown in my aquarium cabinet stands.
Rough framing on a house may be a different story, and yes, then crown up always.