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Robert123
05/18/2014, 06:36 PM
I have a new setup and have been pulling my hair out trying to figure how to adjust powerheads so sand isnt being blown all over. This has caused me a huge amount of problems unnecessary massive sandstorms and potential loss of fish.

I am a newbie and had the tank just cycled. ihave 2 powerheads rated for 30-55 gallon butthe life of me I couldnt find a good setup. Sand always being blown around. Water cloudy.

Today I bought a controller and put the powerheads on the side of the tank close to the top pointing to middle back. Set the controller to only switch on 1 powerhead a time for a minute and then the other so I have even circulation coming from both sides and only 1 at a time.

This seems to have solved my issue. 6 hours later and tank is calm and water is starting to clear nicely. Even another fish and my shrimps has made an appearance.

So if you are having same powerhead issues I was having my solution may help.

Now hopefully my firefish, gobies, tang and cardinal will come out otherwise I have to just figure the shrimp ate them.

MinnFish
05/18/2014, 06:54 PM
Hope you find all alive. If so, take this as a close call. You have done quite abit in last than a month. Slow down and do some reading in the meantime. Good luck and happy reefkeeping.

Aquarist007
05/18/2014, 07:09 PM
I have a new setup and have been pulling my hair out trying to figure how to adjust powerheads so sand isnt being blown all over. This has caused me a huge amount of problems unnecessary massive sandstorms and potential loss of fish.

I am a newbie and had the tank just cycled. ihave 2 powerheads rated for 30-55 gallon butthe life of me I couldnt find a good setup. Sand always being blown around. Water cloudy.

Today I bought a controller and put the powerheads on the side of the tank close to the top pointing to middle back. Set the controller to only switch on 1 pow edterheadnd poin a time for a minute and then the other so I have even circulation coming from both sides and only 1 at a time.

This seems to have solved my issue. 6 hours later and tank is calm and water is starting to clear nicely. Even another fish and my shrimps has made an appearance.

So if you are having same powerhead issues I was having my solution may help.

Now hopefully my firefish, gobies, tang and cardinal will come out otherwise I have to just figure the shrimp ate them.

You could have mounted the power heads low in the tank and pointed them towards the surface. This helps get debris off the substrate and to the top of the tank where it can be removed

Robert123
05/18/2014, 07:30 PM
Thanks for the input.

Minnfish.. yes I have done quite a bit in the last month. Some good and some not so good. The only major mess up I think was my LFS telling me the cycle was complete based on the water test and to me it seemed too soon and I should have told him I wanted to wait another week.

Also listening and putting in 9 fish no matter how small in a new tank.

My mess up ( bad ) was dropping the powerhead and causing a sandstorm of epic proportions only an hour after acclimating the fish and inverts.

As of now the clowns seen to be doing well. The shrimp and crabs are still alive as is the Royal Gramma.

Now just to sit back and IMO let the cycle complete even though I was told it was.

Thanks for the input.

MinnFish
05/18/2014, 07:51 PM
What happen to the tang? Survived or not?

Robert123
05/18/2014, 08:15 PM
nope i dont think so.

Goby floated by a while ago so at least there is one mia I can account for.

Im just taking it that the rest never survived.

I will wait another week and then take water back to lfs and check it out and if ok will add 1 or 2 cheap fish until im sure that tank has properly cycled.

Nina51
05/18/2014, 09:01 PM
you would be better off getting your own test kids and not depending on your lfs. they are in the business of selling you fish and may mislead you as far as your cycle.

also, please don't put any more fish in until you know for sure your tank is cycled. cheap fish suffer from ammonia and fried gills just like expensive fish do. patience is the key and while you wait, pick up some good test kits so you can monitor your progress w/o depending on somebody else.

MinnFish
05/18/2014, 09:43 PM
you would be better off getting your own test kids and not depending on your lfs. they are in the business of selling you fish and may mislead you as far as your cycle.

also, please don't put any more fish in until you know for sure your tank is cycled. cheap fish suffer from ammonia and fried gills just like expensive fish do. patience is the key and while you wait, pick up some good test kits so you can monitor your progress w/o depending on somebody else.

I totally agree to an extent. Not all LFS are irresponsible, my LFS will flat out say NO. To something they feel is not in the best interest of livestock or you. They are hobbyist like us. But, too many are in it for the money. But, please buy yourself a test kit. I don't know if they charge you for test. But, it's better to have your own and learn how to test. You never know, it might come in handy at 12 midnight to save a life or the whole tank. Good luck.

cidbozek
05/19/2014, 04:54 AM
9 fish added all at once? If so I think that alone would cause your tank to go bad even if the cycle was finished. What size tank are we talking about here and how much live and or dry rock? Dead fish in the tank are making matters even worse, you should try to locate all fish so you know what your looking for to remove them

Robert123
05/19/2014, 08:07 AM
Yes cidbozek. 9 small ones all at once. It is 60 gallon ( 48 * 17 * 17 )Terrible advice from someone I thought would look out for me and the fish. Im not blaming as I made the mistake of not saying NO based on everything I researched. The responsibility is one me as the stores are out to make money.
Anyway thats the way ones loses business.
I went to another 2 other LFS and told them. Took water into both to check for amonia spikes. Water is still ok but if the others dont get removed im expecting spikes.
( Today I will go to petco and by API master test kit and do tests myself. I do have test kit for KH, CA, MG and all thise are good but not too important right now.

From reviews and on the forum API is about the best to test for Nitrates, nirites and amonia.)
Both LFS advised me to leave the tank be for a week. Let crabs and shrimp take care of business and let the tank cycle through again. Well leave it till averything is back to normal. Once everything is back to normal I will add 1 more fish, let it be for another week or 2 then add another till I get to about 6 max.
Unfortunately I have searched and barr ripping the tank apart the others are nowhere to be seen.

Anyway your thoughts or anyone elses on what my plan is from here is always appraciated.

Thanks

Xavibear
05/19/2014, 08:13 AM
API tests are not the best. Get yourself better tests.

rale2001
05/19/2014, 08:33 AM
If you can afford more get better ones but if not API will work for the time being. its definitely better to have something they are not perfect but you still get a decent idea of what your water is doing.

Robert123
05/19/2014, 10:48 AM
Can anyone please recommend the most accurate tests to do Amonia, Nitrate, Nitrite and ph

I want to get as accurate as possible and maintain my own reading. Just learnt important lesson and don't want to make same mistakes

I have the red sea kit for kh, ca,mg

I also have a refractometer

m0nkie
05/19/2014, 12:14 PM
sulfite test kit for ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, PH

Hannah Checker for Phosphate

MinnFish
05/19/2014, 03:45 PM
I have had good results with Red Sea kits. Just keep in mind no test kit is totally accurate. You would have to get lab grade kit to be more accurate, which are quite expensive.

Robert123
05/19/2014, 09:21 PM
Got the API master kit and came home and did some tests.

PH = 8.0
Amonia = 0.00 - 0.25 end of the yellow towards the greenish hue. Figure that still has a way to go but also could be margin of error both ways
Nitrate = 0.00
Nitrate = 10ppm - Not sure if this is good or bad??

The following tested with Red Sea Kit.

KH = 3.00
CA = 600 - on high side. Is this bad?
MG = 1600 also on high side ?

Salinity = 0.018 - I added about a gallon of saltwater. It has been very hot in so cal so with all evaporation I have added a lot of ro water so figured the low salinity was because of that.

Any input for a newbie.

Thanks

ca1ore
05/19/2014, 10:17 PM
You probably realize this now, but adding 9 fish to a newly cycled tank will almost certainly overwhelm the bio-filter; and you will see ammonia again. Slower is better - I'd not even add that many fish to my established 265.

Sand blowing around is generally a result of using the very fine 'oolitic' stuff that, personally, I'd never recommend. A somewhat coarser sand suffices for almost all your animal needs, and doesn't blow around. Next time!

In terms of your measurements, ammonia and nitrite should read zero and a measure of 10 for nitrate is OK for a just completed/completing cycle. Salinity is low and should ideally be in the 1.025 range. KH is way low if it is the API kit; really should be in the 7-10 dKH range; Ca is high, but that should work its way down.

cidbozek
05/20/2014, 04:55 AM
I suggest reading ALL the stickys at the top of each section

coverdog
05/20/2014, 10:13 AM
I find my sand settles after the tank has run for awhile and no longer blows around easily.