$40 S.Gigantea

[clorox]

Finally found one today! I wasn't expecting it at all. As a matter of fact I went to check an LFS I heard about but never been there before. I was riding my motorcycle as I wasn't even remotely thinking about buying anything.....good thing I had my messenger bag with me :thumbsup:

As I was browsing the many tanks, I spotted what looked like a bleached Sebae, but as I got closer I realized it was a Gigantea....sharing the tank with a zebra mantis shrimp!!:eek1:
The best part it cost me only $40.
It's about 4 to 6" wide, and VERY VERY bleached, basically no zooxanthellae left, but otherwise looks in relatively good shape. This will be a long ride attempting to get it back to optimal form.
Has anyone had a bleached white Gigantea regain it's original color?

I drip acclimated it for about 2 hours, the mouth is very tight, so I place it in the DT, but on a small flat rock I can remove at any moment in case I need to transfer it to the HT.
My Perculas already plunged into it a few times, taking a break from their beloved Magnifica.

This is my first Gigantea, so I will post regular status updates.

Just a few quick pics from the crappyphone.
Acclimating upside down.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/531D8BF4-D231-4E5F-A379-32380D520FD9_zps4iovmrcx.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/531D8BF4-D231-4E5F-A379-32380D520FD9_zps4iovmrcx.jpg.html)


First 5 minutes in the tank.....looking so bleached!

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/54EFB454-D8A3-402C-91D0-761F3F78EB91_zpssw5bmpnj.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/54EFB454-D8A3-402C-91D0-761F3F78EB91_zpssw5bmpnj.jpg.html)


Curious visitors....

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/2A33BAF6-1620-4111-99EA-437F928AEDBB_zpsdjll50jz.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/2A33BAF6-1620-4111-99EA-437F928AEDBB_zpsdjll50jz.jpg.html)


The mouth seems pretty tight.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/352577B6-61EA-466E-9CDF-5731AC02E72F_zpsoi6taxc3.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/352577B6-61EA-466E-9CDF-5731AC02E72F_zpsoi6taxc3.jpg.html)

[cyclenut]

Wow congrats! Waiting to see what color it turns out to be. Best of luck and keep us posted with pics.

[Bent]

I wouldn't have the balls to try this. Hope it works out better for you than my previous escapades.

[sc50964]

What did the store sell it as?

[clorox]

I wouldn't have the balls to try this. Hope it works out better for you than my previous escapades.

Which part? Riding a motorcycle with a Gigantea in a messenger bag? :lmao:
Jokes aside, I am fairly lucky in that I work from home, so I monitor my tank every 5 minutes. But, yeah, I am prepared for the worse, hopefully this will be a happy ending rescue.:rolleyes:

[clorox]

Wow congrats! Waiting to see what color it turns out to be. Best of luck and keep us posted with pics.

Thanks!

What did the store sell it as?

For 99% of LFS stores they are just carpets. No distinction. He said they've had it for a long time, not surprised it's so beached since it was under just really lousy lighting and little flow.

[Bent]

Which part? Riding a motorcycle with a Gigantea in a messenger bag? :lmao:
Jokes aside, I am fairly lucky in that I work from home, so I monitor my tank every 5 minutes. But, yeah, I am prepared for the worse, hopefully this will be a happy ending rescue.:rolleyes:

Lol.
No, the trying to bring a nem back from the brink.

[M.r.ducks]

No quarantine?
I'm new to anemones but after everything I've read aren't most people die hard set on qt?

[OrionN]

QT only if you add it to a system with other host anemones

[OrionN]

Other than bleached, I think it looks OK. If you feed it, it will do better

[clorox]

QT only if you add it to a system with other host anemones

Other than bleached, I think it looks OK. If you feed it, it will do better

Well, now with the Gigantea, I have 4 species in my DT. Entacmaea Quadricolor, Heteractis Magnifica, Stichodactyla Haddoni and the poor bleached new arrival. I will try to feed it a little tomorrow. I just don't want to rush.
I noticed that after about 4 hours since it's been in the tank the tentacles are getting a little longer. You are correct, it looks alright, it's just very very bleached and probably weak.

Here's a photo I just took a minute ago.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/6AC4D5E9-90E6-45F0-85F2-493F57241817_zpsuucycqgt.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/6AC4D5E9-90E6-45F0-85F2-493F57241817_zpsuucycqgt.jpg.html)

[Reefahholic]

I'm just waiting to stumble on one somewhere. Lucky find and congrats. Definetly a Gigantea. I wonder what color he'll be?

Minh, he looks good to me, do you know why they bleach. Was it from previous stress or could it be albinism? :-)

[clorox]

I'm just waiting to stumble on one somewhere. Lucky find and congrats. Definetly a Gigantea. I wonder what color he'll be?

Minh, he looks good to me, do you know why they bleach. Was it from previous stress or could it be albinism? :-)

It's so bleached that right now with deep blue lighting from my radion it resembles one of those glow in the dark Halloween ornaments:D

Colorwise it will be like opening a Cracker Jack bag, you won't know until you look inside ;p Hopefully it will be alive in a few months so I can report on it's progress.

[Reefahholic]

It's so bleached that right now with deep blue lighting from my radion it resembles one of those glow in the dark Halloween ornaments:D

Colorwise it will be like opening a Cracker Jack bag, you won't know until you look inside ;p Hopefully it will be alive in a few months so I can report on it's progress.

Keep us updated and good luck!

[clorox]

This morning, when I got up, I saw it tilting sideways, most likely because the foot stickiness is weak and the flow too strong. I decreased the flow on that side of the tank and repositioned the rock it is resting on to a more sheltered spot.

It appears to like it better this way. I noticed that its tentacles are barely sticky.
I was wondering if anyone has Ecotech radion pro gen 3 and what are their settings are with healthy Giganteas? I decreased the intensity on mine by 30%. Until I introduced it yesterday I had intensity peak at 90% during midday.

I will try to feed it something small today, maybe mysis or a piece of shrimp.


http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/830BF2AB-26DD-48F6-9B9C-2713A4F0594A_zpsguqfgm3r.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/830BF2AB-26DD-48F6-9B9C-2713A4F0594A_zpsguqfgm3r.jpg.html)

The mouth is puckered, but tight.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/0979B3E9-5591-4A11-B503-1F3BCE7C0B9B_zpsup3sksoq.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/0979B3E9-5591-4A11-B503-1F3BCE7C0B9B_zpsup3sksoq.jpg.html)


http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/A5A1E65B-7B75-414A-853E-1DA9962BE701_zps65z7kqah.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/A5A1E65B-7B75-414A-853E-1DA9962BE701_zps65z7kqah.jpg.html)

[bobbravo2]

Looking good! I'd be very careful about intensity on the Radion. Have you set it to acclimate mode? I'd say (and this is just a gut feeling / JMHO / YMMV) - 50% max intensity in the day. I'd be careful of the UV channel, as he may not be used to seeing any. Max intensity also depends on the depth of the tank / placement in the middle vs. sides.

[clorox]

Looking good! I'd be very careful about intensity on the Radion. Have you set it to acclimate mode? I'd say (and this is just a gut feeling / JMHO / YMMV) - 50% max intensity in the day. I'd be careful of the UV channel, as he may not be used to seeing any. Max intensity also depends on the depth of the tank / placement in the middle vs. sides.

I'm using an Apex to control the radion, so acclimation mode is not part of the settings. I decreased peak intensity from 90% @18k down to 60% @14k. He is placed on the outer edge of the tank. The tank is 24" deep.
I'll reduce it a bit further.

[clorox]

I reduced peak values to 50% and decreased UV output between 20 and 5%.

[SwampyBill]

I'd wait at least a week before trying to feed it. Let it acclimate some more. Your lighting is more than adequate to sustain it.

[hypnoj]

Good luck! Following.

[clorox]

Still doing relatively well after 3 days.
The mouth is still tight, however the column is not inflated as it should be. The oral disc seems ok. The clowns do a good job keeping it free from debris.

I added a section of eggcrate to the top of the tank on the side of the Gigantea to filter light and help it acclimate at much lower intensity so that I can keep happy the Magnifica perched on the rock at the center of the tank.

I was amazed yesterday after I decreased the overall light intensity by 40%, the Magnifica was showing signs of 'unhappiness' after a couple of hours by opening slightly her mouth and slightly deflating her tentacles. After I changed back the intensity to where it was, it began perking up again.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/0D60832B-F2A6-420C-A9F2-2B96E2B3AFC2_zpsz55dw0rd.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/0D60832B-F2A6-420C-A9F2-2B96E2B3AFC2_zpsz55dw0rd.jpg.html)


http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/9F12A95F-993A-4318-ADEC-DE7DDDCC535A_zpskgcdfo7v.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/9F12A95F-993A-4318-ADEC-DE7DDDCC535A_zpskgcdfo7v.jpg.html)

[sc50964]

Hi Clorox, where did you buy the black eggcrate? It's much better looking than the white ones.

[clorox]

Hi Clorox, where did you buy the black eggcrate? It's much better looking than the white ones.

I got it from Vivid Aquariums a while back, when I needed one for my HT. It's the one they normally use for their frag shelves. However it is not something they regularly sell, but I am a good customer... ;)

You can also find them at pro photography stores.

[Jamie1210]

looking good! sounds like it hasnt deflated yet, which is promising ... hopefully, its just one of those things where it needs some good lighting and food to bring back the color ... hmm... I'm thinking it may end up looking greenish/tannish

[clorox]

I think you're right.....

Here's an update after 10 days. It moved from the flat rock on the sand and found a crevice to plant it's foot on a vertical rock. Looks like it's happy with that arrangement.
It has been eating mysis and small pieces of raw shrimp and is very sticky. I'd say it grew 20% already and is showing some color recovery with hints of green/yellow, too early to say what color it will be in a few months, but I think I can rule out blue or purple.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/96635E75-5C28-450D-B733-0057EF115817_zpsjm8aqja6.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/96635E75-5C28-450D-B733-0057EF115817_zpsjm8aqja6.jpg.html)

[accordsirh22]

very nice, congrats

[Reefahholic]

Yeah he's looking good. I bet he's a green! Can't wait to see in a month or two.

[Haggis]

Any update on this? Would love to see some current pics!

[clorox]

Any update on this? Would love to see some current pics!

Close to 20 days since I got it, taken just a few minutes ago as soon as the lights started to turn on.
It's doing well and coloring up little by little. So far it's getting patches of pale green/yellow.
If all goes well, it's going to take several months before it regains completely it's natural color. It was completely bleached white when I got it.



http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/FEB29ADD-314A-48EB-B8D9-A24E871D6F67_zps34wbnsaf.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/FEB29ADD-314A-48EB-B8D9-A24E871D6F67_zps34wbnsaf.jpg.html)


Up skirt pic ;)

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/FC7D780D-30A3-4E42-AEB0-9467AD8224E2_zpstwvdt1gk.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/FC7D780D-30A3-4E42-AEB0-9467AD8224E2_zpstwvdt1gk.jpg.html)

[OrionN]

looking great. I think you are out of the wood on this one. He will be just fine. Hope he will color up for you.

[mbingha]

Looking good, congrats! I love reading these rescue threads.

[clorox]

Thanks guys, appreciate the comments and encouragement. Apart from the severe discoloration, it seems to be doing well.

[Reefahholic]

Great looking animal. It took one of my bleached mags over 2 months to start getting some color back. Good luck, yours is a lot more hairy than my two.

[clorox]

Thanks Jared.

Now this is something I wasn't expecting!
Upon closer inspection, it appears it has 2 mouths, I can't be 100% sure, but the protrusion next to the main mouth really looks like a small mouth forming about 1/4 inch away. I noticed this about 1 week ago, but I thought it was just a protrusion of the main mouth, but now it grew bigger.
I'll try to take a better picture with a real camera.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/67DBC744-C707-4B3F-93BC-B56018DF2B19_zpsxal9c7pl.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/67DBC744-C707-4B3F-93BC-B56018DF2B19_zpsxal9c7pl.jpg.html)

[mbingha]

I'm not well versed in anemones, is it common for a gig to split?

[clorox]

I'm not well versed in anemones, is it common for a gig to split?

I think it is very rare, but possible.

[Rippinfrags]

S. Gigantea do not split.

[OrionN]

S. Gigantea do not split.
1+++++
They do not split naturally

[clorox]

1+++++
They do not split naturally

That's what I thought too...

Until I read this old thread
http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=416941

Unfortunately the pictures are gone.

*** Update - Well, I just got home and double checked that thread on my computer. It wasn't an S. Gigantea after all, but apparently an S. Helianthus.

I am still very puzzled about what appears to be a second mouth.

[ReefRehab]

Congrats. It looks like you are well on your way! It took about 2 months before I got color back the last time I rescued one, but it started out a lot smaller. Just don't name it... too much attachment when playing doctor ;)

[clorox]

Should I be concerned?!

It was fine most of the day, then it started retracting a little during mid afternoon, then once the lights starting going out it progressively began balling up.
Had to use the flash in the last one because the deep blue setting kicked in.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/2160B2F0-4F5D-4BFF-B0AA-601EBF0021DF_zpsqkvluwil.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/2160B2F0-4F5D-4BFF-B0AA-601EBF0021DF_zpsqkvluwil.jpg.html)


http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/D07CD4DE-3CD0-4605-8A63-1764819FD465_zpsy7qkto3x.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/D07CD4DE-3CD0-4605-8A63-1764819FD465_zpsy7qkto3x.jpg.html)


http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/21679CD1-F1BA-406A-8765-00F9FFE01343_zpswuzpkpu2.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/21679CD1-F1BA-406A-8765-00F9FFE01343_zpswuzpkpu2.jpg.html)

[OrionN]

Sometime my Gigantea does this and back to normal the next day. One occurrent for 5 gig the last 4 months

[clorox]

Sometime my Gigantea does this and back to normal the next day. One occurrent for 5 gig the last 4 months

Thank you for the reassurance. As a matter of fact it started opening up again.
In your experience, do you think it is some sort of sign of stress, repositioning of the foot and column, or normal behavior?

[Reefahholic]

I think it's normal for some, but I would keep a close eye on him. Mine did that and then took a bad turn.

I will say this, he never re-inflated after he deflated. He progressively got worse. So if yours inflates in the morning, I wouldn't worry too much.

Good luck! Would be awesome if you had the first Gig to split in captivity. Never know...

[OrionN]

Jared,

Some of the collectors cut some of their Gigantea. We can see evidence of the cut. Some survive the cut but most do not. They may last a few month, some even make it to over 1 year.
D-Nak had one that live well over 1 year then just up and died. He did necropsy and concluded that that the organs just did not regenerate.

clorox,
I am not sure why. One of my Petco Gigantea right next to the Blue Haddoni contracted a few weeks ago. They have been touching each other for months. He is smaller than the Blue Haddoni. One day he contracted down to where I cannot see him at all. I thought that he moved. Lifting up the skirt of the Blue, I see that he is still right there. Anyway, he was back to normal the next day but I decided to move him a little so he no longer in contact with the blue right now. I am sure as both of them grow, they will be in contact again. I am feeding them but just one a week or two.

[OrionN]

That's what I thought too...

Until I read this old thread
http://archive.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=416941

Unfortunately the pictures are gone.

*** Update - Well, I just got home and double checked that thread on my computer. It wasn't an S. Gigantea after all, but apparently an S. Helianthus.

I am still very puzzled about what appears to be a second mouth.

The picture are gone but some very experienced reefer included Rod Buehler (keep two Gigantea for 20+ years at this time and well over 10 years at the time of the thread) did not think that it is a Gigantea. It seem that most of them thinks it is a S. helianthus. Looking at a few picture that is available, I have to agree that it was a S. helianthus, the Atlantic Carpet. The OP later posted that it was originally from Cuba which, IMO, confirm the ID

[Reefahholic]

Jared,

Some of the collectors cut some of their Gigantea. We can see evidence of the cut. Some survive the cut but most do not. They may last a few month, some even make it to over 1 year.
D-Nak had one that live well over 1 year then just up and died. He did necropsy and concluded that that the organs just did not regenerate.

clorox,
I am not sure why. One of my Petco Gigantea right next to the Blue Haddoni contracted a few weeks ago. They have been touching each other for months. He is smaller than the Blue Haddoni. One day he contracted down to where I cannot see him at all. I thought that he moved. Lifting up the skirt of the Blue, I see that he is still right there. Anyway, he was back to normal the next day but I decided to move him a little so he no longer in contact with the blue right now. I am sure as both of them grow, they will be in contact again. I am feeding them but just one a week or two.

You would think that after surviving 1 year they would definetly be fine. He did a necropsy? How and where.. and was it a medical professional that studied S. Gigantea? That's awesome!

[clorox]

I think it's normal for some, but I would keep a close eye on him. Mine did that and then took a bad turn.

I will say this, he never re-inflated after he deflated. He progressively got worse. So if yours inflates in the morning, I wouldn't worry too much.

Good luck! Would be awesome if you had the first Gig to split in captivity. Never know...

Now I am getting quite concerned, :sad2:.
This morning he was inflated, I'd say at 60% of what it normally is, then it started closing up again. Now it is fully closed up into the crevice where it had it's foot planted.

As much as I am tempted to try and pry it out and put it in the HT, I won't disturb it and see what it will do in the next 24 hours.


http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/B607B377-9B38-445C-8791-F8A69E21B4CE_zpspnsk4gl7.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/B607B377-9B38-445C-8791-F8A69E21B4CE_zpspnsk4gl7.jpg.html)

[Reefahholic]

Treat him.

[taylor t]

Treat him.

x2

[clorox]

I've been observing it for several hours today...it's back inflated and the mouth is tight. It actually never had the mouth gaping since I got it, which is why I have been reluctant to treat it. I'll see how it behaves in the morning.
The HT has been ready since yesterday on standby.

I took a quick photo just now.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/BB021AE9-AA32-4D74-AF14-9CF59466C042_zpsozmdqbzf.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/BB021AE9-AA32-4D74-AF14-9CF59466C042_zpsozmdqbzf.jpg.html)

[OrionN]

Looking good but prety well bleached in that picture. If you have or know someone with a healthy Gigantea, you may want to get a few tentacles of the healthy Gigantea and put these tentacles on food and feed it to your bleached anemone. Do a zooxanthalae transplant.

[taylor t]

Looking good but prety well bleached in that picture. If you have or know someone with a healthy Gigantea, you may want to get a few tentacles of the healthy Gigantea and put these tentacles on food and feed it to your bleached anemone. Do a zooxanthalae transplant.

I forgot about this. Makes me wonder, if you take some blue or purple tents, can you make a brown turn blue or purple, or a green turn blue, or give green tents to a blue? Is this the next step? Change the color of my gigs? Interesting thought. One of my blues I've had over a year, now has a couple tents that glow with my actinic LED's. I wondered if it picked up some green zoo from my green gig, being together over a year now. I don't remember seeing it glow this way a year ago. My green is still a glowing green though, no blue or purple showing up in it. I haven't tried feeding them each other's tents though... yet....

[Reefahholic]

He's looking very good bro! Maybe he was just acting crazy. Anyway, I think ur on the right track.


I'm gonna feed my mag's some pink, purple, and blue tentacles.

Ha...Ha. Would be so amazing if that would really work!!

Might try it with my buddy's bleached Mag.

Seems like the original Zoo will eventually override any new color it's received via transplant.

[clorox]

I forgot about this. Makes me wonder, if you take some blue or purple tents, can you make a brown turn blue or purple, or a green turn blue, or give green tents to a blue? Is this the next step? Change the color of my gigs? Interesting thought. One of my blues I've had over a year, now has a couple tents that glow with my actinic LED's. I wondered if it picked up some green zoo from my green gig, being together over a year now. I don't remember seeing it glow this way a year ago. My green is still a glowing green though, no blue or purple showing up in it. I haven't tried feeding them each other's tents though... yet....


This is very interesting and worth experimenting with.
I am trying to find an other gigantea, possibly blue, but they are rare here in SoCal, at least that is what LFS in the LA area tell me. At least the ones that know what I am talking about (maybe 10%), for the majority, carpets are all the same ;) My only hope is the random find, wait for DD to offer one, or bite the bullet and buy from ibluewater $$$.

Anyway, I thought about posting an update.

This morning, it was doing ok-ish, but I could tell it wasn't right.
So I tried to pry it off with a baby plastic spoon and it worked. Thankfully the foot wasn't too sticky.
As of 10am PST it's now in the HT, I just administered a full strength dose of Septra.

What I noticed is that Septra doesn't dissolve as well as Cipro, leaving a lot of undissolved particulates on the bottom of the tank.

I'll post an update in a few hours.



This morning around 7am. The mouth was slightly open.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/B36F85C6-01C3-4B92-9DAF-D62D5340071A_zpsmrw3ypca.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/B36F85C6-01C3-4B92-9DAF-D62D5340071A_zpsmrw3ypca.jpg.html)

In the HT inside a ceramic bowl at 10am PST.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/8D34348B-2E06-46D1-B90E-A33E670DF680_zpszhy1dv2a.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/8D34348B-2E06-46D1-B90E-A33E670DF680_zpszhy1dv2a.jpg.html)


After 5 minutes in HT, trying to prop itself up. A good sign.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/B4406058-1CCF-48C9-9B40-27D43CEA3EEE_zpsv8owurjm.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/B4406058-1CCF-48C9-9B40-27D43CEA3EEE_zpsv8owurjm.jpg.html)


Septra

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/83CF4805-3694-42AC-A195-8E7BD1B21928_zpsdjmnpdsd.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/83CF4805-3694-42AC-A195-8E7BD1B21928_zpsdjmnpdsd.jpg.html)


Undissolved Septra

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/B2AC4AF2-36BD-4F1C-80C2-D84C94D23C1C_zpspvjs4xpe.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/B2AC4AF2-36BD-4F1C-80C2-D84C94D23C1C_zpspvjs4xpe.jpg.html)

[clorox]

At 1:00pm, 3 hours after initial treatment, it already looks pretty good.

I am just wondering since I don't think it was infected, should I treat it for the full antibiotic 5 day course?


http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/039B2BF0-E38D-4162-9072-A3AB6B383949_zps5l5mz6od.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/039B2BF0-E38D-4162-9072-A3AB6B383949_zps5l5mz6od.jpg.html)


S.Gigantea Soufflè :D

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/FC8E5ECD-62E8-4D29-980D-5510807B7BE1_zps8qplajff.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/FC8E5ECD-62E8-4D29-980D-5510807B7BE1_zps8qplajff.jpg.html)


http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/5302CD47-71BC-42C7-A43B-E636C18DFD4E_zpsqdbjjc5l.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/5302CD47-71BC-42C7-A43B-E636C18DFD4E_zpsqdbjjc5l.jpg.html)

[taylor t]

That looks good. If it was mine, for sure, I would do the whole program. A hassle, yes, but I think it's worth it after it's over. All 7 of mine have been treated before being put together, and one got pulled and treated a second and third time as well.

[taylor t]

Nice HT. Just a thought... If you lose power, is that air pump above the water line? I've had them empty before when power is lost, if they're below the water line. I'd make sure the pump is above, maybe set it on a towel on a bucket or something like that. Just a thought. Best of luck, looks like it's in good hands!

[clorox]

That looks good. If it was mine, for sure, I would do the whole program. A hassle, yes, but I think it's worth it after it's over. All 7 of mine have been treated before being put together, and one got pulled and treated a second and third time as well.

For sure, I will let it go through the entire course. As a matter of fact, soon after I posted good progress at 1pm, it started deflating and opening the mouth soon after.....

I really don't want to lose it, so I'll do whatever it takes to bring it back.

[clorox]

Nice HT. Just a thought... If you lose power, is that air pump above the water line? I've had them empty before when power is lost, if they're below the water line. I'd make sure the pump is above, maybe set it on a towel on a bucket or something like that. Just a thought. Best of luck, looks like it's in good hands!

Thanks for the heads up. It's currently level with the tank, but I placed it in an elevated spot. Where I live power rarely goes out, only once in 10 years for 4 hours about 6 months ago. But as they say...better safe than sorry.

[ReefRehab]

1. I would go the full treatment... just like with people. Shortcuts on treatments aren't your friend. I have cut them back one day with no ill effects, but a reinfection of resistant bacteria is not a fun time. I have tried 3 times in the past on rescue anemones and the only success I had was broad spectrum treatment and then using my clowns as little nurses. They kept most everything in the tank for picking on it and were messy eaters. I have never tried dosing the zoos before, but I am curious about your findings if you attempt it. It took about 3 months on my one survivor rescue to regain color. From a transference component, I would be curious to see how much would be adopted into the tissue. Probably a good test in the HT so you can control the outlier Zoos. I would assume that it would take a noticeable dosage to get it to supersede the natural ones.

If only we had about 5 more, we could test a couple variations (injection, feeding, etc). Hmm... ~wanders off to find some bleached anemones~

2. You are fine running the pump below if you have an inline valve that prevents back siphoning. They cost about $1-2. I have used them since I had an airline flood 15 years ago. None since that time.

[clorox]

1. I would go the full treatment... just like with people. Shortcuts on treatments aren't your friend. I have cut them back one day with no ill effects, but a reinfection of resistant bacteria is not a fun time. I have tried 3 times in the past on rescue anemones and the only success I had was broad spectrum treatment and then using my clowns as little nurses. They kept most everything in the tank for picking on it and were messy eaters. I have never tried dosing the zoos before, but I am curious about your findings if you attempt it. It took about 3 months on my one survivor rescue to regain color. From a transference component, I would be curious to see how much would be adopted into the tissue. Probably a good test in the HT so you can control the outlier Zoos. I would assume that it would take a noticeable dosage to get it to supersede the natural ones.

If only we had about 5 more, we could test a couple variations (injection, feeding, etc). Hmm... ~wanders off to find some bleached anemones~

2. You are fine running the pump below if you have an inline valve that prevents back siphoning. They cost about $1-2. I have used them since I had an airline flood 15 years ago. None since that time.

No worries, I am going to do the full treatment, and yes I have an inline valve.

Thanks for sharing.

[clorox]

4pm PST, 6 hours post initial treatment.

Not looking so good :/

I turned off the white led lights and just left on the actinic.


http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/38DC2097-16B9-4622-B1A4-46D2E68E163F_zpsyv1iwinf.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/38DC2097-16B9-4622-B1A4-46D2E68E163F_zpsyv1iwinf.jpg.html)


http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/9F686D51-D432-4FD5-A895-E65621D1F0C5_zpsxiy0vpdv.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/9F686D51-D432-4FD5-A895-E65621D1F0C5_zpsxiy0vpdv.jpg.html)

[taylor t]

This is the biggest hurdle to get over. Goal is inflated 100% of the time, not 100% size, but inflated 100% of the time. It's hard to say what triggers the deflate. Million dollar question. IME, too much light is the biggest trigger of deflating, but other things can trigger it too. Good call to kill the white lights early.

After lights out, did it re-inflate? If so, (if it was mine) I would consider reduce intensity of light, maybe raise up a couple inches?. And another thought. When I had mine in the little containers, I was able to kick up the current, and it could pull in to find protection. When I water changed, I'd take a mj400 and blast the heck out of it, to blow the string snot around the foot away. Then suck up the junk off the bottom with water change. They can handle quite the breeze, as long as the foot has anchored well.

[clorox]

This is the biggest hurdle to get over. Goal is inflated 100% of the time, not 100% size, but inflated 100% of the time. It's hard to say what triggers the deflate. Million dollar question. IME, too much light is the biggest trigger of deflating, but other things can trigger it too. Good call to kill the white lights early.

After lights out, did it re-inflate? If so, (if it was mine) I would consider reduce intensity of light, maybe raise up a couple inches?. And another thought. When I had mine in the little containers, I was able to kick up the current, and it could pull in to find protection. When I water changed, I'd take a mj400 and blast the heck out of it, to blow the string snot around the foot away. Then suck up the junk off the bottom with water change. They can handle quite the breeze, as long as the foot has anchored well.


It inflated once I moved the lights about 3 inches above the tank rim. On the HT I have some cheap led, so the intensity isn't that great to begin with. However as you correctly pointed out when I just used the actinics it began perking up.
I have a mini koralia pointing at it and it seems to not mind it. It is attached to the bottom of the bowl. I just took these 2 photos now.

Tomorrow morning at 10 I'll do a 80-90% water change and dose 1/2 tablet. My HT is a 10 gallon. I feel that a whole one might be too much.


http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/0F22A9E1-5E1D-4B9F-8C4D-F00116835002_zpsuywkk8zv.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/0F22A9E1-5E1D-4B9F-8C4D-F00116835002_zpsuywkk8zv.jpg.html)


http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/F7F013D0-5321-4948-B231-03D8DF80ED57_zpsf8wvy5zy.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/F7F013D0-5321-4948-B231-03D8DF80ED57_zpsf8wvy5zy.jpg.html)

[stickleback]

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/38DC2097-16B9-4622-B1A4-46D2E68E163F_zpsyv1iwinf.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/38DC2097-16B9-4622-B1A4-46D2E68E163F_zpsyv1iwinf.jpg.html)


Do I count correctly, 3 off siphonoglyph???


:spin2:

[stickleback]

Also count 3 in the first picture of post 55! Different?

[clorox]

Also count 3 in the first picture of post 55! Different?

I'm not sure I fully understand the question you are making, however if you are referring to the odd number of siphonoglyphs, I think it might have to do with what I assumed was a developing second mouth. Look at post #34. It is definitely odd. I'll post an update after the first waterchange.

[clorox]

UPDATE: 9am - Day 2

Just did a 90% water change, mixing 2/3 NSW and 1/3 DT water.

Water in the tank wasn't cloudy at all and hardly any stringy waste, just a little gooey slime it expelled during yesterday.

The good news is that it stayed inflated since yesterday afternoon and still is.
The mouth is shut tight.

After a few hours I will siphon the undissolved Septra at the bottom of the tank, right now there is a bit of a snow globe effect.

I also added an MJ 1200 pump pointing at a corner to add extra flour as it seems not to mind the extra flow.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/D78D44E2-18D3-4056-BCCA-CC7767ED1F82_zpscnnleuac.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/D78D44E2-18D3-4056-BCCA-CC7767ED1F82_zpscnnleuac.jpg.html)


Here are a few details about my HT, in case others want to set one up, something that is highly encouraged if you decide to keep anemones of the Stichodactylidae and Heteractis family.

As part of the setup I normally use a mini Koralia wavemaker, it's tiny and produces a gentle flow, which is ideal when you're dealing with a sick specimen.

When the specimen is in good shape, I add an MJ 1200 pump to increase flow as needed.


http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/6C43B5D6-15DD-483F-9A49-3BB28EACA054_zps2nxcaz2d.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/6C43B5D6-15DD-483F-9A49-3BB28EACA054_zps2nxcaz2d.jpg.html)

My heater of choice is the Cobalt Aquatics Neo-Therm. It's the best out there IMO and it is ultra precise, something you want in an HT. I set it at 80F and do not have to worry about temperature fluctuations. My digital thermometer hovers around 80.2~80.4.


I also use an Aquaclear 20 hang on power filter to help keep water circulating. I removed the carbon and pellets and just use the sponge, to help remove detritus.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/DAD3355E-96F6-46FA-A1BC-6E5EE19B6558_zpsgandtcvn.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/DAD3355E-96F6-46FA-A1BC-6E5EE19B6558_zpsgandtcvn.jpg.html)


One last item I use are these cheap plastic clips. They have become an essential accessory, after a lot of trial and error using many different clip styles. THe nice thing is that there are no metal parts that will eventually rust, they have serrated teeth, and last but not least a semi round hoop that fits exactly 1/4" diameter airline tubing or RODI tubing, making them perfect for holding and routing waterlines in and out of the sump/tank/bucket.
Best of all they are around $5 at bedbath&beyond for about 12 :)

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/F2FC5DEE-29BF-4768-BBF0-DEA3A82F6648_zpskubgl6xe.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/F2FC5DEE-29BF-4768-BBF0-DEA3A82F6648_zpskubgl6xe.jpg.html)

[OrionN]

Don't suction of the undisolved medication. You can put the whole tablet in the high flow area (in the filter) and it will disolve completly. Remove those means less medication, not a full dose.

[clorox]

Don't suction of the undisolved medication. You can put the whole tablet in the high flow area (in the filter) and it will disolve completly. Remove those means less medication, not a full dose.

Got it, thanks Minh. Since I introduced the MJ 1200 pump, the tablet dissolved completely. With the koralia flow was too weak.

Today I dosed 1/2 tablet, because I felt that 800/160mg might be too strong in a 10g tank. What do you think?

[OrionN]

I dose one tablet for 10 gal of water. My anemone tolerate that concentration well without problem

[Reefahholic]

Got it, thanks Minh. Since I introduced the MJ 1200 pump, the tablet dissolved completely. With the koralia flow was too weak.

Today I dosed 1/2 tablet, because I felt that 800/160mg might be too strong in a 10g tank. What do you think?


Now your using my methods. Lol :-)

Be careful with the MJ1200. I've sucked a few up even through the eggcrate. Cover your intake!!

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f236/JaredJHarms/Mobile%20Uploads/D8D311D5-7668-4C8F-B01B-DF9F220A3841.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/JaredJHarms/media/Mobile%20Uploads/D8D311D5-7668-4C8F-B01B-DF9F220A3841.jpg.html)

[ryannterror]

I forgot about this. Makes me wonder, if you take some blue or purple tents, can you make a brown turn blue or purple, or a green turn blue, or give green tents to a blue? Is this the next step? Change the color of my gigs? Interesting thought. One of my blues I've had over a year, now has a couple tents that glow with my actinic LED's. I wondered if it picked up some green zoo from my green gig, being together over a year now. I don't remember seeing it glow this way a year ago. My green is still a glowing green though, no blue or purple showing up in it. I haven't tried feeding them each other's tents though... yet....

Just to clear things up zooxanthellae from one gig or another has no effect on the gigs color as its all a shade of brown. The reason you want it from another gig is to get the correct zooxanthellae species.

I've had good luck with getting nems to color up with PhycoPure Zooxanthellae by Algagen. I use a small syringe and inject it into food I feed them. I have also chopped off tentacles in the past.

[Reefahholic]

Don't suction of the undisolved medication. You can put the whole tablet in the high flow area (in the filter) and it will disolve completly. Remove those means less medication, not a full dose.


I don't have that problem. :-)

I use both of these. I can dose 5 mags in about 3 minutes! ;-)

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f236/JaredJHarms/Mobile%20Uploads/4A74A6AD-D800-4ED8-8B98-571799F940A1.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/JaredJHarms/media/Mobile%20Uploads/4A74A6AD-D800-4ED8-8B98-571799F940A1.jpg.html)

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f236/JaredJHarms/Mobile%20Uploads/F47343CB-1E6C-4165-955C-8158D4F9F9CA.jpg (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/JaredJHarms/media/Mobile%20Uploads/F47343CB-1E6C-4165-955C-8158D4F9F9CA.jpg.html)

[stickleback]

I'm not sure I fully understand the question you are making, however if you are referring to the odd number of siphonoglyphs, I think it might have to do with what I assumed was a developing second mouth. Look at post #34. It is definitely odd. I'll post an update after the first waterchange.

Yes, yes thats really interesting. In that picture it appears to be a siphonoglyph poking through another open. Is that what you observed and if so does it still have that second opening?

[clorox]

Yes, yes thats really interesting. In that picture it appears to be a siphonoglyph poking through another open. Is that what you observed and if so does it still have that second opening?

Yes, the opening was still there in the morning, however it was hard to see clearly as it is not inflated like when it was doing well.

[clorox]

I haven't been able to check progress until now as I was out most of the day.
Before I left home it was still inflated, but now it is back to completely closed, but firmly attached to the bottom of the bowl.


I administered the rest of the 1/2 Septra pill.

I turned off the white led's and I'll just leave actinics on.



http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/360E74A5-1CF1-4DBA-8D71-BB5F4860B4D2_zpsidmtawlz.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/360E74A5-1CF1-4DBA-8D71-BB5F4860B4D2_zpsidmtawlz.jpg.html)

[Reefahholic]

Not looking good.

[clorox]

Not looking good.

After I turned off the white led's it started opening up, which makes me suspect, that it doesn't like the bright white light, so I have switched to actinics only since about 7pm.

Took these 2 just a few minutes ago (turned on temporarily the white led's just to take the photos).

I am starting to believe that perhaps the inflation deflation is light related, given how bleached it is, it might need a much longer light acclimation than I anticipated.
I am going to leave just actinics on all the time during the next few days and see if the cycle stops.
It definitely likes the increased flow.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/C3EBDAB1-307D-48F8-A21F-9AC56A3C57A3_zpsbfldbwec.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/C3EBDAB1-307D-48F8-A21F-9AC56A3C57A3_zpsbfldbwec.jpg.html)


And from above.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/78205BD5-4BDA-405A-9B0D-5F9C067B711B_zpsontczm1t.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/78205BD5-4BDA-405A-9B0D-5F9C067B711B_zpsontczm1t.jpg.html)

[Reefahholic]

I think you might be right. He is surely a weird lil Gig. I would leave the lights off completely for a couple days to prove that theory or rule it out. If it's not the lights, double your Septra dose. I've had mags go both ways when they're sick. Some dislike the light while others seem to thrive with it. Then I have some that seem to do well with short periods of light. Like 1-2 hours on, and then off for a couple hours.

[clorox]

9am - Day 3

I left actinics on all night. When I went to check the HT this morning it was still inflated with the mouth well closed.

I did a 90% water change + 1 full tablet of Septra. I also turned on the white led's to see how it reacts to stronger lighting. Seems to tolerate it better as for the last hour it did not contract at all.

I'll probably do 4 hours all lights on and 4 hours just actinics and observe how it reacts.

I'd rather prefer it to absorb as much light as possible so it can keep up the zooxanthellae replenishment.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/E5498F45-AD4D-4656-9134-1CEE7D3B9F47_zpscpcszxel.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/E5498F45-AD4D-4656-9134-1CEE7D3B9F47_zpscpcszxel.jpg.html)


From above

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/4174BE8D-54E0-4558-B7BF-A102029E8599_zpsc4ypxnmy.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/4174BE8D-54E0-4558-B7BF-A102029E8599_zpsc4ypxnmy.jpg.html)

[Reefahholic]

Looking real good now!

[bobbravo2]

Great progress!

[clorox]

Great progress!

Thanks Bob, always keeping my fingers crossed. With these guys sometimes it's like taking 2 steps forward and 1 backwards ;)

[clorox]

9am - Day 4

Knocking on wood, things seem to look better today. Did a 90% water change + 1 Septra.
It has been inflated for the last 36 hours. It had a slight contraction yesterday evening, but then opened again. I have been 'experimenting' different lighting intensities. It's interesting to observe how it reacts to light instantaneously, contracting or expanding in the span of 20-30 seconds, however it is hard to determine which light intensity it prefers. My cheap led fixture has only on-off, and independent white and blue spectrum.

I can confirm it has 2 mouths, a smaller one about 1/4 inch away from the main one. I will try to take a clearer picture tomorrow on my next water change.

Hopefully it will stay inflated from now on. One more day treatment to go, then a few more days observation and if all goes well, back to the DT.


http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/32552B94-AD33-492A-BE0B-EEE546183C1B_zpsenfwd6l8.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/32552B94-AD33-492A-BE0B-EEE546183C1B_zpsenfwd6l8.jpg.html)


Shot from above right after I dissolved 1 tablet of Septra

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/6BCADB74-7E66-49E9-B71E-63CFB8C4ACFD_zpsxvxjpxvw.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/6BCADB74-7E66-49E9-B71E-63CFB8C4ACFD_zpsxvxjpxvw.jpg.html)

[seymour47]

How mobile is your light on the tank? Perhaps you could experiment with different lighting distances as a way to play with intensity, since you can only go on and off?

[taylor t]

IMO, this gig has a good chance, not because of the gig, because of the one taking care of it, willing to adjust the light to the response. :)

I've found, best reactions, push the light limit, find point of contraction, back off a bit. Use than intensity for a few days. Let it adjust. Then try ramping up again. Small increments. Too much too fast, will lose the race. If it was mine, I would not feed it for a while, but then again, I'm in the minority thinking this way. JME.

[clorox]

How mobile is your light on the tank? Perhaps you could experiment with different lighting distances as a way to play with intensity, since you can only go on and off?

It's not really flexible, it's just your typical cheap led slab style fixture. But I have found creative ways to dim intensity fairly well. I have been using colored Gels that I use for my photography studio lighting. I can attenuate intensity by 10% increments.


http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/F326DBC1-9044-49FE-8A83-13072963AF25_zpstzakhnk8.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/F326DBC1-9044-49FE-8A83-13072963AF25_zpstzakhnk8.jpg.html)


IMO, this gig has a good chance, not because of the gig, because of the one taking care of it, willing to adjust the light to the response. :)

I've found, best reactions, push the light limit, find point of contraction, back off a bit. Use than intensity for a few days. Let it adjust. Then try ramping up again. Small increments. Too much too fast, will lose the race. If it was mine, I would not feed it for a while, but then again, I'm in the minority thinking this way. JME.


Thanks Taylor, I really want to save this little gig, it became a personal challenge :)

Right now it is well inflated and responding positively to light. I lowered the light fixture and removed the filters. So far so good.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/E261FC1E-6CB6-46CD-8957-0CAFA7DAB967_zpsv4hb2mgp.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/E261FC1E-6CB6-46CD-8957-0CAFA7DAB967_zpsv4hb2mgp.jpg.html)

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/1017529F-8F41-41F2-A2E8-88B11663A1FF_zps8aonrlzd.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/1017529F-8F41-41F2-A2E8-88B11663A1FF_zps8aonrlzd.jpg.html)

Once I finish the 5 day Septra course, in your experience with your gigs how many extra days you recommend I should keep it under observation in the HT?

[bobbravo2]

Thanks Bob, always keeping my fingers crossed. With these guys sometimes it's like taking 2 steps forward and 1 backwards ;)

Yeah I know that feeling! Been there before myself. I've never been able to save one myself, so that's why I'm reading up before I bring another 'nem in to my care.

As for time before bringing it back from HT to DT? My gut says give it 3 days, just for observation, and also doing WC's so you don't contaminate DT with septra from HT. I'm sure others have more experience to share on this point :strange:

[taylor t]

How many days, is up to you and what you feel the gig can handle. I've moved mine the next day, and left them for 3 weeks or longer. If your display is in good water quality condition, I would think about moving him sooner than later. May be a good idea to change the water one last time after treatment, and watch how it responds for a couple days first. Don't rush anything, as long as it's looking good, and always inflated. Your clean TT looks perfect. Keep us posted.

[taylor t]

One more thing. I got the brown zoo going in it's tissue, and cranked up my LED lights BEFORE moving to the DT, so there was minimal light adjustment. My DT doesn't have dimmable LED's, but my TT does. Not sure if this would be an issue for you if you move it.

[Chrisq0904]

I treated my gig with cipro for about a week. After treatment I waited 3 days then moved it to the DT and it has been doing just fine since then. I'm not sure how long you need to wait with septra but just letting you know how I went about it.

[clorox]

9am - Day 5


So, it's been inflated for the last 3 days, and it didn't ball up again. I take it as a positive sign.

Just did again 90% water change + one last tablet of Septra.
Tomorrow I'll just do daily water changes for the next 3 to 4 days and keep a watchful eye for any signs.
I'll also increase lighting intensity gradually, by adding a dimmable led light along the other fixture, so it can light acclimate to my radion in my DT.

After tomorrow I'll try to feed it some mysis and observe.


It deflated slightly right after I was filling the tank with new water and dissolved the tablet of Septra, but that's understandable, as I was moving things around.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/75501500-72E7-4905-8D14-565ECFE25010_zpsdnkgzcom.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/75501500-72E7-4905-8D14-565ECFE25010_zpsdnkgzcom.jpg.html)

[Reefahholic]

how many days, is up to you and what you feel the gig can handle. I've moved mine the next day, and left them for 3 weeks or longer. If your display is in good water quality condition, i would think about moving him sooner than later. may be a good idea to change the water one last time after treatment, and watch how it responds for a couple days first. don't rush anything, as long as it's looking good, and always inflated. Your clean tt looks perfect. Keep us posted.

x2

[Reefahholic]

I treated my gig with cipro for about a week. After treatment I waited 3 days then moved it to the DT and it has been doing just fine since then. I'm not sure how long you need to wait with septra but just letting you know how I went about it.

I think it's a good idea to treat the NEM for 5-9 days, and observe in non-treated DT water for 2-3 days or longer to see how it reacts. Especially if other Nems in the tank. Use DT water so that the animal can get acclimated to the tank and this also allows you to see if he's unhappy with your DT, or reacts to somebody else in the tank.

[clorox]

Update....

After 5 days with Septra plus 3 observing, it went back to the DT.
Looks really good and clowns are happy to have it back. Now the next task will be to make it color up. Under 7k lighting it definitely looks like green is the dominant color.

It still has ways to go before I can tell what color it will end up being.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/BC35BEF6-BB85-4F1C-BD00-D468D63AC802_zps8cwptvul.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/BC35BEF6-BB85-4F1C-BD00-D468D63AC802_zps8cwptvul.jpg.html)

In the mean time I have a new in-patient in my HT undergoing Septra treatment :)

If all goes well, this will turn out to be an other beauty. It's green with shades of toffee accents. It's clearly a bit bleached, so in time I'll get a better idea.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/F13B7AC4-EC60-43B7-BA91-5846F10973E4_zpsc49bo0mx.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/F13B7AC4-EC60-43B7-BA91-5846F10973E4_zpsc49bo0mx.jpg.html)

[bobbravo2]

Dang! You're a nem saving machine! Where did you pick up this new one?

[clorox]

Trying to keep up with Reefahholic, but he beats me by a long margin.

I found it on one of my petco raids :)

[DasCamel]

Looking real good. I've just dealt with treating a Haddoni and Crispa. Be very patient with the lighting. They need a lot after being fully acclimated. It took ramping and 6 weeks for my Haddoni to come out in the open for full light after being ill. it's been about three months for the Crispa to get a beautiful color gradient. i just looked at a day 1 photo, sooooo bleached lol.

[clorox]

I hear you. I can tell my bleached one is still acclimating. It's hard to pinpoint whether it's flow or lighting or a combination of both. It goes from fully expanded and about 6-7" down to 3-4". It could be that it's still getting used to the constant rubbing from the female perc. Luckily, the male prefers the magnifica. Next week I'll introduce the other gig. But I'll wait at least 4-5 days after I'm done with the septra course. The green gig is smaller and I'm concerned the clowns will love it to death.

I ordered the same full spectrum led light fixture that Reefahholic recommended. I'll use it on my HT to better light acclimate nems before they get exposed to the strong lighting of the radions.

[Reefahholic]

He looking good bro!

[clorox]

Thanks man! This anemone is driving me crazy though. It is seriously the most finicky I ever dealt with. I am still trying to find it the perfect spot. So far it hasn't settled yet. Last night it detached most likely because the rock it planted its foot wasn't to its liking, so I had to constantly watch it, turn off wavemakers, wait etc. This morning I found it all expanded, but facing and touching a rock, duh! Repositioned it one more time in a spot that hopefully it will like better. I think it got used to the smooth surface of the bowl I placed it in the HT ;)

[D-Nak]

Thanks man! This anemone is driving me crazy though. It is seriously the most finicky I ever dealt with. I am still trying to find it the perfect spot. So far it hasn't settled yet. Last night it detached most likely because the rock it planted its foot wasn't to its liking, so I had to constantly watch it, turn off wavemakers, wait etc. This morning I found it all expanded, but facing and touching a rock, duh! Repositioned it one more time in a spot that hopefully it will like better. I think it got used to the smooth surface of the bowl I placed it in the HT ;)

Gigs like to attach their foot in a crevice -- not as deep as a BTA -- but not on the surface of a smooth rock like a mag. Once it's settled I'm sure it won't move much.

[clorox]

Yeah, that's what I did, but evidently the angle of attachment, or the fact the crevice was too tight or not to its liking made it want to detach to look for something better. :rolleyes:

Right now it's trying to attach between a rock and sand.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/E2D3C59F-90AF-47FC-9E6F-FF6457AD7466_zps4pac5w4d.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/E2D3C59F-90AF-47FC-9E6F-FF6457AD7466_zps4pac5w4d.jpg.html)

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/DBEF326A-F2C1-4224-93BB-4AB48A69E365_zpsgvcdbfbg.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/DBEF326A-F2C1-4224-93BB-4AB48A69E365_zpsgvcdbfbg.jpg.html)

[taylor t]

If you have some rock rubble, see if you can make a little circle out of it, and drop the nem inside the middle. Maybe enough to drop it in like an open umbrella, and have the underside of the disk supported by the rocks. This way, you can crank up flow, and it can retract if it doesn't like it, or can expand to get more.

It's looking really good.

[clorox]

If you have some rock rubble, see if you can make a little circle out of it, and drop the nem inside the middle. Maybe enough to drop it in like an open umbrella, and have the underside of the disk supported by the rocks. This way, you can crank up flow, and it can retract if it doesn't like it, or can expand to get more.

It's looking really good.

Yeah, I wish I had some small rocks, I know precisely what it's looking for.
Unfortunately around where I live (Santa Monica) LFS are really subpar, so I have to plan ahead of time to go the good ones in the greater LA area (far), which means deal with tons of LA freeway traffic.
Tomorrow I'm scouting the usual suspect LFS's for some good rocks to make the next few gigs happy.

This morning it looked really good, but after it detached this afternoon, I must have repositioned it at least 4-5 times, in part because I didn't have the right shaped crevice that can support it properly, and in part because as soon as I removed my arm from the water, my clowns would plunge back on it shifting it, causing the little f$%$# to float again.:headwally:

I was just about to place it back into my HT, something I was resisting to do as I have an other gig undergoing treatment. Eventually I found a spot that would do the trick at least until tomorrow. It's not happy, it's been puffing up and contracting clearly trying to stick it's foot in a less than ideal position, but I really exhausted my options, so I'm just going to let it be for now.

[taylor t]

It's hard to advise over a screen sometimes, but I think leaving them alone can be the best, sometimes. But, to contradict, sometimes you need to move them...They're brainless... Hard to say. The mouth open like yours is, concerns me, but on the other hand, the ruffled edges looks good. IMO, ruffled edges trumps open mouth, in goodness... Yours has good ruffles... :)

I think blasting one with light, that can't handle it, CAN cause irreversible damage. On the flip side, not providing one with enough light causes the algae to die off. Find what it can handle before deflate, and dial it back slightly. It's easier to bring one back from bleaching, rather than trying to acclimate one that's been damaged by blasting, that refuses to reinflate. I've lost enough this way to see, even though some of the most experienced guys promote light blasting out of the gate, I disagree with them on this.

What ever it takes, to keep them inflated 100% of the time. #1 goal. Not 100% size, but 100% of the time full, not floppy. Floppy usually means big trouble. Open mouth not as dire, but still a concern. ALL of mine have hidden mouths, as in, covered in tentacles. Can't see unless tents flop out of the way from flow, and even then sometimes the mouth is still hidden. It will take months for them to get to this point, most likely. Sometimes lack of light can help keep them stay full, but only in the beginning during acclimation. Ultimately, they need light blasting, (and that's the end goal), but blasting in the beginning I've killed more than I care to share...Double digits, and I'm not talking teens or twenty's.... Some will respond well to light blast, but most won't. IMO, the biggest cause for deflation or inability to attach.

It may help, if you take a picture of it the same time every day, and compare yourself. Make sure it's going forward, not backwards. Maybe a pic at best and worse and compare. Posting pics here may help someone else see something you miss too. :)

Best of luck to you with this guy, I really think this one can make it. :) Sorry to pepper your thread with info you may not want or need, thoughts just keep coming out, in hopes to help someone that reads... :)

[clorox]

It's hard to advise over a screen sometimes, but I think leaving them alone can be the best, sometimes. But, to contradict, sometimes you need to move them...They're brainless... Hard to say. The mouth open like yours is, concerns me, but on the other hand, the ruffled edges looks good. IMO, ruffled edges trumps open mouth, in goodness... Yours has good ruffles... :)

I think blasting one with light, that can't handle it, CAN cause irreversible damage. On the flip side, not providing one with enough light causes the algae to die off. Find what it can handle before deflate, and dial it back slightly. It's easier to bring one back from bleaching, rather than trying to acclimate one that's been damaged by blasting, that refuses to reinflate. I've lost enough this way to see, even though some of the most experienced guys promote light blasting out of the gate, I disagree with them on this.

What ever it takes, to keep them inflated 100% of the time. #1 goal. Not 100% size, but 100% of the time full, not floppy. Floppy usually means big trouble. Open mouth not as dire, but still a concern. ALL of mine have hidden mouths, as in, covered in tentacles. Can't see unless tents flop out of the way from flow, and even then sometimes the mouth is still hidden. It will take months for them to get to this point, most likely. Sometimes lack of light can help keep them stay full, but only in the beginning during acclimation. Ultimately, they need light blasting, (and that's the end goal), but blasting in the beginning I've killed more than I care to share...Double digits, and I'm not talking teens or twenty's.... Some will respond well to light blast, but most won't. IMO, the biggest cause for deflation or inability to attach.

It may help, if you take a picture of it the same time every day, and compare yourself. Make sure it's going forward, not backwards. Maybe a pic at best and worse and compare. Posting pics here may help someone else see something you miss too. :)

Best of luck to you with this guy, I really think this one can make it. :) Sorry to pepper your thread with info you may not want or need, thoughts just keep coming out, in hopes to help someone that reads... :)

This is great information Taylor, I really appreciate the time you took to write this valuable info.

It's currently attached to a rock, but I wouldn't define it as 'settled'. Half of its body (column) is in contact with the sand substrate, and I can almost tell it doesn't really like it. This morning it was inflated, but then too much clown attention made it ball up. It clearly isn't fully acclimated, this weekend I'll observe it carefully and determine if it should go back to the QT for a longer term. It really is an oddball as it doesn't exhibit 'classic' gigantea behavior. My other one in the HT is definitely more like you have described where you can barely see the mouth covered with tentacles and the oral disk has the typical ripples. My bleached one seems to like more a spread out position, possibly because it wants to absorb more light. I also suspect that the clowns attention might be too much for it at this stage. They do a really good job removing any tiny detritus particle from the oral disk, but sometimes they dig into it too forcefully which in combination of the fact it isn't in top shape make it retract like it just did now.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/0056FB68-7171-45E4-AD4E-C3EE3475CDF7_zpsogqjwkuc.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/0056FB68-7171-45E4-AD4E-C3EE3475CDF7_zpsogqjwkuc.jpg.html)

[taylor t]

You're welcome.... Take my opinion as you wish, I can only tell you what's worked for me....


I know some claim clowns help acclimate them. I have found the opposite. Doesn't mean your clowns will harm, but if it was mine, I wouldn't allow clowns around mine until it was acting well for a while, and appeared / reacted strong. I must just get bullies for clowns all the time. I've also read clowns can help anemone's "aspirate", and I can see that point too, but for me, this has never worked with a new arrival. For you , it may be ok, but for me, I don't allow it, atleast not in the beginning.

You can do what you want to acclimate your anemone, but if it was mine, that behavior it's now exhibited, if I recall correctly, twice, is unacceptable, again, IMO. QT. I don't think I would medicate, yet, but I would start the "fresh" saltwater purge process again. IMO,that's not normal, and again, IMO, isn't allowed "in my house". You can leave it and hope for the best, but I would get another 10 gallon, and start again. Just what I would do, they are difficult to acclimate past this stage. I think it's a good call not to mix with your new one, if you choose to do this. Best of luck.

[PeterHall]

Yeah, I wish I had some small rocks, I know precisely what it's looking for.
Unfortunately around where I live (Santa Monica) LFS are really subpar, so I have to plan ahead of time to go the good ones in the greater LA area (far), which means deal with tons of LA freeway traffic.
Tomorrow I'm scouting the usual suspect LFS's for some good rocks to make the next few gigs happy.



Vivid was selling live rock rubble for like $1.50 a pound. If you want to make the trip

[clorox]

You're welcome.... Take my opinion as you wish, I can only tell you what's worked for me....


I know some claim clowns help acclimate them. I have found the opposite. Doesn't mean your clowns will harm, but if it was mine, I wouldn't allow clowns around mine until it was acting well for a while, and appeared / reacted strong. I must just get bullies for clowns all the time. I've also read clowns can help anemone's "aspirate", and I can see that point too, but for me, this has never worked with a new arrival. For you , it may be ok, but for me, I don't allow it, atleast not in the beginning.

You can do what you want to acclimate your anemone, but if it was mine, that behavior it's now exhibited, if I recall correctly, twice, is unacceptable, again, IMO. QT. I don't think I would medicate, yet, but I would start the "fresh" saltwater purge process again. IMO,that's not normal, and again, IMO, isn't allowed "in my house". You can leave it and hope for the best, but I would get another 10 gallon, and start again. Just what I would do, they are difficult to acclimate past this stage. I think it's a good call not to mix with your new one, if you choose to do this. Best of luck.


Yep, that's what I'm about to do, QT and let it recover in time and place it by it self. I just got a smaller tank that I can use just for this anemone, so it can leave it there for as log as needed. I also found a good rock for it, so hopefully it will settle, then I'll just move it back with the rock to the DT.

Vivid was selling live rock rubble for like $1.50 a pound. If you want to make the trip

That's where I just returned from, they also had an electric green Haddoni, which was very tempting, but now that I got the Gigantea bug my eyes are just for them ;)

[clorox]

So....I placed the bleached gig back in a QT tank.

It is more or less inflated, but clearly stressed out. I put it back into the ceramic bowl.
It is spewing a gelatinous blob that is hard to see clearly.

The mouth is open, but not gaping wide. At this point I am going to do 100% water changes, but I am debating whether I should treat again with septra or not?

I am aware I made the mistake of optimistically thinking that after 5 days of Septra and 3 of QT observation, it was ready to go back to the DT. This little guy would have needed a few weeks of QT. Hopefully it is not lost, but I give it 50-50 chances to survive.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/E118FDB9-359B-43AA-A01C-01F949C86C32_zps1v3ut3io.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/E118FDB9-359B-43AA-A01C-01F949C86C32_zps1v3ut3io.jpg.html)

On the bright side the green/tan one is looking real good. I also placed a rock a found yesterday with a deep round crevice, so starting to day, I will stop septra and QT it for about 1 week, but placing it on the rock. Then when it's ready, I will move it to the DT attached to the rock.

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/8166ED48-EF91-46C1-8E7A-579E3CC92C4F_zpsukacjpu1.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/8166ED48-EF91-46C1-8E7A-579E3CC92C4F_zpsukacjpu1.jpg.html)

http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/DD8CCA86-1110-4D10-9D61-35401C2B29F6_zpsbnyr6l5j.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/DD8CCA86-1110-4D10-9D61-35401C2B29F6_zpsbnyr6l5j.jpg.html)

[Reefahholic]

Yeah he's looking good.

Just don't put him with the other one. Probably get him sick.

[clorox]

Unfortunately the bleached gig, didn't make it. I blame it on my inexperience treating S.Gigantea. I should have kept it in qt much longer, at least 1 more week and keep observing. I was deceived by the nice inflation for 4 continuous days after I stopped Septra, but I guess it wasn't ready yet for being placed in my DT.

***As a sidenote. I know my DT water is good, as I have an H.Magnifica that has almost doubled in size in the past month. As a matter of fact, everything in my tank has grown beyond my expectations. I have some bta's that quadrupled in size in about 2 months, to the point I need to start planning selling some ***

When I pulled it out from my DT, I started treating with Cipro this time, but I think the bacterial infection or whatever it was, must have been at an advanced stage, because it degraded rapidly in the span of 2-3 days.

It went from this
http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/F6B7733A-E49B-42D7-BF3C-2C3A2BA5DDCE_zpspf4cskkp.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/F6B7733A-E49B-42D7-BF3C-2C3A2BA5DDCE_zpspf4cskkp.jpg.html)

To this, in the span of 3 days, despite 100% water changes and cipro.
http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/CF65BAAE-6E21-4F64-AB1F-823B8011DF8A_zpsimgat6zo.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/CF65BAAE-6E21-4F64-AB1F-823B8011DF8A_zpsimgat6zo.jpg.html)

I think I spent close to 10 days baby sitting it and well over 100g of water changes. I was starting to feel a bit exhausted also cause I have the green/tan one in a separate HT that has been deflating suddenly after I thought it was stable.

This green/tan went from this:
http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/EAB2D5E9-6186-451E-9D21-9EAAAB9A2CA8_zps4xcznrcs.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/EAB2D5E9-6186-451E-9D21-9EAAAB9A2CA8_zps4xcznrcs.jpg.html)

To this, then back inflated and then deflated again.:headwally:
http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/twistepixel/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/2419F0A2-9B48-4059-AD0A-4F50A7F85C53_zpsqu8pdr29.jpg (http://s1107.photobucket.com/user/twistepixel/media/Stichodactyla%20Gigantea/2419F0A2-9B48-4059-AD0A-4F50A7F85C53_zpsqu8pdr29.jpg.html)


I now have a proper led full spectrum light on my HT that was suggested by Reefahholic. For less than $100 the thing rocks, and is dimmable in fine increments, highly recommended.

[D-Nak]

I feel your pain. I currently have four gigs in QT (I don't know what I was thinking). I received two last week and both are deflating/inflating. I received another two this morning (I have yet to positively ID one, as it looks a bit "off") and both are doing well as of today, though it can be expected because IME the sickness typically doesn't appear for a couple of days.

I don't mean to derail your thread, as I plan to start thread to document the gigs, but I just wanted to let you know that I think you tried your best, and it's not an easy thing to do. The sting may last a while -- I've lost 4 gigs to date and it still stings.

[D-Nak]

Also, in hindsight, I used to advocate providing a lot of light for acclimating gigs. I've since changed my stance on this and currently have two gigs in QT with very limited light (just indirect sunlight). The small ones seem very sensitive to light.

[clorox]

I feel your pain. I currently have four gigs in QT (I don't know what I was thinking). I received two last week and both are deflating/inflating. I received another two this morning (I have yet to positively ID one, as it looks a bit "off") and both are doing well as of today, though it can be expected because IME the sickness typically doesn't appear for a couple of days.

I don't mean to derail your thread, as I plan to start thread to document the gigs, but I just wanted to let you know that I think you tried your best, and it's not an easy thing to do. The sting may last a while -- I've lost 4 gigs to date and it still stings.

Thanks D-Nak. The only reason I didn't pull the trigger too convincingly on the ones on offer today at DD was mostly due to frustration after just losing the bleached one in the morning. I already have the green one in my HT and honestly I don't know if I can take babysitting 2 at the same time again and at different levels of recovery. No idea how you can do 4!

One thing is for sure, I am going to get a blue or purple at some point.

[clorox]

Also, in hindsight, I used to advocate providing a lot of light for acclimating gigs. I've since changed my stance on this and currently have two gigs in QT with very limited light (just indirect sunlight). The small ones seem very sensitive to light.

I have been trying every permutation, low light and even bounced sunlight with use of a mirror and diffuser.

Just now I was blasting it with flow and my new led light I just received today and it inflated again. I turned the light back down to 20% from 60% as this thing is super bright. I have been taking notes indicating time of day and light intensity as well as flow in the attempt to recreate a repeatable pattern. It might be wishful thinking, but perhaps worth the effort.

[D-Nak]

I have been trying every permutation, low light and even bounced sunlight with use of a mirror and diffuser.

Just now I was blasting it with flow and my new led light I just received today and it inflated again. I turned the light back down to 20% from 60% as this thing is super bright. I have been taking notes indicating time of day and light intensity as well as flow in the attempt to recreate a repeatable pattern. It might be wishful thinking, but perhaps worth the effort.

I'm taking notes as well. What I observe is that it's almost as if they fill up with energy derived from light, then deflate, as if they had too much light. By keeping them in a low light environment, based on this theory, they should never deflate.

The problem is all gigs I've had though QT is that they all release dead (or what is believed to be) zooxanthellae. There just seems to be a tipping point as to where they may have too much dead zoox and can't expel it all. With regards to flow, it's a tough call -- too much and the nem uses energy to remain attached, not enough flow and it works too hard to expel the dead zoox.

[clorox]

I'm taking notes as well. What I observe is that it's almost as if they fill up with energy derived from light, then deflate, as if they had too much light. By keeping them in a low light environment, based on this theory, they should never deflate.

The problem is all gigs I've had though QT is that they all release dead (or what is believed to be) zooxanthellae. There just seems to be a tipping point as to where they may have too much dead zoox and can't expel it all. With regards to flow, it's a tough call -- too much and the nem uses energy to remain attached, not enough flow and it works too hard to expel the dead zoox.

Yes, that's exactly my same conclusion from observing them after an inordinate number of hours per day. I am at the point where I am making tiny adjustments of flow and lighting. I am using a combination of a nano koralia, an MJ-1200 and an aquaclear 20 to recreate a gentle swaying flow.
Took me almost a week to dial it right, and only today I seem to have found the correct ratio. Now I am playing with light intensity, manually 'dosing' from 20% to 60% and back to 20% for a couple of hours and observe any reaction.:fun5: