Are there any woods that should be avoided when building a stand?

[Jimmer12]

I'm about to design and build a stand for my 46 bowfront and want to do something more along the lines of cabinetry rather than a 2x4 based construction. I was originally thinking knotty pine for the structural parts and a veneered ply for panels and now my wife is wanting cedar for the look and smell. Anyway are there any woods to avoid that won't handle being around constant moisture?

[muttley000]

The cedar will only smell good if you don't finish it, you will definitely want a good finish because you will need to repel the water that will eventually be there. I don't think of any wood to avoid, as long as it is treated properly.

[Poseidon]

My stand is made of Cedar, wrapped in Cedar as well. Unfortunately, no aroma.

[uncleof6]

Paritcle board, MDF, hardboard, and anyting that is 4 x 4. Best is hardwood plywood, with no lumber members. (up to standard 240 gallon.)

[aleok]

Paritcle board, MDF, hardboard, and anyting that is 4 x 4. Best is hardwood plywood, with no lumber members. (up to standard 240 gallon.)

whats wrong with using 4x4's? I used 4x4 douglas fir for the majority of my 90g

[billdogg]

4x4's have a tendency to warp and split as they dry. You should also avoid treated (outdoor) lumber due to the use of copper and or arsenic

[ca1ore]

4x4's have a tendency to warp and split as they dry.

Agreed! Sistered 2x4s are better than a single 4x4. Plywood beams best of all.

[uncleof6]

whats wrong with using 4x4's? I used 4x4 douglas fir for the majority of my 90g

Adding to what bill stated, all dimensioned lumber does warp, as it dries. However, 4 x 4's are the absolute worst, and they split pretty badly as well.

Single 2 x 4's are more stable than 4 x 4's, and the bulk of 4 x 4's is simply not needed to support the light loads that these tanks present. 2 x 4's are way more than enough to hold a tiny 90 gallon tank...and way more reliable. Actually, sistered 2 x's are way overkill as well... ;) In the case of 4 x 4's, overkill is actually underkill, and a bit risky.

On the other side of the coin, as I said, 3/4" hardwood plywood, is more than enough to support a rimmed 240 gallon tank, with no dimensioned lumber. (Rimless requires some additional top support.) It also requires less skill and tools to build a plywood stand.

[ReefMonkey13]

Adding to what bill stated, all dimensioned lumber does warp, as it dries. However, 4 x 4's are the absolute worst, and they split pretty badly as well.

Single 2 x 4's are more stable than 4 x 4's, and the bulk of 4 x 4's is simply not needed to support the light loads that these tanks present. 2 x 4's are way more than enough to hold a tiny 90 gallon tank...and way more reliable. Actually, sistered 2 x's are way overkill as well... ;) In the case of 4 x 4's, overkill is actually underkill, and a bit risky.

On the other side of the coin, as I said, 3/4" hardwood plywood, is more than enough to support a rimmed 240 gallon tank, with no dimensioned lumber. (Rimless requires some additional top support.) It also requires less skill and tools to build a plywood stand.


Apologies fr high jacking your thread.

Can you please elaborate on the rimless part. I'm in the process of building a plywood stand for a rimless tank.

Thanks in advance for the guidance.

[sleepydoc]

+1 to what everyone has said. I would also put forth that balsa wood is a poor choice. :lol2:

[uncleof6]

Apologies fr high jacking your thread.

Can you please elaborate on the rimless part. I'm in the process of building a plywood stand for a rimless tank.

Thanks in advance for the guidance.

For a rimless tank, since plywood laying flat is not rigid, rather too flexible, the top needs solid support to save the tank from self destructing as the stand top deflects down.

I notch in 2 x's front to back (more often I use laminated plywood beams, much like a torsion box of exact tank dimensions, e.g. tank not floated) every couple of feet, to prevent the top from deflecting. If over 2 ft front to back, you may need some longitudinal support as well. Weight is not the issue really, it is deflection.

[Jimmer12]

Alright so no balsa lol. I definitely don't want to do a 2x4 based stand. I am thinking using 1x4 of something attractive to form the legs and other structural members and inset panels of something else for rigidity and contrast when I stain them a different finish.

[uncleof6]

Alright so no balsa lol. I definitely don't want to do a 2x4 based stand. I am thinking using 1x4 of something attractive to form the legs and other structural members and inset panels of something else for rigidity and contrast when I stain them a different finish.

Sounds like hardwood ply if you ask me. 1 x 4 is a step in the right direction, however, plywood is going to be stronger, because a solid sheet is used, with cutouts for the doors. 1 x 4 construction is weaker, because of the joins between members, and is not really much better than thin dimensioned lumber. Sheet plywood gives all the rigidity needed, and is impossible to rack over. (a little applied physics involved here)

Hardwood ply, oak and cherry, are rather easy to come by. Other varieties can be had, but a little harder to locate a good source. A little trim work, and no one will ever know it is actually plywood. Hardwood doors contrasting, on the other hand, would be a nice touch.

Very good example:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1213499

[woodnaquanut]

I would also put forth that balsa wood is a poor choice. :lol2:

Don't use Ironwood. It might rust! :lolspin:

I made my 120's stand out of Maple ply, solid Maple face frame and solid Maple doors to match fireplace.

Check out the ply available at a GOOD wood supplier, NOT HD or Lowe's. They will have many wood species available.

If you do decide to use solid wood (not recommended), look for either rift sawn or quarter sawn. Much more stable than the more typical plain sawn.

[minix4242]

+1 Paritcle board, MDF, hardboard, and anyting that is 4 x 4.

MDF is great to work with, but a little humidity or water and it swells up and disintegrates. Stick with REAL wood.

[Jimmer12]

+1

MDF is great to work with, but a little humidity or water and it swells up and disintegrates. Stick with REAL wood.
Yeah MDF ain't happening, not a chance in hell. This will be a wood stand, if I wanted a cheap ugly stand I would go to big als and buy one of those ikea style stands.

[aleok]

4x4's have a tendency to warp and split as they dry. You should also avoid treated (outdoor) lumber due to the use of copper and or arsenic

Well shoot, wish I knew that before. My stands been holding up for 2 years now, should I be concerned? Add 2x4 supports somewhere/somehow?

Sorry for hijacking!

[john08007]

Nah, if that's been up for 2 years then I doubt its going to get any dryer than it already is.

[uncleof6]

Nah, if that's been up for 2 years then I doubt its going to get any dryer than it already is.

Would not want to count on that. 4 x 4's are bad news.