Bulkhead leaking.. Cannot get to bulkhead to tighten/repair...

[Praben]

Hello RC! I have a bit of a major problem, one of the bulkheads on my 125gal drilled tank is leaking slightly. OK no problem, we tighten it/replace it right? Well... the way my custom stand was built I don't see how I can get a wrench in this space to reach the bottom of the bulkhead to tighten it or remove it. This is what I get for having my "expert" friend set everything up before I knew anything about anything, I could go on for hours about that debacle.

I've included 4 pictures, 2 are looking up from the underneath the tank when I stick my head through the front access door. The other 2 are of a very small opening I have on the back of the bottom of stand when I can see both pipes. The one leaking is the one closest to the front of the tank.

I have no idea what to do here. After having this tank up for 3-4 years this design flaw appears to be a HUGE issue. I'm asking myself how it was every installed if I cannot get a wrench in this space, I think the bulkheads and the initial pipes where installed and then the tank was lifted onto the stand (I could be wrong though).

Please help! Where do I begin?

[Reefer54]

DOW CORNING 795. It will seal over the wet area if it is a slow enough drip, cure and be ok. I have used excessive pvc cement in the past with luck, but always covered a faulty area excessively with silicone, but dow corning is my favorite for seals....it is ridiculous industrial.

or take apart everything....you may be able to make that hole a little bigger if you are really careful.

sorry, good luck.

[Praben]

Do you know if any major stores (Lowes, Ace, etc.) carry that? Searching on Home Depot's website they link to Pittsburgh Corning Model # 102133 Glass Block Sealant, it appears similar.

I'm concerned a sealant won't be enough, you've had luck in the past though?

I was cleaning the return nozzle at the top of this bulkhead/pipe and I assume that is when the leak started. I've done the same exact maintenance several times and no leaks, ugh.

I honestly don't even know how I would begin taking everything apart... To get to the nut that tightens the bulkhead I would need to lift the 125 gallon tank on top, and I assume it would need to be empty. 4 Years of coral, rock, livestock, etc., I wouldn't have enough buckets and containers to store it! It is all glued PVC throughout the bottom into the refugium.. I hope there is another way, I may foreclose on my house before I could undo then redo this setup, the time/money/work is mind boggling to me.

[Praben]

Looking at this issue for the last hour nonstop trying not to have a heart attack or simply cry, here is a clear explanation of the problem. The bottom of the bulkheads are blocked by wood that surrounds them. The way the stand was built, the top of the stand had a flat sheet of wood that acts as a base for the tank to sit on. This wood base appears to have been cut the absolute minimum possible to allow the pipes from the bulkheads to fit (hence why I think the tank was lifted onto the stand after the bulkheads/pipes were set).

The tank itself does not sit flush against the entire flat base of the stand though, I can see the glass sits just off of the wood (1/4"?), because only the frame of the tank is actually sitting on the base of the stand. Do you think it would be possible to cut away some of the wood while the tank is full, standing in place or am I asking to die?

[gone fishin]

I really feel for you on this one. Is it possible to get a screwdriver on the ears of the flange and give it a tap to tighten it.

Just from the picks I think I would try to use a dremel to cut away some of the wood for access. But you are there and I am not so I can't really tell if it is load bearing or not.

Or just live with the leak get or build a better stand and swap it out. My favored choice. Anyway good luck.

[DasCamel]

Depends on what you cut, and if it's a supporting structure. If your asking that question I probably wouldn't do it.

[Dapg8gt]

If you can get it dry by shutting off the tank an industrial sealant or spray on epoxy should work for a while but you never know when it will start to drip again..

Cheap one to gain some time is that as seen on TV stuff called mighty seal (spray on screen door in boat) it works pretty well actually I used it on a cracked back splash in my garage that was all rotted out behind an old concrete mop sink and it gave me some time till I replaced it.. Might have lasted the duration I just can't let myself rig something permanently.. I would personally try all I could to tighten it with a chisel/screwdriver and if that failed I'd rip it down and start over..

[pmrossetti]

I think you could cut the wood out from around it.

Tanks I've seen have much bigger cutouts around the bulkheads.

you're not cutting any vertical supports, right?

[nazarma]

I think you could cut the wood out from around it.

Tanks I've seen have much bigger cutouts around the bulkheads.

you're not cutting any vertical supports, right?

I had the same problem! I just cut around it with a dermal. I took it very slow and carefully. Make sure to check the distance between bottom of tank and stank I had a 1/2 inch gap because of bottom brace.

[Praben]

Thank you so much everyone for the feedback, I'm in shock of the situation, the leak is one thing but to realize the major design issue NOW is killing me.

I've added 4 more pictures to try to show the leaking area and what I'm working with in regards to the gap between the stand top wood base and the gap, which is about 1/4" between the wood and glass. Only the outer "rim" of the tank is actually sitting on the stand it appears.

I'm not a pro with a dremel, but have used it for a few dozen jobs over the years. What would be the correct blade/bit I would want to use, if I attempt this? The wood itself is 11/16" thick and I only have 1/4" gap max between the wood and the glass bottom of the tank (which I do not want to even tap).

I may try one of the sealants recommended as a quick fix, but would like to feel a little more secure with a tightened or replaced bulkhead in the long run. I do like the stand, the outside was custom built by a cabinet manufacturer. But, my friend the "set me up" when I purchased the tank suggested we raise the stand (3 levels of 2 x 4"s then the flat piece covering the whole thing). I assume if I could cut adequate room around the bulkheads I should be OK down the road?

[Praben]

I tried to get a screwdriver on the flange ear and give it a few light taps, no luck. May have increased the speed of the leak very slightly if anything. I'm assuming there is a hairline crack in the bulkhead or the gasket, and when I moved it a little when reapplying the return nozzle earlier it was enough to get it flowing.

[Praben]

I had the same problem! I just cut around it with a dermal. I took it very slow and carefully. Make sure to check the distance between bottom of tank and stank I had a 1/2 inch gap because of bottom brace.

Glad I'm not the only one! I wish I had a full 1/2", would feel a little better about it. Do you know why the wood around yours was not cut out as much as 99% of the other tanks out there? This friend that got me into the hobby and setup this tank for me, one problem after the other (skimmer on wrong side of refug, inflow/outflow pipes placed in wrong bulkheads, and this). What type of bit/wheel/blade did you use on the dremel?

[rgulrich]

I see two choices here. 1.) try to work around this by using an oscillating cutter, dremel, or some such and actually gain some access to the nut on the bulkhead to tighten it, and then worry about the integrity of the fix and the stand for however long you decide to keep the aquarium up and running. 2.) Pick up a Rubbermaid stock tank, seal the bulkhead stopper very well and test it a few times with water (they're kind of renowned for leaking...it's a stock tank), and set it up to hold your livestock with filtration, skimming, lighting and all until you get your stand and aquarium issues fixed.
I've been down both paths and like not worrying, myself. I'm also not intimidated by shutting down my 300 if conditions warrant - not something I'd look forward to, mind you, but I've set up a 150 stock tank in the basement for all of the inverts and rock before.

[billdogg]

The only real option, I'm sorry to say, is to fix it properly. Glopping on sealant (of whatever type) around the leak will just delay the inevitable. It will be quite the PITA, but you need to do it right. IF you can cut away enough of the plywood to get decent access to the bulkhead that is great, you might be able to fix it that way. IMO/IME, you will end up taking the bulkhead apart, cleaning all surfaces, and reinstalling it. Another thing to keep in mind is that, unless that plywood is exterior grade, it will begin to delaminate, and then what's the plan?

[Lincutis]

I had a similar problem a few years ago. Ran to the CVS and picked up some mighty putty. It works in the wet environment. I formed a good seal and held it in place for a while. Never had another issue from it as long as I had that tank which was a few years.

[Texas Paul]

You should try to fix it properly, but plumbers putty epoxy will work. Make sure you putty from the threads all the way past the flange nut to the tank bottom and to the stand cut out. Use a lot and try to create a cone completely around the bulkhead all the way to the cut out. Try not to put any bending loads on the bulkhead from the plumbing attached. In my experience, bending loads makes them leak. I try to keep a short run of vinyl tubing between the hard piping of the bulkhead and the hard piping to the sump and return pump. Keeps the side loads down and helps with leaks. Good luck!

[ca1ore]

Must say, it looks to me as if the bulkhead was installed incorrectly. I cannot tell for sure from the photos, but it looks like the gasket is on the nut side rather than on the flange side. It also appears that silicone was used on the flange side, which works ok as long as the gasket is on that side too.

I think if you are careful, you could use a Dremel to remove part of the plywood top. 1/4 inch clearance is tight, so just make sure to set up the drill so that the bit cannot touch the glass. After that, I would not 'band-aid' things with putty or sealant. Rather remove the bulkhead, clean it (probably not cracked) and reinstall properly. Often, just attempting to tighten the nut will cause it to leak even worse.

[Lincutis]

They do make L shaped crescent wrenches that would probably work.

[Praben]

Update: After reading through all of the replies (thank you) and talking with the owner of my LFS, I'm going to try to cut some of the wood away and try to make enough room to get to the bulkhead.

I bought the mini saw attachment for my dremel, part #670 (pictured). I don't think the little blade will be thick enough to cut completely through the wood, but I'm so concerned with hitting the glass I think I would rather start with this and if I have to go back with something else and take a small bit off, then so be it.

[Pittsburgh]

Dremel also has a multipurpose cutting bit (#561). You can have it stick out just enough so that it doesn't go beyond the thickness of plywood. If the saw blade is not enough, the cutting bit should finish the job.

[rioshilo]

A router bit is what you want for that job. Then set the height so that the bit remains a safe distance away from the glass.

A different method that may work other then a wrench... I didn't have any wrenches when I installed my bulkheads I took a 2x4 and ripped a section out of the middle of one end about 2" wide, or whatever the flats of the nuts were sized at. That 2x4 then acted like a socket, slipping over the threads down to the nut and engaging them to tighten the bulkhead.

[Texas Paul]

Praben - Bulkheads can be a real pain to install when they are on the bottom of the tank. Here are a few tools that can help make the job easier. One is from the Orange Big Box Store, the other is ordered on-line. These might make the job a little easier.....

Good Luck!

http://i.imgur.com/LvoUKn7l.png

http://i.imgur.com/utCT5b2l.png

[jamiepm]

Is it a slow leak? I have a similar problem bulkhead that drips maybe one drop an hour. I have no way of getting at it. I put a piece of thread from the leak to a small tuperware dish. The thread makes sure the moisture follows it to the dish. Every once in a while I rinse the dish.

[devildog12210]

http://i.imgur.com/utCT5b2l.png

I never knew such a thing existed!

[Reefer54]

dow corning is going to be an order item....but overnight shipping is possible.

i have the same kind of hole in my stand, no way could i ever get a tool or even my hand in to tighten anything up there....i know what you are contemplating.

however, i think the best route is to stop flow through there if possible, let it dry (hairdryers are awesome, but be ready to epoxy or seal as soon as you are done drying (expansion, contraction can be used in your favor here)) then apply some silicone or sealant and it should band aid until you can get a good sealant like dow corning or decide the best alternative route you choose.


good luck.....i hope when you are done, you say to yourself: that wasnt so bad.

[Texas Paul]

I never knew such a thing existed!

I never did either until mine started leaking!!!!!:headwallblue:

[WestTexasReefer]

Sure wish I knew about that a couple of weeks ago. I just changed out my sump, plumbing and 4 bulkheads. That would have saved me an immense amount of time not to mention what a PITA those little bulkhead wrenches are.

[Praben]

Update #2:

The mini saw attachment for the dremel was no help. The piece of wood I need to cut away is 11/16" and the stock mini circular saw blade is only cut about 1/4". It is a really neat attachment and works well, just not for this.

So I went back to Home Depot to find a larger blade. Well, they only seem to make dremel blades up to 1/2" cuts. That is a lot of extra material in a tight space for me to try and break off, that wasn't going to work. I asked several home depot employees for suggestions, explained my situation from the beginning. They said it can't be done with a dremel from that thick of wood and other cutting items are too large, you may cut through and hit the glass.. It can't be done guy sorry!

I didn't like this answer so I looked through every dremel accessory they sell for a bit. I noticed on the box of a higher series dremel it came with a cutting guide and showed a measurement of greater than 0.5". I found the sold separately accessory and it didn't list the sizes it offered, but I figured lets give it a shot. (I cut some pieces for this tank with a regular dremel bit, they aren't 100% straight but I don't care about that for this!).

Sure enough it goes up to 1 inch and came with a multipurpose bit! I set everything up and tested various depths on extra boards I had left over from the tank install 4 years ago. I went to a depth that left about 1/16" material left, that way it would not poke through a hit the glass AND would not shoot saw dust up in the crack. It worked pretty well, had to take it slow. Since the bulkhead/pipe was literally against the wood, I couldn't get to the edge with the dremel attachment guard, so I had to very carefully freehand it.

I managed to cut out a piece large enough to get a wrench to the nut/flange to tighten it, no luck, actually got a little worse. Tomorrow I will go to the LFS and buy a new bulkhead and replace this one. I may go back and cut more wood off of this side (and the other) to try to make easier access. I cut the bare minimum to get a wrench in there for now.

[Praben]

Praben - Bulkheads can be a real pain to install when they are on the bottom of the tank. Here are a few tools that can help make the job easier. One is from the Orange Big Box Store, the other is ordered on-line. These might make the job a little easier.....

Good Luck!

http://i.imgur.com/LvoUKn7l.png

http://i.imgur.com/utCT5b2l.png

Thank you for sharing. At very least I'm probably going to the Orange Box to pick those up, my wrench was barely big enough to do the job. I will order a bulkhead wrench to keep around in the future though.

[Sk8r]

no chance a sand grain or two got into the seal, right?
In general, you are a lot safer applying sealant than in continuing to tighten. Generally if a bulkhead connector seal is going to work when tightened, it will seal adequately when a reasonably strong woman's hand tightens it, that much, and no more. If it's not sealing, yes, I'd go for a sealant. I have one that was a wee bit weepy, and time and mineral deposit cured it, but I'd worry about it getting worse instead of better.

[artembukhman]

If you look at the gasket usually from factory time to time they leave a piece of rubber on it and that's why it will leak not matter how much you tighten it. A sharp knife will do the trick!

[ray6379]

champion lighting sells bulk head wrenches made at of acrylic. may just fit there.

[Praben]

Update: This project is killing me... It seemed so simple once I had a plan. I was able to cut some more of the wood away today (pictured). I had to cut one of the pvc pipes to remove the bulkhead, since I had everything hard plumbed and PVC glued. It was a blast trying to get in this little space with a hacksaw. After I removed the return pipe, bulkhead and piping underneath I noticed upon inspection the bulkhead does in fact have a crack in it (pictured). PROBLEM FOUND!

I had to remove my hood/canopy to reach down to clean the area where the bulkhead is. I haven't removed it in 2 years probably, that was a project in itself! I've cleaned the area thoroughly, cleaned up all of the sawdust that went everywhere, cut a piece of pipe to replace the area I had to cut (have a coupler to attach). I was getting ready to start assembling and realized my PVC glue is dried up.

Questions:
1: Do I have to wait 24hours for PVC glue to dry before adding water? I won't be able to get PVC glue until tomorrow after work 6-7PM (16-17hrs from now)

2: I was planning on applying silicone around the top of the bulkhead once the installation was finished, how important is this step? My other 3 are done this way, my concern is dry/cure time, silicone I need 24 hours before I can add water again correct?

3: I'm on day 3 of this now, the return pump and most other pumps are NOT running this entire time. How long will this be OK before I start losing fish/coral? I have 2 powerheads in the main tank, pointed up slightly to break the surface. In the refugium I only have my skimmer running, which is moving water but nothing for the surface. The lights are down now with the hood, but I can get those back up tomorrow.

[Daemonfly]

If you got a replacement bulkhead, I'd just pop it in, skip the silicone, and wait about 10-15 min for the pvc glue. A few minutes is usually good, but I don't know what glue you're using.

If you didn't get a replacement bulkhead, well... I wouldn't use it again, period.

[ecksreef]

A correctly installed bulkhead needs no silicone.

[Dapg8gt]

No silicone needed whatsoever on bulkheads. No need to wait 24 hours for the pvc glue either Def install some unions one these now while you can so in the future you can remove the whole deal if any issues come up..

I'd say you need as much flow as possible running thru the tank. If you need to drop the water level a bit to accomplish it it's for sure in your tanks best interest to have flow and heat. Lights can probably go 72 hours + without any issues. I would start back up with a reduced photo period to minimize light shock just in case.

[Hudzon]

remember gasket and flange on inside of tank nut on outside, no need for silicone also do not use any Teflon tape and do not over tighten, I myself wipe the threads and gasket with plumber's grease, then wipe it clean.

[Mark9]

It was a blast trying to get in this little space with a hacksaw.


These are way better for cutting PVC, takes a few seconds and always gives a clean cut.
Just cut where you have easy access then add a union.

PVC Cutter (http://www.lowes.com/pd_469264-943-37116_0__?productId=4684005&Ntt=)

[Praben]

No silicone needed whatsoever on bulkheads. No need to wait 24 hours for the pvc glue either Def install some unions one these now while you can so in the future you can remove the whole deal if any issues come up..

I'd say you need as much flow as possible running thru the tank. If you need to drop the water level a bit to accomplish it it's for sure in your tanks best interest to have flow and heat. Lights can probably go 72 hours + without any issues. I would start back up with a reduced photo period to minimize light shock just in case.

I've heard some people tell me 24 hours for the pvc glue and others tell me as little as 15 minutes. I can't seem to find any concrete evidence one way or the other?

I've never seen a union before, a quick google search that looks like a good idea. For my 1" piping in this area, is there a specific one or type I should use?

I'm ran into some issues with the temperature this morning. I added a heater last night, but apparently it only kicks on for a second then died. The tank was down in the 72 degrees range. I bumped the house a/c to 80 and it get pretty hot during the day here in Florida, at least during the day I know it won't drop any lower. If I have to go another night I will buy more heaters. I'm at work now, will be home around 7pm.

[Praben]

These are way better for cutting PVC, takes a few seconds and always gives a clean cut.
Just cut where you have easy access then add a union.

PVC Cutter (http://www.lowes.com/pd_469264-943-37116_0__?productId=4684005&Ntt=)

TIL! Guess I should ask these things before doing them, I keep forgetting how amazing people are on RC.

[Praben]

Yes I did purchase a new bulkhead, yes the gasket on the inside of the tank. I'll skip any additions like teflon tape and silicone.

[Mark9]

These are way better for cutting PVC, takes a few seconds and always gives a clean cut.
Just cut where you have easy access then add a union.

PVC Cutter (http://www.lowes.com/pd_469264-943-37116_0__?productId=4684005&Ntt=)


TIL! Guess I should ask these things before doing them, I keep forgetting how amazing people are on RC.

Just noticed some of the reviews on this model are not that flattering.
I have these exact cutters, bought at Lowes, have never had an issue cutting any PVC.

[slief]

I've heard some people tell me 24 hours for the pvc glue and others tell me as little as 15 minutes. I can't seem to find any concrete evidence one way or the other?

I've never seen a union before, a quick google search that looks like a good idea. For my 1" piping in this area, is there a specific one or type I should use?

I'm ran into some issues with the temperature this morning. I added a heater last night, but apparently it only kicks on for a second then died. The tank was down in the 72 degrees range. I bumped the house a/c to 80 and it get pretty hot during the day here in Florida, at least during the day I know it won't drop any lower. If I have to go another night I will buy more heaters. I'm at work now, will be home around 7pm.

I've never ever waited 24 hours for PVC glue to dry. I wait no more than an hour but no less than 15 minutes. I do try to evacuate as much vapor from the lines as possible by leaving any unions disconnected before and after the glue joint. If this is a drain line going to your sump, than it's not much to concern yourself with. On a return line a little air if possible through the pvc lines is a good thing just to help insure that not much of the glue vapor makes it way into the display.

[Justin_S]

I'm not sure I would be concerned with cutting the wood away so long as the ends and corners of a glass tank are supported firmly. On my glass tank, literally only the left and right 7" of tank edge are supported and I have about 20lbs of rock per foot of tank length. Corners are especially important. I think your doing the right thing.

[Justin_S]

Oh and I go 2 hours on the PVC cement to dry, I've never ever had any problems! But I do give the pipe area a sniff if it's potent to the nose I wait a while longer, also I give it a ***** with my thumb, if it's soft, wait. I leave the union unhooked to cure. I've always been impressed by how fast that stuff gets strong! I use unions all over the place: drains, returns, etc, no leaks if tightened well.. But if not, yes, it (the union) will leak.

[TheRuss]

Can you use a Multi master tool to cut the wood? It is one of my favorite and most used tools I own.

This is the one I own. It's expensive, but worth it:

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Makita-Multi-Tool-Kit-Tool-less-TM3010CX1/204706951/

[tatman371971]

Looks kinda cocked in that corner I would just take apart make the hole bigger and get a new bulk head.

[Praben]

RESOLVED - FINAL UPDATE

tl;dr version of fix: Cut wood away that is surrounding pipe without cutting through and hitting the glass using a demel and this attachment (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-566-Tile-Cutting-Attachment-Kit-566-0/202349444) (566 Tile Cutting Guide), set to desired depth of the wood. Cut the pvc pipe that is glued into the bulkhead using this (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-4-in-PVC-Cutters-50506SEN/100662400) (PCV Cutters), or a hacksaw if you want to make it hard on yourself. Remove and replace the cracked bulkhead. Reattach the cut pipe with a union (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Mueller-Streamline-1-in-PVC-Pressure-S-x-S-Union-164-635HC/100345689) or use a coupler like I did if the union is too large for the area. Be sure to use enough PVC primer and glue and let it dry for 1-2 hours. You're welcome for the summary the 1 person that may have this exact issue that I did!

OK, my actual update on this nightmare that should have been easy (sounds easy in my summary paragraph above anyway). I went and purchased a new bulkhead, pvc glue and a union to get this finished up. Made several dry fittings to ensure the pipe/union/bulkhead would all line up once I broke out the pvc glue. The union was too large for this area and hit the side of the stand, so that was a no go. That is OK, I had a few couplers laying around. Re dry ran everything to ensure measurements. Primed everything and let dry. Started on the lower part of the pipe replacement and starting gluing everything finishing with tightening the bulkhead and replacing the plumping in the tank area. Time to take a break and let this dry.

After 6-7 hours of drying, more than enough, I put some water in the back corner of the tank to ensure the bulkhead didn't leak, success! I went ahead and added enough water back to the tank (I drained the back corner areas since there was 0 flow there for 3 days) and kicked on the return pump. Nothing... Restart x40. Nothing. Return pump was dead. Seriously? I pulled it out, gave it a good cleaning and reinstalled it. It worked! Water was flowing again through this area after 3-4 days and 0 drips! Success... or so I thought.

Checking on it 2-3 hours later there is dripping water on the bottom of pvc elbow in this area dripping down in to a bucket I still had there. Really? Yes really. The top of the coupler I used apparently wasn't glued well enough and just a needle tip area had water pushing out of the top of this connection. My morale was crushed at this point, turned the return pump off and went to bed. Refused to look at the tank the next day and was starting to list what I had to sell/give it all away. This stupid leak has dragged on 5 days and took some unreal amount of hours.

Despite being told this was a waste of time, that night I applied about 5-6 layers of PVC glue to the top of the coupler. The first couple layers I used a toothpick ensuring I got it into every mm of the top of the coupler and pipe. The subsequent layers I painted on thick, creating a nice bead around the area. I let it dry overnight and turned the return pump on again. No initial dripping. Checked it every few hours for drips, signs of moisture, or any other negative signs. It is now 33 hours straight and no sign of a drip. I know now it won't be that bad to cut the pipe and replace this area, which I will do if needed. But for now, IT'S WORKING! Thank you all again for the assistance, with this issue, I could not have done it without you all.

[phillrodrigo]

I always use clear primer on my aquarium. It looks so much better. Primer just keep going around until the pipe is clean. Glue the fitting and the pipe put it on with a half a turn twist into were you want it.

[wesgentry]

i would have been freaking out...

[johnnynatfan]

Get a flat head screwdriver and a hammer. Place the tip of the screwdriver on the nut and tap it with the hammer. This will make the nut spin. It's a common trick in the construction trade and I've used it on my bulkhead. No leaks.

[DasCamel]

If its a very slow drip, salt creep will eventually seal it.

[Praben]

i would have been freaking out...

That was the initial emotion, they went like this: Freaking out how do I fix this, to confusion, to anger, to calm and confident I got this, to anger again, to depression, to confident I got this again, to confusion, back to depression, and I was too tired in the end to experience joy.

[kegogut]

You can get a product from Lowe's called GOOP Adhesive/Sealant should work for you.

[bricksheethouse]

use a large flat head screw driver, gently.

[Big_Boss_77]

Not sure if you can find them any more, but Lowe's used to carry what (I believe) was called a strap wrench. You'd feed it around the pipe fitting and then back to a wratcheting piece on the handle. I've used them to get into some pretty tight spaces, but be warned, they are cumbersome. One turn then you have to loosen and reset. Good luck!

[JMorris271]

I always use clear primer on my aquarium. It looks so much better. Primer just keep going around until the pipe is clean. Glue the fitting and the pipe put it on with a half a turn twist into were you want it.

Is hat the Otie yellow can?

[JMorris271]

I would use a Basin wrench. It goes up under a ink to reach the nut up under the faucet

[JMorris271]

Not sure if you can find them any more, but Lowe's used to carry what (I believe) was called a strap wrench. You'd feed it around the pipe fitting and then back to a wratcheting piece on the handle. I've used them to get into some pretty tight spaces, but be warned, they are cumbersome. One turn then you have to loosen and reset. Good luck!

Yep. They still have them.I use them often. You have to have a really firm full range grip to accomplish anything.

[Big_Boss_77]

Yep. They still have them.I use them often. You have to have a really firm full range grip to accomplish anything.
Ha ha ha yup, file that under the cumbersome warning