Slip vs threaded fittings

[E.Rude]

I plan on using slip X thread bulkheads, with the threaded end under the aquarium, just because of the way my plumbing scheme works, if I were to glue the plumbing into the bottom of the bulkhead, I wouldn't be able to remove the bulkhead nut w/o cutting the plumbing.

My question is in regard to a spears gate valve on the overflow plumbing. What would be a better option, slip or thread? If I use a slip gave valve, I would put a union on each side.

Also, while I have your attention, if using threaded fittings do you guys prefer teflon tape or rectorseal teflon thread sealant?

[uncleof6]

I plan on using slip X thread bulkheads, with the threaded end under the aquarium, just because of the way my plumbing scheme works, if I were to glue the plumbing into the bottom of the bulkhead, I wouldn't be able to remove the bulkhead nut w/o cutting the plumbing.

My question is in regard to a spears gate valve on the overflow plumbing. What would be a better option, slip or thread? If I use a slip gave valve, I would put a union on each side.

Also, while I have your attention, if using threaded fittings do you guys prefer teflon tape or rectorseal teflon thread sealant?

Slip is always going to be a better option. Even with your bulkheads. There is only one reason you will need to remove the bulkheads, and that would be to take the tank apart for whatever reason, and a hacksaw will do the job handily, and will allow reuse of the bulkheads. You won't be removing the bulkheads with the tank running.... ;)

Why would you want unions around the valves? Good valves are serviceable insitu (without removal) so there really isn't a reason to remove them, unless tearing down the tank, and again a hacksaw works good, and the valves are reusable.

The point is threaded fittings and unions are just leaks waiting to happen. Unions are simply an abused item. You need two unions both at the pump, so you can get the pump out.

Tape or non-hardening thread sealant is not a matter of preference. It is made fairly clear by the fitting manufacturers that tape should not be used for plastic (PVC) threaded fittings. Tape is for iron pipe (and similar) to prevent thread galling. Such a condition does not occur with plastic fittings.

For pvc threads you need to use a non-hardening thread sealant, from Rectorseal, this is the one you want to use:

http://www.rectorseal.com/index.php/rectorseal-t-plus-2/

Spears also markets a thread sealant product that is suitable for the purpose.

Something labeled 'teflon thread sealant' may or may not be what you want.

Also, do not mix sch80 and sch40 threaded fittings. For further information on this topic, it can be found on the Lasco website.

[E.Rude]

Uncleof6: thank you for your detailed and informative response. Now that you mention it, I never took the plumbing apart on my last tank, except to break the tank down. Would you suggest gluing the standpipes, too? Gluing both sides just seems like a nightmare should something need changed...but then again, I don't reckon I'd be changing plumbing schemes all that often.

[uncleof6]

I plan on using slip X thread bulkheads, with the threaded end under the aquarium, just because of the way my plumbing scheme works, if I were to glue the plumbing into the bottom of the bulkhead, I wouldn't be able to remove the bulkhead nut w/o cutting the plumbing.

My question is in regard to a spears gate valve on the overflow plumbing. What would be a better option, slip or thread? If I use a slip gave valve, I would put a union on each side.

Also, while I have your attention, if using threaded fittings do you guys prefer teflon tape or rectorseal teflon thread sealant?

Slip is always going to be a better option. Even with your bulkheads. There is only one reason you will need to remove the bulkheads, and that would be to take the tank apart for whatever reason, and a hacksaw will do the job handily, and will allow reuse of the bulkheads. You won't be removing the bulkheads with the tank running.... ;)

Why would you want unions around the valves? Good valves are serviceable insitu (without removal) so there really isn't a reason to remove them, unless tearing down the tank, and again a hacksaw works good, and the valves are reusable.

The point is threaded fittings and unions are just leaks waiting to happen. Unions are simply an abused item. You need two unions both at the pump, so you can get the pump out.

Tape or non-hardening thread sealant is not a matter of preference. It is made fairly clear by the fitting manufacturers that tape should not be used for plastic (PVC) threaded fittings. Tape is for iron pipe (and similar) to prevent thread galling. Such a condition does not occur with plastic fittings.

For pvc threads you need to use a non-hardening thread sealant, from Rectorseal, this is the one you want to use:

http://www.rectorseal.com/index.php/rectorseal-t-plus-2/

Spears also markets a thread sealant product that is suitable for the purpose.

Something labeled 'teflon thread sealant' may or may not be what you want.

Also, do not mix sch80 and sch40 threaded fittings. For further information on this topic, it can be found on the Lasco website.

[ca1ore]

I plan on using slip X thread bulkheads, with the threaded end under the aquarium, just because of the way my plumbing scheme works, if I were to glue the plumbing into the bottom of the bulkhead, I wouldn't be able to remove the bulkhead nut w/o cutting the plumbing.

I always go with slip x slip. Bulkheads are cheap; and how often do you break down the plumbing anyhow?

My question is in regard to a spears gate valve on the overflow plumbing. What would be a better option, slip or thread? If I use a slip gave valve, I would put a union on each side.

Gate valves, on the other hand, are not cheap, so I always buy one that is threaded. I also try to position it over my sump so that if the threads drip at all, they do so into the sump.

Also, while I have your attention, if using threaded fittings do you guys prefer teflon tape or rectorseal teflon thread sealant?

Well, as already noted tape is not intended for plastic fittings - was news to me (not a professional plumber) as I had been using it for decades. I have cracked more than my fair share of female fittings, though :(, so although I do try to use slip, when I do need a threaded fitting, I now use thread sealant.

[E.Rude]

Thanks ca1ore! I guess I just have to step out of my comfort zone a bit on this build.

As far as gluing the standpipes? I'm assuming I should glue them as well so the overflows don't drain down past the standpipes in the event that there is a small leak @ the bulkhead?

[RocketEngineer]

Thanks ca1ore! I guess I just have to step out of my comfort zone a bit on this build.

As far as gluing the standpipes? I'm assuming I should glue them as well so the overflows don't drain down past the standpipes in the event that there is a small leak @ the bulkhead?

I'm glad I didn't. It would have been impossible to remove a snail shell from the siphon stand pipe if I had glued them into the bulkhead. Draining the overflow box through the plumbing isn't enough to flood my sump. Your mileage may vary.

[phillrodrigo]

You can not glue the stand pipe it's fine. I forgot to glue fittings and did my leak test for a week and it never leaked. I only found it when I moved the tank some how I noticed it. I prefer slip. I come from a family of plumber's so it's nothing new to me. I would go to a plumbing supply they usually carry more than Lowes or home depot. I would also use clear primer. If your not experienced you will make a mess. Nothing worse than seeing purple drip down the pipe. Using a chop saw is the best way to cut pvc but most don't have access so either a pvc saw or a cutter works. When you primer shake the brush off into the can hold the side your priming to the ground so if it drips it doesn't go down the pipe. Go around the pipe till its nice and clean then do the fitting. When gluing do the same push the pipe into the fitting with a half turn so it goes fully into the fitting. A good method is to dry fit the whole thing without gluing. Mark all the fitting and piping so when you glue make those lines match up and it will line up on the tank. Keep checking to make sure things line up as your going. The primer and glue will make the pipe go deeper into the fitting than without so don't end up short at the end some were

[ca1ore]

I don't glue in the standpipes either. Just push them into the bulkhead flange firmly and they don't seem to leak. Key, as noted, is to make sure should they drip, that your sump is big enough to hold the extra water.

[E.Rude]

Thanks guys. I really appreciate you helping me on this. I had my 125 plumbed two different ways: once with two g-holes 700gph overflows, then I had a C2C w/ external BeanAnimal. I want this tank to be more finished so to speak. I'm having a little trouble with the plumbing.

I was told that a short horizontal run would not be a big deal on a BeanAnimal, but I'm reading on another thread that it's a no-no...

[uncleof6]

Thanks guys. I really appreciate you helping me on this. I had my 125 plumbed two different ways: once with two g-holes 700gph overflows, then I had a C2C w/ external BeanAnimal. I want this tank to be more finished so to speak. I'm having a little trouble with the plumbing.

I was told that a short horizontal run would not be a big deal on a BeanAnimal, but I'm reading on another thread that it's a no-no...

Drain lines should be kept angled down, with 45° being ideal if cannot go straight down. There is also a bit of misinterpretation of the definition of horizontal. Prudent advice is just avoid going dead horizontal, even if some will say a short horizontal will not cause an issue. There are many variables at work here, and what is good for the goose, isn't necessarily going to be good for the gander.

[E.Rude]

Drain lines should be kept angled down, with 45° being ideal if cannot go straight down. There is also a bit of misinterpretation of the definition of horizontal. Prudent advice is just avoid going dead horizontal, even if some will say a short horizontal will not cause an issue. There are many variables at work here, and what is good for the goose, isn't necessarily going to be good for the gander.

Thanks again for your help. I'm hoping that the full siphon and open channel can be plumbed with a 45. The emergency will most likely need a 90.

[hilgert]

I use slip on all of my bulkheads, leaving about 3 inches or so sticking out. I then use these:

This allows removal of the bulkhead if needed...they have rubber gaskets and just slip on/off easily.

http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/820633/820633976059lg.jpg

http://www.lowes.com/pd_23942-69305-511-43-34-34B_0__?productId=50160529

[JMorris271]

If I ever want to have a quick disconnect fitting ,I more often than not use a Fernco coupling. It has never failed le.

[E.Rude]

I use slip on all of my bulkheads, leaving about 3 inches or so sticking out. I then use these:

This allows removal of the bulkhead if needed...they have rubber gaskets and just slip on/off easily.

http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/820633/820633976059lg.jpg

http://www.lowes.com/pd_23942-69305-511-43-34-34B_0__?productId=50160529


I've never seen that coupling before. What makes it a better alternative to unions?

[ca1ore]

Not sure why one would use these instead of unions. More potential points of failure (doesn't mean they will fail, just more opportunity).

[hilgert]

I've never seen that coupling before. What makes it a better alternative to unions?

It's not a better alternative...just an alternative hat has a different use. It slips completely off, allowing removal of the bulkhead if necessary. It also allows for small variances in length. I would normally use unions, except on bulkheads.

I've found these to be especially useful when repairing my sprinkler lines in the yard...I always keep a few in the garage.

[hilgert]

Not sure why one would use these instead of unions. More potential points of failure (doesn't mean they will fail, just more opportunity).

Actually, I've found them very useful in situations like this (bulkheads), and where some variation in length exists. Unions must fit exactly...these have some adjustability (an inch or two). Different solutions to mostly-similar needs.

[ca1ore]

Fair enough!

[SloppyJ]

I have both on my tank right now. I prefer the slip but I needed a threaded in my case. I used the thread putty and it has worked great.

As far as the spears valve, you don't need unions after and before it. You can take it apart to clean.


Good luck!

[ryanerickson]

If you want to be able to take your gate valve apart you can get a unioned gate valve the unions are built right in and it's slip. Threaded valves blow they always eventually leek same with threaded bulkheads. The reason I put this valve in was to be able to service my return pump plus I had it sitting around.

[wolfblue]

For threads, I've used RectorSeal and it works good. But I like Whitlam Blue Magic (http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23140)better. You will too...

[sleepydoc]

I've never seen that coupling before. What makes it a better alternative to unions?

As mentioned, they allow for adjustment in length, and also have a lower profile.

IME, they are less tolerant to torque on the plumbing (but we all have our plumbing well supported, right? ;) )