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nmotz
08/01/2014, 12:03 PM
Been out of the mantis "game" for a while since moving last year, but I'm really wanting to get an O. Havanensis when I return to this most wonderful of hobbies.

Hence, I've been combing through every thread on this forum with any discussion (especially by Dr. Roy) concerning this species so I can prepare for it since it is a little trickier to keep.

In the past I've had a G. Chiragra (very old, almost 5 inches in length when purchased!), an O. Scyllarus, and a G. Smithii.

I currently have a 33G, 31L x 14W X 17H tank. I'm going to get a canister filter that is rated for at least double my tank capacity and a small internal protein skimmer. I'm switching my T5 bulbs to blue actinic. Chaeto algae for nutrient transport.

So here are a few questions (feel free to chime in Dr. Roy!):

I've read that since this animal is collected on open sand plains in Florida it's best to not put tons of LR in the tank. How much LR is too much? Ideal recommendation?

Also read that stirring up the sand bed can be fatal. Is there ever a danger of the animal "killing itself" by digging too much? If so, I guess I should avoid finer sand and go with coarse, crushed coral? I suppose vacuuming the sand bed is also ill advised since it can stir up junk?

Ideally, I would like to keep the lights off for this sensitive species but I need some chaeto algae to thrive for good nutrient export. Will blue actinic lighting be ok for the mantis AND facilitate chaeto algae growth?

Thanks!

Adetia
08/01/2014, 12:37 PM
Amount of live rock is up to you; as long as your water quality is good you can keep it to a minimum there's less places to hide.

I don't think you need to worry about them "killing themselves" they are small and don't kick up too much sand at a time. Stick with fine sand and coral rubble. Do NOT use crushed coral; it's sharp and it can cut them and it also traps phosphates/nitrates. I've never vacuumed any of my salt water tanks; that's what a CUC is for.

I don't think you'll get much chaeto growth under actinic lights. Lighting isn't as much of an issue with smaller species especially if you have good water quality. If you're using T5s you could do a mix of actinic and 10k. You still may not get too much chaeto growth though, i believe it does best under 6500.

nmotz
08/01/2014, 12:45 PM
Yeah, I did read one thread where Roy acknowledged that there were no known effects to O. Havanensis due to bright lighting, but its best to mimic their natural environment which is why I would ideally like to go blue actinic.

You mean larger coral rubble like 1/4" or greater? Does sand not trap phosphates/nitrates?

Adetia
08/01/2014, 03:37 PM
Yeah, just a bunch of small rocks/shells that they can build with, all different sizes. If you think you have enough rubble, you're probably wrong :)

Sand does but not as much, you can do a quick search on the forums about crushed coral and the problems people have had with it.

Fartin'Gary
08/01/2014, 05:32 PM
Check out these tanks. I would set it up similar to those. https://www.youtube.com/results?q=o.havanensis

nmotz
08/01/2014, 06:34 PM
Gary,

I did look at some of those videos but also don't want to just assume that everything on youtube is the best solution. I figured people on here would be more knowledgable.

The general rule is 1-2 lbs of LR per gallon and that's a lot so I'm wondering how I can get away with less. For starters I'll get a canister filter with some bio-balls or something like that I guess.

The only other thing I need to decide is whether to do fine sand or some other medium. Honestly I hadn't heard of people saying that crushed coral was dangerous, but if it is I won't use it.

Fartin'Gary
08/01/2014, 07:20 PM
Crushed coral holds detritus which leads to ammonia spikes. A mix of sand and fine crushed coral will do or just sand.

Live rock is where the bacteria live that filter the tank, the more the merrier. An appropriately sized PVC burrow with two entrances would be great. for Canister filters are a whole lot of work. Every week you need to open it and clean the filters.

I would set it up as a reef tank and for maximum water quality with as little maintenance as possible. As long as you keep the water in great shape the shrimp will be fine. It will adapt perfectly to what ever environment as long as those needs are met. Excellent water being first.

I'm sure you read this http://www.ucmp.berkeley.edu/arthropoda/crustacea/malacostraca/eumalacostraca/royslist/species.php?name=o_havanensis

Good luck and try not to be such a wienerschnitzel when people help you.

nmotz
08/02/2014, 12:03 AM
Gary,

You've made the classic mistake of assuming "tone." You read what I typed, attached whatever tone you thought I meant (in this case, one that you apparently don't like) and just ran with it. I admit sometimes it is difficult to tell exactly how someone is communicating when you can't actually hear what they say, but there certainly was no mistaking how you meant your comments. So I'll respond by reminding you not to be such a quintessential, over-assuming dick. Now can we pretty please with sugar on top get back to talking about mantis shrimp? Thanks.

I'm willing to go with whatever is best. I think I'll go with a fine crushed coral/sand mix. One of Dr. Roy's old comments said that O. Havanensis really like to build their own burrow so I probably won't use PVC this time. I'd definitely get PVC if I wanted a Peacock though.

I'd rather not get a canister filter but they are pretty efficient. I hear what you're saying about work though. I don't know, I just want the water quality to be really good.

Fartin'Gary
08/02/2014, 10:35 AM
Whatever krout.

nmotz
08/04/2014, 02:10 PM
I'm thinking about setting up a 55G tank. On my budget it'll take quite some time to get all the pieces together, but I look at this size tank as being what will be good for the future.

If I stuck with a 30-40G, I would probably at some point want to go a little bigger, but I definitely do NOT want to take care of a tank that's too big.

I'm slowly stockpiling equipment. Has anyone else noticed how hard it is to find long aquariums? Many of us prefer them for our mantids but most tanks out there are too tall for my liking. I want a large footprint, not a tall column of water.

Any equipment recommendations for a 55G?

nmotz
08/15/2014, 01:17 PM
After careful consideration, and more importantly, disussing things with Dr. Caldwell, I've decided on a set-up for an O. Havanensis. I won't be purchasing the mantis until next spring ("job complications") and I'll be moving only a year after that, so I'm not going to get a big tank and go all out just yet. I am, however, going to get some nicer equipment.

I'll start with a 20 long aquarium from PetSmart (approx 30in x 12in x 12in). It'll have an Aqueon hood with basic T5 lighting. My plan will be to keep that light off unless I'm watching him and set up some kind of mini/hang-on refugium with a desktop light to grow chaeto.

I have a HOB filter rated for 50 gallons, and I'm getting the Aquamaxx HOB XC protein skimmer, which is rated for 120 gallons. I also have two small Hydor Koralia powerheads in case I need some extra flow since Roy said that his O.H.'s do well with lots of water movement. I'll also get a new RO/DI unit and have an automated timer and ATO system ready to use so I can control the salinity more effectively.

My substrate will be just under one inch deep and will be a mix of fine Aragonite sand and shell/crushed coral pieces ranging in size from 1-1.5 cm.

I have a new MarinePure biological media device that will go in my HOB filter, and I'm going to throw in about 15 pounds of LR. Most of this will be crushed into small pieces. I'm going to set up the LR like Roy told me so the mantis has an easier time making a burrow. I'll test out my plan for biological filtration carefully before buying the mantis. I may need a few more sources for nitrate reducing bacteria to colonize. According to my readings on this forum and elsewhere it is thought that most denitrification (nitrate being converted to gas) is accomplished deeper inside LR or other devices. The chaeto should help some too of course. Every tank is slightly different in how the nitrogen cycle works out so I'll test it extensively and make modifications to the bio filter plan as necessary.

As soon as I get started, I'll post pics. I'm getting my first batch of equipment in the mail this weekend (heater, filter media, substrate, test kit, etc..)