Would This Stand Hold a 220 Gallon Aquarium Safely?

[slevytam]

Hello all,

I'm about to start on a diy aquarium stand project and am just looking for some feedback to make sure my design would safely be able to handle a 220 gallon 72x24x30 tank.

Basically just using 2x4s with pocket screws and glue. I'll cover the outside with 3/4 plywood or something. One thing that is perhaps different from most is that I'd like the tank to sit high, about 43-inches off the ground.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

[rwb500]

looks good, especially if you firmly attach the 3/4" ply skin so that it provides support against racking.

[slevytam]

Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. Could you explain racking?

[Tomtopping]

I have same stand build from 2x6

[slevytam]

I originally wanted to use 2x6s but it really made the openings for the three doors much smaller. (tall and narrow).

I think I read on here (via RocketEngineer) that a single vertical 2x4 should be able to hold 19000 lbs. Hopefully, that's right. So I guess the key is making sure it doesn't move left/right, front/back.

I also looked at the Monterey stand and from photos it seems like they are using 1 inch boards!

[vpaul79]

Racking is in reference to the integrity against horizontal forces. Your design is certainly more than suitable for vertical/downward force. Would the stand hold if you pushed a filled tank.

[MidwesternTexan]

Yes, agree with all.

Just make sure the weight is loaded thru the boards, not thru fasteners holding boards to boards. RE's basic design does in fact put all the load thru the boards.

ON my current 180 build- that's up and runnuing for 2 months today,
my outer skins (not even on the stand yet) will not be 'anti racking'.
But I do have some beefy corner braces to provide 'anti-racking'.

Here it is during the build- the back is facing up in the pic.
I am currently using this stand, painted white- latex- working great.

http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/uu302/TexasTodd_photo/null_zpsbf9e36f9.jpg (http://s658.photobucket.com/user/TexasTodd_photo/media/null_zpsbf9e36f9.jpg.html)

[rockslide123]

This design is more than sufficent just don't rely on screws exclusively. Glue all the joints with a water proof adhesive Titebond III is a good choice.

[reefermad619]

If seen this built with a single 2x4 brace in the front and back. Leaving 2 big openings in front and back. I personally would do it like you have planned. Makes it easier for doors. My stand is built the same way except mine is 86"x32"x~42". Anything bigger than a 2x4 is subject to cupping. I've bought 2x6s and left them In the garage for 2 weeks and they had starting cuping. That's why I try to use only 2x4s. GL and post pics when it's done.

[Jodah]

overkill, but more than sufficient. :-)

[tkeracer619]

You guys would laugh or cringe so I won't post the pic but... you have more there then I have on my 360. Especially if you skin it. Wood is incredibly strong if you put it together properly.

when we talk about racking we are reffering to a twisting force. Tanks don't need to be level but they need to be in plane. If the tank/stand twists its dun fer.

[slevytam]

Thanks for the replies. I am feeling a bit more confident!

I think I may add a three pieces half way up the back to stabilize any left/right shift. I know it's probably overkill but I'm not sure of the best way to prevent racking

[tkeracer619]

Skinning the stand is the best way. The top of the stand needs to be flat. If it isn't then sand it until it is.

Also keep in mind the strongest part of your stand is the tank. The vertical panes take the load and distribute it. The only part of the stand to take load is the vertical supports. The horizontal beam takes very little loading. How you have it drawn is correct.

Shim the bottom of the stand under the vertical supports.

[slevytam]

Thanks again for help. I'm nearly ready to start. Two last questions.

Is there any harm in putting a sheet of 3/4 plywood underneath the structure? I like symmetry and having a sheet on top and not at the bottom throws the vertical symmetry off.

The other more important question pertains to using 1/2 inch condensed foam. I'd ask this question later but the height of the lip around the tank depends on whether or not I use it. I called Marineland (where my tank is from). They said not to use it, citing stress points. Do you concur?

I'll start a separate thread for documenting the build once I get started.

Thanks!

[tkeracer619]

A marineland tank with a rim around the bottom does not use foam.
No harm with the ply on bottom and top.

[viggen]

yea looks great!

If you want a little more room under the stand you can always rotate the two middle cross braces on the ground and under the tank so they are parallel with the ground/tank. This would give a few more inches of room under there for your filtration and not weaken the stand at all. It might actually make it more rigid??

Or you could put a sheet of plywood on the bottom and top and eliminate those braces all together.

That is assuming your tank is glass?

[slevytam]

Yes, my tank is glass. I've decided to do the braces and plywood so this should be very very strong.

I'm about to start a new post for the build; however, there is one last question I thought of. My floor is for sure slightly slanted down. ie water level is higher at the back of the tank than the front. For my 112g tank, I just used about 20-30 wood shims spread out across the front of the tank. This worked perfectly; however, I don't know if it is the best solution for a 220g tank. Is there any better way of leveling out the tank?

Thanks again!

[woodnaquanut]

Shimz is the way!

Edit:

I assume you mean the floor is not level so you are leveling the stand. From the text it's not clear you leveled the stand not the tank on the 112g.

[Flippers4pups]

I used self leveling 2 part epoxy on my top to take up a small amount, around 1/16th of an inch. Best bar top epoxy. Works very well. Beananimal did it too. Search his threads.

[Sonymon]

slevytam,

You may want to consider using 4x4's for the posts in the structure. If you do this you can get away with 6 posts via 8. Its not too much more expensive but it will allow for larger cabinets below. Also make sure to use screws that are at least galvanized preferably. Another amazing thing are galvanized stud brackets for 2x4's they add a ton of strength.

One question though is the tank drilled?

[jayball]

4x4 have been denounced on stand build threads because they warp and split. Cross bolted 2x4's would probably be a better option if that kind of support is necessary.