Explain "flashing" in a wrasse

[mpderksen]

Reading Snorvish's thread I see a lot about adding a female with a male flasher wrasse to make it flash. Does this just mean to keep a bright color? I assume it's not like a Pink Floyd concert...

[Nina51]

well, it sorta is. "flashing" means when the male shows off by spreading his fins wide and darting around the tank. i have a yellow fin flasher wrasse and a red velvet fairy wrasse, both males. no females. they still show off. the flasher flashes and the fairy wrasse will spread his fins out and glide around the tank. both beautiful but the flasher is, well, flashy! :)

[mpderksen]

well, it sorta is. "flashing" means when the male shows off by spreading his fins wide and darting around the tank. i have a yellow fin flasher wrasse and a red velvet fairy wrasse, both males. no females. they still show off. the flasher flashes and the fairy wrasse will spread his fins out and glide around the tank. both beautiful but the flasher is, well, flashy! :)

They are jumpers, right? I have room in the tank (if the maroon and the Kole will allow it) and these spud really appealing.

[Nina51]

every fish is capable of jumping but wrasses are especially prone to it. a tight fitting lid (i prefer screen) is a must if you want to keep any wrasses!

not sure about how your other fish will react but if i were you, i'd run it by steve (snorvich) in his sticky thread in the "new to hobby" forum.

wrasses are quickly becoming my favorite fish!

[eatbreakfast]

The maroon clown might take issue with the wrasse if the tank is less than 50g.

I also have found adding a female to be futile, as sourcing females is difficult, and they usually transition to male anyway. I recommend just getting a male of another species as they will flash and display at one another.

Flashing is a social display. A way to impress females and intimidate rivals. Flaring fins, intensifying colors and acrobatic swimming displays are all part of it.

A 1/4" mesh screen top is a must.

[snorvich]

The maroon clown might take issue with the wrasse if the tank is less than 50g.

I also have found adding a female to be futile, as sourcing females is difficult, and they usually transition to male anyway. I recommend just getting a male of another species as they will flash and display at one another.

Flashing is a social display. A way to impress females and intimidate rivals. Flaring fins, intensifying colors and acrobatic swimming displays are all part of it.

A 1/4" mesh screen top is a must.

I agree with all of the above. A mature maroon clown will take issue with any new addition that encroaches on the fifty gallons of tank space the it thinks it owns.

[usingthejohn]

wrasses are quickly becoming my favorite fish!

This is so true.

I currently have 22 fish in my tank. The only non-wrasses are the moorish idol, longnose hawkfish and naso tang hahaha

[mpderksen]

I agree with all of the above. A mature maroon clown will take issue with any new addition that encroaches on the fifty gallons of tank space the it thinks it owns.

The tank is a 75, currently with the following:
Maroon clown (3", so not sure if that is "mature" but I would guess so, she is about 3 years old)
2 spotted Cardialfish
Dwarf flame angel
Kole tang
Blue-Green chromis
One-Spot foxface

The tank is over a year mature, and stable with 2-part and regular water changes. It's been 4 months since anything new, other than a few corals.

My QT will not be available for another 6 weeks, since I am getting my first stock for my 25gal on Tuesday.

Since Steve doesn't provide stocking recommendations in the compatibility thread, I'll ask here. Which 2 wrasses would be a decent addition?

[eatbreakfast]

Just about anything in the Genera of Cirrhilabrus, Paracheilinus, and most of Halichoeres will be fine, nust pick something you like.

[woodnaquanut]

wrasses are especially prone to it. a tight fitting lid (i prefer screen) is a must if you want to keep any wrasses!


Sorry for the derail...

I've never kept wrasses and my question is about the term 'tight fitting'. I currently have screens made of the 1/4" mesh and Al frames (Home Depot). They are just sitting on the tanks eurobrace. They completely cover the openings. Is that enough to keep the jumpers in or do they need to be attached in some way?

[Flippers4pups]

Sorry for the derail...

I've never kept wrasses and my question is about the term 'tight fitting'. I currently have screens made of the 1/4" mesh and Al frames (Home Depot). They are just sitting on the tanks eurobrace. They completely cover the openings. Is that enough to keep the jumpers in or do they need to be attached in some way?

"Tight fitting" is referring to no gaps. Especially wrasses, they can find the smallest opening and bam, carpet surf. I even double up the 1/4 mesh just for this reason. No attaching the frame. The weight of the frame and mesh should keep them in.

[mpderksen]

So digging around, I think I would like one each of:
Red Head Solon Fairy Wrasse
Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse

Would these two work together and "flash" without killing each other?
I'm also concerned that my Kole Tang and Maroon may kill them. Is it impossible to tell in advance and you just go for it?

[Rutrag]

So digging around, I think I would like one each of:
Red Head Solon Fairy Wrasse
Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse

Would these two work together and "flash" without killing each other?
I'm also concerned that my Kole Tang and Maroon may kill them. Is it impossible to tell in advance and you just go for it?


I would invest in an acclimation box. The joke probably won't care, but clowns, especially maroons, are very territorial. With an acclimation box, the clown will see the wrasse, but no be able to get to him. She might burn her aggression out while the wrasse is in the box for a day or so and give the wrasse a chance.

[mpderksen]

I would invest in an acclimation box. The joke probably won't care, but clowns, especially maroons, are very territorial. With an acclimation box, the clown will see the wrasse, but no be able to get to him. She might burn her aggression out while the wrasse is in the box for a day or so and give the wrasse a chance.

Good call. I'm pretty good with acrylic and could easily make one. No room in the QT, so I won't order them until the current set is done. I could easily make a box for each of them so they aren't fin-to-fin. Should probably introduce them at the same time, or a few days apart?

[Rutrag]

I'd introduce the Carpenter's first, as they are generally smaller and less aggressive. I would also definitely wait to QT the wrasses as they often carry internal parasites that can be treated with Prazi-Pro.

[evolved]

Sorry for the derail...

I've never kept wrasses and my question is about the term 'tight fitting'. I currently have screens made of the 1/4" mesh and Al frames (Home Depot). They are just sitting on the tanks eurobrace. They completely cover the openings. Is that enough to keep the jumpers in or do they need to be attached in some way?
It'll keep them in on the first jump. The concern lies in the second jump, if the covers were moved away during the first jump. It's happened to some. Anything you could do to weigh them down or prevent them from being moved from a jump would do the trick.

[Nina51]

"Tight fitting" is referring to no gaps.

agree. i don't have anything weighing them down. i got the kits from brs.

I would invest in an acclimation box.

definitely this!! i don't know about your clown but my kole tang is fine with the wrasses. for a while after i added the fairy wrasse, my kole tang sorta partnered up with him, swimming together often.

[mpderksen]

It'll keep them in on the first jump. The concern lies in the second jump, if the covers were moved away during the first jump. It's happened to some. Anything you could do to weigh them down or prevent them from being moved from a jump would do the trick.

Cool. I think a small piece of sticky Velcro could keep it from shifting.