glass-holes overflow kit

[jkaese]

I have a question regarding these kits, I have a 1500 gph overflow, it came with the ultra flex tube for the drain lines which fit into the elbows that connect to the bulkhead- question is do you use pVC cement to secure them into the elbows? The line is thick heavy duty but i am concerned about leaks since its not threaded.

[jkaese]

I have been trying to get a hold of glass-holes for 2 weeks with no response at all.

[breadfan]

I first glued my ultra flex into the elbows with the blue 'wet use' pvc cement and had leaks from both connections. I replaced the elbows and reglued the flex with regular clear pvc primer and cement. I also skuffed the flex with sandpaper and used more cement that I do on regular pvc. The bond seems very strong and not a single drip. A pipe clamp nailed to the back of the stand with help support the weight of the pipe.

[jkaese]

Anyone else have issues, I was just going to use regular PVC cement and purple primer

[uncleof6]

Your methods will only work if the "ultra flex" is pvc... question mark... Also, if this is pvc, aka spa-flex, flexible pvc, what have you, do not, repeat DO NOT use primer. It is not recommended for use anywhere near spa-flex (regardless of the name given it by anyone.) It does make a sloppy gooey mess out of spa-flex. Primer is never required for hard pvc pipe, but it is optional. Spa-flex is specifically a no primer zone.

[jkaese]

Ok it is ultraflex PVC but now I am confused, I am pretty sure the instructions says to use primer and
Cement. Dose anyone have this kit that comes with the flex.line, its called the in and out kit 1500ghp

[morleyz]

I'm pretty sure that you're still supposed to use primer with Ultraflex and spaflex. You should find a cement that is specifically compatible. The typical recommendation is weldon 795. You work with it the same as you would rigid, although I find after inserting the flex pipe into a joint, it tries to push back out, so you need to hold it in place a good 30 seconds or so.

[uncleof6]

I will say it again: Do not use primer on spa-flex, or anything that is the same thing as spa-flex. (flexible pvc.) It does not matter what a dealer or intermediary calls it, it is still spa flex. I am a stickler for reading instructions, but when the instructions are wrong, they are wrong.

Flexible pvc has a great deal more plasticizers in it making it flexible, unlike rigid pvc pipe, and primer will turn it into a mess and—will make the joint weaker. Also you need to use a heavy bodied solvent cement which will make for a much stronger join, due to the higher percentage of solids. I have never, and will never recommend the "blue type" solvent cements. There are right ways to do things, and wrong ways to do things, and the "wrongs" far outnumber the "rights."

You do not need to use anything more than the heavy bodied solvent cement to have a strong "premenant" join. There is a great deal of myth informaton around concerning the use of primer. First, on the cans of Otay Cement, they state "use primer IF required." Otay, lead the fight for legislation to require the use of primer, (because they could not sell it.) However the plumbing codes only require primer on 4" pipe or larger. (can vary from jurisdiction to jurisdiction.)

Our systems do not run enough pressure, for primer to really show any advantage over proper solvent welding technique, and even if you do use primer, if you do not use proper solvent welding technique, the join is going to leak/come apart. E.G. primer is NOT required for our uses, and most other uses as well. The only time primer is going to "shine" is if you are welding pipe that has been underground for a year or so... e.g. it is for those that are in too much of a hurry to do it right, and even then you still have to do it right...

If one is inclined to believe the myths and marketing hype, use primer: but not on the spa-flex. On the fitting only...

[Thunderfan]

I have done allot of plumbing and rarely use primer. I have never had any issues.