PDA

View Full Version : wireless door bell switch?


mc-cro
01/02/2015, 12:05 PM
I want to use a door bell behind the display tank to activate a feed cycle.

my breakout box is in the basement, and a major PIA to run wires from up stairs to down stairs (again).

Is there some way to use a wireless doorbell switch? It may be a bigger project than just fishing the wire through the duct work and walls again, but figure I would ask if there was a simple solution I was overlooking.

The simplest solution is ofcourse Fusion, but it never fails I either forget, or dont have my phone handy, or the webpage has timed out and I have to login again.

a button is so much quicker and easier

slief
01/02/2015, 05:45 PM
I've never messed with wireless doorbell switches but I don't think that will work since they would be powered on the receiver side in order to trigger the bell. The breakout box uses open closed switches. As such, your best bet may be to fish the wire and just use a garage door opener button as they are momentary open/close.

That said, I just got into a discussion about triggering feed timers via a switch for a thawed frozen food feeder that I have been implementing and unfortunately, it isn't easy to do that. You will likely need to use a combination of virtual outlets and profiles to do what you want as opposed to the feed timer.

kurt_n
01/02/2015, 10:20 PM
...
That said, I just got into a discussion about triggering feed timers via a switch for a thawed frozen food feeder that I have been implementing and unfortunately, it isn't easy to do that. You will likely need to use a combination of virtual outlets and profiles to do what you want as opposed to the feed timer.

Yup... you can't trigger an actual "feed cycle" via programming - it has to be triggered from the display, the app, or I'm assuming Fusion (don't use it - can't say.) You can trigger a virtual outlet (or a physical one) through an input from the breakout box, but that's all you can do. Granted, you can make those virtual outlets do some complex things, and you could probably end up with something that turns certain equipment on/off like a feed cycle. But if you're looking to actually use the built-in Feed Cycles... it's not possible through the breakout box.

[Edit: Here's something along the line of what you're wanting to do, I think...

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2102572 ]

slief
01/02/2015, 11:41 PM
Yup... you can't trigger an actual "feed cycle" via programming - it has to be triggered from the display, the app, or I'm assuming Fusion (don't use it - can't say.) You can trigger a virtual outlet (or a physical one) through an input from the breakout box, but that's all you can do. Granted, you can make those virtual outlets do some complex things, and you could probably end up with something that turns certain equipment on/off like a feed cycle. But if you're looking to actually use the built-in Feed Cycles... it's not possible through the breakout box.

[Edit: Here's something along the line of what you're wanting to do, I think...

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2102572 ]

Just the person that educated me on it! Thank you again for the help! I greatly appreciate it! You just inadvertently helped me again. Normally I rely on the native browser. Up until you mentioned it, I completely forgot I could trigger the feed timers from the native apex web interface and Fusion. That solves my extra feeding while on the road dilemma. In the 5 or so years that I've had my Apex, it's only in recent months that I've used any of my feed timers. I can't believe I forgot about that.

Thank you again! :beer:

aleithol
01/03/2015, 06:50 AM
OP, I have two physical buttons on my tank cabinet that are each connected to a BOB. My Apex then picks up when either button is pressed for a brief second, and via VOs, I create my own feed cycles with each. Right now, one keeps the return/powerheads off a little longer than the other and has slightly different flow for when I feed different foods, but I've also easily triggered my AFS to go off when a button was pressed as well.

I see no reason why you couldn't do the same thing IF you first can find a wireless doorbell button that would have a receiver for the side near your BOB that can interface and provide the required closed contact the BoB could pick up. That, to me is your greatest challenge. BoB info and examples of non-wireless switches that do work are in the CRM (http://www.neptunesystems.com/downloads/docs/Comprehensive_Reference_Manual.pdf) starting on p108.

While some people try to connect the standard Feed cycles with physical buttons, as the guys have said, it's really not possible. I found it just a lot simpler to create my own feed cycles with VOs. The CRM section above provides examples and there are many, many more over on Neptune Systems Community forums (that's where I stole all my ideas from). Besides pressing buttons, my implementation allows me to manually trigger feeding by temporarily flipping one of my feed timers ON then back to AUTO from any dashboard including Fusion, as well as if I want to change the durations things stay off or in a special flow arrangement, it's rapidly edited in my code vs having to pull up the Misc Setup page in the native/classic dashboard to tweak the delay parameter. Should you want to look through my programming, you can always view the latest version running on my Apex via Reeftronics.net. My userid there is BertL. The code managing my dual buttons is in outlets BFeed1-Fish and BFeed2-Reef; the associated timer code is in vFeed1Tmr and vFeed2Tmr -- those are the same outlets you'll see that I test for in my return, powerheads, etc to effect flow just as one would do with Feedx.

Good luck in your pursuit!

mc-cro
01/03/2015, 08:38 AM
thanks guys. the wireless portion is my biggest challenge you are correct. As you guys have pointed out, you cant directly activate a feed cycle with BoB, but that wheel has already been invented by others. thanks again, the info provided here is exactly what I need to program it

I was hoping someone had found a way for a wireless reciever to physically close contacts on the BoB with some $20 radio shack parts.

aleithol
01/03/2015, 08:58 AM
...I was hoping someone had found a way for a wireless reciever to physically close contacts on the BoB with some $20 radio shack parts.

Suggest you go over to Neptune Systems Community forums and the BoB (https://forum.neptunesystems.com/forumdisplay.php?9-AquaBus-Modules-Probes-and-Breakout-Boxes) and DIY (https://forum.neptunesystems.com/forumdisplay.php?23-DIY) subforums. Many more people there than here (and the handful of us that try to be in both places -- slief, kurt, etc :-)) and someone may have found a solution, and can offer a wireless idea for you.

mc-cro
01/03/2015, 08:59 AM
honestly, I figured there were more here, but I will start a thread there also.

slief
01/03/2015, 09:51 AM
Something like this should work.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MSD-INC-12V-NORMALLY-CLOSED-on-off-wireless-remote-control-switch-RS30-/350738554202

Or this:
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Atis-brand-access-remote-wireless-door-opener-normally-open-normally-closed-relay-time-delay-switch/1192146_2045602086.html

mc-cro
01/03/2015, 10:20 AM
thanks, that looks like that should work well. so, I would I use the BoB as the 12v power supply? I wouldnt want to feed 12v into the box, then the output would just be tied back to the ground to complete the circuit. its normally closed, so I woudl just change the programming for an "off" condition?

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDk3WDcwMg==/z/QOoAAMXQfFJRP2~h/$T2eC16h,!)QE9s3HG-1iBRP2+gKSHg~~60_12.JPG

slief
01/03/2015, 11:27 AM
thanks, that looks like that should work well. so, I would I use the BoB as the 12v power supply? I wouldnt want to feed 12v into the box, then the output would just be tied back to the ground to complete the circuit. its normally closed, so I woudl just change the programming for an "off" condition?

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDk3WDcwMg==/z/QOoAAMXQfFJRP2~h/$T2eC16h,!)QE9s3HG-1iBRP2+gKSHg~~60_12.JPG

In hindsight, that will not work. I didn't look at the circuit diagram and that setup would end up feeding 12v into the BoB. I will look some more and see if there are any other solutions but scratch that first one.

slief
01/03/2015, 12:05 PM
My head is spinning from researching this. I think I found something that may work.. I don't think the receiver outputs any power to the two wire circuit. It's just normally open and closes with the push of a button closing the circuit. Consult the supplier to verify if it will work. It would also be simple to verify with a meter.
This is the receiver.
http://www.skylinkstore.com/store/us/us-wireless-home-control/receivers/skylinkhome-sup-small-tm-small-sup-lx-318-mini-screw-in-dimmer-1.html

Your choice of tranmitters.
http://www.skylinkstore.com/store/us/us-wireless-home-control/transmitters.html

slief
01/03/2015, 12:10 PM
You might also be able to use something like this. You can get these at Lowes and HomeDepot. The receiver has two leads to connect to the garage door motor. I would test the circuit with a meter to make sure it's just an open/close circuit with no voltage which it should be as most garage door opener buttons just close a circuit. If it's not, you could always return it.
http://www.gatehousesupplies.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1011

mc-cro
01/03/2015, 03:35 PM
wow, thank you Slief for taking the time to look at all of these things and provide me with options.

slief
01/03/2015, 06:15 PM
wow, thank you Slief for taking the time to look at all of these things and provide me with options.

Glad to help. I'm reasonably certain you could use one of the remote garage door opener setups like linked above. I have one where but it's wired to my garage and my Camaro is barricaded below it. If my Camaro was blocking my access, I'd pull it off and run a test for you. If for some reason I can get to it, I'll post back here shortly. Going to go in the garage now and see what I'm up against.

slief
01/03/2015, 06:37 PM
OK.. I just went and pulled the remote setup off one of my garage doors and tested it. It will work! No voltage passed through. Just a normally open until you hit the button. Then it goes to closed. The only issue I see is that it only remains closed for a second which may not be long enough for the Apex controller to respond. I'd suggest going to home depot or lowes and picking up one and giving it a test. You could always return it if it doesn't work.

I tested with a Lift Master/Chamberlain 620CB. The receiver plugs into a wall outlet. You would connect the two contacts into the break out box.
This is essentially the same kit (Chamberlain 955D). I tested with but virtually any universal garage remote kit should work.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_243495-38782-955D_0__?productId=3659328&Ntt=universal+garage+door+opener&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Duniversal%2Bgarage%2Bdoor%2Bopener&facetInfo=

This is the one I just tested.
http://i390.photobucket.com/albums/oo347/shleif/Tanks/image_zpscab976cb.jpg

mc-cro
01/03/2015, 06:53 PM
That's awesome! Thanks again for checking this out. Maybe I could hold the button for a second or two to ensure the apex recognizes the closed state

slief
01/03/2015, 07:08 PM
That's awesome! Thanks again for checking this out. Maybe I could hold the button for a second or two to ensure the apex recognizes the closed state

Well.. Don't get too excited.

Curiosity got the best of me and I decided to hook my universal remote up in place of my garage door opener button for my mix pump. Unfortunately, as I suspected, the circuit in the universal remote receiver doesn't stay closed long enough to trigger the Apex. At least with this particular universal remote. Even when I held the button on the remote, the receiver only closes the circuit for a split second. I'd still say it would be worth testing other universal remote setups but this particular Chamberlain model will not work. Perhaps a different universal remote will keep the circuit closed when you hold the button.

mc-cro
01/03/2015, 07:27 PM
well darn, but again thanks for all your help. I am starting to think I may be easier (and cheaper) to just figure out a way to fish the wires down the wall cavity and through the retun ducts again.

slief
01/03/2015, 07:41 PM
well darn, but again thanks for all your help. I am starting to think I may be easier (and cheaper) to just figure out a way to fish the wires down the wall cavity and through the retun ducts again.

Glad to help. Had it worked, it could have been interesting as a 3 button remote could have yielded a bunch of possibilities. If nothing else, running the wire will save you the headache of running back and forth to HD or Lowes to return something that probably wouldn't have worked. It's a shame too because I could have been tempted to implement the 3 button one if worked. I may run to HD or Lowes tomorrow and pick a different one up to do more testing. If I end up with positive results, I will let you know.

That said, as much of a pain as it may be running the wires, it will likely save you headache down the line and since it sounds like you have already run wires once, I'm sure it will be easier the second time around.

mc-cro
01/03/2015, 08:09 PM
yeah, lots of possibilities with mulitple buttons. for sure let us know if you find one that works.