walkeryan
01/05/2015, 09:31 AM
I recently purchased a 120 Gallon complete setup off craigslist that I upgraded to from my 55. The sump that came with it was only 20 gallons which is way to small for the tank and it had a crack where the bulkhead was drilled, so I decided to make my own. I've always wanted to do a refugium but never had the ability to add one to the 55 due to the lack of space. I decided to create a sump with a built in Refugium but when looking online discovered that they need a different flow than the rest of the sump. This got me thinking. I came up with a design to split the Sump into two compartments lengthwise, and split my overflow between the two so I can control the flow with some ball valves.
I started with the return chamber that would be shared between the two sides. I used acrylic for the baffles, I know, shame on me with a glass tank, but I left the required amount of space to account for water absorbing expansion. I used plastic shims for spacing and holding in place.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/NDLTzLQNRj_IyA5NTwQYIRuak7Tju9S5rRR-CfMKk5_BD5gZgIpuU0788tIv_sQvyREJpDLhwsE=w1158-h566
Then I added the bubble wall with one inch spacing.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/aD07qHN69ybyiOe1hOq_fb-tWNlIlf0NTeGUyyI6aAjlXr25KJoD2tx0EYqf_hXDmkiCZ32TvEU=w1158-h566
Now was time for the exciting part. Dividing the sump! I ordered a piece of 24" x 24" black acrylic from amazon to prevent light bleeding into the rest of the sump from the Refugium. I measured the height I wanted the dividing wall, and 16 inches was perfect, so if for any reason it overflowed it would go into the other side and not out of the tank. I then cut the side baffle 1/2 inch shorter, so when it overflowed it would only go out that side into the bubble wall.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RStapBjH8pwcqwtI3ST3WQtUhpau8dSAjPOF1mn4V01fq4v7dCne_k69sfl1ivqfdF0_4zQRkpw=w1158-h490
Next it was time to put in the last baffle for the Skimmer side. I decided to try to make a sliding wall similar to the Aqueon products which turned out pretty well other than one side cracking when trying to slot the acrylic. I'll redo it at a later date, but it doesn't affect the final outcome. I cut the acrylic into a U shape and then turned the piece I cut out 90 degrees and used it for the adjustable wall minimizing waste.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/lkyNSjVmhTczMy_6tduUGMH0YensQ0C3D9e5DgW0EGPIU1E7e6P6PnsCphT9YdHxbXfy8ZW5gm8=w1158-h490
I also wanted to add some type of filter media, so filter socks seemed to be my best option. I created a mount for them to sit before the skimmer running parallel. I knew it would be quieter if I plumbed the water to the bottom of a chamber and then had it overflowing into the socks instead of directly into the socks. This eliminated the splashing noise and forcing the air bubbles from the overflow into the socks, with it also making it very easy to change the socks. This lessens the "nitrifying" effect of a wet dry filter, not forcing bubbles through the socks. I measured and cut the piece of acrylic and heated and bent it into a "Z" shape seen in the picture below. I used a Dremel and cut two holes at 3 3/4 inches in diameter to accommodate 4in filter socks.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/z0ctthYlHjKNNSZviJPGpsor1nQXj8SJ8-BJqEWj8EL56ZJIIqp9apRH7B72CiJOJwptP3D-Qjo=w1158-h490
Yes, I know I went a little heavy on the Silicon but the reason was the piece came loose while drying and started sliding down so I had to re-silicon over top what I already had, ugh.
I added a couple final touches, a water level jig to use my vertical float switches on with multiple locations and the entire bracket can be adjusted up and down or taken out for maintenance.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/qhlmPIOAaEj8uAIkJ5y9bZlCSgOJlWjkmyiJbH64OenUrmmSLQeBfLx_0dcdChm_e2e6Nb_qFfE=w1158-h490
I know 4 float switches seem like overkill but I have my reasons. From top to bottom:
Too high (Fail Safe)
Ideal level
Water change stop level (For automated water changes)
Sump low (Fail Safe)
As well as a bracket I bent from acrylic to make a holder for my ATO and dosing lines.
http://i.imgur.com/aFPUwQA.png
I started with the return chamber that would be shared between the two sides. I used acrylic for the baffles, I know, shame on me with a glass tank, but I left the required amount of space to account for water absorbing expansion. I used plastic shims for spacing and holding in place.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/NDLTzLQNRj_IyA5NTwQYIRuak7Tju9S5rRR-CfMKk5_BD5gZgIpuU0788tIv_sQvyREJpDLhwsE=w1158-h566
Then I added the bubble wall with one inch spacing.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/aD07qHN69ybyiOe1hOq_fb-tWNlIlf0NTeGUyyI6aAjlXr25KJoD2tx0EYqf_hXDmkiCZ32TvEU=w1158-h566
Now was time for the exciting part. Dividing the sump! I ordered a piece of 24" x 24" black acrylic from amazon to prevent light bleeding into the rest of the sump from the Refugium. I measured the height I wanted the dividing wall, and 16 inches was perfect, so if for any reason it overflowed it would go into the other side and not out of the tank. I then cut the side baffle 1/2 inch shorter, so when it overflowed it would only go out that side into the bubble wall.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RStapBjH8pwcqwtI3ST3WQtUhpau8dSAjPOF1mn4V01fq4v7dCne_k69sfl1ivqfdF0_4zQRkpw=w1158-h490
Next it was time to put in the last baffle for the Skimmer side. I decided to try to make a sliding wall similar to the Aqueon products which turned out pretty well other than one side cracking when trying to slot the acrylic. I'll redo it at a later date, but it doesn't affect the final outcome. I cut the acrylic into a U shape and then turned the piece I cut out 90 degrees and used it for the adjustable wall minimizing waste.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/lkyNSjVmhTczMy_6tduUGMH0YensQ0C3D9e5DgW0EGPIU1E7e6P6PnsCphT9YdHxbXfy8ZW5gm8=w1158-h490
I also wanted to add some type of filter media, so filter socks seemed to be my best option. I created a mount for them to sit before the skimmer running parallel. I knew it would be quieter if I plumbed the water to the bottom of a chamber and then had it overflowing into the socks instead of directly into the socks. This eliminated the splashing noise and forcing the air bubbles from the overflow into the socks, with it also making it very easy to change the socks. This lessens the "nitrifying" effect of a wet dry filter, not forcing bubbles through the socks. I measured and cut the piece of acrylic and heated and bent it into a "Z" shape seen in the picture below. I used a Dremel and cut two holes at 3 3/4 inches in diameter to accommodate 4in filter socks.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/z0ctthYlHjKNNSZviJPGpsor1nQXj8SJ8-BJqEWj8EL56ZJIIqp9apRH7B72CiJOJwptP3D-Qjo=w1158-h490
Yes, I know I went a little heavy on the Silicon but the reason was the piece came loose while drying and started sliding down so I had to re-silicon over top what I already had, ugh.
I added a couple final touches, a water level jig to use my vertical float switches on with multiple locations and the entire bracket can be adjusted up and down or taken out for maintenance.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/qhlmPIOAaEj8uAIkJ5y9bZlCSgOJlWjkmyiJbH64OenUrmmSLQeBfLx_0dcdChm_e2e6Nb_qFfE=w1158-h490
I know 4 float switches seem like overkill but I have my reasons. From top to bottom:
Too high (Fail Safe)
Ideal level
Water change stop level (For automated water changes)
Sump low (Fail Safe)
As well as a bracket I bent from acrylic to make a holder for my ATO and dosing lines.
http://i.imgur.com/aFPUwQA.png