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Bearkat1234
03/08/2015, 01:45 PM
ok, my LFS is confusing me!

56g aquarium, 20g sump.

32lbs live cured rock
45lbs live sand

tank has been up and running for 3 weeks to the day!

Spec. Gravity 1.024
ammonia was 0 first week
nitrite 0 first week

at the 2 week mark, I dosed pure ammonia from Ace Hardware, no additives in the ammonia. 90% water, 10% ammonia hydroxide.

I during the 2nd week i had a ammonia spike around 2ppm. ammonia has went to 0 now on the 3rd week. Nitrite has spiked and nitrates are around 40ppm.

I have not seen an algae bloom yet!

My LFS told me I should have not used the Pure ammonia to kickstart the cycle...my lights have been off for the entire 3 weeks...they said i should turn my lights on 8-12hrs a day from here on out....they said i probably contaminated the water by adding the pure ammonia if i do not get an algae bloom with the lights being on from this point forward...and if I dont see a bloom I should probably drain the tank and put new saltwater in and start over. I have turned my heater now from 78deg to low 80's.

I am confused....how long is it going to take to have the Nitrites go back to 0? Should I have not added the ammonia?

I also have noticed small little tiny white bug like creatures crawling around on my glass inside the tank.....pods?

am i on the right track, or have I screwed up?

thanks.

gone fishin
03/08/2015, 01:58 PM
Your LFS does not know what they are talking about. You have not contaminated anything. They probably wanted to sell you a damsel or two for the cycle or some bacteria in a bottle.

I personally would not turn the lights on just to make some algae. Trust me it will show up eventually. More than likely you saw some pods. You are on the right track.

LFS never cease to amaze me with the garbage they toss out there. Good grief.

billdogg
03/08/2015, 01:58 PM
First, I would look for a LFS a bit more familiar with the several different ways to cycle a tank. Personally, I prefer to let it establish in it's own, although it takes longer. It sounds to me like you are on the right track. Lower the temp back down to 78-80. Lower temps = more dissolved Oxygen. Keep at it, give it another week, and test again. Once Ammonia and Nitrite have returned to, and stay at, 0, and Nitrate has gone up but is also stable, do a 10g or so water change, retest just to be sure, and then slowly start to add livestock. Lights can be on or off during cycle - it really does not matter a bit.

Good Luck!

viper12775
03/08/2015, 01:59 PM
you will be fine the LFS would rather sell you a fish to start the cycle after your nitrites go to 0 start doing water changes to lower nitrates and your good to go

Sk8r
03/08/2015, 02:05 PM
Try dropping in a few flakes of fishfood. [This is actually the way I cycle from the get-go, daily adds of fishfood] About 1 large one per 10 gallons. Do this for a few days. If it lies there, the tank isn't bioactive yet. If it disappears and there's ammonia, the tank isn't quite 'cooked' yet. If it disappears and there's no ammonia, I'd think you're good to add a few cerith snails and see how they do.

top shelf
03/08/2015, 02:06 PM
I cycled my tank with ammonia along with many others and have had no I'll effects.

Bearkat1234
03/08/2015, 02:24 PM
great! thanks guys.

forgot to mention, I dosed with fish food as well (pellets) 3 days in a row.

so it probably looks like i am just waiting for nitrite to reach back to 0 and then do a water change....i sure hope the fish store was wrong.

FortuneFavours
03/08/2015, 02:46 PM
I agree with all the other comments - your LFS is talking nonsense! I've had my tank up for about 4 months now and I started with dry base rock and dosed ammonia. Because I used dry base rock and not live, it took a while for the algae to establish but it is getting there now.

I read about different methods of ammonia dosing and went with the "keep testing and topping it up to x ppm" method, but I miscalculated and overdosed a couple of times - which resulted in a really high nitrate count! But the tank is fine now, all cycled and having fun with cyano.

Please don't listen to the LFS and drain your tank to start again! Listen to the pros that have commented earlier and you'll be enjoying a healthy tank soon..

Bearkat1234
03/08/2015, 02:59 PM
sounds good.

I only added ammonia one time. I did not keep dosing. After the 3rd week, tomorrow will start my 4th week of the cycle process...see below my test results taken about 10 minutes ago.....look ok?

Bearkat1234
03/08/2015, 03:00 PM
but as stated above, i did drop in fish food for like three days

FortuneFavours
03/08/2015, 03:26 PM
I followed the advice in this article (http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_51/fishless-cycling-article.htm) (and others).

I was so desperate for the cycle to finish that I tested every single day. But, alas, it didn't make the cycle complete more quickly. Lol

In the end, I decided to follow the advice I read on an article somewhere or other: the tank is cycled when ammonia and nitrite are zero AND return to zero within 12 hours after adding a new source of ammonia.

So you'd wait for ammonia/nitrite to read zero (yes, I too desperately tried to convince my eyes that the test results were a lighter colour than they actually were); then you'd add a new source of ammonia (e.g. fish food or dose directly) and if the readings are down to zero again within 12 hours then your tank is probably cycled.

bklynreef123
03/08/2015, 04:24 PM
While you can cycle your tank with live rock, sand, and some source of ammonia, I highly recommend dosing Special Blend and Nite Out II. These two products help develop a biologically stable tank. You dont need these bottled bacteria, but your tank will certainly be better for it. If you do some searching you will see many reefers who use these products. They last a decent amount of time depending on the volume of your tank and cost about $26 combined.

Bearkat1234
03/08/2015, 05:12 PM
what do my parameters above look like to you?

FortuneFavours
03/08/2015, 05:20 PM
what do my parameters above look like to you?

The first thing to focus on is the ammonia; it isn't reading zero yet. Have a look online at some of the fishless cycle graphs. You'll see that ammonia drops to zero first, then the nitrite does the same, but later on in the cycle. Keep your logs and you should be able to see the ammonia and nitrite rising and falling over time, like in the graphs.

Bearkat1234
03/08/2015, 05:31 PM
well if there is still showing ammonia when nitrite is spiking, does that mean something in the tank is killing something causing ammonia to stay in the tank?? or do i just keep waiting?

Bearkat1234
03/08/2015, 05:36 PM
ok thanks for all you guy's help! much appreciated!

Goldndoodle
03/08/2015, 05:44 PM
That is exactly how I cycled my tank. And BTW when I would stop in the various LFSs to "window shop" while my tank was cycling - I had several employees freak out when I told them what I was doing with the ACE Ammonia. They were telling me the same things you heard - I had to drain the tank, clean it out, start over ... blah, blah, blah. One time, the owner of the LFS heard one of them telling me that, and he interjected that I was doing a "fishless cycle" and I apparently knew what I was doing. At least the owner knew about the process ... hopefully he educated his staff after that.

I tested every other day until I saw ammonia drop, then I tested every day after that. When BOTH ammonia and nitrite was below 0.4PPM, I redosed ammonia back up to 2PPM until the ammonia was processed within 24 hours. It took 4 full weeks, and I redosed my ammonia 3 times after the initial cycle start dose.

I wouldn't ghost feed and ammonia dose ... you're likely causing additional ammonia to be produced. Just use the ACE Ammonia and keep everything logged / recorded. You'll start seeing a trend with what's going on with ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.

Have fun!

JoelA7
03/08/2015, 05:54 PM
Agree that you should not both dose ammonia and ghost feed together. Once you've returned to zero NH3 from 2-4 ppm in 24 hours you've got through stage 1. Now you can ghost feed daily with no more NH3. Wait until your nitrite is down to zero. That's stage 2 done. Now measure Nitrate. Do some water changes to get it below 20 and start to add livestock slowly. Keep monitoring your Nitrate level and doing good sized weekly changes to get it down below 5.

And you can do all of this lights on or off and skimmer on.

Oldude
03/08/2015, 06:06 PM
It is too bad that so many LFS staff know so little but still give advise when they have no actual first hand experience, have done no research.

tmz
03/08/2015, 07:42 PM
Sounds like you're fine for fish. Just wait for a week ofzero ammonia readings with ghost feeding.
I see no reason not to ghost feed. Ammonia adds nitrogen but food adds other nutrients the bacteria in ther biofilters need as well as ammonia including some phosphate, rion, potassium et al. It's likely some die off ion yhour live rock helped add those up until now.

For corals I'd get the sg to 1.025/6 an double check it.

Mythicalelf
03/08/2015, 07:47 PM
sounds good.

I only added ammonia one time. I did not keep dosing. After the 3rd week, tomorrow will start my 4th week of the cycle process...see below my test results taken about 10 minutes ago.....look ok?

I'm in the process of cycling too right now My ammonia test looked similar to yours today and I was like that kinda looks like 0 so I went and got some of my RO/DI water and did the test side by side and I could clearly see it wasn't zero.

When in doubt what 0 looks like try that so you know!

Bearkat1234
03/08/2015, 08:23 PM
ok great! thanks everyone.
I will try that!

one last question, when should I put more ammonia in? after nitrite goes to 0 to see if it will process in 24 hrs?

FraggledRock
03/08/2015, 08:26 PM
the LFS will NEVER be 100% real with you, because you're not buying anything from them.

they probably don't even know the real chemistry of a nitrogen cycle yet =P

so they may think you just crazy! putting hardware ammonia in there =P

JoelA7
03/08/2015, 08:27 PM
It will. But it is a plus if when you do that your nitrite also returns to zero. The bacteria which processes nitrite takes longer to build up than that which processes NH3 but NO2 is less toxic. Still need it at 0. Good to remember that it really takes 6 months or more for a tank to move away from the "new" tank and start to have well developed ecosystem.

FraggledRock
03/08/2015, 08:27 PM
ok great! thanks everyone.
I will try that!

one last question, when should I put more ammonia in? after nitrite goes to 0 to see if it will process in 24 hrs?

you dont need to add any more ammonia.

putting the fish food with eventually decompose into ammonia to continue the cycle indefinitely =)

Spyderturbo007
03/09/2015, 07:34 AM
As others have pointed out, the easiest thing to do right now is add food on a daily basis. I would recommend what you think you would feed to your first fish. If that decomposes into Nitrates (bypassing a positive Ammonia test) then your biological filter is established enough to handle a fish. If you see Ammonia or Nitrite in your testing, then there isn't enough bacteria yet and you need to wait longer.

Bearkat1234
03/09/2015, 10:14 AM
so do not add anymore ammonia, but keep ghost feeding, that's what you are saying?

Bearkat1234
03/09/2015, 10:15 AM
I don't just wait for nitrite to go down?

jminick2
03/09/2015, 10:20 AM
u r getting way too much info here.....I have no idea why ppl are telling you to add food. If you add food the bacteria are going to keep converting to nitrites and then nitrates. They have already accomplished this part of the cycle for the most part based on your test results at this point you are wanting your nitrites to come down, by adding food you are essentially adding more nitrites to the cycle this is why you do not want to add any food.

Your cycle is clearly under way otherwise it would be impossible for you to have nitrites. Just sit and wait till you nitrites are gone. that's all you need to do at this point. Your nitrifying bacteria do not need fed right now. Just wait that's it.

FraggledRock
03/09/2015, 10:21 AM
so do not add anymore ammonia, but keep ghost feeding, that's what you are saying?

yes

g0rilla
03/09/2015, 10:24 AM
your lfs does not know what they are talking about. You have not contaminated anything. They probably wanted to sell you a damsel or two for the cycle or some bacteria in a bottle.



+1

Bearkat1234
03/09/2015, 10:25 AM
ok I will sit and wait it out.

thanks everyone.

jminick2
03/09/2015, 10:26 AM
yes

you are telling him not to add ammonia but to add food its one in the same? what is the point? why are you telling him to prolong his cycle?

FraggledRock
03/09/2015, 10:27 AM
you are telling him not to add ammonia but to add food its one in the same? what is the point? why are you telling him to prolong his cycle?

ghost feeding a tank is not the same as dosing pure ammonia.

feeding a tank will not prolong a cycle.

jminick2
03/09/2015, 10:30 AM
ghost feeding a tank is not the same as dosing pure ammonia.

feeding a tank will not prolong a cycle.

you do realize food produces ammonia right? So essentially it is the same.


What is the point of ghost feeding at this point? The bacteria is not going anywhere is take several months for it to starve out.

The nitrifying bacteria have already converted the initial amount ammonia he already added. Why do you want it to keep adding all you are doing is producing MORE nitrites and MORE nitrates. Which absolutely prolongs the cycle whether its by an hour or a day it does.

At this point in the cycle ALL he has to do is wait for the nitrites to come down to 0.

FraggledRock
03/09/2015, 10:33 AM
you do realize food produces ammonia right? So essentially it is the same.


What is the point of ghost feeding at this point? The bacteria is not going anywhere is take several months for it to starve out.

The nitrifying bacteria have already converted the initial amount ammonia he already added. Why do you want it to keep adding all you are doing is producing MORE nitrites and MORE nitrates. Which absolutely prolongs the cycle whether its by an hour or a day it does.

At this point in the cycle ALL he has to do is wait for the nitrites to come down to 0.

you need to keep a continuous source of nutrients for the bacteria to stay alive.

if you stop feeding and let the bacteria die, you will cause a possible situation where he will need to restart a cycle.

yes if he stops feeding he will undoubtedly get to a point of 0 ammonia and 0 nitrites and all nitrates.

but then bacteria will begin to die off.. cause ammonia spikes without a way for the ammonia to be consumed without restarting a cycle.

plus it "trains" the new tank owner how to maintain a healthy tank with the basics of feeding schedules and maintenance.

for inexperienced reef or aquarium owners thats a first step in gaining experience.

telling him to stop assessing tank health daily will cause a "bad husbandry" habit of neglect.

where we need to all practice the best possible "husbandry" we can for successful reef tanks in our homes.

and this all starts from day 1.

jminick2
03/09/2015, 10:35 AM
you need to keep a continuous source of nutrients for the bacteria to stay alive.

if you stop feeding and let the bacteria die, you will cause a possible situation where he will need to restart a cycle.

yes if he stops feeding he will undoubtedly get to a point of 0 ammonia and 0 nitrites and all nitrates.

but then bacteria will begin to die off.. cause ammonia spikes without a way for the ammonia to be consumed without restarting a cycle.

It takes many months for bacteria to die off there have been studies where bacteria has lasted over a year with out any source of ammonia.

So as I said you DO NOT need to waste fish food feeding bacteria at this point. you bacteria is not going anywhere. You are in fact prolonging your cycle.

FraggledRock
03/09/2015, 10:37 AM
It takes many months for bacteria to die off there have been studies where bacteria has lasted over a year with out any source of ammonia.

So as I said you DO NOT need to waste fish food feeding bacteria at this point. you bacteria is not going anywhere. You are in fact prolonging your cycle.

with that logic, once fish are in the tank, the cycle is prolonged?

this is not a situation of arguing technicalities, someone is asking advice for getting their tank going in the right direction,

he doesn't need to know the taxonomy of bacteria.

also if you're worried about wasting a bit of fish food then you're overlooking the other more expensive stuff.

you're also missing the point of developing husbandry habits.

jminick2
03/09/2015, 10:41 AM
with that logic, once fish are in the tank, the cycle is prolonged?

WHAT? once the cycle is complete (ammonia 0 nitrites 0) which is when you add fish......There is no cycle, the nitrifying bacteria are established. They do their "thing" to support your bioload, IF added slowly.

NOW that being said if you were to cycle a tank with lets say 1ppm ammonia and that's as high as it went. Then you threw a giant bioload all at once YES your cycle is essentially prolonged or it will restart because your ESTABLISHED bacteria couldn't handle the bioload.

FraggledRock
03/09/2015, 10:44 AM
WHAT? once the cycle is complete (ammonia 0 nitrites 0) which is when you add fish......There is no cycle, the nitrifying bacteria are established. They do their "thing" to support your bioload, IF added slowly.

NOW that being said if you were to cycle a tank with lets say 1ppm ammonia and that's as high as it went. Then you threw a giant bioload all at once YES your cycle is essentially prolonged or it will restart because your ESTABLISHED bacteria couldn't handle the bioload.

smh.

stop huffing and puffing and read from the top again and analyze my responses a bit deeper.

jminick2
03/09/2015, 10:44 AM
I'm done arguing about it.

Listen, to the OP you can ghost feed if you want its just going to take longer. Or you can not, its gonna matter either way eventually your tank will cycle. I was just trying to save you a little time cause I know starting out you are excited to get things going.

FraggledRock
03/09/2015, 10:46 AM
I'm done arguing about it.

Listen, to the OP you can ghost feed if you want its just going to take longer. Or you can not, its gonna matter either way eventually your tank will cycle. I was just trying to save you a little time cause I know starting out you are excited to get things going.

Do you work at the LFS he went to? lolol

jminick2
03/09/2015, 10:49 AM
Do you work at the LFS he went to? lolol

hmm. I guess my information I contributed didn't make sense. I don't know how it couldn't of. Since we are going to start with the insults. I'll be on my way. Happy Reefing.

FraggledRock
03/09/2015, 10:51 AM
hmm. I guess my information I contributed didn't make sense. I don't know how it couldn't of. Since we are going to start with the insults. I'll be on my way. Happy Reefing.

I am not insulting you , however, the info being given is still the same confusing information that the LFS told him, and everyone is saying they are wrong or rather not 100% right...

but you still feel the need to defend it after that...

I am up for healthy debate. you have to remember this is a somewhat public forum, so not everyone will have the same thing to say or agree on the same things.

jminick2
03/09/2015, 10:56 AM
[QUOTE=Bearkat1234;23570493]ok, my LFS is confusing me!

at the 2 week mark, I dosed pure ammonia from Ace Hardware, no additives in the ammonia. 90% water, 10% ammonia hydroxide.

I during the 2nd week i had a ammonia spike around 2ppm. ammonia has went to 0 now on the 3rd week. Nitrite has spiked and nitrates are around 40ppm.

I have not seen an algae bloom yet!

My LFS told me I should have not used the Pure ammonia to kickstart the cycle...my lights have been off for the entire 3 weeks...they said i should turn my lights on 8-12hrs a day from here on out....they said i probably contaminated the water by adding the pure ammonia if i do not get an algae bloom with the lights being on from this point forward...and if I dont see a bloom I should probably drain the tank and put new saltwater in and start over. I have turned my heater now from 78deg to low 80's.

QUOTE]

Felt like an insult to me.

where did I say it was a bad idea to kick start a cycle?With pure ammonia that is great way to start a cycle.

FraggledRock
03/09/2015, 10:58 AM
[QUOTE=Bearkat1234;23570493]ok, my LFS is confusing me!

at the 2 week mark, I dosed pure ammonia from Ace Hardware, no additives in the ammonia. 90% water, 10% ammonia hydroxide.

I during the 2nd week i had a ammonia spike around 2ppm. ammonia has went to 0 now on the 3rd week. Nitrite has spiked and nitrates are around 40ppm.

I have not seen an algae bloom yet!

My LFS told me I should have not used the Pure ammonia to kickstart the cycle...my lights have been off for the entire 3 weeks...they said i should turn my lights on 8-12hrs a day from here on out....they said i probably contaminated the water by adding the pure ammonia if i do not get an algae bloom with the lights being on from this point forward...and if I dont see a bloom I should probably drain the tank and put new saltwater in and start over. I have turned my heater now from 78deg to low 80's.

QUOTE]

Felt like an insult to me.

where did I say it was a bad idea to kick start a cycle?With pure ammonia that is great way to start a cycle.

I am talking about how he doesn't need to add pure ammonia anymore. I mentioned to specifically use fish food.

I simply stated he /she could use fish food as a replacement source.

thats when you went for the throat lol

jminick2
03/09/2015, 10:59 AM
If you would like I quote every post the OP has made.

No where does it say the local fish store told him he didn't need to keep adding food through out the cycle.

FraggledRock
03/09/2015, 11:01 AM
If you would like I quote every post the OP has made.

No where does it say the local fish store told him he didn't need to keep adding food through out the cycle.

dude, you're all types of confused.

i recommend you back track a little bit.

you're starting to confuse the heck outta me lol

i'm talking about moving forward past his ammonia dosing.

look at the last post on page 1....

tmz
03/09/2015, 11:03 AM
I think the snarky ad hominem comments are not helpful and unneccesary.
No need to insult people or the LFS with honest disagreement or an alternative perspective. It's a fine thing to challenge the information without making it personal.

For the OP, if your tank has zero ammonia for a week or more it's cycled . The ammonia oxidizing bacteria are using up the ammonia in the tank generated by the decay of organic matter including die off .
The amount of bacterial activity depends on the amount of nutrients they have available. So, it's not a bad idea to add food or even ammonia after the cyclr is complete to increase the processing limit of the bacteria if you plan to add a lot of fish at once. There may be a lag otherwise resulting in an ammonia spike after you add livestock.
There is a difference between food and ammonia. Food adds nitrogen, phosphate ,iron. potassium etc , nutrients bacteria need. With ammonia you just get the nitrogen and rely on the amounts of other nutrients in the tank. I prefer ghost feeding to ammonia for that reason.

Regarding the light issue, ammonia oxidizing bacteria don't need light. They are somewhat pototrophic. It is likely better to run without lights for at least the first few days,IMO.

jminick2
03/09/2015, 11:07 AM
I cant make this anymore clear........

I said you do not need to ghost feed during a cycle AFTER the initial ammonia source has already been added.

You are saying that's what the local fish told him

Heres where it seems to be getting confusing for you......The OP has never stated anywhere that the local fish store has told him that he does not need to ghost feed once the initial ammonia source has been added (that's what I said see above).

HE has only said the local fish store said it was a bad idea to use pure ammonia as an initial ammonia source which is wrong it is a great idea to use pure ammonia (so to make things clear I DISAGREE with the LFS)

That's the best I can do for you.

FraggledRock
03/09/2015, 11:07 AM
I think the snarky ad hominem comments are not helpful and uneccesary.
No need to insult people with honest disagreement or an alternative perspective. It's a fine thing to challenge the infromation without making it personal.
For the OP, if your tank has zero ammonia for a week or more it's cycled . The ammonia oxidizing bacterria are using up the ammonia in the tank generated by the decay of organic matter including die off .
The amount of bacterial activity depends on the amount of nutreint they have available. So, it's not a bad idea to add food or even ammonia after the cyulce is complete to increase the processing limit of the bacteria.
There is a differnece between food and ammonia. Food adds nitrogen, phoshate ,iron. potassium etc , nutrients bacteria need. With ammonia you just get the nitrogen and rely on the amounts of other nutrients in the tank. I prefer ghost feeding to ammonia for that reason.

i was trying to break the tension with a bit of humor, i realized after it was taken offensively.

That is what I was saying since page 1...

irony...

jminick2
03/09/2015, 11:14 AM
.
There is a differnece between food and ammonia. Food adds nitrogen, phoshate ,iron. potassium etc , nutrients bacteria need. With ammonia you just get the nitrogen and rely on the amounts of other nutrients in the tank. I prefer ghost feeding to ammonia for that reason.

Nitrifying bacteria need phosphate? If this were so wouldnt the amount of phosphates be a determining factor in our bacteria population. Not disagreeing with you, just have never heard this. If they feed on phosphate then why would we ever need to run GFO or have any algae?

jminick2
03/09/2015, 11:25 AM
@TMZ you are absolutely right, that is interesting you learn something new everyday in this hobby.

The conversion of ATP provides energy for cellular functions. Phosphorus is normally available to cells in the form of phosphates (PO4). Nitrobacter, especially, is unable to oxidize nitrite to nitrate in the absence of phosphates.
It even goes as far as saying RODI is bad in this sense because it stripped of all its phosphates.

I would have to admit based on this adding food might not be a bad idea. For the phosphates, NOT for an ammonia source. I would assume if you have any sort of live rock in there that sufficient phosphates would be available with out adding food?

FraggledRock
03/09/2015, 11:31 AM
@TMZ you are absolutely right, that is interesting you learn something new everyday in this hobby.

The conversion of ATP provides energy for cellular functions. Phosphorus is normally available to cells in the form of phosphates (PO4). Nitrobacter, especially, is unable to oxidize nitrite to nitrate in the absence of phosphates.
It even goes as far as saying RODI is bad in this sense because it stripped of all its phosphates.

I would have to admit based on this adding food might not be a bad idea. For the phosphates, NOT for an ammonia source. I would assume if you have any sort of live rock in there that sufficient phosphates would be available with out adding food?

The trick is to find the balance of every ion which keeps growth of wanted organisms stable, and not be overloaded to aid in growth of unwanted organisms.

Phosphates in live rock is variable, in the event that if one KNEW the rocks were leaching, then that would need to be remedied.

ultimately the control of each ion is defendant on the reefer, and the more guesswork is added, the more likely things spiral out of control.

however yes the rocks could leach more than enough phosphates that media would need to be added to remedy to excess...

jminick2
03/09/2015, 11:33 AM
Another interesting fact related to this topic that I did not know.

Nitrifying bacteria are photosensitive, especially to blue and ultraviolet light. After they have colonized a surface this light poses no problem. During the first 3 or 4 days many of the cells may be suspended in the water column. Specialized bulbs in reef aquaria that emit UV or near UV light should remain off during this time. Regular aquarium lighting has no appreciable negative effect.

FraggledRock
03/09/2015, 11:35 AM
Another interesting fact related to this topic that I did not know.

Nitrifying bacteria are photosensitive, especially to blue and ultraviolet light. After they have colonized a surface this light poses no problem. During the first 3 or 4 days many of the cells may be suspended in the water column. Specialized bulbs in reef aquaria that emit UV or near UV light should remain off during this time. Regular aquarium lighting has no appreciable negative effect.

I didn't know that either thanks for sharing.

can you link the source? seems you found a wealth of knowledge =)

jminick2
03/09/2015, 11:38 AM
@fraggledrock u seem like a smart guy, sorry bout all that. U weren't wrong in your posts. Many ways to skin a cat in this hobby.

jminick2
03/09/2015, 11:38 AM
I didn't know that either thanks for sharing.

can you link the source? seems you found a wealth of knowledge =)

http://www.bioconlabs.com/nitribactfacts.html

FraggledRock
03/09/2015, 11:40 AM
@fraggledrock u seem like a smart guy, sorry bout all that. U weren't wrong in your posts. Many ways to skin a cat in this hobby.

Thanks, I wasn't trying to "win".

I was just trying to pick your brain for what you were saying and I started getting all confused in following the logic...

I apologize if you were offended, my humor is tough on some people. I forget we aren't all roughed up sicilian brooklyn boys and girls LOL

FraggledRock
03/09/2015, 11:42 AM
http://www.bioconlabs.com/nitribactfacts.html

thanks! time to read!

jminick2
03/09/2015, 11:44 AM
Haha My great grandparents are actually from Italy not sicily though.

FraggledRock
03/09/2015, 11:47 AM
Haha My great grandparents are actually from Italy not sicily though.

SO WE'RE GUMBAS!!!

Boppitty Boopee!

tmz
03/09/2015, 12:14 PM
Nitrifying bacteria need phosphate? If this were so wouldnt the amount of phosphates be a determining factor in our bacteria population. Not disagreeing with you, just have never heard this. If they feed on phosphate then why would we ever need to run GFO or have any algae?

I see you found the information I was summarizing. Not only ATP but dna and ,phospholipids too, btw.
Live rock substrate ,microfuana and other decay may contribute enough but may not. Not every tank needs GFO to keep phosphates undetectable. Some do experience phosphate deficiencies.

tmz
03/09/2015, 12:22 PM
Well, I'm a Brooklyn/Queens boy started in Greenpoint and my grandson is half Sicillian. My best man was fellow named Sedita .Does that qualify?

FraggledRock
03/09/2015, 12:24 PM
Well, I'm a Brooklyn/Queens boy started in Greenpoint and my grandson is half Sicillian. My best man was fellow named Sedita .Does that qualify?

well hello neighbor!

I grew up on bleeker street and then on harman street.

sure does =P

Bearkat1234
03/09/2015, 12:43 PM
wow that was a lot ! haha.

maybe I should just wait and let nitrite go to 0 and call it a cycle after a water change when it is time.

Bearkat1234
03/09/2015, 12:45 PM
but, can anyone tell me why I have not seen an algae bloom starting my 4th week of the cycle today?

gone fishin
03/09/2015, 12:53 PM
I would be inclined to think you have not seen any algae due to not running your lights. Once you turn them on I am sure you will get the algae. just my 2 cents.

Savant
03/09/2015, 12:53 PM
Many ways to skin a cat in this hobby.

did you throw the skinned cat into the tank in the morning or in the evening because its important....?:lol:

Bearkat1234
03/09/2015, 01:54 PM
ok thanks fella's!

FortuneFavours
03/09/2015, 01:56 PM
but, can anyone tell me why I have not seen an algae bloom starting my 4th week of the cycle today?

I never witnessed an algae bloom when my tank was cycling...

Bearkat1234
03/09/2015, 02:26 PM
ok great! good to know!