diy LED Lumina 5.2 Purchase help.

[banthonyb71]

In the process of buying 2 cree Lumina 5.2 for my first diy build. I plan on adding a third down the road. I wanted to make sure I'm getting everything I need minus heatsink because the makers sink won't work for what I'm tryna do. also I figured 250 watt power supply would be enough for 3.

not sure if I got correct amount of drivers. 9note I only purchase 2 5.2's but wanted to get all the drivers now.

CREE Lumia 5.2 - 70w Full Spectrum 5 Channel CREE LED
Conne​ctors​: Dual ​Molex​ conn​ector​s for​ CREE​ Lumi​a 5.2​ - Fl​yi...
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Meanwell LDD-700H LED Driver Quantity 9 (three for each 5.2?)


Coralux 5UP LDD driver board 3 (1 for each chip?)


Meanwell LDD-1000H LED Driver 6(2 for each chip?)


250w 48v 5.2A DC Power Supply 1(is 250w enough for 3?)


Arctic Silver Céramique 2 - 25g


Cart Items Qty Item Price Item Total
Subtotal: $402.45
Estimate Shipping & Tax
Shipping Insurance: $11.67
Grand Total: $414.12


not sure if I got correct amount of drivers. 9note I only purchase 2 5.2's but wanted to get all the drivers now.

[Ktm898]

link does not work.

[Daimyo68]

Your list is correct. You will be able to add in the 3rd Lumia down the road without adding anything else (except maybe some more cooling)

[perkint]

Yeah - 5 drivers for 5 channels, 3 lots of the 5.2 so 15 drivers and LDD boards for 15 drivers. Each 5.2 is up to 70W so max of 210W on a 250W PSU should be fine. Not sure if 3 x 700mA and 2 x 1000mA is correct as I don't know for sure what LEDs are in the 5 Channels, but it is probably OK.

Tim

[Idefixes]

You don't need so much driver. With one 250W/48V you can power to lumia 5.2 in serie so with only one driver per chanel. Insted have 15-18V vf per chanel you will have 30-36Vf (aware with LDD-H rating and SMPS 250W/48V). You than need only 2xLLD1000h and 3xLDD700H for two lumia. To interconnect 2 lumia 5.2 you just have to connect one neg from one chip to the positive from the other. clay-boa sell premade interconnect wire

http://www.clay-boa.com/molex-connector-for-cree-lumia-5-2-interconnect/

5 driver (2x1000+3x700) will need more than 4.1A from PSU so on 250W/48v (= 5.2A) you can't use use more than 5 LDD => 1 or 2 (if in serie) lumia 5.2 per 250w/48V smps

[perkint]

5 driver (2x1000+3x700) will need more than 4.1A from PSU so on 250W/48v (= 5.2A) you can't use use more than 5 LDD => 1 or 2 (if in serie) lumia 5.2 per 250w/48V smps
That's not how it works. The input current varies depending on the input voltage and required output power, not output current - for example an LDD1000 running 24W of LEDs will only draw 500mA (well, a bit more, but not 1000mA) from a 48V supply.

Tim

[Idefixes]

Even you put 3 lumia in parallele with 15 driver => 210W you have not enough (16%) room on such basics SMPS for long time use....The smps will heat a lot...

[perkint]

I'd happily run one at 84% so long as it's a decent supply. But, what actual rating is the 5.2 running at on 700mA and 1000mA? As, if it really is 70W, i would check the fV of each of the strings. The LDDs are up to 97% efficient, but that varies depending on the fV of the strings compared with the input voltage. If they are not very much at the upper end of that, Idefixes may well be right and you'd be pushing the PSU very hard!

Tim

[banthonyb71]

You don't need so much driver. With one 250W/48V you can power to lumia 5.2 in serie so with only one driver per chanel. Insted have 15-18V vf per chanel you will have 30-36Vf (aware with LDD-H rating and SMPS 250W/48V). You than need only 2xLLD1000h and 3xLDD700H for two lumia. To interconnect 2 lumia 5.2 you just have to connect one neg from one chip to the positive from the other. clay-boa sell premade interconnect wire



That's not how it works.
T

I thought the same thing however when I went on to nanoreefs, looking for how many drivers I needed, a LEDgroup buy rep said the exact same thing. That I would only need 5 drivers for the first 2 but then 5 more for the 3rd.

So how many actually is it?

[banthonyb71]

ok, Im some what following along here but can you guys please dumb it down just a hair and briefly put this in lamens terms? again, first diy build. Can I run 2 Lumia off 5 drivers? and if so, what is the negatives of doing this, if any? thanks.

[perkint]

A single LDD can run any string of LEDs from 2V to 52V. But it always requires an input at least 3V above what it needs to output. And it can take a maximum input of 56V. Yeah, i know there is a stray 1V in there (52V max output, 3V difference between in & out should mean 55V max in), but give meanwell a break! It's only 1V.

So, you want to know if you can run two 5.2 chips from one driver. What fV is on that string? They have:

Channel 1: 18V @700mA
Channel 2 16.5V @1500mA
Channel 3 16.5V @1500mA
Channel 4 17.2V @700mA
Channel 5 18V @700mA

Now by my reckoning that's more than 70W anyway, so I'm confused! More like 85W!!

But then reduce that by driving the two 1500mA strings at 1000mA and you take probably over 17W per chip out of the power, so brings it back to slightly less than 70W. But, anyway...

You have a 48V supply, so assuming that supply is not adjustable (most are, but you need to check!) that means a sinlge driver can run a string up to 45V. Well, i reckon any 48V PSU with enough power could run a couple of 5.2's off 5 LDDs. In fact, you could get away with easily running three 5.2s from a single meanwell 36V (adjustable) 350W supply which are pretty cheap on eBay and you'd only need 10 drivers and 2 driver PCBs that way :)

If this don't make sense or you want further details on owt, shout up. It's well gone midnight here and i should be in bed :(

Tim

[mkj]

I have the 5.2s

one board with two 1000ldd and three 700ldd will run two 5.2s. on that PS

If you want a third 5.2 for the future you will need a second board/LDD set. Just order the one set of board/ldd, you can get the second set if you order a third 5.2 later. No need to order them unless you end up getting a third 5.2

Now for the PS:

The 250watt will be fine with two 5.2s but I think the amps may be a problem with trying to use three Lumias on that PS. The one set of LDDs will be doing 4.1amps if maxed (3X700 + 2X1000), which is fine for that PS but add a second set of LDDs and amps go over that PS I think. I think with two sets of boards/LDDs you need to double that 4.1 amps to 8.2 amps which is over that PS you quoted but Im not sure if amps doubles or not with second board/LDDs on the same PS.

Personally I would use the 250 watt PS on two but I would get a second PS when/if order the third Lumia. Or, order the 500 watt that has 10.4amps. Overkill for two Lumias but good for three I think.

read http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2372156 . Aqualund built a large one using many Lumias

I didn't see a controller on your list. You will need one. I'm using a reefangel for my lights but many people use the storm controller that's sold on that website if you just want it to control lights and nothing else.

[Daimyo68]

Ben at LedGroupBuy can confirm that the 250w PS will be more than enough to power 3 of the 5.2 lumia's

[Daimyo68]

clay-boa??? Not sure where that came from

LGB

[jedimasterben]

All channels of the Lumia at 700mA is around 58w. Bump CH2 and CH3 to 1A and that adds another 10, so right at 70. Taking them to 1.5A adds another 17w, so to around 85 like was mentioned earlier.

Let's say they're running them at 70w absolute maximum. If they're being run simply on/off, IMHO a 250w supply isn't enough, as the PSU will be at ~88% load after the LDD efficiency, which is a bit too close for my liking, especially not on a power supply like the HLG that can take it.

But if you are going to use them on a controller, the power supply will not have that sustained load for the full time the LEDs are on, so it should be fine.


Still a little close for comfort if they're running at full power for prolonged periods, but not many never even reach full power.

[Aqualund]

Don't go with the power supplies that led group buy sell. Spend the SAME amount and get a meanwell power supply from a place like TRC. I have replaced all of my led group buy psu's within a year due to failures.

[banthonyb71]

I didn't see a controller on your list[/B]. You will need one. I'm using a reefangel for my lights but many people use the storm controller that's sold on that website if you just want it to control lights and nothing else.

yea. I was going to use the storm. I was following this quote from ben at ledgroup buy towards a different cutomer "you'll only need two of the 5.2, in which case the easiest connection and control would be the 5up MakersDriver pro, one 180w power supply, 3x LDD-700H, 2x LDD-1000H (the 1000 will control CH2 and CH3), and the MakersController. For more advanced control and a less expensive option, you can use the same LDD and power supply, but the Coralux 5up board and the Storm or Storm X controller, the only caveat is that they are a less finished look and more difficult to hook up, but if you've got a little experience with electronics, it should be a piece of cake. :)

close for my liking, especially not on a power supply like the HLG that can take it.

But if you are going to use them on a controller, the power supply will not have that sustained load for the full time the LEDs are on, so it should be fine.


Still a little close for comfort if they're running at full power for prolonged periods, but not many never even reach full power.


So where could I find a power supply above 250 to be better safe than sorry? other than the 500watt at ledgroupbuy? someone mentioned ebay. any certain brand?

[perkint]

If using separate drivers per chip you can get a decent meanwell supply at 36V 9A which will easily be man enough :)

Tim

[jedimasterben]

Don't go with the power supplies that led group buy sell. Spend the SAME amount and get a meanwell power supply from a place like TRC. I have replaced all of my led group buy psu's within a year due to failures.
+1

Or step up to something like the HLG and get ultra high efficiency and IP65/67. The HLG can be both constant voltage and act as a power supply and as a constant current LED driver. They can be run up to ~95% load as a power supply before it switches to constant current mode. Even with a nearly full load, the HLG barely gets warm thanks to the metal enclosure. Those things scream high quality.

[Idefixes]

If using separate drivers per chip you can get a decent meanwell supply at 36V 9A which will easily be man enough :)

Tim

That's seems quite more reasonable.

Marc

[banthonyb71]

That's seems quite more reasonable.

Marc

but I need enough for 3 Lumia's. what is TRC?

[jedimasterben]

but I need enough for 3 Lumia's. what is TRC?
LDD are cheap, $3.70-5 from Allied electronics. TRC is a website, http://www.trcelectronics.com/

[Idefixes]

but I need enough for 3 Lumia's. what is TRC?

If you go with 3 lumia in // (15 driver) 36V/9A (320W) is enough. Take a look a look as Jedimasterben says here ( http://www.trcelectronics.com/36-volt-power-supplies-chassis-1.shtml ). One indciation about quality could be waranty time length....

Marc

[banthonyb71]

So only thing I get from group buy is lumia chip? Everything else I get cheaper and/or better elsewhere?

[jedimasterben]

So only thing I get from group buy is lumia chip? Everything else I get cheaper and/or better elsewhere?
Depends on shipping charges, minimum orders, etc, but for the most part, yes.

[banthonyb71]

dang u guys r quick with the responses today. must be cus of the date... didnt we just have a Friday the 13th a few weeks ago?

[perkint]

About 4 weeks ago, yeah :)

I have a couple of these and they have been great:
http://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/SE-350-36.shtml

Tim

[mkj]

36v isn't enough to run three in series only two and that's pushing it "3 Hyper Violet and 2 CREE XT-E Royal Blue (Actinic channel) (18v @ 700mA)" times this by three lumias = 54v "15LEDs" + one LDD "3v" = 57v on a single string if running at 700mA.

I haven't seen anyone attempt this with the Lumias. All builds i've seen are two Lumias on single string not three and using 48v because 36 v PS is ok for the 10 LEDs but don't forget the LDD also needs 3v which makes 39v for two lumia on the largest volt string.

again I recommend using two 48v PSs for three Lumias, it keeps things simpler or find a very good expensive PS that can be run over volted "57v".

this is what every Lumia build I have seen do, including mine. Even ones using a dozen Lumias. None that I know of have done three in series. There may be a reason. It's not that it cant be done, its because it complicates things

[Aqualund]

36v isn't enough to run three in series only two and that's pushing it "3 Hyper Violet and 2 CREE XT-E Royal Blue (Actinic channel) (18v @ 700mA)" times this by three lumias = 54v "15LEDs" + one LDD "3v" = 57v on a single string if running at 700mA.

I haven't seen anyone attempt this with the Lumias. All builds i've seen are two Lumias on single string not three and using 48v because 36 v PS is ok for the 10 LEDs but don't forget the LDD also needs 3v which makes 39v for two lumia on the largest volt string.

again I recommend using two 48v PSs for three Lumias, it keeps things simpler or find a very good expensive PS that can be run over volted "57v".

this is what every Lumia build I have seen do, including mine. Even ones using a dozen Lumias. None that I know of have done three in series. There may be a reason. It's not that it cant be done, its because it complicates things

Nope, yup you're right. I guess I didnt read into this enough, but yeah if the plan is to run 3 in series, it's not going to work out as easily as just getting two psu's and running 2 on 1 and 1 on the other.

[Idefixes]

Nop mjk it's possible but you have to run them in parallele on PSU and then use 5 LDD per lumia. Vf is max 18V then.

[Aqualund]

Nop mjk it's possible but you have to run them in parallele on PSU and then use 5 LDD per lumia. Vf is max 18V then.

Yes there's plenty of ways to hook up 3 Lumia's to one power supply, but running 3 in series off of one PSU at 48VDC is what we were saying is not possible.

[Idefixes]

Yes there's plenty of ways to hook up 3 Lumia's to one power supply, but running 3 in series off of one PSU at 48VDC is what we were saying is not possible.

Yes of course, you are plenty right but at begining of this topic guy wanted to connect them in parallel, and probably ignore we could do that in serie for max to unit per LDD. It's the way i will use my conversion in multichip from lumia 5.2.

Marc

[perkint]

Do them in parallel. Gives you individual control over each 5.2 so you can do silly storms and sunrise on one side of the tank and sunset on the other :D

And you could probably run 2 in series on a 36V easily enough (they adjust up by about 10%).

Tim

[Aqualund]

Yes of course, you are plenty right but at begining of this topic guy wanted to connect them in parallel, and probably ignore we could do that in serie for max to unit per LDD. It's the way i will use my conversion in multichip from lumia 5.2.

Marc

Ah okay gotcha my bad I must've missed that :)

[mkj]

I don't see where it says parallel at the beginning and of course as I said there are many ways to do this.

Just keep it simple though and do it the way everyone else that has built using the lumias has done it"and is recommended by the people who sell then and is in their example builds, which is 2 in a string". If you now of a thred that has used the Lumias in parallel please link. Im sure it works but no one I know of has used Lumias this way.

Recommended way by site works and is probably easiest way for a nooby to understand. No need to get fancy unless you really understand this stuff.

2 lumias, 5 ldds, 1 PS and done. More Lumias just double

[Aqualund]

I think they are talking about the ldd boards being powered in parallel, and using 3 of the boards...to power 3 lumias separately. This isn't all that tricky or fancy, and will do just fine.

But if we're talking about 1 ldd board and 3 lumias in parallel well then yeah I wouldnt suggest that.

[banthonyb71]

hmm. I fell like there is more of a debate going on thn a solid agreed one way??

Ok. My plan is to start with 2 then add a 3rd.

So what do I use 1 power supply or 2?
series or parallel?
are we still using a total of 10 drivers for 3 lumias and 5 for 1?

who am I listening too? I have no idea what advice I'm suppose to follow.
No idea, how I'm suppose to wire these or for that matter, the benefit of wiring that way. I've wired Subwoofers in parallel and series before, never LED's.
I just planned on making sure I got what was needed and learning during the build what voltage, watts, etc. Otherwise, I have not much clue what any of these numbers mean. the only numbers I understand as of now..are part numbers.http://www.forumsextreme.com/images3/Smilies_Sad_Cry.gif Im just want to know exaclty what parts to get.

[banthonyb71]

About 4 weeks ago, yeah :)

I have a couple of these and they have been great:
http://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/SE-350-36.shtml

Tim

No when I look at a PS like that, it doesnt look much diffrent than the pS on LEDGB site. is it not made by the same chinese people? or is it actually a different power supply?

[Idefixes]

No when I look at a PS like that, it doesnt look much diffrent than the pS on LEDGB site. is it not made by the same chinese people? or is it actually a different power supply?

Meanwell are build with tighter spécification as lambda SMPS. As i said you above a good indication is the warenty period (some have 5 year warenty).

To sump up you have 2 choices your 3 lumia build :

1) 2 five LDD board and 10 LDD (4xLDD1000 + 6xLDD700) => 2 lumia in serie and on one board and third lumia on the second board. This configuration will need a 48V PSU (320-350W) as the 2 lumia in serie will have 36V Vf . To these 36V you have to add 3 more for LDD run.

2) 3 five LDD board and 15 LDD all in parallel on on 350-400W SMPS. In this configuration you don't need neither 36 or 48V but 24V will be plenty (18V led Vf + 3V LDD = 21V) You need per Lumia 700x+1000x1 mA=4,1A => 3x4,1A=12,3A.

Yet you can discuss on advantage/disadvante of each solution. The second maybe could be better as LLD have not to deal with big voltage drop. But solution one let you add not just one but 2 more LDD if you chose the rigth PSU (450-500W° vith 10 LDD and may provid better coverage. If outpower is too high dealing tham down will ensure longer life time (less heat).

Marc

[banthonyb71]

If outpower is too high dealing tham down will ensure longer life time (less heat).

Marc
i think I like option 2 and the idea of dialing them down.

So power supply 21 volts. but still has to be above 250 watts?

[Idefixes]

i think I like option 2 and the idea of dialing them down.

So power supply 21 volts. but still has to be above 250 watts?

Standart power supply are 24V rated. With 21V on demand (LDD+Led) you don't have to do anything. For dailing led down you will have to do that with controler that you choose (storm or storm x it seems). For power supply you will need 3x4.1A=12.3A or 12.3x24V=295W with no marge in so IMO it's better to take a SMPS rated @ 350-400W for 3 LDD in parallel on SMPS

Marc

[perkint]

Three of the lumias run at the currents you are running is 210W. Four would be 280W. Add 10% for the LDDs (this is more than they use, but a bit of spare capacity doesn't hurt :) ) and then add a further 25% at least for a good margin to prevent running the PSU too hard. So you want a 24V at about 290W (or higher) for 3 or 385W (again, higher is OK) for 4.

I still think you'd actually be OK with 4 on the 360W i linked earlier, running 2 sets of 2 in parallel. But i would have to double check the LDD efficiencies at those voltages, but i bet you'd only actually be running at 300W or less (the main strings would be running at about 97% efficiency from the LDDs and the other strings are lower wattage so an increased use on the LDD has less impact overall). And I'd happily run 300W from a meanwell 360W PSU :)

Tim

[perkint]

i think I like option 2 and the idea of dialing them down.

So power supply 21 volts. but still has to be above 250 watts?
A 24V PSU would be fine, as Idefixes said, but if you do get one which is adjustable (a lot can be tweaked up or down about 10%) I'd turn it down a bit. You probably won't get it as low as 21V (and I'd keep it at about 22V anyway) but the LDDs are more efficient the nearer their input voltage is to what is required.

Doesn't make a world of difference efficiency wise as the LDDs are pretty good whatever (so i certainly wouldn't go looking for an adjustable PSU just to do this), but if your PSU can be adjusted, the only impact of doing it is things run a bit more efficiently (therefore cooler & cheaper), so why wouldn't you? :)

Tim

[banthonyb71]

ok. so the 350 watt 36/v mentioned above and then what about gwtting drivers cheaper like JediBen mentioned? his is a link to the led dimmer page but where are the dimmers I need on TRC site. I know where they are on LEDgroup buy site but he mentioned being a few $$ cheaper?




LDD are cheap, $3.70-5 from Allied electronics. TRC is a website, http://www.trcelectronics.com/

[banthonyb71]

also, could I use this to cool my multichip?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103195

[banthonyb71]

ok now I found the drivers on the site Jedimaster ben mentioned.

[banthonyb71]

since someone here linked me to a 36volt PS but then someone else said 36 volts isnt enough for een 2 lumias. as a newbie, I really have no idea who to listen to. do I listen to person a/ or person b? what about person g and h?

So I hope someone will tell me something and it can be confirmed by another member.. please!http://www.forumsextreme.com/images3/sHa_grouphug3.gif

So this is what I started to order.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-mYhEp2Ci8QE/VQTcDVWpnaI/AAAAAAAAA80/WvcCoOAFibs/w1374-h773-no/Screenshot%2B%285%29.png

except I need to get something else to go over $25 to avoid the handling fee.
So I thought about just getting PS from here. so is this enough to run 2 in parallel and later add a 3rd?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-W0IQlgiXSYQ/VQTcnbw-fiI/AAAAAAAAA9M/0jA0KpDRHvs/w1374-h773-no/ps.png

[Aqualund]

Okay I made a diagram for you to outline how to hook up the lumias in parallel.

http://i.imgur.com/UTTpytq.jpg

[Aqualund]

Also as far as that cooling solution you posted. If it is anodized aluminum that is giving that copper color thats fine...but if it's copper I'd stay away from that. Also, it just seems like too expensive of a solution, as you would need one of those directly behind each puck to be effective.

But on the other hand, I have used these fans for about two years now with no issues. Get a couple of these above a decently thick and large aluminum heatsink and you'll be fine and save a lot of money.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0/259-1461-ND

[banthonyb71]

ok cool. hey thanks alot Aqualund. I have plenty of those fans already. my reason for that cooling option is because I only have a couple inches of room behind the Puck to mount it on the rail on my fixture. So I will need either a really thin heatsink or something along the lines of what I showed.

So only thing I need now on confirmation on the last power supply I showed? zI dont know if its adjustable tho. or what to look for to know if its adjustable. thanks again

[Aqualund]

That power supply will do just fine btw.

And those fans...make sure the ones you have are brushless or fancy dancy bearings because the saltwater evap will break down most el cheapo fans in like a month. Obviously the ones i linked are pretty cheap but they really last long because of how they are built. I've tried like 5 other kinds...some more expensive that didnt work very well.

[perkint]

How are you going to wire the LEDs? If wiring all in parallel, the highest fV of any string is 18V. The LDD needs 3V, so you need a PSU which will give at least 21V (48V will do, but 21V is the most effecient). If wiring them with 2 in series, the highest fV becomes 36V. With 3V for the LDD that gives 39V and the 36V meanwell SE series can be adjusted to anywhere between 32.4 & 39.6V so will happily cover 2 in series.

In fact the 48V can be adjusted up to 52.8V so would even drive 3 in series, so you could, if you wished, drive three from one set of LDDs.

Tim

[banthonyb71]

I am starting out with just the two Lumia for now. So I will wire those two in parralel. later when I buy the third I will wire all 3 in series. with 48volt power supply

[Idefixes]

How are you going to wire the LEDs? If wiring all in parallel, the highest fV of any string is 18V. The LDD needs 3V, so you need a PSU which will give at least 21V (48V will do, but 21V is the most effecient). If wiring them with 2 in series, the highest fV becomes 36V. With 3V for the LDD that gives 39V and the 36V meanwell SE series can be adjusted to anywhere between 32.4 & 39.6V so will happily cover 2 in series.

In fact the 48V can be adjusted up to 52.8V so would even drive 3 in series, so you could, if you wished, drive three from one set of LDDs.

Tim

Hi tim,

LDD-H has 52V max output voltage so 3X18V=54V exceed this 52V, i would'nt wire three in serie on a LDD....

Marc

[banthonyb71]

Hi tim,

LDD-H has 52V max output voltage so 3X18V=54V exceed this 52V, i would'nt wire three in serie on a LDD....

Marc

So wire 2 in series and one by itself? what will be the voltage then off the power supply?

[perkint]

LDD-H has 52V max output voltage so 3X18V=54V exceed this 52V, i would'nt wire three in serie on a LDD....
Sorry - you are right :o Bad advice on my part there!

So wire 2 in series and one by itself? what will be the voltage then off the power supply?
2 in series needs 39V input so the 36V SE PSUs suggested earlier will do the job.

Tim

[oreo57]

So wire 2 in series and one by itself? what will be the voltage then off the power supply?

Personal opinion:
Just get 5 drivers for each chip.
Run 1,2,3 whatever in parallel..

A large 24V ps to match 3 chips watt output..

Reason being 1)1500mA Ldd's can only be found in Ldd-l's w/ lower voltage maximums..
2) Easier to match a power supply .. assume at most 5A per chip @24V (real power could be 1/2 this) 15A PS @ 24V
(quick calculation: 3.6A per chip)

A cheap one:
http://www.amazon.com/Switching-Power-Supply-Transformer-Regulated/dp/B006QSOF60
Not recommended but for reference

Get a bigger one and add a 4th someday..
http://www.banggood.com/Switching-Power-Supply-110220V-To-24V-20A-480W-For-LED-Strip-Light-p-968311.html?currency=USD&utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_content=saul&utm_campaign=Led-bulb-us&gclid=CIrci_r8q8QCFQsFaQodhRIAmA

There is no need to run the whites and blues at 1500mA though. thought I'd throw that in.. 1000mA would be fine.

[banthonyb71]

So if you run them in parallel the wattage stays the same? but if ran in series its wattage x # of chips?

[oreo57]

So if you run them in parallel the wattage stays the same? but if ran in series its wattage x # of chips?
no the voltage stays the same.. the amp draw is additive...

w=VxA

Either way the watts increase as you add chips.

Minor point is lower voltage high watt power supplies are cheaper than higher voltage high watt power supplies.Generally speaking

I'm considering vendor to vendor not quality here

[banthonyb71]

also if channels 2 and 3 are 1500 mh, then why Im I only using a 1000mh driver?

[oreo57]

also if channels 2 and 3 are 1500 mh, then why Im I only using a 1000mh driver?

There are no ldd drivers higher than 1000mA that can handle more voltage than 36V mostly..

2 Lumia's in series is At, roughly 36V ..Voltages add in series. Running all in parallel allows you to use the LDD1500-L.

Just remeber, sometime what you can run something at is not always what you should run something at.. ;)

[banthonyb71]

So stay with the 100h drivers unless I want to run my leds at 1500mh in which case it is not recommended?

[oreo57]

So stay with the 100h drivers unless I want to run my leds at 1500mh in which case it is not recommended?

your choice will depend more on how you set them up. Putting 2 chips in series and you can't use ldd-ls (36v maax BUT since they lose voltage to get 36v out you need 38(9) (2-3V "loss" across the LDD) power supply

If you run ALL in parallel you can use LDD1500-L's
The difference is loss of light output but loss of heating as well. Technically most LED's are more efficient at lower drive currents (more lumens/watt) at the cost of gross output (loss of Watts so to speak).
A made up example:
at 700mA a 3v LED has an output of 120 lumens/watt
at 1000mA a 3.4v LED (voltage increases thus increasing amp draw) has an output efficieny of 100lumens/watt

diode A 252 lumens
diode b 340 lumens IT should be 408 if it kept the same "efficiency" as diode a

But diode a runs cooler.. ;)

Note: diode a and b are the same diode at different currents.. Couldn't think of a better way to do this fast.
Note 2: It is not "quite" this simple but good enough.

[perkint]

To put it simply - one LED at 1000mA will output less light and more heat than two of exactly the same LEDs at 500mA. So you get more light per watt. And, if you want to be picky (as I usually do) you need less cooling as you have less heat and the fact that things are cooler actually improves the amount of light per watt, again :)

Tim

[banthonyb71]

what is ldd-ls?

[oreo57]

what is ldd-ls?


Ldd-l 's... ;)
http://www.meanwell.com/search/LDD-L/LDD-L-spec.pdf

@ series Ldd-H (higher voltage)
Ldd-L
Which really has a few different "forms" See spec sheet.. pg2 for the higher Amp ones.

you have to be careful since their wiring configurations can differ..

Some boards can only do LDD-H's ect..

There not as "neat" but no reason you can't just use "W" versions of each.. which have simple "wires" than pins for board mounting..

[mkj]

LOL. talk about over thinking things. If you ordered what I suggested on first page your lights would be built by now. Quote form Einstein " the easiest, quickest way, is always the right way, even if there are other way to do it". (just like my love making)

Either of the two ways parallel or serial will adjust from 100% to 0%. I use serial and have all special lightning and whatever. I use 4 Lumias on 2 PS with 2 boards, 6 700 LDDs and 4 1000 LDDs + reafangel for controller. All ordered form same place except reefangel (one shipping cost). No problems and takes less than 5 minutes to put together. no need to overthink and make yourself confused about which way is best "there is no best".

Goof luck with your build whichever way you decide to do it. :spin1:

Lets see if this thread can hit 100 replies for no reason.

[banthonyb71]

If you ordered what I suggested on first page your lights would be built by now.

Lets see if this thread can hit 100 replies for no reason.

bro, you are waay off base here. for one, if you look at the last few posts, people have been trying to help me understand voltage, amps, series parrallel. great info for me to know regaurdless of what drivers I choose.

You on the other hand are implying that I should just listen to you and not ask questions. Why? because I know you? What makes your advice any different from the next person that suggested something totally different? See thats what some of you experienced guys dont quite understand on these forums when dealing with newbies.

You give a person a piece of advice and he doesn't follow it, but follows the next guy's. You get offended, sarcastic. as if this new person should magically know your way is best over the next persons??

Really no need to get sarcastic...but since you did...let me see if I can try that game.

Let's start by counting how many times you said "I think" when suggesting what I should do.

[B]

The 250watt will be fine with two 5.2s but I think the amps may be a problem with trying to use three Lumias on that PS. The one set of LDDs will be doing 4.1amps if maxed (3X700 + 2X1000), which is fine for that PS but add a second set of LDDs and amps go over that PS I think.

I think with two sets of boards/LDDs you need to double that 4.1 amps to 8.2 amps which is over that PS you quoted but Im not sure if amps doubles or not with second board/LDDs on the same PS.

Personally I would use the 250 watt PS on two but I would get a second PS when/if order the third Lumia. Or, order the 500 watt that has 10.4amps. Overkill for two Lumias but good for three I think.

read http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2372156 . Aqualund built a large one using many Lumias



Now bro, I appreciate your advice. I really do..and I'm not sure if what you said is right or wrong.....but my mother once told me, if you stop to ask for directions and the person says "I think it's....." or It's this way but I'm not sure." Kicks rocks and go ask the next person"!!

Just saying.

So please bro..I already know what drivers, boards etc. still haven't picked out a PS but nobody is over thinking anything just trying to understand as much as possible and I'd appreciate you not detouring help away.http://www.forumsextreme.com/images3/Smilies_Signs_ThisIsSparta.gif

[banthonyb71]

for every one who has offered advice, Idefix, Perkint, Jedi, Mkj and everyone else including those who helped outside this thread AquAlund, Oreo. Please understand it is not a lack of taking advice as to the reason this thread is still open as Mkj suggested.
I think it would be foolish to try not to understand something as much as possible.

hopefully nobody has been pushed off to answer but another question.

(again, this has nothing to do with the power supply Im going to purchase. I understand I know 180 watt PS is not enough0 but just for understanding

on LED GB website. they state" We have taken the original Lumia 5.1 and expanded on it by adding a range of High End CREE LEDs. These CREE LEDs produce more light for less power. For instance, you can power 2 of the CREE Lumia 5.2 with only 5 LDD drivers and 1 180w power supply.

If all 5 channels equals 4.1 amp then why are they suggesting 3.75 amp PS? is 400mh or so not enough to make a difference?

[Idefixes]

on LED GB website. they state" We have taken the original Lumia 5.1 and expanded on it by adding a range of High End CREE LEDs. These CREE LEDs produce more light for less power. For instance, you can power 2 of the CREE Lumia 5.2 with only 5 LDD drivers and 1 180w power supply.

If all 5 channels equals 4.1 amp then why are they suggesting 3.75 amp PS? is 400mh or so not enough to make a difference?

Maybe they use a 5 LDD700H route => 5x 700ma=3.5Amp, but then you don't obtain 70W per lumia.

Marc

[perkint]

5 channels is 4.1A on the output. Assuming 3 x 700mA and 2 x 1000mA. But that is about 70W. So two is 140W. How much current this will draw from your PSU depends on the voltage of the PSU. If you ran the two in parallel from a 24V supply (10 LDDs) or two in series from a 36V supply (5 LDDs and PSU adjusted to 39V) then you would be using less than 150W total so drawing just over 6A from 24V and just over 4A from a 36V.

Tim

[Idefixes]

5 channels is 4.1A on the output. Assuming 3 x 700mA and 2 x 1000mA. But that is about 70W. So two is 140W. How much current this will draw from your PSU depends on the voltage of the PSU. If you ran the two in parallel from a 24V supply (10 LDDs) or two in series from a 36V supply (5 LDDs and PSU adjusted to 39V) then you would be using less than 150W total so drawing just over 6A from 24V and just over 4A from a 36V.

Tim

Perkint in LGB assumption they use to Lumia in serie as they said

you can power 2 of the CREE Lumia 5.2 with only 5 LDD drivers so power supply output doesn't be lower as 2x18Vf+3v(LDD)=>39V. If they had parralleling them on PSU 10LDD were needed and then Voltage needed will be 18Vf+3V(LDD)= 21V. A 24V PSU will needed and as 5 ldd are in parallel => 4.1+4.1=8.2Ax24V=>196W. Yes if they are not used at 100% rating lower power can go but it's IMO not a safe way to act. SMPS have a lost between 10 and 20% power so for 8.1A needed PSU must be rated at min 8.1x1.2= 9.72A. If you select PSU at 21V => 9.72x21=204W for 2 lumia in parallel à 100%

Marc

[oreo57]

on LED GB website. they state" We have taken the original Lumia 5.1 and expanded on it by adding a range of High End CREE LEDs. These CREE LEDs produce more light for less power. For instance, you can power 2 of the CREE Lumia 5.2 with only 5 LDD drivers and 1 180w power supply.

If all 5 channels equals 4.1 amp then why are they suggesting 3.75 amp PS? is 400mh or so not enough to make a difference?

Maybe they use a 5 LDD700H route => 5x 700ma=3.5Amp, but then you don't obtain 70W per lumia.

Marc

Because the "actual" watts (amps) is based on the actual drive current x the actual voltage.

LED's are not static devices. As voltage across them increases amp draw increases.

@ 500ma the voltage may be3.25V
@ 700mA 3.5V
@ at 1500ma 3.6V

W/ 5 in series:
8.12W
12.25W
27W respectively

W/ a 24V ps you would need it rated at
.33A (7.92W)
.51A (12.24W)
1.125 (27W)

The theoretical (or max) may be 5 but the "actual" (based on the actual voltages at the selected drive current) is quite different.

since a single chip is 5 parallel rows you just add the actual calculated from each row.

Simple adding Ldd amps is sort of a rule of thumb.. Only met when the actual LED series string voltage equals the actual power supply voltage (of course w/ the 2-3V "loss" of an ldd this is not really possible anyways)
AFAICT.. ;)

[perkint]

A 24V PSU will needed and as 5 ldd are in parallel => 4.1+4.1=8.2Ax24V=>196W. Yes if they are not used at 100% rating lower power can go but it's IMO not a safe way to act. SMPS have a lost between 10 and 20% power so for 8.1A needed PSU must be rated at min 8.1x1.2= 9.72A. If you select PSU at 21V => 9.72x21=204W for 2 lumia in parallel à 100%
As oreo57 said, it doesn't work like that. Even at 100% across all channels a lumia 5.2 will not draw 4.1A if running thru LDDs on a single PSU as some strings are lower voltage and therefore will not be pulling the same current from the PSU as the LDD is outputting to the LEDs.

If you ran a single 3W LED from an LDD1000 on a 48V PSU it would only draw 63mA from the supply! Well, plus a bit for the LDD, but nowhere near 1000mA!

Tim

[Idefixes]

As oreo57 said, it doesn't work like that. Even at 100% across all channels a lumia 5.2 will not draw 4.1A if running thru LDDs on a single PSU as some strings are lower voltage and therefore will not be pulling the same current from the PSU as the LDD is outputting to the LEDs.

If you ran a single 3W LED from an LDD1000 on a 48V PSU it would only draw 63mA from the supply! Well, plus a bit for the LDD, but nowhere near 1000mA!

Tim

For sure time but when you dimension the system imo the better thing is to do is to consider the system maximum rating and not a hypothetique using point instead of you can have bad surprise. Vf i use are vf LGB one at full led amp rating. LDD are constant current source so if you use a LDD700H (@100% PWM) on a led it will push 650mA through this. It's clear if the led is alone power consumption will be 0.65xVf @ 650mA only. I am aware with all your math and know what you stated but for dimensionning the system, consideringhis max rating will allow more safety marge in.I see number of smps (even meanwell) brake down even with use under half power : many time resistor burned, sometimes inductor, many other time heat dry or brake down low quality electrolytics...

Marc

[oreo57]

For sure time but when you dimension the system imo the better thing is to do is to consider the system maximum rating and not a hypothetique using point instead of you can have bad surprise. Vf i use are vf LGB one at full led amp rating. LDD are constant current source so if you use a LDD700H (@100% PWM) on a led it will push 650mA through this. It's clear if the led is alone power consumption will be 0.65xVf @ 650mA only. I am aware with all your math and know what you stated but for dimensioning the system, considering his max rating will allow more safety marge in.I see number of smps (even meanwell) brake down even with use under half power : many time resistor burned, sometimes inductor, many other time heat dry or brake down low quality electrolytics...

Marc

your points are valid BUT you have to consider "real" maximum vs "theoretical" maximum.
As an example my "rule of thumb".. Just add driver mA's and size the power supply accordingly. Problem is this could be well over 50% higher than the REAL maximum..

As to low quality electrolytics, personally, nothing will prevent their breakdown. It will only marginally extend their life.. "Capacitor rot" is still alive and well.
I believe they now have it down to a science in order to do the "planned obsolescence"..

My personal conspiracy theory. They know exactly where to place the "cheap" ones in order to kill the product in x amount of time..

[perkint]

For sure time but when you dimension the system imo the better thing is to do is to consider the system maximum rating and not a hypothetique using point instead of you can have bad surprise. Vf i use are vf LGB one at full led amp rating. LDD are constant current source so if you use a LDD700H (@100% PWM) on a led it will push 650mA through this. It's clear if the led is alone power consumption will be 0.65xVf @ 650mA only. I am aware with all your math and know what you stated but for dimensionning the system, consideringhis max rating will allow more safety marge in.I see number of smps (even meanwell) brake down even with use under half power : many time resistor burned, sometimes inductor, many other time heat dry or brake down low quality electrolytics
I think i know what you mean, but i don't understand this bit: "Vf i use are vf LGB one at full led amp rating". Specifically LGB?

But, i think i now understand what you are saying. Correct me if i misunderstand, but i think you mean, for an increased safety factor you would design the system around the maximum it would be possible to draw, if (for example) you decided to add a few more LEDs to the strings. Not the maximum the config you intend to build will use. If that is what you mean, i wouldn't argue against it if someone wanted to do that, so long as they were doing it deliberately and knowing that they were over engineering for extra safety measures allowing for future expansion.

In fact, the build i am (slowly!) working on involves the same 350W PSU linked earlier, for a design (currently) with a max power of about 150W!!

Tim

[banthonyb71]

Thank you. So how did you guys learn this stuff? Do you have a background in electronics? Did anyone learn just from doing LED lights?


My final question related to power supply. does the voltage of the power supply always have to match voltage of chips? say if you had 48 watt power supply, you would always have to wire leds to come a close to 48 volts? or can it be under 48?

[oreo57]

Did anyone learn just from doing LED lights?

I did. It is amazing the things you teach yourself so you don't burn down your house.. ;)
Or watch smoking things consume your checkbook.

My final question related to power supply. does the voltage of the power supply always have to match voltage of chips? say if you had 48 watt power supply, you would always have to wire leds to come a close to 48 volts? or can it be under 48?

Well it depends on the drivers for one.. but w/ LDD's and related types.. No you just need the voltage for the LED's and the plus 2-3V for the LDD's. any extra is err extra.

Matching increases power supply efficiency but not really necessary. That said you really don't want one 3V led on a 48V power supply.

different ones look different but the principal of efficiency is to fall in the sweet spot.. if you can.
Running say different strings w/ different voltages is err. difficult to do unless you aim for watts..
http://img.hexus.net/v2/TekSpek/80_PLUS/80plus-cert-chart.gif
A computer power supply. Principal remains the same..

[banthonyb71]

looks like around 50% max efficiency a?

[perkint]

I did. It is amazing the things you teach yourself so you don't burn down your house.. ;)
Or watch smoking things consume your checkbook
LOL - me too :) Nearest I've come to electronics before building things for the tank has been the odd DIY repair and building/repairing lots of PCs but that doesn't really count, as they're just mechano kits! :)
looks like around 50% max efficiency a?
That one is, yeah. I thought generally is was usually around 80% on normal PSUs (that one is a PC PSU) but I couldn't find any charts for the meanwell ones I have :(

Personally, I think there is more to gain by making sure you buy a quality PSU and making sure you don't drive it too hard for sustained periods, than worrying too much about aiming to drive it at its most efficient.

Tim

[oreo57]

LOL - me too :) Nearest I've come to electronics before building things for the tank has been the odd DIY repair and building/repairing lots of PCs but that doesn't really count, as they're just mechano kits! :)

That one is, yeah. I thought generally is was usually around 80% on normal PSUs (that one is a PC PSU) but I couldn't find any charts for the meanwell ones I have :(

Personally, I think there is more to gain by making sure you buy a quality PSU and making sure you don't drive it too hard for sustained periods, than worrying too much about aiming to drive it at its most efficient.

Tim

The Meanwell "types" I remember are fairly flat. They still have that sharp climb in the beginning (10-20%) but don't drop nearly as much as that big computer supply..Hitting 50% of max or above w/ a buffer at the end, is still a "rule of thumb" sweet spot.
I actually think many top out much higher too.. 90-ish..
Of course every one is slightly different.

[banthonyb71]

I did. It is amazing the things you teach yourself so you don't burn down your house.. ;)
Or watch smoking things consume your checkbook.


Well it depends on the drivers for one.. but w/ LDD's and related types.. No you just need the voltage for the LED's and the plus 2-3V for the LDD's. any extra is err extra.

Matching increases power supply efficiency but not really necessary. That said you really don't want one 3V led on a 48V power supply.

different ones look different but the principal of efficiency is to fall in the sweet spot.. if you can.
Running say different strings w/ different voltages is err. difficult to do unless you aim for watts..
http://img.hexus.net/v2/TekSpek/80_PLUS/80plus-cert-chart.gif
A computer power supply. Principal remains the same..

In car audio, If I put a 12 volt radio on a 24 volt battery, I would fry the battery. Why is this not the case?

[oreo57]

In car audio, If I put a 12 volt radio on a 24 volt battery, I would fry the battery. Why is this not the case?
did you mean fry the radio??

The LDD is a "voltage regulator" so to speak..

[banthonyb71]

did you mean fry the radio??
.

lol. yes I did. sorry. thanks again.

[banthonyb71]

I made the order for my lights. still no power supply. Im torn between oreo advice to get 24 20amp supply but Aqualund advice to stay with mean well that will last. Only I cant find a mean well power supply 350 watts but 20 amps. Oreo, you mentioned in pm to not use 36v 10 amp and series parrallel. especially when I'd use less drivers this way?

I only ordered 10 drivers for now, enough to do 2 for now. but I do want a power supply that will last a while.

I PROMISE THIS WILL BE MY LAST POST ON THIS THREAD TILL I PROVIDE PICS!

DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME.http://www.forumsextreme.com/images3/sFun_microwave.gif

[Aqualund]

In car audio, If I put a 12 volt radio on a 24 volt battery, I would fry the battery. Why is this not the case?

And also because your car radio isn't made up of LED's. Thats the short answer...the long answer is that the components that first come into contact with the radio power source are designed for 12V potential max...where as an led looks for a minimum of 3V to turn on...and then passes the rest out the other side to the next led...it's all in the fundamental design of an led or a basic diode for that matter.

Start to get into physics and such...for now you just need to know it doesnt fry them :)

Now, more than 1500mA current and we can start discussing frying them :)

[Aqualund]

I made the order for my lights. still no power supply. Im torn between oreo advice to get 24 20amp supply but Aqualund advice to stay with mean well that will last. Only I cant find a mean well power supply 350 watts but 20 amps. Oreo, you mentioned in pm to not use 36v 10 amp and series parrallel. especially when I'd use less drivers this way?

I only ordered 10 drivers for now, enough to do 2 for now. but I do want a power supply that will last a while.

I PROMISE THIS WILL BE MY LAST POST ON THIS THREAD TILL I PROVIDE PICS!

DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME.http://www.forumsextreme.com/images3/sFun_microwave.gif

You do not need 20Amps oh my gawd.

You will be just fine with like 600 Watts max and maybe...maybe 10 Amps. You are just starting...start with simple and small and be prepared to break stuff as you learn.

[oreo57]

You do not need 20Amps oh my gawd.

You will be just fine with like 600 Watts max and maybe...maybe 10 Amps. You are just starting...start with simple and small and be prepared to break stuff as you learn.
Actually the point was to plan ahead for 4 Lumina's in total..
I suggested just running each in parallel (eventually 20 drivers)

Which is why it was a 24V power supply w/ enough watts to handle 4 eventually..
I also said that that was based on using 1500mA drivers on 2 channels..
I believe the actual figure was 3.2A per chip (86W per chip, 344W for 4 chips..) .. but 'just" based on the face value of the LDD's..5.1A

IF you want to plan for 4 chips
Running 4 in series requires 4x the voltage 72V but still only 5A
Running 4 in parallel requires 4x the amps 20A but still only 1x the voltage 18v
Running 2 in series and 2 sets in parallel requires 2x voltage 36V and 2x the amps 10A

You can check the math based on these parameters per chip:
Channel 1 - 3 Hyper Violet and 2 CREE XT-E Royal Blue (Actinic channel) (18v @ 700mA)
Channel 2 - Royal Blue (base blue spectrum) (16.5V @ 1500mA)
Channel 3 - 3 XT-E Netural White and 2 XT-E Warm White (base white color) (16.5V @ 1500mA)
Channel 4 - Turquoise / CREE XPE2 Blue (enhanced color spectrum) (17.2V @ 700mA)
Channel 5 - 3 Hyper Violet (430nm) and 2 True Violet (410nm) (Violet channel) (18v @ 700mA) *as of June 1st 2014

A 10A 48V ps is equiv to a 20A 24v ps..........Same watts....
Running the ps at greater than 50% and less than 70% would be a theoretical sweet spot for efficiency..
If any of this is wrong, or I missed something, please correct it..

PS is not any bigger than an average computer power supply

14.3A ps @ 24 is, I believe full utilization.. w/ no extra. 15.7A @ 24V would add a 10% headroom in Watts..

[banthonyb71]

Im running 2 for now. and get a 3rd for sure. the fourth is only if I upgrade and like the leds themselves. I dont want a overly cheap supply. I thought the se350 wouldnt be enough amps. 7.3 to 8.2? oh well. I made up mind now. ill order se350 and just worry about the 2 lumias for now. thanks Oreo, Aqualund again

[banthonyb71]

14.3 at 24 amps is better sweet spot? if they have it in meanwell i grab that one

[oreo57]

14.3A at 24VOLTS is better sweet spot? if they have it in meanwell i grab that one

That would not include a fair buffer
Better:
15.7A @ 24V would add a 10% headroom in Watts
Better than 14.3 not 15.7 (350W)
Can be trimmed to 20V to improve efficiency..
http://www.onlinecomponents.com/mean-well-se35024.html?p=43123162&utm_content=F6xHtb5l&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Shopping+4&utm_term=&cshift_ck=2E2254D6-5A48-413E-859F-D58991DDDA55csF6xHtb5l

bigger and fancier.. and more expensive (450W):
http://www.onlinecomponents.com/mean-well-hrp45024.html?p=40874942&utm_content=F6xHtb5l&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Shopping+4&utm_term=&cshift_ck=2E2254D6-5A48-413E-859F-D58991DDDA55csF6xHtb5l

Tough call.. (except based on price).
IF you are only using (for now) 3 Lumina's ps #1 is more than enough.
If/when you add a 4th.. PS 1 (350W) looks borderline a bit.. BUT if you use 1000mA in place of the 1500mA you will add headroom and #1 is just fine..

If you do do the 1500mA's for 3 chips and then decide to add a 4th, Swapping out those drivers (2X3) is cheaper than the added cost of THAT meanwell higher watt power supply ($50 vs $65)

Like I said, the 4 may be fine at 350W...but it looks close.
you may never need or add the 4th chip. That said you may not "need" 1500mA drivers as compared to 1000mA. I believe the "loss" was around 16W per chip..

2 chips is only 172w
Anyone else care to check this?

[perkint]

Personally, at that price, I'd go for the meanwell SE whichever you are doing. Running 4 with LDD1000s as the highest and it is fine :) Running 4 with LDD1500s as the highest (which requires new LDD boards!)? Buy two SE PSU supplies and run 2 on each :p

And if you are running 2 or 3 with 1000 or 1500 as the highest, one SE PSU is fine :)

Tim

[Aqualund]

Yeah but we are talking about someone who has never done this before and will definitely have hiccups along the way as he learns how everything goes together.

He needs to first assemble a simple system with bare bones and have success (after many failures) and then start tweaking from there.

I'm sure all of this stuff is breezing right over his head anyways...it's not an easy concept to grasp without formal training...or many years of tinkering.

[banthonyb71]

im using "2" for now. I 3rd for sure but only 2 now.

I already ordered 1000h. so I should have got 1500H? which one is best?

I want best PS for 2 chips. So what PS that I can use 3 and 4?

So 1 PS for 2 Lumia.

2nd PS. for 3rd but maybe 4th. What ratings to get? but only ordering 1 PS and 2 Lumia's until atleast this build is over tank

[jedimasterben]

How tall is your tank? I can't find anything concrete from looking back through your posts. If your tank is under 24" tall, then more than likely you won't even be exceeding 700mA on the LEDs.

[oreo57]

im using "2" for now. I 3rd for sure but only 2 now.

I already ordered 1000h. so I should have got 1500H? which one is best?

I want best PS for 2 chips. So what PS that I can use 3 and 4?

So 1 PS for 2 Lumia.

2nd PS. for 3rd but maybe 4th. What ratings to get? but only ordering 1 PS and 2 Lumia's until atleast this build is over tank

This works for 1-4 Luminas in parallel..
http://www.onlinecomponents.com/datasheet/se35024.aspx?p=43123162

There are no LDD1500-H's just LDD1500-L's Mixing "h" series and "l" series just complicates things..

There are more "choices" than "bests".... ;)

Your only major choice is parallel or series/parallel.
Drawback to parallel. more wire, more drivers
Advantage small voltage power supply

series/parallel
Drawback larger voltage power supply more expensive at the current needed
Advantage less wire, less drivers.
On your very first post you had it close to correct w a few tweaks... Don't over think this.

All anyone really needs to know is voltage adds in series. Amps add in parallel
and
W=V*A

[banthonyb71]

forgot about this one se35048 right. (the link had 9 models of the 350) took a second

[banthonyb71]

as I was saying I went to micro center and grabbed a arduino starter kit and hopefully I can brush up on some electronic skills that way:reading:

[oreo57]

as I was saying I went to micro center and grabbed a arduino starter kit and hopefully I can brush up on some electronic skills that way:reading:

Barely crawling and trying to run.. ;) Just a joke.
Just get a Storm or storm X Later you can reprogram them to your hearts desire..

[banthonyb71]

Barely crawling and trying to run.. ;) Just a joke.
Just get a Storm or storm X Later you can reprogram them to your hearts desire..

Thia will come easier to me than you might think. Ive been in car audio 15 years. wiring will be a breeze for me. im already half 1 through the first arduino project. would be done if I had 5 more 220ohm resistors for all seeing eye.

its just in mobile electronics never really needed to know any other voltage other than 12. no reading amerage other than of relays. really no need to even read ohms law. so yes it might take a second to understand the jargon

[banthonyb71]

how fitting it was that I was the one hundred and first reply:)

[oreo57]

Thia will come easier to me than you might think. Ive been in car audio 15 years. wiring will be a breeze for me. im already half 1 through the first arduino project. would be done if I had 5 more 220ohm resistors for all seeing eye.

its just in mobile electronics never really needed to know any other voltage other than 12. no reading amerage other than of relays. really no need to even read ohms law. so yes it might take a second to understand the jargon

It is not the hardware but the software part that is.. err.. taxing..

[Tacostrk]

Hate to bump an older thread but it's relevant to a question I have. What power supply specs would I need for running two lumia 5.2s in series and one more on its own to just use two sets of 5 ldd drivers?

[oreo57]

Hate to bump an older thread but it's relevant to a question I have. What power supply specs would I need for running two lumia 5.2s in series and one more on its own to just use two sets of 5 ldd drivers?


Layout:
Channel 1 - 3 Hyper Violet and 2 CREE XT-E Royal Blue (Actinic channel) (18v @ 700mA)
Channel 2 - Royal Blue (base blue spectrum) (16.5V @ 1500mA)
Channel 3 - 3 XT-E Netural White and 2 XT-E Warm White (base white color) (16.5V @ 1500mA)
Channel 4 - Turquoise / CREE XPE2 Blue (enhanced color spectrum) (17.2V @ 700mA)
Channel 5 - 3 Hyper Violet (430nm) and 2 True Violet (410nm) (Violet channel) (18v @ 700mA) *as of June 1st 2014


Assuming you are going to use LDD-h's so max current/driver is 1000mA,

4100mA per set of 5..
8200mA for 2 sets.
Figure 9-10A

Then add the voltages in the series 2 to get max V needed..
18x 2 = 36V.. Add Driver differential of 3V and round up.. 39V = 48V

48V 10 A
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&productId=2225094&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&CID=GOOG&gclid=CMLWxcnm9swCFU88gQod0mMADg

[jedimasterben]

Assuming you are going to use LDD-h's so max current/driver is 1000mA,

4100mA per set of 5..
8200mA for 2 sets.
Figure 9-10A

Then add the voltages in the series 2 to get max V needed..
18x 2 = 36V.. Add Driver differential of 3V and round up.. 39V = 48V

48V 10 A
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&productId=2225094&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&CID=GOOG&gclid=CMLWxcnm9swCFU88gQod0mMADg

You're recommending a 480w power supply? Uh, what? Each Lumia 5.2 is about 70w maximum, times three is 210w. Give 20% extra wattage, and you get 252w, so a 250w supply is fine.

[oreo57]

You're recommending a 480w power supply? Uh, what? Each Lumia 5.2 is about 70w maximum, times three is 210w. Give 20% extra wattage, and you get 252w, so a 250w supply is fine.

Yea, doing the real calculations is much better. I just added the Ldd output
though each will have a much lower real wattage..Like you stated:
135W for the 2 in series
68W for the one
I'd give 25% headroom so 300W (getting closer to 450.. ;))

6A works fine... ;)
Or this:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/NES-350-48/?qs=wWxCkh6mprxAfMA9pUwKHw%3D%3D&gclid=COOBsY7e98wCFciFfgodM8oMrA

10a Gives lots of room for expansion.. ;)

[Horace]

i JUST finisehed my lumia 5.2 build.....

here is my build on our local club forums --- http://atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=105242

[Horace]

Yea, doing the real calculations is much better. I just added the Ldd output
though each will have a much lower real wattage..Like you stated:

I'd give 25% headroom so 300W (getting closer to 450.. ;))

6A works fine... ;)
Or this:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/NES-350-48/?qs=wWxCkh6mprxAfMA9pUwKHw%3D%3D&gclid=COOBsY7e98wCFciFfgodM8oMrA

10a Gives lots of room for expansion.. ;)

I went with 180w for each pair of Lumias... that should be more than sufficent. If I want to add more lumias, I will just buy more...not a big deal

[oreo57]

I went with 180w for each pair of Lumias... that should be more than sufficent. If I want to add more lumias, I will just buy more...not a big deal

for the $100 for the 10A ps you could go from 3 to 1 power supply... ;)

[Horace]

I've got 6 Lumia so I didn't have much choice. 180w was better

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[Tacostrk]

Awesome thanks for all the quick replies. I was already planning on the meanwell nes-350-48 so I'm probably going this route just glad to be reaffirmed in my choices.

[Tacostrk]

Also I'm planning on supplementing with two 36 in t5s on my 40g breeder. Should I bother going with the let micro dimmable fixtures or just standard ballasts? I will be using the o2 surplus boards with bluefish mini.

[Horace]

Also I'm planning on supplementing with two 36 in t5s on my 40g breeder. Should I bother going with the let micro dimmable fixtures or just standard ballasts? I will be using the o2 surplus boards with bluefish mini.
I have same boards...they are freggin sweet. That board alone makes the build easy and super clean. I don't know why he doesn't distribute them through the led dealers

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