Can I use just deionized water instead of RODI?

[SaltLifeCam]

What is the difference? (obviously RO is better) But is it that much better? I can get DI water easily and it seems to be much cheaper. Wondering if I could just use that instead..?

Thanks

[jmowbray]

Not sure why it would be cheaper. In fact I would think it would be more expensive. The reason being RO/DI water is water that is passed through an RO membrane then through deionization resin which gives 0tds water. If filtered through just DI resin the resin would be consumed at a fast rate and would be very costly to replace. If it is in fact DI water in the end that's water you need or should have anyway.

[disc1]

Usually the DI water you buy has been through RO before it was deionized. In the lab we just call it DI water even though it has been through RO/DI.

It would be pretty dumb to run DI without RO first. That would get really expensive really fast. The DI resin would burn up in no time flat.

[Josh40996]

Ill confess that I only use DI water, not RO/DI. My Father works a machine which requires large amounts 0 TDS water and so uses a DI resin to purify tap water. He has lots left over which would otherwise be thrown away, so he gives me the leftover when ever he needs to replace the resin in the machine. For me, the resin lasts several months before I need to replace the cartridge and the TDS goes above 0. Fortunately for me, my tap water has a TDS of 32 (just tested) and I only have a 55 gallon reef and a 15 gallon freshwater that I also use DI water for.

So it isn't always expensive to just use DI resin.

Happy Reefin!

[disc1]

If you had to pay for the stuff it would be...

That's like saying it isn't expensive to put gas in an SUV because you get your gas for free somehow. Well whoop-de-doo for you but the rest of us have to pay for it.

[Spar]

the cost per gallon RO/DI produced would still be significantly cheaper if you added prefilters, carbon and RO prior to going to the DI. it just will take much much longer to make up for the fixed costs of the RO/DI setup if only producing enough water for small tanks. after some period of time, the cost will catch up though.

32 TDS is very nice! my water is 450 :( obviously DI would be gone in a matter of minutes with that. but even at my 15 TDS post-RO, my DI gets eaten quickly. at 32 TDS, it would be double that.

[1MP3R1AL]

There is a reason 99.9% of reefers recommend rodi...
How about this, instead of buying the better vegetables and meats for you to consume, just go ahead and get the cheaper low shelf stuff. That's exactly how you would treat living animals.

[CStrickland]

You can get a tds meter for Pretty cheap if you want to be on the safe side. You'll be able to know for sure what you're getting, and if you buy your own filter setup down the road you'll need it to check the filters.

I don't think rodi is obviously better than di. 0 tds is 0 tds, it's hardly the same as low shelf meat. It's totes possible that the cheaper di is cleaner than the ro because it is ro'ed first, and they just leave the ro off the label. Like my store sells distilled for the same price a ro "drinking water" I guess it has to do with what people will pay, rather than the cost to produce? The drinking water has a picture of a beautiful mountain on it even though it's just municipal water that's been filtered, haha.

How much are they asking for di, and does the labe give any description of how it is filtered? Like mine says "processed through deionizing filter" or something.

[disc1]

The drinking water has a picture of a beautiful mountain on it even though it's just municipal water that's been filtered, haha.

The one that gets me is the one I saw at WalMart a couple of years ago. It said, "Bottled from a municipal source in Mexico."

Montezuma's revenge in a bottle. That's nice.

[gone fishin]

:lolspin:

[smedlin]

I don't know..

He didn't say the size of his tank.

If he has a little 10g nano.. well standard 10% weekly change would be a gallon a week.

You can get a gallon of DI water from wall-mart for what 88 cents (I looked it up just now).

52 gallons a year for weekly water changes = $45.76

Toss in, I don't know, 20 gallons a year for top off = $17.60

Equal a whopping $63.36.

How much does a good RO/DI unit cost? Add a booster pump. Some sort of containers.

You get the ideal...

For larger tanks, sure, it REALLY makes sense (or dollars).

But for small tanks?

.

[jmowbray]

My favorite is the Ice Mountain brand. Which also has this beautiful mountain on it as well. But it's been in some hot water as it is pulled directly from wells next to the great lakes and is causing local lakes to dry up and is having an impact on the lake levels.

[SFish]

DI will only remove charged particals. It's not going to take everything out. I think you would be better off just running prefilters and an RO rather then just a DI. The water will be purer. TDS meters only detect charged ions so if you run water through a DI you are taking the ions out and will get 0 TDS but all the stuff that doesn't have a charge in you water will just pass right through. You might as will just buy a cheap ion filter and run your water through that. The RO takes out more stuff then the DI does. The only reason the DI is there is to get the last bit that the RO can't remove.

A TDS meter will not detect any neutral (uncharged) compounds. Such compounds include sugar, alcohol, many organics (including many pesticides and their residues), and unionized forms of silica, ammonia, and carbon dioxide ect ect.

[Bpb]

Use whatever source you want, as long as it's zero tds. If you have an unlimited supply of di resin then knock yourself out. Zero tds is what you want. The method of achieving that is merely a means to an end

[SFish]

Use whatever source you want, as long as it's zero tds. If you have an unlimited supply of di resin then knock yourself out. Zero tds is what you want. The method of achieving that is merely a means to an end

You know I can get 0 TDS on rust water. Do you know what a TDS meter is? I can get dirty water that has 0 TDS.

[Bpb]

You know I can get 0 TDS on rust water. Do you know what a TDS meter is? I can get dirty water that has 0 TDS.

Lol

[SFish]

These meters also do not detect macroscopic particulates, as those are too large to move in the electric fields applied. So if you see "rusty" looking water from iron oxide particulates, that won't be measured. Neither will anything else that makes the water look cloudy. Bacteria and viruses also won't be detected.

Consequently, the term "total dissolved solids" is really quite a misnomer. "Total charged ions" is likely a much better term for what it measures. Fortunately, a measurement of total charged ions is good enough for many aquarium purposes.

Read the link below:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-04/rhf/feature/index.php

[FraggledRock]

Rodi unit is so easy to setup and use, theres really no excuse not to.

I went RODi unit and never looking back.

Bye bye carrying gallons of water in buckets across town!

[SaltLifeCam]

Thank you all for your input! As you can tell I am new to this reef keeping hobby. I was unaware that DI water is basically RODI, I had assumed that it was cheaper because I was under the impression that it was missing a whole filtering process.
As for the prices, they're not necessarily a factor in my decision.
I have only a 10 gallon so I don't want to buy a whole unit for my apartment, where do you all recommend I go to get jugs? And what brands?

I have another "newbie" question.. Is RODI water the water we get delivered to our homes for drinking or do those jugs have add chemicals?

Thank you in advance! I've been learning a lot through this forum !
Me during this whole process----> :mixed:

[SaltLifeCam]

Also, I must confess I do not have a tds meter right now.. Any recommendations on quality brands?

Price aside, I would rather buy expensive once than going cheap and buying twice (or more)!

[SFish]

Thank you all for your input! As you can tell I am new to this reef keeping hobby. I was unaware that DI water is basically RODI, I had assumed that it was cheaper because I was under the impression that it was missing a whole filtering process.
As for the prices, they're not necessarily a factor in my decision.
I have only a 10 gallon so I don't want to buy a whole unit for my apartment, where do you all recommend I go to get jugs? And what brands?

I have another "newbie" question.. Is RODI water the water we get delivered to our homes for drinking or do those jugs have add chemicals?

Thank you in advance! I've been learning a lot through this forum !
Me during this whole process----> :mixed:

RO/DI water is bad for you. You can drink RO water on the other hand.

[SFish]

Also, I must confess I do not have a tds meter right now.. Any recommendations on quality brands?

Price aside, I would rather buy expensive once than going cheap and buying twice (or more)!

http://www.analyticexpert.com/2012/08/measuring-total-dissolved-solids-tds-with-a-tds-meter/comment-page-1/

[SFish]

Also, I must confess I do not have a tds meter right now.. Any recommendations on quality brands?

Price aside, I would rather buy expensive once than going cheap and buying twice (or more)!

An inline meter will do what you need. No need to spend a lot of money.

http://www.marinedepot.com/HM_Digital_Dual_Inline_TDS_Meter_Purity_Meters_Monitors_for_RO_DI_Water_Filter_Systems-HM_Digital_Inc.-RO1312-FIROPM-vi.html

[SaltLifeCam]

Thanks for sharing that article SFish, very useful!
I'll order that meter when I get home ;)

[SaltLifeCam]

So all in all, RODI and DI water are both about equally recommended? I believe the CVS or publix by me should have DI by the jug. I'll pay attention to what the label actually SAYS not just the pics of the beautiful, flowing mountain waterfalls! :lolspin:

[SFish]

The RO does all the real work in your filter system. The DI on the other hand just finishes the job. Think about it the RO removes 96 to 98% of the TDS. It takes out non ionic and ionic stuff.

[disc1]

I'm telling you for sure, the jug that says DI water, was put through an RO before they deionized it. Businesses are there to make money, and otherwise they would surely be losing it.

Furthermore, in this sense, the word deionized refers to a property of the water (having all the ions removed) and not the process by which they got there. It is entirely possible that a company might distill water and still call it deionized.

DI resin is just one way to make deioized water. It is not the only method.

[CStrickland]

An inline meter will do what you need. No need to spend a lot of money.

http://www.marinedepot.com/HM_Digital_Dual_Inline_TDS_Meter_Purity_Meters_Monitors_for_RO_DI_Water_Filter_Systems-HM_Digital_Inc.-RO1312-FIROPM-vi.html

I hope you didn't order this, it is not the right meter for testing bottled water, it works by connecting to a rodi unit. The one for you to confirm that the water is pure is the handheld type, idk brands but I bet if you search the forum you can find some recommendations. So the same way that rodi users check the water output from their filters, you will check the output from the store's, to make sure it's all set before you use it.

I agree that buying distilled is a fine choice for a 10g. Lots of people run nano tanks this way. What I wouldn't do is get premixed salt water from an LFS, to many variables.

I'm not aware of any reason that Rodi is "bad for you" like it has toxins or whatever. Just it is so pure if you drank it all the time you wouldn't get your floride and other minerals. Plus it doesn't taste very good.

It is entirely possible that a company might distill water and still call it deionized.
And vice versa. The distilled at my local shop is made using di filters, not boiling like I thought.

[SFish]

So all in all, RODI and DI water are both about equally recommended? I believe the CVS or publix by me should have DI by the jug. I'll pay attention to what the label actually SAYS not just the pics of the beautiful, flowing mountain waterfalls! :lolspin:

I would say no. Talk to BRS and see what they tell you. Hell you can run your tank on tap water but that doesn't mean you should.

[SFish]

I hope you didn't order this, it is not the right meter for testing bottled water, it works by connecting to a rodi unit.

I don't know what your talking about I use this meter in line on my RO/DI filter.

[CStrickland]

I don't know what your talking about I use this meter in line on my RO/DI filter.

I'm sure it's fine for that, like I said it is for a filter unit. Since OP said they intend to keep buying jugs, and then you recommended this meter, I wanted them to know that it would not be fine for that.

PS asking a company that sells rodi units whether you should buy one will likely get the predicted result.

SFish, what do you think is in store bought distilled water that isn't in homemade rodi?

[SaltLifeCam]

I have been seeing the "purple labeled" walmart distilled water has been good for a lot of people, and they sell by the gallon for 46cents here! So once I can find a good tds meter I will test them because I won't mind spending a couple bucks a month for that!



I'm sure it's fine for that, like I said it is for a filter unit. Since OP said they intend to keep buying jugs, and then you recommended this meter, I wanted them to know that it would not be fine for that.

PS asking a company that sells rodi units whether you should buy one will likely get the predicted result.

SFish, what do you think is in store bought distilled water that isn't in homemade rodi?


Thanks CStrickland for clearing that up for me! I would have been that guy that orders the wrong unit and is stumped when he can't figure out how to work it!

After researching a little bit it's between the TDS-3 or HM digital COM100, there is a bit of a price difference but I have seen great reviews for both. Anyone have experience with either of these or other handhelds?

[SFish]

PS asking a company that sells rodi units whether you should buy one will likely get the predicted result.



LOL
If you do any real research you will find RO/DI water is the standard.

[SFish]

I have been seeing the "purple labeled" walmart distilled water has been good for a lot of people, and they sell by the gallon for 46cents here! So once I can find a good tds meter I will test them because I won't mind spending a couple bucks a month for that!






Thanks CStrickland for clearing that up for me! I would have been that guy that orders the wrong unit and is stumped when he can't figure out how to work it!

After researching a little bit it's between the TDS-3 or HM digital COM100, there is a bit of a price difference but I have seen great reviews for both. Anyone have experience with either of these or other handhelds?

The best thing you can do is buy RO/DI water. You may get away with using lesser water but most likely you will end up with problems.

[SFish]

I'm sure it's fine for that, like I said it is for a filter unit. Since OP said they intend to keep buying jugs, and then you recommended this meter, I wanted them to know that it would not be fine for that.


My mistake

[SFish]

SFish, what do you think is in store bought distilled water that isn't in homemade rodi?

Theoretically after the distillation the absolutely pure water is obtained. Actually, organic substances, which have similar boiling point than that of water can slip in the distilled water. To eliminate the problem of organic substances, the distillers have pre- and post water filters.

We must be careful to fully explain the term "distilled water" as it is possible, especially in simple distillation to transfer droplets of water (from the boiling bulk phase) along with the gaseous water phase (note visible steam contains small water droplets --- this is termed "wet steam" as opposed to "dry steam" which is not visible and does not contain water droplets). Water quality also depends on the microbiological burden (load/content). For "high quality" distilled water the distillation should be carried out in "inert" equipment and involve fractional distillation to eliminate water droplet carry-over from the boiling bulk phase ----- the pharmaceutical industry uses multi-distillation systems for generating very high quality distilled water since elimination of water droplet carry-over prevents microbial carry-over of either viable bacteria or endotoxins (released from dead bacteria).

Do they even have to use prefilters on distilled drinking water? Also distilled drinking water can have up to 10ppm TDS in it. Just putting a TDS meter in it and saying its 0 so it's the same is not correct. We are not talking about lab grade water distilled water and I doubt that they are double or triple distilling drinking water.

[SFish]

I'm not aware of any reason that Rodi is "bad for you" like it has toxins or whatever. Just it is so pure if you drank it all the time you wouldn't get your floride and other minerals.

RO/DI water isn't suitable to be drank and it has terrible consequences if you do drink too much of it. It seriously effects osmosis in your body and leads to an electrolyte imbalance. Things such as the ion pumps in cells (including nerve cells) become disrupted, so you get all kinds of hell breaking loose. The main risk you run is cell lysis, or your cells bursting, due to the movement of water molecules into the cell. Since RO/DI water has 0ppm TDS, then the difference in water potential between the inside and outside of a cell will be infinite, so water will constantly be diffusing into the cells, eventually, cause them to burst. This is called osmolysis. During the phases in which your body takes water into the bloodstream before it is removed by the kidneys, you will also get a huge increase in blood pressure from all the water entering your blood stream. Water should have something dissolved in it if you're going to consume it, something like electrolytes (salts) or glucose.

[tmz]

The water out of the ro/di unit is the same as the di water the OP is using. The OP uses water that has been passed through di resin; same as it would in an ro/di unit. Most don't have tap with tds of only 32tds .The ro membrane knocks down the usual 200 to 350tds in tap water by 95% or so before it hits the resin.

Off the self di water from a grocery store or pharmacy may/may not have been exposed to some copper as it was made and that may be an issue.

[homer1475]

The DI part of RO/DI water just removes the last bit of dissolved solids. The main part that removes most, but not all is the RO section.

[SFish]

The DI part of RO/DI water just removes the last bit of dissolved solids. The main part that removes most, but not all is the RO section.

This is correct

[SFish]

The water out of the ro/di unit is the same as the di water the OP is using. The OP uses water that has been passed through di resin; same as it would in an ro/di unit. Most don't have tap with tds of only 32tds .The ro membrane knocks down the usual 200 to 350tds in tap water by 95% or so before it hits the resin.

Off the self di water from a grocery store or pharmacy may/may not have been exposed to some copper as it was made and that may be an issue.

DI, RO, and RO/DI water is not the same. They don't sell RO/DI water for drinking at the store because it is bad for you.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1968730


NOT recommended. I've been on submarines for about 15 years and we use a fair amount of DI for chemistry etc in the nuke plant. One of our mechanic/chemists decided he would fill his water bottle and drink from it for about 6 hours at a time each day. Not continuous, but probably about 6 or 8 glasses each day. His intestinal track shut down and he ended up dehydrated and with diarrhea for a week.

I'll take the tap...

[disc1]

The idea that drinking DI water is bad for you is a total myth. It's not pulling ions out of your system, it is putting water in. That water gets mixed with all the other water in your body, it's not going around by itself pulling ions out of anything. To think that it could ignores everything we know about how aqueous systems work.

You don't rely on your water for minerals. Most of that comes from your food. No matter what water you choose to drink, unless it is ocean water, it is at a significantly lower osmolarity than the water in your body. Yet your body knows exactly what to do with it.

If your theory about drinking DI water was true, then it would have to be true about any water we drink. We'd all be dead.

Do you really think that if I put DI water in my mouth and swallow it that it is still pure water when it gets into my throat? It's not. It can't be. So how could it do anything to my nerves? When will my nerve cells ever be in contact with that ultra pure water?

[CStrickland]

Off the self di water from a grocery store or pharmacy may/may not have been exposed to some copper as it was made and that may be an issue.

This is a good point. I read up on that when I had a little tank and was using distiled for it. What I gathered at the time was that this is less of an issue now because the factories that still boiled using copper parts have switched to inert ones like glass and better metals. But since the purpose of the water is not reefs, they don't have a reason not to use a copper fitting here and there. This would also be true of a factory that is using rodi filters for water labelled "distiled" since it could be exposed after its purified, like at the bottling stage.

Another thing I considered was walmart's supply chain, some of the water might come from places that don't keep very careful watch over that sort of thing and there isn't any way to know. One bad batch could be a big problem. I chose to throw a little Prime in just to be safe, but I wonder if a tds meter would show copper contamination? It only takes a very small amount to disrupt a tank, and with evaporation I guess it would accumulate.

[SFish]

http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f6/drinking-rodi-water-139349.html

I also remember when I got my filter it said some where that RO/DI is not for human consumption. You can drink it but I'm not. Will you die no. Will you get sick maybe.

[SFish]

This is a good point. I read up on that when I had a little tank and was using distiled for it. What I gathered at the time was that this is less of an issue now because the factories that still boiled using copper parts have switched to inert ones like glass and better metals. But since the purpose of the water is not reefs, they don't have a reason not to use a copper fitting here and there. This would also be true of a factory that is using rodi filters for water labelled "distiled" since it could be exposed after its purified, like at the bottling stage.

Another thing I considered was walmart's supply chain, some of the water might come from places that don't keep very careful watch over that sort of thing and there isn't any way to know. One bad batch could be a big problem. I chose to throw a little Prime in just to be safe, but I wonder if a tds meter would show copper contamination? It only takes a very small amount to disrupt a tank, and with evaporation I guess it would accumulate.

I would say your best bet is not to buy water from the store. You may get away with it but you may also end up with problems because the water doesn't have to be as pure. The water at the store doesn't have to be 0 TDS. OP is better off buying water from a fish place or buying a filter and useing it for drinking water as well.

[SaltLifeCam]

Thank you everyone for all the input!

I guess I will just stick to using the walmart jugs as tipoff water only for now. I'm really not planning on buying an RO/DI unit because I live in an apartment and I do not know if I can have all those hoses and whatnot going through my apt.

That being said, where can I find RODI water for sale by the jug/gallon? Is there such a thing? I have a LFS that seems to have good quality fish and products, but I do not trust the local Petco/Petsmart/etc. so I'll check the fish store..Any online sellers or store chains that have good quality?

Does anyone have any knowledge on those handhelds I mentioned before? (TDS-3 or COM-100)

[Kyle461]

I'm not sure how clean they are but we have stations around town (Watermill Express?) that promote a "12 step method" to purification. If I remember right RO and DI were both part of the process, but I may be wrong. It was sold at $1.00 for 5 gallons.

[Kyle461]

Here's the link:

http://www.watermillexpress.com/concept/our-water/our-process/

After looking I don't see the DI step.

[skeeter_ca]

If you are just buying jugs of water you need to use a portable TDS meter like this one to make to the water is pure.

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/tds-3-handheld-tds-meter-hm-digital.html

You pour some water in a small container and put the meter in and read the TDS of the water. The inline TDS meters are designed to go inline of the RO/DI filter system to measure the TDS going through the line.

[Reefstarter2]

theres a link on home page that explains all about RO/DI and different ways of doing it , good read . its on the left hand side of page

[homer1475]

You can buy the premade salt water from Petco. I used it for a while until I got my RO/DI system. Works just fine and at 15$ for 5 gallons, it aint bad.

[tmz]

Remember a tds meter only tells you there is less 1ppm tds when it reads zero. Free metals like copper as low as 30ppb can be harmful to some corals.

[SaltLifeCam]

You can buy the premade salt water from Petco. I used it for a while until I got my RO/DI system. Works just fine and at 15$ for 5 gallons, it aint bad.


So the premixed water at petco is good? I have heard mixed reviews on them, I don't know enough to differentiate them really..if I just got premade saltwater and the freshwater jugs at petco/petsmart , I could use those for water changes and top offs?

[Bpb]

So the premixed water at petco is good? I have heard mixed reviews on them, I don't know enough to differentiate them really..if I just got premade saltwater and the freshwater jugs at petco/petsmart , I could use those for water changes and top offs?

Even if you're new you gotta see that within 10 jugs of premixed store water you'd have your own rodi filter with guaranteed perfect water for years to come. It's a no brainer. Ask 100 hobbyists what the first thing they'd buy if they started over and 99 will likely tell you they'd buy an rodi filter before they even bought the tank itself

[SaltLifeCam]

The problem with simply just getting a filter for me is that I am a college student in an apartment and I will have to move the tank in a year or so. I don't have full access to all the necessities. Is there portable RODI filters or only those that attach to hoses?

[Bpb]

They're all portable and can attatch in tons of ways including kitchen sinks and washing machine water lines. You can easily pick up a hose splitter and just hook your rodi up next to your washing machine if your apt has one in your unit. If not you can hook it up to the sink

[SFish]

Under the sink hook up would be best. Out of sight and the way. Wash room is good as well. Almost everything is a push connect. Easy to take off and take everything with you. If you ever plan on getting a bigger tank then I would pick up an RO/DI filter. Check out BRS.

[SaltLifeCam]

Ah I see. Well I know what I will be researching the rest of the day! Another "fun" weekend activity coming up :reading: :headwally: :rollface:

Do these filters run constantly 24/7 or do I turn it on when I want water and off when I have enough? I've heard they take loongg

[SFish]

Ah I see. Well I know what I will be researching the rest of the day! Another "fun" weekend activity coming up :reading: :headwally: :rollface:

Do these filters run constantly 24/7 or do I turn it on when I want water and off when I have enough? I've heard they take loongg

You only turn them on when you need them unless your running a mixing station. If you don't have a lot of room then don't worry about a mixing station and even those don't run 24/7.

http://aquarium.bulkreefsupply.com/search?asug=&view=grid&cnt=16&w=RO%2FDI

The filters are called stages. You need at least a 4 stage. If you have the money then get a 6 or 7 stage. It's all about the RO.

This will give you an idea of what's in this type of filter

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-4-stage-value-ro-di-system-75gpd-2.html

RO/DI info

http://www.reefcentral.com/index.php/rodi-faq

http://www.mrsaltwatertank.com/do-you-really-need-an-rodi-unit/

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/video/view/howto-know-when-to-change-your-rodi-filters/

http://kb.marinedepot.com/article.aspx?id=11030

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/video/view/how-to-install-an-ro-system/

This will give you an idea how an RO works

http://espwaterproducts.com/about-reverse-osmosis.htm

[tmz]

Ah I see. Well I know what I will be researching the rest of the day! Another "fun" weekend activity coming up :reading: :headwally: :rollface:

Do these filters run constantly 24/7 or do I turn it on when I want water and off when I have enough? I've heard they take loongg

They come with different flow rates. The most popular for hobbyists is produces 75 gallons per day.

Usually a storage container with a shut off float valve is used and the ro/di set up is set up to receive and process tap water as it is taken from the storage container.

[SaltLifeCam]

You only turn them on when you need them unless your running a mixing station. If you don't have a lot of room then don't worry about a mixing station and even those don't run 24/7.

http://aquarium.bulkreefsupply.com/search?asug=&view=grid&cnt=16&w=RO%2FDI

The filters are called stages. You need at least a 4 stage. If you have the money then get a 6 or 7 stage. It's all about the RO.

This will give you an idea of what's in this type of filter

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-4-stage-value-ro-di-system-75gpd-2.html

RO/DI info

http://www.reefcentral.com/index.php/rodi-faq

http://www.mrsaltwatertank.com/do-you-really-need-an-rodi-unit/

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/video/view/howto-know-when-to-change-your-rodi-filters/

http://kb.marinedepot.com/article.aspx?id=11030

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/video/view/how-to-install-an-ro-system/

This will give you an idea how an RO works

http://espwaterproducts.com/about-reverse-osmosis.htm

They come with different flow rates. The most popular for hobbyists is produces 75 gallons per day.

Usually a storage container with a shut off float valve is used and the ro/di set up is set up to receive and process tap water as it is taken from the storage container.


I found a reliable source for RODI water, for now! Time to start saving up for a filter so I can save in the long run :p
I like the idea of putting it under my sink. I do have access to those pipes, and the washing machine ones as well, I just have a lot of free space under my sink (I'm a college student, what are cleaning supplies?!)

Thanks everyone for the input!

Also, is melev's 20 gallon sump/fuge a good one to build based off of?
This is the link: http://www.melevsreef.com/node/1272
Looks simple enough and effective, I like the live rock and sand feature so I want a sump/fuge that includes that.

[SFish]

Also, is melev's 20 gallon sump/fuge a good one to build based off of?
This is the link: http://www.melevsreef.com/node/1272
Looks simple enough and effective, I like the live rock and sand feature so I want a sump/fuge that includes that.

There are a lot of different ways to set up a sump. Wait for petco's $/gal sale. Pick up the biggest tank you can fit under the stand or where ever your going to put it. Find a glass shop to cut the baffles for you. It cost me about $30 for the glass and $20 for the tank. Some people like the return in the middle.

This should help

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1612604

[SaltLifeCam]

I think I like the idea of having the fuge on an end and the return in the middle. This would make it easier for keeping pods and such, correct?

[SFish]

I think I like the idea of having the fuge on an end and the return in the middle. This would make it easier for keeping pods and such, correct?

You can have pods with the fuge in the middle. I think the idea of the return being in the middle is to make it bigger. This helps with water evaporation. You can also do something's with the fuge. My return is on the end. I have 3 sections with one bubble trap. They are all about the same size. I'm going to be running two sumps though. One is a 20gal long and the other is a 7gal tall. It's not the best design but it's simple and will work. If you search sump design you'll see all kinds of stuff. There's even a bunch of video's on YouTube.

Mine is more like this guys

http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/showthread.php?303626-Newbie-(very-simple)-sump-design

[dkeller_nc]

SaltLifeCam:

Since you're a college student and can't permanently install an RODI, here's (http://www.marineandreef.com/AquaticLife_Reverse_Osmosis_RO_Buddie_s/715.htm) a unit you might want to consider. It's built to be compact; you simply hook it up to the sink faucet to make your water, then disconnect and store it until next time. If you do decide to get one of these, you will want to add the auxillary (http://www.marineandreef.com/AquaticLife_RO_Buddie_Deionization_DI_Cartridge_p/RAL01242.htm?gclid=CLPL_fq7gsUCFdgQgQodng0Aeg) deionization resin cartridge as the final stage.

You can also use a traditional form-factor RODI unit as a "set it up when you need it" device, like the ones that Bulk Reef Supply sells here (http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-4-stage-value-ro-di-system-75gpd-2.html). The advantage to this one is that while it's not as compact as the Aquatic Life unit, replacement cartridges are standard size & form factor and are thus cheaper than the RO Buddie's replacements, and because the units that BRS and others (like forum sponsor BuckEye Hydro) sell are modular, you can buy a basic unit and add features like a TDS meter to it as your needs expand.

[dkeller_nc]

With respect to setting up your first tank, I'd strongly encourage to put in the few hours it will take to read through the "setting up" sticky at the top of the forum. Doing so will save you a good bit of money in both the long and short term by avoiding unnecessary equipment purchases.

If you're a strong do-it-yourselfer, you can save a bunch of cash by purchasing $/gallon tanks at Petco for your main display, quarantine and sump tanks, and drilling the tanks yourself and installing the overflow. But another alternative for someone in your situation with limited space and cash might be to purchase an all-in-one tank like the ones made by Innovative Marine and others. It will cost you more up-front, but includes the filtration set-up and pump. You can then add an inexpensive T5HO lighting unit, a heater, a small skimmer, and a couple of inexpensive Koralia circulation propeller pumps, and you're ready for rock and saltwater.