Tank reset button?

[alb_56]

So long story short my tank is fully matured and doing pretty good. The downside is I have a bubble algae presence, it isn't out of control or covering everything but there is a little on probably every rock and scattered around the substrate. On top of this I have plenty of other algae that I wish wasnt in the aquarium. I also have a few minor pests like colonista snails that I wouldn't be upset to see gone. So I'm thinking about removing all the water, rock, and corals for the weekend and cleaning the tank really well. Then let it dry for a couple days. After that I would put all new rock in and kill the rock I have plus treating all my coral before putting any back in.

Do you guys think this is a terrible idea? Also do you think the cells in the water and the possible single bubble algae head that I could miss in a drain line be completely dead in a couple days? Or should I run bleach water through the line to kill everything for sure?

[kendrid]

I had a major bubble algae infestation. My new Foxface took care of it.

I thought the majority of BA was gone but just the other day I happened to look in my overflow. It is covered in bubbles.

If you pull the rock and sand I'd also bleach the lines. You won't get it all and it will be back.

Personally I'd just live with it. A year from now a frag will bring it back in and you will be right back where you are now.

[alb_56]

it. A year from now a frag will bring it back in and you will be right back where you are now

That is my concern

[stingeragent]

I am battling it also. I took all the rock out and scraped off all visble bubbles. Started with almost all fresh water. I moved the tank at the same time. I think the key is to keep up with manual removal. If you see a bubble get it out right then. My problem was id put it off til the next day. Then that turns into a week. If I was you I wouldn't start completely over. I originally introduced bubble algae into my original 20 gal (which was my first saltwater tank), through a starfish purchase (it was like 2 bubbles floating in the bag, I assumed the LFS put it in there as food or something, and of course back then I was in the habit of just dumping the bag in the tank water and all). Those 2 bubbles turned into 100. I think the biggest thing with all algaes is husbandry. Get a water change schedule and stick to it, no matter what. Best to put it on a day you don't work or anything else so that discounting an emergency room visit you have no excuse not to do it. Also, always use RODI no matter what. ( when I moved my 20 to a 40 and added a sump, I did the return chamber to small, to where it had to be topped off daily. If i forgot to do it before I went to bed, i'd get woken at 2am by the sound of the pump sucking air, and would just run to the bathtub and use tap water so I could be back asleep). Also, depending on your coral, reduce your light schedule to as small as you can make it while still keeping corals happy. And I think the biggest thing when it comes to bubble algae, as I said earlier , if you see it, remove it right then and there.

[BrettDS]

Do you guys think this is a terrible idea?


Yes, this is a terrible idea. You mention that you have a mature tank, which is typically best equipped to handle algae and keep it under control. New tanks are notorious for algae problems, so by trying to reset to a new tank I think you're just going to invite more algae problems.

Algae can definitely be beaten and I think you'll be much better off focusing your efforts there... Have you tested your water for phosphates? Are you using tap water or RODI water? What kind of rocks are you using? They may be leaching phosphates.

Find out why the algae is growing and fix that. Otherwise it will just grow back after nuking everything.

[Wazzel]

What are you calling mature? I had algae for the first 6 months or so. Bubble algae is not that big a deal. Pick off what you can or what is close to a coral. Get some emerald crabs and they will control it. Nuking a tank to solve a problem is not a good idea. Lean proper husbandry and work through it.

[Docdiggy]

I'm assuming my foxface is keeping mine under control. It's in my overflow and fuge. Nothing in display though.

[alb_56]

Ok so to clear a few things up. I have always used 0 Tds water, I test weekly. I have a calcium reactor, dual brs reactors, radion g3 pro, gyre 150, mp40, and an oversized skimmer. Husbandry is not a problem here. The algae really isn't a problem in general it's just there and I would like it to not be there. So I'm trying to decide what the way path is to really remove it. I have ah a foxface, and have always kept emerald crabs that keep everything under control just not gone.

[BrettDS]

Algae will always be a potential problem. It's not possible to get rid of it completely. You might consider a refugium or algae scrubber to help encourage it to grow in places other than your DT. But like I said... It's always going to be present to some extent. Even if you nuke your rocks you'll be right back here a few months from now and maybe even in worse shape.

[alb_56]

I would do an algae scrubber but for now the tank is in the living room and already looks a little frankensteiny when people see it. Adding another reservoir for water to flow through really isn't an option unfortunately.

[alb_56]

Well thank you all for your input. I went ahead and took the old school route and changed the rock around to get a better flow around the tank for export and removed a small amount of algae by hand. I appreciate your help here and I hope it will work out for the best.

[ericarenee]

The whole thing is . Forget about getting rid of the Algae.

LETS Talk about how you got to where you have it..

Nutrients and Nutrient exports....

If you post back your maintenance routine
Your water specs .
You test results over a few weeks
feeding habbits
Marine life in the tank
Equipment..

Then maybe people can help you solve the Issue with your tank and not work on a symptom ..

The algae is a symptom NOT the problem..

[alb_56]

Lol thank you for your concern but again it isn't a problem I've come upon because bad husbandry or lazy reefing. I have a small amount of algae presence in the tank and am not at the point of frustration or quiting. I love this hobby, the people in it, and tinkering in my tank.

I guess I should restate the original question in a better way. Would it be reasonable to think that a system if fully reset could become a healthy reef with zero algae present in the system?

Or would it just be a waste of time? An I should just accept the fact that algae is a part of the ecosystem.

[BrettDS]

Algae can be controlled and people are asking for information about your water parameters and maintenance routines in an effort to help you find ways to further control your algae. Not because we think you are an idiot or are trying to find something you are doing wrong. If you don't want to post that info then that's fine, but you may be losing an opportunity to help take further control of your algae. You may not be ready to quit, but it seems pretty clear that you're not happy with the algae in your tank.

To answer your newly rephrased question, algae is and always will be ever present. It will not be possible to have no algae in your system. Resetting it will definitely not get rid of the algae and will likely make it worse as the system matures again. Not only would it be a waste of your time, but it would cause additional stress on your tank inhabitants as your tank cycles and matures again.

[alb_56]

Algae can be controlled and people are asking for information about your water parameters and maintenance routines in an effort to help you find ways to further control your algae. Not because we think you are an idiot or are trying to find something you are doing wrong. If you don't want to post that info then that's fine, but you may be losing an opportunity to help take further control of your algae. You may not be ready to quit, but it seems pretty clear that you're not happy with the algae in your tank.

That's assuming a whole lot.

I haven't posted my parameters because I have no doubt they are within correct ranges for my specific tank, that is all.

As for the second paragraph, thank you for your input. I agree it would cause a lot of stress on inhabitants.

[alb_56]

To me I theory an aquarium can be fully sterilized of algae and stay that way. It's the in practice part that's in question. Could you get the proper cycle and growth without any algae? Or could you manage to stop all algae from getting in to the system from new fish and corals that go through a long QT?

[ericarenee]

That's assuming a whole lot.

I haven't posted my parameters because I have no doubt they are within correct ranges for my specific tank, that is all.

As for the second paragraph, thank you for your input. I agree it would cause a lot of stress on inhabitants.

You do also know that Having unwanted algae in your tank while having low nutrient test values only Confirms the Algae is Actually consuming the nutrients.
The trick is Starving the unwanted algae . Either by removing the Nutrient. or what i do .. I Have a huge Refugium of GOOD MACRO plants that consume the nutrients that the algae need to thrive. I have the best light for the fuge and best water flow . They are so happy they absorb the nutrients the algae need . the Algae fade away..

So I do see in my over flow box on the edges of my Return pipes once in a while a small sprout of Hair algae cyano bacteria. But it dies out Quickly..
Its all about BALANCE... You can also use CARBON Dosing GFO Bigger water changes less lighting . less feeding.. LOWER Your numbers of fish..

Anyway.... Just my TAKE From my algae free Multi tank system..


Erica Renee . the anti algae Goddess

[alb_56]

Erica Renee . the anti algae Goddess

Lol, nice.

Yes I do know the results of the tests are reading lower then what they actually are because of consumption. That's why I don't rely on test results as much as my eyes.

Its all about BALANCE... Y

You are definitely right on with that thought. I feed only what three chromis a clown and a corgis wrasse will eat in two or three minutes in a 93 gallon cube. I literally hand feed and watch every pellet get eaten. I use carbon and a phosphate remover of some kind and currently the balance if excess nutrients is in favor of the media and not algae. So in that way I am winning the balance. My light schedule is ten hour cycle with a radion having sun rise and sun set so I'm only at full output at mid day, roughly an hour.

[alb_56]

. I Have a huge Refugium of GOOD MACRO plants that consume the nutrients that the algae need to thrive.

I would if I could but adding another tank on really isn't an option.

[alb_56]

So I feel like there is a little aggression in this thread and I just want reiterate that Im not asking for help on how to fix my algae problem or trying to figure why my phosphates are testing off the charts. I was just working on my tank yesterday and the thought occurred to me of having an algae free tank and I thought I would see what other people thought. Thats all, thank you guys again for your input though. I promise I hear what you guys are saying, thats just not really my question.

[kruse47]

i would have to agree there is a level of hostility toward the OP. Anyways i would have to say in my experience theres is merit to a complete rest. My tank was a well established tank and i had a really bad BA infestation that i just could not get under control. it just so happened that i moved and i took that opportunity to start fresh. I now have been nearly BA free. there are few here add there but i remove them as soon as i see them.

So to give the OP a different thought to his question is yes a restart would defiantly would take care of the problem, you could treat your tank, rock, and substrate. and then play more of defense with things like coral when you get new by dipping. Im no biologist so im not going to help come up with a way to battle the algae because more than likely what i would say be wrong.

Hope for a quick solution
Cheers

[shiftline]

Get some emerald crabs and other creatures who naturally eat it

[BrettDS]

i would have to agree there is a level of hostility toward the OP.


I apologize if I came across as hostile. That certainly was not my intention.

[kinnadian]

Everyone is talking about good husbandry etc to get rid of bubble algae. I agree completely for every other type of algae EXCEPT bubble algae.

Have any of you guys EVER ACTUALLY HAD bubble algae?

Most of the solutions offered can "mask" the bubble algae, eg buying foxface or emerald crabs, but in places where they can't get to, eg overflow, sump, etc, bubble algae will exist.

It doesn't need ANY free nutrients to grow (detectable by test kit), it has been shown time and again in dozens of other threads that it can utilise the nutrients faster than your live rock/skimmer/gfo/turf scrubber/refugium can get rid of the nutrients. Nutrients to some extent will always exist in a reef, it is just how fast they are removed.

Bubble algae uses it faster and more efficiently than any other method.

The stuff can even survive in ultra-low nutrient SPS systems.

Husbandry and overfeeding is a large portion of the problem but don't act like bubble algae can solely be fixed by this.

Also if you're worried about reintroducing bubble algae into your tank in the future if you do end up doing a complete restart, do what you should be doing anyways and quarantine any new frags. If the QT water has any nutrients you will see bubble algae in a couple weeks even if the shop has picked it all off. I've received frags before where they've ripped the bubble algae off but left the foot so it regrows and regrows even if you pick it off.

[alb_56]

The stuff can even survive in ultra-low nutrient SPS systems.

This is kind of where I'm at with it. That's why I was wondering if sterilizing the tank would be a good path.

[stingeragent]

Bubble algae is the worst I'll agree. I relocated my tank about a week ago, and as I did, I plucked off every single piece I could find. Also running the tank with a UV filter now. Week or so in and haven't seen any pop up yet. I'm sure it's gonna come, but I am determined to pick out every piece the second I see it. I wouldn't start from scratch if I was you. If you are to the point of doing that. Get you some temp tanks/tubs/ whatever setup. Move over your fish. And then get another tub up for just the rock. Pull each piece out and comb it for the stuff and pick it off if you see it. And move it to the tub. Let the tub sit with good lighting for a week or so and pick off any if you see it. Then move everything back. I drained my tank all the way to the sand bed. Filled it half way up, stuffed it with powerheads and HOB filters and just let it run for a few days to try and make sure I got anything that may still be lurking in the sand. It may have all been for nothing, IDK, but I had to move the tank irregardless. So far, no bubbles.