DIY T-5 and LED Combo Rack using 8020

[Reefinny]

So I have been running SOL Blues on my 75 grow out tank, With pretty good success. I recently was at a fellow reefers house and he was running the SOL's with some retro T'5s and had some really nice colors going in the tank.

So the wheels started spinning! I had recently picked up a Icecap Ballast and some end caps in a tank breakdown I bought for some of the components. But was struggling on how I wanted to mount them.

Fast forward I from reading a few posts decided to make it out of 8020.

I say it came out very nice. I am eventually going to upgrade the 75 to a 80 rimless and the spread will work perfectly on a wider tank.

Overall dimensions are 48" x 18". I used 3 rails. The two outer rails hold the T5 bulbs (using Blue+) and the center rail holds the 2 Sol's.

Zip tied all the wires neat and tight and have them running on the Apex.

[theatrus]

Looks good! What profile of 8020 is this?

[Reefinny]

The 1"

[Reefinny]

I am using 2 - blue + - any other light combinations from anyone running a LED andT5 combo?

[Reefinny]

Anyone?

[Reefinny]

I liked this so much just switched my frag tank from a 30 to a 60 and made another one.

[FishAddict87]

I am going to be doing this with my Photon 48" when I upgrade to my 120. I plan on buying the retrofit T5 kit from BRS and building it into a wood canopy. I am going to use 1x1 wood to create a frame to hold it all together. I saw it on another thread on here before. It looks pretty neat and I love the look the T5 adds with LEDs. You did a great job.

[Reefinny]

Thanks!

[rjallen]

Nice
I have something similar to support my Photon 48" and 2 Aquatic Live Dual tube fixtures. It is 48" x 24" over my120

One Difference, I used 80/20 Quick Tube. Both the T-Slot and the QF are more than strong enough but QF is far lighter and goes together w/o any tools except a soft faced hammer. QF can be ordered with aluminum flanges on 1 or more sides. Sized right, fixtures rest on the flanges and QF side halls frame each fixture making it almost impossible to slip through. Quick Frame is available in Black or Clear anodized.

<a href="http://s1335.photobucket.com/user/rjallenxxx/media/Light%20Frame%20%203_zpst3ovcjzw.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1335.photobucket.com/albums/w672/rjallenxxx/Light%20Frame%20%203_zpst3ovcjzw.jpg" border="0" alt="Quick Frame used for structure photo Light Frame 3_zpst3ovcjzw.jpg"/></a>



<a href="http://s1335.photobucket.com/user/rjallenxxx/media/Light%20Frame%204_zpsnkmgiblb.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1335.photobucket.com/albums/w672/rjallenxxx/Light%20Frame%204_zpsnkmgiblb.jpg" border="0" alt="Used SS Eye Bolts to suspend frame photo Light Frame 4_zpsnkmgiblb.jpg"/></a>

[Reefinny]

Nice looks good. I just made another one for my 60, came out a little better - evolved :)

[max6297]

I made this hybrid fixture from my Radion a two old T5 fixtures that I had.
I made the stand and wanted the light to match. I installed new HO ballasts and used a plug in timer for the T5s.

My corals are really responding well and so did my wallet. I cost about $200 to make. I will try to post a pic of the just the light.

[rjallen]

+++1

Got any photos of the frame work? Did you repurpose your hanging kit or buy one?

Nice custom stand and floating canopy. One of a kind. Did you do the trim work? Looks very good.

[Reefinny]

Here is my next project. Did the same thing but with a halide for my 60 rimless sps tank.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160222/04f43a0114f9f58c17f84f6558b8ff6e.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160222/a41b5da31841b47648a00c20018b75a6.jpg

[max6297]

For some reason the framing file will not load. I will keep trying.

I did do all the trim work. Thanks. I used the adjustable Radion hanging kit and added some cable and hangers from HD for the new canopy. The Radion cable is about 1/8" and should be good for about 94 lbs. The canopy weighs about 17 pounds with the Radion.

[max6297]

Pic of framing.

[max6297]

Another shot.

[rjallen]

Pic of framing.

Good use of space. The sheet metal is a good idea since you have a top.

A couple of things. First, I only do such furniture grade work in my dreams! Second, I couldn't tell if you metal is galvanized. Sort of looks like it may be. IF you somehow get splashes or condensation, you will be dripping poison into your water. Of course it will damage you light. Even bare aluminum could be an issue. Strongly suggest you use stainless steel or anodized or painted aluminum. If it is stainless, you are ahead of me and pardon me for the assumption.
The last thing, keep a close watch on your ballasts. Watch for water and high temps. Plastic splash guards might help. A fan pointed at your lighting equipment might help. Besides the above small quibbles your project is a 10 out of 10!

[rjallen]

Nice looks good. I just made another one for my 60, came out a little better - evolved :)

Somehow, I missed your photos. Nice. Which joiners did you use to attached the t-slot pieces to each other?

Can you adjust your lights by sliding on the t-slot?

Looks good

[Reefinny]

Not sure what item number the joiners were. All 90° and used what was recommended on the site that i bought them on. One I can adjust height and one I can go left and right.