View Full Version : when to stop increasing %

09/23/2015, 05:33 AM
I received my 48 photon about 4 weeks ago. I have a 75 gal mixed reef tank with 20 gal sump. The light replaces a 4 tube T5. I started out at 30% blue and 20% white using the spreadsheet on the site. I'm up to 60/40. I'm just wondering how to proceed , should I keep bumping by 10% a week on both or just the blues or what. My corals and everything seem okay, nothing is keeling over but nothing is jumping for joy either. I would just like some advise from people that have the light so I don't go killing my tank.
Thanks for the help, I'm really enjoying this light.

09/24/2015, 12:38 PM
Are you using optics? If so what degree?

09/24/2015, 01:20 PM
stock photon 48" so I think they are 90 deg

10/19/2015, 02:25 PM
I've been told that after 55 white, spectrum shifts towards more reds, which makes cyano bloom.

10/19/2015, 02:26 PM
I personally, stop at 55 white and 100 blue.

11/01/2016, 04:41 AM
I personally, stop at 55 white and 100 blue.

How can I know when stopping?

My tank is 94"*20"*28" and I'm using 2*2080W

Ron Reefman
11/02/2016, 05:23 AM
If I may suggest an idea? There is an old saying about a "canary in a coal mine", have you heard of it? Back before there was any technological solution for them, coal miners would die in the mine when somebody, somewhere in the mine hit a gas pocket. They found canaries to be much more sensitive to the gas and would die long before the miners would even notice any gas. So they started keeping them in the mine as an early warning system. Cruel use of the canary, I understand, but a workable solution for the miners back in the early 1900's.

What I'm suggesting is we can do the same thing with an inexpensive frag of a coral that is exposed to too much light. Most any sps plating coral is a good collector of light due to it's flat, horizontal, exposed surface (compared to the vertical edges of a branching sps). So take a frag and set it as high as possible and as directly under the light as possible and it should be the first coral to show signs of too much light (bleaching).

I had a good size colony of monti confusa which both plates and grows vertical 'spires' or 'branches'. When I pushed the lights too intense the flat plate bleached out white, but because the vertical spires don't get as much light due to being vertical, they survived. I lowered the intensity of the fixture a little and moved the confusa down a bit and it began growing new plates off the spires.

Of course a PAR meter is the best solution, but they are expensive and of little use once you've established your tank's needs. Borrowing one from a friend, fellow club member or renting one from an LFS are all possible solutions as well. I do PAR tests for lots of members in my local club.