6000's power supply

[shifty51008]

Do the power supplies slow down when they are going out or just die? For some reason a couple weeks after cleaning the pumps and plugging them back into the 7095 controller i am now able to turn the pumps all the way up and the flow seems like they are only at 20%. Weird part is it happened to both pumps, not just one.

[rvitko]

Are you sure the pumps are 6000's? These are an older pump made 2002-2007 and had a round hockey puck power supply labeled 7210.202? It is not likely to be the power supply, either the potentiometer on the right side of the driver box was turned down or the motor is dying which given the age is not out of the question if they are 6000's. It could also be a part of the drive unit (impeller) is binding but that usually results in an alarm, or the prop blades are damaged. It is also possible that the 3 pin power plug to the driver on the female side has one contact broken off the board if it was pulled hard.

[shifty51008]

Yeah im positive they are 6000's, had them for 10 years. Def got money worth. The part i just find weird is both started to do this at the same time. I also have the larger puck down stairs for the 6100. I will give them another good cleaning this weekend when i have time and double check all the connections. Looks like this christmas bonus is going for a couple new pumps :D

Thanks

[rvitko]

Check the white 3 pin plug inside the driver, the motor has 2 coils and the power has two hots (outer poles) and a center common neutral (input is AC, the driver converts it to DC). It could be one outer hot is broken so only one coil works, it could also be one coil died.

[shifty51008]

I checked those plugs and they looked fine, i plugged in the bigger puck for the 6100 and it had lots more power with that one. So i am giveing them a good bath again as the outside did have a good build up of coraline again and will try again after they are clean.

Thanks

[shifty51008]

I actually feel stupid now, after a good cleaning they are both working great again. I guess what had me thinking they were dying is that usually i can go a few months before cleaning where as this time was just a few weeks.

Thanks for your help though, i think im still gonna get some new ones come christmas bonus time though, good to at least have on hand if anything.

[moondoggy4]

Tomorrow is Back To the Future day so maybe they will have a sale on the old pumps.

[shifty51008]

Lol, i did watch that on history channel the other day, amazing how much stuff was fairly close from the movie.

[rvitko]

Unless the calcium or KH levels increased try carefully cleaning the drive unit, especially the hole in the middle of the magnet and the bearing that sits at the bottom of the hole, this is where water enters to cool the pump and if it is clogged, calcium builds up much faster.

[shifty51008]

I might be missing something then, what is the bearing? I just have the prop magnet that goes in the hole. In the hole i can feel a peice sticking up in the middle though

[rvitko]

You likely still have the upper bearing and the ring under it still down at the bottom of the pump, the manual suggests using a screw to remove it, if it has never been removed it is likely cemented in with calcium and a long vinegar soak should be done to soften that before removing it. A #12 3" deck screw will thread into the hole in the middle and you can then pull it out. Don't thread it in more than about 1/4", on these old pumps a sensor was right under the impeller well and if you go through it will ruin the pump.

[shifty51008]

Ok i think i know what you mean but i removed those when i got the new impeller. The new imeller i got came with the magnet attached and with that bearing the impeller would sit to high.

Hope that makes sence, i can take pics if needed

[rvitko]

Those parts are still used with the new style, if it sat too high that means that the old one was likely still in there. These parts had modest changes with the drive unit change, with a new drive unit, you want to change all included parts as over the years they made subtle changes to balance noise and calcium build up. The tighter the fit, the less noise, the looser the fit, the less calcium build up, so they were constantly tweaking these for an optimum and that sometimes meant changing a part so it no longer fit properly with a mix/match of older parts.

[shifty51008]

Ok, i will double check again.

Thanks for the help so far

[shifty51008]

ok I think I am missing that bushing cause i don't see anything in the bottom and after soaking it and useing a screw nothing is comming out. I took a couple pics and you can kinda see the inside of the pump but it was hard to get a pic of so I took a pic of the parts I have and what it looks like when the impeller is seated.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a296/kau_cinta_ku/DSCF0060_zpsjffzxcy6.jpg (http://s13.photobucket.com/user/kau_cinta_ku/media/DSCF0060_zpsjffzxcy6.jpg.html)

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a296/kau_cinta_ku/DSCF0059_zpsphked67g.jpg (http://s13.photobucket.com/user/kau_cinta_ku/media/DSCF0059_zpsphked67g.jpg.html)

[moondoggy4]

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1071516 Could be helpful if you have not seen this before.

[shifty51008]

Yeah i saw that thanks, but those were the old impeller assemblies, i thought i read somewhere that the new ones didnt need the lower bushings but i could be way off. I think i still have them in one of the boxes though

[rvitko]

The bushing is visible down in the pump, this style pump regardless of drive unit type needs the lower bushing, under it is an o ring