Return line manifold

[McGee10]

Manifold design

Hi, I am building a 180gal tank and thinking it would be best to run all the reactors off of the return line. the return pump will be a Mag 18 (for now).


1) recommended Plumbing pipe size.

2) Recommendations on whether a pump is needed to push water through the manifold and a separate pump to return all the outflow to the tank.

3) Any plumbing tips that will improve overall function.

4) Maybe some Pic's of what is working for you!

Thank you very much.

[snulma1]

1. Match the plumbing to the mag 18 output

2. Use a ball valve on the return to increase some backflow pressure to drive some flow into manifold, and valves on each output of manifold to fine tune and shut down for maintenance

3. Dry fit first, and make sure to put in and check siphon breaks so you don't have a flood

[McGee10]

1. Match the plumbing to the mag 18 output

2. Use a ball valve on the return to increase some backflow pressure to drive some flow into manifold, and valves on each output of manifold to fine tune and shut down for maintenance

3. Dry fit first, and make sure to put in and check siphon breaks so you don't have a flood

Thanks Maybe I should run a second pump dedicated for the manifold.

[RocketEngineer]

First, I recommend a different pump. While an MD18 would work, they are not very efficient for the amount of flow you get out of them. Tough, just not cost effective to run.

1) I would recommend increasing the plumbing size as this reduces your friction losses in the plumbing.

2) I use just one pump to do both the tank return and the manifold. I only run a GFO reactor and supply my refugium but that was how I set it up initially. Running a dedicated pump depends on the application with a skimmer being best supplied by its own pump so it doesn't see variations in flow rates. Reactors don't care as much so run them off the manifold.

3) Put a union directly after the pump outlet. Use as few elbows as possible. Any jogs should be done with 45s instead of 90s (Making a 90 degree corner with two 45s isn't an improvement BTW). Use gate valves instead of ball valves for fine control.

4) Here is my return manifold:
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm289/RocketEngineer/125G%20Setup/PlumbingReworked005_zps2922f115.jpg
You can see the jog using 45s, the gate valve (which I run full open BTW), and the connections for the GFO reactor and refugium supply. Both of these need their respective valves about 1/2 closed otherwise the water never reaches the tank. Remember, water takes the path of least resistance and going uphill isn't easy.

HTH,

[McGee10]

First, I recommend a different pump. While an MD18 would work, they are not very efficient for the amount of flow you get out of them. Tough, just not cost effective to run.

1) I would recommend increasing the plumbing size as this reduces your friction losses in the plumbing.

2) I use just one pump to do both the tank return and the manifold. I only run a GFO reactor and supply my refugium but that was how I set it up initially. Running a dedicated pump depends on the application with a skimmer being best supplied by its own pump so it doesn't see variations in flow rates. Reactors don't care as much so run them off the manifold.

3) Put a union directly after the pump outlet. Use as few elbows as possible. Any jogs should be done with 45s instead of 90s (Making a 90 degree corner with two 45s isn't an improvement BTW). Use gate valves instead of ball valves for fine control.

4) Here is my return manifold:
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm289/RocketEngineer/125G%20Setup/PlumbingReworked005_zps2922f115.jpg
You can see the jog using 45s, the gate valve (which I run full open BTW), and the connections for the GFO reactor and refugium supply. Both of these need their respective valves about 1/2 closed otherwise the water never reaches the tank. Remember, water takes the path of least resistance and going uphill isn't easy.

HTH,

Been thinking about getting a DC pump I hear they are very efficient. What pumps do you like?
Thanks
Mike

[805reef]

If you are making a manifold similar to the one below, make sure the valve handles are spaced far enough (or angled) so they can all be closed at the same time with the handles bumping into each other.

http://i.imgur.com/P1AjNhw.jpg

[McGee10]

If you are making a manifold similar to the one below, make sure the valve handles are spaced far enough (or angled) so they can all be closed at the same time with the handles bumping into each other.

http://i.imgur.com/P1AjNhw.jpg

Good point thanks
Lot of good info, thanks to all!

[RocketEngineer]

Been thinking about getting a DC pump I hear they are very efficient. What pumps do you like?
Thanks
Mike

I run a Waveline DC6000 (http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/dc6000-apex-ready-dc-pump-waveline.html) (the real one, not the Chinese knockoff). I run it full speed with no restriction since I have a Bean Animal drain setup which can handle the flow. Been going for over a year now with no issues.

[RocketEngineer]

http://i.imgur.com/P1AjNhw.jpg

The double 45s do nothing for you compared to two 90s. You would be better off with the manifold supplied by a tee and having the return to the tank go straight up. You get less resistance to the return flow that way since it avoids the four elbows and only has to go through one tee instead of three. Why cause more restriction when you don't need to.

[Conor_K]

+1.

That double 45 thing cracks me up everytime I see it.

[McGee10]

+1.

That double 45 thing cracks me up everytime I see it.

So is a soft bend any better?

[RocketEngineer]

So is a soft bend any better?

Yes, a long sweeping bend is better than two sharp 45s which are actually no better than one sharp 90. The advantage of the 45s is when doing a job in which case you replace TWO sharp 90s with two sharp 45s which is actually a less restrictive design. But that only applies with jogs, not with all cases. Now, NO bends is better than any bends but that's rarely an option.

[McGee10]

RocketEngineer, I see you have a 40 gal sump would it be 39" or did you use a premade tank and put baffles in it?

[805reef]

I run a Waveline DC6000 (http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/dc6000-apex-ready-dc-pump-waveline.html) (the real one, not the Chinese knockoff). I run it full speed with no restriction since I have a Bean Animal drain setup which can handle the flow. Been going for over a year now with no issues.
That's not my picture. I just grabbed something to get my point across about making sure the ball valve handles can close without hitting each other.

[Jade5051]

My design is the greatest and bestest I promise. I put way to much time and thought into this tank. I would STRONGLY suggest using stop valves and gate valves so you can dial in the flow better.

The main line to the DT should be 1" all the way. Each Tee on the manifold should condense down to 3/4" and then the barb at the end of the stop/gate valve should be 1/2". This will ensure you have adequate pressure to the DT and enough pressure to each output of the manifold.

My design below. Flow is left to right. With 1" main line, 3/4" stop valves, 1/2" barbs. Check valve immediately after the manifold and a 1" gate valve after that.

I used vinyl tube and hose clamps to join PVC because it's cheaper than Unions.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/22/274db7ce43d6294453881b0660824fcf.jpg

[RocketEngineer]

That's not my picture. I just grabbed something to get my point across about making sure the ball valve handles can close without hitting each other.

It is a fair point. The 45s vs 90s is just a case of a specific recommendation getting used in the wrong application and becoming common place. :deadhorse1: The handles thing is something to keep in mind though.

RocketEngineer, I see you have a 40 gal sump would it be 39" or did you use a premade tank and put baffles in it?

I bought the two 40B tanks at the petco $1/gal sale and added baffles. I'm on my second design and while not much different from the first, I adjusted things slightly having used the first one for several years. If you look through My 75g/125g Build Thread (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1866098) you will find pictures of how I installed the baffles. Nothing fancy but they've worked well so far and are much cheaper than the pre-made ones.