DIY Tank Stand feedback

[dleute]

Hey Everyone,

I am brand new to this site and just returning to the fish keeping hobby. I grew up with several tanks, but never had one in my adult life. I am currently planning a saltwater setup.

After looking at what it costs to have the kind of tank I helped my dad maintain, I decided to try the DIY route. Fortunately, one of my hobbies is 3d rendering. And hence, I worked on some tank stand designs. I am not an engineer, but I did have a contractor who builds stands like this look at them. He says it can easily hold the weight, but he doesn't know about tank specifics.

This forum won't let me upload all the images so I'm linking to an outside post on my blog:

http://wp.me/p2qtRQ-4O

I hope people are willing to take a look and tell me what they think!

Thanks!

[Misled]

I added your pics. We don't allow links to other sites.I don't know why you had a problem.

http://i0.wp.com/www.allofzero.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Stand-Frame.jpg?zoom=2&resize=350%2C303

http://i1.wp.com/www.allofzero.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Stand-Top-Side-Floor.jpg?zoom=2&resize=350%2C326

http://i1.wp.com/www.allofzero.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Stand-Render-With-Tanks.jpg?zoom=2&resize=350%2C273

http://i0.wp.com/www.allofzero.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Stand-Alternate-Frame.png?zoom=2&resize=300%2C278

[don_chuwish]

2 things - well three actually:

1. Yes it's WAY over strong built that way - can be done with much less material
2. Are those meant to be 4x4 lumber? It can twist and warp, sometimes long after assembly and living in your house. Typically doubling 2x4s is more stable.
3. None of that matters if that's the look you're going for! Not skinning it but leaving it all open? Then yeah, maybe 4x4 looks better.

Depending on your tools and skills, you can double up 2x4s and make them look good by jointing and planing - makes them dead straight too.

- D

[dleute]

2 things - well three actually:

1. Yes it's WAY over strong built that way - can be done with much less material
2. Are those meant to be 4x4 lumber? It can twist and warp, sometimes long after assembly and living in your house. Typically doubling 2x4s is more stable.
3. None of that matters if that's the look you're going for! Not skinning it but leaving it all open? Then yeah, maybe 4x4 looks better.

Depending on your tools and skills, you can double up 2x4s and make them look good by jointing and planing - makes them dead straight too.

- D

Thanks for moving my images! I think they were too big, but I didn't know why as most of them I explicitly resized to fit.

1. Could I simply make all the 4x4's (yes they are that) 2x4's? It seemed like the 4x4's were needed for anything that was horizontal for a 48x24x24 tank. Or, as you say, combined 2x4's.

2. How do they twist and warp? Is there a type of wood I could use that prevents that? I was trying to keep the number of wood cuts and attachments I need to do to a minimum because I am *not* a wood worker. That's really fed into the entire design. No attachment method will be directly supporting vertical force.

3. It will be skinned. In one of the pictures the back and left side are present. The front will have 2 doors and the right side will have one made out of the same material. (most likely 3/4 plywood unless I find something more cost effective and strong). Since the right and front aren't structural, I didn't include them in the pics. They will be hanging on hinges.

Essentially the 4x4 was selected due to strength and ease of construction. The entire stand is 22 framing pieces of 4x4 (all of which are multiples of the same size piece) and 8 cut to size pieces of plywood (again, multiples of the same size). If I can't build this with my existing skills, there isn't a stand I can build myself. ;) I may even have a contractor friend of mine pre-cut all the wood.

Note: The goal here is to control cost. I am comparing this to a similar extruded aluminum design. Thus far the material cost has been very similar (assuming certain sizes of aluminum). The extruded aluminum design is ridiculously easy to build, but requires more work to skin (but I also don't need 3/4 inch skins).

Thanks!

--Derrek

[Grnrado]

Here is my build http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2519888 My tank dimensions are 48x24x16. If you follow the design of just the structure you will not need a middle support which helps doing maintenance in the sump area. In addition I only used 1/4" to skin the tank and used 1/2" for the top. This thing is extremely solid with pocket screws and glue. FYI before i acquired all my newer woodworking tools i built this stand with just a miter saw, sander, jig saw, and router.

[dleute]

Here is my build http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2519888 My tank dimensions are 48x24x16. If you follow the design of just the structure you will not need a middle support which helps doing maintenance in the sump area. In addition I only used 1/4" to skin the tank and used 1/2" for the top. This thing is extremely solid with pocket screws and glue. FYI before i acquired all my newer woodworking tools i built this stand with just a miter saw, sander, jig saw, and router.

I believe I looked at your tank build as I was researching. I have a previous design that is very similar.

I want a door on one side regardless of the presence of a front support (which is why I was ok with a front support). However, it may be worth doing a version of mine using 2x6 instead of 4x4 for the top horizontal frame if I can eliminate the front support altogether.

In my stress testing using my software, the 4x4 with a 4x4 front support performed so much better than previous designs that I just decided to go with it. However, my software doesn't simulate wood. So when I compare designs, I compare multiple materials to make sure the underlying concept is sound.

I'm amazed 2x4's at the corners are all you need for the vertical support. That would solve an interior size issue for me if I switch back to 2x4's. My tank will be 40 gallons bigger than yours. I should probably think about that as well.

--Derrek

[dleute]

Just to be clear, the last image in the group is an alternate build I was experimenting with.

I made that clear on my external blog but it didn't translate into this forum.

[davocean]

You could probably drop down to even 2x3 if that is the look you are shooting for and then it won't look so bulky/blocky.
I would also consider leaving out the blocking on the floor and just doing a ply bottom unless you want that sump elevated for showing, but most of us need room for gear, height is often an issue, especially for skimmers.
What size tank is this for?

[dleute]

The tank is 48x24x24 (120 Gallon). I wanted the bottom elevated for siphoning reasons more than anything else. It will be fully skinned, so the look doesn't really matter much.

Right now this is a pretty high cabinet at 38 inches. So there is room, but I was thinking of taking it down a few inches. I'm still debating what height I want the tank at.

FYI: The fourth picture was an alternate frame construction. It's the first picture that shows the intended frame.

[don_chuwish]

I'm planning a stand the same size. 2x4s, especially as short as we're using, are incredibly strong in the vertical orientation - then when you add a skin it makes it even stronger and prevents racking side to side. This is what mine looks like - I'm really trying to maximize internal space. 1/2" plywood skin on sides and back, 3/4" plywood on top.
This calculator helps put things into perspective:
https://courses.cit.cornell.edu/arch264/calculators/example7.1/

[dleute]

I'm planning a stand the same size. 2x4s, especially as short as we're using, are incredibly strong in the vertical orientation - then when you add a skin it makes it even stronger and prevents racking side to side. This is what mine looks like - I'm really trying to maximize internal space. 1/2" plywood skin on sides and back, 3/4" plywood on top.
This calculator helps put things into perspective:
https://courses.cit.cornell.edu/arch264/calculators/example7.1/

Yeah, not knowing the strength of wood has been a problem. That calculator will help me figure it out.

Are you using 2x6 for the top frames?

--Derrek

[sfdan]

There is a huge thread about DIY tank stands (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1169964) that is well worth a read if you are considering building it yourself. I guarantee you every question you have is asked and answered within the thread. You can search for various keywords in that thread to find the pages where people discuss whatever you are interested in.

[don_chuwish]

Yeah, not knowing the strength of wood has been a problem. That calculator will help me figure it out.



Are you using 2x6 for the top frames?



--Derrek


Yep, 2x6 for the top.

[Shawn O]

2x6 for the top and 2x4 for the rest will be more than strong enough. 1/2" ply will work just fine. Depending on the tank, you may get away with 1/2" ply for the top, as well. If you're using a glass tank, 1/2" should work well. If you're using an acrylic tank, it would have to be much thicker, maybe 3/4" or more.

[davocean]

When I looked at your 3rd pic I thought that has a cool unique look and like that open chamber look just below display, I thought maybe you did that for air flow or something as well as design.
If you plan to wrap and enclose everything same as what most do I'd just go w/ rocketengineer's frame template for simplicity.
I personally think it would look kinda neat to have it just as it looks in that 3rd pic but maybe add doors, maybe I'd even add some colored glass in those chamber areas just below display, maybe(Of course that seems to be my taste in many of my builds)
As for stand height I normally build at a minimum height of 36" and that seems very common for gear height, if you plan to keep sump elevated I don't think I'd go lower than your 38" plan, but guess that depends on you and what skimmer you are going w/, keep in mind they usually end up being elevated so pump is in 6-8" of water, so you need that cup removal clearance.

[dleute]

2x6 for the top and 2x4 for the rest will be more than strong enough. 1/2" ply will work just fine. Depending on the tank, you may get away with 1/2" ply for the top, as well. If you're using a glass tank, 1/2" should work well. If you're using an acrylic tank, it would have to be much thicker, maybe 3/4" or more.

It will be glass. My concern is my design has those exposed holes in front and in back (in front they will be covered by doors, in back they are open). Hence why the super thick plywood. But, it does seem to be overkill.

--Derrek

[dleute]

When I looked at your 3rd pic I thought that has a cool unique look and like that open chamber look just below display, I thought maybe you did that for air flow or something as well as design.
If you plan to wrap and enclose everything same as what most do I'd just go w/ rocketengineer's frame template for simplicity.
I personally think it would look kinda neat to have it just as it looks in that 3rd pic but maybe add doors, maybe I'd even add some colored glass in those chamber areas just below display, maybe(Of course that seems to be my taste in many of my builds)
As for stand height I normally build at a minimum height of 36" and that seems very common for gear height, if you plan to keep sump elevated I don't think I'd go lower than your 38" plan, but guess that depends on you and what skimmer you are going w/, keep in mind they usually end up being elevated so pump is in 6-8" of water, so you need that cup removal clearance.

The holes on the back (that match the ones visible on the front) are meant for running tubes and allow for venting. The front ones were going to be covered by doors. I also might use those nooks for things like tank controller equipment (Apex).

I love the 4x4 look. However, the wife does not. She doesn't want the equipment showing. Plus we have a toddler and a dog which need to be kept out. I would consider using glass doors, but my concern is the sump will ultimately end up looking too messy for that. If I do seamless sump, there won't be anything to see.

I don't know the sump or the skimmer yet. The lower tank is just to illustrate what a common sump size I could build myself would look in the stand.

I will be adjusting the dimensions slightly so the tank edges sit more solidly over the vertical supports (regardless of the final wood size). I'm working on several other variations. I don't have the exact tank dimensions yet either, so it's tough to do a final build.

--Derrek

[dleute]

Hey Everyone,

It sounds like the attached stand frame image is still over built for the purpose.

I simply took my original design and replaced all 4x4 with 2x4 and 2x6 (for the two horizontal pieces at the top).

I also tightened the dimensions so they just about match the expected tank external size.

The only problem this created is with the sump inside. It would be very tight if I don't add a tiny bit of width to the cabinet. Also, one of the sumps I like is actually 50" long not 48" :(

The stress test on this did turn out similar to the 4x4. My only issue is on the 4x4 I have plenty of space to use timber lock screws. Here I would probably use pocket style (not sure if that's the right terminology).

Any comments?

--Derrek

[davocean]

I would say for what you are going for you should just go straight w/ rockets template for simplicity sake, you are pretty close to there already