RO 4 stage system...how to install a storage tank

[danielcassar]

Hi all, didnt know where to post this question.
I have a 4 stage system..1st sediment, 2nd carbon block, 3rd RO membrane and 4th DI resin. This system is withour a tank and with no pumps. I am asking what i need to do to add a storage tank with this system. I dont want to add the pump. Can someone show me how?.

A diagram of my current system is attached.

Thanks
Daniel

[Reefbuoy]

Daniel,

Pressurized tanks are used for RO drinking water and can be installed after the RO filter using a t-connector and a check valve. The pressure tank can add TDS to the water, which you wouldn't want for aquarium water. If you want to store aquarium water you could install a tank with float valve after the DI.

Sean

[danielcassar]

Hi Sean. Thanks for your reply.
Yes i did exactly as you said (pic attached). The problem is that the waste water didn't stop coming out after some hours. Should i include an automatic shut off valve?

Thanks
Daniel

[cardinalfish78]

The link below is what you need. Let me know if you don't understand the drawing.

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/auto-shut-off-kit-for-reverse-osmosis-systems.html

[danielcassar]

cool i was thinking that i need an auto shut off valve. i found this diagram...does is it work same as you described in the diagram?

[jmc1974]

I think I can help here... ok in some cases even in addition of an auto shutoff valve you still need a bladder tank, because it needs the back pressure to be able to close the incoming water. First off, check your incoming water pressure, both static and dynamic, then install the auto shut off valve, but follow this water guide: water in to sediment, then to pre-carbon, then to inlet of auto shutoff valve, then thru outlet, to RO membrane, clean water to check valve (arrow points away from membrane), to tank side or unmarked on auto shut off, then thru opposite outlet, then to a "T", tee splits water to bladder tank and to either a DI filter or a float valve.

Since you said that the drain does not stop when the float or valve on the outlet is closed, is due to not having enough back pressure to compensate for the incoming water pressure on the auto shut off valve. That's why you should have a tank.

I hope that helps.

[danielcassar]

Thanks for your reply...can you pls describe it in a simple diagram...cause i got confused :)

thanks

[vhuang168]

Since you said that the drain does not stop when the float or valve on the outlet is closed, is due to not having enough back pressure to compensate for the incoming water pressure on the auto shut off valve. That's why you should have a tank.

I hope that helps.


Op doesn't have an asov is why the waste line doesn't stop.

[jmc1974]

Op doesn't have an asov is why the waste line doesn't stop.
Yes, the supply of water keeps pushing through the membrane and will damage it. Either add it plus a small storage tank to build back pressure or close the main when you're done.

[Buckeye Hydro]

I think I can help here... ok in some cases even in addition of an auto shutoff valve you still need a bladder tank, because it needs the back pressure to be able to close the incoming water.

I'll respectfully disagree. OP - do not install a pressure tank.

You need an auto shut off valve or another device (like a pressure switch and solenoid) to turn of flow through the system when the flow of purified water is stopped by a float valve.

Russ

[Buckeye Hydro]

Yes, the supply of water keeps pushing through the membrane and will damage it.

Water flowing through the membrane will not damage the membrane, unless the water is bad (e.g., hard) or your carbon block is exhausted.

Russ