Initial Setup/hardware plans 6' 135

[tonyjd34]

Hi Reefcentral,
This is my first post and I want to start off by saying thank you all for being such a great resource for newbs like myself... i'd love to get some feedback on some equipment options that I was planning on a 6' 135g. setup.

This would be my first saltwater setup but I've been breeding African cichlids for about 8 yrs now. I've spent virtually all of my free time reading books and digging through every article on setups and starting out on reefcentral and any other online resource I've come across for the past year. Its been awesome but now I think i'm ready to take the plunge...

So I would love feedback on some equipment which I was looking to buy.. mostly I want to know if it will accommodate my plans..

Fish:
Yellow Tang
Powder Brown Tang
squaretail bristletooth tang
some wrasses, haven't decided which yet
and eventually maybe an anemone with two clowns

Corals would be introduced slowly and would be beginner softies and some LPS

so equipment, I wanted to get quality items but not break the bank completely.. was looking at the following for the 6' 135


Tank will be drilled for a beananimal style drain with a c2c overflow
Sump 55g (48x12x18) with 3 chambers, middle to house chaeto

lights: Kessil AP700 x 2 really like these

Return pump: Sicce syncra silent 5.0(1320gph) big enough?

Protein skimmer: Aquamaxx ConeS co-1 big enough?

Powerheads: Brs has a deal on 2 Sicce voyager (1600gph) with a wave controller, otherwise was looking at Tunze powerheads I have a couple other powerheads which I could throw in this tank but am hoping that those two will do most of the trick
Brs reefsaver rock ~120lbs and then once those have cycled about 30lbs live rock, haven't decided on from where yet, suggestions welcome!
planning 1" sand bed

Down the road would plan an ato and possibly an apex but really want to get the hang of working on the tank everyday at first, getting in the habit of caring for the tank before I go too automated.

I have 1 20g and 2 10g tanks for quarantine setups with hobs and powerheads.

I'll be using salifert testing equipment.

Was also wondering about people's thoughts using canister filters(rena xps) as reactors for carbon and gfo, such as not using any filter pads, just the media in the canister cartridges.


One final question: I work some wacky shifts during all times of day and night usually 12hr shifts. is this going to be a major issue as far as maintaining a healthy tank? I don't have problems doing tank maintenance when I get home in the early morning or evening but does doing such things when say the fish aren't used to being awake and turning lights on doing water changes, etc, etc, have an effect on their health?

Thank you all your help and for any responses,
Tony

[thegrun]

In a tank of that size I would limit the tangs to two at the most. I would eliminate the Powder Brown since it requires the most space and are the most prone to disease of the three tangs you listed. Down the road you will probably want to add a third Kessil since you will have some dimmer areas with only two lights. I would up size your skimmer to the CO-2, the CO-1 is not big enough. The Sicce 5.0 will work well for your tank. I would skip the canister in favor of a real reactor, it will be easier to maintain. You will be able to tee off the Sicce return pump to feed a couple of reactors so you don't need extra pumps. Mixing up the hours is a little hard on livestock but not a deal breaker. Fish can handle it better than corals, you may have some difficulty with the more sensitive corals long term.

[tonyjd34]

Thanks thegrun,
Darn the powder brown was the fish i was really hoping could work.. But i also thought it may be an iffy idea. The reactor thought was another i figured wouldnt work but wanted to c if anyone had used them before. I guess the work schedule has made me think twice about doing this at all.. Does anyone have the same issues and how do you maintain consistency and health in your tanks.

[thegrun]

If you have your heart set on the Powder Brown I would go for it, but I would use the tank transfer method followed by at least 6 weeks in a quarantine tank before you add it to your display tank. You would definitely want to eliminate at least one of the other tangs from your list. Again on the times of day the lights are on it can be done, it is just not ideal. If you stay with the easy to care for corals you should be fine.

[tonyjd34]

Oh.. 2 kessil ap700s wont be enough for this tank? Planning on only softies and a few lps

[tonyjd34]

Ok two tangs max. Ive read lots on ttm and quarantine and feel as tho this may be one of the keys to keeping a disease free display.
On the lighting does anyone have the kessil ap700? Whats the actual spread of the lights and will 2 do ok over a 72" tank with soft corals and lps only?

And if anyone has wacky work schedules and has any tips or tricks to maintaining stability in their reef i would greatly appreciate any insight...
Thanks,

[RocketEngineer]

And if anyone has wacky work schedules and has any tips or tricks to maintaining stability in their reef i would greatly appreciate any insight...
Thanks,

I'll answer this first with one word: Automation. My reef tanks are set up with very simple systems and enough automation to keep me from killing myself doing maintenance. I use an ATO on a rotary timer to limit how much water gets added to the tank at any one time. I use kalkwasser to supply the tank with calcium and alkalinity. My lights are all controlled with a fixed schedule every day. I use an automatic feeder over a feeding ring and suppliment that with frozen stuff. Using an in-sump skimmer means any overflows won't leave the system and cause problems. The simpler things are, the less there is to go wrong.

On a side note, I would caution you against using a 55g as a sump. A 40B is a much better size as it is has more depth front-to-back and less height. I've used two and both times never regretted it. Having a taller sump would be a real pain and I have a 36" tall stand.