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itz frank
04/20/2016, 07:51 PM
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160420/c03b1b06facf4d5830760a0a52150888.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160420/ff2d6ac7cbf58d03d3b082ca52e2bec0.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160420/23e0a18e4e72aa4ab1b9747897361c91.jpg


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snorvich
04/20/2016, 08:04 PM
Picture is not clear enough, but yes you should be concerned

itz frank
04/20/2016, 08:12 PM
Picture is not clear enough, but yes you should be concerned


Thank you. This guy doesn't stop moving. I'll try and get better photos tomorrow.

During t5 light time, I can't see the white dots. On the LED time, I can.

Since its in my display and is a reef. What's my next suggested move? Wait to see if it gets worse?


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snorvich
04/20/2016, 08:20 PM
Try for a clearer picture. Behavior? History?

itz frank
04/20/2016, 08:38 PM
Try for a clearer picture. Behavior? History?


Behavior seems completely normal. Eating. Haven't seen him scratching. He's been in the tank since Sunday.

I thought I viewed a clown scratch on Monday or Tuesday. But I don't think the ich life cycle would be that fast to swap hosts? Maybe I'm wrong. Nothing else in the tank has any white dots.


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itz frank
04/20/2016, 08:55 PM
Just saw this:

How old is this aquarium? Less than two months old.

2. If less than six months old, what is ammonia level? 0ppm api

3. What is SG of this aquarium? How measured? 1.026 refractometer

4. When was the last fish added to this aquarium? Sunday

5. Was it quarantined? If so, how? And how long? Was it prophylactically treated? How?
No

6. If you are using a copper based medication, which one? How often do you measure level? When?

7. If you are using hyposalinity, how did you calibrate your refractometer?

8. Please describe in detail, the appearance of the fish? If there is one or more pimples, are they lumpy? What color?
White small dots. More than one. Both sides of fish. Varying in size.

9. Please describe the behavior of the fish as best you can. Is it acting reclusive? Is it always up towards the top of the aquarium? Is it avoiding light? How active is the fish?
Fish very active. Eating Reef frenzy frozen mix. Not reclusive. Swimming with others. Not sure about water column question. Definitely in the open swimmer. Not sucking bubbles at the top.

10. Is the fish eating? What? Frozen. Reef frenzy mix.



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BrickFishHouse
04/20/2016, 09:08 PM
With a fish eating heartily, swimming actively, catching the ich early, and corals in the tank, I have had pretty good success infusing MetroPlex and Focus into frozen mysis as it thaws before feeding, and then doing this for between two and three weeks.

Hope this helps!


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jbvdhp
04/21/2016, 01:17 PM
Well these blennies do wedge themselves in tight spots, could be debris but difficult to say from pics


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itz frank
04/21/2016, 01:21 PM
I'll try and get better ones today. It does look a little like rubbing closer near his head but I don't know. I think I'm paranoid but a clown has one white dot this morning.


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itz frank
04/21/2016, 04:15 PM
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160421/0e675d82c2910569856fd6e1b8ca05ab.jpg

Not my fish. But this is what the white spots look like.


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itz frank
04/21/2016, 04:18 PM
Try for a clearer picture. Behavior? History?


Photo attached above of example of what my dots look like. Not my fish but dots look exactly like that.


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snorvich
04/21/2016, 08:09 PM
That is ich.

itz frank
04/21/2016, 08:18 PM
That is ich.


Thank you for the advice and your opinion.

So, fish should come out then as best course of action. Based on the ich life cycle, there should be ich on additional fish by Sunday, correct?


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snorvich
04/22/2016, 04:53 AM
Thank you for the advice and your opinion.

So, fish should come out then as best course of action. Based on the ich life cycle, there should be ich on additional fish by Sunday, correct?


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All fish should be treated with TTM. You may or may not see visible symptoms.

firefly73
04/22/2016, 05:17 AM
def ich . ive used medic before with good success But it takes time due to how it works. basicaly causes free radical oxidation in the ich cells leading to death. coral safe. my lfs suggested running around 1/3 higher dose than stated on the instructions HOWEVER this worked for me BUT consult poyplabs about it.. Took 14 days to clear in my tank lost the culprit (tuskfish) but saved all others. never returned and i do have a blue tang!!!!!

ps maintain a high temp in the tank as low temps thin the mucus layer on most fish imo

snorvich
04/22/2016, 05:36 AM
def ich . ive used medic before with good success But it takes time due to how it works. basicaly causes free radical oxidation in the ich cells leading to death. coral safe. my lfs suggested running around 1/3 higher dose than stated on the instructions HOWEVER this worked for me BUT consult poyplabs about it.. Took 14 days to clear in my tank lost the culprit (tuskfish) but saved all others. never returned and i do have a blue tang!!!!!

ps maintain a high temp in the tank as low temps thin the mucus layer on most fish imo

Raising temperature should not be done; lower is better. There is no reef safe product for treating ich.

firefly73
04/22/2016, 05:49 AM
Raising temperature should not be done; lower is better. There is no reef safe product for treating ich.true

TRUE
temp is def my opinion based on anecdotal internet referencing And please note i state maintain not increase ie if your tank temp is 27c maintain as dropping to 24 would cause thinner mucous allowing easier attachment of new/young ich in free swimming form. To clarifiy if your tank is 24c dont raise your temps as snorvich mentions.

BUT

Medic is a highly effective water conditioner used to control external fish parasites present in both marine and freshwater environments. It contains a reef-safe oxidizing agent and is particularly effective against Marine Ich - Crytopocaryon Irritant as well as others.

http://www.polyplab.com/products/medic as reference

regards bruce

snorvich
04/22/2016, 08:45 AM
true

TRUE
temp is def my opinion based on anecdotal internet referencing And please note i state maintain not increase ie if your tank temp is 27c maintain as dropping to 24 would cause thinner mucous allowing easier attachment of new/young ich in free swimming form. To clarifiy if your tank is 24c dont raise your temps as snorvich mentions.

BUT

Medic is a highly effective water conditioner used to control external fish parasites present in both marine and freshwater environments. It contains a reef-safe oxidizing agent and is particularly effective against Marine Ich - Crytopocaryon Irritant as well as others.

http://www.polyplab.com/products/medic as reference

regards bruce

Ich is not an external parasite. Just because a company says something about their product does not make it true,

Deinonych
04/22/2016, 01:55 PM
Active Ingredients in Medic: Metronidazole, Peroxide acids. Neither of these are effective in the treatment of ich, and I certainly wouldn't dose metro in a reef tank.

itz frank
04/22/2016, 02:51 PM
Moral of the story is. I screwed up. And now I need to figure out how to TTM.


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firefly73
04/22/2016, 06:07 PM
Ok well ive used it in my sps tank for 15 days with multiple fish carrying ich with no impact to my corals or inverts. And with no further outbreaks for currently 12months. Ich is not found internally . It is found in the gills or with its head (like a tick) buried in the skin with the rest of the body outside. But only visible when a cyst sac develops. Ie the white spot part. . Intestinal worms are internal. Flukes ich velvet etc all external

snorvich
04/22/2016, 08:13 PM
Ok well ive used it in my sps tank for 15 days with multiple fish carrying ich with no impact to my corals or inverts. And with no further outbreaks for currently 12months. Ich is not found internally . It is found in the gills or with its head (like a tick) buried in the skin with the rest of the body outside. But only visible when a cyst sac develops. Ie the white spot part. . Intestinal worms are internal. Flukes ich velvet etc all external

Sorry, but ich is under the skin (which is not an external parasite) and usually in the gills. But use what you wish.

snorvich
04/22/2016, 08:23 PM
The life cycle of this parasite is interesting and is important to understand when evaluating a treatment because different treatments work on various aspects of this life cycle. The stage in which the parasite is attached to a fish is called a trophont. While it looks like a grain of salt sprinkled on the skin, it is actually under the skin, making it inaccessible to cleaning animals such as cleaner wrasses, gobies, and shrimp. The trophont will spend three to seven days (depending on temperature) feeding on the fish and that is what you see symptomatically when you see "salt sprinkled on the fish".

After that, the trophont leaves the fish and becomes a protomont. This protomont travels to the substrate and begins to crawl around for usually two to eight hours, but sometimes as long as eighteen hours after it leaves its fish host.

Once the protomont attaches to a surface, it begins to encyst and becomes a tomont. Division inside the cyst into hundreds of daughter parasites, called tomites, begins shortly thereafter. This noninfectious stage typically lasts anywhere from three to twenty-eight days, however, the longest recorded period is 72 days. During this extended period, the parasite cyst is lying in wait for a host.

After this period, the tomites hatch and begin looking for a fish host. At this point, they are called theronts, and they must find a host within twenty-four hours or die. This is the most vulnerable stage of the life cycle. Theronts prefer to attach to skin and gill tissue, then transform into trophonts, and begin the process all over again.

Thus, when your tank is infected, you can actually see symptoms during a very small part of the life cycle, or, possibly, not at all. Also, this is why the symptoms seem to come and go.

Many hobbyists are fooled into believing they have cured their fish of the parasites when visible symptoms disappear, only to find marine ich present again on fish a few weeks later. Don't be lulled into a false sense of security. The parasites may be in a stage where they are merely regrouping and multiplying for their "next offensive." In the wild, this sort of massive reproductive phase ensures that a few will find a suitable host to continue on the cycle. In the close confines of our aquariums, though, it means comparatively massive infection rates and exponentially increasing infection.

itz frank
04/24/2016, 06:35 PM
Sorry, but ich is under the skin (which is not an external parasite) and usually in the gills. But use what you wish.


http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160424/989af7577ccc23e2ab3dd272f50fda07.jpg
Snagged a photo today of the blenny. This is what he looks like. 7 days now in the tank.


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ThRoewer
04/25/2016, 01:55 AM
It looks a bit small for ich. It's also strange that there are no nodules on the fins.
Regardless what it is, it looks well advanced and I would get the treatment started ASAP.

If you are lucky it's just ich, but just in case I would do TTM in combination with CP and formalin dips between transfers.

itz frank
04/25/2016, 06:04 AM
It looks a bit small for ich. It's also strange that there are no nodules on the fins.

Regardless what it is, it looks well advanced and I would get the treatment started ASAP.



If you are lucky it's just ich, but just in case I would do TTM in combination with CP and formalin dips between transfers.


Well, what could it be? Could this be a result of him scratching?

I've seen something similar to this on him a few days ago. I posted a picture I think on page 2 that looks similar to what he looked like. He had white dots but they were super small. Nothing like in the photos when you google marine ich in size.


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itz frank
04/25/2016, 04:09 PM
Was suggested on another forum as possibly marine velvet?


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jbvdhp
04/25/2016, 05:57 PM
Well, if it's getting worse then you need to get all the fish out. I was really hoping it was sand and debris. Mine gets it all the time from wedging itself in rocks. In fact, that's the only way I can ever catch it.

itz frank
04/25/2016, 07:02 PM
Well, if it's getting worse then you need to get all the fish out. I was really hoping it was sand and debris. Mine gets it all the time from wedging itself in rocks. In fact, that's the only way I can ever catch it.


Actually, it's changing everyday. Intact, earlier today at 7 he had none. I just took photos with the particles back in a different shape but less than what appears in previous photos. You say yours looks similar?


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ThRoewer
04/25/2016, 07:55 PM
Was suggested on another forum as possibly marine velvet?


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It doesn't really look like velvet and the fish should be dead by now if it was. Though if you have, it might be a good idea to add CP to the treatment plan.

The problem with ich is that it can look very different on different species of fish. The white spots you see is not really the parasite, but rather the fish's reaction to the parasite.
The issue here is that there seem to be no spots on the fins which is quite unusual with ich.

jbvdhp
04/25/2016, 07:57 PM
Actually, it's changing everyday. Intact, earlier today at 7 he had none. I just took photos with the particles back in a different shape but less than what appears in previous photos. You say yours looks similar?


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Mine looks like that yes WHEN it snugs itself into the small holes it likes to dart into

itz frank
04/25/2016, 08:02 PM
Mine looks like that yes WHEN it snugs itself into the small holes it likes to dart into


I'm going to continue to keep my eye on it. But this comes as a relief.

I've been getting my fish comfy with my fish trap in case. I have prazipro on the way.

I'll post the photo of the fish from today up tomorrow.


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