Residual heat from Powerheads?

[Rakie]

I'm running a BioCube 29g my equipment list is as follows

- Desired Temperature 76
- Actual Temperature 77.6-79
- Heater 1/2 Finnex Titanium 150w/100w

Residual Heat Builders
- AquaMaxx Hob-1 (11w)
- Jebao PP-4 (10-20w)
- Tunze 6015 (3.5w)
- MJ1200 (20w)
- MJ900 (10w)

Total of ---> 65w (rounded up, @ full power)

I guess I'm thinking this shouldn't bring the temp to nearly 78* at all times. In the dead of night with my window and window fan on, my tank hits a low of 77.6.

Is there anything I can do other than a fan hooked up to my Apex?

[ezcompany]

yes, you can replace some powerheads with a ecotech mp10 pump and not worry about any heat transferring into your tank.

[C.Eymann]

May I ask why your desired temp is 76? I've always kept my reefs around 80. Definitely agree with replacing in tank power heads with an mp10, that will significantly drop running temperature.

[DustanT]

Had the same issue with a 100w heater, just to test my idea I used a 50w heater. It now stays 77-78 24/7. I'm guessing the bigger heater would have enough heat to over shoot the target temp.

[Rakie]

yes, you can replace some powerheads with a ecotech mp10 pump and not worry about any heat transferring into your tank.

Well I only have 2 Powerheads in my tank. The two MJ are for the Return, and a BRS Mini reactor. Do you really feel replacing the 3.5w Tunze and the 10-20w Jebao would make that much of a difference?



May I ask why your desired temp is 76? I've always kept my reefs around 80. Definitely agree with replacing in tank power heads with an mp10, that will significantly drop running temperature.

The more people I talk with the more I see positive results with cooler temps. It doesn't impede growth, it DOES make it much harder for Algae and illness / pests (from what I've been told). The nicest systems I've been able to see were run at 75*. I think the old 78-80* thing is actually outdated. Especially when I see such glorious tanks run at lower temps, with the owners much happier with their tanks performance.

The MJ's are for a Return / BRS reactor (Carbon & GFO). So only the Tunze (3.5w) or the Jebao (10-20w) could be replaced. Would that really make much of a difference?



Had the same issue with a 100w heater, just to test my idea I used a 50w heater. It now stays 77-78 24/7. I'm guessing the bigger heater would have enough heat to over shoot the target temp.

My heaters are controlled by an Apex, they do not turn on during the day, and my temp is stable at around 78. I have a 150, and a 100w

[C.Eymann]

I don't want to derail your thread, I agree with you that algea wI'll grow slower, pest populations/reproduction will be at a lower rate, but I disagree that growth won't be effected, the rate of calcification, photosynthesis and pretty much all biological processes are heavily dependant on temperature. However like you said, lower temps pros could out weigh the cons.

I think that replacing the Jebao and getting 10watts out will make a good difference in a 29. I know when I replaced my old tunze6101 55w with another mp40. My heater started kicking on a lot more often and my system is about 90 gallons

[Rakie]

Perhaps it is the pro's outweighing the cons. Of those I've seen running at a slightly lower temp (76 and below) they have great and very quick growth. it might be because of lack of algae or some other pest within the system allowing the corals to take advantage.

All I can say for sure, is those that try it never seem to go back, and those I've met have some of the nicer systems I've ever seen.

[soulpatch]

lower temps tend to lead to a bit more growth especially in many LPS like acans but you lose some of the color you tend to get in higher temps. Though depending on your lighting and whether you doe to keep up with demand you will see no gains on lowering your temp. If you have stock bc lighting then good luck...

Max colors are typically shown around the 80 degree mark and growth tends to max around the 76 degree mark or so. That is why the 78 became popular as it is the best of both worlds. Some like to go in one direction though which is fine so long as you know what to expect and are able to handle the increase demands.

As for those who go colder and never go back. Many LOVE it to get fast growth to frag out and such. I know the few people in my circle do it on their DT or grow out tanks but when prepping for a show or swap they have the frags in their frag tanks at higher temps to increase the color prior to sale. There is no right decision in this hobby so you gotta do what's best for you.

[ReefWreak]

lower temps tend to lead to a bit more growth especially in many LPS like acans but you lose some of the color you tend to get in higher temps. Though depending on your lighting and whether you doe to keep up with demand you will see no gains on lowering your temp. If you have stock bc lighting then good luck...

Max colors are typically shown around the 80 degree mark and growth tends to max around the 76 degree mark or so. That is why the 78 became popular as it is the best of both worlds. Some like to go in one direction though which is fine so long as you know what to expect and are able to handle the increase demands.

As for those who go colder and never go back. Many LOVE it to get fast growth to frag out and such. I know the few people in my circle do it on their DT or grow out tanks but when prepping for a show or swap they have the frags in their frag tanks at higher temps to increase the color prior to sale. There is no right decision in this hobby so you gotta do what's best for you.

That's a really interesting discussion. I've never heard those perspectives on temperature. I'll do some googling for sources to investigate.

I've always heard that higher temp = higher growth all around, corals, algaes, etc., because of faster biological processes, up until around 84-85 where bleaching starts to become a problem.

With that theory, people usually recommend keeping the temps around 78 as a function of that is the natural average temperature of tropical reefs, and it gives you more buffer in case your AC/cooling goes out and your tank heats up. You have further to go from 78 to 85 than from 81 to 85. I keep my tank around 77-78 in the winter and 80-81 in the summer. Haven't hooked up the chiller yet :headwallblue:

[Rakie]

lower temps tend to lead to a bit more growth especially in many LPS like acans but you lose some of the color you tend to get in higher temps. Though depending on your lighting and whether you doe to keep up with demand you will see no gains on lowering your temp. If you have stock bc lighting then good luck...

Max colors are typically shown around the 80 degree mark and growth tends to max around the 76 degree mark or so. That is why the 78 became popular as it is the best of both worlds. Some like to go in one direction though which is fine so long as you know what to expect and are able to handle the increase demands.

As for those who go colder and never go back. Many LOVE it to get fast growth to frag out and such. I know the few people in my circle do it on their DT or grow out tanks but when prepping for a show or swap they have the frags in their frag tanks at higher temps to increase the color prior to sale. There is no right decision in this hobby so you gotta do what's best for you.


Thanks for the info. I thought the old 78* standard was a holdover from Fresh Water. Those i've met who run at lower temp have pretty great colors, but they're also running high quality everything, and dosing regularly.

I'm running a Radion on my Biocube if you were asking.


That's a really interesting discussion. I've never heard those perspectives on temperature. I'll do some googling for sources to investigate.

I've always heard that higher temp = higher growth all around, corals, algaes, etc., because of faster biological processes, up until around 84-85 where bleaching starts to become a problem.

Same, until recently. I was really surprised to hear this. I assumed it was because the lower temp put pests/algae in a downswing, giving corals the edge to really take advantage of everything they could.

Mostly I was trying to avoid what you said your reef goes through -- Temps above 80*. Just looking for stability.

[soulpatch]

I'm not saying you have bland corals at low temp but you do sacrifice a lot of color you could have.

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[piusma]

Somehow answering to both of your threads there, my biggest trouble comes from my lights. i have a modded BC29 which is running on LEDs. My tank temp starts climbing the moment my lights goes on.

Other than running a fan, you could use a smaller chiller. My chiller keeps my tank temp well BUT it makes the room real hot!! But I love it because of how well it keeps the tank temp within a small range.

[ReefWreak]

Somehow answering to both of your threads there, my biggest trouble comes from my lights. i have a modded BC29 which is running on LEDs. My tank temp starts climbing the moment my lights goes on.

Other than running a fan, you could use a smaller chiller. My chiller keeps my tank temp well BUT it makes the room real hot!! But I love it because of how well it keeps the tank temp within a small range.
Dang. What LEDs are you using? Do you have the hood ventilation running? I almost can't imagine an led fixture causing enough heat to go into the tank to make a difference if it is properly ventilated, unless it's just a ton of light.

Also worth considering of the lights come on in the morning, and the room also heats up in the morning, that's probably the cause, not the LEDs, again if properly sized and ventilated.

[DustanT]

Your house temperature has a big role in tank temps to, you could try to keep it under 74 that's where mine stays most of the summer, winter is another story :)

[C.Eymann]

Cool little mini chiller is just hitting the market for you nano guys.
Google search -zensui tegaru

RC won't let me post a link to it

[ReefWreak]

Looks like a larger version of the already existing TEC powered chillers. They make them for drilled-hole installation, HOB installation, and in-line. The first two are the CoolWorks Ice Probe, and then Marine Depot sells an inline one that is effectively the same concept, but flow-through. But concept and (in)efficiency is the same. The only nice part is if that one is particularly cheaper. Otherwise it just has nicer packaging.

Good to keep in mind though.

[Rakie]

Your house temperature has a big role in tank temps to, you could try to keep it under 74 that's where mine stays most of the summer, winter is another story :)

I'm from SoCal, which is a Semi-arid region (aka, half-assed desert). Summer was bringing house temps up to 95* last year -_- my tank stays about 5* above room temp. So I'll be gifting my tank a sweet fan soon.

I'm not sure if this is a good idea either.. But I may throw my ATO in a Styrofoam cooler and throw in a bunch of RO/DI ice in the water.

[soulpatch]

I don't get how people would allow their home to get so hot but to each their own. If you are getting up to 95 in the room I don't think a fan is going to help and you will seriously need to look into a chiler. I would post up in your local forum to see what other options people are doing to keep temps in check...

[C.Eymann]

Agreed, how do you guys an gals sleep? Currently about 90with 70% humidity where I live, house is still kept at 68.
If it is over 70 I can't sleep.

[Rakie]

I don't get how people would allow their home to get so hot but to each their own. If you are getting up to 95 in the room I don't think a fan is going to help and you will seriously need to look into a chiler. I would post up in your local forum to see what other options people are doing to keep temps in check...

Whaa? Why would you assume we *let* our houses get that hot? It's called summer. Summer = nearly 90-95* days in So Cal.

My area (Huntington BEACH) was built on the premise that if you get hot, open a window for cool ocean breeze. Well, that was true in the 60's and 70's, but it's not true anymore. So Air Conditioning wasn't built into almost any of the homes or buildings before the late 90's.

My house was built before Air Conditioners were a thing, about 40 years before my city actually needed them (my parents and relatives cry about how hot summers have gotten. Our average temp is up 15*+ during summer now)

[Rakie]

Agreed, how do you guys an gals sleep? Currently about 90with 70% humidity where I live, house is still kept at 68.
If it is over 70 I can't sleep.

Not comfortably -_-

My house is old, 1/2 from the beach, in a city where Air Conditioners weren't necessary until around 2005+. A scorching summer day used to be like 84* when I was a kid -- Last summer we hit 90-95* average almost daily.

[soulpatch]

They have window units and the new wall units to solve for lack of forced air ac. Had it done in our beach house.

So yes with options out there one let's their house get up to 90. You of course have your reasons but still a choice. We get upper 90s here as well but I have ac and my home doesn't get above 74 all year...

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[Rakie]

They have window units and the new wall units to solve for lack of forced air ac. Had it done in our beach house.

So yes with options out there one let's their house get up to 90. You of course have your reasons but still a choice. We get upper 90s here as well but I have ac and my home doesn't get above 74 all year...

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Unfortunately I actually don't have a choice. While at college I'm a caretaker for my grandmother. She has a legit phobia of change. That's more than I wanted to have to divulge, but an AC unit is not an option I'm afraid -- At least not while I'm living here. Any other ideas are welcome.

[ReefWreak]

If your house is going to approach >85 degrees, you will have a very hard time keeping a tank cool. You can buy a chiller or build a "bong" cooler (or I think Tunze and Deltec sell them in europe), but you're not going to be able to keep the tank cool with just fans I don't think.

[soulpatch]

yup agree with Reef. Fans are ok to drop a couple degrees though they do it via evap so you would have to keep ATO cooled as well.

At this point you are pretty much at chiller level. It is only way you will drop that 10+ degrees you need to while still able to keep all over things on the tank running.

Even ice blocks in the ATO would barely affect the tank as the amount of water would be minimal added through the day and the water held in the line would rise in temp as it awaits pushing into tank. Freezing bottles and such works if you want to do a sump though.

[d0ughb0y]

Not all that 65 watts turn to heat (except for the heater of course). I'd say probably 20%.

What is your room ambient temperature? Do you keep a lid on your tank?

I run my tank cooler during winter (76) and warmer during summer (81). I have a fan but it rarely turns on. The ambient summer temp rarely goes above 80 (no AC) here in sf Bay Area. This summer, so far we had 2 100+ degrees days and I had the AC on.

[Rakie]

Not all that 65 watts turn to heat (except for the heater of course). I'd say probably 20%.

What is your room ambient temperature? Do you keep a lid on your tank?

I run my tank cooler during winter (76) and warmer during summer (81). I have a fan but it rarely turns on. The ambient summer temp rarely goes above 80 (no AC) here in sf Bay Area. This summer, so far we had 2 100+ degrees days and I had the AC on.

No hood, room temp is as cool as I can manage to make it. We just got a new roof, so we may actually be cooler now than it's ever been in my lifetime.

My heaters are plugged into my apex, and they do not ever turn on until night time. During the day they're off completely.

I installed my GFO / Carbon reactor on a hot day, I decided just to see what may happen to unplug it on the next cool day. My tank regularly dropped low enough to turn on my heater with the MJ1200 turned off.

That single MJ1200 might be the last straw. It's been relatively cool lately and temp still hits 78 without heaters, so I've been trying to get a grip on this.

[ReefWreak]

If you can control the temperature through just not running one MJ1200, then just run the GFO and carbon passively. It'll do some proportion less of a job, but better than overheating the tank and worrying about it.

[soulpatch]

Yeah I would scrap the reactor if you can stay reasonable without that pump and just use media bags.

[Rakie]

Yeah if it comes down to that I'll just turn the reactor off during the day and turn it back on at night, I didn't think turning off on MJ1200 could make such a difference.

it also may help turning the Jebao down.