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rickcaylor
06/27/2016, 10:30 PM
Hi,

I have a 130 gallon salt water tank and it has a Check Valve in it that would normally make about 3 large flapping sounds when I shut off the tank to feed daily. Recently, the flapper in the Check Valve will continue to flap loudly and allow water to flow into the sump. My returns are high enough in the tank, so the sump will not overflow, but was told by the company that originally installed the tank that the valve helps to keep the pump primed when starting back up.

So at first, I slightly opened up the nut on the top of the check valve with the pump running, thinking it just may have air in the line and let some water seep out and then retighten. It seemed to help and it started working like normal for just a few days and then went back to flapping continually when turning the tank off.

So I took the Check Valve out and cleaned it. It did not seem extra dirty or slimy and after cleaning and looking at it, the flapper seemed to be alright.

So I installed it again and started the tank and then stopped it and the flapping continued. I can unscrew the nut above the check valve just a slight amount with the pump running and I guess it is letting in some air? and the flapper will stop and seal and then I just retighten the nut, then feed and turn the tank back on.

I have read where many folks say to just take the Check Valve out, but if I want to keep the valve in line, does anyone know if it is just likely that the check valve spring is worn out and not as strong as what it was when the tank was new? Should I just replace the Check Valve or consider changing the amount of water flow?

Figure I should just buy a new valve and see if that was it, but thought I would ask to see if anyone has experienced this same problem.

Thanks in Advance!

Rick

Vinny Kreyling
06/28/2016, 10:29 AM
Try some Teflon plumbers sealant (Rectorseal) on the threads & see if it helps.
Personally I don't use them because of the failure rate in Saltwater.

ca1ore
06/28/2016, 12:09 PM
No good reason I can think of to keep it, including the one given by the installer (unless your return pump sits higher than the resting water level in your sump).

Sounds Fishy
06/28/2016, 04:52 PM
Examining the check valve for signs of deterioration or blockage,didn't help..The one I use on my return line is about one year old,works fine.They can require cleaning annually or they may not function 100%.Yours is probably worn,somehow.Maybe a worn bushing,perhaps.

rickcaylor
06/29/2016, 09:06 PM
Thank you all for replying and sharing your knowledge with me.

I had already tried the Teflon plumbers tape and that made no change. The pump is in the sump underneath the 130 gallon tank and is not higher than the resting water, so I will try cleaning again and if no change I will either change it or remove it. Over 45 years of doing fresh water, but just over a year on this Salt Water Venture and still learning.

azjohnny
07/04/2016, 08:01 AM
I would replace the check valve with a a wye style, they are weighted and rely on gravity, can be dismantled easily and cleaned. I have one that has union ball valved on each end for easy removal and I clean mine every 3 months

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/georg-fischer-wye-check-valve.html#tab-full-details

SeaAgg09
07/07/2016, 10:54 AM
I would replace the check valve with a a wye style, they are weighted and rely on gravity, can be dismantled easily and cleaned. I have one that has union ball valved on each end for easy removal and I clean mine every 3 months

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/georg-fischer-wye-check-valve.html#tab-full-details


Totally agree on this one. I've worked with all sizes of the traditional check valves, and they all manage to fail on me. In hard freshwater and especially saltwater, the seals get hard and brittle, and no longer seal.

Wye style valves are easy to clean. You can also hunt around and get replacement parts for the wye style, making it much easier to replace the parts over time.