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neiltus
07/24/2016, 09:16 AM
Back in the hobby after 20 years...things have changed...

Setting up a Reefer 350 and considering the 50w and mini 160, will also most likely be using the 'New' Apex controller.

1) Both of the items...seem 'appropriate' for the application?
2) Connecting the Apex to the tethered controller on the 50w pump...what do I need? Does the controller just plug into the 8 power strip or is there another connector for more functions (1link, etc)?

I have searched a few threads, and see that the 50w is attached to the controller and it does not need the 10v module. I would assume this would limit me to the standard features of simple on/off and voltage drop alarms. I would just use the attached controller to set the wattage...

Regards

slief
07/24/2016, 09:44 AM
I assume you mean the Red Sea Reefer 350 which is 275 gallons? If so, the Mini 160 would be way too small for that sized display unless you had a really light load. Instead I would suggest the Double Cone 200 or a Mini 200. I am not sure if there is enough space in your sump for the Double Cone 200 though. According the specs on the sumps skimmer chamber for the RS350, the the Double Cone 200 should fit fine as it has a footprint of 12.75 X 15.8 and the sump has a chamber size of 16.5" X 13.4". I don't see anything regarding the available height within the stand though I think it should fit fine. That skimmer is about 21.5" tall.

As for the RD3 50, those are not Apex controllable. That said, there is no good reason to use the Apex to control the return pump other than ON/OFF for maintenance purposes. It's far easier to push the button on the controller to adjust the speed of the pump as opposed to creating profiles to find the 0-10 voltage that meets the displays flow needs. Besides on a tank that size, you will may end up running the pump near full speed anyways assuming about a 60" head height with friction loss. Then again, Redsea suggests a flow rate of around 790GPH which would be closer to 30 watts. Using the RD3 controller to adjust the speed will allow you finer control to adjust the speed in order to silence the drains. You also won't have to fiddle with profiles to try to tune your drains. The pump runs silent at any speed too.

Going back to the 0-10v control. I run a pair of RD3 230's on my display. One for my return and one for my closed loop. While both are 0-10v controllable, I only use my Apex to control the closed loop. The return is a set it and forget it pump and I saw absolutely no justifiable reason to connect it to the Apex other than the power outlet. The closed loop was a different story since I have a few different profiles I use that change from day to night. During the day I run a set speed and have a flush S cycle that ramps the pump up further in conjunction with the flush cycle on my Tunze's. At night I slow the closed loop pump down which reduces my power consumption when the fish aren't active.

If you really feel you need 0-10v control over your return pump, then the RD3 80 with the separate 0-10v interface and the Apex cable would be what you would need as it is presently the only smaller pump with the 0-10v control option. Again, that feature on a return pump is a waste of money IMO on a pump that should otherwise be a set it and forget it device. You are adding unnecessary complexity and cost to your build.

vhuang168
07/24/2016, 09:52 AM
The Red Sea Reefer 350 is 73g or 275l.


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neiltus
07/24/2016, 09:57 AM
The Red Sea Reefer 350 is 73g or 275l.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What he said.

FWIW, I have never overlooked a conversion...ha

ReefClownMIA
07/24/2016, 10:03 AM
I have a Reefer 450, and run an oversized Double Cone 180 w/ RD3, and a RD3 80w return pump; throttled back to 62w's. I'll be running some media filters off the return pump soon.
The 80w pump is 10v controllable and have it connected to my GHL ProfiLux for speed control.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160724/ef2c6997ea10d43edceb81ee886c56de.jpg


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slief
07/24/2016, 10:03 AM
LOL... Yea, Marco just called me to advise me those specs were in Liters not gallons.. That'll teach me to look closer at the specs. Especially in the morning. :hammer:

OK. So the Mini 160 would be a fine choice and would be perfect for that display size. The RD3 50 would also work just fine and based on the flow requirements, should only require around 30 watts of power to drive that thing. The comments about the 0-10v still apply. :thumbsup:

neiltus
07/24/2016, 10:32 AM
No problems sleif, I appreciate your and Marco's responses and and still getting the coffee in me.

I assume the 80w would be overkill? On both the 50w and 80w what is the lowest watt setting via the controller?

Marco-do you have an equipment listing of your tank somewhere...curious as to what heads/controller your using...

ReefClownMIA
07/24/2016, 10:53 AM
No problems sleif, I appreciate your and Marco's responses and and still getting the coffee in me.

I assume the 80w would be overkill? On both the 50w and 80w what is the lowest watt setting via the controller?

Marco-do you have an equipment listing of your tank somewhere...curious as to what heads/controller your using...

If I recall correctly, 14w is the lowest speed setting on the 80w. I have one laying around I'll check in a bit.

As for overkill? The 50w is perfect, if you don't run reactors. If you're planning on running a reactor(s), I think 1 may be OK, but 2x may be pushing it. I first ran the 50w on my 450 - wide open, was perfect.

The 80w is not that much more expensive, for the additional possibility of flow - can always throttle is back.

My build thread on our local MAS/club forum.
http://www.swfmas.com/forum/index.php?/topic/11439-cristina-marcos-little-ocean-revision-17b/

slief
07/24/2016, 12:03 PM
If I recall correctly, 14w is the lowest speed setting on the 80w. I have one laying around I'll check in a bit.

As for overkill? The 50w is perfect, if you don't run reactors. If you're planning on running a reactor(s), I think 1 may be OK, but 2x may be pushing it. I first ran the 50w on my 450 - wide open, was perfect.

The 80w is not that much more expensive, for the additional possibility of flow - can always throttle is back.

My build thread on our local MAS/club forum.
http://www.swfmas.com/forum/index.php?/topic/11439-cristina-marcos-little-ocean-revision-17b/


Even with 2 small media rectors (carbon & gfo) the 50 with its 2000 GPH should be sufficient. 80w would be overkill IMO for that size tank.

slief
07/24/2016, 12:23 PM
If I recall correctly, 14w is the lowest speed setting on the 80w. I have one laying around I'll check in a bit.

As for overkill? The 50w is perfect, if you don't run reactors. If you're planning on running a reactor(s), I think 1 may be OK, but 2x may be pushing it. I first ran the 50w on my 450 - wide open, was perfect.

The 80w is not that much more expensive, for the additional possibility of flow - can always throttle is back.

My build thread on our local MAS/club forum.
http://www.swfmas.com/forum/index.php?/topic/11439-cristina-marcos-little-ocean-revision-17b/

On the flip side, the cost different between the 50 and the 80 is so close that it almost makes sense to go with the 80 over the 50 if there is space in the return compartment which there should be. It would also allow more room for growth and would insure that without a doubt, there would be more than enough flow at your disposal for even large reactors or more than 2.

neiltus
07/25/2016, 12:08 PM
Well, got the RD3 50w and the BK 160 from Prem Aqua...

slief
07/25/2016, 01:11 PM
Well, got the RD3 50w and the BK 160 from Prem Aqua...

I'm betting you will love both! Be sure to post some pictures once you get it all setup!

neiltus
07/26/2016, 06:54 PM
The RD3 50w has a 25mm female output. I am going to the 16mm barb on the reefer. Suggestions on how to do this? Also, what is the thread pattern used on the pump?

ReefClownMIA
07/26/2016, 08:09 PM
The RD3 50w has a 25mm female output. I am going to the 16mm barb on the reefer. Suggestions on how to do this? Also, what is the thread pattern used on the pump?

The 50w will come with both a 25mm and a 3/4" bushing for the union fitting.
I personally glued in a 3/4" piece of sch80 / sprinkler pipe into the bushing, the. Used Silicon from pump to RedSea plumbing.

neiltus
07/26/2016, 08:20 PM
Ok, so you have a riser coming out a few inches of the bushing and you put a female barb on the riser to connect to the silicone? I think that is what I see in your photo.

ReefClownMIA
07/26/2016, 08:31 PM
Ok, so you have a riser coming out a few inches of the bushing and you put a female barb on the riser to connect to the silicone? I think that is what I see in your photo.



Pretty much.
So the sprinkler pipes are usually double threaded .... Short pieces anywhere from 1" - 12" I think.

On the 50w I had a 2-4" piece, and cut it in 1/2, glued the slip into the bushing, and "threaded" the silicon hose onto the threaded pipe. Held fine!

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160727/c7edd010d878122115c895ef7459e532.png

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160727/6b0085ee5315161809a612967c82b9fb.png


Now on the 80w, I used a thread adapter that I glued into the 1" slip bushing, the. Used a 3" piece of the double threaded pipe and threaded that into the reducer bushing

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160727/755ef84883cb19b40c9f4c770abc266b.png


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slief
07/26/2016, 11:48 PM
Pretty much.
So the sprinkler pipes are usually double threaded .... Short pieces anywhere from 1" - 12" I think.

On the 50w I had a 2-4" piece, and cut it in 1/2, glued the slip into the bushing, and "threaded" the silicon hose onto the threaded pipe. Held fine!

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160727/c7edd010d878122115c895ef7459e532.png

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160727/6b0085ee5315161809a612967c82b9fb.png


Now on the 80w, I used a thread adapter that I glued into the 1" slip bushing, the. Used a 3" piece of the double threaded pipe and threaded that into the reducer bushing

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160727/755ef84883cb19b40c9f4c770abc266b.png


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm going to use that method when I install the RD3 50 on Jim's system. Great idea. Probably less ID reduction than a 3/4" barbed fitting.

neiltus
07/27/2016, 07:25 AM
The instructions say to only step down one 'size' of pipe, so this Marco's suggestion like the best route.

Plus, I have a ton of sprinkler pipe in the garage from 'fixing' my wife's driving skills.

jporter
07/27/2016, 10:29 AM
Well, got the RD3 50w and the BK 160 from Prem Aqua...

You are going to be really impressed with your purchase. I too upgraded to the BK skimmer and return pump a few months ago. These pumps are absolutely dead silent and the build quality of it all is top notch. Plus the support when needed is outstanding. JP

neiltus
07/27/2016, 04:10 PM
You are going to be really impressed with your purchase. I too upgraded to the BK skimmer and return pump a few months ago. These pumps are absolutely dead silent and the build quality of it all is top notch. Plus the support when needed is outstanding. JP

LOL. I have not had a tank since 95. My last two tanks had homemade skimmers with stones, MH + VHO, stands/sumps/overflow was all made by me. Ran 2-200 oceanics that way-one reef one with big ole mean trigger and Harq tusk.

Been moving with work/school for 20 years. Settled down and the kids wanted an aquarium. Wife OK'ed it with enthusiasm. Looked and wow...technology has changed. Rock has changed, livestock choices are better as well as the economics.

Start the plumbing tomorrow. Hopefully salt and RO unit will show up this weekend. Still reading on where to get rock/sand from...probably go to Premium Aq...read some decent things about their rock, also considering TBS.

ReefClownMIA
07/28/2016, 08:04 PM
LOL. I have not had a tank since 95. My last two tanks had homemade skimmers with stones, MH + VHO, stands/sumps/overflow was all made by me. Ran 2-200 oceanics that way-one reef one with big ole mean trigger and Harq tusk.

Been moving with work/school for 20 years. Settled down and the kids wanted an aquarium. Wife OK'ed it with enthusiasm. Looked and wow...technology has changed. Rock has changed, livestock choices are better as well as the economics.

Start the plumbing tomorrow. Hopefully salt and RO unit will show up this weekend. Still reading on where to get rock/sand from...probably go to Premium Aq...read some decent things about their rock, also considering TBS.

TBS has some very interesting rock packages, and if you're into hitchhikers, TBS probably has some of the best. Always free stuff shipping along.

Past few years I've been using BRS's dry Pukani rock - done well for me, very porous and light - a few pounds go a long way with that stuff.

neiltus
07/28/2016, 09:02 PM
Marco, are you 'seeding' the BRS rock with anything? Still on the fence about rock. Last time I bought rock it was pretty much 'fiji' or called that in the local market. Also considering Manado from PA. I am still reading up about dry rock...honestly, don't know much about doing it that way.

Skimmer and pump arrived today, first impressions on the skimmer are that it is a simple efficient design...orientation in the reefer sump would be easier if the adjustment was to the left of the pump vs the right...but I realize the reefer sump is the red-headed step child of sumps. Hopefully I can get my RO unit in this weekend to start filling the tank and making the necessary connections.

I appreciate everyones prompt help in this thread.

ReefClownMIA
07/28/2016, 09:18 PM
I've got to be completely honest, one of these days I'd love to do a Florida reef tank.

Use TBS rock, gorgonians, whips, rics, zoas, grasses and macro algaes, etc ... But very Florida like rock look.

Yes, when I buy BRS, I usually let that cycle, then add in a rock or two from an established tank... Over the years I've learned patience, and these days I take a month to cycle a tank. Add water, salt, substrate and rock... Turn off lights and come back in a month. I don't bother checking nitrate, nitrite, ammonia.

neiltus
07/28/2016, 10:03 PM
I like themed or geography based tanks...however it can be a stocking headache of sorts.

neiltus
08/01/2016, 07:32 PM
So, what type of grease do we grease the uptake tube with?

slief
08/01/2016, 07:59 PM
So, what type of grease do we grease the uptake tube with?

Not sure what you mean by uptake tube but if you are talking about the return line that would slip over the fitting, you could use silicone grease on the inside of the hose but hot water is usually all it takes to soften the hose up enough to slip over the end of a pipe or barbed fitting.

neiltus
08/04/2016, 08:02 PM
The 50w has about a 3' cord-prob 1 meter.

I have 2 options,

1)put the controller box for the RD3 on the non-sump side of the 350. There is plenty of length to get to the pump from the non-sump side of the 350. However servicing the pump would require removal of all the through glass fittings to thread the power box through.

2) put the controller box for the RD3 on the sump side. The cord barely makes it to the apex strip on the other side. It's tight, but makes pulling the pump MUCH easier.

Hint to RE...longer cord to control box.

vhuang168
08/04/2016, 08:17 PM
The 50w has about a 3' cord-prob 1 meter.

Hint to RE...longer cord to control box.

I would also like a connector somewhere long the wire. This would allow much easier routing as well as pulling the pump to service without having to remove the control box as well!

ReefClownMIA
08/04/2016, 10:10 PM
The box is rated for moist environments, and can take the sump side just fine. Obviously don't submerge it ... LOL!

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160805/1eff3f8dd09ce3d3e89597debd9f8e13.jpg


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neiltus
08/06/2016, 05:45 PM
Well, filling the tank with fresh to do a trial run of the pump, check my temp and get the apex connected...if there is an issue, (doubt there will be-already tested pump) I will not be draining 40 bucks of salt. Very curious if my temps stay good with current AC settings, might have to tweak that some as it's 100 during the day and cooling to 80 at night.

http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l531/neiltus/aquarium/CCCC7157-A525-459E-B41B-C38F2AAC9A17_zpspf5iiiev.jpg

neiltus
08/07/2016, 08:28 PM
Extremely quiet pump...got the tank filled with fresh, dialing in pump and the infamous reefer overflow valve (not that hard).

Brief question-I set the RD3 50w to 32 watts, and the display reads 26-27 and alternates...what is this telling me? (or trying to tell me)

slief
08/08/2016, 08:31 AM
Extremely quiet pump...got the tank filled with fresh, dialing in pump and the infamous reefer overflow valve (not that hard).

Brief question-I set the RD3 50w to 32 watts, and the display reads 26-27 and alternates...what is this telling me? (or trying to tell me)
You actually have it set to 26-27 watts. The 26-27 is the actual watts it's running at once the pump speed settled in.

neiltus
08/08/2016, 02:40 PM
No-my description is gray...apologies,

I set it to 32w via the buttons, and it never goes over the 26-27w. The pump is on, submerged in sump, but when I dial 32 or 24 via the buttons, it just settles in in the 26-27 range. I can up it to 40w, but it seems the pump always runs about 5-7w under its setting.

I wonder if this is watt loss due to head?

slief
08/08/2016, 03:23 PM
No-my description is gray...apologies,

I set it to 32w via the buttons, and it never goes over the 26-27w. The pump is on, submerged in sump, but when I dial 32 or 24 via the buttons, it just settles in in the 26-27 range. I can up it to 40w, but it seems the pump always runs about 5-7w under its setting.

I wonder if this is watt loss due to head?

Yes it is due to the head. When you push the buttons up or down, the pump is actually reducing or increasing the pump speed based on percentage. Obvious that translates to watts. When you increase or decrease the speed of the pump, the pump will go to what it thinks the percentage to achieve that wattage at 0 head. Increased head pressure actually reduces the power consumption on the pump which is why you see a lower display wattage than when you first hit the buttons. Also, these pumps are soft start and have a slow ramp up. When you press the buttons to increase or decrease the speed, it takes several seconds or less depending on the speed setting for the pump to get to that speed which is why the first numbers you see aren't the actual wattage. Once the pump speed ramps up to your set point, it will display the actual wattage being consumed and it's remarkably accurate. I compared my RD3 230 wattage on the display to my Kill-A-Watt meter and was surprised to see it be spot on.

neiltus
08/08/2016, 03:54 PM
Thank you Slief. I appreciate your and Clown's help.

I will say, I am impressed with this pump...it's dead silent. The Tunze 6095 heads have more noise to them.

Plugging in and playing with the skimmer soon.

slief
08/08/2016, 05:44 PM
Thank you Slief. I appreciate your and Clown's help.

I will say, I am impressed with this pump...it's dead silent. The Tunze 6095 heads have more noise to them.

Plugging in and playing with the skimmer soon.

Very glad to help. They really are silent too. That isn't even an understatement as they are truly dead silent. Like you I run Tunze's in my display. I also have a pair of RD3 230's. One for my return and one for my closed loop. I started with one of the 230's running my closed loop and when I first set it up and plugged it in, I thought it was dead. My closed loop returns under my rocks and the pump made no noise at full power and no vibration. I kind of panicked at first until I looked under my live rock and saw the little bit of sand that was trapped under there being blasted out. I was very pleasantly surprised. Unlike my RD3's, I can hear my 3 Tunze's but after a year and half, these RD3's are still silent.

My bedroom upstairs is directly above my tank which is downstairs. These RD3's replaced a pair of Reeflo Superdart Golds. My pumps are external and located under the tank which is built in to the house as a peninsula and completely drywalled in around all sides. I could hear those Superdarts in my bedroom as there was always a constant hum that resonated through the walls and ceiling. It wasn't bad but you could hear them. When I switched to the RD3's, there was a very noticeable silence in my bedroom. After 17 years (at the time) in this house and having noisier pumps on my system, I was pretty well used to that hum. In fact, I didn't even really notice the hum until I installed the RD3's. The silence upstairs as a result of the pump change was really weird and made me realize just how quiet these are and how noisy the Darts were which were the quietest pumps I have ever run on my system up until the RD3's. With these RD's, I can't even use the term "quiet". They aren't quiet. They are silent.

neiltus
08/13/2016, 08:31 PM
Put rock in today...waited a few hours, turned on the skimmer.

Feel like I am overlooking the obvious with the water level. Thoughts?

http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l531/neiltus/aquarium/6D7398CC-F71B-400D-BDB0-E0C93C999651_zps2jfr8ieh.jpg

http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l531/neiltus/aquarium/E2DD3397-6E0B-46A2-AA31-D6685B67C127_zpsyoeosgnk.jpg

http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l531/neiltus/aquarium/9C024A77-E96A-4D3B-8FD6-BDC040D310A2_zpsbyo1znkx.jpg

ReefClownMIA
08/13/2016, 09:36 PM
Water level should be between 7-9" in the sump, I believe you're right around that, no?

You may have to close the wedge pipe a little bit, however I'd do that int he morning to keep an eye on the skimmer, in case it starts to overflow. Your tank is still new, and most likely if you added the rock in today, the surface tension of the water is off... should work itself out within a couple days latest is my guess...

neiltus
08/13/2016, 10:16 PM
Think it's 9.4" in that skimmer portion of the sump. Riser?

slief
08/13/2016, 11:23 PM
Water level should be between 7-9" in the sump, I believe you're right around that, no?

You may have to close the wedge pipe a little bit, however I'd do that int he morning to keep an eye on the skimmer, in case it starts to overflow. Your tank is still new, and most likely if you added the rock in today, the surface tension of the water is off... should work itself out within a couple days latest is my guess...

I agree. The live rock changed the surface tension and the skimmer will be fine in a couple days. In fact, I would open the wedge pipe up a bit to be safe as it may want to overflow when it kicks back in if the wedge is too closed. If anything dies off on the rocks, that will exacerbate things once the skimmers settles back in. Either way, I think the skimmer will be fine by this time tomorrow morning if not sooner so keep an eye on it.

neiltus
08/14/2016, 09:39 AM
Thanks guys-I am going to cut some pvc for a riser today. maybe 1".

slief
08/14/2016, 12:10 PM
Thanks guys-I am going to cut some pvc for a riser today. maybe 1".

Yea, A 1" stand would be a good starting point. If it was working well before, you may not even need a stand if you have a really light load. Then again, if you raise it up, you have the wedge pipe to adjust the water level in the skimmer so you are safe even if you do raise the skimmer up.

neiltus
08/15/2016, 02:23 PM
Thoughts on setting? If I close anymore I get water. I assume I just need to wait longer!

http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l531/neiltus/aquarium/E32D6EC0-D78E-487E-9ED1-9E8806034BF9_zpsgdaft2la.jpg

slief
08/15/2016, 08:59 PM
Thoughts on setting? If I close anymore I get water. I assume I just need to wait longer!

http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l531/neiltus/aquarium/E32D6EC0-D78E-487E-9ED1-9E8806034BF9_zpsgdaft2la.jpg

This is a new system right? Skimmers need dissolved organics to produce good foam. Since your system is brand new, you don't really have any proteins in the water for good foam fractioning. Also, it takes a week or so for a skimmer to break in. You're going to need to wait a bit and also add some load. Until you get fish in there and feeding, that skimmer will not produce nor will you get good foam.

neiltus
08/16/2016, 06:25 AM
It's a new system yes. It also has about 75# of TBS live rock in it.

It started producing last night. I opened the choke for overnight and will close it some today while I am around.

neiltus
08/18/2016, 05:51 PM
I got a pretty good layer of scum on the bottom of the removable reservoir as well as the neck tube going up to the reservoir, not the neck in the reservoir.

I decided that buildup was preventing any accumulation above it. I pulled the skimmer, removed the reservoir and cleaned it (also had a powder from the live sand dust on the pump that I wanted to clean. I also noticed that my bubble creating horizontal circle thingy (nice name feel free to use it) was pushed off to the side.

After cleaning I put back in, ran it for 6 hours without reservoir (on a more open setting) and now am getting more scum. I am thinking I might have had a layer of sand dust the cone.

Anyway...pleased. It's getting some stuff, but considering there is no food load in the tank...I am happy.

slief
08/18/2016, 06:33 PM
I got a pretty good layer of scum on the bottom of the removable reservoir as well as the neck tube going up to the reservoir, not the neck in the reservoir.

I decided that buildup was preventing any accumulation above it. I pulled the skimmer, removed the reservoir and cleaned it (also had a powder from the live sand dust on the pump that I wanted to clean. I also noticed that my bubble creating horizontal circle thingy (nice name feel free to use it) was pushed off to the side.

After cleaning I put back in, ran it for 6 hours without reservoir (on a more open setting) and now am getting more scum. I am thinking I might have had a layer of sand dust the cone.

Anyway...pleased. It's getting some stuff, but considering there is no food load in the tank...I am happy.


I think that "bubble creating circle thingy" you are talking about is the nozzle. Very happy to hear it seems to be performing better. Once you get some fish in the tank and some consistent waste for the skimmer to do something with, it will begin performing much better.

neiltus
08/28/2016, 01:54 PM
Two week + 1 day and I am getting stuff up into the neck...it's a start.

The brown ring below the water max line...do I need to clean that off, or will it reduce the ability for skimmate to be produced?

My NO3 has been around 50ppm, PO4 around .5, No NH4 or NO2. I did a 50% water change last week to see how long the NO3 would stay down, I got a day, then back up to 50ppm. Since this was live rock that never came out of the water, I assume the die off will just continue to turn into NO3, so I started carbon dosing 3ml of nopox (much easier than chasing it with water changes) and will slowly work up if necessary.

http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l531/neiltus/aquarium/9B1D28FF-5B32-4D93-AFE6-F2E37929E8BA_zps4ke5rryy.jpg

ReefClownMIA
08/28/2016, 02:02 PM
Go ahead and close the output/wedge tube some to bring up the water level inside the skimmer body. You'll want the transition, the part where water turns to bubbles right at the neck.... Right around where it shows the water line on the sticker. Every tank is different, but that's a good starting point.

neiltus
08/28/2016, 02:18 PM
Go ahead and close the output/wedge tube some to bring up the water level inside the skimmer body. You'll want the transition, the part where water turns to bubbles right at the neck.... Right around where it shows the water line on the sticker. Every tank is different, but that's a good starting point.

I pulled the head earlier, and it appears my waterline is just about at the ***** mark on that sticker. Just can't tell in the photo with all the crud, unless I am missing something.

ReefClownMIA
08/28/2016, 02:44 PM
You'll want to clean the crud out of there... :)

neiltus
08/28/2016, 04:04 PM
...did it, and closed the valve a bit.

neiltus
09/07/2016, 01:06 PM
http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l531/neiltus/aquarium/B02D75B8-EDD2-4DF0-9055-A7F96DCF7F5B_zpskepzl7gl.jpgThis is about a week worth of crap...looking good. Lot of crap for no fish in the tank.