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View Full Version : Introducing The Gapper 400 GPD RO System


Buckeye Hydro
11/19/2016, 09:31 AM
Are residential-scale RO systems too slow, and commercial RO systems too expensive for your application? We often hear this from folks with large tanks, and from pet stores as well. If you've tried line pressure RO systems that use commercial membranes, you know that configuration leaves something to be desired.

Meet The Gapper - an RO system that utilizes the best of both worlds to deliver up to 400 gpd at an incredibly affordable price! True to its name, the Gapper fills the gap between traditional residential scale RO's that produce up to 200 gpd, and commercial RO's that typically begin at 500 gpd.

The Gapper features three 20" x 2.5" standard-sized prefilters - one sediment filter and two carbon blocks; an extra low energy, made-in-the-USA commercial RO membrane; liquid-filled pressure gauge; high pressure pump with strainer; auto flush valve; feed water solenoid valve; housing wrench; and an incredible 1:1 waste water to purified water ratio! Includes 10 feet of 3/8" feedwater tube (blue) and permeate tube (white), and 10 feet of 1/4" concentrate tubing (yellow). With 98.5% rejection, The Gapper is an excellent choice to purify your water before its delivered to a deionization stage.

Come see The Gapper here: http://www.buckeyehydro.com/the-gapper-light-commercial-ro-system/

jason2459
01/29/2017, 08:35 AM
This thing looks awesome.

jason2459
01/29/2017, 08:45 AM
Quick question, I currently have 1/4" feed tubing to my rodi system and get about 76psi.

Would I be good using the same feed line and get a step up adapter to 3/8" for the gapper?

Buckeye Hydro
01/29/2017, 10:05 AM
Nope - you'd switch to a 3/8" feed line.

jason2459
01/29/2017, 06:53 PM
Ok, I'll have to get that into my copper piping. The piping in that area is larger then 1/2". I notice you don't suggest self piercing saddle valves which is of course the easiest and what I'm using for the 1/4" in line now and see there's 3/8" ones too.

Another question on the membrane. I assume this is the one included
http://www.buckeyehydro.com/axeon-hf5-2521-ro-membrane-400-gpd/

Do those also have around the same life span as other membranes sold in typical rodi units. I change mine out every 3 years.

I also see one with 99% rejection. Could that one be used in the Gapper as well?
http://www.buckeyehydro.com/axeon-hf1-2521-ro-membrane-400-gpd/

Buckeye Hydro
01/30/2017, 02:31 AM
The membrane that comes in the unit by default is spec'ed at 100 psi with 99% rejection. The life span of the membrane will be like what you are used to.

Do you have a hose bib nearby? We have a 3/8" hose bib adapter that would work well. A self piercing saddle is a not-so-good choice for feeding a "regular" RODI - and would be entirely inadequate to feed The Gapper - it wouldn't work.

Our 3/8" EZ Tap would work well too http://www.buckeyehydro.com/feedwater-fittings/

The best solution is always to sweat in a tee and take that to a quarter throw shut off valve, and end that in a 3/8" compression.

Russ

jason2459
01/30/2017, 09:42 AM
Thanks, I'll be T'ing off the 3/4" copper that's there.


So, which membrane do you have listed will I end up needing to buy for replacements for the Gapper?

One more question as I'm looking at the specs and how I use my RODI. I don't see an ASO included? Is that what the feed water solenoid would be for?

I currently turn the feed water on to my RODI unit manually to fill up a 65 gallon brute I use for a freshwater reservoir. At the top if a float valve that came with an ASO kit that will shutdown my RODI unit. I will then manually turn off the water supply to the RODI unit.

What would be needed to do the same thing with the gapper?

Buckeye Hydro
01/30/2017, 11:33 AM
Thanks, I'll be T'ing off the 3/4" copper that's there.


So, which membrane do you have listed will I end up needing to buy for replacements for the Gapper?

One more question as I'm looking at the specs and how I use my RODI. I don't see an ASO included? Is that what the feed water solenoid would be for?

I currently turn the feed water on to my RODI unit manually to fill up a 65 gallon brute I use for a freshwater reservoir. At the top if a float valve that came with an ASO kit that will shutdown my RODI unit. I will then manually turn off the water supply to the RODI unit.

What would be needed to do the same thing with the gapper?

Rather than a hydraulic ASOV, it has a pressure switch for the permeate tube, and a solenoid valve on the feedwater line.

When your float valve closes, the pump would turn off and water flow to the unit would stop. If at that point you could also just unplug the transformer if you wanted to. W/o power, the feedwater solenoid will remain closed.

Russ

jason2459
01/30/2017, 11:41 AM
Rather than a hydraulic ASOV, it has a pressure switch for the permeate tube, and a solenoid valve on the feedwater line.

When your float valve closes, the pump would turn off and water flow to the unit would stop. If at that point you could also just unplug the transformer if you wanted to. W/o power, the feedwater solenoid will remain closed.

Russ

Sounds perfect. Thanks for all the information.

Should I upgrade then the 1/4" line to the 65g brute to 3/8's then as well?

I'm still curious which membrane is the replacement for the gapper.

Buckeye Hydro
01/30/2017, 11:43 AM
Sounds perfect. Thanks for all the information.

Should I upgrade then the 1/4" line to the 65g brute to 3/8's then as well?

I'm still curious which membrane is the replacement for the gapper.

Yes - permeate tube is 3/8". 3/8" float valves are here: http://www.buckeyehydro.com/float-valves-1/

jason2459
01/30/2017, 11:54 AM
Yes - permeate tube is 3/8". 3/8" float valves are here: http://www.buckeyehydro.com/float-valves-1/

Yep, already have it in my cart. I'm going to upgrade my DI housings, feed line, and permeate line to the brute first.


I just picked up a 3/4" T that goes to 1/2" out one side. A 1/2" 1/4" turn valve to go into 1/4" OD pex and a 3/8" ID valve that goes on that. That I will get installed in the next few weeks.

Then I'll order what I have in my cart which so far is 20" x 2.5" housings, brackets, screws, 3/4" to 1/2" bushing, 1/2" to 3/8" quick connects, safety clips, housing wrench (will end up with 2 which is good), bunch of 3/8" tubing, 20" x 2.5" refillable cartridges, 3/8" float valve, a few 3/8" to 1/4" unions to be used for now, and a few 3/8" micro valves. Then what ever else I might think I need till then.

Then once I have that all in place in the next several weeks I'll look at ordering the Gapper.


and thanks for the PM!

Buckeye Hydro
01/30/2017, 12:07 PM
I just picked up a 3/4" T that goes to 1/2" out one side. A 1/2" 1/4" turn valve to go into 1/4" OD pex and a 3/8" ID valve that goes on that. That I will get installed in the next few weeks.

You don't want to reduce to 1/4" pex and then adapt back to 3/8". You want 3/8' or larger all the way to The Gapper.

jason2459
01/30/2017, 12:11 PM
You don't want to reduce to 1/4" pex and then adapt back to 3/8". You want 3/8' or larger all the way to The Gapper.

That's only for now while I get the feed line to the RO/DI unit I have now, then the RO/DI unit to the new 3/8" DI stages which will then go 3/8" to the Brute with a 3/8" float valve.

Once I get the gapper in then I'll remove those 3/8" to 1/4" unions and will be 3/8" all the way through.

I'm basically staging it. Getting the feed line done when I can as I have all the parts for it as of now. Then I'll be ordering new DI housings but will hook it up to my current 1/4" RO system.

Then will order the Gapper shortly after that and swap RO systems and will at that point be 3/8" all the way through.

Buckeye Hydro
01/30/2017, 12:13 PM
Roger.

jason2459
01/30/2017, 09:00 PM
Presetup. Will probably get it done tomorrow evening. I don't like to do plumbing when stores aren't open. [emoji4]


3/4" slip and a 3/4" T to 1/2". That then goes to an angle quarter turn 3/8"OD 1/4"ID valve.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170131/210618ca07348d96dc182d3842f03814.jpg

Then there's about 8' run of 3/8"OD 1/4"ID pex over to where the RO unit is at which ends in a 3/8" quarter turn valve and for now goes to 3/8" to 1/4" union which will go to my current RODI until I get the Gapper.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170131/e7782412840cafb81b9f5bf838f5b8c2.jpg


Yes, I'm taking over this thread lol. And looking for any suggestions or things I might miss or need. Oh, like a new triple inline TDS meter. I don't think I saw that listed.


At least until I have all the parts, pieces, and system going and I think this thing will deserve its own thread in the general discussion areas on this and another reefing forum to reef. [emoji1]

jason2459
01/31/2017, 12:49 PM
I was looking for a 3/8 3 way diverter valve to put between the prefilters and before the DI stage so I can flush prefilters when replaced and quick runs to remove TDS creep entering the DI stage.

I only see 1/4" do you not carry the 3/8" at all or is it not recommended with the commercial type units?

Buckeye Hydro
01/31/2017, 01:31 PM
This would be my solution:
3/8" tee http://www.buckeyehydro.com/tee-quick-connect/
or
3/8" wye http://www.buckeyehydro.com/wye/

some 3/8" tube as needed, ending in a 3/8" micro ball valve: http://www.buckeyehydro.com/micro-ball-valves/

Russ

jason2459
01/31/2017, 01:37 PM
This would be my solution:
3/8" tee http://www.buckeyehydro.com/tee-quick-connect/
or
3/8" wye http://www.buckeyehydro.com/wye/

some 3/8" tube as needed, ending in a 3/8" micro ball valve: http://www.buckeyehydro.com/micro-ball-valves/

Russ

Thanks. I use a T now as well and thought about going with the diverter 3 way valve this time. But this works.

jason2459
01/31/2017, 05:32 PM
Well, that was easy. And this is post water softener.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170201/5dc923ac93dc62bf964f2f64025aecf9.jpg


I also contacted my water company which I pretty much do every year to make sure they aren't using chloramines and if they have any plans to use it. Each year so far the response has been chlorine only and not at this time in regards to chloramine. Which always leaves it open to be used in the future.

jason2459
01/31/2017, 05:55 PM
OMG

So, not like you needed any proof on saddle valves not being the best option or anything but...

the saddle valve I was using I was getting about 76psi.

I just hooked up my rodi system up to the new 3/8" run and well

Getting about 92psi now
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170201/b3eb97f3d624e169227ff2f8132fe41b.jpg

Buckeye Hydro
02/01/2017, 03:02 AM
Wow - all that much more pressure for changing out that feedwater fitting. Nice!

jason2459
02/01/2017, 06:07 AM
I was expecting a little increase and thought I had pretty good pressure already being in the mid 70's and I'm still stepping down and using the 1/4" line and all. The saddle valve reduced the pressure close to 20psi.

Buckeye Hydro
02/01/2017, 06:19 AM
Often the static pressure (pressure when the RO is not running) looks fine, but once the RO kicks on you'll see a big difference in the dynamic pressure. The little pierced hole restricts flow and causes a reduced dynamic pressure.

jason2459
02/01/2017, 07:03 AM
Yeah, that picture is with the system running water through it.

I switched back to the saddle valve and this is the pressure coming from it running through the rodi system.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170201/de716dcc52ccf4445aa9759769ebea95.jpg

Buckeye Hydro
02/01/2017, 07:06 AM
Overtime the pierce hole will shrink or close due to scale buildup around the opening. All in all those self piercing saddles are just a bad choice.

jason2459
02/01/2017, 09:40 AM
Yep, I can see that now.

Fyi
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2622123

jason2459
02/03/2017, 09:34 AM
1st big order complete on my path to getting ready for The Gapper! I don't think I've ever been this excited about an RODI system since I first got one in 2009. lol

jason2459
02/09/2017, 11:29 PM
Thanks for double checking that shipping!!

Got it all in today. I just have left to run a 3/8's" run to the new 3/8" float valve in my RODI container.

Dual DI stage filling with water and no leaks.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170210/46cd4b41837575650e1765d7617e9067.jpg

jason2459
02/14/2017, 10:02 PM
Last leg to my rodi reservoir upgraded to 3/8" tubing and float valve. Ready for the Gapper which has been shipped!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170215/f9a4c626d3506f00eb98bb27e61518a0.jpg

Buckeye Hydro
02/15/2017, 05:31 AM
looking good!

jason2459
02/16/2017, 07:38 PM
Going to work on this later.

Nice packaging
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170217/3bc6ffe678055217eab871c13972e312.jpg

jason2459
02/16/2017, 10:20 PM
Note to self, have a bucket ready when removing the ro housing end cap... lol

jason2459
02/16/2017, 10:49 PM
And now running for 60 minutes after rinsing all the other stages out.

All setup
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170217/5b2d410d6070d86586f03320e95dfc64.jpg

I'm hoping I have this right and seems to work. As soon as I closed a valve the entire system stops. Pretty awesome
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170217/225d9aaad585c1b5ed4568f4dddb4ad6.jpg


I did make one modification which will be for when I change out a prefilter and need to rinse it out with out it going to the RO stage. Or drain things out better... (edit: thinking about it now I need to move that post booster pump just before the membrane)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170217/20045a0e8d6fdf20546628bc8711202d.jpg

Buckeye Hydro
02/17/2017, 01:35 AM
Nice mod! I'd not move that - leave it just like you have it!

And yes - you have that pressure switch in the correct location.

jason2459
02/17/2017, 06:02 AM
Awesome, thanks. So far I see only one small drip which is the pressure gauge. I'll have to redo it later.

jason2459
02/17/2017, 12:43 PM
Again thanks for putting up with me cluttering this thread and answering my questions. :fun2:


I've moved over and started this thread (on that other reef site 2 reef on too :wildone:)
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=24964950#post24964950