QT tank startup help

[philly_rfa]

Hoping someone can provide some direction... First time QT setup frustration...

I am starting up a 20G QT, that will be permanently running and ready for new inhabitants or hospital use.

Here is the setup:

20G tank
Sponge filter
HOB filter (filter floss, no carbon) * got this with tank, so using it, even though i have sponge filter already
Eheim heater
Bare bottom
PVC pipe for shelter
Seachem Ammonia Alert


Here is where my confusion hits... I filled the tank about 10g fresh salt water, and 10g water from DT during water change. I used seeded sponge filter (1 month in sump) and seeded filter floss (1 week in sump). Initially, I had zero ammonia (tested by Ammonia Alert, API kit, and seachem full kit). I added some food to feed the bacteria (a pinch of pellets twice a week). Since then (about 2 weeks), I am getting the green warning on the Ammonia Alert (~ .05) and API and Seachem kits show about the same, maybe slightly higher approaching 0.1. I get zero on nitrites and nitrates with both API and Seachem kits. When I change some water, the ammonia levels go down, then creep back up (maybe from feeding bacteria). But never get to alarm level.

So questions are:
What can I do to get it down and stay at 0.0 ammonia?
Is the bacteria not sufficient?
Can I assume that it is cycled, since nitrites and nitrates are at zero? I thought using seeding sponges/filter floss would make it instantly cycled, but maybe I am reading wrong about that.

Until I work this out, I am worried to actually use it and add any fish, as the ammonia will surely rise into dangerous level, I would assume. Appreciate any feedback.

[scooter31707]

FYI-- API Ammonia test kit is known for giving a false reading of 0.25ppm, so don't over react when you test and see this. I would keep some Prime on-hand also. You may be experiencing a mini-cycle.

[philly_rfa]

FYI-- API Ammonia test kit is known for giving a false reading of 0.25ppm, so don't over react when you test and see this. I would keep some Prime on-hand also. You may be experiencing a mini-cycle.

Good to know about the API.. .but i did also use my seachem ammonia kit, the 30 minute develop shows about 0.1ppm.
On the mini-cycle... i thought about that, but wouldn't nitrites be going up and eventually nitrates?

and I'll pick up some prime... :)

[Sgt Jonny Cat]

I found this video on youtube. Pretty good one on setting up a QT.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bRTXkHECIc

[Georb]

Got some cheato and a couple of live rocks for goby and invertebrates. Quick check PH and I trade water from main tank to QT tank during 1 gallon water change. Took the powerhead out for cleaning.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170301/537e751ddec12f7e2eedd21b00c70dc5.jpg

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[scooter31707]

Good to know about the API.. .but i did also use my seachem ammonia kit, the 30 minute develop shows about 0.1ppm.
On the mini-cycle... i thought about that, but wouldn't nitrites be going up and eventually nitrates?

and I'll pick up some prime... :)

Are you testing nirites and nirates each time you test the ammonia? At 0.1ppm, you really can question if that kit is accurate. Your ammonia possible very well could be at 0.

[philly_rfa]

Are you testing nirites and nirates each time you test the ammonia? At 0.1ppm, you really can question if that kit is accurate. Your ammonia possible very well could be at 0.

yeah, testing at same time. I am starting to think it is just within margin of error... i just don't want to jump the gun and add in a pricey fish for observation, then have a mess on my hands when i cant control the ammonia. But, i guess there is no way to tell other than to give it a go at this point...

[philly_rfa]

One thing i am curiuos about. the Seachem Ammonia Alert badge... if i read it with tank lights on, it appears yellow (it is lit from behind). However, when tank lights are off and only have ambient lighting, it appears to be more green.

Any thoughts on which reading is likely to be more accurate?