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AquaFrenzy
04/13/2017, 07:12 PM
I am planning on building a stand for my 125g tank, I prefer to not have a bunch of braces in the middle if any at all, maybe just one to block any light from the doors but easily removable if needed. Any changes I should make to this design I found online? tank is 72" long, was thinking that the upper frame be either 2x6 or 2x8, your thoughts? thanks!

Also should I pocket drill instead of using the sticks? (green)

Knighthawk
04/13/2017, 07:44 PM
You could add 2 more blue pieces across the top but as far as center braces go maybe just add one in the back and call it a day. That stand is plenty strong enough


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AquaFrenzy
04/13/2017, 07:48 PM
You could add 2 more blue pieces across the top but as far as center braces go maybe just add one in the back and call it a day. That stand is plenty strong enough


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yea I agree, was also thinking about putting plywood down on top as well

benbarfield
04/13/2017, 08:06 PM
You should take a look at my build. I am working with the same size tank as you. I built a frame based on the plans I found online on this forum and they look very similar to yours. A friend of mine has been building tanks for years and advised me to go another route than the frame I built. I trust his input as he has a 125 gallon show tank at his house with it attached to nearly 300 gallons of water within multiple tanks to give as large a volume of distribution as possible. I switched to cement blocks with a wood top of 2x6s and 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood. Bottom plywood nailed to the 2x6 frame and the top piece glued to the bottom plywood to ensure no nails or seams on or under the tank. Just a thought...

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2621740

benbarfield
04/13/2017, 08:14 PM
Sorry, but to answer your question that frame should hold the weight just fine. The issue will be leveling and ensuring the frame is completely level because even a small slant can end up in a serious pressure shift on your tank and cause crack or shatter to your tank. Also make sure your cross braces don't end up directly under your plumbing access points to the tank above. (I made that mistake already)

AquaFrenzy
04/13/2017, 08:29 PM
Sorry, but to answer your question that frame should hold the weight just fine. The issue will be leveling and ensuring the frame is completely level because even a small slant can end up in a serious pressure shift on your tank and cause crack or shatter to your tank. Also make sure your cross braces don't end up directly under your plumbing access points to the tank above. (I made that mistake already)


nice build! I went the wood route mainly because it will blend in nicely with the ruff cut cedar walls in the living room. I will definitely be putting in the extra time needed to ensure all boards are same width with table saw etc as needed

Lsufan
04/13/2017, 09:45 PM
If u don't mind a center support then I would frame it with a 2 by 6 top & pocket drill the center brace so u can remove it to get the sump in & out if u need to. It would probably be fine without a center brace but I would rather be safe then sorry. U can also get away without having a brace in the center if u add one where your opening for your doors start. If u have a 72" stand but the door opening is only 48", then add a brace on each side of the door opening & u would only have a 48" span without a brace which would be fine.

If u don't want any type center brace then I would use the 2 by 8. How tall are u building the stand? Keep in mind that with a 2"by 6" & especially a 2"by 8" top frame it will take up quite a bit of headroom, so a taller stand helps a lot when u are trying to do something under the stand.

AquaFrenzy
04/14/2017, 03:47 PM
If u don't mind a center support then I would frame it with a 2 by 6 top & pocket drill the center brace so u can remove it to get the sump in & out if u need to. It would probably be fine without a center brace but I would rather be safe then sorry. U can also get away without having a brace in the center if u add one where your opening for your doors start. If u have a 72" stand but the door opening is only 48", then add a brace on each side of the door opening & u would only have a 48" span without a brace which would be fine.

If u don't want any type center brace then I would use the 2 by 8. How tall are u building the stand? Keep in mind that with a 2"by 6" & especially a 2"by 8" top frame it will take up quite a bit of headroom, so a taller stand helps a lot when u are trying to do something under the stand.


I'm thinking i want the stand about 3' - 3.5' high, I guess I don't mind the mid support if I can remove it, I like the idea about pocket drilling at least that part

Ron Reefman
04/15/2017, 06:00 AM
I built an 11' stand that carried a 180g tank and a 75g hex tank using that design. I had 1 center brace in the front. I used two 2x6 boards that were glued and screwed together across the top front. I never had any issues with it during the 6 years it was in use.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/RonReefman/P6060062_zpsbcfcac6d.jpg (http://s395.photobucket.com/user/RonReefman/media/P6060062_zpsbcfcac6d.jpg.html)