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WLachnit
04/26/2017, 02:02 PM
I recently re-built my 300g, mostly from scratch. I would like to share what changes I made and why I made them. (I have posted some of my progress on our local club website, but thought that by sharing with a broader group, I may be able to gain additional learnings). My original tank build was finished in 2008 and had been running continuously since that time, albeit only partially successful towards the end. The result of that build is shown here in a very dead thread. Thread is only worth going to if you are interested in woodworking and how I built the cabinetry.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=13823164&highlight=cabinetry#post13823164
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170426/3feebe78440c48d3d1e8b5de8a82c66e.jpg

I learned a lot from that build and I realized that as the hobby evolved as well as my own knowledge/experience, that a lot of improvements could be made. I had purchased that tank new. It was an acrylic TruVue 96 x 24w x 30h. The dual corner overflows were undersized with only one 1” Durso standpipe in each overflow. I considered turning it into a Herbie with one corner being main overflow and the other being the trickle. But, that would not work well since each one would be in a different overflow. The other challenge I had was that I did not have enough lineal overflow. There were also a lot of dead spots which over the years built up a lot of detritus. I had the LR setup in a way that made it tough to get good flow everywhere. I had built a foam rock wall along the back which I believe contributed to phosphate buildup. Although admittedly, I did neglect it for a couple of years which I'm sure gave the LR plenty of time to accumulate PO4. Anyway, I finally got to the point that I needed to tear it down and re-build it.

WLachnit
04/26/2017, 02:09 PM
So, I started by pulling LR out of the tank (in batches) to treat it with LaCl3 to get all of the phosphates out. And as with a lot of things in life, what started as a smaller project fully bloomed into a complete re-build. I then decided to replace acrylic tank, which by now had a good share of scratches. This gave me an opportunity to start from scratch so to speak and have a Starfire glass tank built to replace it. I will try to capture all of the changes I made or will make based on my experience with the past setup.

I wanted glass because I was so tired of not being able to clean the front of the tank without risking scratches. After almost 10y of cleaning it, I do have surface scratching which then makes it harder to keep the surface clean. I did consider emptying and polishing the tank, and even though I have all the tools to do that myself, there were still other things….such as the slight bowing of the front panel since the tank is only ½” think, the undersized overflows, the small openings at the top, and finally knowing that it would just get scratched up again.

So, I went out and got a few quotes for a 3 sided starfire tank with the same dimensions. I ended up going with Trent at CDA. It is ½” front/side panels with ¾” bottom, ¾” eurobracing, and reinforced seams. We also at the last minute decided to install a top metal brace to make it even stronger (given that there is a canopy over it, the brace would not be seen.

I had it drilled for dual 20” Synergy ghost overflows and four returns because I wanted a lot of lineal overflow. At the time, the C2C overflows that I saw had external boxes that took up too much room behind the tank. In hindsight, I could have built one myself out of acrylic to fit my dimensions.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170426/c8681fe2ae8996d74f43ac93c3531d05.jpg

This angle shows where the four holes were drilled for the returns in addition to the 1 1/2" bulkheads holes for the ghost overflows. The holes for the returns were sized for 3/4" bulkheads.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170426/8aadbb7917019dbdfee6b571cf11f85d.jpg

WLachnit
05/16/2017, 01:14 PM
This is a summary of the changes I made.

BEFORE AFTER
1. Tank:
Before: TruVue Acrylic
After: *CDA Starfire

2. Overflows:
Before: Dual Internal w/ 1" Durso
After: *Dual 20" GhostSynergy w/ BeanAnimal

3. Returns:
Before: Two 3/4"
After: *Four 3/4"

4. Return Pump:
Before: Reeflo Dart
After: *Vectra L1 and DC Current 1500

5. Flow:
Before: 2 MP 40s, two MJ1200
After: *Three MP40s, Two Gyre XF150s

6. Lighting:
Before: 3 250w MH + 2 T5
After: *6 Kessil 360we + 2 T5

7. Alk control:
Before: Manual dosing
After: *Neptune DOS & 2 Part

8. PO4 control:
Before: GFO, macroalgae
After: *GFO, macroalgae

9. NO3 control:
Beofre: DSB
After: *MarinePure Ceramic blocks, BioPellet Reactor

10. Aquascaping:
Before: Foam wall and stacked LR
After: *Glued and doweled LR. More open space

11. Skimmer:
Before: Internal ASM 250
After: *Recirculating Reeflo 250EXT

Darthv247
05/16/2017, 02:22 PM
awesome upgrade. the new set up will be much easier and efficient to maintain. just remeber glass scratches too ;)

WLachnit
05/17/2017, 11:38 PM
awesome upgrade. the new set up will be much easier and efficient to maintain. just remeber glass scratches too ;)



Thanks. Have just learned that about glass and realize that I will still need to be careful.

WLachnit
05/19/2017, 10:35 AM
I decided that my first task was to get rid of PO4 buildup in the system. I setup a 2 reactor system so that I could drip LaCl3 (PhosFree) using an IV bag through the reactors and catch the precipitate.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170519/cb7e146238b7a4b9cc2e555fec92eb00.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170519/72625a7197ac385e53a98cbea9c3e31e.jpg

The amount of LaPO4 precipitate was staggering. The white gunk sitting on top of GAC was presumably LaPO4. I would switch this out every week.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170519/b0cd946573438d49987490451a059516.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170519/68c9db253a3fc61a67b773bd1d74e4ba.jpg

WLachnit
05/19/2017, 10:39 AM
At the same time I removed about 1/3 of the LR and put it in a bin with a powerhead and LaCl3. I would swap the water out every ~10d and measured the PO4 with a Hanna checker. I was able to get it down to ~0.1 – 0.2 ppm in about 6 weeks. Since I had a light to medium load in my DT, I figured that taking out 1/3 of the LR was a safe bet. To be sure. Doing this also gave me an opportunity to finally get rid of aptasias and majanos.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170519/2f8a7cbfd2f9f050d8d03aca3cb49907.jpg

I also added a ceramic Marinepure block to the DT sump just to make sure my nitrification/denitrification stayed in check.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170519/c5612e39432d317667252e5d305ff552.jpg

maddmaxx
05/20/2017, 05:23 PM
rebuilding sucks but also fun as hell right lol... looks like a solid reboot..

i am curious why you took out a 3rd tho?? especially if your trying to lower leaching phosphate, cause the other 2/3s will still be leaching....

WLachnit
05/21/2017, 06:56 PM
Double post

WLachnit
05/21/2017, 06:59 PM
rebuilding sucks but also fun as hell right lol... looks like a solid reboot..

i am curious why you took out a 3rd tho?? especially if your trying to lower leaching phosphate, cause the other 2/3s will still be leaching....


Yes, once I made the commitment to go all in with the re-boot, it made a lot of things easier, I mentally justified all of the increased expenses, d then it was fun indeed.

I was going to do half the LR at a time, but then I got concerned there wouldn't be enough LR for my fish load. Then I realized I could add the Marine Pure block which helped a lot. So, once the the first third was finished, I pulled out the second third but didn't put the first third back in. With the Marine Pure block it was fine. If I were to do it over again, I would pull out half at a time, much easier logistically.

WLachnit
05/21/2017, 07:09 PM
Once I had the LR treated and ready to go, I started the aquascaping phase on a table in the garage. I used acrylic rods, epoxy putty and super glue. I did not use any hydraulic cement. In hindsight it would have made it much easier.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170522/1b79d6e370c6fecd98035423b85b3714.jpg
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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170522/bab94fe6c236c6979a99d77fc703f976.jpg

Once I had most of the rockscaping done, I kept the rock cured in a bunch of brute cans.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170522/295acb7b03b148d4b3447c4cbe5f5564.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170522/9f1c7d8f8fe1d337196c05d170f4b6b5.jpg

vanburen
05/21/2017, 07:17 PM
Can't wait to see more!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

WLachnit
05/24/2017, 01:18 PM
I also decided to rebuild my original sump.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170524/906ff876117e7135a10c7f0dd8e36d55.jpg

I wanted to increase my overall volume from ~80g to 90-100g. I wanted to be able to access my skimmer more easily. I had built it such the return section in the back was really narrow with ineffective baffles and it was loud as the water went from the skimmer section to the return section. So I cut it up and salvaged as much of the acrylic as I could.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170524/c171a7d0ccac9f256fcb730197baeb82.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170524/a16c1f779116d40cd77e5b2af6cc6bfb.jpg

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170524/10cd2d2a74a14646b744439688723143.jpg

It was 54" instead of 48", only 18" high for easy access and much improved baffles.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170524/d1268f593ad922107a8d3b638d51cf17.jpg

WLachnit
05/24/2017, 01:21 PM
I installed the sump and it functioned really well. BUT because a month or so later (while I was still waiting for my new tank to arrive), I made a decision to have CDA build me a steel stand. Which meant that I most likely needed to build the sump yet again to accommodate the dimensions of the new stand. A 54" sump would not be able to slide in under the stand because of the middle leg of the stand. This also meant that I had to dismantle my cabinetry and remove the wooden stand I had built years back.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170524/d3857915606c49df721b652cd9dbc892.jpg

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WLachnit
05/30/2017, 02:24 PM
I then took down my 300 DTand set it up temporarily on the floor with it partially filled to keep all of my fish alive. I had a number of Tangs that I have had for these 11 years so it was important that they make the transition.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170530/545b14493326010e3eb9f03f45a5388b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170530/a3e9d11c3c88be3599049e265365db7a.jpg

I had my coral frag tanks going, but I also picked up an old 135g tank off of Craigslist to maintain all of my coral during this transition. Now I had 3 large setups on both sides of the family room floor. ...and a very supportive wife!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170530/8c7cea95a7bffa403b632a68e6640538.jpg

I then gutted the cabinetry and stand.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170530/75d2b7223fd89f33fe20d7313501b0f1.jpg

I picked up the stand and moved it into position, leveled it and attached a 3/4" ply bottom.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170530/8bb82d4492d33778b1b9f0d5346bef6c.jpg
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I was finally ready to take delivery of the tank!

WLachnit
06/01/2017, 12:01 PM
Next came move in day. There were 8 of us and we needed everybody.

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WLachnit
06/01/2017, 12:02 PM
Once we got it to the front door, we had to carry it because we didn't want to risk denting the floors with the cart wheels.
This was one heavy tank!

https://vimeo.com/213783170

https://vimeo.com/213783214

https://vimeo.com/213786221

WLachnit
06/08/2017, 11:42 AM
I only used one of the external Synergy Reef overflow boxes because it is going to be a lot easier managing one BeanAnimal rather than two. So, the right internal box is plumbed to drain into the left external box. I had to drill a hole in the external box to fit another bulkhead to make that happen. While it took some effort to not have the bulkheads on the right internal box not leak (since it did not have an external box), having just the one external box is making life easier. So far, I have learned that with these Synergy ghost overflows, that the water needs to be pretty high in the external box, otherwise you hear the water flow loudly as it goes from the internal box to the external box. And I really like having the larger amount of lineal overflow that the two boxes provide.

WLachnit
06/08/2017, 11:45 AM
Getting the 2 sumps in place. Because I decided that I wanted a little more overall volume, I went back to a slightly taller sump. Not quite as ideal from a maintenance perspective, but now I will have a large refugium.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170420/2698dd24efc1b090ddf0933acb1f5bb5.jpg

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Drilling for the two bulkheads to attach the two sumps together.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170420/e29b09fcc0e6be3c8893ce3f15e09a37.jpg

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WLachnit
06/09/2017, 06:27 PM
On a spur of the moment, I decided to use some eggcrate that I had lying around to organize all my cords, power bricks (13+), controllers, and Apex. I think it should work pretty well…certainly much better than how I had it organized before. Also using a couple of DJ8 power strips for my items that don’t need to be plugged directly into the Apex EB8.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170610/aebc5181b03a3b4004b9c57edd089401.jpg

WLachnit
06/13/2017, 11:46 AM
Since the tank sits at 42", I had to setup a scaffold between 2 ladders. This made it a lot easier to scape compared to when I first set the system many years ago. However, I now realize that with the leveling feet and 1" ply base, the tank sits about 4" higher than I wanted. Which is disappointing since all my SPS will be at top and hard to see from an above angle to see all of the colors.

I forgot to take pics while I was scaping, but I should point out that even with all the pre-work I did on aquascaping, some of it didn’t stay together and I forgot how some of it went together. So, It doesn’t look quite like what I had anticipated. I had tried to follow the rule of thirds, the golden rectangle, etc., when designing the scape,. But, now that it is altogether in the DT, I see that I broke a lot of these rules.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170425/da23fdc058191f801f40e4fe1b145057.jpg

WLachnit
06/13/2017, 11:47 AM
Here is a FTS from a few months ago. I did lose a couple of colonies during this process....my CITR Red Dragon and a big red Monti Digi. I think when I moved them to my temporary holding tank for a couple of weeks, my lighting was not dialed in, which then also impacted my Alk. So, they both RTNd.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170425/ae26ac1b126c07928f7b81e6615647c4.jpg

fishdip22
06/13/2017, 12:12 PM
Why did you not keep the same size fuge and just drop it in before you put the tank on and or put the stand down over it?

WLachnit
06/13/2017, 01:09 PM
Why did you not keep the same size fuge and just drop it in before you put the tank on and or put the stand down over it?

Good question. That was my original plan, but the sump was 3/4" too wide from front to back. :headwally:

fishdip22
06/13/2017, 01:48 PM
Good question. That was my original plan, but the sump was 3/4" too wide from front to back. :headwally:

Dam that really sucks :headwalls:

WLachnit
06/19/2017, 11:35 PM
Well....our neighborhood lost power for 3 hours at 5p. Since we really never lose power in our hood, I don't have any sort of backups. Not knowing how long we were going to be out of power, I plugged in a cigarette lighter inverter into our car and ran a long extension cord into the house which gave me about 120w. From there, I plugged a couple of my MP40s into it and moved them up high towards the surface to agitate the water. All was fine when power was restored a few hours later. But, it taught me a lesson that I should probably setup battery backups for MP40s. Glad I was home when it happened.

anbosu
06/21/2017, 08:20 AM
How is the tank looking now that you have it all back together?

WLachnit
06/22/2017, 08:37 AM
How is the tank looking now that you have it all back together?

Fantastic....for several reasons right off the top of my head.
1) The external overflow boxes and how I arranged my aquascape, allow me to get much better flow.
2) Running a BeanAnimal give the tank much better water turnover.
3) The glass seems much easier to keep clean than the acrylic did.
4) The eurobrace openings are much larger than than the acrylic tank openings. Makes it so much easier for maintenance.

I wish I had switched out the tank sooner.

reefzone123
06/25/2017, 08:03 PM
organization and attention to detail is flawless. beautiful setup.

WLachnit
06/26/2017, 02:44 PM
Thanks. Having all the experience from the previous build allowed me to not repeat all of the pitfalls (hopefully). Plus, a lot has happened in the last 10 years...not just with technology but even our better understanding of water chemistry, such as phosphates, nitrates, etc. I never bothered with Phosphate measuring or even with Magnesium.

WLachnit
06/29/2017, 12:08 PM
While I used to QT my fish somewhat randomly and not diligently, I am now very strict with QTing anything wet. All fish go through several weeks of observation, treated with Prazi, and then TTM.

WLachnit
06/29/2017, 12:13 PM
I recently added a Lineatus Wrasse (C. lineatus), Blue Sided Wrasse (C. cyanopleura), and a Timor Wrasse (H. timorensis) that were in QT.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170515/35a6b319ffd3c107406dbda5016d6849.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170515/5e1ca3a24a916818ef8aedcb10f41d81.jpg

WLachnit
06/29/2017, 12:16 PM
And a Rhomboid that got beat up a bit in my observation tank before I put him in my QT and TTM. Doing well and eating everything. Also, recently added to my DT.

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WLachnit
06/29/2017, 12:21 PM
And I HAD a pair of orange spotted gobies in quarantine and was just a few days away from adding to my DT when I found one on the floor. Bummer. I forgot to put the lid on the night before after feeding them. Now I just have the one. Not nearly as interesting as having a pair. Not sure how easy it is to get one to pair up?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170509/c1ff27ececee66c79feaf48855d2384e.jpg

WLachnit
07/09/2017, 11:23 AM
As part of my rebuild, I had plumbed a line out to my "fish closet" out in the garage which is about 12-15 ft away. That is where I've had my mixing station. The intent was to have my reactors setup out there rather than under the tank to minimize water splashing in the house and make it easier to swap out media. Anyway, I run a biopellet reactor which requires a lot of flow to keep the pellets tumbling. But, I couldn't get enough flow to make them tumble. Sure, enough, I have not been able to get my NO3 below 25ppm. My GFO reactor requires a lot less flow and PO4 have been staying below 0.04ppm. So, I completely under estimated how much friction loss I was going to have pumping water from one of my return pumps (Vectra L1) out to the closet. I ran 1" PVC... It would have helped if I had run 1 1/4" or even 1 1/2"....ah well.

So, I replumbed my biopellet reactor so that I could run it under the DT in the sump. The output is now going directly to feed my skimmer. this should be a much better setup. And unlike other reactors such as GAC or GFO, I only need to change this out every 6 months or so.... I had considered changing to carbon dosing, but I have had good success running biopellets.

There is no room outside of the sump...so I had to place it in the sump.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170709/0d316a9278ba406bcf2d73d60d0a1cd5.jpg

My disorganized "fish closet"

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170709/2d8b23ada30c2cb80fbe88753749489c.jpg

IshFish
07/12/2017, 02:39 PM
Do you have your mixing station connected to the main display? If so, how did you plumb that to the display tank? What about ATO? How did you run that; assuming it's near the mixing station?

WLachnit
07/17/2017, 06:45 PM
I decided that my first task was to get rid of PO4 buildup in the system. I setup a 2 reactor system so that I could drip LaCl3 (PhosFree) using an IV bag through the reactors and catch the precipitate.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170519/cb7e146238b7a4b9cc2e555fec92eb00.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170519/72625a7197ac385e53a98cbea9c3e31e.jpg

The amount of LaPO4 precipitate was staggering. The white gunk sitting on top of GAC was presumably LaPO4. I would switch this out every week.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170519/b0cd946573438d49987490451a059516.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170519/68c9db253a3fc61a67b773bd1d74e4ba.jpg

Here are some details on the above.
For the reactor, I used about a 10% PhosFree solution (100ml PhosFree mixed in 1 L RODI Water) in the IV bag. I hung the IV bag on top of my tank and had that line teed into a small siphon line from the top of the tank which fed a TLF reactor that had no media in it. The key was for the IV to slowly drip into the line which you could tell by how cloudy the reactor got. That reactor then fed a 2nd reactor that was full of polyfiber. That reactor then emptied into the sump. I probably did that about 10 times. This definitely helped bring the PO4 down from 10ppm (Ouch) to 1-2 ppm.

In the bin, which was about 5-10g filled with LR, I poured about 100ml of PhosFree (make you don't use PhosFree+) into the bin and circulated with a small powerhead. I would repeat this 3x about every 7-10d. I did not use a skimmer. I would test periodically, until it got below 0.1-0.2ppm PO4.

WLachnit
07/17/2017, 06:55 PM
Do you have your mixing station connected to the main display? If so, how did you plumb that to the display tank? What about ATO? How did you run that; assuming it's near the mixing station?

Yes, I have a 20g RODI water reservoir that is connected to the sump under the DT with 1/4" tubing and a float valve. the 2nd bigger tank in the pic is a 50g salt water mixing tank. I have a 3/4" PVC line that goes to the sump under the DT. I use the same Eheim pump for mixing as I do for pumping it to my system. I have it setup so that it comes in over the sump so that there can be no backflow. In hindsight, I should have run 1" PVC instead of 3/4".

WLachnit
07/21/2017, 11:17 PM
During the rebuild I decided to use two DC return pumps instead of the Reeflo Dart I had used for 9+ years. I made this change mostly due to noise, since DC pumps tend to be quieter. I'm happy with the Ecotech Vectra L1 that I'm using. But, not happy with the DC Current pump. Seems like I all I have to do is bump the controller and it stops. I have a second one for my softie tank and it does the same thing. So, I have to figure that out.

WLachnit
07/24/2017, 12:10 PM
Some current tank shots with my iPhone....Need to borrow my daughter's DSLR....gotta learn how to use it first. [emoji50]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170715/a0f9dc3d3344885d2bf0a99431af1178.jpg

WLachnit
07/24/2017, 12:13 PM
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WLachnit
07/24/2017, 12:14 PM
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WLachnit
07/24/2017, 12:16 PM
FTS

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WLachnit
07/24/2017, 02:22 PM
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WLachnit
07/26/2017, 01:16 PM
Well....just found an aptasia in my DT. I quarantine everything so my bet is that it came in with my LR. I inspected every piece but I guess it wasn't good enough. Unfortunately, it's at the bottom and at the rear of the tank, somewhat inaccessible. So, now I have to figure out if a majano wand will work?

WLachnit
07/28/2017, 02:58 PM
I added a purple Tang that I got from a local reefer, which I put through quarantine and TTM to my display. Couldn't really get him to eat during TTM, but, he seems to be fine now.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170728/d74f35c3b75255023c5c45a029d1913d.jpg

My existing tangs are a large blonde Naso, Hippo, Yellow, and a small Kole Tang. Turns out that the one Tang that picked on the purple was the smallest of the bunch, the Kole! Completely unexpected. Anyway, I used a mirror for just a day and the picking stopped. The purple has settled right in with them.

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WLachnit
07/28/2017, 03:13 PM
I got these Striped fang blenny (M. grammistes) from DD. First online purchase of fish for me. They did well in QT and ate well. Added to the display. They stay more or less together so far....we'll see.

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WLachnit
08/01/2017, 09:53 PM
I now have a Leopard in QT. Doing So far I've had good success with TTM and leopards as well as Halicheorus by giving them a small area of sand that I change out when I TTM every 3 days.

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Female Meleagris Leopard

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WLachnit
08/04/2017, 04:59 PM
Bizarre...bizarre...bizarre!
I had a couple of Anthias and fairy wrasses in a 2nd set of QT that were going through TTM along with my leopard wrasse. The Anthias and Fairies died within 15 hrs after the 3rd transfer. :mad: I had become pretty confident with my QT process and have had nothing but success provided that they were eating beforehand and I hadn't done something stupid (which I have done in the past). The only thing that was different from the leopard QT was that I used a couple of small pieces of LR (which I replace for every transfer) for the Fairies to cocoon in every night. I suppose it's possible that there was something wonky with these two pieces of LR...that's the only thing I can think of. The batch of water was the same, the tanks were cleaned in the same manner...very perplexing. I usually think nothing of putting fish through TTM....this kinda changes that for me now...until I figure this out. :(

WLachnit
08/06/2017, 09:27 PM
Still working on how properly take pics with the DSLR...definilty an improvement over the iPhone.

Flame Wrasse. It was a male female pair, but now the female has now changed into a sub dominant male...hopefully he stays that way. You can see him in the back.
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An Elegance that I got from Buon about a year ago. Hasn't added another eye...but then again I don't target feed it.
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She's been with me through thick and thin for 9+ years. Has had those HLLE scars since I got her.
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WLachnit
08/08/2017, 02:40 PM
Gyre or chaos...that is the question.

I have my flow currently setup as a gyre as shown in the pic below. I'm using 3 MP40WQDs and 2 Maxspect Gyre 150s. As I went to replace one of my MP40s (cuz the motor got really loud...and I couldn't stand the noise), I set it up temporarily such that I caused less of a gyre and perhaps more chaotic flow. As a result, it seemed that there was much more movement in the tank. Anyway, I now wonder if I'm better off just setting up the powerheads without worrying if I have a gyre or not? Besides, the Maxspects are too noisy for me. So, I would like to pull those out.

WLachnit
08/11/2017, 11:29 PM
Well...still playing around a bit with the flow pattern. For now, I have decided to turn down my Maxspect Gyres to about 40% so that I don't hear them. Any higher than that and the sound becomes noticeable. I will try to rebuild the noisy MP40 dryside by replacing the bearings. This will then give me a total of 4 MP40s along with the 2 Gyres.

WLachnit
08/15/2017, 04:08 PM
On a completely different note, I have been ignoring the STN on my purple stag. I kept thinking that I need to deal with it and just kept putting it off. As I was staring at my tank before the lights came on with only the morning sun on my tank, ...yikes...it became really apparent how bad the STN had gotten. So, it was time to pull it out and save as much I could . I have had pretty good success stopping STN by sealing the necrotic edge with superglue, but the STN was really advanced here. So, I cut it up trying to save as much as possible. Should have a couple frags for the swap.


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WLachnit
08/15/2017, 04:10 PM
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WLachnit
08/20/2017, 07:09 PM
Just introduced my juvenile ocellaris clown. He is so small that I wasn't sure how my female was going to react. But it appears that all is good. I put him in a clear tube to introduce him near my nems and the female. Seems like it worked!

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WLachnit
08/20/2017, 07:17 PM
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WLachnit
08/26/2017, 12:29 AM
So...on the basis of a few recommendations, I went ahead and ordered a Mars 300w LED grow light from Amazon for my fuge.
https://www.amazon.com/MarsHydro-Spectrum-Certification-Hydroponic-Greenhouse/dp/B00XC3LBI2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503728639&sr=8-1&keywords=Mars+300w+grow+light

I thought I would go down this path and see how it goes...rather than pulling the trigger on something like the Kessil H380. Anyway, this thing is a beast! Didn't realize how big or bright it was going to be. It's actually pretty heavy as well...so have to figure out best way to hang it.

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WLachnit
08/31/2017, 09:57 AM
I still haven't had a chance to hook up the Mars light. But I started dosing low amounts of NoPox in the meantime and it looks like over the course of 9 days, NO3 has gone from 25-30 to 15. Of course I also tweaked my skimmer at the same time. If this stays the course, I will most likely take my biopellet reactor off line.

WLachnit
09/09/2017, 10:08 PM
Well...it's official.... my CITR Red Dragon RTNd completely in about 36h.....

It's now been another week with nitrates at 12.-15. So, not sure if that caused the change? We also had a heatwave and my DT ran about 2 deg higher for 5d.

From this
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To this
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I've now sworn off red dragons!

JVU
09/09/2017, 10:21 PM
Bummer about your Red Dragon. Are others doing ok?

NOPOX is amazingly effective at reducing NO3 and PO4!

WLachnit
09/10/2017, 10:47 PM
Bummer about your Red Dragon. Are others doing ok?

NOPOX is amazingly effective at reducing NO3 and PO4!
Well...I thought my Red Dragon was the only affected coral. But, as I now look more closely, there are several other SPS that have lost some color and one of my acro colonies have the tinest bit of brown algae at the tips which I can blow off with a baster. My nitrates are down to 8 ...so maybe it was too fast.

WLachnit
09/12/2017, 08:17 AM
Finally got around to installing my Mars fuge light. Holy cow...this thing is a beast!

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McPuff
09/12/2017, 08:27 AM
Finally got around to installing my Mars fuge light. Holy cow...this thing is a beast!

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Indeed! I've got one on my refugium and it certainly outperforms the sodium lamp I had on it beforehand (and that thing was no slouch!).

WLachnit
09/12/2017, 04:18 PM
Indeed! I've got one on my refugium and it certainly outperforms the sodium lamp I had on it beforehand (and that thing was no slouch!).



Yes, not only crazy bright, but you can just tell the spectrum is very different from coral lighting.

WLachnit
09/19/2017, 06:04 AM
Decided to pull 2 of my 3 BTA anemones out. They had stayed put for months, but started walking around quite a bit a couple of weeks ago. I had given them quite a bit of rom away from my SPS, but after stinging my Birdsnest, it was time to go. I wonder now...I had stopped feeding them Silversides...and may be their light requirements changed, causing them to walk?

WLachnit
09/24/2017, 02:36 PM
I'm keeping the one nem for now, but he definitely likes to stretch out and his tentacles wave close by my calacali Acro.

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WLachnit
10/13/2017, 11:12 PM
After a couple weeks of fantastic macro growth, it has now stalled out for the last couple of weeks. I'm also dosing some NOPOx which maybe has thrown off my NO3:PO4 ratio? Maybe my water has low iron?

So, for grins and giggles I'm sending off a water sample for ICP analysis. Perhaps that may giv me some insight.

kenneth wolfe
10/14/2017, 02:34 AM
I'm looking , I might not see it, but is there some kind of kalk on ato?

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kenneth wolfe
10/14/2017, 02:49 AM
If not a simple kalk reactor is great for combating it.

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kenneth wolfe
10/14/2017, 02:51 AM
My other thought is in your sump w algae , remove the rock, promote spin of your algae.

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WLachnit
10/17/2017, 11:33 PM
I'm looking , I might not see it, but is there some kind of kalk on ato?

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Actually, I don't use kalk. I'm curious how that would help?

WLachnit
10/17/2017, 11:35 PM
My other thought is in your sump w algae , remove the rock, promote spin of your algae.

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Good point, my algae doesn't spin...and I'm sure that doesn't help. Maybe I'll setup a small power head to see if I can get it to tumble.

McPuff
10/18/2017, 12:13 PM
Good point, my algae doesn't spin...and I'm sure that doesn't help. Maybe I'll setup a small power head to see if I can get it to tumble.

I don't tumble chaeto at all in the refugium... it grows quite well and very dense. I do have a pulsing action in there though, so maybe that serves the same, or similar, purpose. Your mars aqua light will penetrate pretty deep into some dense chaeto and still light the underside. Trust me.

kenneth wolfe
10/18/2017, 12:41 PM
Not to split hares , a slow tumble on 24 hour light imo is best, in theory if the algae was so dense that light only penetrates one side then a slow tumble will expose the unlit areas more effectively. Just far more efficient..

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JVU
10/18/2017, 12:58 PM
I agree with the tumbling theory for optimization (and cool factor), but practically speaking since you have a bright refugium light the algae should be filling the whole refugium space very quickly without any tumbling, under the right water conditions. Mine doesn’t tumble and I’m taking out basketball size clumps every couple weeks or else it gets too packed in there.

I don’t think it is likely that the cause of stalled chaeto is because it isn’t tumbling. More likely that you don’t have enough of some nutrients for it to grow. Since you are using NOPOX, that is the most likely candidate, since it will consume the NO3 and PO4 faster via bacteria that out-compete macroalgae.

WLachnit
10/18/2017, 01:14 PM
I agree with the tumbling theory for optimization (and cool factor), but practically speaking since you have a bright refugium light the algae should be filling the whole refugium space very quickly without any tumbling, under the right water conditions. Mine doesn’t tumble and I’m taking out basketball size clumps every couple weeks or else it gets too packed in there.

I don’t think it is likely that the cause of stalled chaeto is because it isn’t tumbling. More likely that you don’t have enough of some nutrients for it to grow. Since you are using NOPOX, that is the most likely candidate, since it will consume the NO3 and PO4 faster via bacteria that out-compete macroalgae.


Since I know that you also run NOPOX, what are your NO3 and PO4 levels?

JVU
10/18/2017, 01:47 PM
As a trial I tapered and stopped the NOPOX because it was working too well and zeroing out my NO3 and PO4 in conjunction with the chaeto.

Now my levels are very low (NO3- 5 ppm, PO4 approx 0 ppm with Salifert), with just the chaeto and no NOPOX for a couple weeks. Chaeto is growing like nuts. I’m still a bit fan of NOPOX because it works amazingly well, but I overall prefer a refugium for pods, because it appeals to me as a biological system, and because it’s one less thing to do every day.