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malx
06/20/2017, 09:05 PM
Hi, Everyone.

So, about to ditch ZEOvit and anything else I can on my tank that's excessive. I thought I fixed my STN problem from a few months ago, added a bunch of corals and SURPRISE, I got f_____ked.

What I want to know from everyone is..
1: Show me your minimalistic SPS tanks that have good growth.
2: Tell me about your system.

I'm going to be pulling all that I can that's un-needed in hopes that I can end up with a very simple system that will grow acropora.

For those of you who want to know about my STN issue and the history of that, you can see the post here: http://zeovit.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36020

Thanks for looking
Joey

swk
06/20/2017, 09:13 PM
All I use is a skimmer and calcium reactor. No carbon or gfo. No carbon dosing.

I change water every month and supplement iodine weekly.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170621/d5985971c757d86c1958f41ca57c134b.jpg

These are a year apart and was BY FAR the worst year of the tanks life. There were 2 occasions where toxic material was introduced and the tank almost crashed a couple of times. On its best day alk demand was decimated and color was crap. Finally after about a year of water changes things have settled down and have really hit a groove.

jda
06/20/2017, 10:33 PM
I don't have any pictures, but I have been minimalistic for years...

return pump
CaRx
skimmer
heaters on Ranco
metal halides
Tunze Pump & Wavebox
routine water changes with home-brew IO
real live rock and 3 inch sandbed that denitrifies on it's own

No apex. No dosing. No ATO - don't trust them. No dusk/dawn. Most of all, no equipment or method that is less than five years old in reliability -been burned.

malx
06/20/2017, 11:01 PM
Thanks for the tips guys.

malx
06/20/2017, 11:02 PM
All I use is a skimmer and calcium reactor. No carbon or gfo. No carbon dosing.

I change water every month and supplement iodine weekly.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170621/d5985971c757d86c1958f41ca57c134b.jpg

These are a year apart and was BY FAR the worst year of the tanks life. There were 2 occasions where toxic material was introduced and the tank almost crashed a couple of times. On its best day alk demand was decimated and color was crap. Finally after about a year of water changes things have settled down and have really hit a groove.

My tank will be a year old next month. Do you think I should just wait it out?

jda
06/20/2017, 11:13 PM
I know that nobody wants to hear this, but a tank is not fully cycled usually until a year at the earliest. It can be longer if you inhibit the last (and most important part) of the cycle, which is turning NO3 into N gas. This can take a LOT longer if you used dry rock or otherwise stripped the NO3 and PO4 with organic carbon or GFO. This needs to happen including some ugly times with some dinos, cyano and hair algae - a stable tank will get past this with solid live rock (and sand), routine water changes and patience.

A SPS tank is as mature as it needs to be when everything is covered with coralline (I mean covered like you hate purple with a vengeance), you have pods everywhere and the shaded parts of your rocks are covered in sponges.

malx
06/20/2017, 11:15 PM
I know that nobody wants to hear this, but a tank is not fully cycled usually until a year at the earliest. It can be longer if you inhibit the last (and most important part) of the cycle, which is turning NO3 into N gas. This can take a LOT longer if you used dry rock or otherwise stripped the NO3 and PO4 with organic carbon or GFO. This needs to happen including some ugly times with some dinos, cyano and hair algae - a stable tank will get past this with solid live rock (and sand), routine water changes and patience.

A SPS tank is as mature as it needs to be when everything is covered with coralline (I mean covered like you hate purple with a vengeance), you have pods everywhere and the shaded parts of your rocks are covered in sponges.



All good points. I do not have much coraline algae. I'm trough my other phases. I do see lots of pods. Your advice is fine, if you think my tank is still maturing that gives me some hope.

What I'm thinking of doing is pulling all dead coral and just continuing on. Maybe ditching ZEOvit is a bit harsh but I still got no clue what is going on.


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jda
06/20/2017, 11:25 PM
I don't think that ditching Zeo is harsh. I think that it is smart. I think that Zeo and the other similar products are, at best, a method for the established and experienced to get a short-lived boost out of their tank. Mostly, I think that the boost comes from a renewed interest and not so much the products since most still have the boost after they quit. I do not think that it is a good method for a new tank. It does not seem like you gave Zeo a half-azzed effort... if it is not working, then what more do you need to know? Spend the money on some extra IO (or salt of your choosing) and change more water and you will get farther, IMO.

Will your tank keep NO3 at zero if you stop dosing everything else? That is the next question that I think needs answered. The really stable SPS tanks will do this if they have sand and most of the BB ones will too. People overlook it, but it is an important step.

There is always hope.

malx
06/20/2017, 11:36 PM
I don't think that ditching Zeo is harsh. I think that it is smart. I think that Zeo and the other similar products are, at best, a method for the established and experienced to get a short-lived boost out of their tank. Mostly, I think that the boost comes from a renewed interest and not so much the products since most still have the boost after they quit. I do not think that it is a good method for a new tank. It does not seem like you gave Zeo a half-azzed effort... if it is not working, then what more do you need to know? Spend the money on some extra IO (or salt of your choosing) and change more water and you will get farther, IMO.

Will your tank keep NO3 at zero if you stop dosing everything else? That is the next question that I think needs answered. The really stable SPS tanks will do this if they have sand and most of the BB ones will too. People overlook it, but it is an important step.

There is always hope.



I think the first step could be to shut off my ZEO reactor and turn up my Algae reactor which I could hope would off set the nitrate boost if any. After I could confirm that nutrients are similar. I'd add more live rock to the sump. Then after that, stop dosing the ZEO products. I don't know. I asked the ZEO guys how to back track. I'm so upset with all of this right now.


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mike810
06/21/2017, 01:07 AM
I tried zeo and it didn't work for me. The notion of stripping the water with zeo products then adding it back in did nothing for my corals. I think it stripped too much from the water starving my corals. I rather just feed my fish, have nutrients in the water for the corals instead of trying to supply nutrients thru little blue bottles. Not saying zeo doesn't work, it just didn't work for me. You can still use some of their products without going full zeo with the rocks and all.

sfdan
06/21/2017, 03:04 AM
In the post you linked to, you said your alk ranged from 8 - 8.9 over a 2 week period. My tank is a little bigger but I can dial in my calcium reactor so my alkalinity is rock stable and doesn't move at all day to day. My general feeling about SPS is that if you have enough flow and stable alkalinity, your corals will be happy. I don't want to discount tank age, but you got to keep your parameters stable to let your stuff thrive as your tank matures.

What alk test kit are you using? Is it bouncing around from 8 to 8.9 or is it gradually rising and falling?

You also need to be careful with water changes that are too large since a lot salt mixes will have alk that is much higher than 8-9.

jda
06/21/2017, 08:59 AM
I think the first step could be to shut off my ZEO reactor and turn up my Algae reactor which I could hope would off set the nitrate boost if any. After I could confirm that nutrients are similar. I'd add more live rock to the sump. Then after that, stop dosing the ZEO products. I don't know. I asked the ZEO guys how to back track. I'm so upset with all of this right now.

The whole point of letting the tank mature is to let the nitrate climb and provide food/fuel for the bacteria to grow and settle in. If you bring a reactor online, then you will just delay this.

I would stop everything and let the tank go. Feed your fish and let nature take over... it will do a better job than a human. If it will stay at zero all on it's own, then your cycle is done. If not, then you might have a bit longer with some dinos and cyano, but yes it needs to mature more. In either case, don't do anything to help it.

Once your tank is super mature and it cannot handle nitrate or phosphate anymore as you stock, then this is where you put some chaeto or GFO online. Not every tank needs this. If I grew chaeto, my corals would starve - I have .1 N and 1 or 2 on the Hannah ULR P checker (the actual number), so no need to go down any more. Chaeto and GFO have become more common as folks use barebottom tanks and dry/dead rock which make it really hard for the tank to denitrify it's self putting the burdon on the reefer. "Cute" aquascapes can also not denitrify well since they don't use much rock. Before this, nearly nobody had nitrate issues, but phosphate could become an issue if people slacked off on their maintenance.

How much rock do you have? Do you have sand? Got a pic handy?

Hentz
06/21/2017, 10:04 AM
Honestly bro, this is one of the reasons I'm stopping ZEO. I want to let nature take its course in my tank, like I was telling you at your house.

As of right now, my ZEOreactor is off, especially since I probably killed the bacteria on the stones anyways. Tank isn't in its prime, thats for sure.... But I've been feeding normal and slowing on my carbon dosing with ZEOstart as well. It's thriving, better than it was just a week ago at my in-laws.

jda's comment makes me not even want to setup my chaeto reactor until my tank needs it. Was planning on adding it after cycle.

malx
06/21/2017, 10:30 AM
Honestly bro, this is one of the reasons I'm stopping ZEO. I want to let nature take its course in my tank, like I was telling you at your house.

As of right now, my ZEOreactor is off, especially since I probably killed the bacteria on the stones anyways. Tank isn't in its prime, thats for sure.... But I've been feeding normal and slowing on my carbon dosing with ZEOstart as well. It's thriving, better than it was just a week ago at my in-laws.

jda's comment makes me not even want to setup my chaeto reactor until my tank needs it. Was planning on adding it after cycle.

This is a great idea. I'm going to actually ditch the ZEO rocks as Step 1. I love the ZEO products I think they are great as they work really well, but I think I can simplify my system. Step 1 is going to be to remove the ZEO reactor and the rocks and add extra fresh live rock to the sump and remove phosphates / nitrates by turning up my Cheato reactor.

malx
06/21/2017, 10:34 AM
The whole point of letting the tank mature is to let the nitrate climb and provide food/fuel for the bacteria to grow and settle in. If you bring a reactor online, then you will just delay this.

I would stop everything and let the tank go. Feed your fish and let nature take over... it will do a better job than a human. If it will stay at zero all on it's own, then your cycle is done. If not, then you might have a bit longer with some dinos and cyano, but yes it needs to mature more. In either case, don't do anything to help it.

Once your tank is super mature and it cannot handle nitrate or phosphate anymore as you stock, then this is where you put some chaeto or GFO online. Not every tank needs this. If I grew chaeto, my corals would starve - I have .1 N and 1 or 2 on the Hannah ULR P checker (the actual number), so no need to go down any more. Chaeto and GFO have become more common as folks use barebottom tanks and dry/dead rock which make it really hard for the tank to denitrify it's self putting the burdon on the reefer. "Cute" aquascapes can also not denitrify well since they don't use much rock. Before this, nearly nobody had nitrate issues, but phosphate could become an issue if people slacked off on their maintenance.

How much rock do you have? Do you have sand? Got a pic handy?

My aquascape is minimal but I do have a lot of live rock in the sump. Ignore the container next to the tank I was making a joke here:
https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18425249_10210712991353366_2610346431940275262_n.jpg?oh=fa660f68dce5c4b771870fae3d693b2e&oe=59CBAF15

Can you tell me more about Chaeto and what happened when you brought some online?

malx
06/21/2017, 10:39 AM
In the post you linked to, you said your alk ranged from 8 - 8.9 over a 2 week period. My tank is a little bigger but I can dial in my calcium reactor so my alkalinity is rock stable and doesn't move at all day to day. My general feeling about SPS is that if you have enough flow and stable alkalinity, your corals will be happy. I don't want to discount tank age, but you got to keep your parameters stable to let your stuff thrive as your tank matures.

What alk test kit are you using? Is it bouncing around from 8 to 8.9 or is it gradually rising and falling?

You also need to be careful with water changes that are too large since a lot salt mixes will have alk that is much higher than 8-9.

It gradually rises and falls. I use the Hannah Alk Checker and I even have the calibration for it so I know it's reading .2dkh too low.

Hentz
06/21/2017, 11:34 AM
This is a great idea. I'm going to actually ditch the ZEO rocks as Step 1. I love the ZEO products I think they are great as they work really well, but I think I can simplify my system. Step 1 is going to be to remove the ZEO reactor and the rocks and add extra fresh live rock to the sump and remove phosphates / nitrates by turning up my Cheato reactor.

Good. I've been running my rocks on 3 hours on/off instead of full on for the past month and a half.
I love the products also. You've seen my last tank, ZEOvit worked absolutely amazing. But after reading more and more and doing a lot of digging into bacteria, I'd rather have a tank ran by natural bacteria instead of ZEOvit stripping the water.

My goal for my upgrade is natural as possible. I want vibrant acropora with the good growth.

malx
06/21/2017, 11:49 AM
Good. I've been running my rocks on 3 hours on/off instead of full on for the past month and a half.
I love the products also. You've seen my last tank, ZEOvit worked absolutely amazing. But after reading more and more and doing a lot of digging into bacteria, I'd rather have a tank ran by natural bacteria instead of ZEOvit stripping the water.

My goal for my upgrade is natural as possible. I want vibrant acropora with the good growth.

My rocks have been 2hrs on and 2hrs off for 3 months. Last change I made is I reduced the rocks by 1/2. Next change I am going to make is putting in almost no flow for 2 weeks. If no nutrient spike, they come out!

swk
06/21/2017, 11:50 AM
My rocks have been 2hrs on and 2hrs off for 3 months. Last change I made is I reduced the rocks by 1/2. Next change I am going to make is putting in almost no flow for 2 weeks. If no nutrient spike, they come out!



I would EXPECT a nutrient spike but don't worry about nutrients. They are not bad guys. My tank that I posted pics of above runs at 10-15 no3 and .1-.2 po4

malx
06/21/2017, 11:52 AM
I would EXPECT a nutrient spike but don't worry about nutrients. They are not bad guys. My tank that I posted pics of above runs at 10-15 no3 and .1-.2 po4

Ok thanks for the tip!

swk
06/21/2017, 11:54 AM
Ok thanks for the tip!



You bet. If they do spike, give it some time for new strains to balance things out and see where they land after a couple months. If you have an issue with where they are then you can do some extra water changes.

Again, try not to equate nutrients with being bad. It's not the case.

lynchmob3000
06/21/2017, 12:39 PM
The only thing that will probably happen is your corals will darken and probably alk consumption will drop a bit at first. As long as this is compensated you will probably enjoy what's about to happen! Gl


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malx
06/21/2017, 01:08 PM
The only thing that will probably happen is your corals will darken and probably alk consumption will drop a bit at first. As long as this is compensated you will probably enjoy what's about to happen! Gl


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Yeah well what I am doing now isn't working! LOL

jda
06/21/2017, 01:14 PM
Let me try this one last time... and I will be more emphatic before I bow out. You will not be able to be in charge of this and have it work out. If you must control the nutrients on your own, then you will fail and somebody will be getting a good deal soon on all of your really nice stuff.

Stop everything that you are doing but water changes and feeding your fish. The N and P need to rise to later fall. You will need to have cyano, diatoms and the ugly phases to get past them. Bringing anything online to keep them low will just keep you on the same path that you are on now where you are not going to be able to do what nature has learned to do so well.

Just let go for two or three months. Then, test some water and see where you are at.

Adding extra real live rock to the sump is a good idea, BTW.

jda
06/21/2017, 01:22 PM
Can you tell me more about Chaeto and what happened when you brought some online?

I don't use chaeto on my SPS tanks. I have before on my FOWLRs. The SPS tank will handle the N and P all on it's own and the chaeto would take the few critical bit of nutrients that I have from my SPS.

Chaeto is a very effective N and P exporter. However, it is not necessary on every tank. It would be a disaster on my SPS tank. On my past FOWLRs it was a welcome addition that kept N and P in check and provided a great place to house new fish and grow mysid shrimp and pods.

malx
06/21/2017, 02:24 PM
I don't use chaeto on my SPS tanks. I have before on my FOWLRs. The SPS tank will handle the N and P all on it's own and the chaeto would take the few critical bit of nutrients that I have from my SPS.

Chaeto is a very effective N and P exporter. However, it is not necessary on every tank. It would be a disaster on my SPS tank. On my past FOWLRs it was a welcome addition that kept N and P in check and provided a great place to house new fish and grow mysid shrimp and pods.

Thanks for the tip. I have my Chaeto reactor turned WAY WAY down. I'm going to keep it working small until I compeltly shut off my ZEOvit reactor then go from there.

Once I know it can handle the bio load I may just stop dosing the ZEOstart and just dose the bacteria and bacteria food.

swk
06/21/2017, 02:27 PM
Let me try this one last time... and I will be more emphatic before I bow out. You will not be able to be in charge of this and have it work out. If you must control the nutrients on your own, then you will fail and somebody will be getting a good deal soon on all of your really nice stuff.

Stop everything that you are doing but water changes and feeding your fish. The N and P need to rise to later fall. You will need to have cyano, diatoms and the ugly phases to get past them. Bringing anything online to keep them low will just keep you on the same path that you are on now where you are not going to be able to do what nature has learned to do so well.

Just let go for two or three months. Then, test some water and see where you are at.

Adding extra real live rock to the sump is a good idea, BTW.



Thanks for the tip. I have my Chaeto reactor turned WAY WAY down. I'm going to keep it working small until I compeltly shut off my ZEOvit reactor then go from there.



Once I know it can handle the bio load I may just stop dosing the ZEOstart and just dose the bacteria and bacteria food.



I think maybe you missed jda's post before the chaeto comment?

Great advice from him/her that I completely agree with and all the fiddling you're doing in an attempt to wean the tank off the products are simply prolonging the inevitable. Just cut the cord and be done with it.

malx
06/21/2017, 03:03 PM
I think maybe you missed jda's post before the chaeto comment?

Great advice from him/her that I completely agree with and all the fiddling you're doing in an attempt to wean the tank off the products are simply prolonging the inevitable. Just cut the cord and be done with it.

Well no I didn't miss it. Because I have it in a reactor I can keep it really low. It keeps my PH up at night. But again I'll have to just wait and see.

Potatohead
06/21/2017, 03:19 PM
My tank is now 14 months old and I am finally starting to see results with sps as of 2 - 3 months ago. I can sympathize with the OP in that although everything before was "correct" in terms of numbers, but corals just didn't do well. I can say I haven't changed much in the last few months other than needing to put a doser online, but the corals are completely different in terms of color/growth/polyp extension.

I did start my tank with dry rock. If I was to do it again, I would probably use dry rock again but I would just let it run and run and not worry about it. I might add fish after a couple months but I wouldn't add any lps or sps for quite a while, at least nine months, maybe more. I used to think the "wait a year" mantra was hogwash but it is absolutely true unless you start with high quality seasoned live rock.

Horace
06/21/2017, 03:51 PM
Im not sure why everyone is so afraid of nitrates. Nitrates are not a big deal. Ive seen tanks that would freggin blow your minds, with colors that look photoshopped, and huge colonies, and that was with nitrate as high as 50. It is absolutely not needed to have nitrate and po4 at zero to have success. In fact, my tank looked far more pale/pastel in color when I did. Most tanks that have 0/0 are actually starving the corals and are doing more harm than good. My point is, you are far better off feeding more food to your fish (and indirectly to your corals) and having some nitrate/po4, than you are by starving them to maintain a 0/0 test. Once i realized this truth my tank went from near zero growth, and super pale colors to this:

And for what its worth, I had Zeo running when it looked like S*#T and when it looked good. The only difference? More fish, more food....

At this stage in this tank's life, I could see growth on my corals within 24 hours... no joke. It would drop about 1-1.5dkh per day of alk if not maintained.

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t35/bischofk/Aug18-2007FullTank.jpg

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t35/bischofk/IMG_1990.jpg

malx
06/21/2017, 05:29 PM
Im not sure why everyone is so afraid of nitrates. Nitrates are not a big deal. Ive seen tanks that would freggin blow your minds, with colors that look photoshopped, and huge colonies, and that was with nitrate as high as 50. It is absolutely not needed to have nitrate and po4 at zero to have success. In fact, my tank looked far more pale/pastel in color when I did. Most tanks that have 0/0 are actually starving the corals and are doing more harm than good. My point is, you are far better off feeding more food to your fish (and indirectly to your corals) and having some nitrate/po4, than you are by starving them to maintain a 0/0 test. Once i realized this truth my tank went from near zero growth, and super pale colors to this:

And for what its worth, I had Zeo running when it looked like S*#T and when it looked good. The only difference? More fish, more food....

At this stage in this tank's life, I could see growth on my corals within 24 hours... no joke. It would drop about 1-1.5dkh per day of alk if not maintained.

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t35/bischofk/Aug18-2007FullTank.jpg

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t35/bischofk/IMG_1990.jpg

Dude looks amazing! I'm sold! Let's get these nutrients going! ZEO reactor is running minimal, going to be taking it offline this weekend or next weekend.

malx
06/21/2017, 05:30 PM
My tank is now 14 months old and I am finally starting to see results with sps as of 2 - 3 months ago. I can sympathize with the OP in that although everything before was "correct" in terms of numbers, but corals just didn't do well. I can say I haven't changed much in the last few months other than needing to put a doser online, but the corals are completely different in terms of color/growth/polyp extension.

I did start my tank with dry rock. If I was to do it again, I would probably use dry rock again but I would just let it run and run and not worry about it. I might add fish after a couple months but I wouldn't add any lps or sps for quite a while, at least nine months, maybe more. I used to think the "wait a year" mantra was hogwash but it is absolutely true unless you start with high quality seasoned live rock.

Thanks for the tip dude! Yeah my tank is young and I guess that's the problem with SPS. Nothing good comes overnight.

jda
06/21/2017, 06:16 PM
It keeps my PH up at night.

Disconnect your PH probe and never look at it again. Although it does not hurt to know what it is, everybody who has chased PH has gotten into trouble at some point or another whereas the folks who don't know never have any problems.

Keep alk stable and don't ever look at PH.

malx
06/21/2017, 09:17 PM
Let me try this one last time... and I will be more emphatic before I bow out. You will not be able to be in charge of this and have it work out. If you must control the nutrients on your own, then you will fail and somebody will be getting a good deal soon on all of your really nice stuff.

Stop everything that you are doing but water changes and feeding your fish. The N and P need to rise to later fall. You will need to have cyano, diatoms and the ugly phases to get past them. Bringing anything online to keep them low will just keep you on the same path that you are on now where you are not going to be able to do what nature has learned to do so well.

Just let go for two or three months. Then, test some water and see where you are at.

Adding extra real live rock to the sump is a good idea, BTW.

I'm not going to just shut everything off at once and risk killing stuff. I have two really beautiful clams in the tank that are doing great and I don't want to risk them.

StarF
06/22/2017, 04:11 AM
No water changes
Calcium reactor
15l of siporax
big skimmer
good growth but its a new system i setup when i moved from one house to another, so i have no progress pictures yet...

adding aquaforest bacteria each day with 3-4ml vsv (to fuel the siporax)
running around 40g rowa and some zeolith stones in a reactoer the aquaforest way aswell...

http://i.imgur.com/QF7FXGM.jpg

Horace
06/22/2017, 08:56 AM
Dude looks amazing! I'm sold! Let's get these nutrients going! ZEO reactor is running minimal, going to be taking it offline this weekend or next weekend.

Im not suggesting you stop Zeo. I think Zeo does have benefits in regards to using carbon dosing to both feed and keep nutrients "low", but the key is to NOT chase 0/0. Low nutrients is good....but IMHO ZERO detectable nutrients for most tanks is disaster. Unless you are feeding massive amounts, and you have such efficient nutrient export and bioload that you can maintain 0/0 (which 99% of tanks are not capable of), then you are better off with small amounts of nutrients. In my experience, I like to push my feeding/nutrients (mostly nitrate) to the point where i start getting small amounts of hair algae in the display, then back it off a bit. For me that tends to be Nitrate <5ppm or so. Po4 I tend to try to keep low as well, but not 0.

zsuman101
06/22/2017, 09:52 AM
Yep, I'm a zeo reefer and my reefs look terrible if I go below 5 ppm nitrate.

malx
06/22/2017, 11:24 AM
Yep, I'm a zeo reefer and my reefs look terrible if I go below 5 ppm nitrate.

Yeah. I'm pulling my ZEO reactor and will use the ZEO products to carbon dose if I need to. I'll keep everyone posted.

Horace
06/22/2017, 08:28 PM
why are you pulling the zeo reactor? just FEED more :). Thats all you gotta do. Zeo fundamentally allows more feeding, and creates more bacteria for the corals to eat. I feel zeo is a sound method. If you are invested already I personally would not bow out.

malx
06/22/2017, 10:21 PM
why are you pulling the zeo reactor? just FEED more :). Thats all you gotta do. Zeo fundamentally allows more feeding, and creates more bacteria for the corals to eat. I feel zeo is a sound method. If you are invested already I personally would not bow out.

For a few reasons... I have too much filtration on this system and this one is the best to take off because it also frees up a plug.

ryanrid
06/22/2017, 11:18 PM
i ran full zeovit religously for 6ish years here is my last zeo tank
http://s696.photobucket.com/user/thepubenator/media/IMG_8075_zpscfce55a3.jpg.html

and now i run a tank with nothing but a skimmer
http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv324/thepubenator/BC05A80F-B0F7-4B6A-B8E2-E47F8CEC67A7_zpsk2ejr1es.jpg (http://s696.photobucket.com/user/thepubenator/media/BC05A80F-B0F7-4B6A-B8E2-E47F8CEC67A7_zpsk2ejr1es.jpg.html)

06/23/2017, 07:50 AM
Let me try this one last time... and I will be more emphatic before I bow out. You will not be able to be in charge of this and have it work out. If you must control the nutrients on your own, then you will fail and somebody will be getting a good deal soon on all of your really nice stuff.

Stop everything that you are doing but water changes and feeding your fish. The N and P need to rise to later fall. You will need to have cyano, diatoms and the ugly phases to get past them. Bringing anything online to keep them low will just keep you on the same path that you are on now where you are not going to be able to do what nature has learned to do so well.

Just let go for two or three months. Then, test some water and see where you are at.

Adding extra real live rock to the sump is a good idea, BTW.

@jda - i was thinking of adding some live rocks to my sump due to lack of biodiversity , starting with all dry rocks and falling a prey to modern hypes .

The hype about pests in live rocks is so overrated that it's of lesser significance to the abundance of micro fauna we get in live rocks .
Anyways , which live rocks do you suggest ? I thought pacific ones are the best . If so , any suggestion where to get good ones ?

Regards,
Abhishek

malx
06/23/2017, 09:19 AM
i ran full zeovit religously for 6ish years here is my last zeo tank

http://s696.photobucket.com/user/thepubenator/media/IMG_8075_zpscfce55a3.jpg.html



and now i run a tank with nothing but a skimmer

http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv324/thepubenator/BC05A80F-B0F7-4B6A-B8E2-E47F8CEC67A7_zpsk2ejr1es.jpg (http://s696.photobucket.com/user/thepubenator/media/BC05A80F-B0F7-4B6A-B8E2-E47F8CEC67A7_zpsk2ejr1es.jpg.html)



You tank looks great. For some reason thI first picture didn't work. Can you repost?


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Horace
06/23/2017, 03:05 PM
I think you are thinking about this wrong. You dont remove filtration because you have too much. There really is no such thing. You just ADD FOOD. More food equals more growth. The more/better filtration you have, the more you can feed while keeping Po4/No3 in check. Just feed more....its pretty simple man. You are overthinking this.

Scorpius
06/24/2017, 09:17 PM
I used to run Chaeto until it all died on me. Best thing that could have happened as the chaeto was keeping my water to clean of nutrients.

cpllongjk
06/25/2017, 02:04 AM
To the OP.

I ran Zeovit for several years with mixed results. This is what I gathered with their method.

1. You strip the water of Nitrate and Phosphate using zeolites to grow a bacterial bed in.
2. You strip the water so well you actually have to add Nitrate and Phosphate back into the tank.
3. The zeolites deplete potassium (I THINK)
4. If you neglect your tank for even a few weeks it could end very badly for you.
5. Zeovit has a very high upkeep cost.

For all the reasons above is why I stopped using zeovit. Does it work, yes it can. But it takes someone with more devotion/OCD than I.

ClownReef®
06/25/2017, 09:12 AM
I ditched Zeo. It stripped the water of nutrients until it starved all the SPS. They lost all their beautiful color. I followed the rules down to a science. It just didnt work for me. That only works for SPS reefs in Poland and Germany..lol

But really.. Im following a "keep it simple, stupid" approach right now.

I have a Ca. reactor hooked up, and dozing Aquavitro Fuel since it has worked for me in the past..

malx
06/25/2017, 11:54 AM
Update here for everyone. So I pulled the ZEOlite reactor and added about 20 more pounds of live rock to the sump. I am still using the ZEO products for dosing but I am not dosing and nitrate and phosphate remover, only the bacteria to build up some more in the new rock as well as coral foods like Coral Vitalizer and Sponge Power. Doing this for a few weeks to let nitrates and phosphates creep up. Wish me luck!


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lynchmob3000
06/25/2017, 01:52 PM
You can also set your skimmer a little on the dry side


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malx
06/25/2017, 02:02 PM
You can also set your skimmer a little on the dry side


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Yes! This is my next step if nutrients don't climb a little.


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malx
06/29/2017, 09:13 PM
Hi, All.

So just a quick status here. Pulled the reactor last friday and the nitrates crept up to 5. Phosphates are still 0 but my plating montipora looks like it's getting its color back. Going to keep doing what I'm doing and see where I'm at after the week.

jda
06/29/2017, 10:01 PM
The phosphates are likely binding to the aragonite. Lots of people get fooled here and think that they don't have any - you have some. Keep on with your water changes to export them. If you stay on the water changes, then the aragonite will never stay full - your water change will lower them (a bit) and the aragonite will release them back to equilibrium.

Eventually, the aragonite will fill up. This is no bueno, as you can imagine. Doing water changes regularly and early is key to long-term success.

I am glad to hear that stuff is looking better.

malx
06/30/2017, 11:58 AM
The phosphates are likely binding to the aragonite. Lots of people get fooled here and think that they don't have any - you have some. Keep on with your water changes to export them. If you stay on the water changes, then the aragonite will never stay full - your water change will lower them (a bit) and the aragonite will release them back to equilibrium.

Eventually, the aragonite will fill up. This is no bueno, as you can imagine. Doing water changes regularly and early is key to long-term success.

I am glad to hear that stuff is looking better.

Thank you for the tip! Yes, it's very easy for me to do 6% water changes every 3 days because of how I make my salt. I know it's not much but that's what I'm going to do for now until I have another problem because it appears like things are stabilizing.

Cheers,
Joey

mike810
06/30/2017, 12:51 PM
I think you are thinking about this wrong. You dont remove filtration because you have too much. There really is no such thing. You just ADD FOOD. More food equals more growth. The more/better filtration you have, the more you can feed while keeping Po4/No3 in check. Just feed more....its pretty simple man. You are overthinking this.

There is such a thing as too much filtration, Zeovit is very good at stripping the water of all nutrients. Then you have to feed a sh*t ton of food just to get some nutrients back into the tank.

malx
06/30/2017, 03:09 PM
There is such a thing as too much filtration, Zeovit is very good at stripping the water of all nutrients. Then you have to feed a sh*t ton of food just to get some nutrients back into the tank.

Yeah and also I have an Omega 150 Skimmer and a Rollermat so the ZEO reactor is really unneeded. I could still use the products if they yield benefit with out the reactor but since I pulled it, I had more space for 20 more lbs of live rock which can only help.

purplereef
07/01/2017, 07:00 PM
I love your tank malx. I was a former zeo user.

malx
07/01/2017, 07:01 PM
I love your tank malx. I was a former zeo user.



Thanks. I wish my corals liked better but you love and learn!


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Lord,Darth Bane
07/02/2017, 01:44 AM
I have been using zeolite methods (Zeovit and Neozeo) since the very early years about 10 years ago but I ditched them all and went back to simple Berlin method in 2012.

They did work very well to clean the water (and deplete all nutrients) and you have to keep adding them back (AA, food, K, B, St, I).....just too complex and time consuming. I have had a time that I didn't keep up the nutrient level, then many corals such as SPS and LPS went terribly pale. I spent about 8 months to have it recovered.

Now I only use skimmer and Ca reactor, and the Prodibio to add bateria and carbon source every 14 days. Some food and additives of course. But much more simple and easy.

ryanrid
07/02/2017, 06:12 AM
Here is the last zero tank
http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv324/thepubenator/IMG_8075_zpscfce55a3.jpg (http://s696.photobucket.com/user/thepubenator/media/IMG_8075_zpscfce55a3.jpg.html)

malx
07/03/2017, 05:30 PM
Here is the last zero tank
http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv324/thepubenator/IMG_8075_zpscfce55a3.jpg (http://s696.photobucket.com/user/thepubenator/media/IMG_8075_zpscfce55a3.jpg.html)



Looks great!


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Randy27
07/04/2017, 03:14 AM
Gorgeous aquascape! A big green slimer stag would look great in there, just slightly off-center :)

malx
07/25/2017, 11:41 PM
Hi, Everyone.

Hope everyone is doing good. Corals are holding on and I'm seeing some growth. Small amounts of hair algae, and cyano which is good!

Attached is a Triton test and you can see that my phosphates are around 0.015.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3_bzO9CYz4RelcyOHlxeEd3dlk/view

Here is my current dosing:


3 Drops ZEOBak Every Other Day
3 Drops Sponge Power Every Other Day
2ml K+ Strong Every Other Day
And
3 Drops Coral Vitalizer Every Day

5ml Coral Snow + 5 Drops Cyano Clean 1x Weekly
1.2tsb ZEO Zym + 5 Drops Bio Mate 1x Weekly.

Going to do this for another few weeks and see how the corals do.

Now I don't want to go and treat any numbers, but if anyone looks at that Triton test and sees anything they would change let me know!

Thanks!
Joey

malx
08/18/2017, 08:05 PM
Well, my friggin corals are at it again and starting to Pale. Luckily this time I noticed. Not sure what to do. My nitrates are 5 and phosphates are .05. I should be in the sweet spot for SPS. The only thing I can think of is that I got a professional water test and the Iodine in my tank is minimal. Anyone think adding iodine will help?

Let me know!

jda
08/19/2017, 09:27 AM
Dr Holmes Farley has opined that iodine, in it's many forms, does not really do anything. He used to dose it and quit and never noticed anything. That being said, if you dose the right kind in the right concentration, then you cannot probably hurt anything... just get a test kit. You will get some anecdotal posts that iodine helped some folks and plenty more that it did not do much - however, you really need to find out what kind that they dosed because some kinds get skimmed right away, others bound to organics and never used and other kinds will float around for possible use.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/3/chemistry

Just changing a bit more water will bring this back to normal. It will also reload your iron which the chaeto probably depleted a bit.

The sweet spot for SPS is NSW parameters, IMO. I know that some folks like to raise nutrients, but I get the absolutely best color out of .01N and .005P, or very close to natural seawater. I would never let my P get over .01.

Like I have kinda posted before, you are going to need to pick a method and go with with. If you want to go pure Berlin, then stop dosing stuff, change your water and let the tank be and bring that fuge back online to get those nutrients down. If you want to go Zeo and add in nutrients and also carbon, then go full scale and do it 100%. Nobody can really ride two horses with one arse. I am not sure what you are doing now, so my apologies if you have done something like this.

Lastly, remember that young tanks do have ups and downs... so until you get to a year or more, then this might just be a blip and you might want to just push right through it. It might take even more than a year for a tank like yours with minimalistic rocks to get really stable with anoxic and oxic zones in the rock and sand to keep the N on the money all of the time.

Lord,Darth Bane
08/19/2017, 11:29 AM
Do you have any recent photos? Both main tank and sump? The old photos links on Zeovit forum do not work anymore....

IMO you need to rebuild the N-cycle in your tank. If you ditch Zeovit then you need to rebuild your tank in Berlin way. From your last photos on Zeovit forum you have too few live rocks for a Berlin system. You have to give the bacteria some media to grow after you ditch the Zeolite reactor. Try to add a few fresh live rocks, and perhaps 2L Sera Siporax in the sump.

My main tank is the same size or yours, 36"x20"x20". I have more live rocks than yours and about 5L of good media in the sump (Sera Siporax, Eheim Substrat, etc)

A mature system would have 0 (undetectable) NO3 without keep dosing carbon and bateria. Dosing carbon does help, but it cannot replace N-cycle in a mature system. All you have to do is wait, and be patient. In the old school way it was advised that corals can only be added after running a new tank for 3 months, but the Zeovit way said only 14 days. lol

And think about if there is any unnecessary dosing that you can stop. Personally I will only keep CV, or maybe SP and Zeobak. And stop all the others.

3 Drops ZEOBak Every Other Day
3 Drops Sponge Power Every Other Day
2ml K+ Strong Every Other Day
And
3 Drops Coral Vitalizer Every Day

5ml Coral Snow + 5 Drops Cyano Clean 1x Weekly
1.2tsb ZEO Zym + 5 Drops Bio Mate 1x Weekly.

Sam2832
08/19/2017, 05:16 PM
My setup is quite simple: dosing, +- 10 gal water change per week, some bacteria over the last year (newly cured rock) and lately flatworm stop to give a boost to the acros and coral snow to clear the water.I do run a small amount of rowa and passive carbon.My sump is really basic with no divider.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170819/fe4b0b95b71b01fec822432f0dbbcf0f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170819/ebf4c35c6eac331017cd56cddab22fd7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170819/0e001215567e5ac114504471e9a14809.jpg


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malx
08/19/2017, 05:20 PM
Thanks all for the advice. Currently my dosing has been basically reduced some of the basics of ZEOvit.

3 drops ZEObak every other day
3 Drops Sponge Power every other day
3 drops aminos and coral vitalizer each day
ZeoFood twice weekly

I added live rock to my sump when I pulled the reactor. I'm running about 30lbs of it right now in a 56 gallon tank.

I got a professional water test and the only thing that looked off was Iodine


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malx
08/19/2017, 05:22 PM
Thanks all for the advice. Currently my dosing has been basically reduced some of the basics of ZEOvit.

3 drops ZEObak every other day
3 Drops Sponge Power every other day
3 drops aminos and coral vitalizer each day
ZeoFood twice weekly

I added live rock to my sump when I pulled the reactor. I'm running about 30lbs of it right now in a 56 gallon tank.

I got a professional water test and the only thing that looked off was Iodine.

My iron could be low too it's at near zero. Will post pics of corals and sump soon


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malx
08/19/2017, 06:25 PM
Pics..



https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170819/ec75a1a4c5bcd35875afca1982d828ae.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170819/a23d2a829197337e2e2f655ffd41fe48.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170819/ae46c69dbd704c6caf5ca598ebd22386.jpg


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170819/cfcc829c0d84bcd6d68565ddefdd9802.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170819/c64ac5cde81a17a9631960aba6171a60.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170819/a6d573e7287314485ab69d24d545f0dd.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170819/9b4b38d83d5981a954e7a20832a0376f.jpg


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Bpb
08/19/2017, 09:54 PM
My setup is quite simple: dosing, +- 10 gal water change per week, some bacteria over the last year (newly cured rock) and lately flatworm stop to give a boost to the acros and coral snow to clear the water.I do run a small amount of rowa and passive carbon.My sump is really basic with no divider.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170819/fe4b0b95b71b01fec822432f0dbbcf0f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170819/ebf4c35c6eac331017cd56cddab22fd7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170819/0e001215567e5ac114504471e9a14809.jpg


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I'm really enjoying your light spectrum in that pic. Did you white balance it digitally to warm it up or are you running that low Kelvin or lighting? It looks fantastic.


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Sam2832
08/19/2017, 10:33 PM
Thanks Bpb!I'm old school for the lighthing,still running mh+t5.2 x 250 w de megachrome coral,2 actinic+ 54w,1 actinic 54 w,1 aquapink(for the sump only headlamp lol).

mike810
08/20/2017, 12:13 AM
If I were you, I'd cease all dosing of zeovit until your corals stop with their stn. You might even find that your corals might look better without the zeovit system. This was the case for me. I tried all the blue bottles along with the zeolite rocks. The system was just so so and to me was considered a failure. I started neglecting the tank and ceased all dosing, after a month or two of neglect, corals looked better than it ever did while on zeovit.

Edit: I'd also make sure your parameters, especially alkalinity is as stable as possible throughout the day.

Lord,Darth Bane
08/20/2017, 01:25 AM
System looks great, though your rocks look very clean. Those newly added live rocks in your sump, how fresh were they?

May or may not be the cause for pale corals, but I would add a few FRESH live rocks to seed them. I wouldn't hurt either.

Your red digitata looks great, but the monti looks pale/grey. Or is it just the photo?

If you are uncomfortable of your iodine level I'd try dosing and start with a little amount. Or maybe arrange a few bigger water change to correct it.

Stop adding new corals and wait for your system to mature and handle your current loading first. :thumbsup:

Currently I am also raising my NO3 from 0 to 5ppm. Some SPS do look better but some have less PE. It has only been a week and we should wait and see.

malx
08/20/2017, 01:27 AM
System looks great, though your rocks look very clean. Those newly added live rocks in your sump, how fresh were they?



May or may not be the cause for pale corals, but I would add a few FRESH live rocks to seed them. I wouldn't hurt either.



Your red digitata looks great, but the monti looks pale/grey. Or is it just the photo?



If you are uncomfortable of your iodine level I'd try dosing and start with a little amount. Or maybe arrange a few bigger water change to correct it.



Stop adding new corals and wait for your system to mature and handle your current loading first. :thumbsup:



Currently I am also raising my NO3 from 0 to 5ppm. Some SPS do look better but some have less PE. It has only been a week and we should wait and see.



Thanks. The rocks in the sump are fresh live rock that are a combination of a year old and a few months. The rock in the tank looks clean because I have an urchin that goes to town on them. Yes the monti is pale... that's part of the problem!


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Lord,Darth Bane
08/21/2017, 09:31 AM
I'd also try dosing potassium. Just read your Triton test that it was a bit low at 356ppm. My tank is battling SPS paleness as well and G. Alexander suggested me to check K. I just checked it yesterday to find it at only 320ppm. :hmm2:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2646708

malx
08/21/2017, 11:33 PM
I'd also try dosing potassium. Just read your Triton test that it was a bit low at 356ppm. My tank is battling SPS paleness as well and G. Alexander suggested me to check K. I just checked it yesterday to find it at only 320ppm. :hmm2:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2646708

Sounds good. Yes dosing both Potassium and Iodine right now to see if that helps. Thanks for the tip!

malx
08/22/2017, 11:01 AM
G. Alexander is suggesting that my rollermat could be leaching harmful substances via the paper. I feel like this is a stretch. Anyone else agree with it? You can see his comment here: http://zeovit.com/forums/showthread.php?p=332678#post332678

nashorn
08/22/2017, 04:52 PM
How old is your system ?

Lord,Darth Bane
08/23/2017, 05:28 AM
Don't know about rollermat. I don't even know there is this kind of product before viewing this thread. :lmao:

I use filter sock, but not 24/7. I only use it to collect debris after I blow them off the rocks, once a week or after water change.

Try not to make the water too clean. Some floating particles and planktons are good for the system and for the corals to feed on.

malx
08/24/2017, 01:02 PM
How old is your system ?

About 13 months.

malx
08/24/2017, 01:03 PM
Don't know about rollermat. I don't even know there is this kind of product before viewing this thread. :lmao:

I use filter sock, but not 24/7. I only use it to collect debris after I blow them off the rocks, once a week or after water change.

Try not to make the water too clean. Some floating particles and planktons are good for the system and for the corals to feed on.

Good advice. I spoke to BRS they said they haven't heard of any issues and they said they sell a lot. I trust them. I have a theory, I'll post it in a sec.

malx
08/24/2017, 01:06 PM
Here's a theory I thought about. Let me know what you guys think. So let's say I have X number of corals doing well. The system is stable and they are growing slowly. Next, let's say I add Y number of corals, but Y number is a lot. Let's say Y = X/2. So if I had 20 corals, I've added 10.

Now, if I have A B and C elements that are sufficient to run X corals, but a bit on the low spectrum, and I add Y number, could the combination of X and Y corals be too many, deplete A B and C elements, and the corals suffer as a result?

lynchmob3000
08/26/2017, 10:06 PM
What lighting are you running?


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Lord,Darth Bane
08/27/2017, 03:15 AM
Here's a theory I thought about. Let me know what you guys think. So let's say I have X number of corals doing well. The system is stable and they are growing slowly. Next, let's say I add Y number of corals, but Y number is a lot. Let's say Y = X/2. So if I had 20 corals, I've added 10.

Now, if I have A B and C elements that are sufficient to run X corals, but a bit on the low spectrum, and I add Y number, could the combination of X and Y corals be too many, deplete A B and C elements, and the corals suffer as a result?

Possibly, especially when elements A B C are dKH, Ca, and Mg.

I have always been a firm believer that weekly 10% water change could not correct everything. It just postpones disaster. It would dilute pollutants and replenish some elements, but the water would never get back to as good as day 1.

Thats why you need dosing, and big water change for those elements that we couldn't check. A big enough water change once or twice a year could help getting back those parameters to where they should be.

malx
08/27/2017, 03:26 PM
What lighting are you running?


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6 unit ATI T5 bulbs. 4 blue one purple and one actinic. Also two Kessil A80s for white shimmer.


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malx
08/27/2017, 03:28 PM
Possibly, especially when elements A B C are dKH, Ca, and Mg.



I have always been a firm believer that weekly 10% water change could not correct everything. It just postpones disaster. It would dilute pollutants and replenish some elements, but the water would never get back to as good as day 1.



Thats why you need dosing, and big water change for those elements that we couldn't check. A big enough water change once or twice a year could help getting back those parameters to where they should be.



Yes big water changes are good advice. I was considering doing something like 2 gallon water changes every few days to see if that helps. Once a year I like to do a series of 30% water changes a few days apart. If I don't see improvement in my tank in another 4 weeks with the small changes I'm going to try a large one.


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malx
08/27/2017, 03:29 PM
Also my montipora is coloring up a bit since I've been dosing more K and Iodine. I'm gunna give it a week and run another triton teat


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chgoblknazn
08/30/2017, 03:52 PM
What's your total water volume? Are your corals alk and calcium needs so big that you need a reactor now? I would assume that weekly water changes would be ok, as you don't have a lot of coral at the moment.

kenneth wolfe
09/04/2017, 10:35 PM
Get automatic feader.

malx
09/06/2017, 11:54 PM
So seems like iodine dosing is going well. Corals came back with color within a week and no additional algae. I wonder if this was the element that was missing. That's the only change I made


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chgoblknazn
09/06/2017, 11:56 PM
So seems like iodine dosing is going well. Corals came back with color within a week and no additional algae. I wonder if this was the element that was missing. That's the only change I made


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI'm curious which iodine supplement you used.

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Ztrain
09/08/2017, 03:13 AM
Correct me if I'm wrong but just reading through the thread you never actually did the Zeo system correctly? In the guide it pretty clearly states don't have anything additional on the system. You have a roller, you had an algae reactor etc. It says no other export methods are to be used. No GFO no bio pellets etc. Then you took one of the core parts off which was the Zeolites that are supposed to be the home of the bacteria that you are still dosing in to the system without the rocks.....

So far everyone I see not having good luck with it are generally doing it wrong by adding their own "extras" to the method or only implementing part of it because they don't think they need this part because of this or that. The previous thread I was reading said he wasn't having good luck with it and then went on to talk about his UV sterilizer............. Personal opinion is do it right or not at all.

malx
09/08/2017, 10:55 AM
Correct me if I'm wrong but just reading through the thread you never actually did the Zeo system correctly? In the guide it pretty clearly states don't have anything additional on the system. You have a roller, you had an algae reactor etc. It says no other export methods are to be used. No GFO no bio pellets etc. Then you took one of the core parts off which was the Zeolites that are supposed to be the home of the bacteria that you are still dosing in to the system without the rocks.....

So far everyone I see not having good luck with it are generally doing it wrong by adding their own "extras" to the method or only implementing part of it because they don't think they need this part because of this or that. The previous thread I was reading said he wasn't having good luck with it and then went on to talk about his UV sterilizer............. Personal opinion is do it right or not at all.

Well if you read my thread I took the ZEO reactor off and added an Algae reactor in its place. I wasn't having luck with the reactor and once I took it off I saw an immediate benefit. Also, I stopped dosing all of the NO3 PO4 reducing elements and that seems to help. Not sure why the rollermat is under blast it's just a filter sock that I don't have to change.

malx
09/08/2017, 10:57 AM
I'm curious which iodine supplement you used.

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I'm using the KZ stuff: https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/iron-concentrate-complex-korallen-zucht.html

G. Alexander seems to be pretty accurate with his dosing recommendations too. I followed his instructions of 5 drops for 5 days and then 2 drops daily and as per my Triton test, although it's still low, it's holing solid which is good. I'm going to increase this dosing 1 drop per day and in 6 weeks do another test.

I'm also adding Iron to the mix as that is 0, and I'd like to get that slightly above 0 as well.

malx
09/08/2017, 10:59 AM
What's your total water volume? Are your corals alk and calcium needs so big that you need a reactor now? I would assume that weekly water changes would be ok, as you don't have a lot of coral at the moment.

My CA, Alk, and Mg have never been the issue. I'm able to get those to hold pretty well at..

Between 7 and 7.5
Ca: 470
Mg: 1400

Ca reactor works well. I have a good amount of coral I'd say and I'm seeing a lot of growth.

malx
09/08/2017, 11:00 AM
Also everyone...

I've noticed since I removed my ZEO reactor my phosphates are crept up from .01 to .02 over the span of three months. I think that helped a lot.

Cheers,
Joey

malx
09/08/2017, 11:57 AM
i ran full zeovit religously for 6ish years here is my last zeo tank
http://s696.photobucket.com/user/thepubenator/media/IMG_8075_zpscfce55a3.jpg.html

and now i run a tank with nothing but a skimmer
http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv324/thepubenator/BC05A80F-B0F7-4B6A-B8E2-E47F8CEC67A7_zpsk2ejr1es.jpg (http://s696.photobucket.com/user/thepubenator/media/BC05A80F-B0F7-4B6A-B8E2-E47F8CEC67A7_zpsk2ejr1es.jpg.html)

What T5 unit is this?

rtparty
09/08/2017, 01:26 PM
What T5 unit is this?

Looks like a Giesemann unit to me

Ztrain
09/08/2017, 03:24 PM
Well if you read my thread I took the ZEO reactor off and added an Algae reactor in its place. I wasn't having luck with the reactor and once I took it off I saw an immediate benefit. Also, I stopped dosing all of the NO3 PO4 reducing elements and that seems to help. Not sure why the rollermat is under blast it's just a filter sock that I don't have to change.

Ahhh gotcha I took when you said you turned it up that it was already on there at the same time as the Zeo and added flow or intensity to the light or something.

malx
09/08/2017, 03:33 PM
Im not suggesting you stop Zeo. I think Zeo does have benefits in regards to using carbon dosing to both feed and keep nutrients "low", but the key is to NOT chase 0/0. Low nutrients is good....but IMHO ZERO detectable nutrients for most tanks is disaster. Unless you are feeding massive amounts, and you have such efficient nutrient export and bioload that you can maintain 0/0 (which 99% of tanks are not capable of), then you are better off with small amounts of nutrients. In my experience, I like to push my feeding/nutrients (mostly nitrate) to the point where i start getting small amounts of hair algae in the display, then back it off a bit. For me that tends to be Nitrate <5ppm or so. Po4 I tend to try to keep low as well, but not 0.

You know I've had this hair algae advice in the back of my head for the longest time and once I saw it started to grow in mine my corals started to look great.

nashorn
09/09/2017, 01:33 AM
Back to your original questions
Here are some pic of my tank
https://www.flickr.com/gp/[email protected]/K5663s

Volka dose
3part dosing
Kalk reactor fed from ATO
ATO uses tap water condition with prime ( tds 60-80)
I dont do water changes. I feel the water is more stable without them.
Did do at least two salinity water adjustments
Zovit reactor used with stones to grow the bacteria to feed the (Not really sure it work)
I have not change stones but do shake them twice a day
Lots of flow and lots of light for this size tank
No testing expect for the salinity(I didn't even do that for a while and lost a few nice arco as a result)
This has work so far for me