View Full Version : Help on stand design for new 240

07/29/2017, 05:33 PM
Hello, I have been following for years but this is my first time posting. My apologies in advance if I am posting in the wrong area.

I am starting a new build for 96x24x24 display tank. It will have a coast-2-coast overflow box (additional 5" of depth) on the back with a bean-animal drain system.

For various reasons, I want to build a stand that is bigger then the tank area, in this case 108x32 instead of the 96x24 tank. Ideally, I would highly prefer not to have vertical supports other then around the perimeter of the stand. The tank would sit against the front edge of the stand, centered left to right.

I have access to a highly skilled welder, but neither of us is comfortable with designing it structurally.

Would love any help that the forum can offer me in terms how you would do it!

Thank you

07/29/2017, 10:42 PM
These tanks require direct vertical support from the bottom of the tank, to the floor, (actually the earth, but that is getting complicated.) Floating a tank without vertical support is a risk. Steel is strong, however it will still deflect, and most steel stand designs assume that the steel is actually spaghetti noodles.

With any stand construction, it is always best to build direct support under the tank, and build out from there. I know it is not what you "want," but practically speaking, it is what you need.

Engineering strength, is quite different than welding skill... I believe you do recognize that. Load bearing strength is yet another dimension. This thread goes through the various ins and outs of steel stand building, and the answer to your question is not always going to be no, but it is wiser to build as mentioned above. In short, you don't want to have a tank hanging by welds alone....


07/30/2017, 10:31 AM
Fyi when done right welds are the strongest part anf you dont have to have a veryical support under, its just a simplier and easier for novices. In fact most of us even with these direct support (posts) are still transferring load, meaning very few have solid walls under the glass load points. All that said, the more you transfer the more we need to increase member sizes to resist those acceptable deflection, etc.. its the same concept as using a girder instead of a beam in building construction. Im dont have calcs or sizing for you but i know it can be done, so dont compromise your design if you dont want to. One last note, aside from the direct imposed loads, these members will want to twist from the moment (torsion) introduced moreso over these increased spans so additional cross bracing will likely be required. Gluck

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