Gap Between Tank Trim & Stand & Want Opinions (video included)

[JaySchulz]

So I've got my new tank on the stand and I'm trying to decide how much of an issue I have. I will offcourse shim the gaps in the center of the tank but my understanding of glass tanks is that all 4 corners need to be flush with the stand. I visually see an extremely small gap at all 4 corners (less than 1/64"). I did a test with a piece of paper and I'm curious to hear everyone's opinion. Thanks

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xOu3zOTp-yg&feature=youtu.be

[JaySchulz]

Bump

[crimsonblue]

Your wood may not be straight. :lmao:

Have you thought of trying a thin foam layer underneath?

[sfsuphysics]

If you do a foam pad, make sure its a very thin pad. You don't want any pressure at all on that bottom pane of glass.

[JaySchulz]

Haha yea it's probably not.

Yea I actually have a piece of foam for under the tank. The problem was that it was virtually impossible to place it under the tank given its weight (800lbs), extremely wide deminsions, and the pillars that are at the front of the tank. Since it is a trimmed tank, the foam was not 100% necessary so I opted against it. I know that I can close the gap in the middle of the two sides. I'm more concerned with the corners.

[JaySchulz]

If you do a foam pad, make sure its a very thin pad. You don't want any pressure at all on that bottom pane of glass.

Since it's a trimmed tank I probably won't unless it becomes strongly recommended on here.. I can easily close the gap at the center of the two sides. It's the corners I'm concerned about.

[dave.m]

I would take the tank off the stand and fix the stand, first. If you have this much trouble before you even start adding water you would just be masking the problems with shims or foam.

Over time the added stresses caused by an uneven floor or stand can take their toll on the glass. Can you really afford to lose the tank and all its inhabitants all over your floor in a catastrophic failure? Look at Peter's (nineball) tank that failed after a couple of years.

Dave.M

[JaySchulz]

I would take the tank off the stand and fix the stand, first. If you have this much trouble before you even start adding water you would just be masking the problems with shims or foam.

Over time the added stresses caused by an uneven floor or stand can take their toll on the glass. Can you really afford to lose the tank and all its inhabitants all over your floor in a catastrophic failure? Look at Peter's (nineball) tank that failed after a couple of years.

Dave.M

Not to sound ungrateful about your advice but its really not bad and I don't think that redoing the whole stand can improve what I have by much. The wood is naturally not straight and a few shims to correct that are not a problem. All corners are completely level. My biggest gap is 1/32" on a center span and I'm not worried about closing that gap.

MY BIG concern is the corners. In the video you see that all 4 corners are touching otherwise I would've been able to squeeze the paper to the corners. I think the tank trim is cambered out and that's why it appears to have a 1/64" gap. I'm reaching out to get opinions on that.

[McPuff]

I had a similar situation with my 300. I filled the tank to see what would happen... may be it would settle/flex the stand and get rid of the tiny gaps. It did not, so I used playing cards to shim the very small gaps. I really don't think I needed to but it is piece of mind.

[JaySchulz]

I had a similar situation with my 300. I filled the tank to see what would happen... may be it would settle/flex the stand and get rid of the tiny gaps. It did not, so I used playing cards to shim the very small gaps. I really don't think I needed to but it is piece of mind.

I was able to talk to the tank builder about it today and they said that all 4 corners seem to be flush and that the small 1/64" gap at the corners is due to the way they lay the tank in the trim. It creates a small camber situation. They off course said to shin he middle sections which I can easily do.