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TimmyD16
09/10/2017, 11:52 AM
Hi All!

So I'm in the process of planning out a system and I just couldn't really find an of the shelf LED fixture that I was in love with, so I'm deciding to build my own!

First I want to outline my design goals:

Full specturm
High CRI factor
Small footprint (pendent(ish) style)
Customizable
Ability to grow all coral


Next some justification for those goals, the first being full spectrum; I want the light to be as natural as possible, my goal for the tank as a whole will be to try and recreate nature as it exists in, well, nature. I want to carry this to the light as well, I'm just not a huge fan of the super atinic look of some royal blue heavy fixtures that some people really like and have good luck with, just not my thing. Next goal is a high CRI factor, I want to carry over that natural feel to me when observing the tank or taking pictures of the tank, and this means that I want all the colors to appear to their best ability. A small footprint, plain and simple just looks better in my opinion, and the tank is for me so my opinion matters A LOT. Wanting to have the fixture customizable is no brainer, I just want the ability to tune in the spectrum and look of the light. Ability to grow all coral is another no brainer, I want a reef tank and corals are part of a reef.

So now the specifics of the light, I will be actively cooling a 100mmx100mmx25mm pin heatsink, which gives me enough room to fit 16 20mm LED starboards, which I will be separating into 4 separately controlled channels. The channel outline and specifics are as follows:
Ch. 1 - Base White - 2 Cree XP-G3 Neutral White & 2 Cree XP-G3 Warm White
Ch. 2 - Base Royal Blue - 4 Cree XP-G3 Royal Blue
Ch. 3 - Aux Growth - 2 Cree XP-E2 Blue & 1 SemiLED True Violet &1 SemiLED Hyper Voilet
Ch. 4 - Color Fill - 1 Luxeon Rebel ES Lime & 1 Luxeon Rebel ES Cyan & 1 Cree XP-E Red & 1 SemiLED Ultra Violet UVA

So now to ask for some advice, with my design goals in mind how does that spectrum and LED mix look? I'm thinking of maybe replacing one of the XP-G3 Blues with another Violet? And assuming about 3W from each LED (I won't be driving the whites at a full 2A), is this enough light to fit over a 25gal Lagoon tank (footprint of 24"x17"x12") and grow all coral types? Or will I need two?

Thanks for the help everyone! looking forward to the advice and in the end building this thing!

TimmyD16
09/10/2017, 12:21 PM
Changing it up already.... opting for the Cree XT-E Royal Blue instead of the XP-G3... they look like better LEDs...

lingwendil
09/10/2017, 02:49 PM
CRI only really matters for your base whites, you are guaranteed to hate the look of true high CRI lighting over a Reef, a macro or planted tank may look ok...

As you have it now, that arrangement will give you a very warm 9000-1000k look... I would suggest another pair of royal blues personally, especially since you have the lime in the lineup.

If using neutral and warm whites as a base the reds aren't really needed, I've always ended up dimming them way down to off on neutral/warm based builds.

What would save some bucks, and give much improved color rendition, would be to go with a Bridgelux Vero 90 CRI white in the ~4000K range as your base, these will replace 2-4 Cree whites a piece, at only a few bucks each, while offering less wiring work to boot. The difference on these compared to the offerings from Cree are night and day-

Bridgelux VERO Decor 4000k 90CRI white BXRC-40G1000-B-23 (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bridgelux/BXRC-40G1000-B-23/976-1272-ND/)

Using these you can get away without supplementing a warm white, although if going this route it might be fun to leave a 660nm red in there for color tuning.

You can also try out the Neutral whites from Citizen, they are 97CRI and look amazing when paired with a handful of royal blues, I have a few and they are a very, very nice LED-

Citizen 4000k 90CRI Neutral white CLU028-1203C4-403H7K4 (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/citizen/CLU028-1203C4-403H7K4/1642-1476-ND/)

TimmyD16
09/10/2017, 03:03 PM
Double post, sorry

TimmyD16
09/10/2017, 05:49 PM
@lingwendil

Those whites look great! plus it would leave me some space to put in a couple more Royal Blue LEDs!

So would 6 Royal Blue be enough to match up with one of those white COBs you think?

oreo57
09/10/2017, 06:33 PM
Just to throw some "alternate" whites..
Luminus devices "Studio" 5600k 95 CRI- $13.85 each
and a new kid w/ a higher K value:
http://www.qualiteitems.com/images/ldspec.JPG


and a new kid w/ a higher K value:
"Fresh fish" 6500k

http://www.qualiteitems.com/images/fish.JPG

Fish LUXEON CoB 1208 3325 3694 118L/ W 900mA 15 L2C5-FS001208E1500

Just throwing these out there..

lingwendil
09/10/2017, 08:13 PM
^ hey!

You lurking over here too?

Yeah, I would love to try the "fresh fish" but only if adding some red or a warm white in conjunction, at least with a reef array...

lingwendil
09/10/2017, 08:20 PM
@lingwendil

Those whites look great! plus it would leave me some space to put in a couple more Royal Blue LEDs!

So would 6 Royal Blue be enough to match up with one of those white COBs you think?

Should be, most people dim the whites considerably, so that with two of the regular blues should be a good starting point, I prefer a 20k look myself, but this should get you a good 10-14k look, and adding the cyan and lime will help brighten things up too.

TimmyD16
09/10/2017, 08:36 PM
interesting @oreo57, those two look like good choices, I have been away for a bit and didn't realize all the new options for COB LEDs.

Though I don't know how I would feel using an LED that is designed for super markets that sell "fresh fish"... haha

lingwendil
09/10/2017, 10:17 PM
Yeah, the fresh fish looks like a decent cool white with cyan/regular blue already taken care of. It would be really interesting to pair it with some reds in a larger array.

The Citizen 97CRI 4000k is my current pet CoB, but I really like the 90CRI vero decor series, even the 5600k looks good, but I'm using that in a mix over a freshwater planted with a handful of other LEDs to great effect.

TimmyD16
09/10/2017, 11:19 PM
So would that fixture, with the white CoB LED and two additional Royal Blues, be enough to grow any type of coral in a 25gal Lagoon tank?

perkint
09/11/2017, 06:06 AM
Changing it up already.... opting for the Cree XT-E Royal Blue instead of the XP-G3... they look like better LEDs...
What makes you say that? Generally the XP-G3 is better than the XT-E. Cree haven't added the XP-G3 RB to their product comparison tool (last time I checked) and their own info isn't hugely explicit, but suggests:
XT-E up to 600mW at 85C
XP-G3 up to 680mW at 25C

Tim

lingwendil
09/11/2017, 08:54 AM
25 lagoon? What are the measurements and intended livestock? You would probably be good with SPS but it depends on the height.

What makes you say that? Generally the XP-G3 is better than the XT-E. Cree haven't added the XP-G3 RB to their product comparison tool (last time I checked) and their own info isn't hugely explicit, but suggests:
XT-E up to 600mW at 85C
XP-G3 up to 680mW at 25C

Tim

What are the numbers of the XP-G3 at 85C? Probably a more realistic comparison, but it should still be pretty close.

I'm a LumiLEDs guy when it comes to royal blue, personally, but the Crees have the advantage of taking more current, so I don't mind them when available.

Just as an experiment, my next array will be based on either a Vero 10 4000k 90CRI or the Citizen 4000K 97CRI, with two Cree regular blue, a Rebel Cyan, Rebel Lime, and a Luxeon K16 royal blue, with 2-3 violets. A couple of these clusters should easily be good for a pretty good rig over a 12x24 footprint or even over maybe 18x36 depending on what is meant to be kept. Four over a standard 55 gallon would probably be a great budget rig for most anything other than highly demanding SPS unless kept up high.

The Luxeon K8 or K16 is a great choice for royal blue, but it's no longer being produced... Still worth grabbing a few, you can get the K16 (which can dissipate 45w!) For $5 each on FleaBay and Aliexpress, and cheaper if you buy 5 or 10 at once.

Something like that might be good if you want a small footprint, less emitters, but it steps into the territory of advanced skullduggery, and may not sound as Gucci to all the snobs.

lingwendil
09/11/2017, 09:07 AM
Just noticed the dimensions, and yeah, you should be fine.

jayball
09/11/2017, 09:50 AM
The only suggestion I would make in addition to the above is if you free up room with the COB whites I would throw additional 420 NM in rather than royal blue. The additional violet will increase your florescent response without making your tank look like Windex.

bblumberg
09/11/2017, 11:38 AM
I would strongly recommend that you consider BlueAcro COB LEDs. I have his 20K Blue Pro pucks on my 150g (5x2x2) and really like them quite a bit. MUCH easier than individual LEDs which I had in my other 2 builds. But to be fair, I also have 4x80W T5 supplements which really complete the look when they are on. At the moment, I have 3 BlueAcroCOBs and the 4x 80W T5s. I have another 3 BlueAcro chips and 4x 4500K 90CRI neutral LumiLEDs neutral white COBs ready to add when I have time. The goal would is to reduce the amount of time I run the T5s while spreading the LEDs out more evenly rather than having 3 pools of light.

Be careful with the warm white and red LEDs in your build - those may grow more algae than you would like to have....

lingwendil
09/11/2017, 12:16 PM
I would strongly recommend that you consider BlueAcro COB LEDs. I have his 20K Blue Pro pucks on my 150g (5x2x2) and really like them quite a bit. MUCH easier than individual LEDs which I had in my other 2 builds. But to be fair, I also have 4x80W T5 supplements which really complete the look when they are on. At the moment, I have 3 BlueAcroCOBs and the 4x 80W T5s. I have another 3 BlueAcro chips and 4x 4500K 90CRI neutral LumiLEDs neutral white COBs ready to add when I have time. The goal would is to reduce the amount of time I run the T5s while spreading the LEDs out more evenly rather than having 3 pools of light.


Be careful with the warm white and red LEDs in your build - those may grow more algae than you would like to have....

Agreed on the warm whites and reds, but it depends on water parameters too. I personally like a good neutral white over most warm whites, and I'm not a huge fan of discrete reds at all except in very specific circumstances...


And, I can't believe I forgot about BlueAcro! I run a pair of the HalfMega (with custom emitter choices using the new beta series of his Luxeon C boards) and I am extremely pleased with them. The only thing I may do differently next time is step up to the larger boards for more channels and color mix. Two of them is absolutely perfect on my standard All-Glass-Aquarium 20 long.

Keep in mind this color choice was due to my love of the 20K radium look-

Custom arrangement on the Luxeon C boards-

3x royal blue, 1x semiLEDs violet, and 1x mint, 1x blue, 1x royal blue, 1x 90CRI 5700k white. Both channels driven equally looks just like a 20k Radium :thumbsup:

Installed on a heatsink from rapidLED, the multichip in the middle is just a moonlight.

Hard to get accurate pics, but this Blenny has patterns and color I haven't even seen before. These pics don't do it justice. My montipora also turned from a full brown and green to a pink and green. Very pleased!

https://preview.ibb.co/gGFU1k/IMG_20170808_201119.jpg (https://ibb.co/b0u07Q)
https://preview.ibb.co/h9e07Q/IMG_20170808_201109.jpg (https://ibb.co/fTLU1k)
https://preview.ibb.co/kJXWE5/IMG_20170808_182723.jpg (https://ibb.co/nzr2Mk)
https://preview.ibb.co/cDC91k/IMG_20170806_012957.jpg (https://ibb.co/bBTSnQ)
https://preview.ibb.co/iWbC45/IMG_20170805_123204.jpg (https://ibb.co/kf3s45)
https://preview.ibb.co/mKoGgk/IMG_20170805_123119.jpg (https://ibb.co/kmDhMk)
https://preview.ibb.co/euNbgk/IMG_20170730_175827.jpg (https://ibb.co/gUgrE5)
https://preview.ibb.co/c0AjZ5/IMG_20170730_174943.jpg (https://ibb.co/jThbgk)
https://preview.ibb.co/dSeYSQ/IMG_20170730_174917.jpg (https://ibb.co/c2nyu5)

If the OP isn't stuck on the idea of a pendant, one of the 6x20 premium enclosures from RapidLED would be a good choice for his tank, with a pair of the BlueAcro 48w boards, or three of the 24w may work, but for full blown SPS the 48w boards may be a better choice, and give more channels of control.

http://www.rapidled.com/premium-enclosures/

https://blueacro.com/acrostar/

TimmyD16
09/11/2017, 06:02 PM
Not sold on much of anything at this point, and those 48W Pro Blue boards do look pretty slick....

I might just have to pivot to two of those... It looks like it will be a bit more expensive, but if the light will be more versatile and future proof then I'll probably be all for it... I really like those RapidLED enclosures, but anyone know of a controllable fan that fits in that area? Something I can control with the Storm LED controller?

lingwendil
09/11/2017, 10:10 PM
The storm can control the fan with some additional circuitry, but that is one of the shortcomings of the setup from rapidLED, is that it's nearly impossible to find a 4-wire (PWM ready) in the same style. The MakersLED style heatsink will take any standard 92mm PC fan, but doesn't look as nice (I have one on my freshwater) as the units from rapid.

The coralux fan controller will control any common 2, 3, or 4 wire fans, and will work with the fan on the rapid heatsink-

http://coralux.net/?wpsc-product=fan-power-pwm-board

I think a pair of the 48w AcroStar boards would be a great choice, and he even sells adjustable dual-drivers that will bolt down to the heatsink as well. Just add a few jacks, wire, and a PSU and its a great way to build up a killer sleek light.

perkint
09/12/2017, 06:05 AM
What are the numbers of the XP-G3 at 85C? Probably a more realistic comparison, but it should still be pretty close.

[...]

Just as an experiment, my next array will be based on either a Vero 10 4000k 90CRI or the Citizen 4000K 97CRI
Figures for the XP-G3 at 85C would be better for comparison but they don't provide them and haven't added it to the PCT do you can't get them :( That was what I was thinking about when I put "they are not explicit" :(

Could get the XT-E RB at 25C now I think about it as that is in the PCT. Might have a dig later :)

Any reason you don't use the Vero 10 97 CRI? I have a few of them and they are a very good base for lights (IMO)...

Alternatively as said, the blueacro stuff is very good and makes life much easier :D

Tim

lingwendil
09/12/2017, 07:49 AM
Which part number and CCT Vero?

I've had a hell of a time trying to actually find a 4000k or higher 97CRI Vero actually for sale outside of the datasheet. That's why I grabbed the Citizen COB.

The LumiLEDs "crispwhite" and "fresh fish" are two I'd like to check out too.

perkint
09/12/2017, 11:45 AM
Which part number and CCT Vero?

I've had a hell of a time trying to actually find a 4000k or higher 97CRI Vero actually for sale outside of the datasheet. That's why I grabbed the Citizen COB.

The LumiLEDs "crispwhite" and "fresh fish" are two I'd like to check out too.
3000K. I should probably mention the ones I have are probably gen1 and I've had them from when the Vero 10s were new (ish)! :lmao:
BXRC-30H1000-B-03

Funny you say they are harder to find - the reason I went for the Vero's was they were by far the easiest to find in high CRI! But then, that was three years ago!

Digi-Key have stocks of the current 3000K high CRI one: BXRC-30H1000-B-23. No higher temp ones in the same CRI which I think you've said you'd prefer (if I remember right)...

Tim

perkint
09/12/2017, 12:00 PM
Could get the XT-E RB at 25C now I think about it as that is in the PCT. Might have a dig later :)
So the top bin XT-E would put out about 650mW at 25C. Compared with the XP-G3 at 680mW.

Doesn't look much, but then take in to account the XP-G3 is also running on less power (again not massive - XT-E takes about 7% more power) and significantly improved thermal resistance (2C/W compared with 5C/W).

So more light, less power and more easily cooled, never mind can be driven much harder if you wish - and doesn't carry much of a premium :)

But then if you want the option of more light from fewer units (so less wiring) neither will compete with the Luxeons! :lmao:

Tim

lingwendil
09/12/2017, 02:17 PM
Hard to compete with the Luxeon offerings, but still pretty good!

perkint
09/12/2017, 03:00 PM
Tried to find the performance data for the Luxeons the other day, but as they don't seem to list it on their site, I failed :( Doesn't help that I didn't/don't know which is the best performer (in light output per watt terms)...

Tim

TimmyD16
09/12/2017, 11:24 PM
Any newer LED boards out there similar to the Luxeon K16? I like that setup but not too sure about buying randoms off of flea-bay...

lingwendil
09/12/2017, 11:51 PM
Sort of... Citizen makes one that is similar, but I can only find it at RapidLED (and their sister sites) that should prove pretty good-

http://www.rapidled.com/citizen-royal-blue-cob-clu048-1212cf-b455/

At four times the price (nearly) I haven't been in a hurry to grab any, especially considering that outside of rapid/menari or COBkits I can't find any sources in the US that stock them. If the quality is like the other chips from Citizen they should be a great choice though.

oreo57
09/13/2017, 11:16 AM
www.lumileds.com/uploads/600/DS162-pdf


Listed replacement series for k16 but don't see any Royal Blue..

perkint
09/13/2017, 11:44 AM
Royal blue (and colours) is just not where the main development interest is at the mo :(

Tim

lingwendil
09/13/2017, 02:10 PM
Unfortunately. I've got a couple K16 on the way to play with. The Citizen Royal blue is supposed to be a current production part, but it's hard to find for some reason outside of the sources listed earlier. I might shoot them a line asking for stocking distributors.

perkint
09/13/2017, 04:49 PM
I was surprised when Cree did the XP-G3 royal blue, but you can tell it was only because they could, not that they wanted to (poor level of info in the datasheet and not on the PCT)...

Tim

TimmyD16
09/13/2017, 09:46 PM
For sure, it seems like colors are more of an after-thought currently...

lingwendil
09/13/2017, 11:26 PM
Yup. The last couple years it seems that high CRI or specialty whites (geared towards specific products and displays) have been the big push, and finding ways to increase efficiency and thermal performance. Remote phosphor stuff is slowly scooting along as well.

lingwendil
09/14/2017, 12:40 PM
Tried to find the performance data for the Luxeons the other day, but as they don't seem to list it on their site, I failed :( Doesn't help that I didn't/don't know which is the best performer (in light output per watt terms)...

Tim

Luxeon Rebel color line Datasheet-

https://www.lumileds.com/uploads/265/DS68-pdf

Quote from StevesLEDs-

- Radiometric Output - 1,300mw @ 700ma and 1,755mw @ 1000ma! (Datasheet, Figure 12)




Some sort-of-on-topic opinions, since we are on the topic of cluster-based builds still...

Personally, I love the Luxeon Royal blues, and no longer use Cree for royal blue at all, due to the rather nontrivial difference in efficiency/output. I like the Colors that cree do (the regular blue 475nm from them is more "blue" and less cyan looking than the usual available blue bins from places like steves) but with some work you can get similar offerings as far as desired color bins if you ask around. Steves will do an alternative blue bin that specs around 475-480nm (bin 4) versus the listed 470-480nm (H4E?), but it doesn't help much, so for regular blues I like Cree, but I like the Luxeon Cyans a little better at the usual 495nm-500nm, versus the Cree cyan ("turquoise")at 495 having a sharper peak and less spread... Cyan and Blue will help level out the pink/purple tone that LED setups get when based on royal blue and neutral/warm white (or cool white with added red) alone. They also help with coloration, fluorescence, and photosynthesis. If you look at the graphs for most white LEDs you will see a big dip right in the area that blue/cyan cover, so It's a good idea to fill it in.

Deep red can be useful for some, and many will buy into the (IMHO) myth that they promote algae growth (I haven't experienced it, but many claim they do) but I believe they aren't necessary for growth of corals unless your base white is lacking in this area to begin with, IE when your whites are 6500K or any other Cool White nonsense from some random seller (like the 10,000-20,000k whites sold as bridgelux/epistar or in the cheap chinese multichips on fleabay) or generic stuff. Use a good neutral white (or certain warm whites) with high CRI and you will usually be covered pretty well in this area, and get much better color to go with it. I would however add that reds can be useful for tuning color, and any well-rounded fixture that can fit another channel for controlling them should at least entertain the idea of adding them at least in very small numbers. On larger fixtures they blend easier, on smaller fixtures they are harder to mix well.

Far red I put in the same category as deep red. While useful, pick a good base white and the same reasoning applies. Could easily add it to the same channel as deep red and use it for tuning.

Lime is an awesome addition to most any fixture, especially blue heavy ones. in conjunction with regular blue and cyan, it will completely counteract that pink/purple undertone some setups get from a base of neutral/warm white with a bunch of royal blues. It is also a great way to increase visual brightness of the fixture without affecting the perceived color temperature/tone of the light, while also having a minimal impact on PAR. Particularly useful on tanks that need a crisp white look when already blue heavy.

And as earlier, I think a high CRI neutral or warm white (my preference is to a 4000k neutral) is what your setup should be based on. Cree an LumiLEDs both offer decent high CRI options, with LumiLEDs leading Cree in this regard, but there are better options at better price points in the stuff from Citizen, Bridgelux, and Luminus Devices for our uses.



All that having been said, next fixture I'm putting together (for a budget "display" frag setup dual PAR cannon!) will be (tentatively)

Two clusters each of-

Citizen 4000k 97CRI CLU028 (running at 300mA, for about 10w) (I may do a 90CRI 4000k Vero on the other side, just for experimenting, or possibly a 3000k white)
Luxeon K16 Royal blue array (running at 500mA-1000mA depending on how it all does)
Luxeon Rebel Lime
Luxeon Rebel Cyan
Cree Blue x2 (maybe 3)
SemiLEDs Violet U70 x2
SemiLEDs Violet U60 (may replace all SemiLEDs violets with a single Luxeon "UV" 420-430nm, or a single 3-up from StevesLEDs)

Should work great on a 20 Long or similarly shaped tank! Probably even enough for LPS and some less demanding to moderate SPS in something like a 30 Breeder or 40 Breeder if I crank those K16s up to 1 amp!

perkint
09/14/2017, 02:15 PM
Luxeon Rebel color line Datasheet-

https://www.lumileds.com/uploads/265/DS68-pdf

Quote from StevesLEDs-

- Radiometric Output - 1,300mw @ 700ma and 1,755mw @ 1000ma! (Datasheet, Figure 12)

Thanks for that :)

The datasheet suggests the highest output royal blue is 1100mW at 700mA (slightly less than an XT-E (1178mW) although the Cree chip would be slightly higher fV (3.2V vs about 2.95V) so slightly more power). Wish Cree would put the XP-G3 into the PCT!

Tim

lingwendil
09/14/2017, 03:11 PM
Looking from the graphs the Luxeon Royal Blue sits about 1350mW output or so at 1A (assuming proper/adequate cooling) with a 3.00V drop, and I like them around 700-1000mA assuming your heatsink can take it. The lower voltage drop is worth it for a bit better efficiency.

Also, In my experience the Luxeon can take higher temperatures before output suffers, but they are less tolerant of overdriving them the way the Crees are, which is a non issue usually if you design your rig right.

TimmyD16
09/15/2017, 12:07 AM
Some sort-of-on-topic opinions, since we are on the topic of cluster-based builds still...

Some AMAZING information lingwendil! Thank you for offering you knowledge and experience!

perkint
09/15/2017, 05:42 AM
Also, In my experience the Luxeon can take higher temperatures before output suffers, but they are less tolerant of overdriving them the way the Crees are, which is a non issue usually if you design your rig right.
I did notice the drop off from temp was quite flat. The thermal efficiency of them is nowhere near as good as the Crees but then it doesn't need to be when it has less effect!

As you say, overdriving (by accident) shouldn't really happen :)

Tim

lingwendil
09/15/2017, 08:46 AM
Some AMAZING information lingwendil! Thank you for offering you knowledge and experience!

No problem. I've been building my own rigs since before there were any commercial offerings, and have worked with testing and repairing units for years. I keep getting told to write up a guide, but the industry is always changing so I just lay down some info now and then, and I'm always learning new things too. I may be opinionated, but I think I have a good knowledge base to form my reasoning, and have had a ton of experience finding what does and doesn't work. Recently I took up the freshwater side of lighting, and its just as fun.

Oh, adding to the above... run violets. Often erroneously referred to as UV (even the manufacturers do it, but whatever) you want 400-430nm on these, with the common and most useful being in the 415-420nm range. The most common and probably easiest to source is the popular "hyper violet" from LED g r o u p b u y, or the ones from Steve's LEDs. The 415-420nm SemiLEDs U70 bin is the most common, and works great in 95% of builds, although you see 400-410nm U50 bins, they have less output. Run one per each white is a good starting point for larger arrays, especially considering that you run less white than other colors. Also, some people really load up the violets, and while it works, I personally wouldn't get to crazy as it can really blast your tank with PAR, so for clams and SPS I would, but not for a moderately lit setup. Like my example for my next build posted earlier, I think 2-3 per array would be plenty, but if doing SPS dominant I would probably go 4-5. I've never noticed a huge difference in running a whole pile of them, but have noticed a difference when adding them to an existing array in low numbers.

perkint
09/15/2017, 02:47 PM
Good advice :)

Tim

lingwendil
09/29/2017, 12:23 PM
Slightly excited so I'm reviving this to show some testing-

Citizen CLU028 97CRI 4000k Neutral White (11.4 watts at 38volts, 300mA)

Luxeon Lime

Luxeon K16 Royal Blue (easy to find all over FleaBay, AliExpress, and similar sites, these are the real deal, just surplus) (for Toshiba remote phosphor fixture) these can do 45 watts of dissipation, for 23,000+mw of radiance!

Lashed up really quick on a RapidLED Premium Heatsink, white/lime driven in series at 300mA, royal blue at 700mA.

https://preview.ibb.co/hmRLab/IMG_20170927_191007.jpg (https://ibb.co/bV5rgG)
https://preview.ibb.co/h2ocMG/IMG_20170927_190948.jpg (https://ibb.co/kV8cMG)

These suckers are very, very powerful, and the colors are fantastic. It has a very subtle hint of that pink/magenta look that will be easy to counteract with the other colors I will be adding to the array. The overall look is pretty close to a 12,000k halide, and much less pink than the picture shows-

https://preview.ibb.co/kvxU1G/IMG_20170927_190741.jpg (https://ibb.co/mSY2MG)

Pardon my potato quality picture, it ended up very dark for some reason, and the color isn't true at all...


The plan is so far to add 2x violet, 4x cool/regular blue, 1 or 2x cyan, and build two total clusters, and it will end up over a 40breeder or similar size setup for a "display" frag setup. Even as a standalone setup it looks phenomenally better than the basic cool white/royal blue combo, and would do very well as an array on its own for a warmer desired look. This also blows away the "dream chip" types of multichips in cost and efficiency, as well as having nicer color, even unsupplemented.

The best part? Those K16 arrays are only $5 each shipped, and the Citizen whites are less than $8, although you could do similar quality with less CRI if you went with a Bridgelux Vero for $3.75 each, and end up with a very economical base set to build on with your other colors.

Fredfish
09/29/2017, 07:25 PM
Slightly excited so I'm reviving this to show some testing-

Citizen CLU028 97CRI 4000k Neutral White (11.4 watts at 38volts, 300mA)

Luxeon Lime

Luxeon K16 Royal Blue...


...The plan is so far to add 2x violet, 4x cool/regular blue, 1 or 2x cyan, and build two total clusters, and it will end up over a 40breeder or similar size setup for a "display" frag setup. Even as a standalone setup it looks phenomenally better than the basic cool white/royal blue combo, and would do very well as an array on its own for a warmer desired look. This also blows away the "dream chip" types of multichips in cost and efficiency, as well as having nicer color, even unsupplemented.

The best part? Those K16 arrays are only $5 each shipped, and the Citizen whites are less than $8, although you could do similar quality with less CRI if you went with a Bridgelux Vero for $3.75 each, and end up with a very economical base set to build on with your other colors.
How is the blending on this smorgasbord when its all together?

I always thought this would make a super inexpensive build for really big tanks where you want to push out lots of light per LED grouping.

lingwendil
09/29/2017, 09:56 PM
How is the blending on this smorgasbord when its all together?

I always thought this would make a super inexpensive build for really big tanks where you want to push out lots of light per LED grouping.

Well, 6" above the waterline, and over my 12" tall 20 long it blends well. Once the other colors are added I can comment further, but I may end up using a diffusion panel of some sort so I don't have to hang the light so high.