Using macro Algea during cycle to combat nitrates

[mb167204]

I’m I right in the following thought process.

My tank was set up 1 week ago. 34 gallon. Filled with BRS RO/DI water.

Used 20lbs live sand and about 3 lbs live rock. Rest of rock is all dry rock from my previous set up tank that had been out of water for 5 years.

Initial testing. All three parameters 0.

Used shrimp method.

Three days after ammonia 8. Nitrites 0. Nitrates 0

I’ve been testing daily over the week and have watched ammonia slowly drop, nitrites spike and nitrates spiking about a day behind the nitrites

Today’s readings.
Ammonia 2
Nitrites 5
Nitrates 160
pH. 8

My Tunze 9002 skimmer has been pulling junk all week.


Questions:

1. When do I do my first water change? When nitrites are completely 0 or now to get my nitrates under control.

2. If I don’t do a water change would adding some macro algea to the display tank( no sump) be a bad idea to export some of the end product nitrates.

3. Run some chemi- pure blue or GFO?

Just to be clear I’m in no real hurry to add any livestock and want to do what’s best for the long term health of the tank.

Thanks.

[Rtdrumz]

Let it cycle. I set up an extra 35gal 3-4 months ago and just let it ride. No water changes at all.. just vodka... params are zero across the board. On the other hand you could make a little $ back on chaeto.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[mb167204]

Thanks

[mcgyvr]

1)I personally would recommend you start your water changes now because your nitrate is so high.. I would start with a big 50% one
You left the shrimp in way too long and your ammonia level got too high and now you are going to need to work harder to remove all that from the water...
I don't recommend ammonia levels over 2ppm during cycling..

If you really aren't in a hurry and just plan on doing a fish only for now or for a while then you can just let it ride and see how it goes.. I personally wouldn't..

2)You can certainly add macro algae to the tank now to help.. It can be added at any stage of a cycle.

3)No.. You haven't indicated that you have a phosphate problem so GFO/CP blue are for those with a phosphate problem usually due to overfeeding..

[afroshacks]

Not trying to high jack the thread but it's been a while since I've been on. Just got back into the hobby after a few years with no tank.
Similar to the topic, is it possible to cycle a tank with chaeto in my sump and finish my cycle with 0 nitrates? Story behind this is I did the shrimp method. Left the shrimp in for about 5 days then removed them and started adding Stability for about a week. Once I started seeing nitrites I added chaeto to the sump, protein skimmer has ran from day 1, and I am seeing some diatom throughout the tank right now and for the first time skimmer is pulling some skim in its cup. Thought I knew a few things but honestly have never seen this before so I'm curious if anyone else has?

[afroshacks]

Not trying to high jack the thread but it's been a while since I've been on. Just got back into the hobby after a few years with no tank.
Similar to the topic, is it possible to cycle a tank with chaeto in my sump and finish my cycle with 0 nitrates? Story behind this is I did the shrimp method. Left the shrimp in for about 5 days then removed them and started adding Stability for about a week. Once I started seeing nitrites I added chaeto to the sump, protein skimmer has ran from day 1, and I am seeing some diatom throughout the tank right now and for the first time skimmer is pulling some skim in its cup. Thought I knew a few things but honestly have never seen this before so I'm curious if anyone else has?Adding on the tank has been cycling for 5 weeks now. Ammonia 0, Nitrites 0.25 today from 0.5 yesterday and over 5 the day before. At one point during I tested for nitrates and they were in the 40ppm range. I stopped testing for nitrates until today when I was sure nitrites were coming down.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

[mcgyvr]

afroshacks,
In general it usually takes longer for the bacteria that processes nitrates into nitrogen gas to get established so most tanks will have elevated nitrate levels post cycle.
The bacteria that processes ammonia/nitrites get established rather quickly.

Now macroalgaes will consume nitrates but its usually not that fast acting.. Its certainly possible though..

[afroshacks]

afroshacks,
In general it usually takes longer for the bacteria that processes nitrates into nitrogen gas to get established so most tanks will have elevated nitrate levels post cycle.
The bacteria that processes ammonia/nitrites get established rather quickly.

Now macroalgaes will consume nitrates but its usually not that fast acting.. Its certainly possible though..Thanks Mcgyvr. Like I said, I've been doing this for 20+ years and have never seen it. I think this is the first time I added macro algae during cycling tho so I want to be sure. I'm going to try and get a sample of my water to my LFS today and have them test it for me for a second opinion.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

[monkeysee1]

No.. You haven't indicated that you have a phosphate problem so GFO/CP blue are for those with a phosphate problem usually due to overfeeding..

Quick question, mcgyvr-
you wouldn't recommend to him using some of this, or perhaps some Rowa Phos, to head off an algae/diatom/bubble algae problem at the pass? Why not?

No water changes at all.. just vodka..

If you're not really careful with the stuff though, you'll get a cyano bloom like you read about. Just saying.

[mcgyvr]

Quick question, mcgyvr-
you wouldn't recommend to him using some of this, or perhaps some Rowa Phos, to head off an algae/diatom/bubble algae problem at the pass? Why not?


IMO..
Absolutely not..

GFO should ONLY be used to treat a real phosphate problem caused by one of the following.
#1-Pukani rock.. (its known to have phosphate problems).. but I would recommend you treat that in an initial rock curing process outside of your display tank before you start the tank and would likely want to use Lanthanum Chloride instead as its cheaper in the long rin..

#2-Blatant or unknown overfeeding..

Personally I feel that if you are using GFO in a display tank you really don't know what you are doing or screwed up somehow (flame suit on :strooper:)

[monkeysee1]

Okay thanks!
Probably best to use the least drastic methods first, like water changes to bring the high ammonia and nitrite levels he's experiencing, and NOT to add any GFO or other media chemicals unless he absolutely has to. Makes sense.